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Re: Toe pulley (headsail)
Hi Mark,
I would be interested in two pulleys too, if you still have a couple available! Shipping to France or US if easier. I will write to your email. Mine is carpathia3 at yahoo dot com. Many thanks for your help on this! Guillaume s/v Carpathia III SM2K #293
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Re: Toe pulley (headsail)
Paul Stascavage
Mark, I would like a pair as well if they are not all spoken for. Thank you for all your efforts on this one. Please shoot me an email when you have a chance (paul dot stascavage at icloud dot com) All the best, Paul Stascavage SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn Cruising St Augustine, FL www.RitaKathryn.com
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Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific
Miles
HI Kent,
I don’t remember if I added another outboard block back near the winch. I don’t think so. There should not be much force on the line and I usually pulled it in manually—at least after the initial furling. The loops over the winch keep it from unfurling again when you stop pulling. If you are sailing partly furled, you will want to use the small winch.
Miles
s/y Ladybug
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Dean;
We are wintering in Corfu and will start cruising the Ionian and then the Adriatic in June.
My e-mail address is mshirloo “at” transpacific”dot”us If you’d like to stay in contact, please send a private e-mail and we can share contact information. May be we can hookup somewhere.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 9:39 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50
Hi Mohammad, We bought the 54 in late 2017, and cruised for 6 months in Greece last summer. Much like you, we are very impressed with the boat. The more we learned the more we liked. Cheers SV STELLA A54-154.
Departing Preveza in April for Northern Europe.
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Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans [10 Attachments]
carcodespam@...
Alan I found it at Amazon Germany: It has a rubber cap but the switch is made in plastic. This one has a better quality (made in brass) but is more expensive: BTW they are not switches but push-buttons. (Push to stop the engine, push and hold to turn the windlass.) Gerhard Sharki #60
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
I had forgotten the vacuum trick Eric. I really like that one too!!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kent S/V Kristy SM243
On Jan 5, 2019, at 1:57 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Tom, We have replaced the starboard wire twice and the port one once. One of the secrets is to use the European round wire vs the USA flat wire. I am not a fan at the present time to use LED lights as the ones I have seen are not sealed against sea water. So I just used the exact same wire to replace mine. I used a very strong thin line continuously taped about 1 foot down the end of the wire. The rope was entirely covered with electrical tape and I wrapped it so it was pointed where the wire ended and the rope continued. . It was a marlow rope about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger .it comes in a small spool.
The second time I replaced the starboard wire, I soldered the ends together and stripped off the jacket of the wire. I then again used a very small rope tied with a long bowline to the soldered connection. . I used some tape to clean up the configuration ant it worked very well.
It is very important to put a lot of dish washing soap on the wire and pull it back and forth to lubricate the openings. If there is a grommet in the stanchion remove it and seal it when done with silicone.
If my memory serves me correctly the port light wire runs down the same stanchion and through the same hole in the deck. In my case the steel imbedded in the fiberglass under the stanchion base expanded due to salt water intrusion. I cut back the glass remove the rusted plate and replaced the fiberglass. I then fabricated a Stainless steel plate and mounted it on the outside of the fiberglass. There is no more rust and everything has been good for quite a few years. The only caution is to be gentle as you pull the wire. If yo feel it binding. Pull it back and see what is causing the problem with your splice.
On my previous boat, not an Amel. I used a vacuum cleaner to suck a thin line with a few knots in it through the stanchion.
Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
eric freedman
Hi Tom, We have replaced the starboard wire twice and the port one once. One of the secrets is to use the European round wire vs the USA flat wire. I am not a fan at the present time to use LED lights as the ones I have seen are not sealed against sea water. So I just used the exact same wire to replace mine. I used a very strong thin line continuously taped about 1 foot down the end of the wire. The rope was entirely covered with electrical tape and I wrapped it so it was pointed where the wire ended and the rope continued. . It was a marlow rope about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger .it comes in a small spool.
The second time I replaced the starboard wire, I soldered the ends together and stripped off the jacket of the wire. I then again used a very small rope tied with a long bowline to the soldered connection. . I used some tape to clean up the configuration ant it worked very well.
It is very important to put a lot of dish washing soap on the wire and pull it back and forth to lubricate the openings. If there is a grommet in the stanchion remove it and seal it when done with silicone.
If my memory serves me correctly the port light wire runs down the same stanchion and through the same hole in the deck. In my case the steel imbedded in the fiberglass under the stanchion base expanded due to salt water intrusion. I cut back the glass remove the rusted plate and replaced the fiberglass. I then fabricated a Stainless steel plate and mounted it on the outside of the fiberglass. There is no more rust and everything has been good for quite a few years. The only caution is to be gentle as you pull the wire. If yo feel it binding. Pull it back and see what is causing the problem with your splice.
On my previous boat, not an Amel. I used a vacuum cleaner to suck a thin line with a few knots in it through the stanchion.
Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 12:17 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.
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Re: Amel 50
Hi Mohammad,
We bought the 54 in late 2017, and cruised for 6 months in Greece last summer. Much like you, we are very impressed with the boat. The more we learned the more we liked. Cheers Dean SV STELLA A54-154. Departing Preveza in April for Northern Europe.
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Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans [10 Attachments]
svcharisma
Gerhard If you said already, I don't see it. Can you tell me where you purchased the new starter switch for your Perkins? I need a new rubber cap for mine, as well. Alan, sv Charisma Mango #62
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50
Mohammad Shirloo
HI Dean;
Congratulations. You will not be disappointed. We are more impressed with each passing year.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 4:44 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50
Dean,
You bought a world cruiser. 😁
On Fri, Jan 4, 2019, 16:49 Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galapagos [2 Attachments]
Hi Porter,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Those pictures are from 2001, and that's our daughter swimming. She was in the Peace Corps in Ecuador, so, of course, we had to go. What a super time! From what I read the government hasn't changed much with "local interpretations" of regulations being highly variable and harbor masters being rather, er, sleepy. We did arrange, with virtually no interest from a harbormaster, a cruisers alert for some fishermen whose engine had died and were drifting toward the Marquesas for a week. It worked and they were rescued. Harbormaster dozed on. We also spent a few days anchored by ourselves in Isla Santa Fe, which has no town, but 1000's of Lobos del mare - sea lions, who are too cute and love to buzz you while you snorkel. Plus a few weeks in other anchorages - beyond description! {Yes, you can wiggle a white tipped reef shark by his tail while he sleeps.) Our last stop was the northernmost island - Isla Darwin, with huge schools of hammerhead sharks. Wow! From Darwin we continued NW to Baja Mexico, which Jimmy Cornell's World Cruising Routes says you can't do. We had two weeks of perfect 24/7 off-wind sailing with the balooner and genoa. Rolled them up together each noon for a swim in cobalt blues seas. The one very positive government action we came across was the confiscation of a Honduran boat that was cutting off shark fins and leaving the sharks to die - to sell the fins to the far east "aphrodisiacs" market - disgusting. So don't hesitate to push the boat out a bit on your visit. Our daughter's advice was, "You're always good for one "lo ciento", although we never had to offer one. Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <portermcroberts@...> wrote : Fantastic Tip Craig! Appreciated! We’ll be headed that way hopefully soon with a new Volvo engine. I know it was for Heinz, but we’ll tag along! Thank you Porter S/V IBIS 54-152 Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com
> On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:22 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific
Thanks Miles, so I’m envisioning the line running along the deck and up against the cockpit coaming, rather than thru another block or two that keep it outboard by the rail. Is that right?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kent Robertson
On Jan 4, 2019, at 4:01 PM, 'Miles Bidwell' milesbid@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I will try to draw a sketch. I recall that I put two blocks on the first or second starboard station base. The lines then run straight down the deck and attach to the bungee that continues to the big aft cleat. I found that I had to tie the knot just aft of the forward block on the line that would be running aft as the sail furled so it didn’t run through a block. I am a bit fuzzy as I last used this about 15 years ago after the motor drive plate came adrift.
Carol sends her best and she and I hope to meet Iris someday.
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm 216
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
Hi Tom,
If you haven’t already, switch to LEDs. You can use a much smaller wire which will be much easier to run. Definitely use some kind of lube, it will go much easier. (Soapy water or a wire-pulling lube). I lost my messenger when pulling the old wires (the wire broke). I was able to pull it back from the fixture end and threaded a 1/4” steel fishing tape with a little difficulty. Others suggested using a ferrous nut tied to your messenger and coaxing it along with a strong magnet. Very cool don’t ya think? I’ll definitely try that some day. Kent S/V Kristy SM243 Ft Lauderdale for a few days.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galapagos [2 Attachments]
Porter McRoberts
Fantastic Tip Craig!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Appreciated! We’ll be headed that way hopefully soon with a new Volvo engine. I know it was for Heinz, but we’ll tag along! Thank you Porter S/V IBIS 54-152 Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com
On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:22 PM, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50
Dean, You bought a world cruiser. 😁 Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: Amel 50
That’s a great result!!
The boat does look great. We considered it seriously. We visited the first hull in the factory in 2017, but decided we didn’t want to buy a boat so early in the production cycle, and also felt (rightly or wrongly) the 54 was a better world cruiser. The factory visit to see the 50 cemented our decision to buy an Amel. Very impressed. Dean SV Stella A54-154 Sent from my iPhone X
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Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific
Miles
Hi Kent,
I will try to draw a sketch. I recall that I put two blocks on the first or second starboard station base. The lines then run straight down the deck and attach to the bungee that continues to the big aft cleat. I found that I had to tie the knot just aft of the forward block on the line that would be running aft as the sail furled so it didn’t run through a block. I am a bit fuzzy as I last used this about 15 years ago after the motor drive plate came adrift.
Carol sends her best and she and I hope to meet Iris someday.
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm 216
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo
Steve Harmon <caliber33@...>
Thanks Bill, I did buy the CHAR cartridge just under $300.00
On Thursday, January 3, 2019 02:21:20 PM EST, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
Mark, It was Mark McGovern who did the research for the TMD 22. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 12:27 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific
Very interesting, Miles, I don’t quite picture the bungee and block, and don’t understand how the lines run down the deck. I assume that there are more blocks along the rail, but that begs the question how and where the two ends of the furling line combine to make a loop. A knot wouldn’t go through a block on the rail.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
If anyone else uses this setup, I’d love to see some pics or a sketch. Thanks and Happy New Year Miles, and my best to Carol. Kent & Iris S/V Kristy SM 243
On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:53 PM, 'Miles Bidwell' milesbid@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
Your upcoming adventures sound wonderful. I am a bit jealous.
Re: the furling, Ladybug came with a long black and white furling line. I am not on the boat so I don’t know what it is. It may well be polyester. It is the same line that attaches to the main halyard to allow dropping the sail. This line goes around the furler, then to two blocks on the front starboard side and back along the deck. The elastic bungee that holds the passerelle attaches to the rear starboard cleat. Another block attaches to the bungee and to the furling line that is now tied into one big loop. Take several loops around the main winch or the small winch. The bungee provides sufficient tension (not a lot) for rolling in the sail. I have only used this once and it worked very well. It didn’t slip on the furler.
Please ask me questions if this is not clear. I will be back on the boat in 10 days and will be more helpful then.
Regards and fair winds,
Miles s/y Ladybug, SM 216 lying in Le Marin, Martinique
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
Well, Thomas, you got some interesting replies:
Joe and Tracie Cloudstreet were able to simply pull out the old wire, attaching a chase (line, I presume) to then pull the new wire back up. The wire went around the bow, so, presumably, there is only one hole in the deck on the port side. They don’t note if there is a splice at the port side light for the wire to continue around the bow over to the starboard side, or, perhaps, there are two sets of wires, both going through the port side deck hole.
Paul and Sue LaFrance (nee Nomad), simply tied a leader line to the wire (presumably at the light fixture) and were able to pull it back through the deck, tie a new wire on and pull it back up. They’ve also got a SM, but don’t mention the wire going around the bow, nor if they rewired both sides.
Neither sound like they encountered any Amel installed silicone nor had anything like the very difficult extraction I encountered. I doubt this is a difference between their SM’s and my SN, but I do hope your experience is as easy as theirs.
Let us know what you find.
Cheers, Craig
---In
amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote : Hi Tom, Yes, removing the bow pulpit is tough - far better to avoid that and, having done it both ways, frankly, it doesn't make the job that much easier.
I was able to remove the old wiring without removing the pulpit by just destructively ripping it out a few inches at a time, jerking the wire up and down as I went. I needed to clean up and enlarge the hole at the bottom some with an electric drill as I went along and got a needle nose pliers to grab the small bits. I also used a steel electrical fish tape to ream out the old silicone Amel had used inside of the pulpit tubing - really difficult. Then used the fish tape and to run the new wire.
It's one of those frustrating jobs that you just have to keep at until the wire and silicone finally give up. Check to see if you've got any rust stains on the locker walls where the wires exit. If so there's been some water seeping in where the wire enters the bow pulpit and that is rusting out the carbon steel plate embedded in the toe rail for the pulpit bolts. It may eventually swell up and bulge out or crack the toe rail. Be sure to really seal off the new wires.
After you do the starboard side you'll have the technique down and you can tackle the port side, which will surely not be far behind in deteriorating.
Good luck with it! Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris in Ft Pierce, FL ---In amelyachtowners@..., <cloudstreet100@...> wrote : Hi Thomas, I had this issue a few years ago. The wires had corroded (green) all the way back to the junction box in the port locker so I replaced everything from that point. I don't remember the exact details but it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I definitely did not have to remove the pulpit. As Paul & Sue mentioned just attache a chase to the old wire before you pull/push it out. The wire goes up to the top rail and around the bow. I think I used some sort of lube on the wire but it went pretty well. Best of luck, Joe & Tracie SV CloudStreet, SM #331 Grenada
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