Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

 Hello and thanks for the answer. I have a folding propeller but no brake
Heinz

Am 20.11.2018 09:35 schrieb "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi Heinz,

Do you have an autoprop with a disk brake on the shaft?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 8:35 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox

 

 

hello,
After 5 months in the drydock in Panama I noticed that an Oel-water mixture was leaking out of the gearbox. I had the seals and the oil changed by Amel in Martinique a year ago. Now I can't turn the propeller by hand.
Is that normal or does anyone know what to do?
I am grateful for every suggestion.
All the best
Heinz
Amel SM200, 292



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salon mod

Steve Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

I can tell you that my SM 380 TouRai, was built with a full length settee in place of the loveseat, end table configuration.  This boat was built with several factory built differences for a legacy buyer who was quite tall.

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM 380 TouRai
BVI

On Nov 8, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Jay Hosford jay.hosford@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hey Bill,

Just saw a sm that had the salon love seat, cabinets and pull out birth replaced with a traditional settee.   Am i correct that this was never an option and was a mod done by the owner?   I do think it would be more practical than the pull out but it may not be very “Amel” aproved.


On Nov 5, 2018, at 5:31 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Wolfgang,

There are a lot of birds in Deltaville and will surely find your beautiful 54. Other than that, it is a safe place.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 3:22 PM webercardio webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello to the group,
The first days of january I will start the atlantic crossing from Lanzarote via Cape Verde. We hope to sail upnorth to Virginia from the Caribbean sea and leave the boat in Deltaville? From the middle of May  until beginning of August.Then starting upnorth to Newengland or Nova Scotia and return back to Virginia in October, waiting for the next season in the Caribbean sea.
Any recommendations or advices,  safe place to leave the boat ?

Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162





Re: Adding weight to the bow

Craig Briggs
 

Just do what the power boaters do and add lead forward, or in the starboard hanging locker (where you might also keep your tools.) And/or add another 1 or 2 hundred feet of chain. Don't know if you've got a fixed bimini over the cockpit but if so that could be an alternate solar panel location, eliminating the arch.
Good luck with it.
Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ericmeury@...> wrote :

This has been going on sometime and seem to be a "common problem" but my santorin is ass heavy and we made the issue worse last year when we added 4 L16 batteries to the engine room and installed the hydrovane.  We want to add an Arch mainly for getting the solar panels off the deck behind the mast since we have a new crew member.

The fwd head thru hull is pretty much fully exposed our of the water about an inch.  We have the rocna 33kg mounted on the bow with 190 feet of chain.  and a the original CQR sitting in the the stb fwd locker.

Spare parts are mid ship under the birth and the passage way to the aft cabin carries the tools.  I do plan on moving those to the forward hanging locker.

What else an be done?

Looking for ideas before we add the arch


Re: Genoa sheet sizing

Craig Briggs
 


Here's an appealing way with a soft shackle:

Or just form a loop in the middle of a single long line, put it through the clew cringle and pass the rest of the line through that, pulling snug. Hard to remove (mine's been on for seasons) but no hangups. No seizing needed. And 14mm should be fine.
Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smilesbernard@...> wrote :

Hi there

My Genoa sheets need replacing
Currently I have 16mm polyester
they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc.
So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds

My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars

Thoughts and experience most appreciated.

All the very best
Miles


Re: Resealing fixed portlights

cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
 

Update: it was pretty easy to do, just a bit time consuming.

Use a utility knife around the edges of the arcylic/GRP portlight flange and slowly open it up. We put small wedges to hold a gap between the acrylic and GRP to ease further cutting. The thickness of the GRP means there is very little risk of breaking the lens, IMO.

Being that it's silicone, the sealant released quite easily with a little leverage once you got far enough around.

Once it was off, the real work began.  We spent a lot of time cleaning off the old silicone with a wood chisel to get the big pieces off. Then it was fingernails and rubbing with your fingers. A trick I learned was to rub a flour/water paste on the surfaces to highlight any small areas you may have missed. The flour sticks to the silicone and makes it very apparent what you have missed!

Final cleanse with microfiber and rubbing alcohol and then apply a LOT of silicone (most of a 300ml tube) and screw the lens back on, using opposite corners. I asked Olivier if we needed to let the silicone set a bit to avoid it all squeezing out when you tighten the 8 screws, but he said that Amel screws it down immediately to fill all the gaps and we should do the same. :)

I considered using Sika 291i but found that a lot of those adhesive/sealants are not compatible with acrylic. We could have used Sika 295 UV, but the preparation was far more involved and the seal would fail unless it's done perfectly. If silicone was good enough for the Amel Shipyard, it's good enough for me!

Ps - I didn't bother taping the lens or the outside of the portlight opening. Silicone doesn't really stick well to either, so getting off the excess was quite easy. 

PPS - When I was asking around for tips on doing it, the other boat owners who looked at the portlight said the same thing most people say when they see my Amel up close: "Wow, they made that really robust!" 

Hope this helps someone...

-Scott
Amel 54 #69 Tengah



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox

eric freedman
 

Hi Heinz,

Do you have an autoprop with a disk brake on the shaft?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 8:35 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox

 

 

hello,
After 5 months in the drydock in Panama I noticed that an Oel-water mixture was leaking out of the gearbox. I had the seals and the oil changed by Amel in Martinique a year ago. Now I can't turn the propeller by hand.
Is that normal or does anyone know what to do?
I am grateful for every suggestion.
All the best
Heinz
Amel SM200, 292


Gearbox

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

hello,
After 5 months in the drydock in Panama I noticed that an Oel-water mixture was leaking out of the gearbox. I had the seals and the oil changed by Amel in Martinique a year ago. Now I can't turn the propeller by hand.
Is that normal or does anyone know what to do?
I am grateful for every suggestion.
All the best
Heinz
Amel SM200, 292


Re: Genoa sheet sizing

greatketch@...
 

Miles,

Harken has a quick and dirty online calculator for expected sail loads as a function of wind strength here:


The tough part is extending that number to a line size.  Lines are all rated in breaking strength, and translating that to a maximum safe working load isn't so straightforward.  New England Ropes suggests that a safe Working Load Limit 1/5 to 1/12 of the breaking strength of the line.  A range so wide as to not be a lot of help.

Being very conservative, and assuming you carry full 60m^2 of sail in winds of 30 knots, and then reef after that, 14mm looks strong enough to carry the loads without exceeding a reasonable WLL.

It will of course stretch a bit more than 16mm, and then will have less reserve strength as the cover chafes.

I attach my sheets to the head sail with a simple larkshead.  With polyester double braid line it does not slip, and slides past standing rigging without a thought.  The downside is that after sailing a few thousand miles is is REALLY hard to untie.  It can be undone with a hammer and a bit of patience (or a knife)...

We use 16mm headsail sheets on our SM, and have found no incentive to change that, but of course our turning blocks and cars might be different, and your genoa is a bit smaller.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Back in the water tomorrow!  Yeah!



---In amelyachtowners@..., <smilesbernard@...> wrote :

Hi there

My Genoa sheets need replacing
Currently I have 16mm polyester
they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc.
So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds

My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars

Thoughts and experience most appreciated.

All the very best
Miles


Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Bill, much appreciated!

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Genoa sheet sizing

smiles bernard
 

Hi there

My Genoa sheets need replacing
Currently I have 16mm polyester
they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc.
So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds

My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars

Thoughts and experience most appreciated.

All the very best
Miles


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

 

Very impressed! I spent days searching the internet for one of these a couple of years ago and never did find one.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2018 11:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

 

 

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:45 AM Stephen Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/catalog/item.aspx?sku=24136

 

Reducer couplings are fairly straightforward but can be challenging to find when you need one. 

 

I mounted my Viking beside (tankside of) my Amfa and intend to put it on a switchable y and connected to the the 1-1/2 supply outflow line of my MK5 manual pump. The Viking is only there as a backup to the Amfa at this point and has spade ends on the wires so I can swap power quickly. 

 

All the best,

Steve Morrison

SM380 TouRai

Hampton, VA


On Nov 1, 2018, at 3:26 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If you replaced AMFA Bilge Pump with a Johnson Viking Power 32, how did you connect the 1.5" hose connections to the 30mm hose on the Amel SM?  

 

It would seem easy enough to replace the 30mm hose with 1.5" diameter, but where the outlet hooks up to the main line going overboard, there is a fitting with a total of three lines coming in and one going out.  I wouldn't want to replace that....

 

I checked with the manufacturer, the hose barbs are molded into the pump body and cannot be replaced.  So it seems the best thing to do would be to:

 

1. replace the 30mm hose that goes into the sump with 1.5" diameter hose with a new check valve at the bottom.

 

2. find a 1.5" diameter to 1.25" diameter hose barb adapter to connect the outlet to the old hose.  I have not been successful in finding one of these.  If this is what you did can you t ell me where to look for one?

 

Thanks for your help,

Duane

 

 

 

 


Adding weight to the bow

ericmeury@...
 

This has been going on sometime and seem to be a "common problem" but my santorin is ass heavy and we made the issue worse last year when we added 4 L16 batteries to the engine room and installed the hydrovane.  We want to add an Arch mainly for getting the solar panels off the deck behind the mast since we have a new crew member.

The fwd head thru hull is pretty much fully exposed our of the water about an inch.  We have the rocna 33kg mounted on the bow with 190 feet of chain.  and a the original CQR sitting in the the stb fwd locker.

Spare parts are mid ship under the birth and the passage way to the aft cabin carries the tools.  I do plan on moving those to the forward hanging locker.

What else an be done?

Looking for ideas before we add the arch


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:45 AM Stephen Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/catalog/item.aspx?sku=24136


Reducer couplings are fairly straightforward but can be challenging to find when you need one. 

I mounted my Viking beside (tankside of) my Amfa and intend to put it on a switchable y and connected to the the 1-1/2 supply outflow line of my MK5 manual pump. The Viking is only there as a backup to the Amfa at this point and has spade ends on the wires so I can swap power quickly. 

All the best,
Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Hampton, VA


On Nov 1, 2018, at 3:26 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If you replaced AMFA Bilge Pump with a Johnson Viking Power 32, how did you connect the 1.5" hose connections to the 30mm hose on the Amel SM?  


It would seem easy enough to replace the 30mm hose with 1.5" diameter, but where the outlet hooks up to the main line going overboard, there is a fitting with a total of three lines coming in and one going out.  I wouldn't want to replace that...

I checked with the manufacturer, the hose barbs are molded into the pump body and cannot be replaced.  So it seems the best thing to do would be to:

1. replace the 30mm hose that goes into the sump with 1.5" diameter hose with a new check valve at the bottom.

2. find a 1.5" diameter to 1.25" diameter hose barb adapter to connect the outlet to the old hose.  I have not been successful in finding one of these.  If this is what you did can you t ell me where to look for one?

Thanks for your help,
Duane





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.

 

Duane,


I have not found another source, but this is probably exactly what you need along with a short piece of 1 1/4" or 32mm hose

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Nov 1, 2018 at 8:10 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

If you replaced AMFA Bilge Pump with a Johnson Viking Power 32, how did you connect the 1.5" hose connections to the 30mm hose on the Amel SM?  


It would seem easy enough to replace the 30mm hose with 1.5" diameter, but where the outlet hooks up to the main line going overboard, there is a fitting with a total of three lines coming in and one going out.  I wouldn't want to replace that...

I checked with the manufacturer, the hose barbs are molded into the pump body and cannot be replaced.  So it seems the best thing to do would be to:

1. replace the 30mm hose that goes into the sump with 1.5" diameter hose with a new check valve at the bottom.

2. find a 1.5" diameter to 1.25" diameter hose barb adapter to connect the outlet to the old hose.  I have not been successful in finding one of these.  If this is what you did can you tell me where to look for one?

Thanks for your help,
Duane





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: mizzen furler failure

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Gary, 

Thanks for your input!

I’m looking forward to reading your tear down and rebuild article when it’s ready. It’ll help me understand about the drain holes you mention at the bottom of the canister. I don’t see what you are referring to. 

