Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers Outhaul gearbox and motor

Mike Ondra
 

I think the steel is just a structural backbone for the seal and other materials are configurations would give you longer life. I replaced ours with off-the-shelf SKF seals. Also the bow thruster seals.

Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid

On Oct 18, 2018 2:25 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Mike and John.

I’ll try Motion Industries Mike.

Apparently the seals on the driveshaft are OEM parts, the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals is unusual and the 3 seal companies I’ve called say I’ll have to get them from the manufacturer. So far I’ve contacted Leroy Somers in the US, and they won’t sell me anything to do with this gearbox. They referred me to Amel, but Maud replied that the only parts she can supply are the bronze gears. I’m waiting to hear from ERIKS, the seal manufacturer, but I’m not holding my breath.

If a seal that doesn’t have the steel plate will do, it’s an easy part to source, I’m jut not sure of the function of the steel plate.

I have ordered a new motor and gearbox from Maude, but want to be able to replace seals on the old ones, too.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Oct 18, 2018, at 10:58 AM, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,
the gearboxes on Annie were in poor condition when I bought the boat. i replaced them in their entirety. If the top plate on the box is damaged maybe the simplest way forward is to just buy a new gearbox. I had Bonfig's and they were about $200 USD in the US. I realize yours are different but i cannot imagine that the cost would vary too much.

As far as the seals are concerned I think that most mechanical parts found in an assembly like these gear boxes is an off the shelf part. If you have the casing and shaft diameter and the depth you can most likely replace the seal with another brand.

I rooted around on the forum last year when rebuilding the emergency main furling gearbox. It took a bit but in the forum there were parts lists with easily sourced contemporary replacements.....for example the thrust bearing is also the front wheel bearing for an Acura NSX, the seals were from a Nissan..... you get the idea. Do a deepo dive oon the foorum and see if you can find someone else who did the same job.

Regards, John
SV Annie
SM 37
Hartman Bay Grenada

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 9:23 AM karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Amelians,
I am doing maintenance on my outhaul gear box, and need new lip seals. The gears still look great and the grease looks new without any evidence of water intrusion.

The double lip ones on the main shaft are unusual in that there is a steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals. It is ferrous and rusty. They are ID 35mm OD 45mm Depth 5mm, and marked:
ERIKS -F 2 BAF SL DRW 30 45 5

After trying other seal manufacturers, Leroy Somers USA, and Amel, I still haven’t found anyplace that can/will sell them to me. Maud says she can’t help.

I’m waiting to hear back from ERIKS but have little hope that they will be able to source them.

First question: what is the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals for? Would a seal without the plate work just as well?

Second: has anyone found a source for these seals?

Third: The upper plate on the gearbox was broken getting it off of the boom. Has anyone had one of these made at a machine shop? Any issues?

As usual, thank you for your help and expertise.

Happy Sailing
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
St Michaels MD USA




Photo of furler swivel showing locating tongue

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi. Attached is a photo
Danny
SM 299
Ocean pearl


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grenada insurance Coverage

John Clark
 

Hi Steve,
    We have TopSail (UK) the named storm exclusion zone ends at 12.07 degrees, which is about midway across Grenada.  This means all the boatyards in Grenada are clear of the exclusion zone so you would be covered here.

I have also been told that you can request amendments to your policy which may not be as big of a deal as you think.  We amended our navigation limits and schedule several times last year for a nominal charge.  

At Peake in Trinidad I saw many yachts fastened to the ground with straps.   Not so much at Coral Cove.
In Grenada I walked around Spice Island Boat Yard and don't recall if the boats were tied down, but there were several Super Maramus present.   I can dinghy over ad check if you are interested.

