Date   

Re: Winter location Greek Ionian

Dean Gillies
 

Mohammad,
We also give a vote to Cleopatra Marina near Preveza for winter storage. We have wintered our boats there for 3 seasons and are very happy with the service and facilities. They are quite familiar with Amel 54.
Cheers
Dean and Jan
SY Stella
Amel 54 #154


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Winter location Greek Ionian

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks every one for the replies.

Respectfully;
Mohammad

On Sep 25, 2018, at 9:42 PM, Markus scrapp@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, 
I keep my boat in KALAMATA.
Maybe it is not quite Ionian but very close to.
It is  very quiet place, some work place avaliable in marina.
KTel bus service avalible almost every hour to Athens. 2,5hour.
http://www.medmarinas.com/homepage.asp?ITMID=2
Brgds
Marek

Od: "'Mohammad Shirloo' mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com>
Do: amelyachtowners@...;
Wysłane: 17:24 Wtorek 2018-09-25
Temat: [Amel Yacht Owners] Winter location Greek Ionian



 

Hi everyone;

We are looking at leaving our boat in the Greek Ionian for this winter. We would appreciate all input about possible locations. We will not be wintering on board, so we are mainly looking for a safe, secure and reasonable location. It would be nice to have some services available but it is not critical.

Thanks in advance.

Respectfully;

Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
B&B Kokomo




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Interior wood quality

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Great!  Sorry for the delayed response, we have been on the move headed South down the Tunisian coast.

   If you have any problems getting the new varnish to blend in or whatever we are glad to share our techniques.  

   I really appreciate your post on the bow thruster wiring upgrades that you did.  I will closely duplicate your efforts on Sueno as soon as I can get to that task.   In the meantime, we always remove the chain from the gypsy to at least reduce one of the concerns with the original setup.

Best,

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Hammamet, Tunisia


Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 9/26/18 01:21 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Interior wood quality

 

James,


Thanks--exactly what I was looking for.  I have had a lot of practice with a cabinet scraper which will transfer well.

We see very much what you describe with the fading of the wood around the port lights.  We'd like to keep everything covered more, but we live on the boat full time so that is not always possible.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] run away windlass

karkauai
 

Thanks for the link to your forepeak wiring changes.  That's now on my ever-increasing list of things to do.  I will also put a breaker or fuse in the power line to the bow thruster.  I'm interested to see your setup.
See you soon at the Rendezvous.
Kent



From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] run away windlass

 
Kent,

There is a write up of the wiring work I did on the windlass here:  https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/windlass-wiring/  I haven't written up the changes I made to the sheet winch wiring yet, but it is on my to-do list :-)

The previous owner of Harmonie protected the bow thruster wiring by putting 125 amp terminal fuses on each of the four 24V battery positive terminals.  When I upgraded the battery bank, the new batteries were just a tiny bit higher, and the terminal fuses no longer fit under the cover. 

I replaced them with a single 500 amp fuse in the main battery wire before the shut down switches.  That would blow before the cables to the windlass or the engine room melted down from a short somewhere.

There is no power supply switch on the thruster, other than the main power switch.  Not a perfect solution, but I'll live with it.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] model number of CAT pump on watermaker.

eric freedman
 

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the info.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2018 2:18 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] model number of CAT pump on watermaker.

 

 

Hi Eric,

it is indeed a model 277. Here is the Dessalator reference, but I know it will me much cheaper in the US.  Complete pump head TET_POMPCAT277_COMP
1 Piece 1 290,65 1 290,65 20,0

I just had mine fail when the heads of two of the four bolts that hold the pump head to the body sheared off. That's stainless for you. When I queried Dessalator about it they blamed it on the vibration of the ship!! My unit had 903 hours on it.

I would strongly advise that these bolts are changed every 700 hours to avoid the expense of a pump rebuild or replacement.

There is a number on the pump body that I can get you tomorrow if you wish.

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece

 

On 21/09/2018 05:58, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 




 

Does anyone know the model number of the Cat pump on the 160 lph watermaker?

It was suggested it is model 277.

Fair Winds,

eric

SM 376 Kimberlite

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

Ian Shepherd
 

Jose,

I had a similar problem some years back. The compressor ran but the fan didn't. The advice I got was that it was a problem within the controller (assuming you have applied 24V to the fan and checked it is OK?).

