Date   

Deck Construction

airbus4russ <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

Can anyone tell me how the decks of earlier Amels (70's) were
constructed, please? Were they balsa cored? Has anyone had major leak
or rot problems. Thanks.


Re: [Amel] Re:Hella fans

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Ken and Judy, we were trying to get to Marmaris this winter only to have issues with the marina there a contract. All they wanted us to do was send money no invoice or contract not ever a draft contract. How did you guys do. You can get back us at rpiller@earthlink.net.
thanks Richard and Joan on Challenge in Corsica SM 209

uplus.com

--- On Thu, 11/27/08, Ken & Judy <goldendaze@uuplus.com> wrote:

From: Ken & Judy <goldendaze@uuplus.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re:Hella fans
To: "Amel Owners" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008, 4:17 PM
Caframo fans made in Canada.
about 30 to 40 USD. Open rubber blade is easy to clean and
about the same or more wind. 2 speed. We are replacing
all
with either the black or white. We have 13 fans. I will
be
glad when all the Hell-a are gone.
Golden Daze
Maramu 192
Marmaris Turkey


Dessalator 160 L/hr watermaker low-pressure pump spec's

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
 

We're having trouble with our 160 l/h Dessalator watermaker. Before we
bought our boat, the low-pressure feed pump was replaced with a
Tellarini ENM-20, which does not produce sufficient flow or pressure
(only 32L/min at 1m height.) No pressure shows when the low pressure
pump activates the first couple minutes of operation and the
high-pressure pump transiently drains the 25 micron filter canister
when it starts.
The NZ company which provided that pump has agreed to provide a larger
pump and credit me for the smaller one they previously installed. The
price difference between their replacement and Dessalator is $600+, so
it would be nice if the replacement would work.
Does anyone know desired pressure, flow, and current draw for the low
pressure pump for the 160 L/hr from Dessalator.
The great pictures from Amelliahona appear to show 25A and 5A breakers
respectively for the high and low pressure pumps? Is there a 5A limit
on the low-pressure pump 240V supply?
Thanks,
Drew
SV Revelation


[Amel] Re: Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Hi Giovammi,

Yes, I received 2 binders. One has a printed copy of the PowerPoint
presentation that was given and the other is a shop manual type of binder.

I am fairly sure that these items are copyrighted. However, if they
are not I will see about scanning them and posting them on this
website. I will have an opportunity to do that when we fly from New
Zealand to the US in December.

Best,

Bill Rouse,
s/v BeBe
anchored Opua, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Giovanni Testa"
<gtesta23@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
during the workshop did you received Yanmar documentation to post
for Group ?
Your experince may be very practical for Yanmar 4JH3 owners.
Thanks so much
Giovanni TESTA
s/v EUTIKIA SM2k n 428

----- Original Message -----
From: svbebe
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Yanmar 100HP engine oil change


I attended a 3-day diesel workshop sponsored by Yanmar. I worked on,
assembled, and disassembled a 4JH3-HTE for 3 days. The class
consisted of 12 folks, but I was the only one who owned a 4JH3-HTE so
I received 1 on 1 time.

It is easy to get confused on this issue because Yanmar makes some
engines that use synthetic oil, but not the 4JH3-HTE.

According to the Yanmar instructor, Yanmar reccomends against use of
synthetic oil in the 4JH3-HTE. I believe it has something to do with
the Turbo, but not 100% sure. He said that if you use synthetic oil
in your Yanmar during the warranty period this will void the warranty.
You are probably out of the warranty period, but with Yanmar's
position on this issue, I would advise caution. I think I will listen
to Yanmar on this issue because the downside is just not worth the
upside...

Regards,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
anchored Opua, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hkornberg" <hkornberg@>
wrote:
>
> Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having about
> 2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have envisaged
the use
> of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic oil?
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Controllato da AVG - http://www.avg.com
Versione: 8.0.175 / Database dei virus: 270.9.11/1817 - Data di
rilascio: 28/11/2008 8.17


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Bill,
during the workshop did you received Yanmar documentation to post for Group ?
Your experince may be very practical for Yanmar 4JH3 owners.
Thanks so much
Giovanni TESTA
s/v EUTIKIA SM2k n 428

----- Original Message -----
From: svbebe
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Yanmar 100HP engine oil change


I attended a 3-day diesel workshop sponsored by Yanmar. I worked on,
assembled, and disassembled a 4JH3-HTE for 3 days. The class
consisted of 12 folks, but I was the only one who owned a 4JH3-HTE so
I received 1 on 1 time.

It is easy to get confused on this issue because Yanmar makes some
engines that use synthetic oil, but not the 4JH3-HTE.

According to the Yanmar instructor, Yanmar reccomends against use of
synthetic oil in the 4JH3-HTE. I believe it has something to do with
the Turbo, but not 100% sure. He said that if you use synthetic oil
in your Yanmar during the warranty period this will void the warranty.
You are probably out of the warranty period, but with Yanmar's
position on this issue, I would advise caution. I think I will listen
to Yanmar on this issue because the downside is just not worth the
upside...

Regards,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
anchored Opua, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hkornberg" <hkornberg@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having about
> 2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have envisaged the use
> of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic oil?
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Controllato da AVG - http://www.avg.com
Versione: 8.0.175 / Database dei virus: 270.9.11/1817 - Data di rilascio: 28/11/2008 8.17


Re: Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I attended a 3-day diesel workshop sponsored by Yanmar. I worked on,
assembled, and disassembled a 4JH3-HTE for 3 days. The class
consisted of 12 folks, but I was the only one who owned a 4JH3-HTE so
I received 1 on 1 time.

It is easy to get confused on this issue because Yanmar makes some
engines that use synthetic oil, but not the 4JH3-HTE.

According to the Yanmar instructor, Yanmar reccomends against use of
synthetic oil in the 4JH3-HTE. I believe it has something to do with
the Turbo, but not 100% sure. He said that if you use synthetic oil
in your Yanmar during the warranty period this will void the warranty.
You are probably out of the warranty period, but with Yanmar's
position on this issue, I would advise caution. I think I will listen
to Yanmar on this issue because the downside is just not worth the
upside...

Regards,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
anchored Opua, New Zealand

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hkornberg" <hkornberg@...> wrote:

Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having about
2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have envisaged the use
of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic oil?


Re: [Amel] Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

AS far as using a synthetic oil is concerned DO IT AND DO IT NOW. There are a number of very good reasons for using a synthetic oil that is designed for diesel engines;
1- Diesels like to run hot, compression is very high as are the internal temperatures of the engine. IF you lose a raw or fresh water pump the temperature of the oil can go up very fast faster then the coolant. At about 250 defF mineral oil starts to come apart synthetic does not.. it will hang in there to over 500 giving you time to shut down and be safe... like drop the hook.

2- Given that it comes as multi grade oil it has a much lower constant of friction that gives on average about a 10 percent improvement in fuel consumption.

3- Because it does not get "burned" it last longer in the motor. You can go 100 hours without an issue.


FOR you Turbo VOLVOS; keep in mind that the bearings in that thing get very hot and normal mineral oil will kill them.

I have been using it on boats with diesel engines for over 10 years with no issues at all related to lubrication. If the engine is worn you may find that you use a bit more oil that is normal.

Good luck and be sure to syn oil for diesel engines.
Richard and Joan on Challenge

--- On Thu, 11/27/08, hkornberg <hkornberg@aero-sky.com> wrote:

From: hkornberg <hkornberg@aero-sky.com>
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar 100HP engine oil change
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008, 11:29 AM
Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having
about
2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have
envisaged the use
of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic
oil?


Re: Hella fans

Ken & Judy <goldendaze@...>
 

Caframo fans made in Canada.
about 30 to 40 USD. Open rubber blade is easy to clean and
about the same or more wind. 2 speed. We are replacing all
with either the black or white. We have 13 fans. I will be
glad when all the Hell-a are gone.
Golden Daze
Maramu 192
Marmaris Turkey


Re: [Amel] Hella fans

eric freedman
 

Jeff,

I sent a few of mine to Hella.

Basically they said that's the way they are. When they are tilted they
rattle. When they are straight they do not.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rapp.jeffrey
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 10:57 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Hella fans



Hi. I'm Jeff aboard "Antares" SM 378.
I have a number of Hella fans aboard. They all seem to start to rattle
rather quickly after purchase. I presume the problem is with worn
bearings.
Does anyone else have this problem? If so, is there a fix, other than
buying new fans, which are expensive? Can anyone recommend a
different, perhaps better, brand?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff


Re: [Amel] Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

jlmertz@free.fr <jlmertz@...>
 

I am not sure that synthetic oil is a good choice,

Normally for engines that have small rpm NON synthetic oil is more
stable in time,
A learned in the past that non synthetic oil increase her performance
with time ....
Only restriction is the turbo that _perhaps_ prefer synthetic oil due to
height temperature,

On my car without turbo I never change oil and I NEVER had a problem.....
On my TMD 22P (a bad Volvo Penta engine) I put normal oil (*_and change
oil filter_*) every 500 hours our 2 years.

CottonBay
/Tout est possible dans un monde infini
/
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hkornberg a écrit :

Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having about
2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have envisaged the use
of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic oil?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Yanmar 100HP engine oil change

hkornberg
 

Hello, I have an SM200 with the Yanmar 4JH3 engine having about
2000HRS. To increase the oil change intervals, I have envisaged the use
of Synthetic lubricant. Any experience in using synthetic oil?


Hella fans

rapp.jeffrey <rapp.jeffrey@...>
 

Hi. I'm Jeff aboard "Antares" SM 378.
I have a number of Hella fans aboard. They all seem to start to rattle
rather quickly after purchase. I presume the problem is with worn
bearings.
Does anyone else have this problem? If so, is there a fix, other than
buying new fans, which are expensive? Can anyone recommend a
different, perhaps better, brand?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff


Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

Richard, I would like to add a second bilge pump and alarm.What type of pump
did you use ? Did you install in a second discharge hose or plumb it into
the primary discharge hose ?I think once I replace the two check valves / joker
valves my pump will start pumping. Happy Thanksgiving Pat&Diane

In a message dated 11/26/2008 9:58:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
richard03801@yahoo.com writes:




HI Pat, One thought if you are going to replace your pump we have a pump
that we found in the Vitus cat. that works just fine. It is wired to a float
switch in a pipe that goes into the well. We too have a second pump that is
wired to the high water alarm just in case.
hope all else is well.
Richard and Joan in Corsica SM 209

--- On Sun, 11/23/08, _sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com)
<_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) > wrote:

From: _sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) <_sailw32@aol.sai_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
Subject: Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump
To: _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 8:34 PM
Serge, You said you replaced the block holding the valves.By
"block" do you
mean the lower half of the pump housing?The pump has a
check valve but the
strainer does not have a check valve and that may very well
help.I'll buy a new
strainer with check valve.Thanks for your input.Pat /
Shenanigans


In a message dated 11/23/2008 8:20:52 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) writes:






In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
__laetitiaii@_laetiti_ (mailto:_laetitiaii@yahoo.la) _
(mailto:_laetitiaii@yahoo.la_ (mailto:laetitiaii@yahoo.ca) )
writes:

Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the
valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as
a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which
is also connected
to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which
is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed
to do the job. Once in
a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by
deactivating the
main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not
pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better
if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of
course, the pump
will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web
site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32
<__sailw32@aol.__sai
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) ) _
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) ) > a
écrit :

De: sailw32 <__sailw32@aol.__sa
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) ) _
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) ) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@À
_amelyachtowners@<WBR_amelyachtowWBR_amelyachtowWBR_amelya
(mailto:_amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) ) )
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the
diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to
get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no
avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has
anyone
changed out to some other arrangement. changed out to some ot
other arran
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M
Shenanigans

------------ ---- ---- -

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Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

In a message dated 11/26/2008 9:58:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
richard03801@yahoo.com writes:




HI Pat, One thought if you are going to replace your pump we have a pump
that we found in the Vitus cat. that works just fine. It is wired to a float
switch in a pipe that goes into the well. We too have a second pump that is
wired to the high water alarm just in case.
hope all else is well.
Richard and Joan in Corsica SM 209

--- On Sun, 11/23/08, _sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com)
<_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) > wrote:

From: _sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) <_sailw32@aol.sai_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
Subject: Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump
To: _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 8:34 PM
Serge, You said you replaced the block holding the valves.By
"block" do you
mean the lower half of the pump housing?The pump has a
check valve but the
strainer does not have a check valve and that may very well
help.I'll buy a new
strainer with check valve.Thanks for your input.Pat /
Shenanigans


In a message dated 11/23/2008 8:20:52 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) writes:






In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
__laetitiaii@_laetiti_ (mailto:_laetitiaii@yahoo.la) _
(mailto:_laetitiaii@yahoo.la_ (mailto:laetitiaii@yahoo.ca) )
writes:

Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the
valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as
a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which
is also connected
to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which
is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed
to do the job. Once in
a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by
deactivating the
main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not
pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better
if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of
course, the pump
will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web
site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32
<__sailw32@aol.__sai
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) ) _
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) ) > a
écrit :

De: sailw32 <__sailw32@aol.__sa
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) ) _
(mailto:__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) ) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@À
_amelyachtowners@<WBR_amelyachtowWBR_amelyachtowWBR_amelya
(mailto:_amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) ) )
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the
diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to
get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no
avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has
anyone
changed out to some other arrangement. changed out to some ot
other arran
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M
Shenanigans

------------ ---- ---- -

Yahoo! Groups Links

Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel
___http://cf.promos.http://cf.http://cf.http://cfhttp:/_
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(_http://cf.promos.http://cf.http://cfhttp://cf.prom_
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Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

HI Pat, One thought if you are going to replace your pump we have a pump that we found in the Vitus cat. that works just fine. It is wired to a float switch in a pipe that goes into the well. We too have a second pump that is wired to the high water alarm just in case.
hope all else is well.
Richard and Joan in Corsica SM 209

--- On Sun, 11/23/08, sailw32@aol.com <sailw32@aol.com> wrote:

From: sailw32@aol.com <sailw32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 8:34 PM
Serge, You said you replaced the block holding the valves.By
"block" do you
mean the lower half of the pump housing?The pump has a
check valve but the
strainer does not have a check valve and that may very well
help.I'll buy a new
strainer with check valve.Thanks for your input.Pat /
Shenanigans


In a message dated 11/23/2008 8:20:52 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
sailw32@aol.com writes:






In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,
_laetitiaii@yahoo.la_ (mailto:laetitiaii@yahoo.ca)
writes:

Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the
valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as
a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which
is also connected
to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which
is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed
to do the job. Once in
a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by
deactivating the
main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not
pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better
if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of
course, the pump
will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web
site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32
<__sailw32@aol._sa_
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) > a
écrit :

De: sailw32 <__sailw32@aol._sa_
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@À:
_amelyachtowners@<WBR_amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) )
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the
diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to
get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no
avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has
anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.changed out to some
other arran
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M
Shenanigans

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Re: [Amel] bilge pump

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

Have a look at the small flaps that act as non-return valves.   With time they bend and do no seal.   Try reversing them and they seal.   it works for me.
 
Regards,
 
Robin Cooter.
 
Santorin 004 Belouga

--- On Sun, 23/11/08, sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com> wrote:

From: sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com>
Subject: [Amel] bilge pump
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, 23 November, 2008, 10:28 PM

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Frank:
The only part on the macerator motor/impeller that requires regular maintenance is the
motor shaft seal and this usually requires changing about every two years (per the Jabsco
owners manual). If not changed regularly, as it wears sea water seeps by it and into the
macerator motor. Then the motor shaft corrodes and seizes. Of course the plugged
discharge hose is also a possibility. The fact that the motors don't run and they trip the
circuit breaker is a good indication that the motors are seized. Follow the instructions
about turning the motor shaft that was posted and that will give you a good idea what you
are dealing with.

One last thought, did you flush all of the lines (sea chest, to fill pump, to toilet, from toilet
to holding tank etc with fresh water prior to letting the boat sit? I flush everything
copiously with fresh water and include a half dozen flushes with vinegar water before
leaving the boat on the hard. While afloat, weekly flushing of some vinegar water from the
heads will help prevent salt buildup in the discharge hoses going to the holding tank.
Letting some vinegar water sit in the holding tank after emptying it (with the valve closed
so it doesn't all just run through) also will help keep the holding tank valve working freely.

Best of luck,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, bootlegger@... wrote:



Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco
electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcb's keep tripping
and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either
of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps
which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,
filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have
called Jabsco who were unable to help me.
As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of
urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
Amel SM2000 #321


Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
 

When this happened to me, I discovered that the discharge hose was completely blocked by calcification. This meant disassembling the white hose and clearing it by hammering, etc.

Michael, SM2000 #345






















Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco

electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcb’s keep tripping

and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either

of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps

which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,

filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have

called Jabsco who were unable to help me.

As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of

urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.



Frank Newton

Bootlegger of Mann

Amel SM2000 #321


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

John and Anne Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Frank,
I think Ian is talking about the pumps that supply the flush whereas your problem is pumping out. The pump out pumps may have siezed up whilst the boat was out of the water. To check this remove the plastic cover off the motor and you will see a slot on the outer end of the motor shaft. Try turning this to free the motor. If you succeed in getting the motor to empty the pan you should remove the pump and strip down the working parts as the seals may have gone and possibly allowed salt water to get into the bearing on that end of the motor. A squirt of WD40 should get the motor running again until you can find an electrical motor repair shop who shopuld be able to replace the seals and bearing for less than getting a new unit from Jabsco.
Not a nice job but not as nasty as sorting out a manual system.

Good flushing! Anne and John, SM319

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Shepherd
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 5:00 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge


Hi Frank,

I have not had this problem on relaunching but I would suspect that you have an airlock in the plumbing to the two pumps located on the forward engine room bulkhead, which I believe are above the water line. You may have to prime the pumps manually. Have you removed the cap to the main inlet strainer and made sure that the water level is nearly to the top and reaching the manifold that goes to the toilet pumps, anchor wash and watermaker?

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

----- Original Message -----
From: bootlegger@mailasail.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: [Amel] Help !!!! WC Non-Discharge

Since being lifted back into the water yesterday neither of my two Jabsco
electric toilets have operated. The two controlling mcb's keep tripping
and there is no discharge from the bowl due to the non-operation of either
of the two macerator/discharge pumps even though the sea water fill pumps
which are meant to operate simultaneously with them are operating fine,
filling both bowls. Result bowls are filling and not emptying. I have
called Jabsco who were unable to help me.
As you will all appreciate out there this is a problem that is in need of
urgent resolution. Hope someone is able to be of assistance to me.

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
Amel SM2000 #321

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Rép. : [Amel] Mango Hull #1 Restoration

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi David,
 
There is a rubber band which prevents water from penetrating at the base of the vertical hatch. It is similar to the rubber preventing water to run down a car door window.
It is called lip (lèvre in French)  by the builder, i bought same from Amel, to replace mine because i could not find this rubber in car parts stores..
 
As for the maintaining the hatch opened at various height or providing a controlled movement, a simple block of wood exerting a pressure on the wood rail does the job, the pressure may be set by a small knob and screw. It was installed by Amel, but it is easy to make.
 
Serge, Opéra, Mango #51

--- En date de : Mar, 25.11.08, davismel2003 <davis@jenobi.com> a écrit :

De: davismel2003 <davis@jenobi.com>
Objet: [Amel] Mango Hull #1 Restoration
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: mardi 25 Novembre 2008, 11 h 35






The AnnieM is in the process of being rebuilt and of course we face
many challenges. Today's particular challenge is to try and gather some
information on the sliding main hatch blade.
Can the downslide be controlled or does it just freefall as ours does
at the moment?
Best way to secure it, should it have a series of barrel bolt holes in
the vertical member?
How can it be made watertight? Currently when water gets on the blade
it runs in behind the companionway ladder.
Mel Davis
Kemah, Texas
















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