Date   

Prop Shaft Brake - How to remove brake pads?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi All


We are in Cape Town departing tomorrow for St Helena and the Caribbean. Whilst crossing the Indian Ocean, our prop shaft has started to rotate whilst sailing due to brake pad wear, so Amel sent us a new set which just arrived.


I could not find any instructions, but the job looks pretty simple......? ie. assuming one runs the engine in neutral to release the pressure, then remove the small circlip on the top of the pad bolt to allow the bolt holding the pad in place to slip out the bottom, then remove and replace the pad...?


Could someone who has done this before please advise me if this is correct, and if you found it easy to do, or if it became more involved after tackling the job? We have an hour spare in the morning before departing for St Helena and are hoping to replace the pads quickly before we sail.


Much appreciate


Colin

SV Island Pearl II, SM #332

Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] After 187 days working on our Volvo D3-110, HAS A MIRACLE OCCURRED?. But I have some questions!...

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Porter,

You really have been through the mill.

Virtually all turbo diesels have an aftercooler because compressed air warms up due to Boyles Law. Within the aftercooler coolant runs through a special radiator which further cools and condenses the compressed air before it is sucked into the combustion chamber.

I am wondering if the aftercooler was not tightened down correctly  then maybe the air was not sucked into the combustion chamber at the correct temperature or quantity. I guess there is a gasket that was leaking, between the chamber and the cooler.  This may  explain your earlier symptoms. I am not sure without actually looking at the engine, but maybe. The thing is, surely there would have been compression pissing out the side of the gasket that would have been evident before. How loose was it? Are we talking not quite torqued up or actually really loose?

So after your sea trial,  if all is well, then you could slack off the bolts as they were before and see if you then only get WOT of 2100. If that happens then you have diagnosed the problem. A compression leak at the aftercooler gasket.

I am amazed that this was not picked up before. Fingers crossed that this is it.

Nick
Amelia hull 019 Aml 54 ashore La Palma

On 27 Nov 2018, at 15:05, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Dear Amelgroup:

It's Porter, S/V IBIS Amel 54-152 again.  May I please impose on you a few questions, if you’d be so kind, regarding our engine issue? We’ve had a MAJOR breakthrough.

As some of you may know we have been wrestling with a Volvo D3-110 engine issue for 6+ months here in Panama.  It has been a very long, and complicated ordeal, detailed in a chronology of events included below.  

The breakthrough:
After 187 days in Panama working on this issue and essentially a completely new engine: new blocks, valves, pistons, computers, wiring harnesses, rings, turbo, rails, injectors, high pressure pump, filters, impellers, timing chain etc… At the end of the last sea trial with Volvo, the local rep realized that the aftercooler had not been secured and thus he tightened it down.  (I had mentioned to him that the engine also had great RPM variability, and he went looking for the cause.)  He tightened the bolts and the variability ceased..  We were heading back in from the trial, heads low, after making only 2100 RPM at WOT, even with new fuel system and bypassing the fuel filters with fresh filtered diesel in a jug. They then inadvertently broke the diesel return line to the fuel tank. Returning the next day they replaced the line and we cleaned the bilge.  YESTERDAY: I have the rebuilt H6 Autoprop back and changed out the supplied fixed prop for the beautiful working Autoprop.  I fire up the engine at the dock just to rattle the prop and reseat it.  I put the Volvo in gear and run it up to… 3150RPM?!? sustained! with an amazing amount of thrust and water shooting out the back.  Docklines straining!  Purrs like a kitten?!?  No more whooshing sound or a RPM limit at 2100, with still 40% of the throttle throw arc left—without the expected increase in power and rpm.  RATHER: The throttle lever continues on, adding power smoothly and effectively till the lever is horizontal and we’re spinning 3100+ (in gear!)


The questions are:

  1. Can an engine with only 25 hours on it exhibit a low compression test and still be “normal”, i.e. safe with a normal life expectancy? (the cylinders’ compression were all within about 3-5% of each other) Does the engineer’s explanation hold water? (See next paragraph below)
  2. Can an after cooler leak affect compression testing? (I can’t think how it would)
  3. Can an after cooler leak completely explain the situation? (if the fresh turbo gasses are just pouring into the engine compartment, then its like not having a turo, right?)
  4. Would you take this engine across the pacific?
  5. What more testing needs to be done to confirm readiness (were planning a 5-7 day sail and motor around Islas de las Perlas)?
  6. More of a comment: If the after cooler was the cause of low RPM and the bolts had been tightened when they assembled the engine in Panama, I would have never gotten a compression test, and we’d be in the Gambier’s right now.




