Date   

Re: Sludge in fuel tank

ya_fohi
 

Bill,
Thanks, that is quite reassuring. The "sludge" is very sticky - I only noticed it when I went to lift the gauge rod up and I could feel it sticking to the bottom of the tank. What I found on the end was some dark brown very sticky residue. I have never had a problem with dirty or watery fuel, so I do believe that what I am seeing is not an urgency. It doesn't strike me as a DIY job though, so as you suggest, next time we're in a reasonably up to date location, we'll call an expert.
Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

Mike Ondra
 

First easy check is the engine mounts. We had your symptoms at certain harmonic rpms.

Standing next to the ending rock it vigorously athwartships. If you can recreate the knocking sound, it is likely one of the mounts.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

St. Augustine FL

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 11:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

 

 

Hello fellow amelians
In the canaries our engine purred nicely
When we arrived in the Cape Verde’s it was a little rough on idle
On first running since the roughish Atlantic crossing (40-45kts during last 5 days) its even rougher still
I have a Perkins m65 with around 3k hours
It starts on the button but vibrates lots until the revs are increased.
Would be great to hear thoughts on any simple things I could try. I don’t think I can adjust the idle speed on the engine. Perhaps I could via the throttle cable but don’t want to make matters worse.
I’ve bled the fuel

I’m currently in Barbados where I can’t seem to find a diesel mechanic
Next stop Martinique where I’m sure I’ll find good professional
We ran the prop shaft alternator on the long crossing for 2 weeks straight. I started to notice that in the higher winds towards the end of the trip the noise from the rotating prop would change to a less regular sound at speed - almost a knocking sound
I think perhaps the prop shaft alignment needs adjusting. Perhaps the two issues are related although if so I’d imagine the vibrations to get worse with increased revs rather than get better

Any thoughts most appreciated and any pointers to good mechanics in Martinique would be great too

All the very best

Miles


Fuel in Colombia

eric freedman
 

 

Hi Mark,

I have no problem with biodiesel in my car or boat in Colombia.

However I use a cetane booster additive when I burn Biofuel. Most people say it is not necessary.

 

I also use Howes meaner power cleaner. One bottle is good for 350 gallons.

It eliminates sludge and water from my tank. It is guaranteed to increase fuel efficiency 5% . Most importantly –no more black smudge on the hull, I carry a case on board. I don’t think you can get it ibn Colombia.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

https://www.soundingsonline.com/features/will-biodiesel-ever-work-for-boaters

 

 

 

 

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 6:13 PM
To: kimberlite@...
Subject: Fuel in Colombia

 

Eric,

 

I know you have spent some time in the Colombia area and are wise to all things Colombian. We are going to need fuel here and several sailors express concerns due to the bio diesel being the only option. Thoughts?

 

By the way, our boat is filthy. It is not coal but dust. It hasn’t rained since we arrived here and it is very dry and windy. I swear the mountain is being blow away.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

smiles bernard
 

Thanks Mark

I’ll check the engine mounts. Looking at the prop shaft when in gear today there does seem to be a slight misalignment by eye. 
I had the cutlass bearing replaced in the canaries so perhaps alignment has been out but somehow got worse via the engine mounts movement etc after prolonged free running of the prop shaft at speed on the long passage. 
There was also LOTS of weed on the passage. A boat we are travelling with seems to have issues with their prop after weed fouling on the trip so perhaps we also were fouled whilst running the prop shaft alternator hard which has exacerbated a prop shaft alignment issue. 

Hmmm

I’ve bled the system but only up to the injector pump. I am rather ignorant about how air might cause rough running. Perhaps if the air was just in one of the high pressure fuel lines to a single cylinder ? Wonder if this would get worse not better on higher revs. 

I’ll also chase the fuel line as you mention to see if there is any obvious signs of problems at unions etc. 

The last fuel we took on was in the canaries. Only about 50L. We don’t use much really but that which we did take on in a few places in the canaries always seemed ok and always had lots of throughput at the pumps with all the other boats. I treat with a biocide too but I could have a look at the fuel just in case. 

I also have a switchable double canister off engine primary fuel filter. I tried switching that to the new unused filter and the problem remained unchanged. 


Many thanks again for the helpful thoughts. Very much appreciated 

All the best

Miles





On 2 Jan 2019, at 15:00, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Miles,

 

A couple of thoughts:

 

Are the engine mounts in good condition? (asking this based on the issue of noise or knocking sound when running shaft alternator)

Did the problem begin after you last filled up with fuel? If so, you may have bad fuel.

