Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 1985 Maramu for sale

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

Hello Bob,

I don't think this should offend anyone, and I think it is the right place to let people know you are selling your Amel!!  But that's just me...

Cheers, and hope you find a good sailer to take care of Chara!

Ken
SV Aquarius
SM2K #262


On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 3:11 PM, "bob.sarff@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
I hope I'm not offending fellow Amel owners by this post.   I know that there are perspective owners who follow this site and wanted them to know that my wife and I are preparing to put our 1985 Maramu on the market and want to give them the first opportunity to own this fine but older yacht.  We've lived on Chara for 10 years and cruised the South Pacific, currently in Fiji.  If anyone is interested and would like additional information please contact me at bob.sarff@...

Respectfully, 
Bob Sarff
S\V Chara



New Group Member in Need of Assistance

Paul Stascavage
 

Friends of ours on an Amel 55 need some assistance.  They have attempted to join the group bu have been unsuccessful. 

They are looking for:

"A wiring diagram for the Amel 55 in mast roller reefing including the motor, the relay and the solenoid?"

Any help would  be appreciated.  I believe they have already contacted Amel with no reply.

All the best.

Paul Stascavage

SM #466
S/V Rita Kathryn



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: How much oil and dipstick reading.

Eric Freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: zink anode of the starboard side doesn’t corrode

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Bill,

 

Good information. My starboard zinc typically but not always goes faster than the port side. Now I know why. Thanks!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 2, 2018 7:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: zink anode of the starboard side doesn’t corrode

 

 

Olaf,

 

Possibly this will help you, or, at least make you feel better. 

 

Although I cannot provide any reference for this, I was once told that when a bonding system is connected to more than one anode, the anode depletion be unequal between the anodes and the anode closest to the "load" will deplete first. I believe this to be correct and I have what you describe on many Amels.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Sun, Sep 2, 2018 at 4:55 PM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Olaf,

 

The only reason that one zinc would not corrode as expected is that it is not making proper electrical contact with the bonding system.  

 

When you are hauled out, check for continuity between the problem zinc, and the rudder post in the aft cabin. You will likely find that the connection is broken.  

 

Once you remove the zinc, you might quickly find the problem with the bolt or the zinc.  If the problem is not obvious right there, you'll need to dive deeper into the internal structure of the rudder to find the problem.  

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hello AMELians,

 

I found out that the zink anode on starboard side doesn't corrode. What could be the reason? What I have to check?

 

The zink anode on portside corrode as expected.

 

 

Thanks so much in advance

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: zink anode of the starboard side doesn’t corrode

 

Olaf,

Possibly this will help you, or, at least make you feel better. 

Although I cannot provide any reference for this, I was once told that when a bonding system is connected to more than one anode, the anode depletion be unequal between the anodes and the anode closest to the "load" will deplete first. I believe this to be correct and I have what you describe on many Amels.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sun, Sep 2, 2018 at 4:55 PM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Olaf,

The only reason that one zinc would not corrode as expected is that it is not making proper electrical contact with the bonding system.  

When you are hauled out, check for continuity between the problem zinc, and the rudder post in the aft cabin. You will likely find that the connection is broken.  

Once you remove the zinc, you might quickly find the problem with the bolt or the zinc.  If the problem is not obvious right there, you'll need to dive deeper into the internal structure of the rudder to find the problem.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hello AMELians,

I found out that the zink anode on starboard side doesn't corrode. What could be the reason? What I have to check?

The zink anode on portside corrode as expected.



Thanks so much in advance

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Deck hatches

karkauai
 

Hmmm, I don’t see a way to attach a photo. I’ll add it to the Kristy Album.
Kent


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Deck hatches

karkauai
 

I have finally gotten around to removing the hatch over the forward head. The nuts on the bolts at the corners were spinning, and were buried between the hatch/deck and the backing for the headliner inside.

I used a 1 inch hole saw and made holes as close to directly below the bolts as possible.

Here’s what I found (pic attached):
The backing board for the head liner is made of a gypsum-type material (like drywall) about 1/2” thick. Above that is plywood, also about 1/2” thick. The plywood is cut out around the bolt holes to leave room for the nuts and ends of the bolts. Above the plywood is the fiberglass decking, also about 1/2” thick at the pad where the hatch sits. Apparently the hatches were installed before the gypsum board was installed, which covered up the nuts.

There is a washer on the bolt and just a regular nut, no lock nut or nylock nut. The washer and nut snug up against the fiberglass decking.

I will reinstall using washers and nylock nuts. The holes in the gypsum will by taped and hidden by the wooden trim.

Bottom line:
Even though I convinced myself after much testing that the leak was coming from the hatch-to-deck union, there was no evidence of that after I finally got the hatch removed. It was really stuck down with a lot of adhesive (?5200?) and a b____ to remove.
Before you do that, replace the hatch seals and o-rings on the through-glass dogs first.
If you have to rebed the hatches, you will likely have to drill holes to access the nuts at the corners of the hatch (8 of them) and to reinstall the nuts

Hope this helps. If I’m not clear, please ask and I’ll try again.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

I have an oil sucker, the 6.5 Lt with a manual pump.  When I change the oil every 200 hours, I also suck out the transmission fluid and change it too.
Takes an additional 5 minutes.

Ken
Sailing Aquarius
SM2K#262


On Sunday, September 2, 2018 4:45 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Bill, I am getting ready to change the fluid as well. I have not found a plug ,could you confirm there is one and where, I am surprised that it only takes 3/4 of a liter. I am sure I was told to use 40w oil in the past, its been awhile . I did not think you would need to change it yearly, I am over due by a couple of years. I have 150,000 miles on my truck and I think I have replaced the fluid twice . I wonder if that is why, I needed a new trans a few years ago. I will start changing it ,when I change my oil.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2018 4:46 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

 
Paul,

I think I remember that you have the Volvo TMD22 engine.  If so, this applies to you...

You have to be a very careful talking about the ZF transmissions.  The ZF25M transmission that came on the Volvo TMD22 is a manual shift transmission, and holds about 0.75 liters of DEXTRAN IV automatic transmission fluid, NOT 90 weight oil.  The same exact machine was called an HBW250 before ZF and Hurth joined forces.

Other engines used a ZF25 transmission, which is a hydraulic shifting model with larger horsepower capacity and a completely different design.  It causes no end of confusion with model numbers so similar and actual designs so different!

The recommendation for change interval in my manual for the ZF25M is "Once a year." There is no change interval recommended based on hours of operation.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

Ken Powers <sailingaquarius@...>
 

If you are leaving the boat on the hard for a while here is a list you may want to think about:



Sea Water Valves
1.     Close all sea water valves. There are two in the engine room.
2.     Put a little vegetable oil in the valves and work them.  Make sure
         you run the engines for at least 1 hour before running the water 
         maker when you return.  No oil should be introduced to water maker.
Salt Water Removal
  1.   Run the engine and Generator for 5 minutes with fresh water.  
  2.   Run the air conditioners with fresh water for 5 minutes.  
  3.   Flush the Toilets with fresh water from the engine room.  
  4.   Run Fresh water through the anchor washClean bilge
   
Bilge
1.     Clean bilge 
2.     Test the bilge pump   
3.     Test the bilge pump alarm.


Watermaker
  1.   Back flush the water maker membranes.
  2.   Pickle if required.  (or - Find someone to back-flush every week for 10 minutes)
   
Electrical
1.    Turn off all the 24V equipment not to be used.
2.    Turn off fresh water pump.
3.    Circuit breakers in wet locker to be off.
4.    Check current to see if charging or discharging the batteries
5.    Turn off inverter
6.    Bow Thruster locked
7.    Clean out refrigerators

On Deck
1.    Loosen Halyards.
2.    Put on Covers as required.
3.    Outboard put away and run with fresh water until all gas is burned out of the carburetor.
4.    Turn off gas bottle valve in trunk.
5.    Take down flags as required
6.    Lock and remove engine key.
7.    Lock all storage lockers.  (From inside Aquarius)
8.    Shut and lock windows/hatches as required. (anywhere water can get in?)
Last - Lock cockpit door.

Leaving Aquarius on a mooring ball, or at anchor (Not Recommended)  
1.   Close the valves to water tight doors.
2.   Close water tight doors.

