Date   

Santa Marta Colombia

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

Thanks fore the anther but how do I re-flash a generator?
Heinz



Am 29.11.2018 um 10:41 schrieb sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Heinz,


I believe your Onan has a "No AC Output" shutdown switch that would shut it down as you describe. 
With any luck, you may simply have to re-flash the generator to solve the problem. 

If that doesn't work you'll want to check the circuitry on the generator for winding continuity, resistance through the brushes, etc. (I assume you have fixed the short circuit, of course, and checked breakers.)

Let us know what you find.
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

Heinz,

The most likely fault is 2 things:
The Onan Governor as Mark and others have said. This governor keeps the generator at constant RPM, regardless of load. The generator is required to be at constant RPM in order to generate electricity at the correct Frequency (50htz). It should never be at idle. Your generator should ALWAYS run at 1,500 RPM.

Are you sure that you know where the Main Breaker is on your Onan. When looking at the control panel, the main breaker is on the left side of the generator, to the back of the left side, near the top.

I am guessing that the governor failed, causing the Main Breaker to OPEN.

I suggest that you get an Onan Certified Technician on board. The Onan OEM governor costs about $380, plus labor. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, Nov 29, 2018, 12:26 sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

Heinz,


I believe your Onan has a "No AC Output" shutdown switch that would shut it down as you describe. 
With any luck, you may simply have to re-flash the generator to solve the problem. 

If that doesn't work you'll want to check the circuitry on the generator for winding continuity, resistance through the brushes, etc. (I assume you have fixed the short circuit, of course, and checked breakers.)

Let us know what you find.
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

Craig Briggs
 

Heinz,

I believe your Onan has a "No AC Output" shutdown switch that would shut it down as you describe. 
With any luck, you may simply have to re-flash the generator to solve the problem. 

If that doesn't work you'll want to check the circuitry on the generator for winding continuity, resistance through the brushes, etc. (I assume you have fixed the short circuit, of course, and checked breakers.)

Let us know what you find.
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

John Clark
 

A thought,  how are you increasing speed?  The genset governor should handle that automatically


On Thu, Nov 29, 2018, 9:36 AM Heinz Stutenbaeumer heinz@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

All the electrical fuses are in. The diesel runs perfectly when I hold it Manuel at the start. Something has to tell him he's shutting
Heinz 

Am 29.11.2018 06:52 schrieb "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:
 

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

John Clark
 

Are you checking for fault codes at the remote start panel?
    John

SV Annie  SM37
Le Marin MQ

On Thu, Nov 29, 2018, 9:36 AM Heinz Stutenbaeumer heinz@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

All the electrical fuses are in. The diesel runs perfectly when I hold it Manuel at the start. Something has to tell him he's shutting
Heinz 

Am 29.11.2018 06:52 schrieb "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:
 

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

All the electrical fuses are in. The diesel runs perfectly when I hold it Manuel at the start. Something has to tell him he's shutting
Heinz 

Am 29.11.2018 06:52 schrieb "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama



Onan Generator

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

Mark Erdos
 

Heinz,

 

I think you are dealing with a couple of issues.

 

Since you had an electrical short did you check the master circuit breaker on the generator?

 

Is the fuel supply sufficient? Are you getting enough fuel from the electric pump? Is the fuel clean? The most common cause of a diesel engine shutting down once it has started is lack of fuel. Believe it or not, it is very hard to stop a running diesel engine.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Generator

 

 

Hello
I would have yesterday with Onan generator switched on a short circuit in an electric line.
Then the generator went out.
The generator starts since then briefly, then goes out however immediately again.
Only if I increase the speed of the generator manually after the start, it remains on, but does not generate electricity.
Somebody knows advice.
I am grateful for each suggestion
Heinz
Super Maramu 2000, 292 Panama


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop Shaft Brake - How to remove brake pads?

Porter McRoberts
 

Great tips Colin. Thank you!
Safe sailing!  