                          Regards  John

SV Annie
SM 37
Hartman Bay  Grenada


On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 12:33 PM Steve Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello All.  TouRai is presently in Hampton Virginia preparing for the Salty Dawg Rally to the BVI.  As this year's plan may involve a summer in Grenada, we are working with Pantaenius to obtain our new coverage.  While reading through the "Named Tropical Storm Plan Requirements" of my new policy quote, Pantaenius writes:
  1. The insured vessel shall be hauled and secured a unitized cradle suitable for the vessel or in a hurricane pit. With either arrangement, the vessel is to be lashed directly to the ground or to concrete blocks, one concrete block with a minimum weight of 5000 lbs to be located at each lashing anchor point. Lashing is to be accomplished using a minimum of one (1) tensioning strap located symmetrically on each side of the vessel for every 10 feet of vessel length.
    Each strap shall have a minimum breaking strength of 5000 lbs. Single straps may be run transversely across the vessel and lashed to the ground or concrete blocks on both sides of
    the vessel to accomplish required lashings. In addition, the vessel interior and stowage lockers shall be secured and locked to prevent theft and vandalism and all loose or removable items, components, parts, and equipment, including but not limited to personal effects, sails, cushions, canvas, and covers, must be removed and properly secured to prevent damage or loss.


    My question to the members here who have spent time in Grenada is, "how difficult is it to meet such requirements in Grenada?  Is this the sort of set up I can expect to find on short notice, or is this a setup that Pantaenius assumes I can't fulfill?  When summering in Grenada, do you pay a haul out facility to hold a spot for you should you need it?  

    Any advice would be welcome as our renewal date is approaching.  Staying below 30.5 already comes with a stiff premium increase through Pantaenius, I just want to believe that I am not paying more for coverage stipulations that I will not be ale to satisfy should the time come.

    All the best to you all as we await the annual 01Nov release...

    Steve Morrison
    SM 380 TouRai
    Hampton, VA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers Outhaul gearbox and motor

karkauai
 

Thanks Mike and John.

I’ll try Motion Industries Mike.

Apparently the seals on the driveshaft are OEM parts, the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals is unusual and the 3 seal companies I’ve called say I’ll have to get them from the manufacturer.  So far I’ve contacted Leroy Somers in the US, and they won’t sell me anything to do with this gearbox.  They referred me to Amel, but Maud replied that the only parts she can supply are the bronze gears.  I’m waiting to hear from ERIKS, the seal manufacturer, but I’m not holding my breath.

If a seal that doesn’t have the steel plate will do, it’s an easy part to source, I’m jut not sure of the function of the steel plate.

I have ordered a new motor and gearbox from Maude, but want to be able to replace seals on the old ones, too.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Oct 18, 2018, at 10:58 AM, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,
    the gearboxes on Annie were in poor condition when I bought the boat.  i replaced them in their entirety.  If the top plate on the box is damaged maybe the simplest way forward is to just buy a new gearbox.  I had Bonfig's and they were about $200 USD in the US.  I realize yours are different but i cannot imagine that the cost would vary too much.

As far as the seals are concerned I think that most mechanical parts found in an assembly like these gear boxes is an off the shelf part.  If you have the casing and shaft diameter and the depth you can most likely replace the seal with another brand.  

I rooted around on the forum last year when rebuilding the emergency main furling gearbox.  It took a bit but in the forum there were parts lists with easily sourced  contemporary replacements.....for example the thrust bearing is also the front wheel bearing for an Acura NSX, the seals were from a Nissan..... you get the idea.   Do a deepo dive oon the foorum and see if you can find someone else who did the same job.

       Regards,  John
SV Annie
SM 37
Hartman Bay Grenada
                             

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 9:23 AM karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Amelians,
I am doing maintenance on my outhaul gear box, and need new lip seals. The gears still look great and the grease looks new without any evidence of water intrusion.

The double lip ones on the main shaft are unusual in that there is a steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals. It is ferrous and rusty. They are ID 35mm OD 45mm Depth 5mm, and marked:
ERIKS -F 2 BAF SL DRW 30 45 5

After trying other seal manufacturers, Leroy Somers USA, and Amel, I still haven’t found anyplace that can/will sell them to me. Maud says she can’t help.

I’m waiting to hear back from ERIKS but have little hope that they will be able to source them.

First question: what is the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals for? Would a seal without the plate work just as well?

Second: has anyone found a source for these seals?

Third: The upper plate on the gearbox was broken getting it off of the boom. Has anyone had one of these made at a machine shop? Any issues?

As usual, thank you for your help and expertise.