Leaving Aquarius for more than a few weeks:
  
1.     Try to have an air conditioner (or De-Humidifier) running if in a humid climate.
2.     Have someone trust worthy to watch over Aquarius.
     a.     Membranes must be flushed every week for 10 minutes.
     b.     Check engine room for any leaks or something wrong.
     c.      Should check the battery level in the morning before 9AM, if below 25V
              at anytime, contact owner.
 



On Sunday, September 2, 2018 11:13 AM, "olaf_renos@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello AMELians,

In two weeks my SM2K will be haul out. For me it is the first time of a haul out with a SM2K.
What would you suggest to do before and (directly) after haul out?
 
That’s my current list:
 
Before haul out
-          Empty the black water tanks and fill up with 0.5 Ltr vegetable oil. Open and close shortly the valves.
 
After haulout
-          Flush the Main engine, the generator and the AC’s with fresh water.
 
 
What else?
 
Thanks so much in advance.
 
Fair winds
Olaf
 
S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392
currently in Martinique




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

greatketch@...
 


Pat,

My drawings say there is a 17mm drain plug on the starboard side of the ZF25M (the side opposite the shift lever). It is pretty much directly under the dipstick.  I have never gone under there looking for it because I never use it, finding it easier, and much neater, to use my vacuum oil extractor through the dipstick. 

The design of these transmissions is quite old, at least 40 years. Back in those days, transmission fluids were likely much less sophisticated than they are now.  I would imagine with the best of the modern fluids, change interval can be extended, but...  a liter of transmission fluid is cheap, and it seems worth just using the gearbox manufacturer's recommendation and not being cheap about it.

Don't forget--when checking the level on this, you do not screw the dipstick in to take a level reading. Just drop it in.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Bill, I am getting ready to change the fluid as well. I have not found a plug ,could you confirm there is one and where, I am surprised that it only takes 3/4 of a liter. I am sure I was told to use 40w oil in the past, its been awhile . I did not think you would need to change it yearly, I am over due by a couple of years. I have 150,000 miles on my truck and I think I have replaced the fluid twice . I wonder if that is why, I needed a new trans a few years ago. I will start changing it ,when I change my oil.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2018 4:46 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

 
Paul,

I think I remember that you have the Volvo TMD22 engine.  If so, this applies to you...

You have to be a very careful talking about the ZF transmissions.  The ZF25M transmission that came on the Volvo TMD22 is a manual shift transmission, and holds about 0.75 liters of DEXTRAN IV automatic transmission fluid, NOT 90 weight oil.  The same exact machine was called an HBW250 before ZF and Hurth joined forces.

Other engines used a ZF25 transmission, which is a hydraulic shifting model with larger horsepower capacity and a completely different design.  It causes no end of confusion with model numbers so similar and actual designs so different!

The recommendation for change interval in my manual for the ZF25M is "Once a year." There is no change interval recommended based on hours of operation.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



Re: zink anode of the starboard side doesn’t corrode

greatketch@...
 


Olaf,

The only reason that one zinc would not corrode as expected is that it is not making proper electrical contact with the bonding system.  

When you are hauled out, check for continuity between the problem zinc, and the rudder post in the aft cabin. You will likely find that the connection is broken.  

Once you remove the zinc, you might quickly find the problem with the bolt or the zinc.  If the problem is not obvious right there, you'll need to dive deeper into the internal structure of the rudder to find the problem.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <olaf_renos@...> wrote :

Hello AMELians,

I found out that the zink anode on starboard side doesn't corrode. What could be the reason? What I have to check?

The zink anode on portside corrode as expected.



Thanks so much in advance

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Marine Surveyors

x_holdfast_x@...
 

Thanks John and Mark,

I reached out to Dave to check his availability.  Much appreciated.

Best,

Joey



---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

I second Dave Huffman. He was referred to us by Joel Potter when we purchased Cream Puff and we have recommended him to other Amel owners since. He knows his way around an Amel.

 

http://www.huffmanmarinesurveys.com/

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 7:26 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Marine Surveyors

 

 

Hi Joey,

   I used Dave Huffman.  He has done more than a few Amels.  He is based in Tampa but will travel to survey.  Of course if you can get Olivier then I would go with Olivier.  

 

Regards,  John

 

SV Annie SM37

Le Marin, Martinique

 

On Wed, Aug 29, 2018, 7:20 PM x_holdfast_x@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello all,

 

I am currently in the market for a SM and was wondering if anyone here can recommend a pre-purchase surveyor who has strong knowledge of Amel systems and tech.  It would be a bonus if the person was located in the Annapolis, Maryland area.  Thanks for any guidance here.

 

Best,

 

Joey


zink anode of the starboard side doesn’t corrode

olaf_renos@...
 

Hello AMELians,

I found out that the zink anode on starboard side doesn't corrode. What could be the reason? What I have to check?

The zink anode on portside corrode as expected.



Thanks so much in advance

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique



What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

olaf_renos@...
 

Hello AMELians,


In two weeks my SM2K will be haul out. For me it is the first time of a haul out with a SM2K.

What would you suggest to do before and (directly) after haul out?

 

That’s my current list:

 

Before haul out

-          Empty the black water tanks and fill up with 0.5 Ltr vegetable oil. Open and close shortly the valves.

 

After haulout

-          Flush the Main engine, the generator and the AC’s with fresh water.

 

 

What else?

 

Thanks so much in advance.

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: How much oil and dipstick reading.

 

When I went to the Yanmar school the instructor said that connecting a hose to the dip-stick tube and pumping will remove the majority of the oil. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Sep 2, 2018, 00:49 Paul Stascavage pstas2003@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Eric,

I believe we have the same motor and I have experienced the same with the installed pump being incapable of getting out all the old oil. 

I pump until nothing comes out, and then add a quart or two of fresh oil. I wait a few minutes for it to drain to the bottom of the pan and pump that out. I repeat the process one more time before adding and topping off the oil. I have found this makes a huge difference in the length of time the oil starts to look dirty. I do the same with the Onan. 

I have no idea if it is worth the expense of the extra oil but the way I look at it oil is cheap compared to a new engine and I sleep better. 

All the best,

Paul Stascavage 
SM 466
Cruising New England 

www.RitaKathryn.com




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster rebuild on a SM

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Graham,

During the bow thruster overhauled I did, twice I did not put the 30 x 42 x 8 oil seal properly and the 90 weight oil slowly leaked from the tuffnol shaft. So had to put a new one.

For info, since May 2016, Amel is suggesting using a 29 x 42 x 8 Oil Seal, but force will be required to push it in.
So this might be your solution.

Here is the complete overhaul:
http://www.nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 9/2/18, crwggb@yahoo.co.uk [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster rebuild on a SM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 2, 2018, 4:21 AM


 









Replaced the underwater seal on the
plastic shaft (on which the bow thruster prop is mounted)
and very quickly the oil was leaking out. I suspect this
shaft has become so worn the standard seal is now too
big.
1 Anyone tried just using a
"tighter seal?
2 Any advice on a complete
rebuild of the whole unit/ getting the parts from Amel? This
is my preferred option.
Graham Sula SM140Hong
Kong


Re: Installing diesel heating on a Super Maramu

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Jeppe,

Very, very interesting that Amel built most of the saloon and forward cabin pass through/ducting even on those boats that neither have forced air nor heating from the factory!  Since the hard part on any unheated sailboat is obviously finding the space for these thick air ducts, I guess Amel already did well over half of the job compared to many other sailboat makes.

This means that the decision to go Hydronic for non-heated/non-force-air-ventilated boats is not as self-evident as I had thought; those wanting to install an Airtronic would not be starting from zero at all.  But people wanting to install Hydronic could also try and profit from the existing Amel buildout, so it's a benefit for them as well.

Now, as to the ducting to the aft cabin: SM's with the heating or the forced-air option have a nifty, thick stainless steel tube that runs fore to aft, across the aft head, above the toilet seat.  This is the duct that connects the furnace in the cockpit locker to its exhaust in the aft cabin, immediately above the A/C exhaust.  When the Airtronic gets turned on, this tube gets warm, providing a bit of warmth to the area.  At some point after hull #350 was built, Amel installed a subsidiary sliding door/grilled exhaust longitudinally on the tube so that some warm air can issue inside the aft head, for even better heating, if so desired. 