The above questions arise from the condensed events:
Volvo D3-110 on an Amel 54.  New block, completed with valves, pistons, header, long block etc installed in September.  Engine fails to make RPM above 1800.  Local Volvo performs compression test: all five cylinders test around 19.5-20.5  Normal is printed at 23-30 Bar.  I call Volvo and speak with the engineer who designed the Volvo D3-110. He says, “low compression like that is normal given the circumstances, new engine without  seating of piston rings, you wont see normal compression until you have at least 500 hours or more.”  Next interesting comment: “Many diesel companies do not even publish compression values, only normative values for cylinders relationship to each other in terms of compression %.” Only 2 interpretations of his statements existed: 1) that’s BS, and he’s simply placating the situation, 2) he knows his engine.  5 compression tests were performed all with a topped up starting battery, all compression tests gave the same results.


Many many thanks for all and any thoughts!

Porter McRoberts
Vista Mar, Panama
S/V IBIS, Amel 54-152




Below is a (still condensed) summary of events:


April 2017, We buy S/V IBIS. Engine 1100hrs at purchase of our Amel 54 sailboat we replace with new long block, injectors and a variety of other items at the suggestion of Volvo, following the prescribed break-in procedures and early oil changes etc.  Long block was replaced (19,000+Euro) Volvo Martinique identified loss of compression in the cylinders, and engine smoke at the engine survey.
September 2017,  1500 engine hours, Injectors fail and I refurbish them (despite being under warranty)
May 2018,  Travel, motor and sail without issue, save routine maintenance until arrival in Colon, Panama when a “engine fault” light appears on the dash. ~1800hrs.  I ask 2 local mechanics in Colon, Panama  (Northern Caribbean Panama)  have a look.  Neither can identify the issue as the fault requires a Volvo specific VODIA computer, of which only Volvo approved shops have.  The only Volvo dealer is in Panama City, and thus we need to transit the canal to find the appropriate mechanics.
June 8th,  we’ve obtained transit date and transit the canal to meet CDM of Panama City.
June 10th,  we meet with CDM (Commerciales de Motores) who come to La Playita Marina to evaluate.  They find outdated software, and a Boost pressure sensor failure and tell me, we need a software update (and now a new computer, because our computer was ruined with the attempted CDM update.)  
Week of June 10th While attempting to update computer computer is ruined. We wait 2 weeks for new computer to be sent to panama. (fed-ex is overnight but costs 40$ more (i later learn from a local employee))  I ask another mechanic recommended by the marina: his assessment: boost pressor sense is failing because there is oil on the sensor, which should not be there.  I communicate this to CDM.  They refuse to find reason for oil, stating computer is the problem.
July 2018,  New Computer arrives and they install but then find that the wiring harness has somehow failed.  I must buy new wiring harness. Also Boost Pressure Sensor still bad.  Need to order new of both.  2 weeks pass.. (fed-ex is overnight but costs 40$ more (i  again later learn from a local employee))  Both arrive.  They install both and tell me the engine is fixed, it is safe to continue on to Tahiti.  
July 2018,  I test motor by motoring to local islands a few hours away, on way back, sensor light and alarm goes off.  We motor back with reduced rpm  
a week or so later technicians come to boat: (New) boost pressor sensor has failed.  They determine oil has traveled from crankcase housing, up breather tube, through turbo to the aftercooler and recoated the new BPS with oil.  Carlos Corgo happens to be in Panama.  He comes to boat, at this time it is determined that the replacement long lock has failed (LB#2)  It is under warranty and Volvo will replace. Long block failure is the reason for BPS failure. Replacement set up for August, must return back to Panama City.
August 2018 We sail back to Panama City.  I communicate engine realignment procedure from AMEL to mechanics and give them the 30 step worksheet.  Haul boat out of water, take out engine, 2 days later return engine.  Long Block #3 allegedly installed.  But LB#3 has same serial number as LB#2.  The mechanics, whom I choose to trust, tell me that the belt cover from LB2 was used on LB3, because the cover on 3 had broken in transit.    Motor reinstalled with CDM mechanics confirming realignment procedure.  We sea trial LB#3 with CDM mechanics: we note new occurrences of the following: motor surging, and abnormally low RPM and vibration.  Mechanics and Corgo argue: must be the propeller.  I note to mechanics propeller is clean and OEM to the boat and motor.  (I later Call AMEL (boat manufacturer who tells me both props were picked by Volvo France for the boat and are OEM and are to spec))
With long block replaced, and boat blessed by mechanics, safe to travel to Tahiti, we then retest by sailing to local islands.  On way to local islands, a terrible noise occurs en route with violent vibration and engine surges violently, changing, by itself, 500-1000 rpm rapidly.  I take video.  Next day I call CDM. and Corgo: they suggest prop still the issue.  I call AMEL France.  I change prop to unused, OEM, Volvo selected spare prop with fixed blades.  Symptoms are mildly better, as surging less violent, but vibration is horrible, Also RPM wandering-variability unchanged.  Corgo continues to blame drivetrain.  I do test at anchor: Engine in neutral: 3200 rpm (the suggested), Engine with gears engaged but without prop: 3190rpm., Engine with new prop 1800 rpm. This test exonerates the drivetrain.
September 4th,  We motor and sail back to Vista Mar Marina with great vibration and engine RPM variability.  Corgo blames the weight of the boat.
September 4th week  Sea trial absent 1300kg fuel, water and spare parts.  Boat 1/4 kt faster (9.2 to 9.5kts) but 1800rpm unchanged from loaded boat.
Sept 26.   CDM mechanics return to boat to do realignment procedure.  In starting procedure find the drive shaft of the boat broken, and the coupling broken, and the motor out of alignment by >3mm (.025mm noted as maximum) .  CDM blames previous installation of motor ((done at Volvo Martinique) and 10,000 miles ago with vibration free service.)  CDM and Corgo then tells me they are unwilling to help in any form or fashion.  I write Volvo with the help of Amel School President, Admiral Bill Rouse.  Volvo responds by assuming responsibility for the installation and commit to reimburse me the costs of new shaft, new coupling, and labor. (I still need to submit the costs)
Sept 27th-October 12th  I hire a new engineer since volvo/CDM refuses to fix the drive train damage they caused. With new engineer, mill new parts out of steel, order and receive and install OEM coupling and new drive shaft to AMEL OEM specs.
October 15th Seatrial with engineer.  Engine, Transmission, and Driveshaft at 1000rpm can now balance a penlight.  But this seatrial reveals top RPM at 1500 before engine faults yet again reducing WOT rpm to 700rpm.  CDM contacted. They setup visit for Oct 19.  
October 18th CDM returns to boat.  Luis, lead technician runs a series of 2 compression tests on the motor.  I pay engineer to be present.  CDM finds the long block, LB#3 (with 25 hours) has failed.  All cylinders fail: (24-31 bar listed in manual at starter speed.) Results by Cylinder:bar——Cyl 1:19.3bar, Cyl 2:20.7bar , Cyl 3:20.7bar, Cyl 4:19bar  Cyl 5:19..3bar.  All cylinders are performing at 62-80% of recommended pressures.  CDM repeats test and finds same, confirmatory and surprising, results.
October 22nd, 2018 Volvo/CDM suggests they order new injectors and injection system.  (Dispite low compression test) November 19-21 is given as expected arrival date. 
October 29th At the suggestion of a former patient who has been following our trip I reach out to Ron Huibers, president of Volvo USA.  He communicates back, and like a light switch things start happening much faster.  

