Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Priming Fresh water pump

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi again,

Thanks for the advice, Bill

The issue is resolved for now. We managed to prime the pump from a jerrycan and everything seems fine now. 

So if we imagine that there is a suction line air leak, shouldn’t it de-prime as a result and cause an issue no matter what the level in the tank? There is no (working) foot valve on the suction line as far as I could see sucking on it. 

On a side note, should there be a mechanism preventing the pump from running when the tank is empty? I’m pleasantly surprised it didn’t die running empty for a few hours but I can’t imagine that it does it any good. 

Lesson learnt: the fresh water pump gets switched off anytime we are off the boat. 


Thanks again!

Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Curaçao 


On Wed, 10 Oct 2018 at 09:50, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

That sounds like bad news (like a somehow broken pump) because i would expect a suction side air leak to have caused problems before we got into the empty tank situation?

Is there a foot valve on the suction line side in the tank to keep it primed ? Is that what you call the in-line one way valve?

I’ll investigate the hoses and try the pump on its own. 

Thanks
Thomas


On Wed, 10 Oct 2018 at 09:19, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

It is self priming. 

Self priming pumps don't prime if there is a suction-side air leak. Maybe the easiest way to find the problem is to disconnect the suction hose at the source fitting near the bulkhead behind the pump and using a funnel add water to the pump through this hose and reconnect. The suction leak is probably at this hose connection, or at the other end of this hose at the connection to the pump.

Also, you might find the in-line one-way valve stuck open with trash.

Hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018, 07:31 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all, 

Last night our fresh water pump emptied the fresh water tank (via the toilet rinse).

We refilled the tank with 150L of water. But the pump runs empty. I feel the suction line needs to be re primed. 
We have the original Reya pump and accumulator from Amel. 

Any advice on how to do that?

Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO
A54 122
Curacao 


Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

We serviced our autoprop 18 months ago but with so much time in Asia, Maldives etc with little to no wind we have already exceeded the recommended 800 - 1000hrs use after which it is time to re-service the Autoprop by changing all bearings.


Having done 1400 hrs since the last autoprop bearing replacement we have developed a very slight vibration noticeable at engine speeds over 1800 rpms which we saw previously and which disappeared as son as the autoprop bearings were replaced last time.


I now hear that Amel moved the spec from Autoprop to Maxprop due to similar issues some years after our 2001 SM was manufactured?


Question 1.

Does anyone on this group know the specs of the correct sized Maxprop which would match our Yanmar 75hp on the SM? If not, what is the spec of the Maxprop which Amel fitted to later SM's?


Question 2.

Does anyone here have experience of both the Autoprop and the Maxprop on their SM's? Any noticable difference in performance, top speed and prop noise?


We are in touch with Bruntons in UK and will probably order a replacement bearing set in the next day or so but before I spend that money I would like to think about the alternative of rather moving to a new Maxprop. Any ideas on the prices of these as I believe they are significantly cheaper than the Autoprop?


We arrived into Cape Town early this morning after spending the past 1.75 years seeing all of the Indian Ocean. Great to be in one of the worlds most beautiful cities and back in the Atlantic Ocean. We depart Cape Town for Caribbean in late November.


Thanks


Colin Streeter

SV Island Pearl II, sm #332

Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town, South Africa


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A54 bilge pump capacity

Rink De Haan
 

For those still interested the Marina ZZ is still available in France. Reya is now Vidal Marine
http://vidalmarine.com. They sell it through third party vendors such as “allboat.fr”. Price is €793.36 tax included. 
Pretty expensive compared to the Vetus pump. 

Cheers,
Rink
SM2k #330

Op di 9 okt. 2018 om 20:45 schreef Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

 

OK, here goes, and I apologize for the LOOOONG reply.

PUMPS
The last gray water pumps that Amel installed were Reya, but that is because Reya bought the company that made the Marina ZZ pump. It has a rated capacity of 30 liters/min 1800 liter/hour. Reya no longer sells this Marina ZZ. This pump was the Amel OEM pump installed on most SMs and all 54s.

A good replacement for the above is: Vetus WASTE PUMP, 24V SKU: EMP14024B Self-priming pump designed to prevent blockages when pumping water with solids. Rated at 27 l/min. LINK: https://www.vetus.com/en/waste-water-bilge-pump-24-v.html
OR, Johnson Pumps 10-13373-08 Viking Power 32 Vacuum Pump, 24V Rated at 32 liters/min LINK: https://www.pumpvendor..com/Johnson_10-13373-08.html

Both of the above pumps are diaphragm type pumps and rated for waste water containing solids...this is important.

The manual pump is also rated at 30 liters/minute

INSURANCE
Of course these guys know nothing and don't understand that you do not have a common bilge and that you have watertight compartments. It may be difficult to educate them, so I suggest that you buy this pump. Have a long electrical cord and discharge hose. Have it ready to deploy. AND, you can use it to pump out your freshwater tank when cleaning: Rule 1100 GPH Non-Automatic, Bilge Pump, Submersible LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Rule-28D-Marine-Non-Automatic-Submersible/dp/B002FVQ19Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539110040&sr=8-3&keywords=rule%2Bsubmersible%2B24%2Bvolt&dpID=4177GgOsf7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1&psc=1

Good luck with your insurance company. I was able to educate Velos Insurance UK.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 8:29 AM 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups..com> wrote:
 

Hello,

Could anyone pls confirm the flow of the A54 bilge pump? it is a REYA tipo Marina.
We have seen in a separate thread that the SM one is rated 75L/min (~19GPM), and same for the manual.
Wondering if the SM and A54 share the same specs, and same combined bilge pumping capacity (yes, over the 25GPM required by some insurances...)

Thanks

Soraya
GARULFO A54-122
Spanish Waters, Curacao


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] model number of CAT pump on watermaker.

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

Thanks Bill,

Wat is The better Choice 230V/50Hz/1ph , 13,67 A, 2,2 kW,  2800 U/min operating capacitor

Ore                                       230V/50Hz/1ph , 13,67 A, 2,2 kW,  1400 U/min operating capacitor

 

Best Heinz

 

Von: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Oktober 2018 14:30
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] model number of CAT pump on watermaker.

 

 

Heinz,

 

Why are you ordering a 3-phase electric motor? You need to check this carefully. Your generator is single phase, so is shore power except if you have a very large yacht.

 

The CAT pump you are ordering is NOT the original OEM pump.

 

I will send you some information on the motor and pump later today.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018, 06:49 Heinz Stutenbäumer heinz@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello all

 

After the manufacturer of my duo 160 L had offered me a price of 1350,00 Euro + 750,00 Euro = 2100,00 Euro for the delivery in Panama only for the 220 V engine, I decided to contact CAT - Pumps with the request to make me an offer for a pump with 220 V engine.

 

I received the following offer.

1 CAT PUMPS high pressure plunger pump Model: 3CP1231, Pump head: stainless steel, Seal material: NBR, Plunger: Ceramic, Flow rate: 7.5 l/min, Operating pressure: 140 bar, Speed: 1420 min-1

Drive: direct, by means of elastic clutch, the pump is controlled by a pump support flange-mounted to the engine

Motor: three-phase motor 2.2 kW 4-pole, 3~230/400 V - 50 Hz, Building..: B34 Insulation class: F, Protection class IP55

IP55

Pump-motor-unit completely mounted on

Base plate (stainless steel) with rubber-bonded metals at the Underside.

Total 1492,00 Euro.

 

That  is a big  difference.

I have now ordered a similar engine in Berlin, which I will take with me in the plane to Panama. It costs 350,00 Euro.

If the pump has to be replaced I will reorder it.

I will let you know if this works.

 

Fair Winds

Heinz Stutenbäumer SM 2000, 292


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - I was wrong!

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

 

I do not think you are wrong. The old saying, I was wrong once when I thought I was wrong. 

 

First, the date on the schematic is 2014. Perhaps this is true for vessels manufactured after this date. However, the Amel factory installed units on Cream Puff are most certainly in series. Case in point, the forward AC unit’s output is connected directly to the through hull fitting under the port berth in the forward cabin. This is the only output for the sea-water flow. If the units were in parallel, there would have to be some sort of manifold for the other unit’s output to come together for this exit point between the unit and the through hull fitting. But, there isn’t. Or, there would have to be additional through hull fittings for the other AC units. This is also not the case. The only way this can be explained is the units are in series.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 10:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - I was wrong!

 

 

All,

 

About 10 years ago someone from Amel explained to me the saltwater plumbing to the Climma Compact units were in series with the cooling water getting progressively warmer with each unit. When I looked at each visible hose, it appeared that they were in series.

 

With the help of Rob Warren at Coastal Climate Control and Thierry Billard at Amel, this has been clarified. The units are plumbed parallel.

 

I have been wrong about this for 10 years because the parallel hose junctions are hidden and only one inlet and output at each Climma Unit. Also, many years ago when someone told me they were in series and I did not check! (always measure twice😀).

 

Later today I will upload a waterflow diagram that illustrates this.

 

I apologize for the error and hope that this did not cause any issues for you, especially Loca Lola who installed AC units recently based on my instructions.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - I was wrong!

 

All,

About 10 years ago someone from Amel explained to me the saltwater plumbing to the Climma Compact units were in series with the cooling water getting progressively warmer with each unit. When I looked at each visible hose, it appeared that they were in series.

With the help of Rob Warren at Coastal Climate Control and Thierry Billard at Amel, this has been clarified. The units are plumbed parallel.

I have been wrong about this for 10 years because the parallel hose junctions are hidden and only one inlet and output at each Climma Unit. Also, many years ago when someone told me they were in series and I did not check! (always measure twice😀).

Later today I will upload a waterflow diagram that illustrates this.

I apologize for the error and hope that this did not cause any issues for you, especially Loca Lola who installed AC units recently based on my instructions.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Priming Fresh water pump

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Bill,

That sounds like bad news (like a somehow broken pump) because i would expect a suction side air leak to have caused problems before we got into the empty tank situation?

Is there a foot valve on the suction line side in the tank to keep it primed ? Is that what you call the in-line one way valve?

I’ll investigate the hoses and try the pump on its own. 

Thanks
Thomas


On Wed, 10 Oct 2018 at 09:19, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

It is self priming. 

Self priming pumps don't prime if there is a suction-side air leak. Maybe the easiest way to find the problem is to disconnect the suction hose at the source fitting near the bulkhead behind the pump and using a funnel add water to the pump through this hose and reconnect. The suction leak is probably at this hose connection, or at the other end of this hose at the connection to the pump.

Also, you might find the in-line one-way valve stuck open with trash.

Hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018, 07:31 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all, 

Last night our fresh water pump emptied the fresh water tank (via the toilet rinse).

We refilled the tank with 150L of water. But the pump runs empty. I feel the suction line needs to be re primed. 
We have the original Reya pump and accumulator from Amel. 

Any advice on how to do that?

Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO
A54 122
Curacao 


Re: Holding Tank Retrofit on SM

Steven Bode - SV Intention 1994-SM#117
 

Well, my facia is definitely fiberglassed in. I guess I'm breaking out the grinder to cut out the facia unless anyone else has a miraculous idea! Anyone?

Pictures of the inside of the facia:


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Priming Fresh water pump

 

It is self priming. 

Self priming pumps don't prime if there is a suction-side air leak. Maybe the easiest way to find the problem is to disconnect the suction hose at the source fitting near the bulkhead behind the pump and using a funnel add water to the pump through this hose and reconnect. The suction leak is probably at this hose connection, or at the other end of this hose at the connection to the pump.

Also, you might find the in-line one-way valve stuck open with trash.

Hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018, 07:31 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all, 

Last night our fresh water pump emptied the fresh water tank (via the toilet rinse).

We refilled the tank with 150L of water. But the pump runs empty. I feel the suction line needs to be re primed. 
We have the original Reya pump and accumulator from Amel. 

Any advice on how to do that?

Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO
A54 122
Curacao 


Priming Fresh water pump

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all, 

Last night our fresh water pump emptied the fresh water tank (via the toilet rinse).

We refilled the tank with 150L of water. But the pump runs empty. I feel the suction line needs to be re primed. 
We have the original Reya pump and accumulator from Amel. 

Any advice on how to do that?

Thanks
Thomas

GARULFO
A54 122
Curacao 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

Willem Kroes
 

Hi Duane,

I also had problems with the Climma units. In the end I bought 3 new Webasto units 9000 BTU each. They cost me around 1100 US dollars each (without taxes and shipping cost). I heard that Amel in the Caribbean is also installing these Sebastian units. Only in the saloon we had to cut out a small piece of wood to get the unit in. In the saloon and in the forward cabin we used the small frame and filter of the old Climma units to cover the inlet.

The model is the FCF 9000. It has reverse cycle heating. So not heating element. But to be effective for heating the unit needs 40° F  outside water temperature.

I bought the units via E-Bay in the US and got shipment to Spain. In total I bought 3 Webasto units for the price of 2 new Climma units.

Best regards,

Willem Kroes

SM # 351  KAVANGA

Cartagena, Spain

Op 9 okt. 2018 19:36 schreef "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I had a problem earlier this year with the heater not working, so I replaced the three smaller capacitors and it began working again.


Then when it got to the summer, the AC stopped working - the compressor would not start.  I rechecked the capacitors, and all were within spec.  I decided to have a tech work on it and when we turned on the power to the unit it immediately tripped the boat breaker - this was new - before the unit just wouldn't start.  The other two units run fine, so I don't think it's the dock power.


The technician checked for a short to the compressor case, which he said was the leading cause of tripping the breaker, but there was no short.  He recommended a new unit as more cost effective than repair.  As he was leaving he recommended I check the power coming to the unit to be sure the short wasn't in the power supply.


I checked the breaker and have continuity when on and none when off.  I took the wires off the AC and the breaker and the wires have continuity, so no broken wires.  I put the wires back on the breaker and checked continuity at the AC unit with the breaker on (and power off) and that's fine.  With the power wires disconnected from the unit and the breaker and power ON nothing trips the breaker.


In an earlier thread, several people recommended the thermostat as the problem, the tech opined that if it were the problem, it would not trip the breaker.


Any other ideas for troubleshooting?  I've read that the relays sometimes fail, are they the clear plastic enclosed things in the box with the capacitors?


Coastal Climate Control quotes a replacement Climma 9EH at $3,228.  They also sell "Marinaire" brand, a 9,000BTU unit is quoted at $1,399 but it's a 60HZ unit.  What other brands have you replaced this with?


Thanks,

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

eric freedman
 

There is a little white thing on the control box with the power wires running through it, It is screwed into the chassis I thought it was called a thermistor but it is not and I forgot what it is called. That thing was the problem with my Climma unit.

Sorry I cannot help any further. Just trace the incoming power to the control box and you will find .it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 5:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

 

 

Does not the blower come on first before the compressor?  Timing may give you a clue where to look. When it’s my compressor then it runs a few seconds until it tries to start the compressor and then bam. 

 

Also if turned to heat mode and no breaker blow then you can rule out fan as being the fault. And also then highly question the compressor/ compressor capacitor correct?  

Just some thoughts. 

 

I’ve blown a lot of capacitors. They are always highly suspect even if I recently tested them. 

 

Porter. 

A54-152

 

 

 

Excuse the errors.  

Sent from my IPhone 


On Oct 9, 2018, at 1:58 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For what it is worth:

There are many causes of a short or ground-fault causing this symptom. The ones I know about are in order of probability, followed by a possible solution:

  1. There is a wire inside the control box grounding to the case. This is possible because you have been inside the control box - Check very carefully
  2. There are two more capacitors that you did not change...they are the compressor start and run capacitors - Change them
  3. Corrosion on the Main Control PCB - clean and use CorrosionX
  4. Corrosion on the PCB on the ON/OFF thermostat module  - test by removing small green/yellow wire (EARTH) on the metal frame of the thermostat module, taking appropriate safety precautions...if you don't know how to safely do this, don't do it. If the AC stops tripping, there is a short in the  thermostat module and it is probably caused by corrosion - clean and use corrosionX
  5. Short in the Blower Unit - replace the blower about $375 
  6. Sort in the Compressor unit - Buy a new AC.

If I had completed 1-4 above, without success, I would buy the Blower Unit. Even if it changing the blower with a new one didn't solve your problem, you will have 2 more chances of using it.😀

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.

 

 

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 1:26 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Mark.

 

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

eric freedman
 

Duane,

I used the Dometic unit. A very simple installed an  inexpensive.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 1:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

 

 

I had a problem earlier this year with the heater not working, so I replaced the three smaller capacitors and it began working again.

 

Then when it got to the summer, the AC stopped working - the compressor would not start.  I rechecked the capacitors, and all were within spec.  I decided to have a tech work on it and when we turned on the power to the unit it immediately tripped the boat breaker - this was new - before the unit just wouldn't start.  The other two units run fine, so I don't think it's the dock power.

 

The technician checked for a short to the compressor case, which he said was the leading cause of tripping the breaker, but there was no short.  He recommended a new unit as more cost effective than repair.  As he was leaving he recommended I check the power coming to the unit to be sure the short wasn't in the power supply.

 

I checked the breaker and have continuity when on and none when off.  I took the wires off the AC and the breaker and the wires have continuity, so no broken wires.  I put the wires back on the breaker and checked continuity at the AC unit with the breaker on (and power off) and that's fine.  With the power wires disconnected from the unit and the breaker and power ON nothing trips the breaker.



In an earlier thread, several people recommended the thermostat as the problem, the tech opined that if it were the problem, it would not trip the breaker.

 

Any other ideas for troubleshooting?  I've read that the relays sometimes fail, are they the clear plastic enclosed things in the box with the capacitors?

 

Coastal Climate Control quotes a replacement Climma 9EH at $3,228.  They also sell "Marinaire" brand, a 9,000BTU unit is quoted at $1,399 but it's a 60HZ unit.  What other brands have you replaced this with?

 

Thanks,

Duane


Re: Repowering: Good running Volvo D3 or rebuild Perkins Prima 80T??

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hey guys, thank you so much for the input... y'all confirmed what I was thinking already, just those pangs of vestigial greed (cheaper! more power!) are hard to ignore! 

I'm repowering because my perkins has about 7500 hours on it and smokes a little more than I'd like. Still runs like a beast, but we're setting off on a multi-year circumnavigation soon and I want it to be fresh and good for another 8k hours. I have a quote to rebuild it completely (quite a bit more than 2500 USD, but it's a complete workover and we are in the EU after all...sigh). So yeah, anyway, I'll stick to my little perkins! 

Thanks again! 


Re: Repowering: Good running Volvo D3 or rebuild Perkins Prima 80T??

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Davi,
Just out of curiosity, why are you repowering? How many hours on your Perkins? What problems lead you to repower decision?
Should be about $2500 to re-do your Perkins if you do it yourself and it's great fun - should take only about a week.
Cheers, Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote :

Hey all.... So I'm repowering my SM and have been presented (maybe) with two options: Complete overhaul and rebuild/rebore of the original Perkins Prima 80T (80 horses) or dropping in the Volvo D3 out of a 54 (110 hp). I know they're completely different beasts, and I'd love the extra HP, but am also more interested in absolute reliability. The Volvo is claimed to run perfectly by people I trust (the future rebuilder of the Perkins and the previous owner of my boat, who is probably reading this and who has been nothing but 1000% honest with me). 


