Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the to do’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

greatketch@...
 

I have never actually calibrated it.  With all the variables, I just treat it as a "qualitative" measure of salt content. 

I grab a sample from flow meter tap on the watermaker panel and as long as that is less than 400 ppm, I am happy.  I have a handheld meter I use for that check.

I include on my monthly maintenance checklist to pull the sensor and clean/inspect the pins.  If there is any significant visual corrosion, they get polished.  Any deep pitting, and they get replaced.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <mfw642000@...> wrote :

Great  post. 
Do you measure the resistance to obtain a reference for a good /bad  sensor 


On Mon, 10 Sep 2018 at 4:39, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Some additional thoughts around the Dessalator TDS sensor...  We have one of the older boats where the sensor actually does control the reject valve. I do not know how to tell which type of circuit board you might have on your boat. And while it works... as Bill Rouse says it is not to be trusted, or at least not without regular verification.


The TDS sensor consists of a rubber plug with two stainless steel pins into the water flow.  The resistance between those pins is measured.  High resistance is "good" water and low resistance is "bad" water.  So far so good--in theory. 

The problem is that the system is terribly "un-robust," and almost everything that can go wrong with it makes you think that "bad" water is really "good."

The first problem is that the stainless pins corrode over time.  The layer of corrosion on the pins increases the measured resistance making "bad" water look like "good" water to the system.  This was my first clue about the corrosion issues with this sensor. Our reject valve began accepting water immediately on starting the pump, which was a change in behavior, and not what I'd expect. If your system is accepting water from the membranes as soon as you turn it on, check the sensor for corrosion.

Second problem:  The pins can become disconnected.  The system dose not seem to recognize this and just assumes that the infinite resistance it sees means that the water is perfect...

Third problem:  The measured resistance will actually vary depending on how much of the pins are exposed in the water.  The design of the sensor is literally two 3mm SS pins stuck in a rubber plug.  There is nothing that fixes their position.  Deeper immersion of the pins means the water would have to have lower TDS to trigger the switch.

So... Operational lesson always check your water with another meter.

Another lesson, If the pins on the probe corrode, the probe (the rubber plug and two pins) can be purchased from Dessalator US distributers for about US$75. You can also reuse the rubber plug, get 3mm OD stainless rod, cut it to length, and make your own new pins for a few pennies each.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

michael winand
 

Great  post. 
Do you measure the resistance to obtain a reference for a good /bad  sensor 


On Mon, 10 Sep 2018 at 4:39, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Some additional thoughts around the Dessalator TDS sensor...  We have one of the older boats where the sensor actually does control the reject valve. I do not know how to tell which type of circuit board you might have on your boat. And while it works... as Bill Rouse says it is not to be trusted, or at least not without regular verification.


The TDS sensor consists of a rubber plug with two stainless steel pins into the water flow.  The resistance between those pins is measured.  High resistance is "good" water and low resistance is "bad" water.  So far so good--in theory. 

The problem is that the system is terribly "un-robust," and almost everything that can go wrong with it makes you think that "bad" water is really "good."

The first problem is that the stainless pins corrode over time.  The layer of corrosion on the pins increases the measured resistance making "bad" water look like "good" water to the system.  This was my first clue about the corrosion issues with this sensor. Our reject valve began accepting water immediately on starting the pump, which was a change in behavior, and not what I'd expect. If your system is accepting water from the membranes as soon as you turn it on, check the sensor for corrosion.

Second problem:  The pins can become disconnected.  The system dose not seem to recognize this and just assumes that the infinite resistance it sees means that the water is perfect...

Third problem:  The measured resistance will actually vary depending on how much of the pins are exposed in the water.  The design of the sensor is literally two 3mm SS pins stuck in a rubber plug.  There is nothing that fixes their position.  Deeper immersion of the pins means the water would have to have lower TDS to trigger the switch.

So... Operational lesson always check your water with another meter.

Another lesson, If the pins on the probe corrode, the probe (the rubber plug and two pins) can be purchased from Dessalator US distributers for about US$75. You can also reuse the rubber plug, get 3mm OD stainless rod, cut it to length, and make your own new pins for a few pennies each.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


S/V Rascal

Rick Grimes
 


Hello Amel Friends,

With mixed feelings about selling, we recently asked you to identify anyone you knew who might be interested in buying Rascal.  Happily, we received a number of inquiries and had a contract soon thereafter. 