But you don't need to replace the controller. Simply connect the fan wires to 24V on the unit and you will be OK. Yes the fan will always be running when the fridge is powered on, but it will only consume milliamps. Mine has been running like this for several years now without any problem. Save the $200 for when the controller no longer works at all.

This workaround advice was given to me by a refrigeration engineer.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


On 28/09/2018 21:56, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Jose,

Amel installed a 2-speed switch for fan speed control. I believe you may be talking about that switch. Possibly there is something wrong with the switch, the switch was replaced by the wrong type of switch, or there is something wrong with the fan. If the fan must work correctly, and the condenser must be free of dust for the refrigerator to work correctly.

The Danfoss is the compressor controller. It is a common part on most marine refrigerators. It can cause the start issues you have. I had 3 refrigeration units on BeBe #387 and always had a spare Danfoss to troubleshoot with. It costs about 200 euro.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 1:29 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill,


My Frigoboat has a Danfoss control 102N4030 which runs the compressor and the fan 
There is a switch with a red light, which seems to control the fan.  When I turned down such a switch down the compressor started, and the freezer is now getting cold but the fan is not running.

Do you know what for is the switch?  Could it be that something is wrong with the control?

I agree that the refrigerator is old, but my experience is those older refrigerators can last forever.  My grandmother refrigerator is still running after more than 60 years of use ;).


Jose



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problem

karkauai
 

Mark, when I repowered, i had it set up so that the battery negative is only connected to the engine block when the key is turned to “glow”, “start”, and when I push the “Stop” button.  If it were connected when the key is in the “on” position, the battery would be connected to the bonding system when ever the engine is running.


Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Sep 28, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Cool, Mark.  That’s a great little gadget!

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Sep 27, 2018, at 7:48 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

It is going to be a problem in one of two areas. The starter or the panel (fuse or key switch). This is assuming you have already checked the engine start battery? If you haven’t checked the battery, jump if from one of the house batteries. Unless you have a good load tester, the battery may be bad but still test okay. Easiest way to find out is to jump it.

 

Buy a heavy duty one of these (any good auto parts store will have one): https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80586-Remote-Starter/dp/B00OPVYHZ4/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OPVYHZ4&pd_rd_r=08c6ff7b-c2ad-11e8-a3f5-a953cb310f5f&pd_rd_w=hNR7v&pd_rd_wg=tTgxs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=HB14K7VGEC8X04D5100P&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=HB14K7VGEC8X04D5100P

 

Connect this to the starter. Be VERY careful to connect it to the correct terminals (Not the +\-) It connects to the Pos and the S (small) terminal on the starter. Turn the ignition on. Push the button. If the engine starts the problem is in the panel. If the engine doesn’t start, it is the starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP6PbKhEzjU . this little switch basically bypasses the panel and allows you to isolate the problem.

 

Some people will make the connecting across the starters Pos and S terminals with a screw driver to start the engine. I think this is dangerous and would never recommend it unless it was a last resort. And, you will ruin a perfectly good screwdriver in the process.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problem

 

 

Hi all. My Yanmar 4JH4HTE 110 HP has been flawless for 5 years except for a starter that had to be replaced last year. When I had to move Kristy from a slip at the boat yard to the travel lift, she wouldn’t start.

There is no power getting to the starter. I hear the floating ground solenoid click when I push the stop button and turn the key to the glow plug position, but not when I turn the key to “Start”. I am getting power at the 12v hubs on the forward bulkhead of the engine room.

I’m thinking it’s probably the key switch on the Yanmar panel, but wondered if a bad diode in the floating ground setup could keep it from starting, too. Any other ideas?
I doubt the mechanic here will have a clue about how the floating ground works.

Also, my engine hour meter seems to be counting hours, but the display only comes on intermittently. I’m guessing there’s a loose wire but haven’t found it yet. Could this be connected somehow?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
StMichaels/Yacht Maintenance, Cambridge, MD
Kristy


Re: Yanmar starting problem

SV Perigee
 

Hi Mark,

Good to know that your found the cause.  And a simple one at that.  Whew.

+++
All,

I had a similar situation, no go on the YANMAR, for no apparent reason.

