Date   

Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Frank,
I think Ian is talking about the pumps that supply the flush whereas your problem is pumping out. The pump out pumps may have siezed up whilst the boat was out of the water. To check this remove the plastic cover off the motor and you will see a slot on the outer end of the motor shaft. Try turning this to free the motor. If you succeed in getting the motor to empty the pan you should remove the pump and strip down the working parts as the seals may have gone and possibly allowed salt water to get into the bearing on that end of the motor. A squirt of WD40 should get the motor running again until you can find an electrical motor repair shop who shopuld be able to replace the seals and bearing for less than getting a new unit from Jabsco.
Not a nice job but not as nasty as sorting out a manual system.

Good flushing! Anne and John, SM319

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Shepherd
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 5:00 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge


Hi Frank,

I have not had this problem on relaunching but I would suspect that you have an airlock in the plumbing to the two pumps located on the forward engine room bulkhead, which I believe are above the water line. You may have to prime the pumps manually. Have you removed the cap to the main inlet strainer and made sure that the water level is nearly to the top and reaching the manifold that goes to the toilet pumps, anchor wash and watermaker?

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

----- Original Message -----
From: bootlegger@mailasail.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco
electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcb's keep tripping
and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either
of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps
which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,
filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have
called Jabsco who were unable to help me.
As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of
urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
Amel SM2000 #321

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Rép. : [Amel] Mango Hull #1 Restoration

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi David,
 
There is a rubber band which prevents water from penetrating at the base of the vertical hatch. It is similar to the rubber preventing water to run down a car door window.
It is called lip (lèvre in French)  by the builder, i bought same from Amel, to replace mine because i could not find this rubber in car parts stores..
 
As for the maintaining the hatch opened at various height or providing a controlled movement, a simple block of wood exerting a pressure on the wood rail does the job, the pressure may be set by a small knob and screw. It was installed by Amel, but it is easy to make.
 
Serge, Opéra, Mango #51

--- En date de : Mar, 25.11.08, davismel2003 <davis@jenobi.com> a écrit :

De: davismel2003 <davis@jenobi.com>
Objet: [Amel] Mango Hull #1 Restoration
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mardi 25 Novembre 2008, 11 h 35






The AnnieM is in the process of being rebuilt and of course we face
many challenges. Today's particular challenge is to try and gather some
information on the sliding main hatch blade.
Can the downslide be controlled or does it just freefall as ours does
at the moment?
Best way to secure it, should it have a series of barrel bolt holes in
the vertical member?
How can it be made watertight? Currently when water gets on the blade
it runs in behind the companionway ladder.
Mel Davis
Kemah, Texas
















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Mango Hull #1 Restoration

davismel2003 <davis@...>
 

The AnnieM is in the process of being rebuilt and of course we face
many challenges. Today's particular challenge is to try and gather some
information on the sliding main hatch blade.
Can the downslide be controlled or does it just freefall as ours does
at the moment?
Best way to secure it, should it have a series of barrel bolt holes in
the vertical member?
How can it be made watertight? Currently when water gets on the blade
it runs in behind the companionway ladder.
Mel Davis
Kemah, Texas


Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Frank,

I have not had this problem on relaunching but I would suspect that you have an airlock in the plumbing to the two pumps located on the forward engine room bulkhead, which I believe are above the water line. You may have to prime the pumps manually. Have you removed the cap to the main inlet strainer and made sure that the water level is nearly to the top and reaching the manifold that goes to the toilet pumps, anchor wash and watermaker?

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

----- Original Message -----
From: bootlegger@mailasail.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge




Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco
electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcb's keep tripping
and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either
of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps
which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,
filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have
called Jabsco who were unable to help me.
As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of
urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
Amel SM2000 #321







E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
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Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

bootlegger@...
 

Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco
electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcbs keep tripping
and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either
of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps
which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,
filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have
called Jabsco who were unable to help me.
As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of
urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
Amel SM2000 #321


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster electrical failure

r.zurkirchen
 

Hi, I had the same proplem on my Amel.
Finaly it was the switch on the control pannel.I had to take it out
and clean the inside contacts. After that it worked.
Rudy of SAMANTHA

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard Piller
<richard03801@...> wrote:

Dave, there is a black box next to the motor when in the up
position.  Open the box and clean the contacts.  And check that the
micro switches are clean and workng.
Good luck. Richard and Joan on Challenge in Corse

--- On Sun, 11/2/08, drdavegoodman <drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

From: drdavegoodman <drdavegoodman@...>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster electrical failure
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 2, 2008, 6:42 AM






Greetings all.
My bowthruster on SM#230 suddenly failed.. The bowthruster is in the
up position. Flipped the control panel switch to the 'on position'
to
lower the motor unit, and the control panel red light indicator did
not come on, and the motor to lower the bowthruster did not
operate.
Its as if there is no power getting to either the control panel or
lowering motor unit. I checked the circuit breaker on the 24volt
electrical panel and that is working properly. Wonder what to do
next
to trouble shoot the problem. Any ideas?
Thanks
Dave


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


If anyone needs a rebuild kit for a Simpson Lawrence SL 400/401 toilet....

Dave_Benjamin
 

I am replacing a SL 401 and have spares for it. The previous owner told
me he imported the kit from Scotland as it was not available from
anywhere else. I will put it on ebay if noone on the list is
interested.


fiberglass pan in forward head - Maramu

Dave_Benjamin
 

I am replacing the forward head in our Maramu. I was giving some
thought to removing the fiberglass pan so I can renew the plumbing for
the shower drain and relocate the raw water intake for the head. The
pan appears to be removable but I'm wondering if it separates from the
part outside the toilet compartment along the sill. It appears to be
all one piece and if it is I'm not sure how or if it would come out.

Has anyone removed this piece?


Re: bilge pump

joseph mc donnell
 

Hi Pat
I'v done some work on the pump in the past, I found that the
mounts attaching the pump to the motor, had broken down over time and
although the motor was running it was moving the whole pump assembly
and not the diaphram. With a bit of work the unit was repaired and put
back in, (touch wood) no problems after two years Although it seems
like the pump has a lot to do, in lifting the waste water, it is one
powerful and reliable pump and well up to the job. Questions, you said
there was work done, is the check valve facing the right way, is there
a blockage in the inlet pipe at the suction head, disconect the lifting
hose from the bilge side of the pump see if there is suction when the
pump is switched on, lifting the top plate of the pump, see if the
actuating arm is attached properly to the pump, lastly is there a
blockage on the seaward side of the pump. You should have no problem
disasembling the unit, a good job for a winters day on the boat.
Regards Joe McDonnell

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sailw32"
<sailw32@...> wrote:

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram
is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi Pat,
 
I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected to the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level (+10")  which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in a while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the main pump for a few days.
 
If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check valve in the  bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump will not work at all if the stainer is blocked...
 
I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.
 
Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com> a écrit :

De: sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com>
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


------------------------------------

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bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

Serge, You said you replaced the block holding the valves.By "block" do you
mean the lower half of the pump housing?The pump has a check valve but the
strainer does not have a check valve and that may very well help.I'll buy a new
strainer with check valve.Thanks for your input.Pat / Shenanigans

In a message dated 11/23/2008 8:20:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
sailw32@aol.com writes:






In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
_laetitiaii@yahoo.la_ (mailto:laetitiaii@yahoo.ca) writes:

Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected
to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in
a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the
main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump
will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <__sailw32@aol._sa_
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) > a écrit :

De: sailw32 <__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@À: _amelyachtowners@<WBR_amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) )
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.changed out to some other arran
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans

------------------------------------

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and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
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Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
laetitiaii@yahoo.ca writes:




Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <_sailw32@aol.sai_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) > a écrit :

De: sailw32 <_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_ (mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.changed out to some other arrangeme
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel
_http://cf.promos.http://cf.http://cfhttp://cf.prom_
(http://cf.promos.yahoo.com/courriel/visiteguidee2/)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks,
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)


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Santorin fridge

wolfgangklh
 

Hallo Willem,
schön was von Dir und Kavanga zu hören. Sitze in Spanien und betrachte
Gibraltar und ihr seid auf der anderen Seite des Mittelmeers.
Wenn Du Zeit und Lust hast, so schicke doch mal Info zu den Plänen und
Eurem Liegeplatz unter Wolf.klueh²t-online.de

Gruß Wolfgang


Replacing an Isotemp Basic 4 water heater in a Super Maramu

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Greetings from BeBe in New Zealand,

I just replaced the Isotemp Basic 4 in a Super Maramu 2000 hull #387.
The distributor said that it was an exact replacement. I was told
that the Basic 4 now comes standard with a mixing valve to regulate
the output water temperature; and that I could not get one without the
mixing valve.

As it turns out the new Isotemp Basic 4 with the standard mixing valve
will not fit in the SM2. The mixing valve increases the overall
height of the water heater at the point where it meets the cockpit
scupper drain pipe. I discussed this problem with the Isotemp
distributor and he said to "simply remove the mixing valve."

You have probably guessed that modifying boat parts and the word
"simply" just do not go together, After a lot of trial and error I
found a solution and will post the procedure and photos in the Photo
section titled "Isotemp replacement in a Super Maramu."

Regards,

Bill Rouse circumnavigating with Judy
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
anchored Opua, New Zealand


Re: ventilation

c_fruendt
 

Thanks for input which complies with my own investigations.
Sailingboats are a compromise and too many openings are not acceptable
for a ocean sailing boat.

Have a nice stay in Jolly harbour and do not forget to go to Shirley
hights on saturday evening to enjoy steel band and rumpunch. I visited
Antigua 3 times and i liked it very much.


Re: new fridge unit Santorin

Willem J. Kroes <Kavanga@...>
 

Hi Phil,

Ask Mr Beaute from Amel:

(Olivier BEAUTE/After-sales dept
sav@amel.fr)

My boat is in Turkey now, so I also can't give you the max. dimensions
for the fridge.

On my #69 Santorin the original Electrolux fridge is still working
properly. May be consuming a little bit more amps compared to more
recent models.

Success!

Willem J. Kroes

Amel Santorin #69 "Kavanga"


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, phil.berghmans <no_reply@...>
wrote:

hello amelists!

I'm having problem with my fridge (previous owner installed a Db 35
Danfoss aircooled compressor)it runs 80% off the time when its more
then
25 celsius.

To cut a long story short is there anyone with advice on wich system
and model i could change to .We will be going to the carib and
beyond
next year.Spending our time in warm waters.

Does anyone have the right measures off the fridge space in a
Santorin
We want to buy/order the new system here in the Benelux and take it
with
us to Greece where the boat is located now.So I cant measure the
space.
And want to buy the biggest model i can get in there?Does somebody
had
the same problem maybe?

Thanks for all your help in advance

Phil from 2Miles ahead
Santorin 101


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

Russ Roberts <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

Regarding the Euros cored decking: Any reports on the damages found in the
old boats with years of no maintenance? Thanks your all the other
information. Does anyone else with older Amels have any reports on deck
leaks/damage?

Russ

On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 4:35 PM, matt <russisland@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi,

My engine is 4cyl.75HP Indenor(Peugot)Diesel with the Borg Warner
Velvet Shuttle Drive Plate Transmission. From close observation I can
tell this is a second engine as few parts were left from Volvo Penta
eg. impeller pump etc.etc.
The diesel fuel tanks are: Port-150L. Starboard-100L.
From memory the water capacity is 250L. in the keel tank.
The refrigeration with the old system is not economical anymore due to
the price of fuel-alternative energy will be the way to go:)
No holding tanks on the boat-all gear pretty much from the 80's.
The most disturbing thing I found so far is the gray water system!
Runs all the way from the head to the bilge under companion way then
is pumped out by manual pump out. No much good for the fiberglass down
below.
The decks are composite but not sure if it is balsa core? looks more
like hardwood-but that will be very unusual?
I managed to upload few pics please look in the album 'SV DARIEN'-soon
more.
Thanks to all
magic
SV.DARIEN
AMEL EUROS No.88

P.S. Jose-Luis are you able to sent few photos of your boat? how did
you install your autopilot? is it mechanical drive with the original
morse or hydraulic? Did you changed your running rig from cable wire
to the ropes? what about second frigde near the stove in the galley-
still function as a fridge?

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Russ Roberts"
<russ.roberts.va@...> wrote:

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros 39
in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of
vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats. The
one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@...> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt






Sharki line drawing / image posted

Zanareva
 

I've uploaded an AutoCAD drawing (in Files section) and raster image
(in Amel-General folder in Photos section) of the Sharki plan view I
drew years ago when we owned her. Good for Sharki owners to use to
make a boat 'calling card' or other graphic need but I wouldn't use
for an purpose where you're going to manufacture anything.

Richard
SM#5 Spice


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi,

As far as I know the Indenor and the MD21a are the same engine. In my
engine I can read Indenor as well somewhere in the block, but the
serial number corresponds to a Volvo Penta MD21a and, as I commented
before, i have the workshop manual and it is exactly the same as the
one I have.

Regarding the deck, i have observed that it is fiber (I can see light
coming through), but some parts that need more robustness (winches,
etc) habe probably been cored with hardwood.

I have posted the plans I have for 39' and 41' in the group. There
you can find some details. Although I do not know if the 39' was
exactly the same.

I have equipped the boat with a 40 liters holding tank for black
water. If you need more there are some more space. You can also use
the space below the port bed in the forward cabin.

Regards
JL


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@...> wrote:

Hi,

My engine is 4cyl.75HP Indenor(Peugot)Diesel with the Borg Warner
Velvet Shuttle Drive Plate Transmission. From close observation I
can
tell this is a second engine as few parts were left from Volvo
Penta
eg. impeller pump etc.etc.
The diesel fuel tanks are: Port-150L. Starboard-100L.
From memory the water capacity is 250L. in the keel tank.
The refrigeration with the old system is not economical anymore due
to
the price of fuel-alternative energy will be the way to go:)
No holding tanks on the boat-all gear pretty much from the 80's.
The most disturbing thing I found so far is the gray water system!
Runs all the way from the head to the bilge under companion way
then
is pumped out by manual pump out. No much good for the fiberglass
down
below.
The decks are composite but not sure if it is balsa core? looks
more
like hardwood-but that will be very unusual?
I managed to upload few pics please look in the album 'SV DARIEN'-
soon
more.
Thanks to all
magic
SV.DARIEN
AMEL EUROS No.88

P.S. Jose-Luis are you able to sent few photos of your boat? how
did
you install your autopilot? is it mechanical drive with the
original
morse or hydraulic? Did you changed your running rig from cable
wire
to the ropes? what about second frigde near the stove in the galley-
still function as a fridge?



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Roberts"
<russ.roberts.va@> wrote:

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros
39
in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of
vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats.
The
one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt



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