However, we couldn’t come to agreement on price and the buyer reneged.  So we are happy to keep sailing until a serious buyer comes along—perhaps referred to us by one of you.  Updated details about Rascal can be seen here.  

Rascal is berthed at the Charleston City Marina, SC though we are likely to leave tomorrow morning to flee the wrath of Hurricane Florence!

 

Rick and Linda Grimes

ASM2K #404

 

 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

greatketch@...
 

Some additional thoughts around the Dessalator TDS sensor...  We have one of the older boats where the sensor actually does control the reject valve. I do not know how to tell which type of circuit board you might have on your boat. And while it works... as Bill Rouse says it is not to be trusted, or at least not without regular verification.

The TDS sensor consists of a rubber plug with two stainless steel pins into the water flow.  The resistance between those pins is measured.  High resistance is "good" water and low resistance is "bad" water.  So far so good--in theory. 

The problem is that the system is terribly "un-robust," and almost everything that can go wrong with it makes you think that "bad" water is really "good."

The first problem is that the stainless pins corrode over time.  The layer of corrosion on the pins increases the measured resistance making "bad" water look like "good" water to the system.  This was my first clue about the corrosion issues with this sensor. Our reject valve began accepting water immediately on starting the pump, which was a change in behavior, and not what I'd expect. If your system is accepting water from the membranes as soon as you turn it on, check the sensor for corrosion.

Second problem:  The pins can become disconnected.  The system dose not seem to recognize this and just assumes that the infinite resistance it sees means that the water is perfect...

Third problem:  The measured resistance will actually vary depending on how much of the pins are exposed in the water.  The design of the sensor is literally two 3mm SS pins stuck in a rubber plug.  There is nothing that fixes their position.  Deeper immersion of the pins means the water would have to have lower TDS to trigger the switch.

So... Operational lesson always check your water with another meter.

Another lesson, If the pins on the probe corrode, the probe (the rubber plug and two pins) can be purchased from Dessalator US distributers for about US$75. You can also reuse the rubber plug, get 3mm OD stainless rod, cut it to length, and make your own new pins for a few pennies each.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu pole setup

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 
I’m still somewhat puzzled by the pole setup on my older Maramu 
The set up is definitely a little different I think to the SM so if anyone has experience it would be great to check in on the right track. 


At the bow: 
I assume I attach a block to the most fwd loop on the stantion base  as per far left of photo. Between the clear and the fair lead shown. This block will take the fore guy.  I take this back to a suitable clear in the foredeck perhaps. 





Mid ships :
Down haul- I assume I put a block on the lifting eye/chainplate and take the line to a cleat on the mast



Aft: 
I think I must bring the aftguy in right behind  the swim ladder which runs aft from the stantion attachment shown. 


So I assume I put a block on the rear most stantion attachment point shown in last photo and then bring the aft guy back to a cockpit cleat. 




Many thanks in advance for any tips or corrections !

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


On 17 Aug 2018, at 09:51, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks so much for this detailed and helpful response Alan. Very much appreciated indeed. 


Sadly I don’t have the manuals for the Maramu. 

The previous owner of SeaLove had managed to brake one of the whisker pole harken bell/toggles but said he only ever needed the one pole for his sailing style but as I’m planning to fly twin headsails downwind I have replaced the broken bits and now just trying to figure it all out. 

So it looks like I need to go rope shopping!

The Maramu deck/ cabin line attachment points differ from the SM so I’d be really interested to also hear from anyone who has experience of the Maramu line attachments if they have the time 

The SM double headsail setup with the triple foil luff groove sounds brilliant. I’m surprised other boat makers have not copied this 

All the best
Miles



On 16 Aug 2018, at 22:24, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,

Do you not have the AMEL Manual that came with the boat that explains how to do it ?

Ours is SM2000, but it should be pretty much the same I would think.
'
You should have 6 lines, 2 blue, 2 red and 2 yellow.
With the pole mounted up and folded back, hanging from the rail :
Blue is the foreguy...from the pole end plate that will end up being fwd, forward through the block at the stanchion base at the fwd locker and back to the cleat on the cabin top.
Red is the afterguy ... from the aft pole end plate to the cleat outside the aft cabin.
Yellow is the down haul .... from the bottom pole plate  to the cleat opposite the mast base.
The topping lift is white and already rigged on the mast...take the shackle end to the uppermost plate on the boom end.
All our ropes have tape on them to indicate approximately where they should be tied off.
Take the port side genoa sheet out of the genoa car, take it forward and outside of everything and thread it through the end of the pole and to the block that takes the genoa sheet to the winch .... leave plenty of slack in it.

To launch it all
Lift up the topping lift until the pole end is at about chest height for the person that's going to push it out.
Go forward and take the blue line and 1,2,3 GO....the person at the cockpit pushes the pole out, the one with blue rope pulls like fury as the pole is swung out. Cleat it off quickly once the pole is out and the red line taut.

Now you adjust all the lines to get the pole horizontal. Then you can unfurl the genoa.

Same procedure for the ballooner  which you hoist on its special halyard with its hook on the stbd side slot of the headsail foil The hook secures itself at the top of the foil and the halyard is retrieved. Secure the tack at the deck before pulling out the sheet. Thread the ballooner sheet through the end of the pole through the block to the starboard winch and then push the pole out etc....

Getting the ballooner down involves using the dehooker which is attached to the ballooner halyard and pulled up the third slot in the foil. It releases the ballooner hook and the ballooner luff will collapse down the foil. Pull down the dehooker etc etc....

My manual is about 17Mb...too big for the files section on the forum. I will see if I can scan the relevant pages and post them as a file...pictures are worth a thousand words.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Aha!
So a couple of chain links BETWEEN  Swivel an Anchor?
Kind regards
SM435  VISTA



ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@...
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist



9 sep. 2018 kl. 11:35 skrev Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:


Felskrivning 😊, a couple of chain links, dvs några länkar (ca 1 dm) med kätting. Dvs swiveln ska kunna röra sig obehindrat.

/Ann-Sofie. S/Y Lady Annila, SM232

Skickat från min iPad

9 sep. 2018 kl. 10:18 skrev 'arthur@...' arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Tack. Ann-Sofie!

Vad betyder couple Chain  hur ser den ut?
Med vänlig hälsning, 
Arthur

Skickat från min iPhone

9 sep. 2018 kl. 10:47 skrev Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

After seeing so many boats, not Amels, having big issues with the connection between chain and rope, we would never add rope to the chain. The splice will probably have problems coming through the hole to the anchor box. And if you don't use it it will lay in the bottom of the chain locker getting damp and wet and will,probably not have the brake load you expect.

Arthur, we changed from 75 to 100 m of chain and are very satisfied with that. It has so far, The Med and Carribbean, been enough. When we empited the boat two years ago and last year sailed Portugal-Greece back and return, we realized that we have had far to much load in the front. The boat behaved much better in the waves with less weight in the front.
Swivel, yes! But you must have a couple chain links between the anchor and the swivel to avoid that the swivel brakes. The attachement on the swivel works perfect for movements up and down, but will brake with to much load the sides. If you look on the swivel you will understand what I mean.

/Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998.

Skickat från min iPad

7 sep. 2018 kl. 21:36 skrev Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@....
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist











Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Felskrivning 😊, a couple of chain links, dvs några länkar (ca 1 dm) med kätting. Dvs swiveln ska kunna röra sig obehindrat.

/Ann-Sofie. S/Y Lady Annila, SM232

Skickat från min iPad

9 sep. 2018 kl. 10:18 skrev 'arthur@...' arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Tack. Ann-Sofie!

Vad betyder couple Chain  hur ser den ut?
Med vänlig hälsning, 
Arthur

Skickat från min iPhone

9 sep. 2018 kl. 10:47 skrev Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

After seeing so many boats, not Amels, having big issues with the connection between chain and rope, we would never add rope to the chain. The splice will probably have problems coming through the hole to the anchor box. And if you don't use it it will lay in the bottom of the chain locker getting damp and wet and will,probably not have the brake load you expect.