Porter
A54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 28, 2018, at 2:54 PM, Sailing Island Pearl colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For the record we changed the brake pads out with new ones today. This was not a difficult job at all, but to do this we found it best to remove the complete shaft brake system via the two bolts onto the engine bearers. Once this was removed, it become far easier to remove and replace each brake pad.

Tip to those on Amels setting out for a world cruise.... our departure from Cape Town to the Caribbean was delayed by a day mainly since we did not have a set of cir clip pliers on board, nor did we have spare replacement cir clips. Purchase a set of these and store them on board. The job was a bugger to do until I could purchase these items....

In our case the front brake pad (ie. nearest the bilge) was pretty worn down, so now by replacing this with a new one from Amel, we no longer have an issue with the shaft turning whilst we are sailing. Also, as per the notes in the Amel Owners site, keep a spraycan of disc brake pad cleaner spray on board too. This could also solve this problem for you.

Fair winds
Colin & Lauren Streeter
SV Island Pearl II - sm #332
Now en-route crossing the Atlantic Ocean from Cape Town to Grenada

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 1:55 AM colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi All


We are in Cape Town departing tomorrow for St Helena and the Caribbean. Whilst crossing the Indian Ocean, our prop shaft has started to rotate whilst sailing due to brake pad wear, so Amel sent us a new set which just arrived.


I could not find any instructions, but the job looks pretty simple......? ie. assuming one runs the engine in neutral to release the pressure, then remove the small circlip on the top of the pad bolt to allow the bolt holding the pad in place to slip out the bottom, then remove and replace the pad...?


Could someone who has done this before please advise me if this is correct, and if you found it easy to do, or if it became more involved after tackling the job? We have an hour spare in the morning before departing for St Helena and are hoping to replace the pads quickly before we sail.


Much appreciate


Colin

SV Island Pearl II, SM #332

Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wanted: SM Ballonner

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Paul

I believe we still have our ballonner from SM #362. It is located in Rhode Island. Paul & Sue LaFrance




From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of paul.cooper74@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 12:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Wanted: SM Ballonner
 
 

Hello,


Our recently purchased SM hull no. 238 has no ballooner.   Anyone not using theirs and want to sell it?  I'll take one even if it's tie-died.  


Thanks!


Paul

SM 238 MARACUYA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop Shaft Brake - How to remove brake pads?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

For the record we changed the brake pads out with new ones today. This was not a difficult job at all, but to do this we found it best to remove the complete shaft brake system via the two bolts onto the engine bearers. Once this was removed, it become far easier to remove and replace each brake pad.

Tip to those on Amels setting out for a world cruise.... our departure from Cape Town to the Caribbean was delayed by a day mainly since we did not have a set of cir clip pliers on board, nor did we have spare replacement cir clips. Purchase a set of these and store them on board. The job was a bugger to do until I could purchase these items....

In our case the front brake pad (ie. nearest the bilge) was pretty worn down, so now by replacing this with a new one from Amel, we no longer have an issue with the shaft turning whilst we are sailing. Also, as per the notes in the Amel Owners site, keep a spraycan of disc brake pad cleaner spray on board too. This could also solve this problem for you.

Fair winds
Colin & Lauren Streeter
SV Island Pearl II - sm #332
Now en-route crossing the Atlantic Ocean from Cape Town to Grenada

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 1:55 AM colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi All


We are in Cape Town departing tomorrow for St Helena and the Caribbean. Whilst crossing the Indian Ocean, our prop shaft has started to rotate whilst sailing due to brake pad wear, so Amel sent us a new set which just arrived.


I could not find any instructions, but the job looks pretty simple......? ie. assuming one runs the engine in neutral to release the pressure, then remove the small circlip on the top of the pad bolt to allow the bolt holding the pad in place to slip out the bottom, then remove and replace the pad...?


Could someone who has done this before please advise me if this is correct, and if you found it easy to do, or if it became more involved after tackling the job? We have an hour spare in the morning before departing for St Helena and are hoping to replace the pads quickly before we sail.


