Date   

Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

pacificcool@...
 

Thanks for the quick responses.  I realize I made a mistake in saying it was the raw water  system.  It was actually the fresh water cooling system.  Sorry about that.  IN addition, I should say that I replaced the heat exchanger in the Caribbean 6 months ago due to leakage at the end covers.  The Genset has 3000 hours.  The technician who recommended the procedure is not a Genset specialist.  He's more a general boat technician.  I'll have to ask him what the additive is that he is recommending.  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

 

Ian,

I just sent you her file.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 12:32 PM Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Dany was spot on when he suggested that the reason my ballooner would not lock into the swivel was because the locking tongue in the inner part of the swivel had worn away allowing the mouse trap to rotate to any old position. I believe the reason this happened was because the plastic ball bearings that the inner swivel rotates on had worn first, causing the locking tongue to move out of the fore-stay groove and hence break or wear off the tip.

I have obtained a new tongue (€15 + tax) and new ball bearings (24 cents each) from Amel. However, I need guidance on how to replace the balls. Annesofie said there was a file in the files section on how to do this in the files section, but I cannot find it. Can anyone who has it please forward it to crusader53 (AT) gmail.com. Thank you.

Can I replace the balls by dropping the furler and motor off the foil to  deck level without disconnecting the fore-stay?

Is the way into the ball race by removing the plastic insert? If so, how is the insert safely removed without breaking it?

Any tips would be most welcome.

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Cyprus


Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

Ian Shepherd
 

Dany was spot on when he suggested that the reason my ballooner would not lock into the swivel was because the locking tongue in the inner part of the swivel had worn away allowing the mouse trap to rotate to any old position. I believe the reason this happened was because the plastic ball bearings that the inner swivel rotates on had worn first, causing the locking tongue to move out of the fore-stay groove and hence break or wear off the tip.

I have obtained a new tongue (€15 + tax) and new ball bearings (24 cents each) from Amel. However, I need guidance on how to replace the balls. Annesofie said there was a file in the files section on how to do this in the files section, but I cannot find it. Can anyone who has it please forward it to crusader53 (AT) gmail.com. Thank you.

Can I replace the balls by dropping the furler and motor off the foil to  deck level without disconnecting the fore-stay?

Is the way into the ball race by removing the plastic insert? If so, how is the insert safely removed without breaking it?

Any tips would be most welcome.

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Cyprus


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

 

Actually, I am not sure and had a lot more questions. My partial answer was for the raw water side. It is unusual to have to flush the coolant side, but certainly possible.

People sometimes forget about the exhaust manifold when disassembling and cleaning, and usually concentrate on the heat exchanger and elbow. I have seen some ugly exhaust manifolds, blocked by carbon. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 9:37 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill

Are you sure he is talking about the raw water side? That sounds more like an engine block freshwater side cleaning process. The Onan raw water system is really simple and can not be setup to recirculate while running.

A pump, hoses, heat exchanger, and exhaust elbow. It is also not made of things that "rust". The pump is bronze, and the heat exchanger is copper-nickel. They can corrode, if the zinc is not maintained, but they typically do not clog from this, they just get thinner. The can clog from biological fouling if run a lot or from salts precipitating from seawater if not run often.

The exhaust elbow can not be cleaned effectively in-situ, it really needs to be removed if it is clogged or fouled.

The only process I know of to clean in place requires removal of the pump impeller, then pumping a phosphoric acid based cleaner (like BarnacleBuster) through the pump and heat exchanger. This bypasses the exhaust elbow, and is effective, but does not involve running the engine at all.

The Onan system is simple enough, if my heat exchanger was in need of serious cleaning, I’d take it off and clean it by hand.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, Fl, USA


Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

greatketch@...
 

Bill

Are you sure he is talking about the raw water side? That sounds more like an engine block freshwater side cleaning process. The Onan raw water system is really simple and can not be setup to recirculate while running.

A pump, hoses, heat exchanger, and exhaust elbow. It is also not made of things that "rust". The pump is bronze, and the heat exchanger is copper-nickel. They can corrode, if the zinc is not maintained, but they typically do not clog from this, they just get thinner. The can clog from biological fouling if run a lot or from salts precipitating from seawater if not run often.

The exhaust elbow can not be cleaned effectively in-situ, it really needs to be removed if it is clogged or fouled.

The only process I know of to clean in place requires removal of the pump impeller, then pumping a phosphoric acid based cleaner (like BarnacleBuster) through the pump and heat exchanger. This bypasses the exhaust elbow, and is effective, but does not involve running the engine at all.

The Onan system is simple enough, if my heat exchanger was in need of serious cleaning, I’d take it off and clean it by hand.


Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, Fl, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

 

Bill,

What hull number/year? Has the Onan cooling system ever been overhauled? How many hours on the Onan? Who is the technician or company and what product or chemicals are recommended?

As an alternative, you could remove hoses, raw water pump, manifold, and exhaust elbow, then take the metal parts to a shop that cleans radiators. Have these components chemically cleaned. Repaint and reinstall the components using new gaskets. Install new end caps and zinc on the heat exchanger. Rebuild the raw water pump and install a new impeller.

My guess is that this method is at least twice as good as the run-the-stuff through the sea water cooling system and likely close to the same cost. And, if you rebuild this way, you will basically have a new cooling system. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Sun, Nov 25, 2018, 04:04 pacificcool@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

I have Amel 141 from 1995.   Pacific Cool is currently in Fort Lauderdale for the hurricane season.  The technician looking after my boat for me recommended in an email I flush the Onan raw water cooling system with a special process that takes 10 hours and involves many fills and flushes including running the genset for four hours with an additive included.  Unfortunately, I cannot contact him at the moment to get more info.  It's apparently to remove rust build-up.   Does anyone know what this is all about. 

Regards
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool


Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

pacificcool@...
 

I have Amel 141 from 1995.   Pacific Cool is currently in Fort Lauderdale for the hurricane season.  The technician looking after my boat for me recommended in an email I flush the Onan raw water cooling system with a special process that takes 10 hours and involves many fills and flushes including running the genset for four hours with an additive included.  Unfortunately, I cannot contact him at the moment to get more info.  It's apparently to remove rust build-up.   Does anyone know what this is all about. 
Regards
Bill Shaproski
S/V Pacific Cool


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Adding weight to the bow

Elaine Leishman
 

Hi Craig,
Our bimini is still original and needs an upgrade after 19 years.  We would also like to see your design if possible.
Regards, 
Elaine and Michael 
SM 251 Nebo


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "James Cromie jamescromie@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date:25/11/2018 05:03 (GMT+10:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Adding weight to the bow

 

Hi Craig -. 
I certainly would like to see the frame that you designed!

Cheers
James
SM 347
Soteria
Pensacola cay

On Nov 24, 2018 9:18 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Eric,

I designed a stainless tube frame that fastens to the mizzen stays like our balooner "wishbones" do to the main stays, so no typical bimini uprights to deal with. This is covered with sunbrella, zipped in front but lashed "T" top style on the sides and back so it's taut as the cross members follow the same curve as the Amel bimini at the hard dodger. Can add solar panels either with through-canvas mounts (preferred) or by adding some supplemental metal framework above the canvas.

Let me know if you'd like pics, although it's pretty straightforward.
Cheers,
Craig




---In amelyachtowners@..., <ericmeury@...> wrote :

hey craig I was going to call you on this.

Do you have a hard bimini now?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Adding weight to the bow

James Cromie
 

Hi Craig -. 
I certainly would like to see the frame that you designed!

Cheers
James
SM 347
Soteria
Pensacola cay

On Nov 24, 2018 9:18 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Eric,

I designed a stainless tube frame that fastens to the mizzen stays like our balooner "wishbones" do to the main stays, so no typical bimini uprights to deal with. This is covered with sunbrella, zipped in front but lashed "T" top style on the sides and back so it's taut as the cross members follow the same curve as the Amel bimini at the hard dodger. Can add solar panels either with through-canvas mounts (preferred) or by adding some supplemental metal framework above the canvas.

Let me know if you'd like pics, although it's pretty straightforward.
Cheers,
Craig




---In amelyachtowners@..., <ericmeury@...> wrote :

hey craig I was going to call you on this.

Do you have a hard bimini now?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

Stephen Davis
 

Thanks Bill....a good photo of the how Amel does it would be great. 

Steve

On Nov 24, 2018, at 05:17, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The photos that Duane suggests are NOT original. Hopefully someone will take a photo for you Steve.

I will be in Martinique next week with a client and will measure and photo the business end of that line.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:41 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Steve,


There are two in the Photo section.  Search for "Ballooner" or use this link:


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 

The photos that Duane suggests are NOT original. Hopefully someone will take a photo for you Steve.

I will be in Martinique next week with a client and will measure and photo the business end of that line.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:41 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Steve,


There are two in the Photo section.  Search for "Ballooner" or use this link:


Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Adding weight to the bow

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Eric,
I designed a stainless tube frame that fastens to the mizzen stays like our balooner "wishbones" do to the main stays, so no typical bimini uprights to deal with. This is covered with sunbrella, zipped in front but lashed "T" top style on the sides and back so it's taut as the cross members follow the same curve as the Amel bimini at the hard dodger. Can add solar panels either with through-canvas mounts (preferred) or by adding some supplemental metal framework above the canvas.

Let me know if you'd like pics, although it's pretty straightforward.
Cheers,
Craig




---In amelyachtowners@..., <ericmeury@...> wrote :

hey craig I was going to call you on this.

Do you have a hard bimini now?


Re: Ballooner Halyard

Craig Briggs
 

Steve,
Ours, which I believe was original, had a metal collar swaged on the line to form the loop. I've since replaced it and went with a sewn and siezed loop, as Amel did on other control lines.
Cheers, Craig SN58


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Unknown Wood piece [2 Attachments]

carcodespam@...
 

Thank you Joachim,

yes, this is the only correct explanation for this piece.
Thanks

Gerhard
Sharki #60


GPS Date Problems

greatketch@...
 

I don't know how widely this information has spread yet, but I only found out the source of the problem today.

Some (not all) models of several brands of multifunction display (B&G, Simrad, Garmin, maybe others...) have a bug in the GPS chip that has manifested recently.  It seems to be related to the "week counter" in the GPS time signal rolling past 1000, which happened in October.  Affected units now report the correct time of day, but the date is now shown as sometime in the year "2099". Reportedly, some other chips have had a similar problem, but report the date as 1999.  The accuracy of the reported position is not affected. Kind of a "Mini-Y2K Bug" (remember that?)  I do not know how common this problem is, but it does affect the unit most important to me!

I am not aware of any device manufacturer that has yet implemented a fix. Because it is internal and at the chip level, I am not optimistic this will get a fix quickly.  Since it is mostly older units that are affected, it might just not happen at all.

I was going NUTS trying to track down the issue in my B&G Zeus Touch 12 because I had made a number of changes to my Navigation electronics at about that same time.  I figured it was some new piece of hardware not playing well with older ones. I know that time and date are vital to the proper function of the GPS system, so it could NOT be that... Then I Googled "GPS Navico 2099" and discovered I was not alone in my confusion and frustration.

A hardware fix is to use a separate GPS from the one built into the MFD.

Another good lesson that keeping up with your paper charting skills might not be a bad idea.  This time the bug did not affect the reported position.  Next time???

By the way, the week counter is an 8 bit binary number, so it will reset to "0" when it reaches 1024 in early 2019. It wouldn't be too surprising if this caused more problems with GPS units with less than perfect software quality control.  That rollover might even fix this problem--for another 1000 weeks.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator primary pump.

Alin SM 283
 

Hey.
General Marine in Auckland. Also, I understand Orakei Marine does Dessalator. 
Regards


On Sat, 24 Nov 2018 at 10:47, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Hi Alin,

Who is the Dessalator rep in NZ ?
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa sheet sizing

Alan Leslie
 

We too do this.
We have to as we have a permanently mounted inner forestay.
It took a bit of practice but we're really good at it now !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Opua


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator primary pump.

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Alin,
Who is the Dessalator rep in NZ ?
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa sheet sizing

smiles bernard
 

Thanks Danny we will give it a go !
It is a big sail and a small gap !
All the best
Miles

On 23 Nov 2018, at 18:46, Danny Simms sailorman.ds@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Miles,
the big genoa is a lot of sail to drag around the stays. I use a technique to reduce this. As I swing into the tack and the sheet is released I begin to furl the sail. By the time I am head to wind the sail can pass the mast easily. Then as we fall off on the new tack I unroll the sail and  my crew has the new sheet loaded and in the self tailer I winch and unroll in unison.
Get the timing right and it works well. I can do it on my own using the auto tack function on my Ray Marine auto helm.
This save a lot of wear on the sail and avoids possible damage.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 at 05:54, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks for this John!

I guess we will get smoother at tacking with a bit more practise 
Given my sheets are looking, well, ropey, I’ll try and get a single length ant try  the cow hitch for a while. If I do t like it I can always go back to 2 sheets and bowlines 
All the very best
Miles


On 21 Nov 2018, at 12:46, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,

   I purchased Annie with 16mm genoa sheets fastened to the sail with a cowhitch/larkshead.   I replaced the sheet shortly after purchase and found the knot was rock solid...no chance it would slip at all.  After an hour with a marlinspike I gave up and cut the knot.  I used a cowhitch/larkshead on the new line and it held fine, no slipage.  I untied the know after a year because I didn't like the way the line looked like it was bending as it left the knot under load.  I cut the line and used two bowlines, which I still have now.  

The bowlines do seem to catch on the forward lower shrouds and if the sail is allowed to flog during a tack the weight of the two knots seems to make things worse.    

Take home message:  cowhitch is smother, does not seem to slip once set, but I am concerned about concentrating force on a small point of the line.  Bowlines seem to spread the stress across a larger area of the rope, won't slip and have the benefit of being two separate sheets in the event of a failure near the knot/sail.  


                    Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM37
Le Marin Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa sheet sizing

Danny Simms
 

Hi Miles,
the big genoa is a lot of sail to drag around the stays. I use a technique to reduce this. As I swing into the tack and the sheet is released I begin to furl the sail. By the time I am head to wind the sail can pass the mast easily. Then as we fall off on the new tack I unroll the sail and  my crew has the new sheet loaded and in the self tailer I winch and unroll in unison.
Get the timing right and it works well. I can do it on my own using the auto tack function on my Ray Marine auto helm.
This save a lot of wear on the sail and avoids possible damage.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 at 05:54, smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks for this John!

I guess we will get smoother at tacking with a bit more practise 
Given my sheets are looking, well, ropey, I’ll try and get a single length ant try  the cow hitch for a while. If I do t like it I can always go back to 2 sheets and bowlines 
All the very best
Miles


On 21 Nov 2018, at 12:46, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,

   I purchased Annie with 16mm genoa sheets fastened to the sail with a cowhitch/larkshead.   I replaced the sheet shortly after purchase and found the knot was rock solid...no chance it would slip at all.  After an hour with a marlinspike I gave up and cut the knot.  I used a cowhitch/larkshead on the new line and it held fine, no slipage.  I untied the know after a year because I didn't like the way the line looked like it was bending as it left the knot under load.  I cut the line and used two bowlines, which I still have now.  

The bowlines do seem to catch on the forward lower shrouds and if the sail is allowed to flog during a tack the weight of the two knots seems to make things worse.    

Take home message:  cowhitch is smother, does not seem to slip once set, but I am concerned about concentrating force on a small point of the line.  Bowlines seem to spread the stress across a larger area of the rope, won't slip and have the benefit of being two separate sheets in the event of a failure near the knot/sail.  


                    Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM37
Le Marin Martinique