Arthur, we changed from 75 to 100 m of chain and are very satisfied with that. It has so far, The Med and Carribbean, been enough. When we empited the boat two years ago and last year sailed Portugal-Greece back and return, we realized that we have had far to much load in the front. The boat behaved much better in the waves with less weight in the front.
Swivel, yes! But you must have a couple chain links between the anchor and the swivel to avoid that the swivel brakes. The attachement on the swivel works perfect for movements up and down, but will brake with to much load the sides. If you look on the swivel you will understand what I mean.

/Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998.

Skickat från min iPad

7 sep. 2018 kl. 21:36 skrev Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@....
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

Arthur Sundqvist
 

Tack. Ann-Sofie!
Vad betyder couple Chain  hur ser den ut?
Med vänlig hälsning, 
Arthur

Skickat från min iPhone

9 sep. 2018 kl. 10:47 skrev Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

After seeing so many boats, not Amels, having big issues with the connection between chain and rope, we would never add rope to the chain. The splice will probably have problems coming through the hole to the anchor box. And if you don't use it it will lay in the bottom of the chain locker getting damp and wet and will,probably not have the brake load you expect.

Arthur, we changed from 75 to 100 m of chain and are very satisfied with that. It has so far, The Med and Carribbean, been enough. When we empited the boat two years ago and last year sailed Portugal-Greece back and return, we realized that we have had far to much load in the front. The boat behaved much better in the waves with less weight in the front.
Swivel, yes! But you must have a couple chain links between the anchor and the swivel to avoid that the swivel brakes. The attachement on the swivel works perfect for movements up and down, but will brake with to much load the sides. If you look on the swivel you will understand what I mean.

/Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998.

Skickat från min iPad

7 sep. 2018 kl. 21:36 skrev Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@....
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

After seeing so many boats, not Amels, having big issues with the connection between chain and rope, we would never add rope to the chain. The splice will probably have problems coming through the hole to the anchor box. And if you don't use it it will lay in the bottom of the chain locker getting damp and wet and will,probably not have the brake load you expect.

Arthur, we changed from 75 to 100 m of chain and are very satisfied with that. It has so far, The Med and Carribbean, been enough. When we empited the boat two years ago and last year sailed Portugal-Greece back and return, we realized that we have had far to much load in the front. The boat behaved much better in the waves with less weight in the front.
Swivel, yes! But you must have a couple chain links between the anchor and the swivel to avoid that the swivel brakes. The attachement on the swivel works perfect for movements up and down, but will brake with to much load the sides. If you look on the swivel you will understand what I mean.

/Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila SM232, 1998.

Skickat från min iPad

7 sep. 2018 kl. 21:36 skrev Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@....
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

karkauai
 

Thanks, Craig. Good info.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Sep 8, 2018, at 8:52 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Our 300' of chain has always done the job without adding rope. Deepest anchorage was off Saba Island in 85'. (Arrived in middle of night and didn't spot the many mooring balls - duh!)

I did splice a thimble into one end of the rope so could shackle it to the main chain if needed. We have used the rope rode with 15' of chain on a Fortress anchor as a second anchor, but that was before we dumped the Amel original CQR for a bullet proof Mantus. 

Plus the rope is the right length to make up 2 of the 4 mandatory long dock lines for the Panama Canal. (Keep the middle on the boat and pass up both ends.)

We also frequently use the Fortress off the stern but with a spool of strap webbing (Anchorlina) that lives on the rail aft.

Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@...
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K - Amel 54 WATERMAKER

webercardio <webercardio@...>
 

Bill,
Thank you very much.You made a clear answer. 
We are on the way to Gibraltar and hope to meet you next year.
All the best, keep the group and Amel on this niveau. 
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162 Porto del Este /Andalusia





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SSB ground plate access point?

Mark Erdos
 

Miles,

 

The weatherfax isn’t suppose to be grounded. It is basically a HF receiver. An SSB or HF radio only needs to be grounded when transmitting. You can even receive stuff by putting a wire coat-hanger into the antenna connection.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2018 3:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SSB ground plate access point?

 

 

Hello

It would seem my old Fax-30 weatherfax is not working as it’s aerial is not grounded.

All a bit odd as it came to me this way and I can therefore only assume it never worked for the previous owner.

