Date   

UPDATE: Amel Eastern Caribbean Rally Rendezvous Location: Martinique

 

I have some good news for those attending the Amel Rally in Martinique.

la Marina du Marin has offered the following to anyone attending the Rally:
la Marina du Marin is offering a berth package at 170€ per boat for 6 days :
Berth from Sunday 7th April PM to Friday 12th April PM
   Electricity included
   Wifi 40Go (1 ticket of 40Go per boat)
   Water is not included. The price water is 9€ per cubic meter.
To take advantage of this offer, you must reserve with the marina before 22 March. Email : contact"at"marina-martinique.fr Phone: +596 596 74 83 83

Sponsors Caraibe Marin and Caribbean Yacht Sales are offering you a dinner and drinks on 10 April:
Wednesday 10 April - 1930 dinner at Mango Bay with a drawing for a haulout at Carenantilies Yard. Dinner sponsored by Caraibe Marine, Wine or Beer by Caribbean Yacht Sales.

Saturday 13 April - St. Anne anchorage pot luck lunch/dinner

Sponsor Frangipani Hotel is offering welcome drinks at Bequia:
Tuesday April 23rd Bequia - Welcome drinks at the Frangipani Hotel (time to be announced)

All of the above information can be view on the Amel Rally Web Page Here.

There is still time and space for a few more boats. Contact me soon brouse"at"gmail.com.

Bill



Re: Solar Panel Arches

ngtnewington Newington
 

Mine is by TechNick in Grenada
No wobbles
No extra bracing required
Weight unknown
Cost  US$7000

Nick
SY Amelia Aml 54 -019
One more picture attached from side on

On 15 Mar 2019, at 17:04, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:

I used thickwall stainless tubing with lateral supports at the bottom. 400 lb dink and engine and no wobble in any direction. I worked on the solar from inside the dink and I weigh 200 lbs...


On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 08:29 PM, Jose Venegas wrote:

I am in the process of ordering an arch for Ipanema.  After personally seeing the aluminum arch made by Atlantic Towers, from Lulu and Creamy Puff I was very impressed with the quality,  how light they were, and more importantly by the very affordable price.   However,  both owners (Marc and Mark)  mentioned that the arches were somewhat wobbly, but that was corrected to their satisfaction by adding cables or an extra-strut in a corner.  Although I have seen some very nice arches made to order, their cost , I think, is typically 3 to 4 times that of an Atlantic Tower and they seem to be much heavier.
My questions are for those who have installed arches:
0) if they were from Atlantic Towers, were they wobbly?
For this who installed stainless arches: 
1) do you have an idea of their weight? 
2) how wobbly are they when underway both with and without dink?, 
3) did you have to add extra struts or cables to make them stiffer?
4) What was the cost of manufacture and installation?
5) Can you provide a pix of your system?

Greatly appreciate your feedback
Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278
Still freezing in Boston Harbor but hopefully not for too long.

 <20181230_114342.jpg>


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

Courtney Gorman
 

One thing not to do is to try and cover it up with either black duct tape or black gorilla tape this is what was done in my boat before I bought it to make it look nice however the weight of the tape and the fact that much of it is applied to thin blackFilm on the soundproofing causes it to fall off in big chunks and make a big mess I think the best idea is to remove it all has been stated before with the vacuum cleaner and then possibly there’s some type of material we could then paint or seal it with maybe something on the lines of rhino liner

On Mar 15, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

The black film deteriorates much faster in the tropics. Mine is almost completely gone but that is because I used a vacuum cleaner to get it off. I hated to be covered in black flakes everytime I entered the engine bay.

I’m thinking about using some dinghy-paint to redcoat the foam, using a paint roller. Let me know what you think.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Solar Panel Arches

Arlo
 
Edited

I used thickwall stainless tubing with lateral supports at the bottom. 400 lb dink and engine and no wobble in any direction. I worked on the solar from inside the dink and I weigh 200 lbs... I uploaded some pics of the arch in the album section - Do a search on the word Seaduction and it will show up.



