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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wash your- Main outhaul rope

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Eric. I have bought another dyneema 12mm line with a more abrasive outer. I will try that but thanks for the tip.
Regards
Danny
Sm 299 ocean pearl

On 16/11/2018 11:06, "eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

If you have Dyneema, try washing it in a porous bag in a washing machine.
The fabrication process makes the surface "oily' . Once washed it is much more useful and not so slippery.
Fair winds,
eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite.
Simpson Bay St Maarten


On Thu, Nov 01, 2018 at 01:34 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hi Bill,

I was on the boat yesterday and tried tightening to line. While it had been pretty tight before I did manage to get a bit more out of it. It is tighter now than I think would be good for bearings. I will try it next time I go out and see if it still slips.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 02 November 2018 at 01:57 "Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Thanks for that. I guess some Dyneema rope is slipperier than other. I will start recommending Vectran.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Oct 31, 2018, 19:28 Danny Simms sailorman.ds@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

 

Hi Bill, yes bar tight. And I couldn't believe how fast and far it slipped in 18 knots of wind Thanks for the page
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean pearl

On Thu, 1 Nov 2018 at 09:23, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 

Danny, maybe it wasn't tight enough. I know at least 10 others that have not had the problem. Did you use the outhaul to really get it tight?

I am sending you a page out of my book.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
 Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 2:14 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 

Hi Bill,

yes I tried to get Kevlar and had to take dyneema 12mm. I fitted it very tightly but useless, as soon as the breeze came up it slipped dramatically. I agree with you about it diminishing in diameter but I think the casing is very slick too. It would seem 14mm might be a try but I doubt if it will work. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean pearl

On 01 November 2018 at 07:37 "Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners]" < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Danny,

Amel used Kevlar 10mm on the SM. It is nearly impossible to find.

Amel suggests 12mm Dyneema:
The issue was not with the strength because Dyneema line is stronger than Kevlar. The issue is that most rope manufacturers are taking fiber from the middle of the rope and 10mm isn't really 10mm anymore. I purchased some 10mm that I could squeeze with my fingers to 7mm. Look at the Anderson Line Tender. You will see that if you can squeeze 10mm to 7mm, the line will certainly slip.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
 Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 12:31 PM Danny Simms sailorman.ds@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 

Hi All,
A little while ago a number of you posted on replacing the control line for the mainsail out haul. I remember dyneema was not successful. Can some one remind me of what type was the best.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

 

 

 

 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 


 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rocna anchor

CW Bill Rouse
 

Please remember that not all bow rollers are the same on all SMs.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 4:07 PM Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I am very happy with my 40kg Rocna.  Snugs up nicely on the bow roller, sets and holds better than anything else I’ve used.


Kent
SM243
Kristy
Still stuck in snowy rainy cold Maryland...wondering if we’ll ever get out of here.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Nov 15, 2018, at 3:04 PM, arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

You who use The Rocna anchor and are sailing an SM wich size are working best?


Kind regards

Arthur Sundqvist

SM 435, Vista
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

John Clark
 

Agree with Dan, my TMD-22 4500hrs at 2016 survey with clean hull and prop maxed at 2750rpm at 7.5kts.  Just before haulout this year with  some minor hull growth, and a few barnacles on the fixed prop she was down to 2400 rpm and 5 kts top speed.  After we relaunched with fresh paint and clean prop she was right back to survey performance.    If the new Volvo has a computer I would rather stick with the TMD-22 or look for something without a computer.   The TMD-22 may not be as high performance as a brand new engine but it is reliable at least it has been for me the last two years.