Happy Sailing
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
St Michaels MD USA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Not Locking

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks to Bill K, Danny and Alexandre for your replies. Until I am able to get the swivel down I can't really say which advice applies.  Maybe there will be no wind tomorrow and I will be able to drop the genoa whilst at anchor here in Marmaris. I favour Bills thought that if the head attachment rope is too long there may be an alignment problem, but I will check the tongue as well.

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader


On 18/10/2018 18:03, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Ian,


I have found one issue you might have a look at.  I am sure there are others that people with more Amel time than I have come across.

I haven't noticed it being sensitive to the exact height on the foil, although I haven't tested it much in that regard.

If latch actually works with all the parts in hand, it might be an alignment issue.  Keep the lashing line from the head of the genoa very short, and be sure that the head swivel is rotating smoothly.  You want to be sure that the latch stays directly over the proper slot in the foil. If it rotates off center a bit it doesn't latch.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Not Locking

Danny Simms
 

Hi Bill,
further to my last. The reason it won't be over the slot is because the tongue I described being worn off. I struggled with the same problem before it was pointed out to me by another amelian.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On Fri, 19 Oct 2018 at 04:37, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ian,


I have found one issue you might have a look at.  I am sure there are others that people with more Amel time than I have come across.

I haven't noticed it being sensitive to the exact height on the foil, although I haven't tested it much in that regard.

If latch actually works with all the parts in hand, it might be an alignment issue.  Keep the lashing line from the head of the genoa very short, and be sure that the head swivel is rotating smoothly.  You want to be sure that the latch stays directly over the proper slot in the foil. If it rotates off center a bit it doesn't latch.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@...,
The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)


Re: Grenada insurance Coverage

Ian Park
 

Check Y Yachts UK. Their plain wording contract is on their website. Pantaenius UK had a high percentage hurricane damage excess. Y Yachts asked for a 5k excess.
We spent a couple of years in Clarke’s Court which met all requirements.
Ours is a Santorin, but I am aware of SM owners who are using Y Yachts.
Good luck

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Grenada summer insurance

Steve Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Hello All.  TouRai is presently in Hampton Virginia preparing for the Salty Dawg Rally to the BVI.  As this year's plan may involve a summer in Grenada, we are working with Pantaenius to obtain our new coverage.  While reading through the "Named Tropical Storm Plan Requirements" of my new policy quote, Pantaenius writes:
  1. The insured vessel shall be hauled and secured a unitized cradle suitable for the vessel or in a hurricane pit. With either arrangement, the vessel is to be lashed directly to the ground or to concrete blocks, one concrete block with a minimum weight of 5000 lbs to be located at each lashing anchor point. Lashing is to be accomplished using a minimum of one (1) tensioning strap located symmetrically on each side of the vessel for every 10 feet of vessel length.
    Each strap shall have a minimum breaking strength of 5000 lbs. Single straps may be run transversely across the vessel and lashed to the ground or concrete blocks on both sides of
    the vessel to accomplish required lashings. In addition, the vessel interior and stowage lockers shall be secured and locked to prevent theft and vandalism and all loose or removable items, components, parts, and equipment, including but not limited to personal effects, sails, cushions, canvas, and covers, must be removed and properly secured to prevent damage or loss.


    My question to the members here who have spent time in Grenada is, "how difficult is it to meet such requirements in Grenada?  Is this the sort of set up I can expect to find on short notice, or is this a setup that Pantaenius assumes I can't fulfill?  When summering in Grenada, do you pay a haul out facility to hold a spot for you should you need it?  

    Any advice would be welcome as our renewal date is approaching.  Staying below 30.5 already comes with a stiff premium increase through Pantaenius, I just want to believe that I am not paying more for coverage stipulations that I will not be ale to satisfy should the time come.

    All the best to you all as we await the annual 01Nov release...

