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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox
Heinz Stutenbaeumer
Hello and thanks for the answer.
I have a folding propeller but no brake Heinz Am 20.11.2018 09:35 schrieb "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Salon mod
Steve Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
I can tell you that my SM 380 TouRai, was built with a full length settee in place of the loveseat, end table configuration. This boat was built with several factory built differences for a legacy buyer who was quite tall.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
All the best, Steve Morrison SM 380 TouRai BVI
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Re: Adding weight to the bow
Just do what the power boaters do and add lead forward, or in the starboard hanging locker (where you might also keep your tools.) And/or add another 1 or 2 hundred feet of chain. Don't know if you've got a fixed bimini over the cockpit but if so that could be an alternate solar panel location, eliminating the arch.
Good luck with it. Craig SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <ericmeury@...> wrote : This has been going on sometime and seem to be a "common problem" but my santorin is ass heavy and we made the issue worse last year when we added 4 L16 batteries to the engine room and installed the hydrovane. We want to add an Arch mainly for getting the solar panels off the deck behind the mast since we have a new crew member. The fwd head thru hull is pretty much fully exposed our of the water about an inch. We have the rocna 33kg mounted on the bow with 190 feet of chain. and a the original CQR sitting in the the stb fwd locker. Spare parts are mid ship under the birth and the passage way to the aft cabin carries the tools. I do plan on moving those to the forward hanging locker. What else an be done? Looking for ideas before we add the arch
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Re: Genoa sheet sizing
Here's an appealing way with a soft shackle: Or just form a loop in the middle of a single long line, put it through the clew cringle and pass the rest of the line through that, pulling snug. Hard to remove (mine's been on for seasons) but no hangups. No seizing needed. And 14mm should be fine. Cheers, Craig SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <smilesbernard@...> wrote : Hi there My Genoa sheets need replacing Currently I have 16mm polyester they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc. So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars Thoughts and experience most appreciated. All the very best Miles
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Re: Resealing fixed portlights
cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...>
Update: it was pretty easy to do, just a bit time consuming.
Use a utility knife around the edges of the arcylic/GRP portlight flange and slowly open it up. We put small wedges to hold a gap between the acrylic and GRP to ease further cutting. The thickness of the GRP means there is very little risk of breaking the lens, IMO. Being that it's silicone, the sealant released quite easily with a little leverage once you got far enough around. Once it was off, the real work began. We spent a lot of time cleaning off the old silicone with a wood chisel to get the big pieces off. Then it was fingernails and rubbing with your fingers. A trick I learned was to rub a flour/water paste on the surfaces to highlight any small areas you may have missed. The flour sticks to the silicone and makes it very apparent what you have missed! Final cleanse with microfiber and rubbing alcohol and then apply a LOT of silicone (most of a 300ml tube) and screw the lens back on, using opposite corners. I asked Olivier if we needed to let the silicone set a bit to avoid it all squeezing out when you tighten the 8 screws, but he said that Amel screws it down immediately to fill all the gaps and we should do the same. :) I considered using Sika 291i but found that a lot of those adhesive/sealants are not compatible with acrylic. We could have used Sika 295 UV, but the preparation was far more involved and the seal would fail unless it's done perfectly. If silicone was good enough for the Amel Shipyard, it's good enough for me! Ps - I didn't bother taping the lens or the outside of the portlight opening. Silicone doesn't really stick well to either, so getting off the excess was quite easy. PPS - When I was asking around for tips on doing it, the other boat owners who looked at the portlight said the same thing most people say when they see my Amel up close: "Wow, they made that really robust!" Hope this helps someone... -Scott Amel 54 #69 Tengah
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox
eric freedman
Hi Heinz, Do you have an autoprop with a disk brake on the shaft? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 8:35 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gearbox
hello,
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Gearbox
Heinz Stutenbaeumer
hello,
After 5 months in the drydock in Panama I noticed that an Oel-water mixture was leaking out of the gearbox. I had the seals and the oil changed by Amel in Martinique a year ago. Now I can't turn the propeller by hand. Is that normal or does anyone know what to do? I am grateful for every suggestion. All the best Heinz Amel SM200, 292
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Re: Genoa sheet sizing
greatketch@...
Miles,
Harken has a quick and dirty online calculator for expected sail loads as a function of wind strength here: The tough part is extending that number to a line size. Lines are all rated in breaking strength, and translating that to a maximum safe working load isn't so straightforward. New England Ropes suggests that a safe Working Load Limit 1/5 to 1/12 of the breaking strength of the line. A range so wide as to not be a lot of help. Being very conservative, and assuming you carry full 60m^2 of sail in winds of 30 knots, and then reef after that, 14mm looks strong enough to carry the loads without exceeding a reasonable WLL. It will of course stretch a bit more than 16mm, and then will have less reserve strength as the cover chafes. I attach my sheets to the head sail with a simple larkshead. With polyester double braid line it does not slip, and slides past standing rigging without a thought. The downside is that after sailing a few thousand miles is is REALLY hard to untie. It can be undone with a hammer and a bit of patience (or a knife)... We use 16mm headsail sheets on our SM, and have found no incentive to change that, but of course our turning blocks and cars might be different, and your genoa is a bit smaller. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA Back in the water tomorrow! Yeah! ---In amelyachtowners@..., <smilesbernard@...> wrote : Hi there My Genoa sheets need replacing Currently I have 16mm polyester they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc. So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars Thoughts and experience most appreciated. All the very best Miles
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Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Duane Siegfri
Thanks Bill, much appreciated!
Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Genoa sheet sizing
smiles bernard
Hi there
My Genoa sheets need replacing Currently I have 16mm polyester they don’t run too well through the cars, the bowlines tend to get hung up on the lower fwd shrouds when tacking etc. So am considering other options - a single long line with a single alpine butterfly knot to reduce hangups on the shrouds My older/vintage Maramu Genoa is I believe around 60m sq. and I’m also wondering if I can move down to 14mm good quality sheets to reduce friction in the cars Thoughts and experience most appreciated. All the very best Miles
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Bill,
Very impressed! I spent days searching the internet for one of these a couple of years ago and never did find one.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2018 11:52 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:45 AM Stephen Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Adding weight to the bow
ericmeury@...
This has been going on sometime and seem to be a "common problem" but my santorin is ass heavy and we made the issue worse last year when we added 4 L16 batteries to the engine room and installed the hydrovane. We want to add an Arch mainly for getting the solar panels off the deck behind the mast since we have a new crew member.
The fwd head thru hull is pretty much fully exposed our of the water about an inch. We have the rocna 33kg mounted on the bow with 190 feet of chain. and a the original CQR sitting in the the stb fwd locker. Spare parts are mid ship under the birth and the passage way to the aft cabin carries the tools. I do plan on moving those to the forward hanging locker. What else an be done? Looking for ideas before we add the arch
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 12:45 AM Stephen Morrison steve_morrison@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diaphragm Bilge Pump failure.
Duane, See this connector: https://www.heatpumps4pools.com/pool-equipment/pipes-fittings/hose-connector-1.5-38mm-to-1.25-32mm I have not found another source, but this is probably exactly what you need along with a short piece of 1 1/4" or 32mm hose Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: mizzen furler failure
Sv Garulfo
Hi Gary, Thanks for your input! I’m looking forward to reading your tear down and rebuild article when it’s ready. It’ll help me understand about the drain holes you mention at the bottom of the canister. I don’t see what you are referring to. Best, Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Cartagena, Colombia
On Tue, 6 Nov 2018 at 11:05, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
Graham Boyd
Thanks Bill, yes, as you said Beta appear to be are very easy to deal with in this dept.
Graham
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
Graham, Beta offers the option of "isolated negative." Be sure that they spec this option for your repower. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo D2-75 for a SuperMaramu
Graham Boyd
Hi Bill,
Thanks for your thoughts. Oddly enough your email beautifully summarises all my niggling doubts and questions that I will be presenting to the Beta man when we meet on Monday. After all 2 years ago it was him who suggested looking closely at the 60. I got an email from him this morning with all sorts of suggestions for fitting a 75!! So I am now pouring over those curves and gear box options. I was concerned about the quantum leap in torque on the 75 and it's affect on the C drive, and fitting will be more of a fiddle, but I got also an email from the "go to" Amel man in the South of France who said only boats built in 89/91 need worry about that. As you have pointed out in a previous post the weight increase on the 75 is not insignificant. I guess it all comes down to how one views this; in the aviation industry 2 passengers and their bags is always viewed as 200kg. So I guess it's like sailing around with 2 extra crew!.... or I too will be interested in where this all ends up....I'll keep you posted. Graham Sula SM140
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Roller Removal...
greatketch@...
Having just disassembled all of the various stainless bits from the bow of Harmonie for resealing, polishing, and inspection I can confirm that the axles for the anchor rollers are welded to the side plates. They pass through holes in the plates, and are then welded around the edges.
A bolt would have been so very much easier... Except for that detail, it is a nice, simple, robust design. Other than needing rebedding, polishing, and a few pieces of hardware that had corrosion issues, things looked great. I know that there was at least one major redesign of the SM bow roller system after our boat was built, so yours might be different... Hopefully in a week or two we'll have pictures of the "new and improved", or at the very least, newly shiny, bow. Water intrusion into the port side locker should be greatly reduced. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA On the hard for another four days.
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Re: Power draw at anchor
Jim Anderson
Mark, Thanks you for the correction. My math was for 12V rather than 24. So hopefully the following is correct: If your SM is equipped with 8 12V, 110Ah batteries and you are drawing 0.1 Amps continuously at 24V then theoretically it would take 73 days, 8 hours to run your batteries down to 60% charged.
If you were drawing 0.2A at 24V then it would be half of that, 36 days, 16 hours hours.
For the 12 battery "comfort pak" model it would be 110 days and 55 days, respectively.
8 X 110 = 880 Total Ah at 12V 880/2 = 440Ah at 24V 440 X 40% = 176 Usable Ah 176/0.1 = 1760 hours available at 0.1A draw 1760/24 = 73.33 Days
Hope that helps, or is at least mildly interesting trivia,
Jim SM384 Sirena Azul
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