I've done some research and read that Volvos dont seem much desired and/or finicky and/or expensive to fix. BUT that's a lotta extra juice :) My question: Is it worth the squeeze? 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Shock from windlass

karkauai
 

Thanks Bill Reynolds, on it tomorrow.  The guy who Got shocked says it felt like a DC shock, not AC.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Oct 9, 2018, at 3:14 PM, sailor sail23692@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bad ground is usually the case. Redo ALL grounds to windless motor, switches and breakers.
Bill Reynolds
S/ Baidarka


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shock from windlass

karkauai
 

On it tomorrow, Pat.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Oct 9, 2018, at 12:22 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent, Why don't you check between the windlass and rail with a meter both ways , see if you get a voltage reading. What about running a wire from the neg. and then pos. side in the battery bank to your meter up at the windlass and again using the meter ,see if you have a reading ,also check the railing.

Good Luck,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Oct 6, 2018 8:37 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shock from windlass

 
Ok, thanks Bill and Bill.  Going to check it out tomorrow.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Oct 6, 2018, at 4:50 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent,

If there was no AC shore power connected, then that makes things a lot simpler--and safer.

24 Volts DC will normally not give enough current flow through the human body to notice. With very sweat-wet skin I have felt feel what might best be called a "tingle," not anything I'd call a "jolt" although it can be surprising.  

You can certainly put one hand on each terminal of a 24 Volt battery and not feel a thing, because your body has a far higher resistance than that wrench shorted across those same terminals.

Anything less than 50 Volts is normally considered "safe" for people.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie


Re: Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

Duane Siegfri
 

Porter,

Good point, the breaker trips immediately, so it may well be the blower.  That was one of the checks Bill R. recommended.  I'll have to dig into this when we get to Georgia...we're going there for a bit for Dr. visits etc.

Many thanks,
Duane


Re: Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

Duane Siegfri
 

Ian,

The aft cabin has the least amount of space, did the Webasto unit fit there without modifications?

Thanks,
Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma AC - Breaker Tripping - New unit recommendations?

Porter McRoberts
 

Does not the blower come on first before the compressor?  Timing may give you a clue where to look. When it’s my compressor then it runs a few seconds until it tries to start the compressor and then bam. 

Also if turned to heat mode and no breaker blow then you can rule out fan as being the fault. And also then highly question the compressor/ compressor capacitor correct?  

Just some thoughts. 

I’ve blown a lot of capacitors. They are always highly suspect even if I recently tested them. 

Porter. 
A54-152



Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Oct 9, 2018, at 1:58 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For what it is worth:
There are many causes of a short or ground-fault causing this symptom. The ones I know about are in order of probability, followed by a possible solution:
  1. There is a wire inside the control box grounding to the case. This is possible because you have been inside the control box - Check very carefully
  2. There are two more capacitors that you did not change...they are the compressor start and run capacitors - Change them
  3. Corrosion on the Main Control PCB - clean and use CorrosionX
  4. Corrosion on the PCB on the ON/OFF thermostat module  - test by removing small green/yellow wire (EARTH) on the metal frame of the thermostat module, taking appropriate safety precautions...if you don't know how to safely do this, don't do it. If the AC stops tripping, there is a short in the  thermostat module and it is probably caused by corrosion - clean and use corrosionX
  5. Short in the Blower Unit - replace the blower about $375 
  6. Sort in the Compressor unit - Buy a new AC.
If I had completed 1-4 above, without success, I would buy the Blower Unit. Even if it changing the blower with a new one didn't solve your problem, you will have 2 more chances of using it.😀

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 1:26 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Mark.


Duane

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