Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

greatketch@...
 

As Bill R points out, varying chain standards are very frequently a source of trouble.

The best advice I received was is to always take the gypsy along with you when buying chain, and make SURE that the new chain lies perfectly in the wheel.  Not close... perfect.  

Do not trust the vendor, or the markings.  Test the fit.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Thank you Bill

You are a great resource as always. If I ever meet you I will buy you some beers ;-)
I was close on same track but I had no evidence about the Problem. I'm not happy to buy new gypsy's but I'm happy to know the source of the Problem now.

Found the Details also in the Lewmar manual in pdf on Page35:


Thanks  and cheers
Ruedi


On 17 Aug 2018, at 20:05, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Rueidi,

I believe that I have bad news for you.

The "ISO standard" 10mm chain has a "pitch" of 30mm and the "DIN standard" 10mm chain has a pitch of 28mm.

Pitch is the distance inside the chain loop on the long side. I privately emailed you a page from my Amel Book which explains this.

Here is the bad news:
The Lewmar V5 with 203 Gypsy is "ISO standard" for 10mm chain and is designed for a "pitch" of 30mm. Amel always installs ISO Standard chain.
The Stainless Steel chain on your boat is "DIN standard" with a pitch of 28mm.
This will cause multiple problems including the one you described.

You need new gypsies for DIN standard 10mm chain.

The error the previous owner made is a common mistake, and it is never, ever checked by surveyors. My guess is that this email to you will ne "news" to many Amel owners. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 11:25 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill

Yes, I have the WASI Power ball swivel installed. 

Here the measurements, the long inside of a link is something between 27.8 mm and 28mm. Hard to measure, but I think it’s 28mm.

The Gypsy is marked 203. 
This is what AMEL originally delivered I think (Lewmar V5 with 203 Gypsy), isn’t it?

Thanks for your great support. 
Best 
Ruedi 

WASABI A-54#55


Von: <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of "Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Antworten an: <amelyachtowners@...>
Datum: Freitag, 17. August 2018 um 15:46
An: <amelyachtowners@...>
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

 

Ruedi,

Your Amel should have a Wasi Power Ball swivel at the connection between the chain and anchor. Does it?

Also, 10mm chain and gypsies come in 2 different sized links, called pitch. Carefully measure the long inside dimension of several links. Then inspect the gypsy for all markings. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018, 06:01 Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 


Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Dean Gillies
 

Thomas, do you have a suggestion on where to get a workshop manual?
I’ve had no luck with Volvo, or the ‘manuals-online’ sites.
Cheers
Dean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

Thanks Thomas 

I really hope so. I hope you’re right and think you probably are. However i am a skeptical believer. In nearly everything. 

Thank you for the hack on the codes! I will try it for certain. 
I appreciate your help as always. 
My best to you guys

Porter
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 17, 2018, at 10:21 AM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Porter,

If I remember correctly what I was told, you can get the fault codes by holding the rotokey button down for five seconds until it beeps. Then choose the default in the list and press the button again to see the code. Those codes then can then be looked up the workshop manual. 

I haven’t had the misfortune of checking that methodology, so it might be bogus, but hopefully it helps. 

Also, I would be very very surprised if you got charged by Volvo Martinique for a long block you didn’t get. They enjoy a stellar reputation as the best Volvo workshop in the Caribbean/ South America (ok, maybe the competition isn’t hard) and I can’t imagine they would compromise that for 16k euros.

Hope things will be ok

Best

Thomas
away from 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curacao 

On Fri, 17 Aug 2018 at 16:41, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Danny . Good to know. 


Teun was very helpful. He’s down on this model of D3 and got a new/different one. Smart man. The warranty for us only covers a new long block. Which seems realistic. I also have tones of spares for this engine. Etc. Getting CDM to understand an electrically isolated engine Pyle prove incredibly difficult. 
Surprisingly Panama might as well be Somalia in terms of good reliable Volvo work. Rest of the country splendid. 

Some have expressed suspicion that the long block was never actually changed. It’s mine too. Today I’m going to do some forensics. 

We work so hard to make sure everything is perfect. It’s frustrating to have rely on a system that seems so error prone, and over which we have so little control. 

One of the things I really need to learn is how to get the fault codes out of the helm display. 

Had I that, at the beginning, we’d be so much further along in this process. We’re 2.5 months here in Panama with the engine. 

But as my Guru says, “slow down enjoy the trip”. Bill R and Marcus Aurelius to the rescue. 

I’d love a mechanical engine. 

Thanks for all the comments from everyone 

Porter
A54-152. Ibis. 
Vista Mar Marina, Panama

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 15, 2018, at 1:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,

Like everyone I feel for you. Some thoughts. Unless something like salt water ingress  happens and oil and filters are changed regularly diesel engines, mechanically are good for very high hours, 4000 ordinary, 8000, not unusual. You had all the mechanical parts renewed with the long block. I guess not all the wiring looms (which are considerable) nor the operational computer systems. That's where I would be looking. Teun Bass in Noumea has a similar story to tell and he may have something to offer.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 16 August 2018 at 01:50 "Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter, I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine. It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs… does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu pole setup

 

Ian,

Good Stuff...and add this:
If you bring the pole in, hook it on the inside of the rail and use a loop of the red line (aft guy) to tie it to the rail without uncleating either end.

Also, you should permanently use some small line "whipped" around the lifle rail where the pole touches.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 12:32 PM Ian parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Great explanation. First advice I got, and which we still do, is to leave the pole end just below the rail height. Also cushion the rail either with a fender (bumper) or cockpit cushion. Just occasionally the pole push may not take the pole out far enough to haul in on the blue line (especially if the boat rolls the wrong way at the wrong time). Then it swings back inboard with some force. Trying to catch it can be hazardous.
Same applies when bringing the pole back in when you’re done.
We don’t have much problem now with several ‘launch and retrieval’s’ behind us, but still do everything at rail level.
Would recommend keeping the big pole at a ‘safe’ height for the first few launches, then decide for yourselves. For us, Linda (not very big) launches and catches while I do the hauling and inward control.
P.S.
I find when the pole is due to come back in I can stand by the universal joint and put one hand on the inward end of the long pole to slow it down long before the outward end gets within range of the retriever’s reach..
Hope this all makes sense!
Good luck - it’s an amazing system!

Ian and Linda
Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

 

Rueidi,

I believe that I have bad news for you.

The "ISO standard" 10mm chain has a "pitch" of 30mm and the "DIN standard" 10mm chain has a pitch of 28mm.

Pitch is the distance inside the chain loop on the long side. I privately emailed you a page from my Amel Book which explains this.

Here is the bad news:
The Lewmar V5 with 203 Gypsy is "ISO standard" for 10mm chain and is designed for a "pitch" of 30mm. Amel always installs ISO Standard chain.
The Stainless Steel chain on your boat is "DIN standard" with a pitch of 28mm.
This will cause multiple problems including the one you described.

You need new gypsies for DIN standard 10mm chain.

The error the previous owner made is a common mistake, and it is never, ever checked by surveyors. My guess is that this email to you will ne "news" to many Amel owners. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 11:25 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill

Yes, I have the WASI Power ball swivel installed. 

Here the measurements, the long inside of a link is something between 27.8 mm and 28mm. Hard to measure, but I think it’s 28mm.

The Gypsy is marked 203. 
This is what AMEL originally delivered I think (Lewmar V5 with 203 Gypsy), isn’t it?

Thanks for your great support. 
Best 
Ruedi 

WASABI A-54#55


Von: <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of "Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Antworten an: <amelyachtowners@...>
Datum: Freitag, 17. August 2018 um 15:46
An: <amelyachtowners@...>
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

 

Ruedi,

Your Amel should have a Wasi Power Ball swivel at the connection between the chain and anchor. Does it?

Also, 10mm chain and gypsies come in 2 different sized links, called pitch. Carefully measure the long inside dimension of several links. Then inspect the gypsy for all markings. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018, 06:01 Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Bill

Yes, I have the WASI Power ball swivel installed. 

Here the measurements, the long inside of a link is something between 27.8 mm and 28mm. Hard to measure, but I think it’s 28mm.

The Gypsy is marked 203. 
This is what AMEL originally delivered I think (Lewmar V5 with 203 Gypsy), isn’t it?

Thanks for your great support. 
Best 
Ruedi 

WASABI A-54#55


Von: <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of "Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Antworten an: <amelyachtowners@...>
Datum: Freitag, 17. August 2018 um 15:46
An: <amelyachtowners@...>
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

 

Ruedi,

Your Amel should have a Wasi Power Ball swivel at the connection between the chain and anchor. Does it?

Also, 10mm chain and gypsies come in 2 different sized links, called pitch. Carefully measure the long inside dimension of several links. Then inspect the gypsy for all markings. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018, 06:01 Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
 

Porter,

I am not on the boat now to test it out, but here's a method to try to get your error codes, as shown by Volvo Penta Americas:


This is with the EVC-C panel, so I am not sure it will work with our setup. I have some error codes too and will test out next time I'm on the boat. Of course you'll need the shop manual to decode it.

Good luck.

-Scott
A54 
SV Tengah


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Ruedi,


I have heard it said that the twisting of an anchor chain is sometimes a feature of a vertical windlass , now more widely fitted on all  yachts ,as opposed to the horizontal windlass such as the Lofrans  found on the SM and  earlier Amels. The vertical windlass involves two directional changes in the chain before it reaches the locker, the horizontal windlass only one. I only have experience of the earlier type so I have no personal experience to know if this is true.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] Sent: 17 August 2018 11:01:09
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times
 


Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Sv Garulfo
 

Porter,

If I remember correctly what I was told, you can get the fault codes by holding the rotokey button down for five seconds until it beeps. Then choose the default in the list and press the button again to see the code. Those codes then can then be looked up the workshop manual. 

I haven’t had the misfortune of checking that methodology, so it might be bogus, but hopefully it helps. 

Also, I would be very very surprised if you got charged by Volvo Martinique for a long block you didn’t get. They enjoy a stellar reputation as the best Volvo workshop in the Caribbean/ South America (ok, maybe the competition isn’t hard) and I can’t imagine they would compromise that for 16k euros.

Hope things will be ok

Best

Thomas
away from 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curacao 

On Fri, 17 Aug 2018 at 16:41, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Danny . Good to know. 


Teun was very helpful. He’s down on this model of D3 and got a new/different one. Smart man. The warranty for us only covers a new long block. Which seems realistic. I also have tones of spares for this engine. Etc. Getting CDM to understand an electrically isolated engine Pyle prove incredibly difficult. 
Surprisingly Panama might as well be Somalia in terms of good reliable Volvo work. Rest of the country splendid. 

Some have expressed suspicion that the long block was never actually changed. It’s mine too. Today I’m going to do some forensics. 

We work so hard to make sure everything is perfect. It’s frustrating to have rely on a system that seems so error prone, and over which we have so little control. 

One of the things I really need to learn is how to get the fault codes out of the helm display. 

Had I that, at the beginning, we’d be so much further along in this process. We’re 2.5 months here in Panama with the engine. 

But as my Guru says, “slow down enjoy the trip”. Bill R and Marcus Aurelius to the rescue. 

I’d love a mechanical engine. 

Thanks for all the comments from everyone 

Porter
A54-152. Ibis. 
Vista Mar Marina, Panama

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 15, 2018, at 1:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,

Like everyone I feel for you. Some thoughts. Unless something like salt water ingress  happens and oil and filters are changed regularly diesel engines, mechanically are good for very high hours, 4000 ordinary, 8000, not unusual. You had all the mechanical parts renewed with the long block. I guess not all the wiring looms (which are considerable) nor the operational computer systems. That's where I would be looking. Teun Bass in Noumea has a similar story to tell and he may have something to offer.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 16 August 2018 at 01:50 "Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter, I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine. It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs… does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

Thanks Alan 
Great points. The elbow is very clean. But I have not looked beyond it. I will when we remove the engine. 
Thank you!  
Porter. 
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 16, 2018, at 2:11 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Black smoke is caused by unburnt carbon....oil burning is blue smoke.

Unburnt carbon usually indicates there is a blockage somewhere
Airfilter..you checked that
Injectors..you've done that.
Another thing could be too high back pressure in the exhaust.
Has the exhaust system been taken apart and checked to be sure it is relatively clean and free flowing?
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Maskelyne Islands, Vanuatu


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

Dana. 
Smartest man of the group so far in my opinion. 
I will be very interested to hear how things go for you. I’d give a lot to have such a motor. Seems criminal to marry a finicky computer to a life saving device such as a Diesel engine on a sailboat. 

I will definitely get the timing belt changed with the long block exchange. 

Should be very easy to do at the time yes?
I have an extra here, ready. 

Could anyone suggest a list of new things to make sure are fixed exchanged when they do the switch out?  

I could see this crew keeping The same oil filter, and serpentine belt for example. 

Our boats are pretty fast. I think 85 should be plenty.  Will you change the prop? To match the lower horsepower?  

Many thanks again and best of luck. 

Please keep us updated with this new foray!  

Porter 
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 16, 2018, at 7:51 AM, danderson10@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,


I purchased Amel 54 #003 last September. On the delivery from Virginia to Maine the D3-110 died.  We were chugging along for 12 hours or so and then 'screech', stop. There was no coughing, sputtering, smoke or anything else. No error messages...dead. 

The next sign of trouble was when the yard suspected the timing belt slipped. They didn't really have much enthusiasm to work on it as they were totally unfamiliar with the D3. 

After a lot of research I have decided to replace the D3 with a Beta 85, which is an industrial Kubota engine that has been marinized. There is no high pressure common rail, no ECU, no sensors, no computer required for troubleshooting and no timing belt. This is the largest 'old school' engine I could get from Beta that would be legal. In other words, they have to bring the power down to be able to meet emission standards (US). Nanni has a 115 that is old school that they would be happy to sell me but for various reasons I went with the Beta. 

I am not suggesting you need to repower, I was in a unique position to make the decision in my home port and have a couple of years until I start cruising. Also, I'll mention that the previous owner had just finished a circumnavigation. It looked like the engine room had been thoroughly sprayed with salt water and never cleaned up. In addition to oil and coolant leaks, everything was covered with rust and corrosion. I ripped everything out including the engine, generator, water maker, lots of wiring, hot water heater, etc. Thus began a major refit which is still in progress.

PS: Don't forget to change your timing belt at the suggested intervals. I think its every 600 hours. Mine was way overdue.  Also interesting to note that this was the second D3 installed in this boat.

Best,
Dana Anderson
Amel 54 #003  'Pathfinder'






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

Thank you Dean. 

Re the smoke:

Black sooty smoke with a small about of coke in the water. 
Only when rapidly throttling up. And only for a split second. Typical scenario. Backing into a slip, then gunning in forward to rapidly decrease the reverse motion to avoid dock contact. 
Maybe when I first start up, a tiny amount.  
Never while running, idling, and if I change speeds gradually never. Only a rapid change as in turbo lag. 
With a non common Rail I’d never even notice it. 
The comment by Nigel Calder to me “you should never see smoke on a common rail” stuck. I later clarified with him and he stuck to his statement of gospel. “Never.”

So...  also I would never notice it but when backing up I’m facing aft. Leg and back against the wheel to prevent rudder deviation. Hand on the throttle and bow stick. Heading out, conversely I’m looking forward and never notice. 

Re the WoT. We’re definitely lower. 2700.  Compression loss?  Hard to say what it was when I picked up the boat with the “new” long block. I think it was  the same. And 2700 is  what we saw during the sea trial pre- “New” long block.  