John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Le Marin


On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 2:58 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


---------- Original Message ----------
I got a notice this had not gone through, so here again

Danny


Hi Graham,

another year and still fine. 850 hours on the clock. Early on there was an issue with the turbo and it was replaced under warranty and has been OK since. As I have said before fitting a new engine you will pay as much for the fitting as you do for the motor itself. I avoided that by sitting right on top of the process and doing most of the physical unbuttoning of the old engine and helping where I could with the install. It had identical spacing of the engine mount holes so we just had to make spacers to give the exact height. No alignment problems at all, it just slipped into place. . Had to have a bracket made to take the 24 volt house bank alternator. There was no neat spot for it like the TMD 22 so the bracket is on the front of the motor. You will be amazed at the quantum of the wiring looms that come with it, but I guess that applies to any engine. Given my time over I would do the rebuild, putting a new engine in is a complex business but I have no complaint about the D2 -75. One interesting thing. The TMD was very sensitive to fouling on the autoprop, losing revs, this motor seems impervious, the prop can be covered in barnacles and it still does its 3000 rpm. I can only assume it has a powerful governor that calls on spare power.

As to your revs with the TMD 22. 2800 IS THE CORRECT RPM UNDER LOAD. i'LL SAY IT AGAIN. 2800 IS THE CORRECT RPM UNDER LOAD. Do not replace your engine if that is your "problem" Yes it will cheerfully spin up to 4000 rpm in neutral but 2800 is what you get under load.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 14 November 2018 at 17:07 "crwggb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danny,

You are now a further year in with your Volvo D2-75. How is it going?

I would love to do a rebuild of the TMD22 but it's not vaguely economical here in Hong Kong.

After everything Ive read on the Amel forum I was more of less convinced that the D2-75 was the engine for me too. As such have been googling this engine for reliability and the reading is not good concerning the mechanical data interface unit, some of which it appears Volvo have just recalled. They are now onto their 6th version of the MDI. Have you had any trouble with this item. Although this engine claims to be "electronics free" it's actually not.

Yanmar are quite hard to deal with when it comes to the isolated negative earth with huge lead times, which has got me running back to Beta ....which is where I actually started.

The Beta man looked at the SM and the power curves for the TMD22A. None of us have ever got that engine above 2800 rpm which is actually at best 60HP! 78 HP doesn't occur until 4500rpm. We have all been sailing round the world quite happily with that out put for many years. He suggested to me the BETA 60 was the the ideal replacement as it almost exactly replicates that part of the TMD22A power curve that we've only ever been able to use but at a higher torque. These days every one seems determined to put bigger and bigger engines in their boats, but I'm not convinced!

If you've time I'd love to hear how your D2-75 is going?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong


 


 


 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rocna anchor

karkauai
 

I am very happy with my 40kg Rocna.  Snugs up nicely on the bow roller, sets and holds better than anything else I’ve used.

Kent
SM243
Kristy
Still stuck in snowy rainy cold Maryland...wondering if we’ll ever get out of here.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Nov 15, 2018, at 3:04 PM, arthur@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

You who use The Rocna anchor and are sailing an SM wich size are working best?


Kind regards

Arthur Sundqvist

SM 435, Vista
Wash your- Main outhaul rope

eric freedman
 

Rocna anchor

Arthur Sundqvist
 

You who use The Rocna anchor and are sailing an SM wich size are working best?


Kind regards

Arthur Sundqvist

SM 435, Vista
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 


---------- Original Message ----------
I got a notice this had not gone through, so here again

Danny


Hi Graham,

another year and still fine. 850 hours on the clock. Early on there was an issue with the turbo and it was replaced under warranty and has been OK since. As I have said before fitting a new engine you will pay as much for the fitting as you do for the motor itself. I avoided that by sitting right on top of the process and doing most of the physical unbuttoning of the old engine and helping where I could with the install. It had identical spacing of the engine mount holes so we just had to make spacers to give the exact height. No alignment problems at all, it just slipped into place. . Had to have a bracket made to take the 24 volt house bank alternator. There was no neat spot for it like the TMD 22 so the bracket is on the front of the motor. You will be amazed at the quantum of the wiring looms that come with it, but I guess that applies to any engine. Given my time over I would do the rebuild, putting a new engine in is a complex business but I have no complaint about the D2 -75. One interesting thing. The TMD was very sensitive to fouling on the autoprop, losing revs, this motor seems impervious, the prop can be covered in barnacles and it still does its 3000 rpm. I can only assume it has a powerful governor that calls on spare power.

As to your revs with the TMD 22. 2800 IS THE CORRECT RPM UNDER LOAD. i'LL SAY IT AGAIN. 2800 IS THE CORRECT RPM UNDER LOAD. Do not replace your engine if that is your "problem" Yes it will cheerfully spin up to 4000 rpm in neutral but 2800 is what you get under load.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 14 November 2018 at 17:07 "crwggb@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danny,

You are now a further year in with your Volvo D2-75. How is it going?

I would love to do a rebuild of the TMD22 but it's not vaguely economical here in Hong Kong.

After everything Ive read on the Amel forum I was more of less convinced that the D2-75 was the engine for me too. As such have been googling this engine for reliability and the reading is not good concerning the mechanical data interface unit, some of which it appears Volvo have just recalled. They are now onto their 6th version of the MDI. Have you had any trouble with this item. Although this engine claims to be "electronics free" it's actually not.

Yanmar are quite hard to deal with when it comes to the isolated negative earth with huge lead times, which has got me running back to Beta ....which is where I actually started.

The Beta man looked at the SM and the power curves for the TMD22A. None of us have ever got that engine above 2800 rpm which is actually at best 60HP! 78 HP doesn't occur until 4500rpm. We have all been sailing round the world quite happily with that out put for many years. He suggested to me the BETA 60 was the the ideal replacement as it almost exactly replicates that part of the TMD22A power curve that we've only ever been able to use but at a higher torque. These days every one seems determined to put bigger and bigger engines in their boats, but I'm not convinced!

If you've time I'd love to hear how your D2-75 is going?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong


 


 


 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Mark Erdos
 

Jim,

 

The math is not quite correct. If you have 8 batteries, that is 4 sets of two batteries. When you connect 2 batteries to get 24v this doesn’t increase the Ah. Hence, you have 440 total Ah and at 40% usage this equates to 176 usable Ah.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 1:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

 

 

If my math is right and if your SM is equipped with 8  110Ah batteries and you are drawing 0.1 Amps continuously then theoretically it would take 146 days,16 hours to run your batteries down to 60% charged.

 

If you were drawing 0.2A then it would be half of that, 73 days, 8 hours.

 

For the 12 battery  "comfort pak" model it would be 220 days and 110 days, respectively.

 

8 X 110 = 880 Total Ah

880 X 40% = 352 Usable Ah

352/0.1 = 3,520 hours available at 0.1A draw

3520/24 = 146.66 Days

 

Hope that helps, or is at least mildly interesting trivia,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul
Power Draw at anchor-redux

Thomas Peacock
 

Thanks to all for your thoughts. I'll briefly summarize what I have found.


I suspect that for most of you, it's not a big concern. You are either living aboard, in a slip with 220 volts, have at least a small solar panel, or are not as obsessive/compulsive as I am. Our situation is one of leaving the boat in a very secure mooring ball field in St Augustine. In the past, after six weeks of not being there, the house batteries used to be down to about 30% of normal. Not a huge concern, certainly deep cycle batteries can handle that. However, I always found it unsettling that I did not know what the unknown draw was. I do not recall what the Mastervolt showed at that time.

I had in the past ascribed the battery loss to the "permanent" 24 v -> 12 v Sailor transformer. However, I have bypassed and defused that particular device (ours do not have on/off switches as pictured in the SM manual). I was then down to 0.2 amp draw by the Mastervolt, but that it still 200 amp-hours in six weeks. Where was it going?

The fuel gauge was a very silent partner in that phenomenon. I consider myself lucky that I discovered that it was drawing power, it isn't something that comes to mind easily. Again, it is a mystery to me how it is wired. The wires seemingly go into the engine room, but are not visible there; I suspect they are under the foam sound insulation. I can find no breaker that will de-power the gauge; I can find no fuse near the batteries that would be intended for it. Throwing the large battery switches will de-power it, and also take the amp draw down to 0.0.

Undoing the wires to the gauge drops the amp draw from 0.2 to 0.1. Bill Rouse suggests that may be "margin of error" by the Mastervolt, which may be the case, although it seems to be a very solidly engineered device. My sense is that there is still some device on board that is "parasitizing" the electrical system. 


For now, she is on the mooring ball, drawing 0.1 amps. The large battery switches are on, as turning them off will also de-power the bilge pump. I will see what the total draw is in 6 weeks,


Still a nagging question for me is the wiring for the fuel gauge. We have a LaRochelle electrical diagram on board, but it does not include the gauge. Just for my own curiosity, would appreciate any insights on that topic. 


Thanks as always

Tom Peacock

Aletes SM 240 St Augustine Florida
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Resealing fixed portlights

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Scott,
Brother Joel Potter provided this answer a few years ago with respect to the off-white edges of the dodger windows. Undoubtedly it's the same for your black. The secret? It's not paint - Amel simply used gelcoat on the acrylic. Much more durable than any paint. Let it cure and then do your silicon (or whatever) bonding. 
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce FL USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

No, I don't have a direct answer to your question, but I know that the black paint was applied so that you didn't see the glue and fiberglass when looking down (inward) at the edges of the installed Portlight.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 10:25 AM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

I thought the same thing but refrained about asking how the bilge pump would help without a method of charging the batteries. In the case of water intrusion it will only run for so long and then the inevitable happens once the batteries are dead. So why not just disconnect the battery bank to remove any drain or add a solar charger if this is not ideal.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:05 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

 

 

Tom,

 

If your bilge pump does kick on for any reason, what do you have to recharge your batteries?  If you don't have solar panels, you might want to consider installing one to provide a daily trickle charge, then you don't have to worry too much about a zero drain.

 

Dennis Johns

Libertad

Maramu 121
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Resealing fixed portlights

CW Bill Rouse
 

No, I don't have a direct answer to your question, but I know that the black paint was applied so that you didn't see the glue and fiberglass when looking down (inward) at the edges of the installed Portlight.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 10:25 AM cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"
Re: Power draw at anchor

sbmesasailor
 

Tom,

If your bilge pump does kick on for any reason, what do you have to recharge your batteries?  If you don't have solar panels, you might want to consider installing one to provide a daily trickle charge, then you don't have to worry too much about a zero drain.

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121
Resealing fixed portlights

cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
 

Hi all,


One of our fixed portlights was leaking a bit and we decided to tackle the job ourselves as the boatyard called it "a labor of love" of which they were not interested in doing. Possibly a blessing in disguise!


Removing it wasn't too difficult but now we need to prepare to re-install it. :) Has anyone done this before and can give us some tips?


Our intent is to abrade the old silicon off with a knife / chisel. The problem is that we're starting to remove the black paint underneath. Any idea what's the best replacement for this black paint on the acrylic?


We intend to clean the acrylic with isopropyl alcohol and then the fiberglass flange with acetone to try to remove all traces of the old silicone.


Our intent is to get it as clean as possible and then re-seal with silicone. The original installation had quite a thin layer of silicone, so I am thinking silicone was simply applied to the acrylic and then the panel screwed onto the flange pretty soon after that.


Would it be better to allow it to cure a bit before screwing it down completely? 


Thanks in advance for any tips and anything we didn't think of.


Scott

Amel 54 #69 "Tengah"
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Porter McRoberts
 

Throw the breakers and check. Quite likely the bilge is still hot. 

Porter

54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 13, 2018, at 7:30 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So, I guess that means the SM's don't have a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it ALWAYS works !! 

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero......

 I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?.................

Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

SM have the fuel stick.
But in addition they have a fuel gage.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/13/18, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Power draw at anchor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 13, 2018, 6:30 PM


 









So, I guess that means the SM's don't have
a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't
even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it
ALWAYS works !! Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
<peacock8491@...> wrote :

We
are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get
my electric usage to near zero......
 I then noticed that
the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power
from?.................


Thanks as always to all in this group.



Tom Peacock

Aletes SM 240

St Augustine Florida
Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Graham Boyd
 

Danny,

You are now a further year in with your Volvo D2-75. How is it going?

I would love to do a rebuild of the TMD22 but it's not vaguely economical here in Hong Kong.

After everything Ive read on the Amel forum I was more of less convinced that the D2-75 was the engine for me too. As such have been googling this engine for reliability and the reading is not good concerning the mechanical data interface unit, some of which it appears Volvo have just recalled. They are now onto their 6th version of the MDI. Have you had any trouble with this item. Although this engine claims to be "electronics free" it's actually not.

Yanmar are quite hard to deal with when it comes to the isolated negative earth with huge lead times, which has got me running back to Beta ....which is where I actually started.

The Beta man looked at the SM and the power curves for the TMD22A. None of us have ever got that engine above 2800 rpm which is actually at best 60HP! 78 HP doesn't occur until 4500rpm. We have all been sailing round the world quite happily with that out put for many years. He suggested to me the BETA 60 was the the ideal replacement as it almost exactly replicates that part of the TMD22A power curve that we've only ever been able to use but at a higher torque. These days every one seems determined to put bigger and bigger engines in their boats, but I'm not convinced!

If you've time I'd love to hear how your D2-75 is going?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong
Re: Power draw at anchor

Craig Briggs
 

So, I guess that means the SM's don't have a fuel dip stick like the SN's? We SN's don't even sip electricity for reading the fuel level and it ALWAYS works !! 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <peacock8491@...> wrote :

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero......

 I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works.........

Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?.................

Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

amelforme
 

If you still have the original 24 to 12 volt transformers, the one marked “ PERMANENT” is hard wired to the batteries and draws power 24/7 unless you turn it off. Its purpose is to preserve volatile memory in devices like the stereo radio station memory function.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 1:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

 

 

Tom,

 

I don't think you have a "Voltmaster/Batman," rather you may have a Mastervolt Battman😁. Your boat originally came with a Xantrex Link 10.

 

I think you can get it to read amps alternating between zero and 0.1. As you know the battery monitor will use a minute amount. Also, it is possible that your monitor is not totally accurate. And, remember the shunt on your monitor is not totally accurate to zero. It will have a small resolution. I don't know about the Battman, but the OEM SM Xantrex Link 10 has a 0.1 amp resolution. 

 

So, if you are using the battery monitor to determine the point that you have zero amps, you're probably using the wrong thing. In fact, with the permanent OFF and a monitor reading between 0 and 0.2, you are probably there.

 

I hope this helps you. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018, 11:57 peacock8491@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:

 

We are leaving St Augustine for a month, and I am trying to get my electric usage to near zero. I could only get it down to 0.2 amps (as measured by the Voltmaster/Batman). All breakers are off (at least the ones I am aware of). I have taken the “permanent” Sailor 24>12 volt transformer out entirely, fuse removed. I then noticed that the fuel gauge still works. I could not trace the wires. There seems to be 19 volts at the gauge, but one of the hot wires comes into a resistor. If I disconnect the feed, the boat power usage does go down to 0.1 alternating with 0.2.
Two questions:
Any idea where the fuel gauge gets its power from?
Any idea how to get the amps down to zero?
Thanks as always to all in this group.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine Florida
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Power draw at anchor

Thomas Peacock
 

Thanks as always for insights.
Yes, Bill, I have Mastervolt, not Voltmaster. The Xantrex looks awfully similar, different name for same product?
I don’t want to disconnect my batteries, nor do I want to throw the battery breakers. The bilge pump won’t run then.
Maybe 0.1 is all i can get. The Mastervolt draws only 7 milleamps.

Still unresolved electrical properties of the fuel gauge. It does not work when the battery breakers are thrown. However, I cannot find an appropriate breaker to disengage it. I do not see a fused line that might be the power either. I find that a little disconcerting. Would appreciate any thoughts on that.

Thanks,
Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida
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