Date   
Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

yes, I will try out Toms solution. Will need probably some rod to help push the first 20m chain forward in the locker.

As for the chain shackle for the snubber, I am using this one:

https://www.svb24.com/en/chain-gripper-chain-shackle.html

I don't think there will be any chance of it coming loose unexpectedly. I am also using just a standard quality shackle to connect the chain to the anchor. Not a fancy swiveling one. I don't deem those to be necessary and they are a weak point, and you normally cannot check the swivel for corrosion. But opinions differ about this topic.

Using a snubber is always a good idea and I cannot understand the people not using one. Just keep in mind that a snubber has a maximum extension, too. If that is reached in heavy weather you are back to the point where any additional force will reach the anchor unmitigated. But then there is not much else you can do at that point but pray.

I took the 13kg for the 8mm chain from catalog data. I think it might depend on the actual material used.

Michael Konz, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Amel Euros 41

DavidS
 

Hello, I'm new to the forum so i want to appologize if I post in a wrong group.
The question I have is: I am interested in buying an Amel Euros 41, build in 1975, well taking care of for all these years. But I'm curious if there are some specific points that have to be looked after. I have a general idea what to check out but it is a general idea suiting all sailing vessels.

Kind regards,

David

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

Wow kent- timely message for me. I cut a small access port in the bottom of chain locker grating  where mud accumulates and have covered it with starboard I can remove for periodic vacuuming. But now the key issue- how to I get access to chain locker ? A port cut in the bow locker would have to be fairly big. Does this impact structural strength ? How about making the whole starboard floor float on rubber gasket and screw down ? But remaining fiber glass lip would have to be beefed up to allow for attachment. Thumbscrews ? I need a few days in air conditioning to figure this out and noodle on the ideas of other Amelians.

After reading your post and seeing my locker up close and personal, not having access is not an option for me. I need to know I'm not toting around alot of mud and 600 lbs of rusty chain.

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

karkauai
 

Hi Thomas,
I also had the unfortunate experience of my chain getting rusted into a ball.  I managed to get it out with a pneumatic chisel while pulling the end of the chain up with a halyard, but it took about 40 man-hours.  I acquired the nickname Rusty for that project.

A friend’s slight 13 year old farm kid is great with all kinds of tools and heavy equipment. He crawled into the chain locker.  He used a vibrating saw to cut a 4”x4” hole in the false floor and found the area below it completely filled with mud and small particles of rust that he was able to remove with a shopvac.  We screwed an 8”x8” piece of StarBoard to the top of the cut out that keeps it from falling back into the bottom.

I was surprised that the exit hole where water leaves the chain locker was located just below the false floor.  So that space stays full of water all the time.  Not sure why the hole wasn’t at the bottom of the bulkhead at the V of the hull.

 I have since had to replace the floors of the bow lockers (there are a couple of threads here about this).  I used a very strong light weight sandwich board material (sorry, don’t remember what it’s called).  I cut access ports in the new floors and made them water-tight (the frames are screwed down on the remaining sandwich board with a rubber gasket, so access isn’t easy, but it is there if you need it. 

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Mar 11, 2019, at 12:36 PM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Thanks to all for the words of wisdom I'm getting. Because I wasn't that careful with debris, the dust and wood chips combined with the mud already there to clog my anchor locker drain (entering through the permanent grating). While I was able to access the line to clear it out both from the T connection near the shower and the drain fitting inside the locker, getting the mud/other stuff out requires one to be inside the chain locker with some kind of vacuum poked through the grate, if it's really clogged. Which brings me to my question. I'm leaning towards an ingress hatch so I can get inside the chain locker. Just continually blowing the clog free with water/compressed air seems to be kicking the can down the road a bit. Thoughts ? Note- Since I achieved the age of 6, I lost the ability to pass through the bulkhead access door. I'm wondering if part of the reason my previous 5 year old chain became a ball of rust was incomplete drainage from the locker. I can't say I regularly emptied enough chain out of the locker to allow for a visual inspection. 

Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Thomas Kleman
 

Thanks to Mark for agreeing to post some pics for me. Today I installed my epoxy resin hawse pipe header/fillet under the windlass. The throat fits in my 4 inch PVC pipe, and it has a wide fillet for the back starboard windlass bolt, which now needs to be longer due to the 10 mm height of the fillet. It's held by 7 screws and half a tube of 5200, as well as the windlass bolt. The residual glassing from the original Amel hawse pipe made it difficult to get the mounting site perfectly flat; the windlass wires complicate getting a grinder in there. Eventually a wood chisel did the trick.

Since my crafter side is activated now, I'm going to make an epoxy resin sacrificial insert for the pcv pipe mounted where it exits the floor to help it last a bit longer. 

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Michael,

   Those are some interesting solutions that I have never heard of.  Apparently a lot of thought has gone into how to deal with chain castles.  I really appreciate your input on this.  Did you read Toms simple solution in the next post that has worked for 20 years for him?  I should have thought of that but it never occurred to me.

   Yes, I understand what you are saying about how having more weight in the rode will provide more catenary at the same load, all true.  Of course in higher winds even heavy chain will as you say begin to act like a rod so at that point having a really good snubber that won’t detach when the all chain rode is wanting to act like a rod is really important.  That is another subject that I have been studying since I have had so many chain hooks pop off when conditions got rough and they were really needed.  I have been tying my snubber to the chain in stronger conditions since the caribiner type hook that came with the boat does not look like it is strong enough for strong conditions but at least it never pops off the chain.  The icicle hitch seems to be a little better than a rolling hitch to make this connection but I still worry about the line working free.  I am open to suggestions. There is a lot to this anchoring business. (grin)

   Assuming a proper snubber handles the surge loads, would the same weight  of rode in 8mm or in 10mm provide the best holding?  I think that if this was the only issue that the 8mm would be the clear winner due to the longer scope but of course it is never this simple.  What options are there for instance to attach line to the 8mm that would be as strong as the grade 80 chain?  And what about the strength of the shackle to the anchor at the other end?  Those concerns bring me back to probably using the 3/8” chain.  And of course in a tight anchorage with limited swinging room so that scope is limited, the heavier rode would be better I think.  

   You might check the math on the weight of the 10m of 8mm chain, unless I have made an error (quite possible) I think it is a bit over 16KG so about a 7 KG difference per 10m.  

    I have learned a lot from this discussion, thanks!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220


   

On Mar 12, 2019, at 2:29 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

James
I have 300 feet of 3/8” H.T. Chain. I hand spread the first 100 feet and then pile 200 feet on top of that with the windless no problems with the pyramid although I like hearing it fall over as I retrieve I have tried putting a bulkhead forward and putting 100 feet forward of that but just spreading it seems to work fine for the last 20 years.I do have an old fashion Bruce anchor 50 kg it never drags I like it when people say that is an awfully big anchor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu # 125


On Mar 12, 2019, at 1:10 PM, "amel@..." <amel@...> wrote:

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello James,

The link is to a well known UK metallurgist who also lives on his sailboat, usually in GR.

I think you’ll like what you read…


Additionally, if you don’t mind the ticket price, think of a ULTRA anchor.  Their swivel is perfect for avoiding contact with the bow.


Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, Opua, New Zealand.



On 10 Mar 2019, at 03:34, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Hello Maramu owners,

  I am not at my boat currently so need some help.  Can Maramu owners suggest modern anchors that are known to fit the original Amel anchor rollers on the Maramu?  I would like to upgrade from the original Bugel anchor to something with a bit better holding.  The Mantus,  Spade and the Rocna are of interest to me.    I am concerned about the tendency of the anchor to strike the bow when being stowed and how well the anchor stows in the original Amel hardware.

  I am also planing to increase the chain length to at least 100 meters.  Has anyone switched to high strength (I believe it is grade 80?) 8mm chain to help keep the weight and the chain piles down as compared to the 10mm?  I am not concerned about not being able to regalvanize the chain which I understand can weaken the grade 80.

  Short term cruising will be Croatia and Greece.  Hope to be in the Pacific in 4-5 years and I seem to recall suggestions to consider even more than 100 meters of chain?   

Thanks for any insight and suggestions.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220



Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

Thanks for that Miles. The engine is a Perkins 4108 I will check the gear box  n
ext visit. Am I right that the starboard alternator is also called the engine alternator and the port is aka domestic?
We have a mixture of original and new electrical equipment and I am keen for any comments on the photos. I dont really understand what these gauges and the Sterling box are telling me or doing. The red light on the main board never goes out, what does that indicate? Do all Sharkis have a similar system?
Mark




Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 12/03/2019 16:43 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

That looks like my hurth Mark!
What is the model number ?
It has a ID plate on the top 
All the best
Miles


On 12 Mar 2019, at 05:41, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Gerhard there is no sticker on Sea Hobo,
Do I have the same gearbox as you? Can you tell from this photo?
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device
<20190308_114031_resized.jpg>

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Tom,

   I really like your solution.  It sounds pretty foolproof, just a bit of hands on work if you are using more than 200’ of your chain!  Thanks for the idea, I like this much better than adding the bulkhead.  I am also still considering the 8mm chain idea.  I feel like weight put into the anchor adds more holding power than putting it into the chain.    I am considering both the 85 lbs and the 105 pound Mantus.   The 105lb. Mantus is so wide that I am a little concerned that I might loose a degree or two on the wind from the windage!  (grin)  Glad to hear that your Bruce is treating you so well.  Thanks for all of the thoughtful and helpful input.

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 2:29 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

James
I have 300 feet of 3/8” H.T. Chain. I hand spread the first 100 feet and then pile 200 feet on top of that with the windless no problems with the pyramid although I like hearing it fall over as I retrieve I have tried putting a bulkhead forward and putting 100 feet forward of that but just spreading it seems to work fine for the last 20 years.I do have an old fashion Bruce anchor 50 kg it never drags I like it when people say that is an awfully big anchor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu # 125


On Mar 12, 2019, at 1:10 PM, "amel@..." <amel@...> wrote:

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Gerhard Mueller
 

Mark

your picture looks like the same gearbox as I have. I will dive tomorrow into the engine room to check the type of the Hurth gearbox.
The sticker was in french and english language and I renewed it now in german language because it was getting bad after 35 years.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

amel46met
 

James
I have 300 feet of 3/8” H.T. Chain. I hand spread the first 100 feet and then pile 200 feet on top of that with the windless no problems with the pyramid although I like hearing it fall over as I retrieve I have tried putting a bulkhead forward and putting 100 feet forward of that but just spreading it seems to work fine for the last 20 years.I do have an old fashion Bruce anchor 50 kg it never drags I like it when people say that is an awfully big anchor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
1983 Maramu # 125


On Mar 12, 2019, at 1:10 PM, "amel@..." <amel@...> wrote:

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea.

There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like:
https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html
and
https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod
So far I didn't try either of it.

Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat:

As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water.

10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably.
This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference.

I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences.

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Sharki shaft alternator

smiles bernard
 

That looks like my hurth Mark!
What is the model number ?
It has a ID plate on the top 
All the best
Miles


On 12 Mar 2019, at 05:41, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Gerhard there is no sticker on Sea Hobo,
Do I have the same gearbox as you? Can you tell from this photo?
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device
<20190308_114031_resized.jpg>

Re: Dessalator pump model

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi Bill,

Many thanks for that, and for fgetting me in the group so quickly!

Cheers,
Paul

Re: Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

 

Gary,

This is a perfect way to replace the door seal/squeegee. I am very impressed! I assume the teak piece could also be machined from stainless steel, or aluminum?

It seems to me that there has to be some entrepreneur, somewhere who could make up about 100+ of these and sell them to Amel owners. As the SN, SM and 54 continue to age, and the fact that parts are not always available, finding the best replacements is going to be an increasing challenge. I wish that I could find the guy, with tools available, and the patience to deal with us to do fabricate some of these things. In fact, if we find that guy, we should publish his information here.

Which reminds me, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> has done this for hard-to-get parts such as the SM2k Bow Thruster control PCB and the genoa car adjustable traveller block for SMs (Jib Car Pulley). Mark, I know you are reading.😀

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 12:03 AM James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Gary,

    I just went through the photo albums that you updated for us and it is such an improvement over the old system.    Because of the organization, I was able to find many useful photos pertaining to my boat and projects.  Thank you for all of your efforts in organizing the photos and for your other contributions as well. 

    I badly need to change what may well be the original slider seal on Sueno’s slider hatch so I will definitely be going over in detail the seal you created for the slider out of silicone sheet referred to in your post below.  

Thanks again!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 12:17 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi all:  
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal.  I did this about 4 years ago.  I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention.  I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available).  I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own.  I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling.  It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc.  It has held up well for the last 4 years.  I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion.  The photos are in the album entitled:
"Modifications - Companionway Door Seal".  I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. 

Hope this may of be of use to some. 

Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Michael,

   This is great information and I enjoyed the injection of humour as well!

Two questions:

1.  Is there room in the locker in your opinion to install a small partial bulkhead perhaps at the forward end that would separate and contain the troublesome 20-30m of chain?   I have done this on some other boats that have the chain castle problem.  The idea was to just move the initial portion of the chain pile to a location not under the chain hawse hole.  The solution on other boats worked but of course the first 20-30m of chain needs to be manually  anytime that last bit of chain is put to use.

2.  Do you think that 100m of 8mm grade 80 chain would stack without resorting to the chain rat technique?   If so is there a good reason not to consider this solution?  I am pretty sure that there is at least one SM that is using the 8mm chain to reduce the weight.

Thanks for the great advice.

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Mar 12, 2019, at 10:43 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

I consider 80m chain the minimum (which is unfortunately also the maximum for our boats unless you have your spouse playing chain rat and guiding the chain inside the locker when it is coming in) for mooring stern to with bow anchor.
If you go for 100m (which in all other aspects would be better) you should also install a radio controlled remote for your windlass, so that you can play chain rat yourself (at least as long there is no other traffic around). If I am alone and have to look out for other traffic, I pull in the chain except for the last 15-20m, hurry down to the chain locker (which I opened before), give the chain pile a kick and hurry back on deck to pull in the remaining chain. This way I can avoid a blocking most of the time. It is a pity that the chain locker is not accessible from deck.

Using less than 80m can be so embarassing if you still have 3m to the quay at the end of the chain ;). I even managed to do that with my full 100m in a wide basin where I misguessed the distance. I observed a guy once doing this mistake thrice in a row.

You normally want to use as much chain as possible in the harbour for a few reasons:
- You have to be absolutely sure that the anchor holds because between your stern and the concrete of the wall are less than 2 m. And some ferries can do a lot of surge.
- Most charter guys use less chain (probably because they don't have more on their boats). So your own anchor is out of the danger zone of their anchors.
- Some harbours have derelict mooring chains on the ground. You need to drop your anchor far beyond it unless you want to make the local diver happy (though there ARE some ways to get your anchor free again without diving).

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Dessalator pump model

 

Paul, 

Welcome to the New Group. If it is original, it is 277 bronze. Cat has rebuild kits.

You may be interested in these videos:
Dec 27, 2010 - Uploaded by TheKleenScene
You will find the best prices and deals from kleen-rite corp for all your car wash need! http://www.kleen-ritecorp ...
Sep 15, 2011 - Uploaded by Equipment Trade Service Co. Inc.
This CAT Pumps Pressure Washer Plunger Pump Repair Video http://www.shopetsonline.com/CAT-PUMP ...
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Mar 12, 2019 at 10:13 AM Paul Dowd and_Sharon Brown <yafohi@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I think I need a new water pump for my Dessalator 100 Duo. I see it is a CAT but I cannot see anywhere that says which model it is. All I can say is that it has two pistons, and the manual I have is for models
Stainless: 231, 241 271
Nickel, Aluminium, Bronze: 237, 247, 277

Would anyone be able to tell me which model I have, or at how to find out?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98

Dessalator pump model

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi All,

I think I need a new water pump for my Dessalator 100 Duo. I see it is a CAT but I cannot see anywhere that says which model it is. All I can say is that it has two pistons, and the manual I have is for models
Stainless: 231, 241 271
Nickel, Aluminium, Bronze: 237, 247, 277

Would anyone be able to tell me which model I have, or at how to find out?

Cheers,
Paul
Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

@Sioned
 

Hi James,

I consider 80m chain the minimum (which is unfortunately also the maximum for our boats unless you have your spouse playing chain rat and guiding the chain inside the locker when it is coming in) for mooring stern to with bow anchor.
If you go for 100m (which in all other aspects would be better) you should also install a radio controlled remote for your windlass, so that you can play chain rat yourself (at least as long there is no other traffic around). If I am alone and have to look out for other traffic, I pull in the chain except for the last 15-20m, hurry down to the chain locker (which I opened before), give the chain pile a kick and hurry back on deck to pull in the remaining chain. This way I can avoid a blocking most of the time. It is a pity that the chain locker is not accessible from deck.

Using less than 80m can be so embarassing if you still have 3m to the quay at the end of the chain ;). I even managed to do that with my full 100m in a wide basin where I misguessed the distance. I observed a guy once doing this mistake thrice in a row.

You normally want to use as much chain as possible in the harbour for a few reasons:
- You have to be absolutely sure that the anchor holds because between your stern and the concrete of the wall are less than 2 m. And some ferries can do a lot of surge.
- Most charter guys use less chain (probably because they don't have more on their boats). So your own anchor is out of the danger zone of their anchors.
- Some harbours have derelict mooring chains on the ground. You need to drop your anchor far beyond it unless you want to make the local diver happy (though there ARE some ways to get your anchor free again without diving).

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Colin and Lauren,

   Thanks for your input.  I am hearing nothing but great things about the Rocna and am sure that it would be a big upgrade from my current anchor.  I am still not sure of which anchor to go with.  I like the idea of going with a longer rode but apparently beyond 80m on the Maramu the chain castles are a problem.  I am thinking of looking into a way to locate the last 20-30M into the very bow of the locker which would allow the extra length but require manually reloading the first bit of chain if it was ever used.

   If you make it all of the way to Florida, I might be able to help you with the chain but it sounds like you are headed West.  Fair winds!

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 11, 2019, at 2:17 PM, islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

James

Apology, I cannot assist with the Maramu specific anchor fit question, but would say we have been very happy with our Rocna 40kg. Now more than half the way around the world, it has only ever dragged once in the Maldives on rock when we stopped briefly for an hour to refuel in Gan and did not put enough chain out, nor pull back on it.

If the Rocna 33 fits your bow that is what I would fit. We had one on our last boat (Island Packet 40) and it was perfect

On the question of length, I would agree that 100m instead of the standard 80m would be a good idea. We also want to upgrade to 100m or 110m x 10mm chain now before heading over the Pacific. I personally would not go down to 8mm.

Does anyone know of a good quality (Well priced!) chain supplier here in the Caribbean?? We are in BVI'S now, and headed to St Martin next before Bonaire and Panama..

Cheers
Colin & Lauren
SV Island Pearl II
Peter Island, BVI'S




On Sat, 9 Mar. 2019, 10:34 James Alton via Groups.Io, <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Maramu owners,

   I am not at my boat currently so need some help.  Can Maramu owners suggest modern anchors that are known to fit the original Amel anchor rollers on the Maramu?  I would like to upgrade from the original Bugel anchor to something with a bit better holding.  The Mantus,  Spade and the Rocna are of interest to me.    I am concerned about the tendency of the anchor to strike the bow when being stowed and how well the anchor stows in the original Amel hardware.

   I am also planing to increase the chain length to at least 100 meters.  Has anyone switched to high strength (I believe it is grade 80?) 8mm chain to help keep the weight and the chain piles down as compared to the 10mm?  I am not concerned about not being able to regalvanize the chain which I understand can weaken the grade 80.

   Short term cruising will be Croatia and Greece.  Hope to be in the Pacific in 4-5 years and I seem to recall suggestions to consider even more than 100 meters of chain?   

Thanks for any insight and suggestions.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220