Date   
Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Dan Wilcox
 

Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:


Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

Re: Forward head faucet

seagasm
 

Arlo, most items these days are generally available from hardware outlets for example, https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-chrome-handspray_p4790532 here in Australia and New Zealand. An identical mixer is also available, I think I purchased mine for about $32.00.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171

Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

amel46met
 

The Tab at the top of my galvanized hawse pipe had one of the windlass bolts thru it and encased in fiberglass before it rusted away. I still have to replace the pipe and some of the floor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
Maramu 125


On Mar 6, 2019, at 1:44 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Gary,

   Perhaps Amel felt that the galvanized hawse would be less likely to corrode the chain due to dissimilar metals?  As long as the hawse had zinc left on it, it would help to protect the steel in the chain.   The fibreglass pipe idea is interesting to me since it could be made strong and would never corrode.   Eliminating the joint between the hawse and the fibreglass on the locker panels joints would be a good thing by keeping water from getting into the plywood at the hawse hole in the event that the caulking failed. The one problem is that fibreglass is not very resistant to chafe and in wearing the pipe down you will have some fibreglass fibers floating around...  I am thinking of using the fibreglass pipe idea but adding a replaceable plastic liner.  I am thinking of using a more slippery plastic than PVC but it sounds like it it working out well for some and would be a simple solution.  I am sure that you could also fashion a new hawse from 316 stainless that would wear well without a liner.  Lots of good ideas on the forum.
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Mar 6, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico

Re: Forward head faucet

Mark Erdos
 

The brand is Grohe – I seriously doubt if the same model would still be available that was used on the SM. The home industry changes models and styles frequently. The closest they have to day would be Grohtherm 1000. Perhaps the European sites had different models.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Arlo
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2019 3:02 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head faucet

 

Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo

Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Aras Grinius <n33077@...>
 

Kudos to the editors
Sv fiasco

Re: Forward head faucet

Arlo
 

Thanks Bill I will check it out. Really appreciate this new platform and all the support you give to the group and me!

Re: Forward head faucet

 
Edited

Arlo,

SM fixtures are made by GROHE. The attached might help you.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 1:01 PM Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:
Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo

Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

 

All,

You are probably not aware that SM owner Gary Silver has edited almost 600 of your photos in the photos section of this website and SM owner Andrew Lamb has also been updating and editing photos. WOW!

The reason for this effort is that when you upload a photo with a camera-assigned name like IMG-00001, the search engine will not find it when someone may be searching for exactly what you updated. Hopefully between Gary and Andrew's efforts we will have close to 100% of all photos properly named.

I am asking everyone to ensure that any photo you add to the Photo section is named logicly and in such a way that it will become searchable. Also, if you are not sure which ALBUM to add it to, please note that I set up 6 General albums:

1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
2. Electronics & Electrical
3. Mechanical - anything that turns or moves, except if it should be in #1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
4. Plumbing
5. Miscellaneous
6. Amel Photo Album -A place to post your boat pictures and glamour shots


Please try to use this organization methodology because it will certainly benefit each of us, sooner or later.

Photos which are attached to emails are automatically placed in an Album named EMAILED PHOTOS. We are going to attempt to move those photos to one of the above 6 albums, but this may be a challenge for us. If we can get it figured out, we will move them once a month, empting the EMAILED PHOTOS album.

--
 
Best,
 
Bill

Forward head faucet

Arlo
 

Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

And a pvc conduit for wiring from fore to aft in the cockpit locker...

And the air intake to the engine room. 

And...  ?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Mayaguana, Bahamas

Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

James Alton
 

Gary,

   Perhaps Amel felt that the galvanized hawse would be less likely to corrode the chain due to dissimilar metals?  As long as the hawse had zinc left on it, it would help to protect the steel in the chain.   The fibreglass pipe idea is interesting to me since it could be made strong and would never corrode.   Eliminating the joint between the hawse and the fibreglass on the locker panels joints would be a good thing by keeping water from getting into the plywood at the hawse hole in the event that the caulking failed. The one problem is that fibreglass is not very resistant to chafe and in wearing the pipe down you will have some fibreglass fibers floating around...  I am thinking of using the fibreglass pipe idea but adding a replaceable plastic liner.  I am thinking of using a more slippery plastic than PVC but it sounds like it it working out well for some and would be a simple solution.  I am sure that you could also fashion a new hawse from 316 stainless that would wear well without a liner.  Lots of good ideas on the forum.
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 

On Mar 6, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

I'm not planning on glassing the pipe in place as I want the ability to remove it easily. I will use two end flanges; one below the windlass under the deck and one below the floor of the bow locker. That holds it in place and allows removal by taking off the bottom flange.

Had it been installed that way originally I probably wouldn't have this problem. I'm making my access door in the floor of the port bow locker right next to the pipe so I can reach the flange if necessary.

Hawse Pipe Replacement

Gary Silver
 

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Warren,
Sorry, I don't recall the exact diameter but it was essentially the same as the original, to the closest US size I could find. It's not too critical since you're glassing in the new one so there's wiggle room. I only took "gee whiz" pictures of the old rotted out tube, but a picture of the finished job may not be very informative since it looks just like the old one (before it rusted out :-)
Best, Craig SN68 Sangaris

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Craig,

You might have missed a few, but you named one that I never noticed. AND, I can't say for sure that you missed anything.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Mar 6, 2019, 8:42 AM Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Olivier,
That sounds like a fun challenge question - here are my guesses:
1. the pipe down the port side for the steering cables
2. starboard from nav station to aft locker for SSB cables
3. starboard from forward hanging locker to nav station for sonic speed, depth and wind cables
4. in the overhead from galley to mast/boom etc. electrics above head.
5. down aft side of nav station, across floor at bulkhead to engine room for various cables
6. from port seat lazarette to galley for the line that locks the seat cover
7. inside port bow locker up high for running light wires
I'm sure I missed a few!
Cheers, Craig

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Olivier,
That sounds like a fun challenge question - here are my guesses:
1. the pipe down the port side for the steering cables
2. starboard from nav station to aft locker for SSB cables
3. starboard from forward hanging locker to nav station for sonic speed, depth and wind cables
4. in the overhead from galley to mast/boom etc. electrics above head.
5. down aft side of nav station, across floor at bulkhead to engine room for various cables
6. from port seat lazarette to galley for the line that locks the seat cover
7. inside port bow locker up high for running light wires
I'm sure I missed a few!
Cheers, Craig

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Thomas, Mark, Bill, Warren, and all happy Amel owners,

PVC can be difficult to glass with polyester or epoxy if not correctly prepared. The best way is to sand the place where the GRP will be applied, and degrease it with aceton.
Replacing the hawse pipe with PVC or other stiff plastic materials is OK. The only worry indeed is the chain wear inside the tube, so, you should opt for a thick one.

There are in fact two master pieces (and several minor pieces) of PVC tubes in your Amel boats, bonded with the hull and deck, and that I never heard of in terms of weakness or delamination. I let you guess what these pieces are.

Answer tomorrow.

Olivier.

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 1:40:59 PM GMT+1, Bill Kinney via Groups.Io <greatketch@...> wrote:


Thomas,

PVC is one good choice, another is fiberglass. There is FRP tubing available, and some supplies will sell short pieces cut to length. The advantage of it over PVC is that it can be glassed in easily. Neither epoxy nor polyester resins will reliably stick to PVC, but would bond well with FRP tube. In the unlikely event the chain ever wore through it, it would be easy to patch. 

Both would be long lasting. You selection might depend on your method of securing it. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Mayaguana, Bahamas 

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Thomas,

PVC is one good choice, another is fiberglass. There is FRP tubing available, and some supplies will sell short pieces cut to length. The advantage of it over PVC is that it can be glassed in easily. Neither epoxy nor polyester resins will reliably stick to PVC, but would bond well with FRP tube. In the unlikely event the chain ever wore through it, it would be easy to patch. 

Both would be long lasting. You selection might depend on your method of securing it. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Mayaguana, Bahamas 

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Mark Erdos
 

If memory serves me correctly, I recall PVC not being totally compatible to fiberglass resins and epoxies. I would suggest structural fiberglass tubing as an option.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Warren Traill
Sent: Tuesday, March 5, 2019 11:46 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Thanks Craig. We have to replace our hawse pipe too. Good information. What diameter of PVC did you use?

And could you possibly put up a photo of your finished job?

Cheers,

Warren

Manon2

Sharki#15

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, 6 March 2019 9:48 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Hello Thomas,
I replaced my hawse pipe with Schedule 80 PVC pipe 3 or 4 years ago (you can search my posts and find more detail.)  Schedule 80 is a little thicker than Schedule 40 and so far it is perfect - no visible wear after - just guessing - 100 anchorings. It was not available at the usual "big box' stores like Home Depot or Lowes, but I found it at a lawn sprinkler supplier. An option might be the grey PVC electrical conduit which is easy to find and inexpensive. Frankly, I would not hesitate to use Schedule 40 - it is all pretty tough stuff and it would not be a big job to replace after a few years if it were to wear. It is totally compatible with polyester resin and fiberglass to fasten it in to your locker floor replacement panels. 
Craig SN68 Sangaris.