Date   

Outhaul shaft removal

eric freedman
 

 

 

I would start by removing the screw in the L shaped part if the outhaul pin of the Anderson winch.

 

I would then buy a long grade 10 cap screw probably 3-4 inches.

Remove the bolt and washers from the bottom of the shaft . Then screw in the cap screw about an inch . Then try pounding on the head of the bolt with a hand held sledge hammer. We call it a lump hammer.

 

In my case it didn’t work,

The key was just rusted in place.

 

I removed the boom turned it upside down on some 4x4 dunnage on the deck

I loaded the shaft down with PB blaster and let it sit for a few days. I then  went to town on it with a full size sledge hammer.

Not exactly a  surgery. It is important to hit the bolt squarely tapping strongly only raising the hammer 3 or 4 inches. Finesse with a sledge hammer..

You don’t want to break off the bolt., or do damage to the gearbox.

Once it moves a few thousands of an inch it will come out easily.

 

I sanded the rust off the shaft with a dremel tool and used the side of a dremel cut off blade to remove a few thousands of  an inch.

off of the 3 sides of the key. I now  use a liberal amount of never-seez on the shaft every 6 months. A 5 minute job.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018M5T4LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep the cap screw taped to the can of Never-Seez –convenient place to keep it.

Good luck.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 10:23 AM
To: eric freedman
Subject: Private: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gearbox greasing

 

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your response, very clear! And yes, I would like to attend to the shaft as well... Just not sure I will be able to take it out. I may have to construct a tool like Jose's to remove it. Mine has probably never been serviced in 19 years so I expect the worst...

I know you are also a big fan of the Jordan drogue and I am quite interested in having one on Carpathia. Can I ask you for your latest advice on how to fit it well with the backstays, and what you found the best setup on the SM. Any picture would help too...

Many thanks,

Guillaume


Re: Additional solar location?

ericmeury <ericmeury@...>
 

Amel Santorin.

We are finishing up our arch and have a hydrovane.  600 Watts of Solar on the ARCH.  200 on a new hard bimini. (Also have a solar hot water panel)...if i didn't have that i could probably fit 400 Watts here.  and 200 Watts in sunpower flexible panels behind the mast.  Amp air half way up the mizzen (been there since first owner in 1993)  and might install a fourwinds at the top of the mizzen


Re: Prop shaft bearing

Giorgio Ardrizzi
 

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 



Re: Prop shaft bearing

James Alton
 

Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 



Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum





Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

HI Rainer,
I've changed my cutlass bearing many times in the past (the previous owner was using a 1 3/8" cutlass bearing when he should have used 35mm!  I did the same for several years until I changed the shaft to 1 3/8".  I think I've only changed it once since then.  I have 6800 hours on the original Perkins).  My cutlass bearing extends back from the boat enough to be able to "grab" it with a puller with the shaft still in place.  After removing the propeller, first remove the set screws, drill dimples in the cutlass bearing for the puller to hold onto and pull it out.  I have a custom puller the previous owner of my boat made up from a steel plumbing pipe that just fit over the cutlass bearing.  I'll try to remember to take a photo of it on my next visit to MACCABEE.

To remove the shaft, you must lift the engine high enough to bring the shaft under the engine.  Other than the coupling, You probably don't need to disconnect anything else from the engine.  I lay a 6" x 6" wood beam across the seats on each side of the engine compartment, with a piece of 2" x 6" board under each end of the 6 x 6 to spread the load and use a chain lift chained to the 6 x 6 to raise the engine.  I may have removed the engine cover for clearance -- I can't remember.  I have only done it once in the mid 90's.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 8:28:02 AM EST, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:


Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum









Re: Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Thank you gentlemen....

On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: CAT pump mechanics needed in FLA

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

A friend recommended Watermakers, Inc, website is www.watermakers.com in Ft. Lauderdale 954-937-2415.  They would be good for general repairs i.e. the Cat Pump, membrane replacement, etc. however, they are not specifically familiar with the Dessalator.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Window reveals refurb?

amelforme
 

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…

 

Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood.

You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?

 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

 

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

 

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

 

Thanks very much guys

 

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 

 

 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

 


Re: Prop shaft bearing

amelforme
 

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Prop shaft bearing

Warren Traill
 

Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

Gerhard Mueller
 

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Window reveals refurb?

Mark Erdos
 

Miles,

On our previous boat, a Cheoy Lee, we had a lot of teak. The best thing I found was to strip the wood down and apply West System epoxy, then a few coats of varnish with UV protection. This works well and will last about 4-5 year before needing to be recoated again with varnish (no need to do the epoxy again).

Hpe this helps.


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of smiles bernard via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2019 7:47 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?


Hello

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for repair of the window reveals ?

By this I mean the exposed ply edging around the inside of the windows - photo attached

I’m not sure if the SMS have this same design but on my Maramu these ply edges get a lot is sun and in places the facing veneer is starting to delaminate.

Just sand and varnish as best possible or does anyone have any more ideas about a better fix?

Many thanks
Miles

Maramu 162


Sent from my iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Painting deck stripes - how much paint is needed??

John Clark
 

Gary, I used the single step Interlux,. I put photos of the cans on the forum...or maybe the FB group.  It works fine even in summer.  The paint is contained inside the Bugler tool so it doesn't dry out vlike it would in an open can.

I added a small amount of brush extender solvent to the mixing cup which gave me all day to work with the cup.  

Once on the deck it dried in 30 min 

John
SV Annie. SM 37
...missing the Amel Caribbean Ralley...

On Thu, Feb 28, 2019, 2:02 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I think it all points to 1-part marine paint and redeaux every 5-6 years😀. At least that is where I would up a few years ago.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Feb 28, 2019 at 12:58 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill for the confirmation of the color.  

I have read and researched using Awlgrip for the stripes (as advised by the folks who did the repairs to Liahona and did her painting).  However, having just spoken with the Interlux Awlgrip technical representative I don't see how it will be feasible to use Awlgrip.  He indicated that the pot life for Awlgrip in 85 degrees is about 15 minutes to 30 minutes.  This he says is about as long as it takes to spray the hull of a 30 ft boat, but of course we aren't spraying and need a much longer pot life for this laborious process.  

He suggested Interlux Perfection two part topsides paint that properly reduced will have about a one hour pot life at 85 degrees F.  I have used perfection in the past for some spar touch ups and it has indeed lasted well.  It does come in a Cream color that appears to be similar to the Awlgrip Cream color. AwlGrip and Perfection bothl require a two part epoxy primer for adhesion (thus adding to the manpower involved in this process) but the pot life of the primers is much longer  than the top-coats and won't be an issue.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico 





Re: Insurance updates.

John Clark
 

Hi All,
   Yes, I think everyone is paying more now.  My insurance went from $2600 to $4200, after switching companies when my insurer lost any underwriters for US boats in the Caribbean.  

On Thu, Feb 28, 2019, 3:38 PM Alexandre Uster von Baar via Groups.Io <uster=rocketmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good afternoon Gary,

Thanks for your kind message.
As you know I have always been a big fan of yours and so thankful for the countless, excellent and so precise writings you provided the forum over the years.

I am definitely sorry about the damages you experienced during the Hurricane, but I am glad that you had an overall positive insurance experience, and glad Liahona was repaired properly!   

I don’t doubt Helvetia will pay (by french law under I am governed) they have 2 years (so until November this year), but they surely try to get as much interest rate as they can…

Hope we meet one day!

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 2/28/19, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Insurance updates.
 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
 Date: Thursday, February 28, 2019, 12:49 PM

 Alexandre:  

 I am so sad to hear of the
 pain and suffering you have received at the hands of your
 insurance company.  While I can certainly understand your
 feelings about insurance companies and I don't desire to
 worsen your pain and suffering, I can say that I had a
 reasonably good experience with my insurance claim.  The
 total repairs were about $135,000, my deductible was $16,000
 and the difference was paid as a $60,000 advance to commence
 work, with the balance paid in a timely manner when work was
 completed.  I was insured by YachtInsure thru Offshore Risk
 Management (William Coates).  I was on site for 10 of the
 16 weeks of the repairs and have over 2000 photos (daily
 about 50 photos taken by someone I hired to send those
 photos to me daily when I wasn't there).  It was very
 reassuring and helpful to be actively involved in the
 repairs as I was able to advise about the Amel construction
 techniques and features.  Fortunately the rubber scupper
 extrusion material was available from Amel or I don't
 know what we would have done.  The most un-satisfactory
 part of my insurance dealings is that the same insurer will
 not now insure the boat for the surveyed value.  I had to
 buy "Excess Insurance" to bring the value up to
 the desire limit.  I think the insurers are all reacting
 (dare I say over-reacting) to their losses in the Caribbean
 from Irma and Maria.  
 I sincerely hope
 that somewhere in the companies you are dealing with there
 is someone who is honest and will pay your claim, sooner
 rather than later.  

 All
 the best to you, 

 Gary S.
 Silver
 s/v Liahona
 Amel SM
 2000 #335