 


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno,

I would be interested to know how you get on with the paint. When you say dinghy paint. What paint exactly?
Also in your other post you said you bought membranes for the water maker for 160 euro. Could you send a link for them. My membranes are fine at the moment but at that price it might be worth changing them anyway.

Nick

Amelia A54-019

On 15 Mar 2019, at 16:00, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

The black film deteriorates much faster in the tropics. Mine is almost completely gone but that is because I used a vacuum cleaner to get it off. I hated to be covered in black flakes everytime I entered the engine bay.

I’m thinking about using some dinghy-paint to redcoat the foam, using a paint roller. Let me know what you think.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Solar Panel Arches

Jose Venegas
 

Pat and Ian:
Thank you both for your input reassuring that everyone that has installed the Atlantic arch seems to be happy with it.  Also from what I hear, everyone has added some lateral support of the arch, whether or not you are carrying the dink. 

I don't plan to carry the dink on the arch during passages but believe that even without it, the greater its stiffness the better it will be in the case on faces very bad weather along the way.  

Perhaps when we meet along the way we can test if, and by how much, the lateral stiffness is increased by the prestressing the arch pulling the legs apart compared with that bringing them closer. 
Thanks for everyone's comments
Jose
SV IPANEMA SM178
Boston 


Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

eric freedman
 

James,

Do you have an Autoprop?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 12:38 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Earth bonding and watermaker

 

Bill,

 

   Thanks, I will order a 30mm to take with me.  If this doesn’t fit I will post an update on the correct size.

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #200

 

On Mar 15, 2019, at 9:03 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

 

I am guessing it is the same size as the SN, SM, & 54 which is 30mm.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 7:47 AM James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

To All,

 

   Can anyone tell me the socket size for the nut holding the copper strap on the keel bolt in the sump on a 1987 Maramu?  I need to replace the copper bonding strap on my boat and would like to have the tools on hand for the job when we arrive at the boat.  

 

    If replacing any of the original Amel bonding wire, is there any downside to using tinned wire?  The tinned wire by Ancor that I am familiar with does have some pretty fine wires that might be easily damaged by hose clamps so perhaps it would be best to solder those areas.  Any thoughts? 

 

Thanks,

 

James

 

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 14, 2019, at 11:05 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

You are absolutely correct.

Additionally , if you want to be totally paranoid, tinning the bonding wires at the connections will greatly increase the life of the connection. It will also prevent water from wicking down the wire. I have checked all my connections back to the rudder and they are 100 %.  I think I will take my own advice and tin a lot of the bonding. As you know Kimberlite 1s 16 years old with original wiring and I have only lost the bonding strap to the bilge connection.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 1:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Earth bonding and watermaker

 

Nick, 

 

I think that most of your questions were directed to me and I already stated that I am not an electrical engineer. Maybe some should be directed to SAV at Amel.

 

I will answer from my experience. 

  • The connections between the yellow/green bonding wire and devices will get corroded even if the wire is not soldered.
  • The resistance between the propellor and the anode should be zero or almost zero
  • I believe that the connections should be clean and free of paint and corrosion. 
  • I believe that you should check on each 2-year haulout the resistance between the rudder anodes and the propellor. This check will verify, engine, transmission, and C-Drive.
  • I think the Amel Bonding System is more than adequate. Keep in mind that there are many builders that bond nothing! Amel bonds most water connections, even when it is saltwater that is the most common culprit.
  • Some of the connections are more important than others, but at least one owner experienced significant C-Drive damage and the propellor is vulnerable if the bonding connection to the C-Drive fails
  • If you suspect something is going on, connect a wire to the rudder post quadrant and test resistance between it and the C-Drive. You are looking for good continuity and almost zero resistance.
  • Once you have verified engine, transmission & C-Drive, checking resistance between the C-Drive and various other bonding connections should ensure that the various other bonding connections are adequate, if the resistance is near zero.
  • On SN, SM, & 54, visually inspect the bonding strap inside the grey water bilge to ensure that the copper strap is OK beginning at the stainless steel nut at the bottom up to the yellow/green wire(s) junction at the top. You will have to pump 100% of the water out using a wet vac or similar. The most common place for a break is within about 3" of the stainless steel nut and even 1/2" of water will hide a break. If it is broken, replace it because this protects your cast iron ballast from electrolysis. Use 1/8" X 2" copper bar...don't use stainless steel for many reasons.

<image001.png>

 

I hope that this helps.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:58 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.

 

Good bonding connections????

 

How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.

 

Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?

 

Kind regards

 

Nick 

 

 

S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54

On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

 

Arno,

 

Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 

 

I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):

 

Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.

 

EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.

 

EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.

 

I hope this explanation helps. 

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

James Alton
 

Bill,

   Thanks, I will order a 30mm to take with me.  If this doesn’t fit I will post an update on the correct size.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #200

On Mar 15, 2019, at 9:03 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

I am guessing it is the same size as the SN, SM, & 54 which is 30mm.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 7:47 AM James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
To All,

   Can anyone tell me the socket size for the nut holding the copper strap on the keel bolt in the sump on a 1987 Maramu?  I need to replace the copper bonding strap on my boat and would like to have the tools on hand for the job when we arrive at the boat.  

    If replacing any of the original Amel bonding wire, is there any downside to using tinned wire?  The tinned wire by Ancor that I am familiar with does have some pretty fine wires that might be easily damaged by hose clamps so perhaps it would be best to solder those areas.  Any thoughts? 

Thanks,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 14, 2019, at 11:05 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,
You are absolutely correct.
Additionally , if you want to be totally paranoid, tinning the bonding wires at the connections will greatly increase the life of the connection. It will also prevent water from wicking down the wire. I have checked all my connections back to the rudder and they are 100 %.  I think I will take my own advice and tin a lot of the bonding. As you know Kimberlite 1s 16 years old with original wiring and I have only lost the bonding strap to the bilge connection.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 1:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Earth bonding and watermaker
 
Nick, 
 
I think that most of your questions were directed to me and I already stated that I am not an electrical engineer. Maybe some should be directed to SAV at Amel.
 
I will answer from my experience. 
  • The connections between the yellow/green bonding wire and devices will get corroded even if the wire is not soldered.
  • The resistance between the propellor and the anode should be zero or almost zero
  • I believe that the connections should be clean and free of paint and corrosion. 
  • I believe that you should check on each 2-year haulout the resistance between the rudder anodes and the propellor. This check will verify, engine, transmission, and C-Drive.
  • I think the Amel Bonding System is more than adequate. Keep in mind that there are many builders that bond nothing! Amel bonds most water connections, even when it is saltwater that is the most common culprit.
  • Some of the connections are more important than others, but at least one owner experienced significant C-Drive damage and the propellor is vulnerable if the bonding connection to the C-Drive fails
  • If you suspect something is going on, connect a wire to the rudder post quadrant and test resistance between it and the C-Drive. You are looking for good continuity and almost zero resistance.
  • Once you have verified engine, transmission & C-Drive, checking resistance between the C-Drive and various other bonding connections should ensure that the various other bonding connections are adequate, if the resistance is near zero.
  • On SN, SM, & 54, visually inspect the bonding strap inside the grey water bilge to ensure that the copper strap is OK beginning at the stainless steel nut at the bottom up to the yellow/green wire(s) junction at the top. You will have to pump 100% of the water out using a wet vac or similar. The most common place for a break is within about 3" of the stainless steel nut and even 1/2" of water will hide a break. If it is broken, replace it because this protects your cast iron ballast from electrolysis. Use 1/8" X 2" copper bar...don't use stainless steel for many reasons.
<image001.png>
 
I hope that this helps.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:58 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
 
I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.
 
Good bonding connections????
 
How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.
 
Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?
 
Kind regards
 
Nick 
 
 
S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54
On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
 
Arno,
 
Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 
 
I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):
 
Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.
 
EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.
 
EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.
 
