Date   

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

James Alton
 

Thomas,

   Glad to see that you are getting some good direction from Craig.  I would definitely take his advice about pre glassing the bottom of the panels.  I would only suggest that:

1.  If you are going to use plywood again to do everything that you can to seal all edges, holes to prevent water from getting in there again.  
2.  I think that it is most cost effective to spend some money up front and use a high quality marine plywood of a wood species that has a “durable” rating. Some options would be a solid core Sapele,  Fir (be sure all plys are Fir, often only the faces are Fir these days, Bruyneel etc. so that you have rot resistant wood that will last quite a while even after the water gets in. (the anchor locker is a perpetually wet environment when the boat is in use without doing a lot of work so eventually water will get in)   Any of these quality plywoods should have a waterproof glue but be absolutely sure that at the minimum you have an exterior rating.  Many of the best Marine plywoods will bear the Loyds stamp.

Best of luck with your project,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 8, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Day 1 of the bow locker floor replacement. I'm reminded of the elder Moltke's tenet that no plan survives first contact with the enemy. As I cut the port bow locker's floor out, the 3 inch lip I was leaving to later mount the new floor on completely separated (wood from the fiberglass). Now there is only a 3 inch thin fiberglass lip with no plywood underneath it. There was no structure holding the plywood up from underneath along the port side. It seems to have been glassed/supported from the top only. When water penetrated the wood the fiberglass broke away. When the time comes to install the new floor, I suppose I will need to create the lip I thought would still be in place......thoughts ? 


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

Craig- did you reinforce under the floor in any way or is all the hold coming from the sides and top tabbing (the thin fiberglass lip notwithstanding). I feel like I should have some kind of wedge shaped support underneath it but that might be overkill.....or can there be overkill on something like this ?


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

amel46met
 

Hello 
Does anyone in the group use a Max Prop with the shaft alternator I have read that it does work any tricks?
Tom Deasy 
Maramu 125


On Mar 8, 2019, at 8:10 AM, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the data my shiney new clamp meter is giving me. I need to read a book I think.
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: Ian <parkianj@...>
Date: 08/03/2019 11:52 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian




Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

Better to pay attention to someone who actually did it themselves than someone who paid Amel to do it J

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 8, 2019 1:42 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Hi Thomas,
Yes, that's how they come out, which is good as you are now rid of all the old rotted wood.

After sanding and cleaning that lip and 3-ish inches up on the hull, I applied a generous amount of a peanut butter consistency mix of resin and chopped strand to the thin lip. I had glassed my new plywood both top and bottom and simply laid that into the wet "putty" (I had used "bonding" resin on the floor board coverings, but you could sand and acetone wash if it's cured.) 

Then I filled the gap between the new floor board and hull side, forming a smooth fillet up the side of the hull about 3/4" inch.  Next I tabbed the floor onto the hull sides, with the tabbing starting about 3 or 4 inches in on the floor, smoothly across the fillet, and then 3 -4 inches up the inside of the hull. 

I think I've probably got a stronger structure than the original.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Thomas,
Yes, that's how they come out, which is good as you are now rid of all the old rotted wood.

After sanding and cleaning that lip and 3-ish inches up on the hull, I applied a generous amount of a peanut butter consistency mix of resin and chopped strand to the thin lip. I had glassed my new plywood both top and bottom and simply laid that into the wet "putty" (I had used "bonding" resin on the floor board coverings, but you could sand and acetone wash if it's cured.) 

Then I filled the gap between the new floor board and hull side, forming a smooth fillet up the side of the hull about 3/4" inch.  Next I tabbed the floor onto the hull sides, with the tabbing starting about 3 or 4 inches in on the floor, smoothly across the fillet, and then 3 -4 inches up the inside of the hull. 

I think I've probably got a stronger structure than the original.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Mark Erdos
 

Is it possible to cut 3” wide stripes of the marine plywood. (they may not need to be this wide) cut to length. Resin these to the hull and bulkhead making a new shelf. You will probably have to grind the existing area to ensure it is clean before applying resin and cloth. You will also have to rig up a support to ensure they do not slip during the drying time.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Friday, March 8, 2019 12:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Day 1 of the bow locker floor replacement. I'm reminded of the elder Moltke's tenet that no plan survives first contact with the enemy. As I cut the port bow locker's floor out, the 3 inch lip I was leaving to later mount the new floor on completely separated (wood from the fiberglass). Now there is only a 3 inch thin fiberglass lip with no plywood underneath it. There was no structure holding the plywood up from underneath along the port side. It seems to have been glassed/supported from the top only. When water penetrated the wood the fiberglass broke away. When the time comes to install the new floor, I suppose I will need to create the lip I thought would still be in place......thoughts ? 


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

Day 1 of the bow locker floor replacement. I'm reminded of the elder Moltke's tenet that no plan survives first contact with the enemy. As I cut the port bow locker's floor out, the 3 inch lip I was leaving to later mount the new floor on completely separated (wood from the fiberglass). Now there is only a 3 inch thin fiberglass lip with no plywood underneath it. There was no structure holding the plywood up from underneath along the port side. It seems to have been glassed/supported from the top only. When water penetrated the wood the fiberglass broke away. When the time comes to install the new floor, I suppose I will need to create the lip I thought would still be in place......thoughts ? 


Re: propeller Zinc

Paul Stascavage
 

When we purchased RK she was equipped with the zinc on the auto prop and the bonding system was tested and intact. A short time after moving aboard, I noticed the main bonding wire had become detached from the rudder post and I corrected this immediately. We hauled for paint no too long afterwards and I was glad we had that zinc on the prop. Approximately 25 percent was gone.

I have no idea how long that bonding wire was disconnected but I don’t think it could have been much more than a couple months. In my opinion I think the prop zinc is a good backup for ‘just in case’ situations.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

James Alton
 

Thomas,

     PVC could work but I was envisioning using a more slippery plastic than PVC for the sacrificial plastic bushing.  Perhaps Nylon?  I would suggest shaping the part without any square edges for the chain to catch on with a good size flange that would rest on the bottom face of the anchor locker.  It may be difficult to find anything that fits the ID of your PVC pipe since things are generally sized to fit the outside of PVC pipe, hence this would probably be a custom part turned on a lathe.  The good news is that you could probably install the bushing at a later date giving you time to find or have something made and shipped to you which  could save you that bone jarring ride.  

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 8, 2019, at 7:02 AM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

James- I like your idea, although it sends me on a 45 minute bone jarring cab ride here in Colon, Panama to a ferreteria. Would you make it out of pvc or something else ?


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the data my shiney new clamp meter is giving me. I need to read a book I think.
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: Ian <parkianj@...>
Date: 08/03/2019 11:52 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian




Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

James- I like your idea, although it sends me on a 45 minute bone jarring cab ride here in Colon, Panama to a ferreteria. Would you make it out of pvc or something else ?


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Ian Park
 

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian


Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

This is the set up on Sharki #96 Sea Hobo. I can't detect any charge at all, but it is very smooth. 
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Gary Silver
 

I did think of one reason to use plastic/PVC/FRP for the hawse pipe; at night in a rolling anchorage you won't be as likely to hear the clanking of the anchor chain in the hawse pipe. ;-)

Gary


Re: Faux Teak and Deck Paint

James Alton
 

Jose,

   The original finish for the faux teak and the stripes were done originally in Polyester gel coat.  Apparently the stripes were hand painted in according to what I have read recently.  Awl grip can be mixed to any colour desired so matching is possible.  Awl grip is a good paint and properly applied can last decade or more in the elements though a deck does get a lot of traffic so maybe less there depending on usage.   I did get 20 years with a custom textured nonskid pattern using Awlgrip on my previous boat and it still looked good when I sold the boat.   I am not sure of how one would properly prepare the textured surface of the gel coat on the Amel deck without losing the original detail of the wood grain in case that is important to you.  Also, applying Awlgrip without some kind of a nonskid coating would probably be quite slick and I don’t like the Awlgrip skidless additives which are high density polypropylene that become quite slick if the paint chips off.  I do have a solution to produce a textured pattern as mentioned above that is very skidless but it will cover the detail in the original of the simulated wood grain.  Nonetheless this is the direction I am considering going in the future.  In the meantime the thick original polyester gel coat may develop cracks and become thin in some spots but will still last a long time.    If you do some searching there should be other discussion about the Amel decks that could be helpful to you.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 7, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Dear Amelian brother and sisters: 

What kind of paint has been used for the faux teak boards?  
Is there Awlgrip paint colors for the faux teak boards and for the rest of deck?  If not what paint/color has been used for them.When it gets a little warmer I would like to do both the faux teak boards and the stripes, and a year from now have the rest of the deck done.
Any suggestions?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K #278.
Freezing in Boston harbor.


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+ light

Scott SV Tengah
 

Thanks Bill, you're likely right.

But I am going to reach out to Marco to see what they say. I wanted to open it but the manual clearly states that the warranty becomes void if I try to service it!


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+

Scott SV Tengah
 

That's right, the MASS light is lit up when I go to the "+" side. There is 25-26v if I touch one multimeter lead to the pump body and the other to battery negative. 

Currently I've disconnected the bonding wire and of course, the light went out. Once we go to the boatyard for unrelated items in the future, I'll investigate further. With fresh water going through it, I presume not having the bonding wire connected is likely harmless?

Brent - I have tried to connect a wire to the Amel 24v panel freshwater pump light to the red wire (positive) AFTER the pump controller, so between the pump controller and the pump motor. On the UP6/E it's external, so easy to tap into that circuit. For some reason that wire is always energized, even when the pump isn't running. I guess when the controller doesn't want the pump to run, it puts out enough current to light up the Amel 24v panel light, but not enough to run the pump.


Re: Faux Teak and Deck Paint

Arlo
 

I would love to know as well...


Re: propeller Zinc

 

Craig,

Correct, I meant all Amels delivered with an AutoProp. Sorry for the confusion I may have caused.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 1:31 PM Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Point well taken, Bill, although my Santorin was delivered with a fixed 3-blade prob with a conical bronze nut holding it onto the prop shaft. I don't think Amel put Auto-props on the Santorins as the shaft generator was part of the design and needs a fixed prop (or locking feathering one).
Cheers, Craig Briggs SN68


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Gary et al,

The bolt in question is the starboard aft position. Without it in place and the winch loaded up the whole winch moved so it isn't a question of where was the deck flexing. The body of the winch, without that bolt was bring pulled to lean forward. It was particularly noticeable when breaking the anchor free. I have no reason to believe there was any other cause and I noted once again the Captains attention to detail in not relying on a GRP deck but adding the certain strength of the bolt through the flange onto the hawse pipe. With that bolt in place movement is NIL and has been so for many years. So again I commend caution and attention to this detail when choosing a repair system. The load on the anchor winch can at times be considerable, we are not always anchored in calm water on a clean bottom with little wind.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl


With On 08 March 2019 at 08:07 "Gary Silver via Groups.Io" <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Danny:

Thanks for that re-iteration.  Can you describe in more detail where the deck was flexing?  Was it just at the bolt location or over a wider area?  The deck is stiffened also by the vertical fore-aft wall between the port and starboard sides.   Was the tab on the hawse pipe acting merely as a backing plate or was it the fiberglass collar with the hawse pipe as an assemblage that provided stiffening. 

I remember years ago Joel warned against attaching an inner forestay to the cleat on the winch or to the decking in that area without carrying the loads down to tougher structure.  

Thanks for any additional insight you might provide. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335