Much appreciate


Colin

SV Island Pearl II, SM #332

Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Wanted: SM Ballonner

paul.cooper74@...
 

Hello,


Our recently purchased SM hull no. 238 has no ballooner.   Anyone not using theirs and want to sell it?  I'll take one even if it's tie-died.  


Thanks!


Paul

SM 238 MARACUYA



Sangaris' Bimini Picture Posts in Albums

Craig Briggs
 

Per a few inquiries from folks interested in bimini options, I've posted a new Album called Sangaris' "T" Top Bimini.  Click "Photos - Albums" and it should come up as the latest addition. Do go to Albums, not Photos as there are 16 pictures with details. 

Please note that Sangaris is a Santorin so you may need to tweak this for other models, but the basic concept should be clear.  The key feature of the design is that the bimini is totally supported by the mizzen stays, with no supports to the deck or dodger. The "T" top concept gives it the durability of those on 60kt sport fishers.

I designed this about 6 years ago we are totally pleased with its performance since. My email is sangaris at aol dot com. 


Cheers,,

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce, FL USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor question

James Cromie
 

Thanks for your thoughts on the anchor, and specifically the tips regarding this location.  
Point well taken… always dive on the anchor whenever possible!   I didn’t sleep a wink last night and lost my snubber line when attempting to retrieve my anchor. 

Today, I’m going on a snubber line search mission.  
-James

On Nov 28, 2018, at 11:23 AM, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi James,

We also have the 40 kg Rocna, and have found it to be a fantastic anchor. I know Munjack Cay very well, and most of the bottom there is a thin layer of sand, and a very hard bottom below the sand that almost no anchor will penetrate. In the Bahamas with shallow and clear water, it is better to always just dive the anchor. FYI...the Atlantic side of Munjack has some fantastic diving and snorkeling if the ocean is calm enough to get your dinghy out there. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii

On Nov 28, 2018, at 00:09, jamescromie@...[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

To all Amel Super Maramu owners: 


I'd like to know what others are using as their primary anchor.  I have dragged in the middle of the night with a mere 35 knot gust.  Fortunately, I realized this immediately and was able to avoid danger.  


I have a Rocna 40kg on 3/8 all chain rhode.  I use a 5m 1 inch 3-strand nylon snubber line.  When I dragged, the anchor was set in sand / mud bottom and had a 7:1 scope (taking into account high tide and free-board).   When I set the anchor, I routinely place the engine in reverse at 2000rpm or greater.  


Frankly, I'm surprised that the anchor dislodged.  I didn't dive on the anchor this time... perhaps that was one important error.  I was under the assumption that a 40kg Rocna is a good choice as an all-around cruising anchor for this displacement, though I understand that one must decide what is best for a given sea bottom.  


Thank you in advance. 

James

SM347

Manjack Cay, Abacos





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor question

Stephen Davis
 

Hi James,

We also have the 40 kg Rocna, and have found it to be a fantastic anchor. I know Munjack Cay very well, and most of the bottom there is a thin layer of sand, and a very hard bottom below the sand that almost no anchor will penetrate. In the Bahamas with shallow and clear water, it is better to always just dive the anchor. FYI...the Atlantic side of Munjack has some fantastic diving and snorkeling if the ocean is calm enough to get your dinghy out there. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii

On Nov 28, 2018, at 00:09, jamescromie@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

To all Amel Super Maramu owners: 


I'd like to know what others are using as their primary anchor.  I have dragged in the middle of the night with a mere 35 knot gust.  Fortunately, I realized this immediately and was able to avoid danger.  


I have a Rocna 40kg on 3/8 all chain rhode.  I use a 5m 1 inch 3-strand nylon snubber line.  When I dragged, the anchor was set in sand / mud bottom and had a 7:1 scope (taking into account high tide and free-board).   When I set the anchor, I routinely place the engine in reverse at 2000rpm or greater.  


Frankly, I'm surprised that the anchor dislodged.  I didn't dive on the anchor this time... perhaps that was one important error.  I was under the assumption that a 40kg Rocna is a good choice as an all-around cruising anchor for this displacement, though I understand that one must decide what is best for a given sea bottom.  


Thank you in advance. 

James

SM347

Manjack Cay, Abacos


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] After 187 days working on our Volvo D3-110, HAS A MIRACLE OCCURRED?. But I have some questions!...

Porter McRoberts
 

Thank you Gents!
Well... my adulation was premature. 
While I was able to generate 2500 rpm underway the engine faulted after about an hour and then reduced to 700 rpm to “protect the engine”.   The fault goes back to the throttle position sensor. Which has been replaced. 
Now limited to 700 rpm. Good thing it wasn’t windy coming back in the marina. 

Volvo reports they’ve found a replacement engine. That’s the good news. 

Porter 
Ibis 54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Nov 27, 2018, at 7:04 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Porter,

Before declaring victory, you need to do a sea trial.
With my SM2K, when I was tied to the dock or standing still, I was able to get high rpm, but then once the boat kept moving the rpm dropped (to 2250 from memory).
So please do a sea trial, to see if you can still reach higher rpm.
But I sincerely hope for you, fighting the intercooler help…

Personally, probably too overcautious, I would do several long motoring along the coast to make sure it is constant.

Good luck! Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/27/18, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] After 187 days working on our Volvo D3-110, HAS A MIRACLE OCCURRED?. But I have some questions!...
To: "Yachownersgroupatyahoo Amel" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 27, 2018, 9:05 AM


 









Dear Amelgroup:
It's Porter, S/V IBIS Amel
54-152 again.  May I please impose on you a few questions,
if you’d be so kind, regarding our engine issue? We’ve
had a MAJOR breakthrough.
As some of you may know we have
been wrestling with a Volvo D3-110 engine issue for 6+
months here in Panama.  It has been a very long, and
complicated ordeal, detailed in a chronology of events
included below.  
The
breakthrough:After 187 days in Panama working
on this issue and essentially a completely new engine: new
blocks, valves, pistons, computers, wiring harnesses, rings,
turbo, rails, injectors, high pressure pump, filters,
impellers, timing chain etc… At the end of the last sea
trial with Volvo, the local rep realized that the
aftercooler had not been secured and thus he tightened it
down.  (I had mentioned to him that the engine also had
great RPM variability, and he went looking for the cause.) 
He tightened the bolts and the variability ceased..  We
were heading back in from the trial, heads low, after making only
2100 RPM at WOT, even with new fuel system and bypassing the
fuel filters with fresh filtered diesel in a jug. They then
inadvertently broke the diesel return line to the fuel tank.
Returning the next day they replaced the line and we cleaned
the bilge.  YESTERDAY: I have the rebuilt H6 Autoprop back
and changed out the supplied fixed prop for the beautiful
working Autoprop.  I fire up the engine at the dock just to
rattle the prop and reseat it.  I put the Volvo in gear and
run it up to… 3150RPM?!? sustained! with an amazing amount
of thrust and water shooting out the back.  Docklines
straining!  Purrs like a kitten?!?  No
more whooshing sound or a RPM limit at 2100, with
still 40% of the throttle throw arc left—without the
expected increase in power and rpm.  RATHER: The throttle
lever continues on, adding power smoothly and effectively
till the lever is horizontal and we’re spinning 3100+ (in
gear!)

The questions
are:

Can an engine with only 25 hours
on it exhibit a low compression test and still be
“normal”, i.e. safe with a normal life expectancy? (the
cylinders’ compression were all within about 3-5% of each
other) Does the engineer’s explanation hold water? (See
next paragraph below)Can an after cooler leak affect
compression testing? (I can’t think how it
would)Can an after cooler leak
completely explain the situation? (if the fresh turbo gasses
are just pouring into the engine compartment, then its like
not having a turo, right?)Would you take this engine across
the pacific?What more testing needs to be
done to confirm readiness (were planning a 5-7 day sail and
motor around Islas de las Perlas)?More of a comment: If the after
cooler was the cause of low RPM and the bolts had been tightened
when they assembled the engine in Panama, I would have never
gotten a compression test, and we’d be in the Gambier’s
right now.



The above questions arise from
the condensed events:Volvo D3-110 on an Amel 54.  New
block, completed with valves, pistons, header, long block
etc installed in September.  Engine fails to make RPM above
1800.  Local Volvo performs compression test: all five
cylinders test around 19.5-20.5  Normal is printed at 23-30
Bar.  I call Volvo and speak with the engineer who designed
the Volvo D3-110. He says, “low compression like that is
normal given the circumstances, new engine without  seating
of piston rings, you wont see normal compression until you
have at least 500 hours or more.”  Next interesting
comment: “Many diesel companies do not even publish
compression values, only normative values for cylinders
relationship to each other in terms of compression %.”
Only 2 interpretations of his statements existed: 1)
that’s BS, and he’s simply placating the situation, 2)
he knows his engine.  5 compression tests were performed
all with a topped up starting battery, all compression tests
gave the same results.

Many many thanks for all and any
thoughts!
Porter McRobertsVista Mar,
PanamaS/V IBIS, Amel
54-152



Below is a (still condensed)
summary of events:

April 2017, We buy S/V IBIS. Engine
1100hrs at purchase of our Amel 54 sailboat we replace with
new long block, injectors and a variety of other items at
the suggestion of Volvo, following the prescribed break-in
procedures and early oil changes etc.  Long block was
replaced (19,000+Euro) Volvo Martinique identified loss of
compression in the cylinders, and engine smoke at the engine
survey.September 2017, 1500 engine hours,
Injectors fail and I refurbish them (despite being under
warranty)May
2018, Travel, motor and sail
without issue, save routine maintenance until arrival in
Colon, Panama when a “engine fault” light appears on the
dash. ~1800hrs.  I ask 2 local mechanics in Colon, Panama 
(Northern Caribbean Panama)  have a look.  Neither can
identify the issue as the fault requires a Volvo specific
VODIA computer, of which only Volvo approved shops have. 
The only Volvo dealer is in Panama City, and thus we need to
transit the canal to find the appropriate
mechanics.June 8th, we’ve obtained transit
date and transit the canal to meet CDM of Panama
City.June 10th, we meet with CDM
(Commerciales de Motores) who come to La Playita Marina to
evaluate.  They find outdated software, and a Boost
pressure sensor failure and tell me, we need a software
update (and now a new computer, because our computer was
ruined with the attempted CDM update.)  Week of June 10th While attempting to update
computer computer is ruined. We wait 2 weeks for new
computer to be sent to panama. (fed-ex is overnight but
costs 40$ more (i later learn from a local employee))  I
ask another mechanic recommended by the marina: his
assessment: boost pressor sense is failing because there is
oil on the sensor, which should not be there.  I
communicate this to CDM.  They refuse to find reason for
oil, stating computer is the problem.July 2018, New Computer arrives and
they install but then find that the wiring harness has
somehow failed.  I must buy new wiring harness. Also Boost
Pressure Sensor still bad.  Need to order new of both.  2
weeks pass.. (fed-ex is overnight but costs 40$ more (i 
again later learn from a local employee))  Both arrive. 
They install both and tell me the engine is fixed, it is
safe to continue on to Tahiti.  July 2018, I test motor by motoring
to local islands a few hours away, on way back, sensor light
and alarm goes off.  We motor back with reduced rpm
 a week or so later technicians
come to boat: (New) boost pressor sensor has failed.  They
determine oil has traveled from crankcase housing, up
breather tube, through turbo to the aftercooler and recoated
the new BPS with oil.  Carlos
Corgo happens to be in Panama.  He comes to boat, at
this time it is determined that the replacement long lock
has failed (LB#2)  It is under warranty and Volvo will
replace. Long block failure is the reason for BPS failure.
Replacement set up for August, must return back to Panama
City.August 2018 We sail back to Panama
City.  I communicate engine realignment procedure from AMEL
to mechanics and give them the
30 step worksheet.  Haul boat out of water, take out
engine, 2 days later return engine.  Long Block #3
allegedly installed.  But
LB#3 has same serial number as LB#2.  The mechanics, whom I choose to
trust, tell me that the belt cover from LB2 was used on LB3,
because the cover on 3 had broken in transit.    Motor
reinstalled with CDM mechanics confirming realignment
procedure. We sea trial LB#3 with CDM
mechanics: we note new occurrences of the following: motor
surging, and abnormally low RPM and vibration.  Mechanics
and Corgo argue: must be the propeller.  I note to
mechanics propeller is clean and OEM to the boat and
motor.  (I later Call AMEL (boat manufacturer who tells me
both props were picked by Volvo France for the boat and are
OEM and are to spec)) With long block
replaced, and boat blessed by mechanics, safe to travel to Tahiti, we
then retest by sailing to local islands.  On way to local
islands, a terrible noise occurs en route with violent
vibration and engine surges violently, changing, by itself,
500-1000 rpm
rapidly.  I take video.  Next day I call CDM. and Corgo:
they suggest prop still the issue.  I call AMEL France.  I
change prop to unused, OEM, Volvo selected spare
prop with fixed blades.  Symptoms are mildly better, as
surging less violent, but vibration is horrible, Also RPM
wandering-variability unchanged.  Corgo continues to blame
drivetrain.  I do test at anchor: Engine in neutral: 3200
rpm (the suggested), Engine with gears engaged but without
prop: 3190rpm., Engine with new prop 1800 rpm. This test
exonerates the drivetrain.September 4th, We motor and sail back to
Vista Mar Marina with great vibration and engine RPM
variability.  Corgo blames the weight of the
boat.September 4th week Sea trial absent 1300kg
fuel, water and spare parts.  Boat 1/4 kt faster (9.2 to
9.5kts) but 1800rpm unchanged from loaded
boat.Sept 26.  CDM mechanics return to
boat to do realignment procedure.  In starting procedure
find the drive shaft of the boat broken, and the coupling
broken, and the motor out of alignment by >3mm (.025mm
noted as maximum) .  CDM blames previous installation of
motor ((done at Volvo
Martinique) and 10,000 miles ago with vibration free
service.)  CDM
and Corgo then tells me they are unwilling to help in any
form or fashion.  I write Volvo with the help of
Amel School President, Admiral Bill Rouse.  Volvo responds
by assuming responsibility for the installation and commit
to reimburse me the costs of new shaft, new coupling, and
labor. (I still need to submit the costs)Sept 27th-October 12th  I
hire a new engineer since volvo/CDM refuses to fix the drive
train damage they caused. With new engineer, mill new parts
out of steel, order and receive and install OEM coupling and
new drive shaft to AMEL OEM specs.October 15th Seatrial with engineer. 
Engine, Transmission, and Driveshaft at 1000rpm can now
balance a penlight.  But this seatrial reveals top RPM at
1500 before engine faults yet again reducing WOT rpm to
700rpm.  CDM contacted. They setup visit for Oct 19.
 October 18th CDM returns to boat. 
Luis, lead technician runs a series of 2 compression tests
on the motor.  I pay engineer to be present.  CDM finds
the long block, LB#3 (with 25 hours) has failed.  All
cylinders fail: (24-31 bar listed in manual at starter
speed.) Results by Cylinder:bar——Cyl 1:19.3bar, Cyl
2:20.7bar , Cyl 3:20.7bar, Cyl 4:19bar  Cyl 5:19..3bar. 
All cylinders are performing at 62-80% of recommended
pressures.  CDM repeats test and finds same, confirmatory
and surprising, results.October 22nd, 2018 Volvo/CDM
suggests they order new injectors and injection system. 
(Dispite low compression test) November 19-21 is given as
expected arrival date. October 29th At the
suggestion of a former patient who has been following our
trip I reach out to Ron Huibers, president of Volvo USA. 
He communicates back, and like a light switch things start
happening much faster.  
Nov
5-9 week Volvo USA comes to boat, replace Injectors and
rail: RPM increases from 1800 to 2100rpm (3000-3100 Normal)
on .  Fail to repeat compression test.
Nov
12-16 week.  Volvo sends back CDM to repeat Compression
test 9as doesn’t believe values) Now with Volvo specific
tool and standard tool and 2 different gauges CDM repeats
Tests.  ALL CONFIGURATIONS confirm original low compression
test with 2 more repetitions.  Engine warm, battery charged
etc.  Volvo suggests a 4th long block. I refuse as we cross
the 6 month mark waiting for Volvo.  The only reasonable
solution is a new model engine.  Nov
19-23 week  Volvo USA still cannot believe the
compression test.  Sends another mechanic and CDM back to
the boat to complete a 5th compression test and change the
high pressure fuel pump, and rail and test the engine with
direct access fuel (without using the existing filtration
system and boat fuel)  No change on 5th compression test,
no change on sea trial or engine performance with fuel
bypass test. (however, on the way back to dock, the local
CDM mechanic notices the after cooler is loose and tightens
it. Engine RPM variability goes away.)  Mechanics
inadvertently break the diesel return line from injectors to
tank and spill out a gallon of diesel in the bilge.  They
return next day to clean the bilge and replace the diesel
return line.Nov
21- Leon Baylor informs me no new H model D3 exist. 
March 2019, will be the delivery date.  I consider buying a
Beta.  Nov
26th: Engine miracle occurs.  First time get 3100 RPM
at WOT.  What’s different from previous 2100RPM/WOT
trial: Fixed prop changed to rebuilt Autoprop, fuel return
line from injectors back to fuel tank replaced, after cooler
screws tightened and after cooler now tight. Also trial
performed at the dock: we do seatrial today
(27th).






Re: Anchor question

Ian Park
 

James
I wouldn’t mis-trust your anchor set-up.
It could be the anchor hooked in behind a rock or something in the seabed. This could withstand a steady pull in reverse. Maybe the strong gust was enough to dislodge the obstruction.

I have found with my Rocna that on a hard sandy bottom reversing hard results in dragging. I now wait and let the wind extend the chain to see if it bites and then put in reverse and slowly increase revs - it seems to work better.

Even with the best anchor I guess these things come along to test us from time to time. Isn’t it uncanny how you develop a sixth sense for something not right with the sound or movement of your boat!!

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96


Anchor question

James Cromie
 

To all Amel Super Maramu owners: 


I'd like to know what others are using as their primary anchor.  I have dragged in the middle of the night with a mere 35 knot gust.  Fortunately, I realized this immediately and was able to avoid danger.  


I have a Rocna 40kg on 3/8 all chain rhode.  I use a 5m 1 inch 3-strand nylon snubber line.  When I dragged, the anchor was set in sand / mud bottom and had a 7:1 scope (taking into account high tide and free-board).   When I set the anchor, I routinely place the engine in reverse at 2000rpm or greater.  


Frankly, I'm surprised that the anchor dislodged.  I didn't dive on the anchor this time... perhaps that was one important error.  I was under the assumption that a 40kg Rocna is a good choice as an all-around cruising anchor for this displacement, though I understand that one must decide what is best for a given sea bottom.  


Thank you in advance. 

James

SM347

Manjack Cay, Abacos


Re: Swivel Horns

Ian Park
 

They should be straight. I bent mine early on when my boat was new to me. It was caused by the ballooner halliard getting wrapped round the foil. This prevented the swivel from turning so the motor was turning the whole foil, swivel and horns against the mast. The horns bend because of the power in that furler motor.
Just be careful that the ballooner halliards are clear of the genoa and the foil.
You can straighten them, or order new ones from Amel or get them made - its just a s/s rod threaded at one end with some hose glued on.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

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