Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

 

Pat,

All I am saying is, until you experience the security of that helm seat design in heavy conditions, I believe you would not change it. I believe that after you experience those conditions, your understanding of the design will change.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 8:38 AM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill, I would install a metal backing plate under the deck , so structurally I am not too concerned. It is that the tube is sleeved (allowing for height adjustment)and attachment points under the seat may combine to allow a degree of movement that concerns me. My seat now only has a slight curvature built in for adjusting to heel ,you may have the same seat. The chair I am looking at has side bolsters that mimics that somewhat. Since we are generally on auto pilot , I could swivel the seat seat towards windward and have a 15 degree recline,might be pretty comfortable while still be able to monitor gauges. My main concern is that it may look a bit big and movement,that would bother me.

Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 9:01 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

 
Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.

 

Ian, 

You could improve on your method by adding one of Eric's steps...the beer.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 6:47 AM Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Alternatively.....take a short piece of webbing and make a loop, trapping the ends of the loop onto the end cap with a jubilee clip.  Sit down in the cockpit with a beer. Put the loop over a cleat on the mizzen mast and give the tube a sharp tug.  Bingo! (  only two hands needed and you don't get wet ! )


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of michael winand mfw642000@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 23 August 2018 06:21:08
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.
 


Nice method 
Michael 


On Thu, 23 Aug 2018 at 12:46, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
 


Once you have the membrane assembly apart disconnect the membranes from each other. Put a 1/2 inch tubing over the hose nipple with a hose clamp. This is connected to a water supply, dock or boat water, turn on the water. Let the air escape and then put your finger over the hole where the water is escaping. 

Hold the hole closed with your finger. As the water pressurizes the vessel  the end caps will slide out due to water pressure . Just hold the loosest end cap  in place until the second one comes out.
Easiest way yet to remove the end caps. 3 hands is helpful.

Oh don't forget new O rings.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite

On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 05:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine ACU 400 AP

 

Paul,

The Response is set in the setup and I think the default is 5, but you can change the response at the control head while sailing...refer to your manual. I think you need a Response of 2 or 3 in those downwind situations...try it the next time.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 6:15 PM osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello!

I have installed the Raymarine ACU 400 Auto Pilot together with new Raymarine instruments, I use my old Autohelm AP electronics as back up. I kept the old drive units, so only the electronic part is new.

I did expect better performance from the new system even though I was rather happy with the old system.

The new system works OK going up wind can't say it is better than the old system.

The problem is down wind the new is inferior to the old system. I assume it is a trimming but it is rather awkward to adjust as one need waves and high wind but if you have that you can't have the AP in Auto but it must be in stand by to adjust settings that are rather fare down the menu, not very user friendly.

When going down wind the course is not very straight on the contrary one has to gard it very carefully and sometimes take over and do manual steering, which i have not needed to do with the old electronics, with the old we have sailed down wind with 40 knots apparent wind so true has been close to 48 knots and the course has been rather stable. even with rather large sea.

Now we have problem when wind approaching 20 knots and waves less than 2 meters. 

The setting we have is 

Hard over time 16,5s

Rudder damping 2

Display response 5 for speed and wind, do not now if that influence the AP performance , can't say I'm impressed of the manual who cover tree different AP .

can't say it's a big difference when using Performance, Cruising or Leisure settings for Response level 

Anyone having this system on an Super Maramu, what are your settings? How does it perform for you?

Any advice how to trim the system?

Paul on SY Kerpa AM#259




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

greatketch@...
 

If the membrane is pickled with sodium metabisufite (also called sodium pyrosufite) the issue with long term storage (beyond about 1 year) is not damage to the membranes from the pickling solution, but rather that the pickling solution losses its biostatic properties and the membranes foul from biological growth.  

When dissolved in water sodium metabisufite gradually hydrolyses to release sulfur dioxide leaving a solution of sodium sulfite. Sulfur dioxide is a strong reducing agent, and a very effective microbiocide.  Once all of the sodium metabisulfite hydrolyses, and the resulting sulfur dioxide reacts and dissipates, there is nothing left to protect the membranes from biological growth.  The usual recommendation is that the membranes should be re-pickled after a year to keep them safe.  I would guess that timeframe is actually highly variable depending on initial water quality, pH, bioburden, temperature, and other variables.

This is the same reason that membranes sold "wet" have a relatively short shelf life.  It is not the membranes that "go bad" rather it is the pickling solution.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Santorin spinnaker question

Herbert Lackner
 

thanks Alan! that seems to be a strong Aluminium extension to the Mast-Head, professional solution.  Cannot do that now, but maybe a stainless steel plate, screwed on the masthead, with rubber between the aluminium and the steel, would do the job also.

Currently there is a hole at the masthead-plate where a shackle was installed, I did not like the solution with the steel-shackle going through the aluminum plate (hard steel chaving against soft aluminium) and therefore removed the shackle, but maybe a strong dyneema line attached to the masthead-plate would also do it as a very simple solution.  any recommendations are welcome 

the foto attached shows the "old configuration" with the shackle where the block was fixed (next to the old B&G masthead unit, foto was made looking down at the top of the mast), I removed it when we serviced and repainted the mast. The hole is still there and could be used to attach a dyneema line with a block...

thx again, herbert


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Yea, I knew what you would say. In fact, Diane and I were kidding this morning ,that you would yell at me when you came aboard in St. Michaels. I said I might as well put it out there now, and face the music. I figure at least from this distance ,you can't hit me. Your boat was newer and had a better seat than we have, and no doubt more comfortable. I know its a departure ,but also would be unquestionably much more comfortable. I am still debating and would like to hear from people that have such a seat.
Mea Culpa,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 9:21 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

 
Pat,

You know what I am going to say...yada, yada, don't change it because...yada, yada.

But, FYI, Judy and I sat in that seat in a cyclone in the middle of the IO. It is perfect! Don't change it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I would install a metal backing plate under the deck , so structurally I am not too concerned. It is that the tube is sleeved (allowing for height adjustment)and attachment points under the seat may combine to allow a degree of movement that concerns me. My seat now only has a slight curvature built in for adjusting to heel ,you may have the same seat. The chair I am looking at has side bolsters that mimics that somewhat. Since we are generally on auto pilot , I could swivel the seat seat towards windward and have a 15 degree recline,might be pretty comfortable while still be able to monitor gauges. My main concern is that it may look a bit big and movement,that would bother me.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 9:01 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

 
Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

My pleasure Terry,

Yes it was factory (Amel) installed!


--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 8/23/18, singh_terence@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 23, 2018, 7:42 AM


 









Hi Alex, it's be a while. I hope you are
well!This is the level of detail I was hoping for.
Thank you very much.
I
assume this was a factory install?
Terry


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Helm Seat

 

Pat,

You know what I am going to say...yada, yada, don't change it because...yada, yada.

But, FYI, Judy and I sat in that seat in a cyclone in the middle of the IO. It is perfect! Don't change it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Helm Seat

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

The concern I’d have about sitting in a typical pedestal seat is not rough seas, but rather heeling. There are many very comfortable helm seat built for high end motor yachts, but they all assume that the boat is basically flat. I have not yet seen a pedestal seat I’d want to sit in when heeled at 15 degrees.

The other issue around a pedestal is structural. The deck in that area might need strengthening to support a single point of attachment of a pedestal. Note for example, the way the nav station seat pedestal is built into the boat.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

Craig Briggs
 

Pat, 
I see that Yahoo did garble that link, so just search it directly. And, yes, keep the fresh water flow normal and you should be ok. I think the issue with long term pickling may be damage to the membrane rather than just needing a "cleaning", but you should be able to tell - if your TDS is low after firing it up you may have dodged the bullet.
Cheers, Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig , I will watch the video, I would really like to run it now before I leave, so that I can replace/repair here before departure. The membranes have only been used for six months , then pickled for 31/2 years . I don't know what that does to them , it seems if you ran them for awhile they would clean themselves ,who knows ,I don't. So you are saying as long as I don't turn the pressure up beyond the green zone , it would be OK .See ya in ST. Michaels.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 7:52 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 

Hi Pat,

You definitely can run your watermaker in fresh water without ruining the membrane(s). The only caveat is that you must not exceed your fresh water output rating.  

Start your unit up with, as Alan says, the pressure knob fully closed (which you normally do). Then bring the pressure up slowly and monitor the fresh water output flow. In sea water, where you might need 800 psi to get your rated output (mine is 20 gph), in brackish it's maybe 400 or so and only 200ish in fresh water.

For a good video on this by Rich Boren, who owns the CruiseRO company, check out http://blog.cruiserowaterandpower.com/can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water/
If the link on the last line gets garbled by yahoo, it is http colon slash slash blog dot cruiserowaterandpower dot com slash can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water slash

I used to do this all the time on Sangaris, so I know it works.

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Alan, I am concerned about that , leaving them pickled so long and they were new four years ago. So it sounds like there is no way to fully test the system until I get to salt water. If I could find a way to make up some salt water and recirculate it ,that would work. I would like to put it through a stress test prior to heading for the Caribbean.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2018 4:33 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 
Hi Pat,

ATF 90 - Automatic Transmission Fluid SAE 90

You can rinse the membranes with fresh water with the pressure knob fully anti clockwise i.e. no pressure.
If you pressurise the membranes with fresh water you will ruin them - if they are not already ruined from sitting pickled for that length of time.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

 


Re: Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu

Terence Singh
 

Hi Alex, it's be a while. I hope you are well!
This is the level of detail I was hoping for. Thank you very much.

I assume this was a factory install?

Terry


Helm Seat

Patrick McAneny
 

We have never found our helm seat comfortable,even though I added higher back support and larger teak armrest , it is an earlier model .We have been considering installing a hi back helm seat on a pedestal .I have only seen one, on the SM Nomad in St. Martins . It looked very comfortable ,yet a bit big. Size concerns me a little , but my real concern is stability . Sitting on top of a pedestal in rough seas concerns me. Can anyone with experience with a pedestal seat, tell me if it felt stable. 

Thanks,

Pat

SM123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig , I will watch the video, I would really like to run it now before I leave, so that I can replace/repair here before departure. The membranes have only been used for six months , then pickled for 31/2 years . I don't know what that does to them , it seems if you ran them for awhile they would clean themselves ,who knows ,I don't. So you are saying as long as I don't turn the pressure up beyond the green zone , it would be OK .See ya in ST. Michaels.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 7:52 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 

Hi Pat,

You definitely can run your watermaker in fresh water without ruining the membrane(s). The only caveat is that you must not exceed your fresh water output rating.  

Start your unit up with, as Alan says, the pressure knob fully closed (which you normally do). Then bring the pressure up slowly and monitor the fresh water output flow. In sea water, where you might need 800 psi to get your rated output (mine is 20 gph), in brackish it's maybe 400 or so and only 200ish in fresh water.

For a good video on this by Rich Boren, who owns the CruiseRO company, check out http://blog.cruiserowaterandpower.com/can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water/
If the link on the last line gets garbled by yahoo, it is http colon slash slash blog dot cruiserowaterandpower dot com slash can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water slash

I used to do this all the time on Sangaris, so I know it works.

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Alan, I am concerned about that , leaving them pickled so long and they were new four years ago. So it sounds like there is no way to fully test the system until I get to salt water. If I could find a way to make up some salt water and recirculate it ,that would work. I would like to put it through a stress test prior to heading for the Caribbean.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2018 4:33 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 
Hi Pat,

ATF 90 - Automatic Transmission Fluid SAE 90

You can rinse the membranes with fresh water with the pressure knob fully anti clockwise i.e. no pressure.
If you pressurise the membranes with fresh water you will ruin them - if they are not already ruined from sitting pickled for that length of time.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Terry,
Here are some pictures on how my Espar heater was installed
http://www.nikimat.com/espar_d5lc.html
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/22/18, singh_terence@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 22, 2018, 10:39 PM


 









I am looking to install Hydronic heating on
Libby as she will be in the Pacific North West for a few
years to come. This will give us the flexibility to cruise
at will during the winter months.
I understand some SM's might have
had diesel heating installed at the factory.  Is this the
case?
If so, I would
appreciate a clear understanding of where the furnace is
installed and where the exhaust through hull is located and
any other important considerations for this
installation.
I would also
appreciate any commentary or thoughts from owners that have
retrofitted diesel heating, either forced air or hydronic.
(hot water heating via radiators and DC fans)
Terry SinghS.V.LibbySM#196
Maple Bay, BC


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine ACU 400 AP

SV Perigee
 

Hi Paul,

We recently installed the RM EVO-400, installing also a new Linear Drive (servicing the old one and keeping it for spares). 

Like you, we were happy with the performance of the old unit.  I also preferred the way of directly adjusting sensitivity on the old A/P.  For the new EVO-400, I dislike that you need to be in STBY to adjust anything in the lower menus. 

I have not made any adjustments to the A/P settings - it is still configured with the default settings as it came "out of the box" - I set it to "slow sail boat" during the initial config process.  We have not quite 1,000nm on the unit, about 500nm of which was downwind, during which seas to 2.5-3m, confused; wind to 22kts, 155-175º apparent.  Genoa poled out (couldn't fly the Ballooner because of a broken up-lock.)

I do not see any big differences between the 'Performance' and other settings.  Just a slightly quicker response, and closer track/heading keeping.  I haven't seen the need to adjust the various parameters such as rudder damping, or response speeds.   So
I haven't (yet) done a deep study of the finer points of adjusting the A/P settings.

Regarding the performance of the new unit: so far, all OK, with none of the control problems you report.

I will have a look at my set-up parameters, and provide a report back on these. 

We are hoping that you can get your A/P working as it should.  I think one needs to be able to trust the A/P completely.
Best,

David & Leanne
Perigee SM#396
Curaçao



On Wednesday, 22 August 2018, 19:15, "osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
 
Hello!
I have installed the Raymarine ACU 400 Auto Pilot together with new Raymarine instruments, I use my old Autohelm AP electronics as back up. I kept the old drive units, so only the electronic part is new.
I did expect better performance from the new system even though I was rather happy with the old system.
The new system works OK going up wind can't say it is better than the old system.
The problem is down wind the new is inferior to the old system. I assume it is a trimming but it is rather awkward to adjust as one need waves and high wind but if you have that you can't have the AP in Auto but it must be in stand by to adjust settings that are rather fare down the menu, not very user friendly.
When going down wind the course is not very straight on the contrary one has to gard it very carefully and sometimes take over and do manual steering, which i have not needed to do with the old electronics, with the old we have sailed down wind with 40 knots apparent wind so true has been close to 48 knots and the course has been rather stable. even with rather large sea.
Now we have problem when wind approaching 20 knots and waves less than 2 meters. 
The setting we have is 
Hard over time 16,5s
Rudder damping 2
Display response 5 for speed and wind, do not now if that influence the AP performance , can't say I'm impressed of the manual who cover tree different AP .
can't say it's a big difference when using Performance, Cruising or Leisure settings for Response level 
Anyone having this system on an Super Maramu, what are your settings? How does it perform for you?
Any advice how to trim the system?
Paul on SY Kerpa AM#259





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

Patrick McAneny
 

Alan, This is why I asked the question, I could not remember what I used the last time . Then when I went into the auto store I was surprised by how many different fluids there was to chose from. There must have been ten at least.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Aug 23, 2018 3:02 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 
Thanks Eric,
apologies if i have misled people.
You are quite right.
After some research I discover there are a lot of ATF variants that are specified for different applications.
Advice : don't listen to me, read the manual !!
I should take my own advice !!

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

Craig Briggs
 


Hi Pat,

You definitely can run your watermaker in fresh water without ruining the membrane(s). The only caveat is that you must not exceed your fresh water output rating.  

Start your unit up with, as Alan says, the pressure knob fully closed (which you normally do). Then bring the pressure up slowly and monitor the fresh water output flow. In sea water, where you might need 800 psi to get your rated output (mine is 20 gph), in brackish it's maybe 400 or so and only 200ish in fresh water.

For a good video on this by Rich Boren, who owns the CruiseRO company, check out http://blog.cruiserowaterandpower.com/can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water/
If the link on the last line gets garbled by yahoo, it is http colon slash slash blog dot cruiserowaterandpower dot com slash can-i-run-a-marine-water-maker-in-fresh-or-brackish-water slash

I used to do this all the time on Sangaris, so I know it works.

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Alan, I am concerned about that , leaving them pickled so long and they were new four years ago. So it sounds like there is no way to fully test the system until I get to salt water. If I could find a way to make up some salt water and recirculate it ,that would work. I would like to put it through a stress test prior to heading for the Caribbean.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2018 4:33 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 
Hi Pat,

ATF 90 - Automatic Transmission Fluid SAE 90

You can rinse the membranes with fresh water with the pressure knob fully anti clockwise i.e. no pressure.
If you pressurise the membranes with fresh water you will ruin them - if they are not already ruined from sitting pickled for that length of time.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Alternatively.....take a short piece of webbing and make a loop, trapping the ends of the loop onto the end cap with a jubilee clip.  Sit down in the cockpit with a beer. Put the loop over a cleat on the mizzen mast and give the tube a sharp tug.  Bingo! (  only two hands needed and you don't get wet ! )


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: 23 August 2018 06:21:08
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Easy and novel way to remove membrane end caps.
 


Nice method 
Michael 


On Thu, 23 Aug 2018 at 12:46, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 


Once you have the membrane assembly apart disconnect the membranes from each other. Put a 1/2 inch tubing over the hose nipple with a hose clamp. This is connected to a water supply, dock or boat water, turn on the water. Let the air escape and then put your finger over the hole where the water is escaping. 

Hold the hole closed with your finger. As the water pressurizes the vessel  the end caps will slide out due to water pressure . Just hold the loosest end cap  in place until the second one comes out.
Easiest way yet to remove the end caps. 3 hands is helpful.

Oh don't forget new O rings.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite

On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 05:33 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... 


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