It turned out to be the isolating solenoid on the 12V -ve side was sticking.  Easily overcome, as the solenoid has a manual override - a rubber bell housing covers one end of the solenoid, allowing you to manually activate the solenoid with the press of a finger.  This does however require one person in the engine room, and one at the helm - that is, unless you have one of those snazzy by-pass do-dads as elsewhere recommended.  Once the solenoid was activated manually a few times, it would then work by itself when the start circuit was activated - and a judicious squirt of CorrosionX has seen no further problems in this area (thus far).

David
  Perigee, SM#396
    Curaçao, about to set course
      tomorrow for Bonaire




 


Amel Original 110V to 220V Transformer available...

greatketch@...
 

We have an unusual offering…unique maybe!


We have upgraded our electrical system to use a full blown isolation transformer, and have left over the original, Amel installed, 110V to 220V 6300 watt transformer.  Our boat was one of the first that Amel fully tricked out for the North American market with both 110V and 220V throughout the boat. 

This takes single phase 110V power and steps it up to single phase 220V.  It is not an isolation transformer.  It does supply real single phase power, not the split phase you get from a 50Amp 125/150 outlet. This is important for older boats that have single pole breakers in the AC distribution panel.

It is as simple a piece of equipment as you can find, just copper coils around an iron core.  No control circuits, or anything else to go bad.  It has functioned flawlessly since it was installed in La Rochelle in 1996. It is rated for almost twice as much power as you can put through it, so it runs cooler than designed, and should last almost forever.  

Installation is simple, connect a 110V shore power connection and lead the output to the 220V panel. We can show you some details about exactly how Amel did it.

Downside:  It is very HEAVY--80 to 100lbs (40 to 50 kgs) so it is not easily shippable.

US$200 and it's yours!  Pick it up in Annapolis now, or Ft Lauderdale in November, or anywhere in between you can convince us makes a nice stop!  

Send me an email if you are interested. greatketch (at) yahoo (dot) com  Pictures and information available.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problem

karkauai
 

Cool, Mark.  That’s a great little gadget!

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Sep 27, 2018, at 7:48 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

It is going to be a problem in one of two areas. The starter or the panel (fuse or key switch). This is assuming you have already checked the engine start battery? If you haven’t checked the battery, jump if from one of the house batteries. Unless you have a good load tester, the battery may be bad but still test okay. Easiest way to find out is to jump it.

 

Buy a heavy duty one of these (any good auto parts store will have one): https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80586-Remote-Starter/dp/B00OPVYHZ4/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OPVYHZ4&pd_rd_r=08c6ff7b-c2ad-11e8-a3f5-a953cb310f5f&pd_rd_w=hNR7v&pd_rd_wg=tTgxs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=HB14K7VGEC8X04D5100P&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=HB14K7VGEC8X04D5100P

 

Connect this to the starter. Be VERY careful to connect it to the correct terminals (Not the +\-) It connects to the Pos and the S (small) terminal on the starter. Turn the ignition on. Push the button. If the engine starts the problem is in the panel. If the engine doesn’t start, it is the starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP6PbKhEzjU . this little switch basically bypasses the panel and allows you to isolate the problem.

 

Some people will make the connecting across the starters Pos and S terminals with a screw driver to start the engine. I think this is dangerous and would never recommend it unless it was a last resort. And, you will ruin a perfectly good screwdriver in the process.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar starting problem

 

 

Hi all. My Yanmar 4JH4HTE 110 HP has been flawless for 5 years except for a starter that had to be replaced last year. When I had to move Kristy from a slip at the boat yard to the travel lift, she wouldn’t start.

There is no power getting to the starter. I hear the floating ground solenoid click when I push the stop button and turn the key to the glow plug position, but not when I turn the key to “Start”. I am getting power at the 12v hubs on the forward bulkhead of the engine room.

I’m thinking it’s probably the key switch on the Yanmar panel, but wondered if a bad diode in the floating ground setup could keep it from starting, too. Any other ideas?
I doubt the mechanic here will have a clue about how the floating ground works.

Also, my engine hour meter seems to be counting hours, but the display only comes on intermittently. I’m guessing there’s a loose wire but haven’t found it yet. Could this be connected somehow?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
StMichaels/Yacht Maintenance, Cambridge, MD
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

michael winand
 

Jose
You can try penguin refigeration in the Uk. They also have some good video episodes to diagnose these  refigeration systems. 

On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 at 6:23, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Jose, Yes:

Coastal Climate Control, Inc.
4831 Tesla Dr, Suite H
Bowie MD 20715
USA Phone: 301-352-5738
info@...

Good Luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 2:20 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill, 

Yes, that is the switch.  I will check the switch because it worked before and I never changed it.  It could be bad and extragely the red light for the low speed is not turning on.   Your suggestion of buying a control is a very good one and, for the price currency, and my failure to find one in the US, it must be available in Europe only.   Do you know if there is a distributor in the USA?  If not the erupean would do.,

Thanks a lot for the suggestions


Jose


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

 

Jose, Yes:

Coastal Climate Control, Inc.
4831 Tesla Dr, Suite H
Bowie MD 20715
USA Phone: 301-352-5738
info@...

Good Luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 2:20 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill, 

Yes, that is the switch.  I will check the switch because it worked before and I never changed it.  It could be bad and extragely the red light for the low speed is not turning on.   Your suggestion of buying a control is a very good one and, for the price currency, and my failure to find one in the US, it must be available in Europe only.   Do you know if there is a distributor in the USA?  If not the erupean would do.,

Thanks a lot for the suggestions


Jose


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

Jose Venegas
 

Bill, 
Yes, that is the switch.  I will check the switch because it worked before and I never changed it.  It could be bad and extragely the red light for the low speed is not turning on.   Your suggestion of buying a control is a very good one and, for the price currency, and my failure to find one in the US, it must be available in Europe only.   Do you know if there is a distributor in the USA?  If not the erupean would do.,

Thanks a lot for the suggestions


Jose


Atlantic Tower Arch for 46’ Maramu

mr_hermanns
 

Ok Amel Team,

I bit the bullet and took advantage of Atlantic Towers pre boat show discount of 25% and going to get the first Arch made for the earlier Maramu. Most of you have seen the Atlantic Tower on countless SM’s, but stoked to get one done for the non-super nomenckature’d earlier model of the Maramu (lol).

Hit me up if you have any questions!

**Also**: if the owner of a Santorin who ironically recently ordered one too is on here, hit me up...Shelley said you made a bunch of modifications to the original specs and would love to learn more!

-Jer


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

 

Jose,

Amel installed a 2-speed switch for fan speed control. I believe you may be talking about that switch. Possibly there is something wrong with the switch, the switch was replaced by the wrong type of switch, or there is something wrong with the fan. If the fan must work correctly, and the condenser must be free of dust for the refrigerator to work correctly.

The Danfoss is the compressor controller. It is a common part on most marine refrigerators. It can cause the start issues you have. I had 3 refrigeration units on BeBe #387 and always had a spare Danfoss to troubleshoot with. It costs about 200 euro.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 1:29 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill,


My Frigoboat has a Danfoss control 102N4030 which runs the compressor and the fan 
There is a switch with a red light, which seems to control the fan.  When I turned down such a switch down the compressor started, and the freezer is now getting cold but the fan is not running.

Do you know what for is the switch?  Could it be that something is wrong with the control?

I agree that the refrigerator is old, but my experience is those older refrigerators can last forever.  My grandmother refrigerator is still running after more than 60 years of use ;).


Jose


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Coupling Failure [2 Attachments]

Porter McRoberts
 

What’s amazing to me is how supportive Amel: Thierry and Maud are. 
Most excellent representation for a great company. 


On Sep 28, 2018, at 12:39 PM, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

yes of course it was modified by Amel.I had to wait a day for a new batch of couplings to come back from their sub-contractor who does the machining. According to Maud all Vetus couplings are modified before they sell them to their customers, at least for Super Maramu's. Maybe earlier models require something different?

It's still too bloody tight though! The mod is I believe, done to match the shaft on the C-Drive.

Sorry I could not reply earlier but the island's internet has been down most of the day.

Regards

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Leros


On 27/09/2018 17:01, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
Ian,

Did you see the PDF I sent you? It clearly shows the machining that Amel normally does to the Vetus coupling before installation. Amel does this to expedite the installation. Was your coupling machined as pictured in the PDF? The reason I am asking is that I think we all want to know, if when ordering the Vetus coupling from Amel, do we need to specify this Amel-Modification in order to have a smooth installation????




Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 8:15 AM Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind
died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly
set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the
monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later
there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting
wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I
dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the
blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden
plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth
supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at
the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the
two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output
of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks
jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation
these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and
sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out
of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I
never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure.
Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros
and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later
I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I
made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern
the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the
coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no
better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in
moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would
now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a
strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All
this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I
suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough
space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm
on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it'
finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were
in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The
bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose
or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were
broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional
vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when
clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be
examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from
Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would
also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did
a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far
too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include
the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The
Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in
a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too
crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the
modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way
the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though
the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install
it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a
push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive
shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand
fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy
to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too
tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up
breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my
bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to
separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and
an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every
confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly,
the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances
need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare
maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus
coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are
NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have
a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good
company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be
worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them
in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive,
be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Vetus Coupling Failure

Ian Shepherd
 


Yes Alan you are right. I always use Loctite on every nut on the boat, preferring 270 on the critical ones. Even if the nuts don't come loose, the bolts will stretch over time. I use the engine very little but I will make a note to check those bolts at the beginning of each month.

Best regards

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece


On 28/09/2018 00:02, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Those coupling bolts need checking on a regular basis.

I have heard of numerous "bolt shearing" episodes over the years and I'm sure they have all been caused by the bolts coming loose.
There are discussions on the forum about this.
I check the bolt tightness about once every month, and especially after a long session of motoring.
Even with Nyloc nuts they come loose.
At the suggestion of another forum member we now have Loctitie Thread Lock on the bolts as well....we'll see how that goes.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Bonne Anse



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vetus Coupling Failure

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Eric,

thanks for the tip. My worry about your method is that the heads of the bolts will be compressing the threaded clamp on the face of the C-Drive and maybe might even crack it? It seems risky to me, especially considering how tight my coupling was. I seem to remember you cursing how long it took even with the suggested method. Nice idea though.

Yes I have already obtained a good hand fit by rubbing down the C-Drive shaft a few thou with wet and dry. I am still nursing the blisters on the palm of my hand!

I would rather put thread on the each end of a steel bar than use threaded rod. That way the inside of the holes in the aluminium casings with not be subject to abrasion from the threads. As my bow thruster experienced!

Regards

Ian SM2K 414 CRusader


On 28/09/2018 05:27, eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
The easiest way to separate the Vetus coupling from the C drive is to use a  few bolts cut down to exactly the size of the gap. Put three of these around the gap and use a nut on the end of the bolt and open it up with 2 wrenches to open up the space. It is only  or 5 mm. With a series of longer and longer bolts you will loosen up the coupling.

When you receive the coupling have a machine shot turn the coupling and remove a few thousands of an inch of the inside diameter. It will then be a tight slip fit, add Never Seeze and it will come apart easily next time.

With respect the the coupling bolts cut down threaded rod to the desired length and put a nylock with red locktite on it. 

Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite


On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 08:23 AM, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Whilst on passage from Naxos Greece to Didim Turkey, the following wind
died to such a level that I had to start my Yanmar engine. I smoothly
set 1700 rpm which is my normal maximum other than when doing the
monthly turbo clean as recommended by Amel. About half an hour later
there was a thumping sound  which at first I thought was a rope getting
wrapped around the prop. But the engine did not stall, so unlikely. I
dived over the side and had a look. No rope, net etc and no marks on the
blades.

The Vetus coupling on my boat is somewhat obscured by by the wooden
plinth that sits on the top of the C-Drive support frame. The plinth
supports the water tank that feeds fresh water to my toilets. Looking at
the coupling closely, it was apparent that all four bolts that hold the
two halves of the casing together and to the drive flange on the output
of the gearbox, had sheared. The thumping sound was the rubber blocks
jumping out of their recesses in the casing. On the Yanmar installation
these bolts cannot be replaced without moving the entire engine aft and
sliding the coupling away from the C-Drive, so an at sea repair was out
of the question. I am told that the Volvo installation is easier, but I
never had to do this on my previous boat so I don't know for sure.
Fortunately the wind freshened late in the day and I diverted to Leros
and managed to sail into the anchorage during the night. Two days later
I was towed into Leros marina, where I still am eleven days later.

Not having good enough tools or manpower to move the engine myself, I
made use of the marina mechanics. At the same time I read with concern
the dreadful experiences of Craig and Eric when they tried to remove the
coupling from the C-Drive input shaft. My mechanics experience was no
better. After working on the problem for two days they had succeeded in
moving the shafts apart by no more than 5mm. They said that they would
now have to remove the entire engine to gain enough access to get a
strong enough puller on the job to free the Vetus from the C-Drive. All
this at €50/hour for the labour and €60 per day for the marina. I
suggested they might remove the gearbox from the engine to create enough
space, which they did. Using a heavy duty puller and a 4 foot lever arm
on the compression bolt spanner, the 'Bloody Vetus as Eric named it'
finally came off.

Examining the coupling, the casings looked OK and the rubber blocks were
in not bad shape for an age of 15 years according to the mechanics. The
bolts did not all fail at once, and probably failed due to working loose
or stretching over time. Despite the fact that maybe three bolts were
broken before the final breakdown, there was no noticeable additional
vibration in the transmission even at 3000 rpm that I had used when
clearing the turbo two weeks earlier. Clearly these bolts need to be
examined and checked for tightness on a regular basis.

As the cost of a new coupling was only €297 plus tax and shipping from
Amel, I decided to replace the entire unit for peace of mind. We would
also not have to modify the shaft ourselves to fit the C-Drive. Maud did
a super job with FedEx as far as Athens, but the local courier took far
too long to get the part to Leros. Unfortunately Maud forgot to include
the 4 bolts and nuts, and these are now on the way courtesy of Amel. The
Vetus agent in Greece has no stock! Maybe we could find similar bolts in
a garage for example, but the quality would be uncertain and this is too
crucial an item to risk your boat for.

So why is the coupling to difficult to remove? Like Eric found, the
modified shaft is simply machined to too tight a fit. There is no way
the new coupling will slide on the C-Drive shaft as it comes even though
the C-Drive shaft is in good condition. It would need a press to install
it. It's a keyed fitting and not an interference fit so it should be a
push fit. Like Eric, I have spent considerable time reducing the C-Drive
shaft diameter with wet and dry until the new coupling is a snug hand
fit. Assembled with Corrosion Block grease, next time it should be easy
to remove.

It's the same story with the outhaul capstan drive shaft. It's made too
tight. If you rub it down till it slides in easily, you will not end up
breaking your gearbox trying to remove it. The same again for my
bowthruster tube to drive motor housing. It used to be a devil to
separate. Having opened up the motor recess slightly with a Dremel and
an abrasive wheel, it is no longer a problem. Whilst I have every
confidence in Amel's sub contractors following Amel's design exactly,
the fact is in the corrosive real world we operate in, the tolerances
need to be made greater if we are to avoid going through nightmare
maintenance issues such as these.

Finally, I should point out that unbelievably when you buy a Vetus
coupling from Vetus, the bolts that hold the dammed thing together are
NOT included! You will need to order a SET64 kit separately if you have
a 4" gearbox flange. A SET65 if you have a 5" one. Amel, being a good
company DO include these bolts when you buy from them, but it may be
worthwhile reminding them at order time to make sure they include them
in the box.

To anyone contemplating removing their Vetus coupling from the C-Drive,
be prepared for a difficult time.

Regards and good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Leros Greece



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Unexplained Explosion On Board

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Hajo,

as you are a stones throw away, did you have a problem too the other afternoon?

Come over sometime.

Ian B16


On 28/09/2018 08:56, Amw amw08@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
We had the problem with polarity here in Greece in Thessaloniki, in Lesbos and after one day here in Leros.

Obviously every Marina here in Greece has a different polarity !


Hajo
SM 150 Serafine
Leros Greece



Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 26.09.2018 um 17:17 schrieb greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Ian,


Are the breakers on your 220V panel double pole breakers?  or single pole?

Is it possible that the shore power polarity was reversed? 

Did anyone else on the dock have a problem?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Galley Refrigerator Malfunction

Jose Venegas
 

Thank you Bill,

My Frigoboat has a Danfoss control 102N4030 which runs the compressor and the fan 
There is a switch with a red light, which seems to control the fan.  When I turned down such a switch down the compressor started, and the freezer is now getting cold but the fan is not running.

Do you know what for is the switch?  Could it be that something is wrong with the control?

I agree that the refrigerator is old, but my experience is those older refrigerators can last forever.  My grandmother refrigerator is still running after more than 60 years of use ;).


Jose