I think the fix is easy - I just need to ground the aerial

Could any Maramu owners give me any hints as to where I might locate a terminal to connect to the ground plate?

I have an old radar unit that seems to connect to a copper mesh cable behind the chart table. Perhaps this is the place to try but the cable run would be v tricky.

Here’s hoping there is a connection option nearer the stern where my aerial is 🤞

Many thanks in advance

Miles
Maramu 162


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

 

Wolfgang,

It is my understanding that this buffer tank, located in the cockpit portside locker, is continuously rinsing itself as you make water. I believe that the tank as some advantages, but it also has disadvantages. The primary disadvantage is that testing water from the outlet on the control panel is testing water that was previously made, not water being made now. The primary advantage is good in theory. It is that if the watermaker experiences some problem and starts making high salinity water, the TDS in-line sensor will shut down the watermaker and the high salinity water will be trapped in the 20 liter tank without contaminating the main tank. Since there is no information on this 20 liter tank available from Dessalator, I believe that it was an Amel innovation. Be sure to drain the buffer tank when winterizing, and/or leaving the boat for longer than 30 days.

Some of us have been around long enough to know for certain to NOT trust the Dessalator in-line TDS sensor system. In fact, an entire production run of the Dessalator PCB,s were designed to trick the user into believing the sensor worked, when in fact it wasn't even wired into the shutdown hardware/software of the PCB. (Thanks to Gary Silver, who discovered this). I give Dessalator the benefit of doubt that this "trick" was crafted by their logic and PCB subcontractor. But, on the other hand, Dessalator chose to basically ignore this and not recall those PCBs. 

For SM owners: I do not believe any D160's installed in SMs have this 20 liter tank, but I could be wrong. It is possible some late model SMs also have the 20l buffer tank.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Sat, Sep 8, 2018 at 1:01 PM webercardio webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, 
On Amel 54 the watermaker fills up 20? Liter Tank before the water goes to the watertank. 
This water comes out of the tap on the dessalator board. 
When I was in Hyeres I was asked if I ever cleaned this Tank.
Reguarly I let it get empty. As this is the drinkingwatertank perhaps should I flush it backwards with waterdesinfection? 
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162






SSB ground plate access point?

smiles bernard
 

Hello

It would seem my old Fax-30 weatherfax is not working as it’s aerial is not grounded.

All a bit odd as it came to me this way and I can therefore only assume it never worked for the previous owner.

I think the fix is easy - I just need to ground the aerial

Could any Maramu owners give me any hints as to where I might locate a terminal to connect to the ground plate?

I have an old radar unit that seems to connect to a copper mesh cable behind the chart table. Perhaps this is the place to try but the cable run would be v tricky.

Here’s hoping there is a connection option nearer the stern where my aerial is 🤞


Many thanks in advance

Miles
Maramu 162


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

webercardio <webercardio@...>
 

Hi, 
On Amel 54 the watermaker fills up 20? Liter Tank before the water goes to the watertank. 
This water comes out of the tap on the dessalator board. 
When I was in Hyeres I was asked if I ever cleaned this Tank.
Reguarly I let it get empty. As this is the drinkingwatertank perhaps should I flush it backwards with waterdesinfection? 
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

karkauai
 

Craig’s suggestion of using 12-Plait looks like a great idea.  The chain-to-rode splice should be much less bulky.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

Kent,

 

Very good idea. Let me know how it goes and if it fits through the hawsepipe.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 3:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

 

 

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent

S/V Kristy

SM 243


On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???

And swivel or no swivel??

 

arthur

SM 435  Vista  

 

 

 

 

 

ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@...
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the t odo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

Craig Briggs
 

Right, Bill, plus the crew pushing the pole and the crew taking in the foreguy can be just one person. Same with taking the pole in, when one person can keep tension on the line and catch the pole as it comes back.
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---I@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Having tried it both ways, we concluded using the block and running back to the cleat on the mid deck was the far easier approach to launching the pole.  Mainly because the crew member pushing the pole out and the crew taking up on the foreguy are close to each other and communication and timing is easier.  