Do you have a good flow of fuel all the way from the tank to the injectors (checking filters, joints for leakage, etc all along the fuel path)

Have you bled the system to eliminate air?

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 12:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

 

 

Hello fellow amelians
In the canaries our engine purred nicely
When we arrived in the Cape Verde’s it was a little rough on idle
On first running since the roughish Atlantic crossing (40-45kts during last 5 days) its even rougher still
I have a Perkins m65 with around 3k hours
It starts on the button but vibrates lots until the revs are increased.
Would be great to hear thoughts on any simple things I could try. I don’t think I can adjust the idle speed on the engine. Perhaps I could via the throttle cable but don’t want to make matters worse.
I’ve bled the fuel

I’m currently in Barbados where I can’t seem to find a diesel mechanic
Next stop Martinique where I’m sure I’ll find good professional
We ran the prop shaft alternator on the long crossing for 2 weeks straight. I started to notice that in the higher winds towards the end of the trip the noise from the rotating prop would change to a less regular sound at speed - almost a knocking sound
I think perhaps the prop shaft alignment needs adjusting. Perhaps the two issues are related although if so I’d imagine the vibrations to get worse with increased revs rather than get better

Any thoughts most appreciated and any pointers to good mechanics in Martinique would be great too

All the very best

Miles


Bill Kinney

eric freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Miles,

We had a problem that sounds similar and yet different from yours -- a vibration above 2000 rpm that got worse with higher revs.  I suspected the engine alignment, and was proven right as soon as we had a mechanic look at in in Le Marin.  He replaced the engine mounts, C drive mounts, and Vetus coupling rubber bits.  It's smoother than ever now.  I was very happy with his work.  The mechanic's name is Didier, and his number is +596 696 81 57 22.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Portsmouth, Dominica


On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 4:35 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Miles,

 

A couple of thoughts:

 

Are the engine mounts in good condition? (asking this based on the issue of noise or knocking sound when running shaft alternator)

Did the problem begin after you last filled up with fuel? If so, you may have bad fuel.

Do you have a good flow of fuel all the way from the tank to the injectors (checking filters, joints for leakage, etc all along the fuel path)

Have you bled the system to eliminate air?

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 12:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

 

 

Hello fellow amelians
In the canaries our engine purred nicely
When we arrived in the Cape Verde’s it was a little rough on idle
On first running since the roughish Atlantic crossing (40-45kts during last 5 days) its even rougher still
I have a Perkins m65 with around 3k hours
It starts on the button but vibrates lots until the revs are increased.
Would be great to hear thoughts on any simple things I could try. I don’t think I can adjust the idle speed on the engine. Perhaps I could via the throttle cable but don’t want to make matters worse.
I’ve bled the fuel

I’m currently in Barbados where I can’t seem to find a diesel mechanic
Next stop Martinique where I’m sure I’ll find good professional
We ran the prop shaft alternator on the long crossing for 2 weeks straight. I started to notice that in the higher winds towards the end of the trip the noise from the rotating prop would change to a less regular sound at speed - almost a knocking sound
I think perhaps the prop shaft alignment needs adjusting. Perhaps the two issues are related although if so I’d imagine the vibrations to get worse with increased revs rather than get better

Any thoughts most appreciated and any pointers to good mechanics in Martinique would be great too

All the very best

Miles


Re: Toe pulley (headsail)

mfmcgovern@...
 

Gentlemen,

This thread inspired me to take a look at the condition of the pulleys on my 2004 SM.  Thankfully there are no signs of cracking on either pulley but when I tried to remove them I found at least one fastener on each pulley had "welded" itself to the pulley due to galvanic corrosion.  It took me hours of heating, beating, and gentle coaxing to remove the corroded screws in the controlled environment of my workshop.  And in doing so I caused some minor damage to the threads in one of the pulleys.  I would not want to try doing this on the boat.

Given all that, I'm going to have my machinist make me a new set of these pulleys so I can replace them preemptively in a controlled environment.  I am going to have him replicate the original two-piece design as closely as possible with the raised ribs on each side offset so that the line will "weave" through them.  However, they will be made from 316 Stainless Steel to eliminate the risk of galvanic corrosion between the machine screws and the pulleys.