Nov 5-9 week Volvo USA comes to boat, replace Injectors and rail: RPM increases from 1800 to 2100rpm (3000-3100 Normal) on .  Fail to repeat compression test.

Nov 12-16 week.  Volvo sends back CDM to repeat Compression test 9as doesn’t believe values) Now with Volvo specific tool and standard tool and 2 different gauges CDM repeats Tests.  ALL CONFIGURATIONS confirm original low compression test with 2 more repetitions.  Engine warm, battery charged etc.  Volvo suggests a 4th long block. I refuse as we cross the 6 month mark waiting for Volvo.  The only reasonable solution is a new model engine.  
Nov 19-23 week  Volvo USA still cannot believe the compression test.  Sends another mechanic and CDM back to the boat to complete a 5th compression test and change the high pressure fuel pump, and rail and test the engine with direct access fuel (without using the existing filtration system and boat fuel)  No change on 5th compression test, no change on sea trial or engine performance with fuel bypass test. (however, on the way back to dock, the local CDM mechanic notices the after cooler is loose and tightens it. Engine RPM variability goes away.)  Mechanics inadvertently break the diesel return line from injectors to tank and spill out a gallon of diesel in the bilge.  They return next day to clean the bilge and replace the diesel return line.
Nov 21- Leon Baylor informs me no new H model D3 exist.  March 2019, will be the delivery date.  I consider buying a Beta.  
Nov 26th: Engine miracle occurs.  First time get 3100 RPM at WOT.  What’s different from previous 2100RPM/WOT trial: Fixed prop changed to rebuilt Autoprop, fuel return line from injectors back to fuel tank replaced, after cooler screws tightened and after cooler now tight. Also trial performed at the dock: we do seatrial today (27th).




After 187 days working on our Volvo D3-110, HAS A MIRACLE OCCURRED?. But I have some questions!...

Porter McRoberts
 

Dear Amelgroup:

It's Porter, S/V IBIS Amel 54-152 again.  May I please impose on you a few questions, if you’d be so kind, regarding our engine issue? We’ve had a MAJOR breakthrough.

As some of you may know we have been wrestling with a Volvo D3-110 engine issue for 6+ months here in Panama.  It has been a very long, and complicated ordeal, detailed in a chronology of events included below.  

The breakthrough:
After 187 days in Panama working on this issue and essentially a completely new engine: new blocks, valves, pistons, computers, wiring harnesses, rings, turbo, rails, injectors, high pressure pump, filters, impellers, timing chain etc… At the end of the last sea trial with Volvo, the local rep realized that the aftercooler had not been secured and thus he tightened it down.  (I had mentioned to him that the engine also had great RPM variability, and he went looking for the cause.)  He tightened the bolts and the variability ceased.  We were heading back in from the trial, heads low, after making only 2100 RPM at WOT, even with new fuel system and bypassing the fuel filters with fresh filtered diesel in a jug. They then inadvertently broke the diesel return line to the fuel tank. Returning the next day they replaced the line and we cleaned the bilge.  YESTERDAY: I have the rebuilt H6 Autoprop back and changed out the supplied fixed prop for the beautiful working Autoprop.  I fire up the engine at the dock just to rattle the prop and reseat it.  I put the Volvo in gear and run it up to… 3150RPM?!? sustained! with an amazing amount of thrust and water shooting out the back.  Docklines straining!  Purrs like a kitten?!?  No more whooshing sound or a RPM limit at 2100, with still 40% of the throttle throw arc left—without the expected increase in power and rpm.  RATHER: The throttle lever continues on, adding power smoothly and effectively till the lever is horizontal and we’re spinning 3100+ (in gear!)


The questions are:

  1. Can an engine with only 25 hours on it exhibit a low compression test and still be “normal”, i.e. safe with a normal life expectancy? (the cylinders’ compression were all within about 3-5% of each other) Does the engineer’s explanation hold water? (See next paragraph below)
  2. Can an after cooler leak affect compression testing? (I can’t think how it would)
  3. Can an after cooler leak completely explain the situation? (if the fresh turbo gasses are just pouring into the engine compartment, then its like not having a turo, right?)
  4. Would you take this engine across the pacific?
  5. What more testing needs to be done to confirm readiness (were planning a 5-7 day sail and motor around Islas de las Perlas)?
  6. More of a comment: If the after cooler was the cause of low RPM and the bolts had been tightened when they assembled the engine in Panama, I would have never gotten a compression test, and we’d be in the Gambier’s right now.




The above questions arise from the condensed events:
Volvo D3-110 on an Amel 54.  New block, completed with valves, pistons, header, long block etc installed in September.  Engine fails to make RPM above 1800.  Local Volvo performs compression test: all five cylinders test around 19.5-20.5  Normal is printed at 23-30 Bar.  I call Volvo and speak with the engineer who designed the Volvo D3-110. He says, “low compression like that is normal given the circumstances, new engine without  seating of piston rings, you wont see normal compression until you have at least 500 hours or more.”  Next interesting comment: “Many diesel companies do not even publish compression values, only normative values for cylinders relationship to each other in terms of compression %.” Only 2 interpretations of his statements existed: 1) that’s BS, and he’s simply placating the situation, 2) he knows his engine.  5 compression tests were performed all with a topped up starting battery, all compression tests gave the same results.


Many many thanks for all and any thoughts!

Porter McRoberts
Vista Mar, Panama
S/V IBIS, Amel 54-152




Below is a (still condensed) summary of events:


April 2017, We buy S/V IBIS. Engine 1100hrs at purchase of our Amel 54 sailboat we replace with new long block, injectors and a variety of other items at the suggestion of Volvo, following the prescribed break-in procedures and early oil changes etc.  Long block was replaced (19,000+Euro) Volvo Martinique identified loss of compression in the cylinders, and engine smoke at the engine survey.
September 2017, 1500 engine hours, Injectors fail and I refurbish them (despite being under warranty)
May 2018, Travel, motor and sail without issue, save routine maintenance until arrival in Colon, Panama when a “engine fault” light appears on the dash. ~1800hrs.  I ask 2 local mechanics in Colon, Panama  (Northern Caribbean Panama)  have a look.  Neither can identify the issue as the fault requires a Volvo specific VODIA computer, of which only Volvo approved shops have.  The only Volvo dealer is in Panama City, and thus we need to transit the canal to find the appropriate mechanics.
June 8th, we’ve obtained transit date and transit the canal to meet CDM of Panama City.
June 10th, we meet with CDM (Commerciales de Motores) who come to La Playita Marina to evaluate.  They find outdated software, and a Boost pressure sensor failure and tell me, we need a software update (and now a new computer, because our computer was ruined with the attempted CDM update.)  
Week of June 10th While attempting to update computer computer is ruined. We wait 2 weeks for new computer to be sent to panama. (fed-ex is overnight but costs 40$ more (i later learn from a local employee))  I ask another mechanic recommended by the marina: his assessment: boost pressor sense is failing because there is oil on the sensor, which should not be there.  I communicate this to CDM.  They refuse to find reason for oil, stating computer is the problem.
July 2018, New Computer arrives and they install but then find that the wiring harness has somehow failed.  I must buy new wiring harness. Also Boost Pressure Sensor still bad.  Need to order new of both.  2 weeks pass. (fed-ex is overnight but costs 40$ more (i  again later learn from a local employee))  Both arrive.  They install both and tell me the engine is fixed, it is safe to continue on to Tahiti.  
July 2018, I test motor by motoring to local islands a few hours away, on way back, sensor light and alarm goes off.  We motor back with reduced rpm  
a week or so later technicians come to boat: (New) boost pressor sensor has failed.  They determine oil has traveled from crankcase housing, up breather tube, through turbo to the aftercooler and recoated the new BPS with oil.  Carlos Corgo happens to be in Panama.  He comes to boat, at this time it is determined that the replacement long lock has failed (LB#2)  It is under warranty and Volvo will replace. Long block failure is the reason for BPS failure. Replacement set up for August, must return back to Panama City.
August 2018 We sail back to Panama City.  I communicate engine realignment procedure from AMEL to mechanics and give them the 30 step worksheet.  Haul boat out of water, take out engine, 2 days later return engine.  Long Block #3 allegedly installed.  But LB#3 has same serial number as LB#2.  The mechanics, whom I choose to trust, tell me that the belt cover from LB2 was used on LB3, because the cover on 3 had broken in transit.    Motor reinstalled with CDM mechanics confirming realignment procedure. We sea trial LB#3 with CDM mechanics: we note new occurrences of the following: motor surging, and abnormally low RPM and vibration.  Mechanics and Corgo argue: must be the propeller.  I note to mechanics propeller is clean and OEM to the boat and motor.  (I later Call AMEL (boat manufacturer who tells me both props were picked by Volvo France for the boat and are OEM and are to spec))
With long block replaced, and boat blessed by mechanics, safe to travel to Tahiti, we then retest by sailing to local islands.  On way to local islands, a terrible noise occurs en route with violent vibration and engine surges violently, changing, by itself, 500-1000 rpm rapidly.  I take video.  Next day I call CDM. and Corgo: they suggest prop still the issue.  I call AMEL France.  I change prop to unused, OEM, Volvo selected spare prop with fixed blades.  Symptoms are mildly better, as surging less violent, but vibration is horrible, Also RPM wandering-variability unchanged.  Corgo continues to blame drivetrain.  I do test at anchor: Engine in neutral: 3200 rpm (the suggested), Engine with gears engaged but without prop: 3190rpm., Engine with new prop 1800 rpm. This test exonerates the drivetrain.
September 4th, We motor and sail back to Vista Mar Marina with great vibration and engine RPM variability.  Corgo blames the weight of the boat.
September 4th week Sea trial absent 1300kg fuel, water and spare parts.  Boat 1/4 kt faster (9.2 to 9.5kts) but 1800rpm unchanged from loaded boat.
Sept 26.  CDM mechanics return to boat to do realignment procedure.  In starting procedure find the drive shaft of the boat broken, and the coupling broken, and the motor out of alignment by >3mm (.025mm noted as maximum) .  CDM blames previous installation of motor ((done at Volvo Martinique) and 10,000 miles ago with vibration free service.)  CDM and Corgo then tells me they are unwilling to help in any form or fashion.  I write Volvo with the help of Amel School President, Admiral Bill Rouse.  Volvo responds by assuming responsibility for the installation and commit to reimburse me the costs of new shaft, new coupling, and labor. (I still need to submit the costs)
Sept 27th-October 12th  I hire a new engineer since volvo/CDM refuses to fix the drive train damage they caused. With new engineer, mill new parts out of steel, order and receive and install OEM coupling and new drive shaft to AMEL OEM specs.
October 15th Seatrial with engineer.  Engine, Transmission, and Driveshaft at 1000rpm can now balance a penlight.  But this seatrial reveals top RPM at 1500 before engine faults yet again reducing WOT rpm to 700rpm.  CDM contacted. They setup visit for Oct 19.  
October 18th CDM returns to boat.  Luis, lead technician runs a series of 2 compression tests on the motor.  I pay engineer to be present.  CDM finds the long block, LB#3 (with 25 hours) has failed.  All cylinders fail: (24-31 bar listed in manual at starter speed.) Results by Cylinder:bar——Cyl 1:19.3bar, Cyl 2:20.7bar , Cyl 3:20.7bar, Cyl 4:19bar  Cyl 5:19.3bar.  All cylinders are performing at 62-80% of recommended pressures.  CDM repeats test and finds same, confirmatory and surprising, results.
October 22nd, 2018 Volvo/CDM suggests they order new injectors and injection system.  (Dispite low compression test) November 19-21 is given as expected arrival date. 
October 29th At the suggestion of a former patient who has been following our trip I reach out to Ron Huibers, president of Volvo USA.  He communicates back, and like a light switch things start happening much faster.  