    Steve Morrison
    SM 380 TouRai
    Hampton, VA


Grenada insurance Coverage

Steve Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Hello All.  TouRai is presently in Hampton Virginia preparing for the Salty Dawg Rally to the BVI.  As this year's plan may involve a summer in Grenada, we are working with Pantaenius to obtain our new coverage.  While reading through the "Named Tropical Storm Plan Requirements" of my new policy quote, Pantaenius writes:
  1. The insured vessel shall be hauled and secured a unitized cradle suitable for the vessel or in a hurricane pit. With either arrangement, the vessel is to be lashed directly to the ground or to concrete blocks, one concrete block with a minimum weight of 5000 lbs to be located at each lashing anchor point. Lashing is to be accomplished using a minimum of one (1) tensioning strap located symmetrically on each side of the vessel for every 10 feet of vessel length.
    Each strap shall have a minimum breaking strength of 5000 lbs. Single straps may be run transversely across the vessel and lashed to the ground or concrete blocks on both sides of
    the vessel to accomplish required lashings. In addition, the vessel interior and stowage lockers shall be secured and locked to prevent theft and vandalism and all loose or removable items, components, parts, and equipment, including but not limited to personal effects, sails, cushions, canvas, and covers, must be removed and properly secured to prevent damage or loss.


    My question to the members here who have spent time in Grenada is, "how difficult is it to meet such requirements in Grenada?  Is this the sort of set up I can expect to find on short notice, or is this a setup that Pantaenius assumes I can't fulfill?  When summering in Grenada, do you pay a haul out facility to hold a spot for you should you need it?  

    Any advice would be welcome as our renewal date is approaching.  Staying below 30.5 already comes with a stiff premium increase through Pantaenius, I just want to believe that I am not paying more for coverage stipulations that I will not be ale to satisfy should the time come.

    All the best to you all as we await the annual 01Nov release...

    Steve Morrison
    SM 380 TouRai
    Hampton, VA


Grenada Insurance Coverage

steve_morrison@...
 

Hello All.  TouRai is presently in Hampton Virginia preparing for the Salty Dawg Rally to the BVI.  As this year's plan may involve a summer in Grenada, we are working with Pantaenius to obtain our new coverage.  While reading through the "Named Tropical Storm Plan Requirements" of my new policy quote, Pantaenius writes:

  1. The insured vessel shall be hauled and secured a unitized cradle suitable for the vessel or in a hurricane pit. With either arrangement, the vessel is to be lashed directly to the ground or to concrete blocks, one concrete block with a minimum weight of 5000 lbs to be located at each lashing anchor point. Lashing is to be accomplished using a minimum of one (1) tensioning strap located symmetrically on each side of the vessel for every 10 feet of vessel length.
    Each strap shall have a minimum breaking strength of 5000 lbs. Single straps may be run transversely across the vessel and lashed to the ground or concrete blocks on both sides of
    the vessel to accomplish required lashings. In addition, the vessel interior and stowage lockers shall be secured and locked to prevent theft and vandalism and all loose or removable items, components, parts, and equipment, including but not limited to personal effects, sails, cushions, canvas, and covers, must be removed and properly secured to prevent damage or loss.



    My question to the members here who have spent time in Grenada is, "how difficult is it to meet such requirements in Grenada?  Is this the sort of set up I can expect to find on short notice, or is this a setup that Pantaenius assumes I can't fulfill?  When summering in Grenada, do you pay a haul out facility to hold a spot for you should you need it?  


    Any advice would be welcome as our renewal date is approaching.  Staying below 30.5 already comes with a stiff premium increase through Pantaenius, I just want to believe that I am not paying more for coverage stipulations that I will not be ale to satisfy should the time come.


    All the best to you all as we await the annual 01Nov release...


    Steve Morrison

    SM 380 TouRai

    Hampton, VA


Re: Gennaker

Ian Park
 

I’ve kept my ballooned up way beyond recommended wind speed mainly because I left it too late. We just furled down to storm job size and ran downwind overnight until the wind dropped then dropped and got back on our proper course. Depends where you are in relation to land and distance to go.
One of the reasons that both headsails fuel together. Question to ask is “can I manage without my Genoa if things get worse?”

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Re: Ballooner Not Locking

greatketch@...
 

Ian,

I have found one issue you might have a look at.  I am sure there are others that people with more Amel time than I have come across.

I haven't noticed it being sensitive to the exact height on the foil, although I haven't tested it much in that regard.