Cheers,

Peregrinus
SM2K N°. 350 (2002)
Under sail, Sicily to Valletta


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Expected RPM at WOT

Courtney Gorman
 

Cheers Porter
Sounds like you are all in the right state..........of mind!!
Courtney
svTrippin



-----Original Message-----
From: Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2018 10:16 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Expected RPM at WOT

 
Thanks Courtney 
Maybe that’s the way to go!!

We’re getting a top lesson in patience, and despite this situation enjoying the hell out of ourselves. Whales galore, beautiful islands, dolphins on the bow for hours at a time. Girls getting back into school. Awesome and incredibly understanding and supportive wife and family, cool and helpful folks at our “local marina” ha!  Now I really have to learn the white floppy things above us!   And this is an amazing boat.  The plan was to reject the usual and let the world mold us into something new, tighter, more appreciative, patient, sentient and kind. It’s happening. The trip is on the inside. 

We’ll get there! Whenever there is ready for us. 

That’s our mantra this am!

Porter and Crew
S/V IBIS 54-152
Isla Contadora, Panama







Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Sep 1, 2018, at 5:02 AM, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Sounds to me that you should just go fast!  LOL 
Sorry for your continued difficulties, just keep enjoying paradise and smile, it makes everything better!  Cheers
Courtney
s/v Trippin'
54 #101 Grenada


-----Original Message-----
From: Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Aug 31, 2018 4:51 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Expected RPM at WOT

 
Dean thank you


The turbo does spin up. More with load of course. I am able to measure pressure. 


1000 rpm temp 78c and 0 kPa quiet
1500 rpm temp 79c and 20 kPa high pitched whir sound bit no vibration
2000 rpm temp 81c and 70 kPa quiet
2200 rpm WOT 84c and 110/120 kPa quiet


Volvo has yet to respond. 

Porter. 
A54-152



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Aug 31, 2018, at 3:16 PM, trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups...com> wrote:

 
Hi Porter,
No question remains in my mind that this is a problem for Volvo.

Re Nick’s observation, does the turbo spin up?
I wonder if the turbo is load controlled or just rpm controlled.
If it operates in concert with load being applied, maybe the fault is still associated with the boost sensor.

I’ll check mine in the morning for comparison.

Cheers
Dean


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I am getting ready to change the fluid as well. I have not found a plug ,could you confirm there is one and where, I am surprised that it only takes 3/4 of a liter. I am sure I was told to use 40w oil in the past, its been awhile . I did not think you would need to change it yearly, I am over due by a couple of years. I have 150,000 miles on my truck and I think I have replaced the fluid twice . I wonder if that is why, I needed a new trans a few years ago. I will start changing it ,when I change my oil.
Thanks,
Pat
SM123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2018 4:46 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: ZF transmission

 
Paul,

I think I remember that you have the Volvo TMD22 engine.  If so, this applies to you...

You have to be a very careful talking about the ZF transmissions.  The ZF25M transmission that came on the Volvo TMD22 is a manual shift transmission, and holds about 0.75 liters of DEXTRAN IV automatic transmission fluid, NOT 90 weight oil.  The same exact machine was called an HBW250 before ZF and Hurth joined forces.

Other engines used a ZF25 transmission, which is a hydraulic shifting model with larger horsepower capacity and a completely different design.  It causes no end of confusion with model numbers so similar and actual designs so different!

The recommendation for change interval in my manual for the ZF25M is "Once a year." There is no change interval recommended based on hours of operation.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



Bow thruster rebuild on a SM

Graham Boyd
 

Replaced the underwater seal on the plastic shaft (on which the bow thruster prop is mounted) and very quickly the oil was leaking out. I suspect this shaft has become so worn the standard seal is now too big.


1 Anyone tried just using a "tighter seal?


2 Any advice on a complete rebuild of the whole unit/ getting the parts from Amel? This is my preferred option.


Graham 

Sula 

SM140

Hong Kong  

18561 - 18580 of 60471