It won't be much trouble to machine a few more sets at the same time so if you are interested in purchasing some, send me an email at mfmcgovern@... (mfmcgovern at gmail dot com).  I won't have a final cost until we've made the first one but I estimate around US$200 per pulley made from 316 Stainless Steel (+/- ~10%).

Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Sludge in fuel tank

greatketch@...
 

If the only thing in there is "sticky sludge" that adheres to the walls of the tank, then it is important, but not probably not urgent.  

If there is a significant amount of water, or other liquid that is NOT fuel then you have an issue both important AND urgent.

I am not sure of the piping on the 54, but on a SM you can extend a small diameter hose straight down the diesel fill pipe, and use a hand pump or vacuum oil extractor to get a sample from the very bottom of the tank.  If that is clean, you are (most likely) safe for now.  If you get a sample that contains water, or anything other than clear fuel, you'll need to get as much of it out as you can.

The easiest way to do it is to hire a tank cleaning specialist to do the dirty work.  They are available in most places with a high concentration of large boats, and are usually mobile services mounted on a boat. Short of that resource, I have used a manual oil change pump to suck fuel from the bottom of a tank, put it through a good, clean, water separating filter funnel, and put it back. Keep doing it until no more water or "sludge" comes out.

Have lots of primary fuel elements handy, and monitor them closely until you can get the tank professionally cleaned.

My old boat got its first real tank cleaning as it approached the ripe old age of 40, so if you keep clean fuel going in, you'll get clean fuel out for a long time!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sharongbrown@...> wrote :

Hi all,

Out Amel 54 is 10 years old, and the fuel tank has never been cleaned. I noticed today from the dip stick gauge that there is a coating of sticky sludge at the bottom off the tank. I have no prior experience of treating this, and am reluctant to try while we are on a mooring buoy. I would appreciate ny advice on a) if this should be addressed urgently and b) how best to do it.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98


Re: Head sail furling

greatketch@...
 

Kent,

I hope this doesn't show as a duplicate message, I thought I had responded, but no message has appeared...

Before you condemn the internal gearing of the furler gearbox, be sure that the drive pin is engaging in the drive plate.  A number of people have reported having the hole enlarge and roundoff, which drives the pin out of engagement.  That matches the symptoms you are seeing.  We have had that drive plate fracture and totally fail.  

I have just had our jib furler gearbox completely disassembled for normal maintenance of seals and bearings.  It seems very unlikely that the gearing would cause the issues you describe.  Mind you "unlikely" is not impossible!

We have twice had to use our manual furling system, and never had any trouble with it.  Our furling  line is standard 10mm double braid polyester line.  I wonder if the StaySet is just a little too stiff?  I am sure that 7/16" line would not be too large for the drum.

Locally, the go-to guys for Amel rigging are Nance and Underwood in Fort Lauderdale.  If you needed a new drive plate made, they can do it for sure.  Roger Underwood is the guy to get in touch with.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Back underway tomorrow morning! Finally!



Re: Engine Repower for Super Maramu

Dan Wilcox
 

Danny and Miles, thank you for the warning. I greatly appreciate the helping nature of this group, and constantly leverage these conversations get things resolved on Feierabend.  

I'll contact Amel to get a little more insight into their warning.  The other SM I mentioned (1991 vintage) has had the Yanmar 110hp installed since 2006 with no issues (and was actively used).  I have a Maxprop which may provide less stress than a 3 bladed fixed prop?

Thanks, Dan
SV Feierabend 
SM#86


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TMD22 Turbo

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Steve,

I have a barely used turbo from a TMD 22 Volvo. I fitted it when I was trying to get the engine to perform to specs. I failed and very soon after replaced the engine. The turbo has been on my shelf since. NZ $500 ( about 320 USD) plus shipping from New Zealand. Money back (less shipping) warranty for functioning on install. 

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 03 January 2019 at 07:16 "caliber33@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

 I have a TMD 22 Volvo Penta  1999/2000 Does anyone have a source for a rebuild kit or a rebuilt Turbocharger P/N 380291, new ones are almost $2600.00      Steve,  S.V. Forever Young,                      Shelter Bay Panama

 


 


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Kent,

I can’t help you with expertise in the area you are in, but if you are willing to backtrack to St Augustine, you can get some help. We had some work performed at St Augustine Marine in 2015, and they have a good rigger there who removed and rebuilt my headsail furler. His name is Andrew, he is still working there, and I’d trust him to do the work. In our case, the shaft and bronze gear were in good shape, but he replaced every seal in the unit, put it back together, and re-installed on the boat. 

I’m on my way back to Hawaii from Florida tomorrow. I have a new bronze gear and stainless shaft for the furler, and would be willing to ship to you if needed. I would need you to get me replacements within a few months, as I don’t want to give up my spares. Also, I have a list of the all the seal sizes for the furler on my boat I can send you. With a little luck, Maude has some spares on the shelf to send you. Another option should be to take my new ones to a machine shop for duplication, and then send mine back to me. 

Let me know if any of this will help you out. 

Happy New Year,

Steve
Aloha SM 72
Hawaii

On Jan 2, 2019, at 12:31, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Hi all, Happy 2019!!!
We finally got away from the Chesapeake just before Christmas. Now in Lake Worth to visit friends.

Our jib furler failed to hold while shortening sail in 20kts of wind. The motor turns but sounds like the gears are grinding. After a few turns it gives and the sail unfurls. I just bought a new line for manually furling, 150’ of 3/8” StaSet. It doesn’t hold the sail furled part way, the line slips in the drum.

We managed to get it furled (loosely) completely, by augmenting the manual furling line with short bursts of the motor.

I think the gears are stripped or out of alignment. Does anyone know of a place in Palm Beach or Ft Lauderdale that might be able to do repairs? If not, will 7/16” line hold better on the furling drum until we can get to Amel Caraibes? Any other suggestions or thoughts?
I don’t want to disassemble the gearbox unless I’m pretty sure I can complete repairs before heading out again.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM 243


Re: Engine Repower for Super Maramu

Miles
 

Hi Dan,

 

I also repowered two years ago with a Volvo Penta D2-75 after Amel warned me not to go to 110 hp.   The D2-75 has a much broader torque curve and feels more powerful than the old engine.  It is also very smooth and quiet and fuel efficient.

 

Smooth sailing,

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug sm 216,  Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TMD22 Turbo

Mark Erdos
 

Steve,

 

I would be very surprised if you couldn’t find a shop locally. There are only three major manufactures of turbocharges worldwide. Garrett and Mitsubishi are the main two; I forget the third. This would not be a Volvo produced item. Once a shop sees it, they will know which rebuilt kit to use. They should not make any changes to the fan and use the one you have (this is important), the rest of the turbo rebuild are seals and bearings. Unless it is frozen from saltwater penetration, you should be able to have it rebuilt.

 

I would suggest checking with a local diesel mechanic and asking them where they take their turbo charges for rebuilding (this might cost you a beer). Or, pay them a few dollars to source someone on your behalf.

 

A quick Google search found this: http://bwscpanama.com/index.php/en/services/turbocharger-service-and-maintenance

 

Good luck!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 2:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] TMD22 Turbo

 

 

 I have a TMD 22 Volvo Penta  1999/2000 Does anyone have a source for a rebuild kit or a rebuilt Turbocharger P/N 380291, new ones are almost $2600.00      Steve,  S.V. Forever Young,                      Shelter Bay Panama


Re: Head sail furling

greatketch@...
 

Kent,

Before you condemn the gearing inside the box, be sure that the drive pin in the furling drum is fully engaging in the drive plate that is mounted on top of the gearbox.  We had our drive plate blow apart a few years ago, and other people have had trouble with the hole rounding over and pushing the pin up.  That sounds like the more likely cause.

Having just had our furling gearbox apart for routine maintenance, I think it very unlikely that the gearing inside the gearbox is the problem.  Certainly possible, but unlikely given what you describe as symptoms.

For the manual furling line, we have 10mm double braid dacron.  That worked great for us on the two occasions we needed it.  I wonder if the StaySet might be too stiff?  7/16" would not be too big.

If you need this unit disassembled and looked at, you might try Nance and Underwood, riggers in Fort Lauderdale.  They know Amel's very well, and Roger Underwood has been a help when we have used him.  If you need a new drive plate, I know they can make one for you.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

Mark Erdos
 

Miles,

 

A couple of thoughts:

 

Are the engine mounts in good condition? (asking this based on the issue of noise or knocking sound when running shaft alternator)

Did the problem begin after you last filled up with fuel? If so, you may have bad fuel.

Do you have a good flow of fuel all the way from the tank to the injectors (checking filters, joints for leakage, etc all along the fuel path)

Have you bled the system to eliminate air?

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 12:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rough engine at idle

 

 

Hello fellow amelians
In the canaries our engine purred nicely
When we arrived in the Cape Verde’s it was a little rough on idle
On first running since the roughish Atlantic crossing (40-45kts during last 5 days) its even rougher still
I have a Perkins m65 with around 3k hours
It starts on the button but vibrates lots until the revs are increased.
Would be great to hear thoughts on any simple things I could try. I don’t think I can adjust the idle speed on the engine. Perhaps I could via the throttle cable but don’t want to make matters worse.
I’ve bled the fuel

I’m currently in Barbados where I can’t seem to find a diesel mechanic
Next stop Martinique where I’m sure I’ll find good professional
We ran the prop shaft alternator on the long crossing for 2 weeks straight. I started to notice that in the higher winds towards the end of the trip the noise from the rotating prop would change to a less regular sound at speed - almost a knocking sound
I think perhaps the prop shaft alignment needs adjusting. Perhaps the two issues are related although if so I’d imagine the vibrations to get worse with increased revs rather than get better

Any thoughts most appreciated and any pointers to good mechanics in Martinique would be great too

All the very best

Miles


Sludge in fuel tank

ya_fohi
 

Hi all,

Out Amel 54 is 10 years old, and the fuel tank has never been cleaned. I noticed today from the dip stick gauge that there is a coating of sticky sludge at the bottom off the tank. I have no prior experience of treating this, and am reluctant to try while we are on a mooring buoy. I would appreciate ny advice on a) if this should be addressed urgently and b) how best to do it.

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98


TMD22 Turbo

Steve Harmon
 

I'm looking for a source for parts or a rebuild kit, or rebuilt Turbocharger for a TMD22 Volvo Penta, Turbocharger Part number is 38029., A new one by the way is  $2600.00


 Steve on Forever Young  / Panama Canal


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Genoa sheet cars

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Miles,

assuming your Maramu is same as the SM in this respect. I took the screws out of the stanchion base and pushed it sideways to allow the car to slide off. However it was a challenge to get one of the screws out. Others have cut the sides of a short section the track off to allow the car to come off. This method assumes you don't need the full length.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 02 January 2019 at 14:23 "smiles bernard smilesbernard@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy new year !
We recently arrived in Barbados after fast crossing from Cape Verde’s
The boat was great but I noticed a few things that I now need to address
The port Genoa sheet car is worn at the point the shackles attaches.

I think it’s an original mid 80s a goiot car. It has a stylised seagull shaped ensign.

Does anyone know a suitable replacement for a vintage Maramu car and also how to remove / reinstall? I presume then come off the track fwd end. There is a stopper bolt head at the fwd end of the track so I presume I remove this and just slide the car off the track. Space for removal of the car looks really tight with a stanchion base though.
If anyone has replaced their sheet cars any info would be very much appreciated

All the very best

Miles



 


 


Re: Engine Repower for Super Maramu

greatketch@...
 

Dan,

Even before you get to talking with Yanmar about the isolated ground, talk to Amel about your C-Drive.  It has been mentioned several times here that the older C-Drives are not rated for greater than 100 HP.  I have never talked to them first hand about this, but the information comes from reliable sources!

Now about grounding...A full answer to that question is complicated and somewhat nuanced.  Let me try doing a short form...

The Amel has three electrical systems onboard (actually a few more depending on how you count, but this works for now).

The 24V DC system, the 220V AC system, and the bonding system.  In the Amel concept these systems are designed to be completely independent, and have no cross connections.  This minimizes the chance of problems with stray current corrosion, and with managing the problems that come about when plugged into shore power. Amel did violate this total isolation in a few places, but that's another story...

The engine block needs to be part of the bonding system for both lightening strike mitigation and corrosion control, especially of the C-drive components.

Most engines manufacturers also make the engine block part of the negative return circuit to the starting battery.  If this is true, then you have connected the bonding circuit to the battery negative through the engine block defeating the isolated bonding circuit.  This makes leakage currents (and all the very serious problems they can cause) both more likely, and much harder to detect.

I know when you are repowering it is a pain to put an isolated ground as a "must have," and many people will try to talk you out of it, but stick to it. It is important.

Engines can have isolated grounds in two ways.  Have starting motors that are isolated from the block and have their own negative connection, or have a relay that opens the block ground when it is not needed.  In either case, the alternator needs to be the isolated return type, and all the instrument senders need to be two-wire isolated ground.

All of the above information applies to the generator as well.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA

13721 - 13740 of 57356