If latch actually works with all the parts in hand, it might be an alignment issue.  Keep the lashing line from the head of the genoa very short, and be sure that the head swivel is rotating smoothly.  You want to be sure that the latch stays directly over the proper slot in the foil. If it rotates off center a bit it doesn't latch.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@..., <sv_freespirit@...> wrote :

The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers Outhaul gearbox and motor

John Clark
 

Hi Kent,
    the gearboxes on Annie were in poor condition when I bought the boat.  i replaced them in their entirety.  If the top plate on the box is damaged maybe the simplest way forward is to just buy a new gearbox.  I had Bonfig's and they were about $200 USD in the US.  I realize yours are different but i cannot imagine that the cost would vary too much.

As far as the seals are concerned I think that most mechanical parts found in an assembly like these gear boxes is an off the shelf part.  If you have the casing and shaft diameter and the depth you can most likely replace the seal with another brand.  

I rooted around on the forum last year when rebuilding the emergency main furling gearbox.  It took a bit but in the forum there were parts lists with easily sourced  contemporary replacements.....for example the thrust bearing is also the front wheel bearing for an Acura NSX, the seals were from a Nissan..... you get the idea.   Do a deepo dive oon the foorum and see if you can find someone else who did the same job.

       Regards,  John
SV Annie
SM 37
Hartman Bay Grenada
                             

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 9:23 AM karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Amelians,
I am doing maintenance on my outhaul gear box, and need new lip seals. The gears still look great and the grease looks new without any evidence of water intrusion.

The double lip ones on the main shaft are unusual in that there is a steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals. It is ferrous and rusty. They are ID 35mm OD 45mm Depth 5mm, and marked:
ERIKS -F 2 BAF SL DRW 30 45 5

After trying other seal manufacturers, Leroy Somers USA, and Amel, I still haven’t found anyplace that can/will sell them to me. Maud says she can’t help.

I’m waiting to hear back from ERIKS but have little hope that they will be able to source them.

First question: what is the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals for? Would a seal without the plate work just as well?

Second: has anyone found a source for these seals?

Third: The upper plate on the gearbox was broken getting it off of the boom. Has anyone had one of these made at a machine shop? Any issues?

As usual, thank you for your help and expertise.

Happy Sailing
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
St Michaels MD USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers Outhaul gearbox and motor

Mike Ondra
 

Try Motion Industries. they have been a good source of seals for me. SKF manufacturers quite a few varieties.
Mike

Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid

On Oct 18, 2018 9:22 AM, "karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Amelians,
I am doing maintenance on my outhaul gear box, and need new lip seals. The gears still look great and the grease looks new without any evidence of water intrusion.

The double lip ones on the main shaft are unusual in that there is a steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals. It is ferrous and rusty. They are ID 35mm OD 45mm Depth 5mm, and marked:
ERIKS -F 2 BAF SL DRW 30 45 5

After trying other seal manufacturers, Leroy Somers USA, and Amel, I still haven’t found anyplace that can/will sell them to me. Maud says she can’t help.

I’m waiting to hear back from ERIKS but have little hope that they will be able to source them.

First question: what is the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals for? Would a seal without the plate work just as well?

Second: has anyone found a source for these seals?

Third: The upper plate on the gearbox was broken getting it off of the boom. Has anyone had one of these made at a machine shop? Any issues?

As usual, thank you for your help and expertise.

Happy Sailing
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
St Michaels MD USA


Posted by: karkauai@...
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Leroy Somers Outhaul gearbox and motor

karkauai
 

Hi Amelians,
I am doing maintenance on my outhaul gear box, and need new lip seals. The gears still look great and the grease looks new without any evidence of water intrusion.

The double lip ones on the main shaft are unusual in that there is a steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals. It is ferrous and rusty. They are ID 35mm OD 45mm Depth 5mm, and marked:
ERIKS -F 2 BAF SL DRW 30 45 5

After trying other seal manufacturers, Leroy Somers USA, and Amel, I still haven’t found anyplace that can/will sell them to me. Maud says she can’t help.

I’m waiting to hear back from ERIKS but have little hope that they will be able to source them.

First question: what is the steel plate embedded in the crown of the seals for? Would a seal without the plate work just as well?

Second: has anyone found a source for these seals?

Third: The upper plate on the gearbox was broken getting it off of the boom. Has anyone had one of these made at a machine shop? Any issues?

As usual, thank you for your help and expertise.

Happy Sailing
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
St Michaels MD USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ballooner Not Locking

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Ian,

Happened to me once and it was because the ballooner and spinnaker lines were twisted… so as I raised the ballooner it did not lock into the mousetrap.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 10/18/18, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ballooner Not Locking
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, October 18, 2018, 1:53 AM


 









The last few times I have used my ballooner it has
failed to lock into

the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried
various

rotational positions other than the recommended one of the
slot facing

dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the
swivel should

be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as
the hook

nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches
before it

touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and
aluminium hooks

with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the
swivel looks

and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had
the genoa down

after the problem first appeared.



Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.



Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ballooner Not Locking

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi. The main swivel has a tongue going into the slot to locate it. Over time it wears through and no longer locates. I think you will find  this is your trouble. It is on a small plate held in place by two machine screws. Take this plate off and you will likely find the tongue is gone. Just get a new one made and welded on to the plate
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean pearl

On 18/10/2018 19:53, "Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)



Ballooner Not Locking

Ian Shepherd
 

The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Recommended charts for sailing the Bahamas

James Cromie
 

Thanks Bill and Danny for the insight!  
Best,
James

On Oct 17, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I have no experience in the Bahamas but in the Pacific islands particularly Fiji where all charts are very unreliable we find google earth on the smart phone an invaluable  back up.  By adding a gps link to the phone you get a real time picture of where you are and can see the boat in relation to reefs. I sail around difficult areas with the phone beside the helm. Invaluable. The fact the fIji has very good cell phone coverage is a big help. Like all navigation, use all available sources.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 18 October 2018 at 03:28 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Another perspective, with similar comments.  Basically, you can't have too many sources of information.


We have sailed the past two winters partly (or almost entirely!) in the Bahamas. and used three primary data sources for charts.  Combined with the standard cruising guide books (Important additions!)  we never felt lost.  None of the sources were "best" all the time, but combining them, thinking a bit, and adding some risk management we did fine.  

We unexpectedly ran aground only once, on a shifting sandbar in a channel that none of the charts had marked. The other times we bumped bottom we were feeling our way along and expected it based on what we saw on the charts.

We used the NV Chart paper chart books for planning, and cross checking the electronic data. We were very happy with them.  Not detailed in all the out of the way places, but excellent overall coverage. Relatively inexpensive, and easy to get a full set of paper coverage for the islands.  I am always happier with paper charts in hand.

The main chart plotter had the standard Navionics chip.  We found them no worse (and no better) then they are anywhere else. Sometimes with obvious errors that rudimentary quality control on the data should have found. We would definitely recommend NOT using the "Sonar Depths" crowd-sourced soundings for navigation.

We also used iSailor on the iPad. As a navigation tool, I dislike the iPad intensely, but as a separate source of information iSailor was great.  iSailor uses Transas chart data, on a subscription basis.  It was consistently the most reliable and detailed, although not always perfect.  Transas' primary customers are commercial ships, and in the past I have read that their coverage is meager in shallow or remote areas where shipping doesn't go.  We did not find that to be at all true--at least in the Bahamas and the USA east coast.

Enjoy the islands!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

 


 


 




Re: Leaking domestic water supply couplings

greatketch@...
 

Scott,

These fitting are sealed by the o-rings on the outer wall of the tubing, not the threads.  Teflon tape and pipe sealant will not help. If you have replaced the o-rings, the problem is most likely the tubing ends.

I would try trimming back the ends of the tubing. Take about 3/4 inch off so you use a new sealing surface.  It is important to get a nice smooth, square cut so use something very sharp.  Be sure the outside surface of the tubing ends are clean, free of dirt, and without scratches and nicks.

When you assemble it, use a very small amount of a food grade silicone grease to lubricate the tube end so the o-ring sits properly. I use Molykote 111, but there are others suitable as well. The grease is there so the o-ring does not roll, or get pinched, not as a sealant so just a tiny smear is all that is needed.

If it STILL leaks, then new fittings are probably needed.  Especially if they have been over tightened they can crack and not seal properly.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

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