Thanks again to everyone 

Porter A54-152


Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 15, 2018, at 8:50 AM, Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Porter, I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine. It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs… does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Porter McRoberts
 

Thank you Danny . Good to know. 

Teun was very helpful. He’s down on this model of D3 and got a new/different one. Smart man. The warranty for us only covers a new long block. Which seems realistic. I also have tones of spares for this engine. Etc. Getting CDM to understand an electrically isolated engine Pyle prove incredibly difficult. 
Surprisingly Panama might as well be Somalia in terms of good reliable Volvo work. Rest of the country splendid. 

Some have expressed suspicion that the long block was never actually changed. It’s mine too. Today I’m going to do some forensics. 

We work so hard to make sure everything is perfect. It’s frustrating to have rely on a system that seems so error prone, and over which we have so little control. 

One of the things I really need to learn is how to get the fault codes out of the helm display. 

Had I that, at the beginning, we’d be so much further along in this process. We’re 2.5 months here in Panama with the engine. 

But as my Guru says, “slow down enjoy the trip”. Bill R and Marcus Aurelius to the rescue. 

I’d love a mechanical engine. 

Thanks for all the comments from everyone 

Porter
A54-152. Ibis. 
Vista Mar Marina, Panama

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 15, 2018, at 1:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Porter,

Like everyone I feel for you. Some thoughts. Unless something like salt water ingress  happens and oil and filters are changed regularly diesel engines, mechanically are good for very high hours, 4000 ordinary, 8000, not unusual. You had all the mechanical parts renewed with the long block. I guess not all the wiring looms (which are considerable) nor the operational computer systems. That's where I would be looking. Teun Bass in Noumea has a similar story to tell and he may have something to offer.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 16 August 2018 at 01:50 "Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter, I think your maintenance regime for the engine looks just fine. It must be very frustrating to have this problem happening again.

I’m not clear on exactly what is the cause of the problem, but then I’m no diesel mechanic! Has that been clearly laid out by Volvo to your satisfaction?

That tell-tale puff of smoke is interesting, which I guess tells of oil ending up where it shouldn’t be and then burning off. I wonder if you can share a few more details about the exact circumstances around when it puffs… does it happen once, only under load, in neutral, idling and then gunning quickly etc. That would allow others to test and report comparisons.

I have the same D3–110i-C model and the Amel specified autoprop. My WOT is 2950-3000rpm.

I hope for a satisfactory resolution for you, it inspires no confidence in your planned travels when things like this happen.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

 

Ruedi,

Your Amel should have a Wasi Power Ball swivel at the connection between the chain and anchor. Does it?

Also, 10mm chain and gypsies come in 2 different sized links, called pitch. Carefully measure the long inside dimension of several links. Then inspect the gypsy for all markings. Let me know what you find. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Aug 17, 2018, 06:01 Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Dana
I'm with Dean and wish you good luck! 
YES please let us know about your project with Beta. Looking back to 'old school' engines as well. I would do the same step back if my D3 is giving-up service.
Cheers
Ruedi, SY WASABI, A54.#55


On 17 Aug 2018, at 15:05, Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Dana, Good luck with the re-power project.

I (and I’m sure many other 54 owners) will be really interested to hear your progress.

I would love to have an ‘old-school’ motor again.

Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154

X


Re: Long block failure on a Volvo D3-110 Amel 54-152

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Dana,
Good luck with the re-power project.

I (and I’m sure many other 54 owners) will be really interested to hear your progress.

I would love to have an ‘old-school’ motor again.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154

Sent from my iPhone X


Mystery item found on A-54

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Any idea from the group?

I found this 2 stainless steel peaces 40cm each on my Amel-54 and I have no clue what it is for?


Best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54.#55 

Gouvia, Korfu 


Anchor Chain twisted in the locker after using some times

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear Amelias


On my Amel-54 I have original setup, as I think (Buegel-Anchor, WASI Powerball, Lewmar Windlass V4/V5).


I found a strange behavior of the anchor-chain which is after 8-10 Anchor maneuvers very badly twisted in the chain locker. It happened that when I need to draw more chain (let say over 40m) the chain is blocking in the windlass, because of this heavy twist in the locker. From time to time I take out the 100m chain and un-twist to avoid blockage, but still then after maybe 50-60m the twist coms back after short usage. 


Anchor chain 10mm Stainless-Steel (brand unknown) was replaced by former owner 2 years ago. The gypsy looks good, used but not damaged (I have not much experience how it must look like ;-) The V4/5 Gypsy No.203 (10mm) is correct. The chain works well in the windlass (also Swivel), and it seems all is matching.  

 

I ask you experienced guys who may had the similar problem, or who could know the cause of the twisted chain? 


- Is the gypsy of the windlass defect or over-used to much?

- Is the Stainless-Steel chain of a bad quality?

- Could the chain twist if it is not 100% match, it seems to match, but ?? 

- Any other idea for this strange behavior?

 

Thanks for advice and best regards

Ruedi

WASABI 

A54-#55

Gouvia, Korfu

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu pole setup

smiles bernard
 

Thanks so much for this detailed and helpful response Alan. Very much appreciated indeed. 

Sadly I don’t have the manuals for the Maramu. 

The previous owner of SeaLove had managed to brake one of the whisker pole harken bell/toggles but said he only ever needed the one pole for his sailing style but as I’m planning to fly twin headsails downwind I have replaced the broken bits and now just trying to figure it all out. 

So it looks like I need to go rope shopping!

The Maramu deck/ cabin line attachment points differ from the SM so I’d be really interested to also hear from anyone who has experience of the Maramu line attachments if they have the time 

The SM double headsail setup with the triple foil luff groove sounds brilliant. I’m surprised other boat makers have not copied this 

All the best
Miles



On 16 Aug 2018, at 22:24, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,

Do you not have the AMEL Manual that came with the boat that explains how to do it ?

Ours is SM2000, but it should be pretty much the same I would think.
'
You should have 6 lines, 2 blue, 2 red and 2 yellow.
With the pole mounted up and folded back, hanging from the rail :
Blue is the foreguy...from the pole end plate that will end up being fwd, forward through the block at the stanchion base at the fwd locker and back to the cleat on the cabin top.
Red is the afterguy ... from the aft pole end plate to the cleat outside the aft cabin.
Yellow is the down haul .... from the bottom pole plate  to the cleat opposite the mast base.
The topping lift is white and already rigged on the mast...take the shackle end to the uppermost plate on the boom end.
All our ropes have tape on them to indicate approximately where they should be tied off.
Take the port side genoa sheet out of the genoa car, take it forward and outside of everything and thread it through the end of the pole and to the block that takes the genoa sheet to the winch .... leave plenty of slack in it.

To launch it all
Lift up the topping lift until the pole end is at about chest height for the person that's going to push it out.
Go forward and take the blue line and 1,2,3 GO....the person at the cockpit pushes the pole out, the one with blue rope pulls like fury as the pole is swung out. Cleat it off quickly once the pole is out and the red line taut.

Now you adjust all the lines to get the pole horizontal. Then you can unfurl the genoa.

Same procedure for the ballooner  which you hoist on its special halyard with its hook on the stbd side slot of the headsail foil The hook secures itself at the top of the foil and the halyard is retrieved. Secure the tack at the deck before pulling out the sheet. Thread the ballooner sheet through the end of the pole through the block to the starboard winch and then push the pole out etc....

Getting the ballooner down involves using the dehooker which is attached to the ballooner halyard and pulled up the third slot in the foil. It releases the ballooner hook and the ballooner luff will collapse down the foil. Pull down the dehooker etc etc....

My manual is about 17Mb...too big for the files section on the forum. I will see if I can scan the relevant pages and post them as a file...pictures are worth a thousand words.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

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