I hope this explanation helps. 
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
 
 
 






Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

Arno Luijten
 

The black film deteriorates much faster in the tropics. Mine is almost completely gone but that is because I used a vacuum cleaner to get it off. I hated to be covered in black flakes everytime I entered the engine bay.

I’m thinking about using some dinghy-paint to redcoat the foam, using a paint roller. Let me know what you think.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Bill---

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

The wear was at the far end of one rack. I have a s3g autopilot.

I have attached a LeRoy Somers gearbox replacement kit I received from them some time ago.

Also some genoa furling motor spares from Amel.

Also for your book/Website.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2019 9:27 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bill---

 

Eric,

 

I wonder if the wear on the rack is at the same spot where the Raymarine autopilot switches back and forth between port and stbd in light conditions. The older 400G autopilot had an abrupt switch from port to stbd. This was switching "smoothed out" in the software with the Raymarine 3G and later models. How long did you have the Raymarine 400G autopilot computer?

 

Regarding the Rally, I have changed you from Possible to No. I do not yet have the boats stopping in St. Martin, but when I get them, I will be sure to let you know.

 

Thanks for those photos...I did not have any of a failed rack.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 10:15 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Unfortunately we will not be able to join the rally.

Is anyone going to be in St Marten 3/26-April2?

 

Also, FYI and your book and the new website , I have attached a few photos of my steering rack.

When I was in Martinique, I asked Amel to check my steering. They disconnected the cables at the quadrant and the wheel turned smoothly. They said everything was 100 %.

 

However when sailing up to St Maarten, the steering was under load, there was the same  clicking noise that became louder. When I got on island I took the racks and pinion apart and this is what I found. Fortunately , I had a new rack to change out the damaged one. I do not know what caused the problem as the steering pinion was like new.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 10:43 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel Martinique Rally Update...ya'll come

 

Kent and Iris,

 

As it turns out almost nothing has changed...someone else was just added to the Rally, so the count remains the same.

 

I said almost nothing because I am sure that you and Iris will be missed by everyone.

 

The updated web page can be viewed here: Amel Caribbean Rally

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 10:56 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill and all Caribbean Rally Amelians.

We are sorry to tell you that we have to go back home before the Rally and will not be able to attend.  We were really looking forward to meeting you all and seeing your beautiful Amels.

Alas, perhaps another time.

Bill, will our pulling out at the last minute like this cost anyone anything?  If so, we’d like to reimburse for what ever inconvenience it causes.

Regretfully,
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243



Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Jean-Pierre,

The funny thing is that I had corrosion going one everywhere but NOT on the membrane unit itself. It seems you had a different cause than I have. My bet for now is on the weeping endcaps of the high pressure pump and T-joint on the pre-filter. But it’s good to hear you now have no corrosion problems anymore.

By the way; don’t take Lagoon as any form of reference. Their only standard is (low) price. I do agree the spare parts of Dessalator are silly, but most parts are available elsewhere as well. I bought new (identical) membranes for approx 160 Euro each in the Netherlands.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Martin,

I have the same issue on my 54. I have found that by using a vacuum cleaner I can suck off the film leaving the bare foam behind. It works pretty well and looks fine afterwards. The foam insulation itself is still well attached to the bulkheads.
Nick

Amelia Aml 54 019

On 15 Mar 2019, at 13:45, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Martin,

There is probably not an easy solution to the problem with 54 sound insulation. When Amel started producing the 54, they decided to change material from the charcoal colored un-coated egg-crate-cut foam used in the Super Maramu to this new material. This new material used in the 54 looked great when new, but unfortunately, the nice looking black film coating on the foam deteriorates with time. I am not sure what causes the deterioration, but obviously it was the wrong choice.

I asked Amel SAV about this issue for my 54 clients. I was told, "
The black film of the insulation foam is a cosmetic finishing and protect the insulation foam from degradation. When this film or foam starts to peel off there is no other choice that to replace the section affected or to reglue on it an another thin foam sheet . Depending the place this operation is not easy to perform as the foam is fitted prior any equipment is installed in engine room. The foam is glued originally with some neoprene (glue)."

What Amel is saying that you have to remove all of the equipment in the engine room to do a replacement of the insulation, and even then, it is difficult for the untrained person. Although it is not a perfect solution, peeling off the film  from the foam may be the best thing you can do without removing almost all of the equipment.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 7:45 AM Martin Bevan <Martin.bevanhome@...> wrote:
The black covering on the engine room sound proofing on my 54 has peeled off in a number of patches. Has anyone experience of successfully repairing this without replacing the complete sound proofing?  

I think I remember seeing something on this years ago but cannot find it in the group. 




Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

 

Martin,

There is probably not an easy solution to the problem with 54 sound insulation. When Amel started producing the 54, they decided to change material from the charcoal colored un-coated egg-crate-cut foam used in the Super Maramu to this new material. This new material used in the 54 looked great when new, but unfortunately, the nice looking black film coating on the foam deteriorates with time. I am not sure what causes the deterioration, but obviously it was the wrong choice.

I asked Amel SAV about this issue for my 54 clients. I was told, "
The black film of the insulation foam is a cosmetic finishing and protect the insulation foam from degradation. When this film or foam starts to peel off there is no other choice that to replace the section affected or to reglue on it an another thin foam sheet . Depending the place this operation is not easy to perform as the foam is fitted prior any equipment is installed in engine room. The foam is glued originally with some neoprene (glue)."

What Amel is saying that you have to remove all of the equipment in the engine room to do a replacement of the insulation, and even then, it is difficult for the untrained person. Although it is not a perfect solution, peeling off the film  from the foam may be the best thing you can do without removing almost all of the equipment.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 7:45 AM Martin Bevan <Martin.bevanhome@...> wrote:
The black covering on the engine room sound proofing on my 54 has peeled off in a number of patches. Has anyone experience of successfully repairing this without replacing the complete sound proofing?  

I think I remember seeing something on this years ago but cannot find it in the group. 


Re: Bill---

 

Eric,

I wonder if the wear on the rack is at the same spot where the Raymarine autopilot switches back and forth between port and stbd in light conditions. The older 400G autopilot had an abrupt switch from port to stbd. This was switching "smoothed out" in the software with the Raymarine 3G and later models. How long did you have the Raymarine 400G autopilot computer?

Regarding the Rally, I have changed you from Possible to No. I do not yet have the boats stopping in St. Martin, but when I get them, I will be sure to let you know.

Thanks for those photos...I did not have any of a failed rack.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 10:15 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Unfortunately we will not be able to join the rally.

Is anyone going to be in St Marten 3/26-April2?

 

Also, FYI and your book and the new website , I have attached a few photos of my steering rack.

When I was in Martinique, I asked Amel to check my steering. They disconnected the cables at the quadrant and the wheel turned smoothly. They said everything was 100 %.

 

However when sailing up to St Maarten, the steering was under load, there was the same  clicking noise that became louder. When I got on island I took the racks and pinion apart and this is what I found. Fortunately , I had a new rack to change out the damaged one. I do not know what caused the problem as the steering pinion was like new.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 10:43 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel Martinique Rally Update...ya'll come

 

Kent and Iris,

 

As it turns out almost nothing has changed...someone else was just added to the Rally, so the count remains the same.

 

I said almost nothing because I am sure that you and Iris will be missed by everyone.

 

The updated web page can be viewed here: Amel Caribbean Rally

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 10:56 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill and all Caribbean Rally Amelians.

We are sorry to tell you that we have to go back home before the Rally and will not be able to attend.  We were really looking forward to meeting you all and seeing your beautiful Amels.

Alas, perhaps another time.

Bill, will our pulling out at the last minute like this cost anyone anything?  If so, we’d like to reimburse for what ever inconvenience it causes.

Regretfully,
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243




Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

 

I am guessing it is the same size as the SN, SM, & 54 which is 30mm.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 7:47 AM James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
To All,

   Can anyone tell me the socket size for the nut holding the copper strap on the keel bolt in the sump on a 1987 Maramu?  I need to replace the copper bonding strap on my boat and would like to have the tools on hand for the job when we arrive at the boat.  

    If replacing any of the original Amel bonding wire, is there any downside to using tinned wire?  The tinned wire by Ancor that I am familiar with does have some pretty fine wires that might be easily damaged by hose clamps so perhaps it would be best to solder those areas.  Any thoughts? 

Thanks,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 14, 2019, at 11:05 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,
You are absolutely correct.
Additionally , if you want to be totally paranoid, tinning the bonding wires at the connections will greatly increase the life of the connection. It will also prevent water from wicking down the wire. I have checked all my connections back to the rudder and they are 100 %.  I think I will take my own advice and tin a lot of the bonding. As you know Kimberlite 1s 16 years old with original wiring and I have only lost the bonding strap to the bilge connection.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 1:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Earth bonding and watermaker
 
Nick, 
 
I think that most of your questions were directed to me and I already stated that I am not an electrical engineer. Maybe some should be directed to SAV at Amel.
 
I will answer from my experience. 
  • The connections between the yellow/green bonding wire and devices will get corroded even if the wire is not soldered.
  • The resistance between the propellor and the anode should be zero or almost zero
  • I believe that the connections should be clean and free of paint and corrosion. 
  • I believe that you should check on each 2-year haulout the resistance between the rudder anodes and the propellor. This check will verify, engine, transmission, and C-Drive.
  • I think the Amel Bonding System is more than adequate. Keep in mind that there are many builders that bond nothing! Amel bonds most water connections, even when it is saltwater that is the most common culprit.
  • Some of the connections are more important than others, but at least one owner experienced significant C-Drive damage and the propellor is vulnerable if the bonding connection to the C-Drive fails
  • If you suspect something is going on, connect a wire to the rudder post quadrant and test resistance between it and the C-Drive. You are looking for good continuity and almost zero resistance.
  • Once you have verified engine, transmission & C-Drive, checking resistance between the C-Drive and various other bonding connections should ensure that the various other bonding connections are adequate, if the resistance is near zero.
  • On SN, SM, & 54, visually inspect the bonding strap inside the grey water bilge to ensure that the copper strap is OK beginning at the stainless steel nut at the bottom up to the yellow/green wire(s) junction at the top. You will have to pump 100% of the water out using a wet vac or similar. The most common place for a break is within about 3" of the stainless steel nut and even 1/2" of water will hide a break. If it is broken, replace it because this protects your cast iron ballast from electrolysis. Use 1/8" X 2" copper bar...don't use stainless steel for many reasons.
<image001.png>
 
I hope that this helps.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:58 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
 
I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.
 
Good bonding connections????
 
How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.
 
Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?
 
Kind regards
 
Nick 
 
 
S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54
On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
 
Arno,
 
Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 
 
I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):
 
Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.
 
EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.
 
EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.
 
I hope this explanation helps. 
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
 
 
 



Re: Solar Panel Arches

Ian Townsend
 

We were the second SM to install the Atlantic Towers unit. Many thanks to Pat for taking the plunge and helping set dimensions. We used the Atlantic davits and solar panel supports. I agree with everything Pat says about the lateral support and crossover dinghy lines. We prefer to put the 10' dinghy on deck and the 9.8hp outboard on the rail for longer passages and/or in rougher conditions.

Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
Exumas, Bahamas

On Mar 15, 2019, at 8:32 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Jose, I was the first one to buy and install an Atlantic arch,it is my boat on their website. We have sailed thousands of miles and make short passages ,between the islands with dingy and outboard on the arch and it handles it fine. I had to stand in the dinghy to clear fish line from the wind generator for an hour ,no problem. I think it’s important to brace any arch laterally and also hoist the dinghy with diagonal lines and lines pulling it in tight to the arch. In rough seas our dinghy does not move in any direction,reducing shock loads. I built my own davit and solar platform from s.s. tubing,very robust . 
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Nevis


Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

James Alton
 

To All,

   Can anyone tell me the socket size for the nut holding the copper strap on the keel bolt in the sump on a 1987 Maramu?  I need to replace the copper bonding strap on my boat and would like to have the tools on hand for the job when we arrive at the boat.  

    If replacing any of the original Amel bonding wire, is there any downside to using tinned wire?  The tinned wire by Ancor that I am familiar with does have some pretty fine wires that might be easily damaged by hose clamps so perhaps it would be best to solder those areas.  Any thoughts? 

Thanks,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 14, 2019, at 11:05 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,
You are absolutely correct.
Additionally , if you want to be totally paranoid, tinning the bonding wires at the connections will greatly increase the life of the connection. It will also prevent water from wicking down the wire. I have checked all my connections back to the rudder and they are 100 %.  I think I will take my own advice and tin a lot of the bonding. As you know Kimberlite 1s 16 years old with original wiring and I have only lost the bonding strap to the bilge connection.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 1:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Earth bonding and watermaker
 
Nick, 
 
I think that most of your questions were directed to me and I already stated that I am not an electrical engineer. Maybe some should be directed to SAV at Amel.
 
I will answer from my experience. 
  • The connections between the yellow/green bonding wire and devices will get corroded even if the wire is not soldered.
  • The resistance between the propellor and the anode should be zero or almost zero
  • I believe that the connections should be clean and free of paint and corrosion. 
  • I believe that you should check on each 2-year haulout the resistance between the rudder anodes and the propellor. This check will verify, engine, transmission, and C-Drive.
  • I think the Amel Bonding System is more than adequate. Keep in mind that there are many builders that bond nothing! Amel bonds most water connections, even when it is saltwater that is the most common culprit.
  • Some of the connections are more important than others, but at least one owner experienced significant C-Drive damage and the propellor is vulnerable if the bonding connection to the C-Drive fails
  • If you suspect something is going on, connect a wire to the rudder post quadrant and test resistance between it and the C-Drive. You are looking for good continuity and almost zero resistance.
  • Once you have verified engine, transmission & C-Drive, checking resistance between the C-Drive and various other bonding connections should ensure that the various other bonding connections are adequate, if the resistance is near zero.
  • On SN, SM, & 54, visually inspect the bonding strap inside the grey water bilge to ensure that the copper strap is OK beginning at the stainless steel nut at the bottom up to the yellow/green wire(s) junction at the top. You will have to pump 100% of the water out using a wet vac or similar. The most common place for a break is within about 3" of the stainless steel nut and even 1/2" of water will hide a break. If it is broken, replace it because this protects your cast iron ballast from electrolysis. Use 1/8" X 2" copper bar...don't use stainless steel for many reasons.
<image001.png>
 
I hope that this helps.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:58 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
 
I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.
 
Good bonding connections????
 
How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.
 
Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?
 
Kind regards
 
Nick 
 
 
S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54
On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
 
Arno,
 
Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 
 
I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):
 
Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.
 
EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.
 
EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.
 
I hope this explanation helps. 
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
 
 
On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
 
 
 



Engine room lining on Amel 54

Martin Bevan
 

The black covering on the engine room sound proofing on my 54 has peeled off in a number of patches. Has anyone experience of successfully repairing this without replacing the complete sound proofing?  

I think I remember seeing something on this years ago but cannot find it in the group. 


Re: Smoking Gun...

Martin Bevan
 

I know that this was two years ago but did you come up with a solution. I cannot find the original posting and I have the same problem. 

Regards
Martin


Re: Solar Panel Arches

Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, I was the first one to buy and install an Atlantic arch,it is my boat on their website. We have sailed thousands of miles and make short passages ,between the islands with dingy and outboard on the arch and it handles it fine. I had to stand in the dinghy to clear fish line from the wind generator for an hour ,no problem. I think it’s important to brace any arch laterally and also hoist the dinghy with diagonal lines and lines pulling it in tight to the arch. In rough seas our dinghy does not move in any direction,reducing shock loads. I built my own davit and solar platform from s.s. tubing,very robust . 
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Nevis