Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig, A rebuild shop told me that once removed ,it is essential that adjustments be made and set properly to function. Now my problem is to remove the pump, not an easy job to access the bolts and to disassemble. It is crazy that all three are leaking,I wish I had more time to tackle this,the clock is ticking.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 1:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt. 

As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). That's more than teflon tape, I think. 

Good luck, Craig SN68


---In amelyacht owners@...,
Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 75 00 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with i t,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail) [2 Attachments]

Alan Leslie
 

Merci Jean-Luc,

It seems like a good solution

Can you give me the email address again....yahoo doesn't like @

Please write it like           ba at abcde.com

Thanks again
Salutations
Alan
Elyse SM437
Noumea


---In amelyachtowners@..., <jlm@...> wrote :

Hello Alain,
A friend of me make me a prototype of the pulley in a technical plastic, it seems very, very fine, and with plastic NO corrosion is possible !
He test the pulley at 500kN ..

The probem with the AMEL pulley is the MEGA corrosion between the steinless steel and the aluminium.

This caused :
1-My first AMEL poulley was brocken in 3 parts !
2-My second AMEL poulley was not brocken BUT the steinless schaft was in bad condition ....

I am very angry after AMEL because the pulley is of poor quality that the piece is not available, cost for 2 pieces 500 or 600 euros ....

You can contact my friend, he will be happy to buy a cople of pulley
Bernard Ancelle
ANCELLE
Comboursière
38350 Saint Honoré
0607 490 415
0480 806088
ba@...



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] High Pitched Alarm coming from somewhere around the Nav Station

Mark Garver
 

Bill, 

Thanks for the reply I just discovered it is the old meteoliner barograph of all things. I didn’t even think it worked since the display doesn’t work not sure what triggered the alarm. With the help of younger ears we pinpointed the noise and was about to remove the panel behind the nav station and when moving to box we unplugged it and it stopped.

Thanks again!

Mark


On Oct 11, 2018, at 12:58 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Is your main saltwater valve below the sea chest open?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:35 AM Mark Garver mgarver@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We had the boat put on the hard when Hurricane Florence was off shore, not knowing if it would create storm surge, or even impact the Mobjack Bay area because we were back in Texas. I got back to the boat yesterday and it was in the water and I began ensuring all of the systems were turned on etc.

I noticed they hadn't turned on the 50Hz inverter, and since it was piping hot on the boat I wanted to run the A/C. As soon as I turned it on I got an AC Overload fault and this high pitch alarm started from behind the nav station. I turned of the Charger/Inverter and walked the boat and found they had left the AC units on, so I turned each of them off, came back and turned on the 50Hz Charger and Inverter, everything came up fine except... I still have this aggravating noise that has now been going on for 15 hours. Yesterday, when it first happened I thought it was a low battery warning so I just went about other projects, yet this morning, woke up and the alarm noise is still going and the batteries show Full Charge.

Any one have ideas?

Thanks,

Mark
S/V It's Good
SM #105
Gloucester, VA


Re: SM Turnbuckle

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Paul,
If they are the original turnbuckles from ACMO, that Amel uses, they are chromed bronze, not stainless steel. Brother Joel insists the best practice is to replace all turnbuckles (& clevis pins, etc.) whenever you do the rigging. He also recommends switching to mechanical fittings like Norseman or Sta-loc, at least on the bottom ends, rather than the swaged fittings that Amel/ACMO used originally. He's got a point.
Cheers, Craig SN68


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail)

 

jlm@...,

Thanks very much for that. I will share this with all Amel School Clients.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 10:08 AM jlm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Alain,
A friend of me make me a prototype of the pulley in a technical plastic, it seems very, very fine, and with plastic NO corrosion is possible !
He test the pulley at 500kN ..

The probem with the AMEL pulley is the MEGA corrosion between the steinless steel and the aluminium.

This caused :
1-My first AMEL poulley was brocken in 3 parts !
2-My second AMEL poulley was not brocken BUT the steinless schaft was in bad condition ....

I am very angry after AMEL because the pulley is of poor quality that the piece is not available, cost for 2 pieces 500 or 600 euros ....

You can contact my friend, he will be happy to buy a cople of pulley
Bernard Ancelle
ANCELLE
Comboursière
38350 Saint Honoré
0607 490 415
0480 806088
ba@...



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Craig Briggs
 

Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt. 

As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). That's more than teflon tape, I think. 

Good luck, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 7500 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with i t,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] High Pitched Alarm coming from somewhere around the Nav Station

 

Is your main saltwater valve below the sea chest open?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:35 AM Mark Garver mgarver@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We had the boat put on the hard when Hurricane Florence was off shore, not knowing if it would create storm surge, or even impact the Mobjack Bay area because we were back in Texas. I got back to the boat yesterday and it was in the water and I began ensuring all of the systems were turned on etc.

I noticed they hadn't turned on the 50Hz inverter, and since it was piping hot on the boat I wanted to run the A/C. As soon as I turned it on I got an AC Overload fault and this high pitch alarm started from behind the nav station. I turned of the Charger/Inverter and walked the boat and found they had left the AC units on, so I turned each of them off, came back and turned on the 50Hz Charger and Inverter, everything came up fine except... I still have this aggravating noise that has now been going on for 15 hours. Yesterday, when it first happened I thought it was a low battery warning so I just went about other projects, yet this morning, woke up and the alarm noise is still going and the batteries show Full Charge.

Any one have ideas?

Thanks,

Mark
S/V It's Good
SM #105
Gloucester, VA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diesel leak

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, My first post was misleading,I mentioned that I had a Volvo and meant to say it was the Onan that was leaking. It is leaking around the threads as they exit the pump.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 11:42 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diesel leak

 
Pat,

I assume you are talking about the four high pressure feed lines from the injection pump to the injectors.  The following is true, if you have the standard Bosch Injector pump...

First, if you introduce air to the fuel system, you have to bleed at the injectors.

And now to the nitty-gritty...

There are two parts that seal the high pressure at the face of the injector pump, one is a fitting that is screwed into the body of the pump, the other is the high pressure flare-type fitting on the pump end of the injector feed tube.  

The nut on the flare fitting can be tightened.  If you do, be sure to get a wrench on the inner fitting to keep it from turning. For a flare fitting, the sealing surface is the metal to metal flare.  Teflon tape on the threads will do no good at all, and can only cause trouble. A TINY b it of antiseize only on the threads can help with tightening and removing later, but will not help with sealing. A danger here is if over tightening which can crack the tube, and that is a pain to replace.  If you loosen tubes to take them apart, clean everything around them fanatically before you break them open. 

One trick that can sometimes work for a stubborn leak here is to crack open one of these flare nuts while the engine is running, like you do at the injector end to bleed air.  Diesel fuel will squirt out, and if you have lead a good and pure life, it might flush out the tiny bit of dirt that was keeping the metal surfaces from sealing. I realize this is a pain to do on our boats because you have to be a double jointed contortionist monkey to reach it, even if the engine is off.

The fitting that actually screws into the pump body is a very different beast. Normally, these are only removed as part of a n injection pump rebuild. My Volvo shop manual covers the process for removing the injection pump, but that is all.  Parts and service details are all Bosch. I don't have those.

 I have never had one of these apart, but based on similar fittings I would guess they are actually valves sealed at the base with a copper squash washer. Tightening them is not likely to help if the copper washer has been compromised, and teflon tape is an absolute "No" here.  Any parts here are Bosch parts, and I do not believe they are available from Volvo.  The good news is these pumps are very common and not at all specific to this engine. The name plate on the side of your injection pump should lead you to an online parts diagram and list.

Once you start messing with the inside of an injection pump, it becomes a very fussy job.  The tiniest speck of hard dirt can damage parts, clearances are very tin y. Many special tools are needed.  Most  small diesel mechanic shops send these out to specialty shops who have the tools and test bench needed.

I had a similar leak on a similar injection pump on my old boat.  After several tries on my own, I took the whole assembly to the rebuild shop.  Came back as good as new. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Diesel leak

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

I assume you are talking about the four high pressure feed lines from the injection pump to the injectors.  The following is true, if you have the standard Bosch Injector pump...

First, if you introduce air to the fuel system, you have to bleed at the injectors.

And now to the nitty-gritty...

There are two parts that seal the high pressure at the face of the injector pump, one is a fitting that is screwed into the body of the pump, the other is the high pressure flare-type fitting on the pump end of the injector feed tube.  

The nut on the flare fitting can be tightened.  If you do, be sure to get a wrench on the inner fitting to keep it from turning. For a flare fitting, the sealing surface is the metal to metal flare.  Teflon tape on the threads will do no good at all, and can only cause trouble. A TINY bit of antiseize only on the threads can help with tightening and removing later, but will not help with sealing. A danger here is if over tightening which can crack the tube, and that is a pain to replace.  If you loosen tubes to take them apart, clean everything around them fanatically before you break them open. 

One trick that can sometimes work for a stubborn leak here is to crack open one of these flare nuts while the engine is running, like you do at the injector end to bleed air.  Diesel fuel will squirt out, and if you have lead a good and pure life, it might flush out the tiny bit of dirt that was keeping the metal surfaces from sealing. I realize this is a pain to do on our boats because you have to be a double jointed contortionist monkey to reach it, even if the engine is off.

The fitting that actually screws into the pump body is a very different beast. Normally, these are only removed as part of an injection pump rebuild. My Volvo shop manual covers the process for removing the injection pump, but that is all.  Parts and service details are all Bosch. I don't have those.

 I have never had one of these apart, but based on similar fittings I would guess they are actually valves sealed at the base with a copper squash washer. Tightening them is not likely to help if the copper washer has been compromised, and teflon tape is an absolute "No" here.  Any parts here are Bosch parts, and I do not believe they are available from Volvo.  The good news is these pumps are very common and not at all specific to this engine. The name plate on the side of your injection pump should lead you to an online parts diagram and list.

Once you start messing with the inside of an injection pump, it becomes a very fussy job.  The tiniest speck of hard dirt can damage parts, clearances are very tiny. Many special tools are needed.  Most  small diesel mechanic shops send these out to specialty shops who have the tools and test bench needed.

I had a similar leak on a similar injection pump on my old boat.  After several tries on my own, I took the whole assembly to the rebuild shop.  Came back as good as new. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Turnbuckle

karkauai
 

Hi Paul,
Mine are chrome-plated bronze.  

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:58 AM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We plan to change the standing rigging this season when we get to Martinique. I assume the current turnbuckles are made from stainless steel and need to be replaced as well. Better material for a turnbuckle is bronze, crome or nickel plated. Then next time to change the standing rigging it should be enough to just replace the wire not the bronze turnbuckles.. Anyone having bronze turnbuckles or anyone having thought of the issue?

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 7500 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with i t,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Jose Venegas
 

Great story and inspiring to all of us close to making the jump.  I will have plenty of questions about your trip after I watch your videos.

As to the prop, there are three main differences between the Auto and the Max, all affecting performance (at least in theory). 
 I) Autoprop has beautifully shaped blades with an angle of attack that varies radially and becomes smaller as you move away from the shaft. This "twist" is key to increase efficiency and avoid cavitation as it accommodates the changes in relative velocity of the blade with respect to the water that increases with the radius.   In contrast, the blades of the Max prop have no twit; they are flat.  Of course, this reduces the drag when the engine is off compared with the Autoprop.  
2) Autoprop has blades that adjust the angle of attack depending on the speed of the boat.  This maintains thrust during motor sailing even as the wind speed increases.  The auto prop blades have a constant angle of attack and, at constant RPM, the thrust decreases as the speed of the boat increases.  In fact, at a certain boat speed, the thurst becomes zero as the prop just cuts through the water.
3) Depending on where it happens, growth on an Autoprop blade is prone to create much more imbalance and vibration than one equivalent on the Max.

 Although these are theoretical reasons based on fluid mechanics, I don't know the extent to which they affect the fuel consumption or boat speed since I have not made the measurement.  I think the increased drag of the Autoprop during sailing should not be noticeable but the difference in efficiency may be more critical in long passages if motoring or motor-sailing is called for.   So, personally, I prefer the Autoprop for our boat because we tend to motor or motor-sail more than I used to in my previous coastal sailing boat.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 2K 178
Boston









 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail) [2 Attachments]

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Bonjour,
Merci for thr information,
JLuc on CottonBay


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail) [2 Attachments]

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Hello Alain,
A friend of me make me a prototype of the pulley in a technical plastic, it seems very, very fine, and with plastic NO corrosion is possible !
He test the pulley at 500kN ..

The probem with the AMEL pulley is the MEGA corrosion between the steinless steel and the aluminium.

This caused :
1-My first AMEL poulley was brocken in 3 parts !
2-My second AMEL poulley was not brocken BUT the steinless schaft was in bad condition ....

I am very angry after AMEL because the pulley is of poor quality that the piece is not available, cost for 2 pieces 500 or 600 euros ....

You can contact my friend, he will be happy to buy a cople of pulley
Bernard Ancelle
ANCELLE
Comboursière
38350 Saint Honoré
0607 490 415
0480 806088
ba@...



SM Turnbuckle

Paul Osterberg
 

We plan to change the standing rigging this season when we get to Martinique. I assume the current turnbuckles are made from stainless steel and need to be replaced as well. Better material for a turnbuckle is bronze, crome or nickel plated. Then next time to change the standing rigging it should be enough to just replace the wire not the bronze turnbuckles.. Anyone having bronze turnbuckles or anyone having thought of the issue?

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 7500 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with it,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail) [2 Attachments]

greatketch@...
 

Mike,

For the Andersen parts Mauri Pro Sailing either has them, or can get them if they are available from the factory.  Last time I looked (2 years ago?) they were available retail in the USA, not so much now!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - I was wrong!

 

Duane,

IMPORTANT DISTINCTION:
I am fairly certain that John Clark is describing the Climma engine room mounted AC compressors found in early model SMs with Climma 2-part ACs. The Heat Exchanger (HX) will be on the compressor in the engine room and not on the Blower/Evaporator mounted inside the boat. I imagine that what John describes is exactly what will happen when the AC HXs are plumbed parallel, whether they are located in the engine room as 2-part ACs, or located in various places inside the boat as Climma Compact 1-part units (like you have).

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:57 AM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

John,


Based on the Amel Appendix sketch of seawater flow, if the aft cabin AC unit heat exchanger was plugged, then the other two units would not get any flow.  Also, if the AC HX was blocked, would not the seawater pump would trip its breaker?   Also, if the two forward AC's were not getting any flow they would trip their breakers (you can check this by closing the seacock, which I did once inadvertently). 

This doesn't seem like a good idea on the face of it to me (but then what I don't know would fill volumes...).  However it seems to work pretty well.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


High Pitched Alarm coming from somewhere around the Nav Station

Mark Garver
 

We had the boat put on the hard when Hurricane Florence was off shore, not knowing if it would create storm surge, or even impact the Mobjack Bay area because we were back in Texas. I got back to the boat yesterday and it was in the water and I began ensuring all of the systems were turned on etc.

I noticed they hadn't turned on the 50Hz inverter, and since it was piping hot on the boat I wanted to run the A/C. As soon as I turned it on I got an AC Overload fault and this high pitch alarm started from behind the nav station. I turned of the Charger/Inverter and walked the boat and found they had left the AC units on, so I turned each of them off, came back and turned on the 50Hz Charger and Inverter, everything came up fine except... I still have this aggravating noise that has now been going on for 15 hours. Yesterday, when it first happened I thought it was a low battery warning so I just went about other projects, yet this morning, woke up and the alarm noise is still going and the batteries show Full Charge.

Any one have ideas?

Thanks,

Mark
S/V It's Good
SM #105
Gloucester, VA


Re: Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - I was wrong!

Duane Siegfri
 

John,

Based on the Amel Appendix sketch of seawater flow, if the aft cabin AC unit heat exchanger was plugged, then the other two units would not get any flow.  Also, if the AC HX was blocked, would not the seawater pump would trip its breaker?   Also, if the two forward AC's were not getting any flow they would trip their breakers (you can check this by closing the seacock, which I did once inadvertently). 

This doesn't seem like a good idea on the face of it to me (but then what I don't know would fill volumes...).  However it seems to work pretty well.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477