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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Colin and Lauren,
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Thanks for your input. I am hearing nothing but great things about the Rocna and am sure that it would be a big upgrade from my current anchor. I am still not sure of which anchor to go with. I like the idea of going with a longer rode but apparently beyond 80m on the Maramu the chain castles are a problem. I am thinking of looking into a way to locate the last 20-30M into the very bow of the locker which would allow the extra length but require manually reloading the first bit of chain if it was ever used. If you make it all of the way to Florida, I might be able to help you with the chain but it sounds like you are headed West. Fair winds! James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Michael,
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This is great information, thanks! I am comfortable with the Med. mooring using the lazy lines but laying the anchor and backing down will be new. I currently only have 120’ of chain on the boat so I will be ordering new chain with the anchor. How much chain would you suggest I carry for harbour moorings in Greece? We are carrying a chain hook which will hopefully help with crossed lines or snagged anchors and also some kink free floaty line for running a long stern line ashore when needed. Thanks for all of your helpful suggestions! If we cross paths, the beer or wine is on me! Best, James SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Thankyou Olivier. Your explanation is abundantly clear to me and a relief to know that my practise of engaging reverse while sailing has been the right one. Cheers, Warren
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, 12 March 2019 4:13 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator
Hello Warrren,
on a Sharki with fixed prop, while sailing, you should stop the propeller by engaging reverse. This will reduce noise and packing stuff wear. There will be a "clunk" which could surprise you but don't worry, the clutch shock when you engage forward or reverse with the engine ON is stronger (there is more power from the engine towards the propeller when it is running than from the prop to the engine --through the gear-box--when the engine is OFF). This true for every boat with a fixed prop and mechanic gear-box.
For those with Autoprop and mechanic gear-box (mainly SMs), they engage forward in order to stop the prop spinning. They don't necessarily need to start the engine with forward engaged. For those with Autoprop and hydraulic gear-box, they leave the throttle lever in neutral position, the shaft brake system doing the job. In both, while sailing and as the engine starts, the Autoprop will spin before forward is engaged. This is not a big deal BUT it is better to drop boat speed (if possible) before engaging forward. This will give a smaller shock to the gear-box and soft coupling.
I'm not sure if this is all clear to everyone, so, feel free for questions...
Olivier On Monday, March 11, 2019, 11:30:23 PM GMT+1, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
Hi Mark, the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk. Regards Danny
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
@Sioned
Hi James,
while there are some anchorages in Greece where weed can make it a bit of a problem to anchor on first attempt, there are usually enough sandy patches among the weed where you can drop your anchor. Most of the time the water is clear enough to spot them easily. And where the water is too murky you don't have to fight weed in my experience. And for the last four years in Greece I had never my anchor slip after it dug in - unless someone pulled it out with his anchor, which will eventually happen in a harbour, as moorings with lazy lines are rare in Greece. Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
marklesparkle59
Gerhard there is no sticker on Sea Hobo, Do I have the same gearbox as you? Can you tell from this photo? Mark Sent from my Samsung device
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Gerhard Mueller
Same sticker here at my Sharki. I guess the bearings of the gearbox are not lubricated enough anymore when shift is in forward position while sailing.
-- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Beaute Olivier
Hello Warrren, on a Sharki with fixed prop, while sailing, you should stop the propeller by engaging reverse. This will reduce noise and packing stuff wear. There will be a "clunk" which could surprise you but don't worry, the clutch shock when you engage forward or reverse with the engine ON is stronger (there is more power from the engine towards the propeller when it is running than from the prop to the engine --through the gear-box--when the engine is OFF). This true for every boat with a fixed prop and mechanic gear-box. For those with Autoprop and mechanic gear-box (mainly SMs), they engage forward in order to stop the prop spinning. They don't necessarily need to start the engine with forward engaged. For those with Autoprop and hydraulic gear-box, they leave the throttle lever in neutral position, the shaft brake system doing the job. In both, while sailing and as the engine starts, the Autoprop will spin before forward is engaged. This is not a big deal BUT it is better to drop boat speed (if possible) before engaging forward. This will give a smaller shock to the gear-box and soft coupling. I'm not sure if this is all clear to everyone, so, feel free for questions... Olivier
On Monday, March 11, 2019, 11:30:23 PM GMT+1, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
Hi Mark, the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk. Regards Danny On 12 March 2019 at 07:58 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos
James Alton
Gary,
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I just went through the photo albums that you updated for us and it is such an improvement over the old system. Because of the organization, I was able to find many useful photos pertaining to my boat and projects. Thank you for all of your efforts in organizing the photos and for your other contributions as well. I badly need to change what may well be the original slider seal on Sueno’s slider hatch so I will definitely be going over in detail the seal you created for the slider out of silicone sheet referred to in your post below. Thanks again! James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos
Gary Silver
Hi all:
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal. I did this about 4 years ago. I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention. I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available). I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own. I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling. It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc. It has held up well for the last 4 years. I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion. The photos are in the album entitled: "Modifications - Companionway Door Seal". I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. Hope this may of be of use to some. Gary S Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico
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Maramu T-track matching
smiles bernard
Hello Amelians
Folk on this forum have been very helpful with advice re how to remove the Maramu Genoa sheet cars. (Best bet seemed to be to undo the stanchion base fwd of the track and push this ‘loose’ stanchion base inboard to allow the passage of the car off the T track. ) I have family coming to stay from Europe in a few weeks so I’m hoping to load their suitcases up with a Genoa sheet cars. The originals on Sea Love are Goiot. Could anyone be kind enough to tell me if the any metric Genoa cars of the right track width will do or are things more complex than that re matching track thickness and profile etc? Many thanks Miles
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
Gary Silver
James:
I have had a Spade anchor on Liahona (Amel SM 2000) for about 8 years; I can't recall the size (weight) I bought but it is roughly the equivalent size of the SS CQG anchor the boat came new with. It fits the bow roller well. I will try and find a picture to post. This Spade sets the first time every time everywhere I have been in the Caribbean. The only time it drug was when I hooked an underwater cable and it slid along the cable. The original CQR anchor that came with the boat was pretty, never rusted etc but it was a nightmare to set in the same places. Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335 Puerto Rico
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
Gary Silver
Colin and Lauren:
I know of several people who have had their chain done by Buzz Parlato of Lighthouse Marine in St. Thomas. Cell 340-334-3117, email lighthouse at islands dot vi. Evidently you specify the chain you want, go bow in to a slip in Crown Bay Marina, at Charlotte Amalie, they come on the dock with the chain, strip your old chain, load the new chain, and haul away your old chain. Those I have heard from say it is seamless and easy. Once I calculated the weight of 80 meters of 10 mm chain and it seems like it was something like 800 lbs. so doing the job myself is something I wasn't looking forward to. I haven't used these folks personally but I think Joe Nance did. Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 Puerto Rico
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Mark, the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk. Regards Danny
On 12 March 2019 at 07:58 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Danny,
The opposite is true on Cream Puff. There is a French sticker by the throttle that says to put the gear in forward when sailing and leave it there. We do not have a shaft break or alternator. We also start the engine (when the boat is moving forward) with it in gear per the sign. This seemed odd to me but Miles from Lady Bug has the same sticker and speaks fluent French.
We are fitted with an AutoProp and for some reason this makes a difference (and of cause the engine on Amel faces the wrong way – not sure if this also effects it). We are unable to stop the rotation of the shaft in reverse. It will still slowly turn. We hear the reassuring clunk in forward and the shaft will not move. I really do not know all the mechanics involved but just follow the sign.
This all obviously varies by vessel, engine, prop etc.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi. The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops. However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi. The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops. However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Ian Park
Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason. Ian
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Apology, I cannot assist with the Maramu specific anchor fit question, but would say we have been very happy with our Rocna 40kg. Now more than half the way around the world, it has only ever dragged once in the Maldives on rock when we stopped briefly for an hour to refuel in Gan and did not put enough chain out, nor pull back on it. If the Rocna 33 fits your bow that is what I would fit. We had one on our last boat (Island Packet 40) and it was perfect On the question of length, I would agree that 100m instead of the standard 80m would be a good idea. We also want to upgrade to 100m or 110m x 10mm chain now before heading over the Pacific. I personally would not go down to 8mm. Does anyone know of a good quality (Well priced!) chain supplier here in the Caribbean?? We are in BVI'S now, and headed to St Martin next before Bonaire and Panama.. Cheers Colin & Lauren SV Island Pearl II Peter Island, BVI'S
On Sat, 9 Mar. 2019, 10:34 James Alton via Groups.Io, <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote: Hello Maramu owners,
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Re: Tunesia
Joerg Esdorn
This is very helpful advice, many thanks! My conclusion is to go to Hammamet/Port Jasmine, rather than Gammarth or Sidi Bou Said.
Joerg
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Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....
Thomas Kleman
Thanks to all for the words of wisdom I'm getting. Because I wasn't that careful with debris, the dust and wood chips combined with the mud already there to clog my anchor locker drain (entering through the permanent grating). While I was able to access the line to clear it out both from the T connection near the shower and the drain fitting inside the locker, getting the mud/other stuff out requires one to be inside the chain locker with some kind of vacuum poked through the grate, if it's really clogged. Which brings me to my question. I'm leaning towards an ingress hatch so I can get inside the chain locker. Just continually blowing the clog free with water/compressed air seems to be kicking the can down the road a bit. Thoughts ? Note- Since I achieved the age of 6, I lost the ability to pass through the bulkhead access door. I'm wondering if part of the reason my previous 5 year old chain became a ball of rust was incomplete drainage from the locker. I can't say I regularly emptied enough chain out of the locker to allow for a visual inspection.
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Greg,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks for your input. I don’t have to order my anchor right away so I will look forward to hearing your report. It seems from my research so far that the Mantus should be good in weed, I hope so too. The areas of the Med. that we have sailed so far (Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia) all had sandy areas that we could anchor in amongst the weed. Do you think that there is more weed in the Med as you go further East? Thanks for letting me know that the Spade is not working in the Med. weed. It does not appear that the Spade will fit the Amel anchor hardware either so I think I will take that option off of the list. We hope to be in Eastern Greece and perhaps Turkey next season, it would be great to hear about some of your travels, perhaps we can chat some via email? Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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