|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
When we set up the Group on Groups.io, we had the option to create what they call a Subgroup. We chose to create a sub-group called YachtsForSale. If you are looking at our homepage for Amel Yacht Owners Group click on Subgroups on the left side to go to YachtsForSale, or you will also notice a link for YachtsForSale in the Description of Amel Yacht Owners Group. Owners wanting to sell their Amel can post a "for sale notice" once every 60 days on our subgroup, YachtsForSale. Buyers searching for an Amel can post their search on YachtsForSale once every 60 days. We currently have had 2 listings and currently have 1 listing at https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/yachtforsale/topics Any member of Amel Yacht Owners Group can post in YachtsForSale by either going to the Amel Yacht Owners Group and clicking on Subgroups, or by simply sending an email to yachtforsale@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Any member of Amel Yacht Owners Group can join the subgroup YachtsForSale by either going to the Amel Yacht Owners Group and clicking on Subgroups and follow instructions, or by simply sending an email to yachtforsale+subscribe@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io. Any you can unsubscribe to the Subgroup by sending an email to: yachtforsale+unsubscribe@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Regarding monetizing the YachtsForSale listings, there is not any method currently built into Groups.io to do this. Best,
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 8:43 AM Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Pen Azen is not for sale--but I think Duncan's suggestion is worth serious consideration. This website, the wise counsel of Olivier and Joel , the engagement of Bill and the Yacht School and the input from a whole host of knowledgeable owners, have undoubtedly
added to the attraction of owning an Amel from every aspect, not least the value of each boat. An extension of the kind that Duncan suggests would go to reinforce that attraction.
Depending on the volume of sales we might need two surveyors, one in Europe and one in the US. Having two who confer might make their reputations even stronger.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...>
Sent: 20 March 2019 13:43 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paying for our group through Advertising I rather agree and Carango is currently for sale with Amel la Rochelle.
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
I rather agree and Carango is currently for sale with Amel la Rochelle.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
I think Duncan’s idea has a lot of merit.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Nick Amelia (Amel 54-019)
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
Duncan Hagemeyer
I have a suggestion. I own hull #9 Amel 54. I have not bee very active over the years in this group as my boat is very lightly used. Now health issues have me considering selling her. I have seen the passion from the Ameld'ians' and their love for this great brand. Why not create a listing service for boats that are on the market. I'm not talking about cutting out broker/dealers per se. They can provide a great service during the sales transaction process. But there is no group that will ever sell the Amel brand better than the owners of Amel boats. All boats eventually get sold and all new buyers need to have a place where they can get great - honest - knowledgeable advice on all the issues related to used Amel yachts. I would gladly list a boat with a broker with the stipulation that a small percent goes t the Amel Owners Group. Frankly, I'd rather pay another owner a fee if they matched up my boat with a new owner. Another bit of advice....the Amel is a unique boat and there really does need to be an unbiased surveyor that can assess an Amel that is offered for sale. Since I was diagnosed with bladder cancer I have had 2 surveys done and the valuation was over 20% variation. Some of the fees collected by the Amel Owners Group could be used to fund a qualified surveyor. As a seller I would love to have this person assess my boat and advice what needs to be done to bring the boat to a standard that the next owner knows precisely what they are buying and why they need to pay a price. Duncan Hagemeyer Dreamtime II Antigua
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:46 AM Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:
-- Duncan Hagemeyer 24 Rock Creek Road Emigrant, MT 59027 1-615-478-6006 1-406-848-9866 Ashling Ranch
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil amount for MD22 / Prima M50
rossirossix4
Hi Herbert,
On our Perkins M50 we would fill the oil filter as full as we could and take several minutes doing it to allow it to fully soak in. EVEN after doing that and running the engine a few minutes (and topping off the oil) AFTER an hour or 2 of engine use we would need to add another pint of oil. After my very first oil change I was concerned that the engine was using oil (it never did) but then saw no oil consumption. This phenomenon occured after every oil change. Goes without saying but if you pump the old oil directly into one of the oil jugs with a "site tube" feature on the side, you can measure the exact amount of oil removed and have a very good idea of how much replacement oil is needed. BTW, thanks for the tip on water ingress through the vent. Bob and Suzanne, Previous Owner, Brittany de la Mer, SN 86 SM 429 Presently Saint-Pierre, Martinique
|
|
|
|
Re: Bow locker floors/hawse pipe replacement project recap
Gary Silver
Thomas did post pictures already (perhaps he will post more). They are in the Photos Section and in a folder entitled "Repairs - Amel SM 53 - Bow Locker Floor Repairs"
|
|
|
|
Re: Bow locker floors/hawse pipe replacement project recap
Dear Thomas,
This is great, thank you for posting! Could you also post pictures of the different stages if you have them ? This replacement is something I have to do one day, so the more info to prepare, the better... Cheers, Guillaume Carpathia III - SM2K #293
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil amount for MD22 / Prima M50
Ian Park
Herbert
I’m the same as Craig. Never get near 6 litres on an oil change. The engine was developed as one of the first diesels for British Leyland cars - the Austin Montego. I have a Haynes manual for the car and it’s engine. Maybe the sump is shallower in the marine version? I am not at home for a couple of weeks, but I’ll check what the car version says. Ian
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
Mike Johnson
Hi Bill, Yes - Agree that it would be a sensible way of funding the site. I tried the Poll site but could vote. Regards Mike & Peta Solitude SM2K 461
On 19 Mar 2019, at 21:56, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil amount for MD22 / Prima M50
Hi Herb,
Although your post doesn't seem to mention it, let me assume you did run the engine after the first 5 or so liters so as to refill the oil filter, which takes, say, a half liter or so. Then you may have to add a bit more. Anyway, as a benchmark, I don't get a full 6 liters into my Perkins Prima M50 (same engine) when changing oil. Not to worry. Also, the Hurth gearbox is totally separate from the engine oil, and, yes, you do put the engine dipstick all the way in. If after running the engine for a few minutes and then shutting it down you've got "Max" on the dipstick, it's Miller's time - relax with a cold one. As to your water issue, the Volvo (and Perkins equivalent) water separator actually does not filter out any water - it just separates it and then, if there is an accumulation of water, a sensor in the bottom closes a switch and sounds (lights) an alarm telling you you've got water in that separator. If it does fill up it simply passes the water along to the filters - it is just an alarm that, if it works, gives you a chance to remove water before it gets to the filters. Not unusual for the sensor contacts not to activate with water in there, especially with our engines being as old as they are. Clean it out, clean the contacts, and give it another shot. Cheers, Craig
|
|
|
|
Updated Event: Amel Yacht Owners Rally - Martinique April 7 - April 13 - Sunday, 7 April 2019
#cal-invite
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
Amel Yacht Owners Rally - Martinique April 7 - April 13 When: Where: Organizer: Description: Amel Eastern Caribbean Rally Rendezvous Location: Martinique
 7-13 April du Marin la Marina du Marin is offering a berth package at 170€ per boat for 6 days: Berth from Sunday 7th April PM to Friday 12th April PM Electricity included Wifi 40Go (1 ticket of 40Go per boat) Water is not included. The price water is 9€ per cubic meter. A welcome gift from the marina To take advantage of this offer, you must reserve with the marina before 22 March. Email: contact@... Phone: +596 596 74 83 83 Wednesday 10 April - 1930 dinner at Mango Bay with a drawing for a haulout at Carenantilies Yard. Dinner sponsored by Caraibe Marine, Wine or Beer by Caribbean Yacht Sales. There will also be drawings for several of the "Amel Books."
Saturday 13 April - St. Anne anchorage pot luck lunch/dinner
Optional stops meet & greet:
Heading south to Martinique: BVI- Virgin Gorda Anchorage at 18 30.3190 N 064 22.3573 W Mar 31- Apr 2
St, Martin Anchorage or Marina to be determined April 3-5
Heading south from Martinique for hurricane season:
Bequia Admiralty Bay Anchorage Apr 22-24
- Tuesday April 23rd - Welcome drinks at the Frangipani Hotel (time to be announced)
Grenada Anchorage and Marina to be determined Apr 28-30
Chaguaramas, Trinidad (Tentative) May 2-???
|
|
|
|
Event: Welcome drinks at the Frangipani Hotel Bequia - Tuesday, 23 April 2019
#cal-invite
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
Welcome drinks at the Frangipani Hotel Bequia When: Where: Organizer: An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP Description:
|
|
|
|
Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54
Scott SV Tengah
I had the same problem and found this stuff in Spain.
It's insulation material with very sticky backing and a "mesh" through it to prevent tearing. It's foam but feels a bit like neoprene. Certainly makes things look a lot better but as the original black film coating starts peeling off, parts of the added covering start coming off. I think if I find a way to anchor it to the foam substrate in the same way that upholstery is secured to a couch, it may be perfect. This photo is what I'm thinking. https://img-aws.ehowcdn.com/350x235p/s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/contentlab.studiod/getty/261051e9af6048798eb32f1a6f934f78.jpg Scott SV Tengah Amel 54 2007
|
|
|
|
Re: New Group
Craig,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Lone Star now Trippin is doing great now in St Thomas I love this boat she was obviously well cared for Cheers 🍻 Courtney 54 #101 Trippin
On Mar 19, 2019, at 2:23 PM, Craig Scott <sv.lonestar@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Dual Pre Filters for Fuel
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hi Alan, Ooops. You are correct. In our case, we run both the genset and the Volvo on one filter. I change over whenever I note grunge or when changing the little element filter at the top. Mounted on a SS plate installed on the stbd side of the engine bearer… lined up to the aft portion of the gearbox. Works very well. Jean-Pierre Germain, ELEUTHERA, SM007
|
|
|
|
Oil amount for MD22 / Prima M50
Herbert Lackner
after cleaning all diesel filters and before cleaning up the engine room I made an oil / filter change. This time I made sure that all the oil comes out, including the small amount at the bottom (1/4 liter) that the pump does not suck out. according to the engine data sheet the engine needs ~ 6 liters of oil, but when filling in 5 liters I am already above the "high mark" at the dipstick. With previous oil changes I always thought that the rest of the oil will be somewhere inside the engine, at the bottom where the pump does not reach it. But this time I am pretty sure that all is out. I expected to fill in at least 5,5 liters,
I see the following possibilities: 1.) I have the wrong dipstick? I have Perkins Part Number 3178E012 (it is printed on the stick). 2.) The data sheet is for the MD22/MD22L/TMD22, but I have the MD22A. Maybe the MD22A needs less oil (hurth gearbox...)... 3.) I would have to check the oil-level without inserting the dipstick complete (like for the gear-oil, but as far as I know the engine oil level has to be checked with the dipstick fully pressed in) Can anyone with the same engine (Santorin) tell how much oil is needed for a complete oil change inlcuding filter or check what kind of dipstick is there (number, length) any other ideas? thx, herbert, SN120, Costa Rica PS: diesel cleaning project is in progress. I think the water came in through the tank-vent while washing the boat. now all seems to be fine, test-run in waves tomorrow. interesting: the volvo water separator (first element the tank) did not filter out all water, the Racor filter (after the water separator) did that really efficent. Only a small amount of water found its way to the filter on the engine. thx all for you recommendations and help. update will follow
|
|
|
|
Bow locker floors/hawse pipe replacement project recap
Thomas Kleman
Since so many of you offered me great guidance in the two threads my project spawned, I thought I owed everyone a quick update (and of course about 100 beers).
About a month ago while working in the port bow locker, the floor buckled (plywood separating from the fiberglass) and my project began. While we all know Amels don't have design flaws, a few "undocumented system features" emerged that I wanted to address. Specifically: 1) Bow locker floors needed to be robust and glassed on BOTH sides 2) There needed to be access for a normal sized person into the chain locker, because.... 3) There also needed to be access into what I'll call the chain locker bilge, the glassed-in grating next to the bulkhead where all the rust, mud, and other things accumulate from the chain and clog the chain locker drain 4) The hawse pipe needed to be corrosion proof and not terminate next to unprotected wood 5) The back starboard bolt on the windlass needed to be accessible (vs. fiberglassed over) and the rusted out steel flange needed to be replaced by something corrosion proof as well. I'm aware that others have had some version of this problem and looked at it differently.....some don't have this problem at all. Nevertheless this was my design criteria. After the demolition phase, I chose 3/4 inch marine plywood and double-glassed both sides as well as the ends. After leaving a 2 inch fiberglass lip (the underlying plywood fell off just by pulling), I used two cardboard templates. The wood was cut with a taper to conform to the hull angle (or better said, an attempt was made to do this). After glassing the wood panels (each floors were made from a single piece of wood- the port floor barely fit through the opening) the access door was cut into the center of the port locker floor. The locker's remaining fiberglass lip and 4 inches above it were sanded to bare fiberglass. The floor was placed on top of a thick resin mix resting on the lip. Then gaps were filled and filleted. Finally, the floor was tabbed to the locker wall. The hawse pipe header was constructed out of molded resin and grinded/dremeled to the shape I needed to hold 4 inch PVC pipe, and to serve as a plate to hold the back starboard windlass bolt. It was then glued/screwed under the windlass; the bolt was accessible, but barely. The bottom of the PVC pipe was fitted with both a flange (to hold in to the bottom of the floor) and a protective ring of 1/2 inch star-board over the flange to take any chain impact. The paint is drying in both lockers as I write this. What would I do differently/what did I learn along the way ? 1) The port locker floor cutout is tricky. Amel glassed the top side of the plywood after they laid it down. On SM #422, this gave it a subtle curve. When I double-glassed both sides of the form I made, I created a super rigid 2- dimensional structure. Fitting it on the lip (which conformed to the curved non-glassed plywood) was quite challenging as it weighed quite a bit and I was working mostly alone. About 90 pct of the floor is flush against the lip (the other 10% has a slight gap that I had to fill between the lip and the wood from underneath). This was less than pleasant. 2) I used 3 gallons of resin on this project. Along the way I got a lot better at knowing when/how to thicken the resin for different applications. 3) I also fabricated the hawse pipe header myself (after one "mulligan"). This is a super useful skill I wish I had learned years ago. Anyway, I have a few loose ends to tie up. I understand that Amel does this for $3,600 or something like that. I think that makes my wage rate about $1.55 per hour after materials are subtracted. All in all, a great learning experience and I'm satisfied that the boat is better now. And once again thanks to all for the advice. I used (and needed) almost all of it. Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT SM2K #422 Shelter Bay Marina, Panama
|
|
|
|
locked
Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
eric freedman
Hi Bill, Who is the supplier? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
A new poll has been created: Our Amel Yacht Owners Group is hosted on the Groups.io platform. I pay an annual cost for this, which I agreed to cover for 5 years. We were approached by a supplier that many of us have used. This supplier wants to advertise in our group. Almost 30 of us have used this supplier. We are considering allowing this supplier to advertise on the header of the Wiki page. Click on Wiki to view the area. 1. Yes, I agree if it will pay the cost of hosting
|
|
|
|
Re: K1 & K2 Location - Amel 54
Faial Livingston
Hi Bill,
Have attached all the drawings in reference to electrical that I have been looking at to the folder you created. Regards, Faial Cataya - Amel 54
|
|
|
