Date   

US State taxes

Paul Cooper <paul.cooper74@...>
 

Hello Amelians,

We have been planning on sailing our boat-- purchased from a French owner-- to the US.  I am concerned about being hit for a large state sales tax if we leave the boat in one place (Maryland) for 2-3 months.  

Anyone know the lowdown on this and how to avoid paying a huge tax?

thanks in advance,

Paul
SM238 Maracuya
Caribbean


Re: 54

Dean Gillies
 

James,
i saw one in Leros last year. I understand they are not made by Amel. 

it seems quite functional as long as you are not a rather tall person. It is obviously more rugged than the canvas top. I think the idea is taken from the 55, but the 55 design is better in my opinion - I guess the 55 boom is maybe a little higher too?

I did not really like the aesthetic, but then many would argue that AMEL yachts are all about the triumph of function at the expense of form!  😜 

Cheers,Dean
SY Stella 
A54-154



Re: 54

 
Edited

You might want to take contact: Emek Marine for a 54 hardtop. Here is a photo of the inside of their 54 hardtop:

 For information or ordering, please email RIZA <cagdas@...>. For 54 clients of Amel School, there is a discount on this hardtop.


Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, Mar 2, 2019 at 2:34 PM james Hosford via Groups.Io <jay.hosford=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
Saw a 54 with s hard dodger and fiberglass arch.   Both looked well done and wondered if they were maybe an option from Amel I've never heard abt.    Not sure abt the look but think maybe not having canvas would be more practical .     Wondered what everyones thoughts were?




Re: Crew opprtunity

eric freedman
 

Paul,

When you get down to your short list of crew, call Hank and ask him if he knows of them-his insight can be invaluable. I always call my possible crew when I get to the short list.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Osterberg
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2019 8:15 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Crew opprtunity

 

Thanks Eric 
Will try that
Paul 


Re: Crew opprtunity

Paul Osterberg
 

Thanks Eric 
Will try that
Paul 


Re: Crew opprtunity

eric freedman
 

Ps there is no cost to the owner of the boat.

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2019 7:42 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Crew opprtunity

 

Paul,

Have you tried Offshore Passage Opportunities. I have used them many times in the past and have gotten very good crew. There is no cost to you and the crew has to get themselves to and back to your boat on their own resources. The owner of OPO , Hank,  has an email list and the recipients pay to receive the email. If it is early enough in the season I usually get 10-15 resumes.

 

Google them, speak with Hank and mention me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Osterberg
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2019 3:28 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Crew opprtunity

 

Would you like to cross the Atlantic? We looking for a crew for the crossing between Bermuda and The Azores departure around June first, weather permitting. Would prefere a couples with some experience who can manage a watch, but also contribute to the atmsophere aboard. Are you thinking of buying a SM, or have an Amel but lack the experience of a longer crossing this make be a good opportunity. You find more about us on our blogg sykerpa.com.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Crew opprtunity

eric freedman
 

Paul,

Have you tried Offshore Passage Opportunities. I have used them many times in the past and have gotten very good crew. There is no cost to you and the crew has to get themselves to and back to your boat on their own resources. The owner of OPO , Hank,  has an email list and the recipients pay to receive the email. If it is early enough in the season I usually get 10-15 resumes.

 

Google them, speak with Hank and mention me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Osterberg
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2019 3:28 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Crew opprtunity

 

Would you like to cross the Atlantic? We looking for a crew for the crossing between Bermuda and The Azores departure around June first, weather permitting. Would prefere a couples with some experience who can manage a watch, but also contribute to the atmsophere aboard. Are you thinking of buying a SM, or have an Amel but lack the experience of a longer crossing this make be a good opportunity. You find more about us on our blogg sykerpa.com.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

Tom,

   I have not used the two part Epifanes varnish so cannot answer that part of your question.  I have however used other two part and single part varnishes on cabin soles over the years and might have some input that could be helpful.  Awl grip makes a two part varnish called Awl-brite that is definitely more durable from a scratching perspective than any of the single part varnishes we have used.  It also has one really nice feature in that you can sand and polish the surface, removing imperfections and also patching in perfectly when required using the same process.  I don’t know if the Epifanes product has this same quality but it would be worth looking into as dings invariably occur over time.  On the downside, there seems to be a correlation between the hardness of the varnish and how slippery it is.  It seems that a softer varnish gives you a bit more traction which can make the difference between slipping and not.  With the Awlgrip we had to add glass beads to some areas of the cabin sole which were angled to to improve the grip,  this probably would not have been required with the single part.  The glass beads roughen the surface but otherwise disappear since you can see through them.  They can also be sanded down when the time comes for refinishing.  The Awl-brite varnish is very toxic to apply, requiring good ventilation and a carbon mask at a minimum.  The Awl-brite and every other 2 part varnish we have used so far tend to become cloudy over time if exposed to much UV.  This is not a problem down below but in Florida  resulted in stripping the fully exposed exterior varnishwork on a 54’ boat every 4 years or so, a huge job that could have been avoided with a good single part and regular recoating.  On the other hand the The Awl-brite did not require nearly as much recoating,  we would sometimes go 2 years between recoating.  With varnishing there does not seem to be any perfect solution.  
   I have used numerous other Epifanes products,  paints, primers and fillers and all have been top quality and worked as expected.  I would be surprised if the 2 part varnish was not also an excellent product, please let me know what you find out.

Best,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 2, 2019, at 12:59 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hi all has anyone tried the two part Epifanes I did the floors two years ago and they look great.
Tom S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu #125
Guadeloupe 


On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:32 AM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Miles,

   We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish.  The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour.  I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues?  It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed.   Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together.  Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish.  The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time.  You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour.  The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar.  I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 





Re: Prop shaft bearing

James Alton
 

Dennis,

   Thanks for your input.  The previous owner removed the large shaft mounted pulley before I bought my boat which made me wonder why this was done.  I am very happy to hear that properly setup up the Amel shaft generator does not vibrate as I am viewing this device as a great source of power on long passages.  

Best,

James

On Mar 2, 2019, at 3:17 PM, sbmesasailor via Groups.Io <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:

I have the same experience as Giorgio -no vibrations resulting from the alternator, just some belt noise when propeller free-wheeling.

Dennis


54

james Hosford
 

Saw a 54 with s hard dodger and fiberglass arch. Both looked well done and wondered if they were maybe an option from Amel I've never heard abt. Not sure abt the look but think maybe not having canvas would be more practical . Wondered what everyones thoughts were?


Crew opprtunity

Paul Osterberg
 

Would you like to cross the Atlantic? We looking for a crew for the crossing between Bermuda and The Azores departure around June first, weather permitting. Would prefere a couples with some experience who can manage a watch, but also contribute to the atmsophere aboard. Are you thinking of buying a SM, or have an Amel but lack the experience of a longer crossing this make be a good opportunity. You find more about us on our blogg sykerpa.com.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Prop shaft bearing

sbmesasailor
 

I have the same experience as Giorgio -no vibrations resulting from the alternator, just some belt noise when propeller free-wheeling.

Dennis


Stuffing Box Repair- SM2K #422

Thomas Kleman
 

I like this site best when someone poses a problem, then updates the group on progress/lack thereof on the solution. Here is my update.

My stuffing box nut was down to the last quarter turn and I was hauled out doing a bottom job. I thought I would just repack the stuffing box and the problem would be solved (hopefully). 

First, I took the quadrant off. This took 6 hours because it was completely rusted to rudder post. The rust was underneath, and had not been visible when looking down on the quadrant. After escalating force was applied I ended up using a puller tool which I layed across the top of the rudder post and pulled on the non-threaded holes that hold the opposing quadrant section. It was unbelievable how much force this required and the quadrant didn't "pop" like a propeller but rather fought every millimeter of the way. Not a bad idea to spray penetrating oil on this junction as a maintenance routine.

After removing the nut and the old packing material I repacked it with 3 Amel supplied pre-cut rings. The nut would not engage with the threads, despite the material being very well packed down. If I took one ring out, the nut would engage..........barely.

I reached out to this site as well as Alban at Amel Caraibes.......he said 2 rings would "probably be OK".....not a ringing endorsement.......and suggested a rethreading exercise which I only partially understood how to operationalize.

Based on Eric's (Kimberlite) suggestion on this site, I fabricated a "2nd story" onto my stuffing box. This involved taking the plastic nut, protecting it with teflon tape, and then wrapping about 10 mm of it with fiberglass around the threads. This created a kind of washer that was threaded on the inside to fit the nut. This washer ended up being 10 mm tall with walls that were 20 mm thick.......and very strong.

I considered using resin only, which would have allowed me to make a mold for dipping the nut into.......but opted for the messier (but I think stronger) fabrication method of wrapping strips of cloth impregnated resin around it. It was a windy day in the cockpit and there were times during the fabrication phase that I regretted my choice.

Anyway, the dried finished product was far less precise than I had imagined in my head when doing the planning, however I was able to sand it into the perfect shape. The stuffing box nut turned perfectly inside my new "washer". I mounted the washer atop the stuffing box with 5200 and screws and am now able to put 4-5 rings of stuffing in the box. No leaks. Thanks, Eric.

Knowing what I know now about this system and project, I wish there had been a source for the part which I created. This would definitely have been worth buying and having on the boat. The most surprising thing about this whole exercise was the difficulty in removing the quadrant. The boat is a 2004 and the stuffing box had leaked (or better weeped) only twice.......and yet the rudder post and quadrant were seized very tightly, and rusted in a way that was largely invisible to the eye.

Anyway, everything is good now and once again thank you to the 8 folks who responded to my initial posting and helped me get this done.

Thomas Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K #422
Colon, Panama


Re: Window reveals refurb?

amel46met
 

Hi all has anyone tried the two part Epifanes I did the floors two years ago and they look great.
Tom S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu #125
Guadeloupe 


On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:32 AM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Miles,

   We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish.  The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour.  I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues?  It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed.   Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together.  Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish.  The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time.  You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour.  The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar.  I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 




Re: Prop shaft bearing

amelforme
 

Hi Rainer and I must admit to being a little confused, which is not at all uncommon for me. When you say “Dripping Volvo shaft seal” are you referring to the stuffing box in the engine room where the propeller shaft exits the engine room? You mention” Volvo shaft seal”. Did you replace the conventional greased flax stuffing box the boat was delivered with when new with something from Volvo?

If you have an original and 30++ year old Cutless/stern bearing, it could cause the problems you mention. When you grab the propeller and forcibly move it up and down and then side to side, is there a lot of movement? When you look at where the shaft comes out, behind the propeller, can you see the black nitral rubber that is inside the bronze sleeve around the propeller shaft?

Perhaps some photos of the shaft inside the engine room and the engine room shaft seal as well as the cutless/stern tube bearing would be helpful.

Again, if only the cutless/stern bearing has failed, you do not need to move the engine at all. Replacing the cutless/stern bearing is done entirely from the outside of the boat.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2019 8:41 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Rainer,

 

   Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak.  I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail?  I have run a boat once with a completely failed  stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible.    Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop?  Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed?  You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand.  Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it.  The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated.  The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel.  You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again,  you should get the same readings of course.  I hope that you find the problem,  best of luck.

 

   Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup.  I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing.

 

James

 

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:00 AM, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:

 

Thank you all for the feedback,

Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there.

I checked the prop but it looks fine.

I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong.

So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years.

I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜

My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this?

Thanx already 

Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll


On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.

In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life

Maybe yours is an alignment problem.

 

Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:

Hello,

 

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

 

Thanks,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

 

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

 

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121

 

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:

 

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Prop shaft bearing

James Alton
 

Rainer,

   Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak.  I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail?  I have run a boat once with a completely failed  stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible.    Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop?  Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed?  You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand.  Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it.  The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated.  The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel.  You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again,  you should get the same readings of course.  I hope that you find the problem,  best of luck.

   Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup.  I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:00 AM, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:

Thank you all for the feedback,
Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there.
I checked the prop but it looks fine.
I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong.
So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years.
I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜
My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this?
Thanx already 
Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll

On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum









Re: Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Thank you all for the feedback,
Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there.
I checked the prop but it looks fine.
I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong.
So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years.
I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜
My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this?
Thanx already 
Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll

On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

Miles,

   We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish.  The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour.  I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues?  It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed.   Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together.  Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish.  The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time.  You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour.  The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar.  I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 




Outhaul shaft removal

eric freedman
 

 

 

I would start by removing the screw in the L shaped part if the outhaul pin of the Anderson winch.

 

I would then buy a long grade 10 cap screw probably 3-4 inches.

Remove the bolt and washers from the bottom of the shaft . Then screw in the cap screw about an inch . Then try pounding on the head of the bolt with a hand held sledge hammer. We call it a lump hammer.

 

In my case it didn’t work,

The key was just rusted in place.

 

I removed the boom turned it upside down on some 4x4 dunnage on the deck

I loaded the shaft down with PB blaster and let it sit for a few days. I then  went to town on it with a full size sledge hammer.

Not exactly a  surgery. It is important to hit the bolt squarely tapping strongly only raising the hammer 3 or 4 inches. Finesse with a sledge hammer..

You don’t want to break off the bolt., or do damage to the gearbox.

Once it moves a few thousands of an inch it will come out easily.

 

I sanded the rust off the shaft with a dremel tool and used the side of a dremel cut off blade to remove a few thousands of  an inch.

off of the 3 sides of the key. I now  use a liberal amount of never-seez on the shaft every 6 months. A 5 minute job.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018M5T4LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep the cap screw taped to the can of Never-Seez –convenient place to keep it.

Good luck.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 10:23 AM
To: eric freedman
Subject: Private: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gearbox greasing

 

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your response, very clear! And yes, I would like to attend to the shaft as well... Just not sure I will be able to take it out. I may have to construct a tool like Jose's to remove it. Mine has probably never been serviced in 19 years so I expect the worst...

I know you are also a big fan of the Jordan drogue and I am quite interested in having one on Carpathia. Can I ask you for your latest advice on how to fit it well with the backstays, and what you found the best setup on the SM. Any picture would help too...

Many thanks,

Guillaume


Re: Additional solar location?

ericmeury <ericmeury@...>
 

Amel Santorin.

We are finishing up our arch and have a hydrovane.  600 Watts of Solar on the ARCH.  200 on a new hard bimini. (Also have a solar hot water panel)...if i didn't have that i could probably fit 400 Watts here.  and 200 Watts in sunpower flexible panels behind the mast.  Amp air half way up the mizzen (been there since first owner in 1993)  and might install a fourwinds at the top of the mizzen