Of course, either approach would work.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchorchain, length

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent,

Our 300' of chain has always done the job without adding rope. Deepest anchorage was off Saba Island in 85'. (Arrived in middle of night and didn't spot the many mooring balls - duh!)

I did splice a thimble into one end of the rope so could shackle it to the main chain if needed. We have used the rope rode with 15' of chain on a Fortress anchor as a second anchor, but that was before we dumped the Amel original CQR for a bullet proof Mantus. 

Plus the rope is the right length to make up 2 of the 4 mandatory long dock lines for the Panama Canal. (Keep the middle on the boat and pass up both ends.)

We also frequently use the Fortress off the stern but with a spool of strap webbing (Anchorlina) that lives on the rail aft.

Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Interesting, thanks Craig.  I’ll have to read up on 12 plait.  Hmmm, so you kept it in the bow locker? Not spliced to the chain?  If so, what was your method of switching to rope rode when your chain wasn’t long enough.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:08 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

When we set off back at the turn of the century (2000), Pam Wall, then at West Marine, suggested 12 plait for a supplemental rode, which is far easier to manage than 3-strand.  What a great suggestion it turned out to be - you can just flake it into the bow locker and it never tangles or forms hockles. Ours is 3/4" which would probably do just fine for your SM at 21K lbs breaking strength. Far better than 3-strand. Easy to do a chain-to-rope splice, too. 
C U in St Michaels next month!
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

I have100m which has been more than enough for the East Coast USA and Caribbean.  Once in the S Pacific will be routinely anchoring in 35-45m.  You can’t put enough chain for that in your bow locker, too heavy.  I will add another 80m of one inch nylon three-strand for those deep anchorage’s, assuming I can make a rode-to-chain splice that will go through the hawsepipe.  If it won’t,  I’ll try 7/8” nylon rode, but don’t think I’d be comfortable with anything less than that.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Sep 6, 2018, at 11:22 AM, Arthur Sundqvist arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What is the best length for the standard anchor chain 10mm ISO for the Super Maramu?

Is 125m ok or is that to much???
And swivel or no swivel??

arthur
SM 435  Vista  





ARTHUR SUNDQVIST 
Timmermansgränd 3
11865 Stockholm
Sweden

Arthur Sundqvist






Ring    +46-(0)708-13 27 95
Maila    arthur@...
Besök   http://www.arthur-sundqvist.se
Skype   artsunkist




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after

Miles
 

Hello Ken,
Your list is a good contribution to the group. I wish that I had know about the fresh water flushing sooner.

About your pool: the line (originally blue and stretchy ) should go around a block at the bow and back to the deck cleat. This makes it possible for one person to push the pool out and pull it forward at the same time. Importantly, the extra length of a stretchy line allows the pool to collapse against the side of the boat instead of maybe breaking if you dip it into the water or back wind it.

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm 216, Newport, RI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K

Olaf Bauer MIA-AMARA at Yahoo <olaf_renos@...>
 

Hello Eric,



The same when the blue line is running over the fore cleat. Did that many times on my Santorin as a single handed sailor. Very easy and could be handed by one person.



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: 07 September 2018 23:57
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K






When we were at Amel taking delivery of Kimberite, Olivier showed us to use a block on the foredeck and run the blue line back the the cleat forward of the dodger.



He showed us to hang the pole off the rail with the attached hook and set the red, yellow and white lines on the pole and cleats. The blue line ran from the pole to the block and then to the cleat. Having the blue line aft allows one person to push the pole outboard and pull the blue line at the same time. In this way one person can then tie off the blue line at the marked portion at the cleat and then just raise the topping lift. You are then done. Very simple for one person.

Fair Winds,

eric

SM376 Kimberlite

On Fri, Sep 07, 2018 at 09:22 PM, 'Olaf Bauer MIA-AMARA at Yahoo' olaf_renos@yahoo.com <mailto:olaf_renos@yahoo.com> [amelyachtowners] wrote:



I did it the same way on my previous AMEL, a Santorin. For me it was one good reason to do so: nothing is in the way hen you have to go around on the front deck.



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: 07 September 2018 16:56
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K





The blue line was connected where JP, the previous owner, taught me. I'm no expert, but JP owned Aquarius since new, and did as I was told. :)



On Friday, September 7, 2018 1:29 PM, "eric kimberlite@optonline.net <mailto:kimberlite@optonline.net> [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> > wrote:





Hi Ken,

I was looking at your trip into Santa Marta.

I noticed in your video that you have the foreguy to the pole (blue) connected to a forward cleat. Is there some reason that you do not run it through a block at the rail and aft to a cleat in front of the dodger?

Fair Winds,

eric

SM 376 Kimberlite




On Fri, Sep 07, 2018 at 04:13 PM, Ken Powers sailingaquarius@yahoo.com <mailto:sailingaquarius@yahoo.com> [amelyachtowners] wrote:



Olaf,



Hope the list helps you, and all others that own SM's. We all want every SM maintained well, as it will make them all worth more in the future!!!



Check out our youtube channel "Sailing Aquarius Around the World". We have a Super Maramu tour, and Choosing Boat Batteries, and next Thursday we will release the day to day maintenance aboard Aquarius video.



If you would like our lists, let me know... info@sailingaquarius do t co m



Best,



Ken Powers

SM2K #262

Currently in Tahaa in the Society Islands



On Monday, September 3, 2018 1:46 PM, "'Olaf Bauer MIA-AMARA at Yahoo' olaf_renos@yahoo.com <mailto:olaf_renos@yahoo.com> [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> > wrote:





Hi Ken,



Thanks so much for your list.



Appreciate is very



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: 02 September 2018 15:59
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What are the todo’s before and after haulot of a SM2K





If you are leaving the boat on the hard for a while here is a list you may want to think about:







Sea Water Valves

1. Close all sea water valves. There are two in the engine room.

2. Put a little vegetable oil in the valves and work them. Make sure

you run the engines for at least 1 hour before running the water

maker when you return. No oil should be introduced to water maker.

Salt Water Removal

1. Run the engine and Generator for 5 minutes with fresh water..
2. Run the air conditioners with fresh water for 5 minutes.
3. Flush the Toilets with fresh water from the engine room.
4. Run Fresh water through the anchor washClean bilge



Bilge

1. Clean bilge

2. Test the bilge pump

3. Test the bilge pump alarm.





Watermaker

1. Back flush the water maker membranes.
2. Pickle if required. (or - Find someone to back-flush every week for 10 minutes)



Electrical

1. Turn off all the 24V equipment not to be used.

2. Turn off fresh water pump.

3. Circuit breakers in wet locker to be off.

4. Check current to see if charging or discharging the batteries

5. Turn off inverter

6. Bow Thruster locked

7. Clean out refrigerators



On Deck

1. Loosen Halyards.

2. Put on Covers as required.

3. Outboard put away and run with fresh water until all gas is burned out of the carburetor..

4. Turn off gas bottle valve in trunk.

5. Take down flags as required

6. Lock and remove engine key.

7.. Lock all storage lockers. (From inside Aquarius)

8. Shut and lock windows/hatches as required. (anywhere water can get in?)

Last - Lock cockpit door.



Leaving Aquarius on a mooring ball, or at anchor (Not Recommended)

1. Close the valves to water tight doors.

2. Close water tight doors.



Leaving Aquarius for more than a few weeks:



1. Try to have an air conditioner (or De-Humidifier) running if in a humid climate.

2. Have someone trust worthy to watch over Aquarius.

a. Membranes must be flushed every week for 10 minutes.

b. Check engine room for any leaks or something wrong.

c. Should check the battery level in the morning before 9AM, if below 25V

at anytime, contact owner.







On Sunday, September 2, 2018 11:13 AM, "olaf_renos@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <mailto:olaf_renos@yahoo.com%20[amelyachtowners]> " <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> > wrote:





Hello AMELians,



In two weeks my SM2K will be haul out. For me it is the first time of a haul out with a SM2K..

What would you suggest to do before and (directly) after haul out?



That’s my current list:



Before haul out

- Empty the black water tanks and fill up with 0.5 Ltr vegetable oil. Open and close shortly the valves.



After haulout

- Flush the Main engine, the generator and the AC’s with fresh water.





What else?



Thanks so much in advance.



Fair winds

Olaf



S/V Sayonara II, SM2K 392

currently in Martinique

17101 - 17120 of 59133