Nov 5-9 week Volvo USA comes to boat, replace Injectors and rail: RPM increases from 1800 to 2100rpm (3000-3100 Normal) on .  Fail to repeat compression test.

Nov 12-16 week.  Volvo sends back CDM to repeat Compression test 9as doesn’t believe values) Now with Volvo specific tool and standard tool and 2 different gauges CDM repeats Tests.  ALL CONFIGURATIONS confirm original low compression test with 2 more repetitions.  Engine warm, battery charged etc.  Volvo suggests a 4th long block. I refuse as we cross the 6 month mark waiting for Volvo.  The only reasonable solution is a new model engine.  
Nov 19-23 week  Volvo USA still cannot believe the compression test.  Sends another mechanic and CDM back to the boat to complete a 5th compression test and change the high pressure fuel pump, and rail and test the engine with direct access fuel (without using the existing filtration system and boat fuel)  No change on 5th compression test, no change on sea trial or engine performance with fuel bypass test. (however, on the way back to dock, the local CDM mechanic notices the after cooler is loose and tightens it. Engine RPM variability goes away.)  Mechanics inadvertently break the diesel return line from injectors to tank and spill out a gallon of diesel in the bilge.  They return next day to clean the bilge and replace the diesel return line.
Nov 21- Leon Baylor informs me no new H model D3 exist.  March 2019, will be the delivery date.  I consider buying a Beta.  
Nov 26th: Engine miracle occurs.  First time get 3100 RPM at WOT.  What’s different from previous 2100RPM/WOT trial: Fixed prop changed to rebuilt Autoprop, fuel return line from injectors back to fuel tank replaced, after cooler screws tightened and after cooler now tight. Also trial performed at the dock: we do seatrial today (27th).


Re; Head-Sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks to all for the warnings against using WD40 (a great British invention by the way)! My method of freeing the jammed swivel worked very well. Having clamped the carbon fibre insert tightly to the foil with a hose clip and a wrench I sprayed Corrosion Block and Silicon Oil from Lidl down from the top. The genoa halyard was tightened hard but nothing moved. However after a single upwards tap with a copper mallet, the swivel shot upwards and was free of the undamaged carbon fibre sleeve.

Everything is down now and I must congratulate Amel on how easily the foil came out of the furler as well as how easy it was to undo the 8 Alen screws etc. Considering none of these parts had been touched since new 15 years ago, Amel's assembly and attention to preventing corrosion is first class. I removed the foil from the furler using the genoa halyard and a rolling hitch. As soon as there was a little upwards tension, the foil easily slid out of the furler which was sill bolted to the support bracket behind the forestay.

I don't use Corrosion-X on my my boat but a similar product made by the Lear Corp called Corrosion Block which I consider to be excellent. However, you might want to take a look at this article by Practical Sailor which says that Corrosion-X and Corrosion Block are far from the best in a salt water environment. They recommend CorrosionPro Lube as best followed by CRC Heavy Duty and LPS-3. They do say that none of them are yet perfect.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_4/features/Corrosion-Protection-Coating-Test_5431-1.html

Thanks again to all for the help. Only the forestay to undo next!

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 (2003) Crusader Larnaca Cyprus




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

Porter McRoberts
 

Corrosion X seems so be a divine elixir for metal!  
Porter
S/V IBIS A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 26, 2018, at 5:48 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I wouldn't use standard WD40 on anything on the boat at all.

It's hydrophillic i.e. it attracts water...it will clean and lubricate metal parts initially and then they will start to corrode in the marine environment's exposure to salt water.
There are other hydrophobic (water repelling) products out there eg INOX which are much better.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

eric freedman
 

Thanks Alan,

That is what I was trying to recommend . I always use it but I forgot the name.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2018 5:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

 

 

I wouldn't use standard WD40 on anything on the boat at all.

It's hydrophillic i.e. it attracts water...it will clean and lubricate metal parts initially and then they will start to corrode in the marine environment's exposure to salt water.

There are other hydrophobic (water repelling) products out there eg INOX which are much better.

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open [1 Attachment]

eric freedman
 

That Valve is available in the USA—Just google the name and part number. It is inexpensive here.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2018 10:46 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: Sharon Brown
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open [1 Attachment]

 

 

I have attached two pages from my Amel School Book that will help you.

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

On Mon, Nov 26, 2018 at 10:13 AM sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

 

I have just got back to my boat after being away for two months to find that the forward head did not stop flushing and I had to keep the water pump switched off to stop the water flowing into the bowl. I turned the water pump on again the next morning and it seemed to have sorted itself out. I assume its either a sticking solenoid or a sticking valve but before I start ripping it apart I would appreciate some guidance from somene who may have had this problem so that I can do some preventative maintenance.

 

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

Alan Leslie
 

I wouldn't use standard WD40 on anything on the boat at all.
It's hydrophillic i.e. it attracts water...it will clean and lubricate metal parts initially and then they will start to corrode in the marine environment's exposure to salt water.
There are other hydrophobic (water repelling) products out there eg INOX which are much better.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head-sail Swivel Ball Bearing Replacement

Ian Shepherd
 

Ian,

thanks for the advice. You have given me the courage to remove the fore-stay now. Just one major snag at the moment. After removing the locking tongue to see if I could get a local shop to copy it I raised the genoa with the tongue missing, not realizing that the tongue holds the plastic inner sleeve in place. The sleeve moved downwards and jammed the swivel in the genoa up position so the genoa would not come down. I released the sail by undoing the head attachment cord from the bosuns chair and tomorrows plan is to put a hose clamp around the plastic sleeve where it has moved out of the bottom of the swivel, spray lots of WD40 in at the top and then tension the genoa halyard in the hope that the swivel will pull off the sleeve and free itself. If not, I will have to lower the entire fore-stay to the ground and see if I can use a hammer and a wooden block to drive the swivel back down over the sleeve!

How we learn from our mistakes!

Cheers

Ian SM2K 414 Crusader Cyprus


On 26/11/2018 10:00, Ian Park parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Ian
I replaced mine 4 years ago. Misshapen and broken bearings galore!
I just attached a masthead halliard to the bow roller and cranked it fairly tight. I put tape on the forestay thread to mark exactly how far it was tightened, then undid it. Removed the motor and furler gearbox from the foil and dropped the drum off.
There is a plastic plug inside the drum. When you prize it off all the balls just drop out. Once the top and bottom set are out the two parts just separate. Beautifully simple.
You may need a new plug. The inside is curved to match the curve of the inner ball race. This plug needs a ridge on the outside that fits the foil groove to stop it rotating and blocking the movement of the bearings. The ridge had worn away on mine so I had a new one machined.
Not a difficult job.

Good luck

Ian. Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

pacificcool@...
 

Thanks John.  I'll try what you recommend.  It was what I always believed was necessary since it seemed that he gravity drain wasn't getting all the used oil.  
Bill Shaproski


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Fohi,

I purchased mine in the UK from Marine Scene   (sales@...)

Ocean Toilet Solenoid Valve 24v 9-53081

I purchased two for £107.98  delivered to UK address.

It is not a Burkert brand but it does not make any difference. Very easy to fit.

Nick

On 26 Nov 2018, at 15:56, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Nick,

Many thanks for that advice. I don't suppose you would have a part number? I've searched but can't find the exact same one. The unit on my boat is Burkert, p/n 125657, 24VDC, 10W, 10bar.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

my TMD 22 had clean oil right through to the next change, as did the 30hp Volvo I had in my previous boat. In my experience unique among diesel engines where the normal is black oil after the first run. Nothing wrong with those engines but these Volvos are special. I put it down to no blow past the piston rings and I was always proud of my clean oil.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 27 November 2018 at 03:31 "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill S.,

Black oil in a Diesel engine is totally normal, and nothing to worry about. Even the best tuned Diesel engine will produce a small amount of soot when running, and the tiniest bit of blow by the piston rings, and the oil is instantly black. This is very different from a gasoline engine where soot indicates a cumbustion problem.

Do not let anybody sell you an engine cleaning just because your oil is black. The best thing to do if you are concerned about the condition of your oil is to have it lab tested. It is fast, and not at all expensive. That will tell you if it has normal levels of soot and other contaminants or if something is wrong. The best thing of all is to do such testing routinely so you can see changes with time.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, Fl, USA


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open

ya_fohi
 

Bill,

Many thanks, you also answered my last question abut p/n.

Cheers,
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open

ya_fohi
 

Nick,

Many thanks for that advice. I don't suppose you would have a part number? I've searched but can't find the exact same one. The unit on my boat is Burkert, p/n 125657, 24VDC, 10W, 10bar.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open

 

I have attached two pages from my Amel School Book that will help you.
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Nov 26, 2018 at 10:13 AM sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I have just got back to my boat after being away for two months to find that the forward head did not stop flushing and I had to keep the water pump switched off to stop the water flowing into the bowl. I turned the water pump on again the next morning and it seemed to have sorted itself out. I assume its either a sticking solenoid or a sticking valve but before I start ripping it apart I would appreciate some guidance from somene who may have had this problem so that I can do some preventative maintenance.


Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric head valve stays open

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Fohi,

I think this is quite a common occurrence. On my 54 I had the same problem and now carry several extra spare solenoid valves. They are easy and quick to change and located behind the velcro’d panel behind the wc itself.

The trick is to carry the spare valves. If it is OK now, just keep using it. It is probably the lack of use that caused it to be stuck open. I did try stripping down the valve but it then dribbled a bit, rather than close 100% so  I recommend just changing them and buying at least two or three extra.

Nick

S/Y Amelia  hull 019 Aml 54  


On 26 Nov 2018, at 15:08, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi all,

I have just got back to my boat after being away for two months to find that the forward head did not stop flushing and I had to keep the water pump switched off to stop the water flowing into the bowl. I turned the water pump on again the next morning and it seemed to have sorted itself out. I assume its either a sticking solenoid or a sticking valve but before I start ripping it apart I would appreciate some guidance from somene who may have had this problem so that I can do some preventative maintenance.


Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98




Electric head valve stays open

ya_fohi
 

Hi all,

I have just got back to my boat after being away for two months to find that the forward head did not stop flushing and I had to keep the water pump switched off to stop the water flowing into the bowl. I turned the water pump on again the next morning and it seemed to have sorted itself out. I assume its either a sticking solenoid or a sticking valve but before I start ripping it apart I would appreciate some guidance from somene who may have had this problem so that I can do some preventative maintenance.


Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

greatketch@...
 

Bill S.,

Black oil in a Diesel engine is totally normal, and nothing to worry about. Even the best tuned Diesel engine will produce a small amount of soot when running, and the tiniest bit of blow by the piston rings, and the oil is instantly black. This is very different from a gasoline engine where soot indicates a cumbustion problem.

Do not let anybody sell you an engine cleaning just because your oil is black. The best thing to do if you are concerned about the condition of your oil is to have it lab tested. It is fast, and not at all expensive. That will tell you if it has normal levels of soot and other contaminants or if something is wrong. The best thing of all is to do such testing routinely so you can see changes with time.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, Fl, USA


Re: Onan Raw Water Cooling System Maintenance

John Clark
 

Hi Bill S,
     I cut my teeth on a 66 Chevy with 283.  She survived my "cleaning" with "Engine Flush."  I don't know about how a diesel will respond.  I guess in theory it should be ok.

My SM #37 was repowered in 2002 with the TMD-22 and the 6.5KW Onan, today there is about 4400 hrs on each.  I also observed the clear oil after change in the TMD and the instant dirty oil after the change in the genset.  You are right on that the gravity drain on the genset does not get all the old oil out of the oil pan, and it drains very slow.  Takes maybe about 30 minutes to finish the gravity drain.  I use a hand vacuum fitted down through the oil dipstick tube to get the remainder out.  The first time I did this the oil was still a bit dirty, so I poured a liter or two into the motor....enough to just reach the dipstick then ran the motor for a few seconds and drained the oil again.  It has been clear after change ever since.   

                       Regards,  John

John Clark
SV Annie
Le Marin, Martinique