Best,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Cartagena, Colombia 

On Tue, 6 Nov 2018 at 11:05, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

DANNY:

Do NOT add a grease nipple to the mizzen furling gearbox. The box is designed to run with minimal grease and adding more will accrete salt & dirt accumulations. I undertook a laborious complete overhaul of my gearbox (better termed a gear cannister as it is all cylindrical), and came away impressed with it’s elegant simplicity and lack of need for lube. Also came away with knowledge that my teardown wasn’t needed. Thirough and frequent rinsing with fresh water is the best maintenance. I will write up a complete teardown and re-build article shortly. In the meantime, just start rinsing the shaft area with fresh water, also run fresh water into the gap at the top of the cylinder, it will flush the delrin bearings and drain out the two drain holes on the bottom of the cannister. If your gearbox is frozen it is almost assuredly at the winch handle shaft. The shaft is two pieces and rides within teflon or HDPE sleeves. Binding is due to salt & dirt accretions. Hence the need for copious fresh water rinsing. Again, DO NOT add grease, More soon.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
AMEL SM 2000 # 335
On the hard, Puerto Del Rey
Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Graham Boyd
 

Thanks Bill, yes, as you said Beta appear to be are very easy to deal with in this dept. 

Graham


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

 

Graham,

Beta offers the option of "isolated negative." Be sure that they spec this option for your repower.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sat, Nov 17, 2018 at 2:40 AM crwggb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your thoughts. Oddly enough your email beautifully summarises all my niggling doubts and questions that I will be presenting to the Beta man when we meet on Monday. After all 2 years ago it was him who suggested looking closely at the 60. I got an email from him this morning with all sorts of suggestions for fitting a 75!! So I am now pouring over those curves and gear box options.

I was concerned about the quantum leap in torque on the 75 and it's affect on the C drive, and fitting will be more of a fiddle, but I got also an email from the "go to" Amel man in the South of France who said only boats built in 89/91 need worry about that.

As you have pointed out in a previous post the weight increase on the 75 is not insignificant. I guess it all comes down to how one views this; in the aviation industry 2 passengers and their bags is always viewed as 200kg. So I guess it's like sailing around with 2 extra crew!.... or

I too will be interested in where this all ends up....I'll keep you posted.

Graham
Sula
SM140


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu

Graham Boyd
 

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your thoughts. Oddly enough your email beautifully summarises all my niggling doubts and questions that I will be presenting to the Beta man when we meet on Monday. After all 2 years ago it was him who suggested looking closely at the 60. I got an email from him this morning with all sorts of suggestions for fitting a 75!! So I am now pouring over those curves and gear box options.

I was concerned about the quantum leap in torque on the 75 and it's affect on the C drive, and fitting will be more of a fiddle, but I got also an email from the "go to" Amel man in the South of France who said only boats built in 89/91 need worry about that.

As you have pointed out in a previous post the weight increase on the 75 is not insignificant. I guess it all comes down to how one views this; in the aviation industry 2 passengers and their bags is always viewed as 200kg. So I guess it's like sailing around with 2 extra crew!.... or

I too will be interested in where this all ends up....I'll keep you posted.

Graham
Sula
SM140


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Roller Removal...

greatketch@...
 

Having just disassembled all of the various stainless bits from the bow of Harmonie for resealing, polishing, and inspection I can confirm that the axles for the anchor rollers are welded to the side plates. They pass through holes in the plates, and are then welded around the edges.  

A bolt would have been so very much easier...  Except for that detail, it is a nice, simple, robust design.  Other than needing rebedding, polishing, and a few pieces of hardware that had corrosion issues, things looked great.

I know that there was at least one major redesign of the SM bow roller system after our boat was built, so yours might be different...

Hopefully in a week or two we'll have pictures of the "new and improved", or at the very least, newly shiny, bow. Water intrusion into the port side locker should be greatly reduced.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
On the hard for another four days.


Re: Power draw at anchor

Jim Anderson
 

Mark, Thanks you for the correction. My math was for 12V rather than 24. So hopefully the following is correct:


If your SM is equipped with 8  12V, 110Ah batteries and you are drawing 0.1 Amps continuously at 24V then theoretically it would take 73 days, 8 hours to run your batteries down to 60% charged.

 

If you were drawing 0.2A at 24V then it would be half of that, 36 days, 16 hours hours.

 

For the 12 battery  "comfort pak" model it would be 110 days and 55 days, respectively.

 

8 X 110 = 880 Total Ah at 12V

880/2 = 440Ah at 24V

440 X 40% =  176 Usable Ah

176/0.1 = 1760 hours available at 0.1A draw

1760/24 = 73.33 Days

 

Hope that helps, or is at least mildly interesting trivia,

 

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul