Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] St Thomas Marinas or Moorings

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

$1495 for 15dec-15 Jan at Nanny Cay


On Oct 24, 2018, at 10:51 AM, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all in December I will be moving Trippin to the USVI's and am looking for a Marina or Mooring what I have found so far seems pretty pricey.  Would be Leaving the boat for 2 weeks at a time 4 weeks max would appreciate any and all Ideas and information.

Thanks in Advance
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] St Thomas Marinas or Moorings

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Hi Courtney,

We will be away from TouRai over The holidays and just booked a slip at Nanny Cay for the month on the recommendation of a long time VI cruiser. We had initially asked him for his recommendation in St Thomas as we will be flying in and out of there, and staying at Nanny on Tortola (BVI)and taking the ferry was his clear preference. I think the quote we got for the month was around 1600. I’ll confirm that after I send this. 

All the best,
Steve


On Oct 24, 2018, at 10:51 AM, Courtney Gorman Itsfun1@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all in December I will be moving Trippin to the USVI's and am looking for a Marina or Mooring what I have found so far seems pretty pricey.  Would be Leaving the boat for 2 weeks at a time 4 weeks max would appreciate any and all Ideas and information.

Thanks in Advance
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101

St Thomas Marinas or Moorings

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi all in December I will be moving Trippin to the USVI's and am looking for a Marina or Mooring what I have found so far seems pretty pricey.  Would be Leaving the boat for 2 weeks at a time 4 weeks max would appreciate any and all Ideas and information.
Thanks in Advance
Courtney
sv Trippin
54 #101

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] South Florida Surveyor?

 

For an "insurance survey" you might contact Paul Anstey at http://www.powerandsailboatsurveys.com/home.html 

For a "purchase survey" I only recommend Olivier Beaute <olivierbeaute@...

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Oct 23, 2018 at 6:24 PM smlocalola@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have contact info for a knowledgeable AMEL surveyor in South Florida? I need an insurance survey done.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

Mike Ondra
 

RockAuto has many shapes of “belt weatherstrip” or “beltline” that can be used to seal the companionway sliding hatch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body,weatherstrip,belt+weatherstrip+/+window+scraper+seal,12406

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2018 8:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Hi Kent,

 

I looked at the website of JC Whitney's and the items number nor the items name was found.

 

Are you sure about this company selling the gasket that fits the companion way?

 

Regards,

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM #351 KAVANGA

 

 

Op 20 okt. 2018 22:37 schreef "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

 

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.

 

No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.

 

Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 

 

 

On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?

It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.

I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous

Regards

Alan Grayson

SV Ora Pai SM 406

Ft Lauderdale

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

Willem Kroes
 

Hi Kent,

I looked at the website of JC Whitney's and the items number nor the items name was found.

Are you sure about this company selling the gasket that fits the companion way?

Regards,

Willem Kroes

SM #351 KAVANGA


Op 20 okt. 2018 22:37 schreef "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" :
 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.


Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter display

James Cromie
 

Bill - thank you so much for enlightening me. Yes, I'd love to see a photo ofyour set up of the sensor at the chain stripper.

Many thanks. 
James


On Oct 23, 2018 8:44 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

James,


The Quick unit uses a different sensor technology than the Amel OEM unit.  My understanding of the original sensor is that it is an inductive sensor where the moving magnet generates a pulse of electricity in the coil, while the Quick chain counter sensor is a simple magnetic reed switch, and the control head detects the switch closure when the magnet goes by.  

If the Quick did not come with a sensor (and I imagine it should have!) Quick sells a complete sensor kit for about US$25.  It is a tiny little thing, and easy to mount near the chain stripper.  Let me know if pictures would help, I can take some tomorrow.

You can use the existing wiring, any pair of conductors will do to carry the switch closure signal back to the control head.

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@..., <jamescromie@...> wrote :

Hello Amelians - 

I have been trying to figure out how to install a new chain counter display on  my 2002 Amel SM2K.  The original display from Pochon functions, but the LCD screen is barely readable.  I just replaced the sensor (though realized I didn't need to).  


I purchased a "Quick" Chain Counter, Model CHC 1203, as I saw another owner with the same display and I was told that it worked well.  I have tried to install this, but the unit does not seem to detect any input from the sensor.  It seems as though the original counter provides 10V to the sensor, whereas the "Quick" unit only provides about 3V.  I wonder if there is a simple wiring change that I need to make, or if this is hopeless without using a different sensor. 


Any help would be greatly appreciated.  If any of you have this type of chain counter display, I'd love to know how it is wired and if you use the standard sensor (IFM IB5124).  


Thanks in advance!


James

Soteria

Sm2K 347

Portsmouth, RI


Re: Chain counter display

greatketch@...
 

And a small update... The original inductive sensor used no magnets.  Just the metal mass of the "teeth" of the chain gypsy as they passed through the magnetic field generated by the coil. Clever, but a bit fragile and fussy.

Does not change the fact that it is incompatible with the QUICK control head, which does need magnets inset into the gypsy.  If anybody needs details, let me know.

Bill Kinney

Re: Chain counter display

greatketch@...
 

James,

The Quick unit uses a different sensor technology than the Amel OEM unit.  My understanding of the original sensor is that it is an inductive sensor where the moving magnet generates a pulse of electricity in the coil, while the Quick chain counter sensor is a simple magnetic reed switch, and the control head detects the switch closure when the magnet goes by.  

If the Quick did not come with a sensor (and I imagine it should have!) Quick sells a complete sensor kit for about US$25.  It is a tiny little thing, and easy to mount near the chain stripper.  Let me know if pictures would help, I can take some tomorrow.

You can use the existing wiring, any pair of conductors will do to carry the switch closure signal back to the control head.

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@..., <jamescromie@...> wrote :

Hello Amelians - 

I have been trying to figure out how to install a new chain counter display on  my 2002 Amel SM2K.  The original display from Pochon functions, but the LCD screen is barely readable.  I just replaced the sensor (though realized I didn't need to).  


I purchased a "Quick" Chain Counter, Model CHC 1203, as I saw another owner with the same display and I was told that it worked well.  I have tried to install this, but the unit does not seem to detect any input from the sensor.  It seems as though the original counter provides 10V to the sensor, whereas the "Quick" unit only provides about 3V.  I wonder if there is a simple wiring change that I need to make, or if this is hopeless without using a different sensor. 


Any help would be greatly appreciated.  If any of you have this type of chain counter display, I'd love to know how it is wired and if you use the standard sensor (IFM IB5124).  


Thanks in advance!


James

Soteria

Sm2K 347

Portsmouth, RI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] South Florida Surveyor?

Mark Erdos
 

Ian,

 

Dave Huffman knows Amels very well and did our survey at purchase: http://www.huffmanmarinesurveys.com

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2018 7:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] South Florida Surveyor?

 

 

Does anyone have contact info for a knowledgeable AMEL surveyor in South Florida? I need an insurance survey done.

Re: South Florida Surveyor?

Ian Townsend
 

Previous message from...

Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153
New River
Fort Lauderdale, FL

South Florida Surveyor?

Ian Townsend
 

Does anyone have contact info for a knowledgeable AMEL surveyor in South Florida? I need an insurance survey done.

Chain counter display

James Cromie
 

Hello Amelians - 

I have been trying to figure out how to install a new chain counter display on  my 2002 Amel SM2K.  The original display from Pochon functions, but the LCD screen is barely readable.  I just replaced the sensor (though realized I didn't need to).  


I purchased a "Quick" Chain Counter, Model CHC 1203, as I saw another owner with the same display and I was told that it worked well.  I have tried to install this, but the unit does not seem to detect any input from the sensor.  It seems as though the original counter provides 10V to the sensor, whereas the "Quick" unit only provides about 3V.  I wonder if there is a simple wiring change that I need to make, or if this is hopeless without using a different sensor. 


Any help would be greatly appreciated.  If any of you have this type of chain counter display, I'd love to know how it is wired and if you use the standard sensor (IFM IB5124).  


Thanks in advance!


James

Soteria

Sm2K 347

Portsmouth, RI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Not Locking [1 Attachment]

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Take a look at the file "Changing ball bearings ...". We had the same problem on Lady Annila a few years ago. The file I reffer to shows all parts and what was wrong with ours. Maybe it could help you.

Regards
Annsofie at S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

Skickat från min iPad

19 okt. 2018 kl. 00:18 skrev Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:



Hi. I attach a photo of the swivel with the tongue beside it. Second try.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 19 October 2018 at 07:02 "Danny Simms @Sailordan [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:





Hi Bill,
further to my last. The reason it won't be over the slot is because the tongue I described being worn off. I struggled with the same problem before it was pointed out to me by another amelian.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On Fri, 19 Oct 2018 at 04:37, greatketch@...<mailto:greatketch@...> [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


Ian,

I have found one issue you might have a look at. I am sure there are others that people with more Amel time than I have come across.

I haven't noticed it being sensitive to the exact height on the foil, although I haven't tested it much in that regard.

If latch actually works with all the parts in hand, it might be an alignment issue. Keep the lashing line from the head of the genoa very short, and be sure that the head swivel is rotating smoothly. You want to be sure that the latch stays directly over the proper slot in the foil. If it rotates off center a bit it doesn't latch.

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA




---In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners@...>, <sv_freespirit@...> wrote :

The last few times I have used my ballooner it has failed to lock into
the swivel. The halyard run looks normal and I have tried various
rotational positions other than the recommended one of the slot facing
dead aft. It still refuses to lock. I am wondering if the swivel should
be lower to offset the rearwards departure of the halyard as the hook
nears the top? I could only lower the genoa by a few inches before it
touches the pulpit rails. I have tried both my nylon and aluminium hooks
with and without the sail attached. The mousetrap on the swivel looks
and functions normally, or did a few weeks ago when I had the genoa down
after the problem first appeared.

Any thoughts please? I love using this sail.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003)












<20181019_072909.jpg>

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello again,

I read Craig's post and my last message was probably not clear enough.
Once full of water (as per the test we made at AMEL) a Super Maramu's cockpit  (when we unplugged the drain holes) drains in 75 seconds.
So, if the cockpit is flooded by a big wave, the water will not stay long enough to bring too much water in the hatch box. But some water may enter the engine room and the lockers (at least through the locking pin holes).

Feel safe and dry, this cockpit is not so much exposed as a stern cockpit.

Olivier

On Tuesday, October 23, 2018, 10:36:06 AM GMT+2, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Bill Kinney,

   Thanks, that is exactly the information that I was looking for.  I don't mind changing the lip seal when the flocking wears away.  The non silicone wax also sounds like a great idea that I will adopt. 

   Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena, Italy



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: 10/23/18 05:05 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In ame lyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polis h used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   Thanks, that is exactly the information that I was looking for.  I don't mind changing the lip seal when the flocking wears away.  The non silicone wax also sounds like a great idea that I will adopt. 

   Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena, Italy



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/23/18 05:05 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In ame lyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polis h used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] EPIRB mounting location

eric freedman
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

James Alton
 

Oliver,

   Many thanks for the confirmation of the drain holes for the companionway slider box being part of the original construction.  When I first got my Amel,  I noticed that a small amount of water, perhaps a quart that would collect in the bilge area under the steps if I was not careful to avoid spraying the compaionway slider while washing the boat. ( The licker seal on my boat currently is in poor shape and needs replacement by the way)  I investigated the inside of the slider box and initially it appeared to be sealed but after some careful cleaning I discovered two small drain holes around one quarter of an inch that were completely plugged with dirt that had collected over the years exactly as you described might be the case.  The holes were drilled at the extreme outboard ends of the slider box and angle down through the engine room bulkhead, exactly the position needed to drain all of the water from the box.   Once those holes were cleared, the leakage from spraying the compaionway slider completely went away despite my bad licker seal.  I will soon replace the licker seal and make keeping those drain holes open a part of my normal maitenance.  Thank you Amel for installing the huge cockpit drains and also for installing the sliding companionway door instead of using drop boards!

All the best,
James



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/22/18 20:14 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water u p to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

&n bsp;  You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway be cause we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

greatketch@...
 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   

EPIRB mounting location

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I bought an ARC GlobalFix Pro with the SeaShelter mounting bracket (the kind that auto-releases if the boat sinks).  It's designed to mount to a vertical part of the hull... aside from not having much of a good spot, I don't relish the idea of screwing into the hull.  Surely, some of you must own this same EPIRB.  Where did you mount it?  I'm thinking of rigging up a rail mount.

Thanks,

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA