Date   

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

amel46met
 

James
I have 300 feet of 3/8” H.T. Chain. I hand spread the first 100 feet and then pile 200 feet on top of that with the windless no problems with the pyramid although I like hearing it fall over as I retrieve I have tried putting a bulkhead forward and putting 100 feet forward of that but just spreading it seems to work fine for the last 20 years.I do have an old fashion Bruce anchor 50 kg it never drags I like it when people say that is an awfully big anchor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu # 125


On Mar 12, 2019, at 1:10 PM, "amel@..." <amel@...> wrote:

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

smiles bernard
 

That looks like my hurth Mark!
What is the model number ?
It has a ID plate on the top 
All the best
Miles


On 12 Mar 2019, at 05:41, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Gerhard there is no sticker on Sea Hobo,
Do I have the same gearbox as you? Can you tell from this photo?
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device
<20190308_114031_resized.jpg>


Re: Dessalator pump model

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi Bill,

Many thanks for that, and for fgetting me in the group so quickly!

Cheers,
Paul


Re: Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

 

Gary,

This is a perfect way to replace the door seal/squeegee. I am very impressed! I assume the teak piece could also be machined from stainless steel, or aluminum?

It seems to me that there has to be some entrepreneur, somewhere who could make up about 100+ of these and sell them to Amel owners. As the SN, SM and 54 continue to age, and the fact that parts are not always available, finding the best replacements is going to be an increasing challenge. I wish that I could find the guy, with tools available, and the patience to deal with us to do fabricate some of these things. In fact, if we find that guy, we should publish his information here.

Which reminds me, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> has done this for hard-to-get parts such as the SM2k Bow Thruster control PCB and the genoa car adjustable traveller block for SMs (Jib Car Pulley). Mark, I know you are reading.😀

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 12:03 AM James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Gary,

    I just went through the photo albums that you updated for us and it is such an improvement over the old system.    Because of the organization, I was able to find many useful photos pertaining to my boat and projects.  Thank you for all of your efforts in organizing the photos and for your other contributions as well. 

    I badly need to change what may well be the original slider seal on Sueno’s slider hatch so I will definitely be going over in detail the seal you created for the slider out of silicone sheet referred to in your post below.  

Thanks again!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 12:17 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi all:  
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal.  I did this about 4 years ago.  I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention.  I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available).  I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own.  I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling.  It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc.  It has held up well for the last 4 years.  I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion.  The photos are in the album entitled:
"Modifications - Companionway Door Seal".  I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. 

Hope this may of be of use to some. 

Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Michael,

   This is great information and I enjoyed the injection of humour as well!

Two questions:

1.  Is there room in the locker in your opinion to install a small partial bulkhead perhaps at the forward end that would separate and contain the troublesome 20-30m of chain?   I have done this on some other boats that have the chain castle problem.  The idea was to just move the initial portion of the chain pile to a location not under the chain hawse hole.  The solution on other boats worked but of course the first 20-30m of chain needs to be manually  anytime that last bit of chain is put to use.

2.  Do you think that 100m of 8mm grade 80 chain would stack without resorting to the chain rat technique?   If so is there a good reason not to consider this solution?  I am pretty sure that there is at least one SM that is using the 8mm chain to reduce the weight.

Thanks for the great advice.

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 10:43 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

I consider 80m chain the minimum (which is unfortunately also the maximum for our boats unless you have your spouse playing chain rat and guiding the chain inside the locker when it is coming in) for mooring stern to with bow anchor.
If you go for 100m (which in all other aspects would be better) you should also install a radio controlled remote for your windlass, so that you can play chain rat yourself (at least as long there is no other traffic around). If I am alone and have to look out for other traffic, I pull in the chain except for the last 15-20m, hurry down to the chain locker (which I opened before), give the chain pile a kick and hurry back on deck to pull in the remaining chain. This way I can avoid a blocking most of the time. It is a pity that the chain locker is not accessible from deck.

Using less than 80m can be so embarassing if you still have 3m to the quay at the end of the chain ;). I even managed to do that with my full 100m in a wide basin where I misguessed the distance. I observed a guy once doing this mistake thrice in a row.

You normally want to use as much chain as possible in the harbour for a few reasons:
- You have to be absolutely sure that the anchor holds because between your stern and the concrete of the wall are less than 2 m. And some ferries can do a lot of surge.
- Most charter guys use less chain (probably because they don't have more on their boats). So your own anchor is out of the danger zone of their anchors.
- Some harbours have derelict mooring chains on the ground. You need to drop your anchor far beyond it unless you want to make the local diver happy (though there ARE some ways to get your anchor free again without diving).

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Dessalator pump model

 

Paul, 

Welcome to the New Group. If it is original, it is 277 bronze. Cat has rebuild kits.

You may be interested in these videos:
Dec 27, 2010 - Uploaded by TheKleenScene
You will find the best prices and deals from kleen-rite corp for all your car wash need! http://www.kleen-ritecorp ...
Sep 15, 2011 - Uploaded by Equipment Trade Service Co. Inc.
This CAT Pumps Pressure Washer Plunger Pump Repair Video http://www.shopetsonline.com/CAT-PUMP ...
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 10:13 AM Paul Dowd and_Sharon Brown <yafohi@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I think I need a new water pump for my Dessalator 100 Duo. I see it is a CAT but I cannot see anywhere that says which model it is. All I can say is that it has two pistons, and the manual I have is for models
Stainless: 231, 241 271
Nickel, Aluminium, Bronze: 237, 247, 277

Would anyone be able to tell me which model I have, or at how to find out?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98


Dessalator pump model

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi All,

I think I need a new water pump for my Dessalator 100 Duo. I see it is a CAT but I cannot see anywhere that says which model it is. All I can say is that it has two pistons, and the manual I have is for models
Stainless: 231, 241 271
Nickel, Aluminium, Bronze: 237, 247, 277

Would anyone be able to tell me which model I have, or at how to find out?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

I consider 80m chain the minimum (which is unfortunately also the maximum for our boats unless you have your spouse playing chain rat and guiding the chain inside the locker when it is coming in) for mooring stern to with bow anchor.
If you go for 100m (which in all other aspects would be better) you should also install a radio controlled remote for your windlass, so that you can play chain rat yourself (at least as long there is no other traffic around). If I am alone and have to look out for other traffic, I pull in the chain except for the last 15-20m, hurry down to the chain locker (which I opened before), give the chain pile a kick and hurry back on deck to pull in the remaining chain. This way I can avoid a blocking most of the time. It is a pity that the chain locker is not accessible from deck.

Using less than 80m can be so embarassing if you still have 3m to the quay at the end of the chain ;). I even managed to do that with my full 100m in a wide basin where I misguessed the distance. I observed a guy once doing this mistake thrice in a row.

You normally want to use as much chain as possible in the harbour for a few reasons:
- You have to be absolutely sure that the anchor holds because between your stern and the concrete of the wall are less than 2 m. And some ferries can do a lot of surge.
- Most charter guys use less chain (probably because they don't have more on their boats). So your own anchor is out of the danger zone of their anchors.
- Some harbours have derelict mooring chains on the ground. You need to drop your anchor far beyond it unless you want to make the local diver happy (though there ARE some ways to get your anchor free again without diving).

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Colin and Lauren,

   Thanks for your input.  I am hearing nothing but great things about the Rocna and am sure that it would be a big upgrade from my current anchor.  I am still not sure of which anchor to go with.  I like the idea of going with a longer rode but apparently beyond 80m on the Maramu the chain castles are a problem.  I am thinking of looking into a way to locate the last 20-30M into the very bow of the locker which would allow the extra length but require manually reloading the first bit of chain if it was ever used.

   If you make it all of the way to Florida, I might be able to help you with the chain but it sounds like you are headed West.  Fair winds!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 11, 2019, at 2:17 PM, islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

James

Apology, I cannot assist with the Maramu specific anchor fit question, but would say we have been very happy with our Rocna 40kg. Now more than half the way around the world, it has only ever dragged once in the Maldives on rock when we stopped briefly for an hour to refuel in Gan and did not put enough chain out, nor pull back on it.

If the Rocna 33 fits your bow that is what I would fit. We had one on our last boat (Island Packet 40) and it was perfect

On the question of length, I would agree that 100m instead of the standard 80m would be a good idea. We also want to upgrade to 100m or 110m x 10mm chain now before heading over the Pacific. I personally would not go down to 8mm.

Does anyone know of a good quality (Well priced!) chain supplier here in the Caribbean?? We are in BVI'S now, and headed to St Martin next before Bonaire and Panama..

Cheers
Colin & Lauren
SV Island Pearl II
Peter Island, BVI'S




On Sat, 9 Mar. 2019, 10:34 James Alton via Groups.Io, <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Maramu owners,

   I am not at my boat currently so need some help.  Can Maramu owners suggest modern anchors that are known to fit the original Amel anchor rollers on the Maramu?  I would like to upgrade from the original Bugel anchor to something with a bit better holding.  The Mantus,  Spade and the Rocna are of interest to me.    I am concerned about the tendency of the anchor to strike the bow when being stowed and how well the anchor stows in the original Amel hardware.

   I am also planing to increase the chain length to at least 100 meters.  Has anyone switched to high strength (I believe it is grade 80?) 8mm chain to help keep the weight and the chain piles down as compared to the 10mm?  I am not concerned about not being able to regalvanize the chain which I understand can weaken the grade 80.

   Short term cruising will be Croatia and Greece.  Hope to be in the Pacific in 4-5 years and I seem to recall suggestions to consider even more than 100 meters of chain?   

Thanks for any insight and suggestions.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220




Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Michael,

   This is great information, thanks!  I am comfortable with the Med. mooring using the lazy lines but laying the anchor and backing down will be new.  I currently only have 120’ of chain on the boat so I will be ordering new chain with the anchor.  How much chain would you suggest I carry for harbour moorings in Greece?
    We are carrying a chain hook which will hopefully help with crossed lines or snagged anchors and also some kink free floaty line for running a long stern line ashore when needed.  Thanks for all of your helpful suggestions!   If we cross paths, the beer or wine is on me! 

Best,

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 6:27 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

while there are some anchorages in Greece where weed can make it a bit of a problem to anchor on first attempt, there are usually enough sandy patches among the weed where you can drop your anchor. Most of the time the water is clear enough to spot them easily. And where the water is too murky you don't have to fight weed in my experience. And for the last four years in Greece I had never my anchor slip after it dug in - unless someone pulled it out with his anchor, which will eventually happen in a harbour, as moorings with lazy lines are rare in Greece.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Warren Traill
 

Thankyou Olivier. Your explanation is abundantly clear to me and a relief to know that my practise of engaging reverse while sailing has been the right one.

Cheers,

Warren

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, 12 March 2019 4:13 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hello Warrren,

 

on a Sharki with fixed prop, while sailing, you should stop the propeller by engaging reverse. This will reduce noise and packing stuff wear. There will be a "clunk" which could surprise you but don't worry, the clutch shock when you engage forward or reverse with the engine  ON is stronger (there is more power from the engine towards the propeller when it is running  than from the prop to the engine --through the gear-box--when the engine is OFF).

This true for every boat with a fixed prop and mechanic gear-box.

 

For those with Autoprop and mechanic gear-box (mainly SMs), they engage forward in order to stop the prop spinning. They don't necessarily need to start the engine with forward engaged.

For those with Autoprop and hydraulic gear-box, they leave the throttle lever in neutral position, the shaft brake system doing the job.

In both, while sailing and as the engine starts, the Autoprop will spin before forward is engaged. This is not a big deal BUT it is better to drop boat speed (if possible) before engaging forward. This will give a smaller shock to the gear-box and soft coupling.

 

I'm not sure if this is all clear to everyone, so, feel free for questions...

 

Olivier

On Monday, March 11, 2019, 11:30:23 PM GMT+1, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Mark,

the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk.

Regards

Danny

On 12 March 2019 at 07:58 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Danny,

 

The opposite is true on Cream Puff. There is a French sticker by the throttle that says to put the gear in forward when sailing and leave it there. We do not have a shaft break or alternator. We also start the engine (when the boat is moving forward) with it in gear per the sign. This seemed odd to me but Miles from Lady Bug has the same sticker and speaks fluent French.

 

We are fitted with an AutoProp and for some reason this makes a difference (and of cause the engine on Amel faces the wrong way – not sure if this also effects it). We are unable to stop the rotation of the shaft in reverse. It will still slowly turn. We hear the reassuring clunk in forward and the shaft will not move. I really do not know all the mechanics involved but just follow the sign.

 

This all obviously varies by vessel, engine, prop etc.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 2:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hi.

The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops.

However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian

 

 


 


 


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

while there are some anchorages in Greece where weed can make it a bit of a problem to anchor on first attempt, there are usually enough sandy patches among the weed where you can drop your anchor. Most of the time the water is clear enough to spot them easily. And where the water is too murky you don't have to fight weed in my experience. And for the last four years in Greece I had never my anchor slip after it dug in - unless someone pulled it out with his anchor, which will eventually happen in a harbour, as moorings with lazy lines are rare in Greece.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

Gerhard there is no sticker on Sea Hobo,
Do I have the same gearbox as you? Can you tell from this photo?
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Gerhard Mueller
 

Same sticker here at my Sharki. I guess the bearings of the gearbox are not lubricated enough anymore when shift is in forward position while sailing.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Warrren,

on a Sharki with fixed prop, while sailing, you should stop the propeller by engaging reverse. This will reduce noise and packing stuff wear. There will be a "clunk" which could surprise you but don't worry, the clutch shock when you engage forward or reverse with the engine  ON is stronger (there is more power from the engine towards the propeller when it is running  than from the prop to the engine --through the gear-box--when the engine is OFF).
This true for every boat with a fixed prop and mechanic gear-box.

For those with Autoprop and mechanic gear-box (mainly SMs), they engage forward in order to stop the prop spinning. They don't necessarily need to start the engine with forward engaged.
For those with Autoprop and hydraulic gear-box, they leave the throttle lever in neutral position, the shaft brake system doing the job.
In both, while sailing and as the engine starts, the Autoprop will spin before forward is engaged. This is not a big deal BUT it is better to drop boat speed (if possible) before engaging forward. This will give a smaller shock to the gear-box and soft coupling.

I'm not sure if this is all clear to everyone, so, feel free for questions...

Olivier

On Monday, March 11, 2019, 11:30:23 PM GMT+1, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:


Hi Mark,

the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk.

Regards

Danny

On 12 March 2019 at 07:58 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Danny,

 

The opposite is true on Cream Puff. There is a French sticker by the throttle that says to put the gear in forward when sailing and leave it there. We do not have a shaft break or alternator. We also start the engine (when the boat is moving forward) with it in gear per the sign. This seemed odd to me but Miles from Lady Bug has the same sticker and speaks fluent French.

 

We are fitted with an AutoProp and for some reason this makes a difference (and of cause the engine on Amel faces the wrong way – not sure if this also effects it). We are unable to stop the rotation of the shaft in reverse. It will still slowly turn. We hear the reassuring clunk in forward and the shaft will not move. I really do not know all the mechanics involved but just follow the sign.

 

This all obviously varies by vessel, engine, prop etc.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 2:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hi.

The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops.

However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian

 



 


 


Re: Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

James Alton
 

Gary,

    I just went through the photo albums that you updated for us and it is such an improvement over the old system.    Because of the organization, I was able to find many useful photos pertaining to my boat and projects.  Thank you for all of your efforts in organizing the photos and for your other contributions as well. 

    I badly need to change what may well be the original slider seal on Sueno’s slider hatch so I will definitely be going over in detail the seal you created for the slider out of silicone sheet referred to in your post below.  

Thanks again!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 12:17 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi all:  
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal.  I did this about 4 years ago.  I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention.  I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available).  I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own.  I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling.  It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc.  It has held up well for the last 4 years.  I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion.  The photos are in the album entitled:
"Modifications - Companionway Door Seal".  I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. 

Hope this may of be of use to some. 

Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico


Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

Gary Silver
 

Hi all:  
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal.  I did this about 4 years ago.  I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention.  I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available).  I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own.  I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling.  It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc.  It has held up well for the last 4 years.  I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion.  The photos are in the album entitled:
"Modifications - Companionway Door Seal".  I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. 

Hope this may of be of use to some. 

Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico


Maramu T-track matching

smiles bernard
 

Hello Amelians

Folk on this forum have been very helpful with advice re how to remove the Maramu Genoa sheet cars.

(Best bet seemed to be to undo the stanchion base fwd of the track and push this ‘loose’ stanchion base inboard to allow the passage of the car off the T track. )

I have family coming to stay from Europe in a few weeks so I’m hoping to load their suitcases up with a Genoa sheet cars.

The originals on Sea Love are Goiot.

Could anyone be kind enough to tell me if the any metric Genoa cars of the right track width will do or are things more complex than that re matching track thickness and profile etc?

Many thanks
Miles


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Gary Silver
 

James:

I have had a Spade anchor on Liahona (Amel SM 2000) for about 8 years;  I can't recall the size (weight) I bought but it is roughly the equivalent size of the SS CQG anchor the boat came new with.  It fits the bow roller well.  I will try and find a picture to post.  This Spade sets the first time every time everywhere I have been in the Caribbean.  The only time it drug was when I hooked an underwater cable and it slid along the cable. The original CQR anchor that came with the boat was pretty, never rusted etc but it was a nightmare to set in the same places.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico