Date   
Re: Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

Gary Silver
 

Hi Bill and Paul:

If the run capacitors on the 230 volt motor are old and out of specification they can cause your motor to run hot.  It might be worth disconnecting the capacitors and testing their capacitance with a multimeter that has a capacitance measuring capability.  My experience is that these capacitors are good for about 10 years.  Just one more thing to consider.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico

Yacht insurance

James Cromie
 

Hello fellow Amelians - 
I know that there has been recent discussion on various insurance carriers, and many people have found the need to change insurers due to geographic limitations or extremely restrictive policies.  

I am now in the same predicament and am looking to change from Pantaenius to another insurer while in the Southern / Western Caribbean during the hurricane season.  
 I have inquired with Y-Yachts and Top Sail, and both of these informed me that they cannot yet insure US documented yachts. 
I have found Novamar to be reasonably priced and will allow us to keep our boat in the ABC's during the hurricane season.  

Do any of you have experience with Novamar?  
I am also interested in recommendations for other carriers.  

As always, I greatly appreciate the time and shared experience of the group!  

Best,
James
Soteria SM2000 #347
Frederiksted, St. Croix

Re: Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

Paul Dowd <paul.dowd@...>
 

Hi Arno,

Ok, I have found the problem: it was the TDS sensor connections that were corroded so it was shutting down because it thought the water quality was bad. However, what confused me is that I thought the red alarm light should go on in this case but it does not. The other thing that confused me was that after you suggested it was the motor thermal cut-out I checked the temperature of the motor and it was too hot to touch, but it now seems that was just because the generator was running. Then when I tries the 240V motor that also seemed very hot, but in that occasion it stopped because the pulley wheel bearing was not holding.

After cleaning the TDS connections and changing the pulley wheel it has now been working fine for an hour with the generator running. I am now getting the old pulley wheel welded so it can still be used but without the other side connected. I paid €300 for it and it lasted only a year!

I also checked the TDS and its 420ppm and I believe less than 500 is ok.

About belt tightness, they can be tightened by sliding the motor on its mounting.

In reply to Bill's request about the CAT pump, when my last one gave up I got a used CAT 277 but the 24V breaker kept tripping. I asked Dessalator and they said you cannot use the this one as it will burn out the motor. That's when I ordered one from Dessalator, and they sent me a CAT 237. My old one had the centre piston removed and blocked off. I don’t know if the new one is the same and I'm not about to take it apart to find out. I note that BHP pumps sells a CAT 237 for USD1113 whereas I paid Dessalator EUR1300 = USD1450. I note some differences in the spec between the 277 and 237, but I still don’t know if the blocked centre piston is a standard feature or a Dessalator modification.

Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arno Luijten
Sent: 03 April 2019 12:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

Hi Paul,

When I took apart my watermaker last week I saw no way to tighten the belts. So over tightening the belts seems unlikely unless you have replace them with shorter ones.
It seems like your pump is taking more power than expected to rotate. Did something change about the pump?
I did replace the oil in mine (using standard 15W40 motor oil as prescribed). There is a small indicator that tells you about the oil level.
Did you take any of the single direction pulleys off? Did you put them back on in the correct way?
Also you may have introduced a blockage in the path after the pump. Does it run smoothly when you take off the HP hose from the mebranes?

Just some suggestions to help determine what is wrong…

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna
A54-121

Re: Bruntons older than1996 maintance manuel

 

Thanks. I thought that you would have this model AutoProp.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 1:09 AM ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...> wrote:
Hi everbady,
I would like to share email came from Bruntos about older 1996 model propeller.

Safe sailing

Ahmet KIPCAK
SM247
Cesme / Izmir




İleti başlangıcı:

Kimden: David Sheppard <david@...>
Tarih: 1 Nisan 2019 17:58:47 GMT+3
Kime: ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...>
Konu: Ynt:⁨ Greasing ⁩

Dear Ahmet,

You have an original Autoprop open ball bearing type from about 1995/97. Thease models went out of production shortly after this date and where replaced with the sealed bearing version. Your propeller therefore does not require greasing, see attached.  



Kind Regards      
David Sheppard
   T: +44 (0) 1255 420005             M: +44 (0) 7808 571 359



Brunton's Propellers Ltd | Oakwood Business Park | Stephenson Road | Clacton-on-Sea | Essex | CO15 4TL | UK

Re: Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Paul,

When I took apart my watermaker last week I saw no way to tighten the belts. So over tightening the belts seems unlikely unless you have replace them with shorter ones.
It seems like your pump is taking more power than expected to rotate. Did something change about the pump?
I did replace the oil in mine (using standard 15W40 motor oil as prescribed). There is a small indicator that tells you about the oil level.
Did you take any of the single direction pulleys off? Did you put them back on in the correct way?
Also you may have introduced a blockage in the path after the pump. Does it run smoothly when you take off the HP hose from the mebranes?

Just some suggestions to help determine what is wrong…

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna
A54-121

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

JOHN HAYES
 

No sweat managed with some difficulty to find the inside nuts which hold the earth plate on. The old one munted but found a replacement which should arrive in 24 hours

 

On the copper bar I thought the connection might be better to drill and tap a small hole it the top of the nut and screw the bar onto it rather than putting under the keel boat nut. . Access looks a bit easier without an engine. Putting a D250 volvo in which is identical to the prima but has the advantage of a gear not a cam driven water. Pump and a timing chain not a rubber band……..and it comes with a 5 year warranty.

 

Best

 

John SN 41

 

From: John Hayes <johnhayes862@...>
Date: Wednesday, 3 April 2019 at 12:50 PM
To: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

 

Brilliant Denise Bill and others

 

NGA Waka is on the slip so brought copper bar and following your contributions 

 

Any one replaced the HF radio earth sitting under the hills bit abaft of the mizzenmast on a Santorin?  Ours is pretty pitted and could usefully be replaced

 

Any thoughts gratefully received 

 

Best John Hayes hull 41

 


On 3/04/2019, at 4:46 AM, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

 

Denise

s/v CARA

Chesapeake Bay

Bruntons older than1996 maintance manuel

ahmet kipcak
 

Hi everbady,
I would like to share email came from Bruntos about older 1996 model propeller.

Safe sailing

Ahmet KIPCAK
SM247
Cesme / Izmir




İleti başlangıcı:

Kimden: David Sheppard <david@...>
Tarih: 1 Nisan 2019 17:58:47 GMT+3
Kime: ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...>
Konu: Ynt:⁨ Greasing ⁩

Dear Ahmet,

You have an original Autoprop open ball bearing type from about 1995/97. Thease models went out of production shortly after this date and where replaced with the sealed bearing version. Your propeller therefore does not require greasing, see attached.  



Kind Regards      
David Sheppard
   T: +44 (0) 1255 420005             M: +44 (0) 7808 571 359



Brunton's Propellers Ltd | Oakwood Business Park | Stephenson Road | Clacton-on-Sea | Essex | CO15 4TL | UK

Re: Greasing autoprop

ahmet kipcak
 

Hello Olivier,

Thanks for info,as you said my one is previous model without greasing nipple. I got an maintance instruction from Bruntons which will be very helpfull for me.I will forward email came from Bruntons.


Best tehatds

Ahmet KİPCAK






Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> şunları yazdı (1 Nis 2019 19:58):

Hello Ahmet,

I checked SM 246 and it had an AUTOPROP with open bearings, so, you probably have the same kind. Unlike the later models, which have sealed bearings with steel balls, your prop has stainless steel balls on open tracks. Although they don't really need it, you may grease these balls from the outside. This will prevent too much scaling on the balls.
If you feel the bearings make a grinding noise, then it's time to replace the balls and tracks, which you can order from Brunton's. The stainless steel balls don't stand wear as much as the steel ones (which rust, nobody's perfect, that's why they are sealed with grease nipples for renewing the grease).
No grease nipples on the first model of the Autoprop.

Good luck.

FYI (everybody) hull #259 has an Autoprop with sealed bearings, the change is around 250.

Olivier

On Monday, April 1, 2019, 4:25:19 PM GMT+2, ahmet kipcak <ahmetkipcak@...> wrote:


Dear all,
Thanks for your valuable feedback, As BilI said my one seems to be an old model, I will contact with Mr David from Bruntons.

Ahmet KİPCAK
SM247
Cesme/Izmir




Brent Cameron <brentcameron61@...> şunları yazdı (1 Nis 2019 16:38):

The new forum with its ability to easily embed pictures into your posts as Mark has done to answer Ahmet's excellent question is a vast improvement.  It makes it so much easier for everyone to understand the topic in context.  It's been said many times now but kudos to all of the moderators for making this happen - especially as seamlessly as they did! 
--
Brent Cameron

Future Super Maramu 2000 Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Does anyone know about a keel bonding strap on a Sharki? I assume it should be the same as on a Maramu or Mango...
Fair winds
Rainer 



On 3 Apr 2019, at 03:05, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I also used this method however I used a thicker and wider strap.

I also used a torch with solder  and bolts to fasten the top of the old bonding strap to my new one.

Having some ratchet wrench extensions is a good thing to have on board without having to fabricate a T handle. Be sure to tape the extensions together just in case.

If you happen to be in the USA you can but almost any flat copper strap or plate from McMaster Carr. This is an incredible website they have everything mechanical you need. Their paper catalog is over 3000 pages.

Check it out.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2019 3:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

 

What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.

 

I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.

 

1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide.

2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air.

3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water.

4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly.

5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a

bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step.

6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it

out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side.

7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry

8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to

extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up

the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.

<image001.png>

9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the

Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old

Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper.

10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket.

11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the

top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.

<image002.png>

 

<image003.png>

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

 

Denise

s/v CARA

Chesapeake Bay

Re: SM2000 for Sale

Dave Robards
 

Hello Paul,
I have seen the ad for your SM2K and am most interested.  Please contact me directly. daver997@...

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

eric freedman
 

I also used this method however I used a thicker and wider strap.

I also used a torch with solder  and bolts to fasten the top of the old bonding strap to my new one.

Having some ratchet wrench extensions is a good thing to have on board without having to fabricate a T handle. Be sure to tape the extensions together just in case.

If you happen to be in the USA you can but almost any flat copper strap or plate from McMaster Carr. This is an incredible website they have everything mechanical you need. Their paper catalog is over 3000 pages.

Check it out.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2019 3:59 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

 

What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.

 

I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.

 

1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide.

2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air.

3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water.

4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly.

5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a

bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step.

6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it

out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side.

7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry

8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to

extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up

the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.

image.png

9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the

Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old

Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper.

10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket.

11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the

top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.

image.png

 

image.png

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

 

Denise

s/v CARA

Chesapeake Bay

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

JOHN HAYES
 

Brilliant Denise Bill and others

NGA Waka is on the slip so brought copper bar and following your contributions 

Any one replaced the HF radio earth sitting under the hills bit abaft of the mizzenmast on a Santorin?  Ours is pretty pitted and could usefully be replaced

Any thoughts gratefully received 

Best John Hayes hull 41



On 3/04/2019, at 4:46 AM, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

Denise
s/v CARA
Chesapeake Bay

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

James Alton
 

Tom,

I also need to replace the bonding strap on my Maramu and took Bill’s advice to purchase some 1/8” x 2” copper. I think that using the thicker copper is a good idea and should make the strap less vulnerable to damage from bilge cleaning and corrosion. Since I am not at my boat currently I scaled the drawing for the Maramu and determined that the copper strap length should be around 55-60” so I purchased a 5’ pc. I will post the exact measurements once I have done this job on Sueno. Perhaps someone else that has done this job on a Maramu can confirm the required strap length and also the size of the nut on the aft keel bolt holding the strap.

Best of luck with your project,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 2, 2019, at 5:42 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:



Sent from my iPhone Bill do you have information for the bonding strap on a 1983 Maramu thanks Tom
Aphrodite #123
Saint Bart’s

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

 

Tom,

I do not, but I hope someone with a Maramu and this knowledge will answer.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:42 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:


  Bill do you have information for the bonding strap on a 1983 Maramu thanks Tom
Aphrodite #123
Saint Bart’s


Re: Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

Paul Dowd <paul.dowd@...>
 

Bill,

 

I do believe Arno is right about the motor overheating. I changed over to using the 230V motor and that got very hot and then came to a halt. So I am puzzled about what it is about the new pump that is causing both motors to overheat. Could it be belts too tight? I allow for about an inch of depression in the middle. Could it be too much oil in the pump or the wrong kind?

 

I do not think it is any of the possibilities you mentioned Bill as the red light dos not come on, the pressure is normal, and the water seems fine.

 

Cheers,

 

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: 30 March 2019 11:11
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator shuts down for no apparent reason - CAT Pump Modification for less than 160 liters

 

Paul,

 

You might want to check with Dessalator. I think the 3 common reasons for shutdown are:

  1. Over Pressure - Sometimes caused by a faulty pressure gauge, or a pressure sensor
  2. High TDS - What is your measured TDS of the product water?
  3. Lack of water flow - check everything from outside your boat to the HP pump (the line from outside through the valve to the strainer, hoses, all the way to through the pre-filter

I believe that all of the above will show a red light. Of course it could be other things.

 

I hope this helps you find the issue.

 

CAT Pump Modification on Dessalator Systems less than 160l:

This is the first time that I heard that Dessalator removes a piston on the CAT HP pump in order to reduce the flow for systems less than 160 liter. I find this very interesting and those who have purchased a CAT HP pump for Dessalator systems less than 160l from sources other than Dessalator, should take note. Paul, if you could, could you post anything else that you have on this subject.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Sat, Mar 30, 2019 at 8:29 AM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <yafohi@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I have a Dessalator 100 Duo and have just installed a brand new CAT pump supplied by Dessalator (i.e. with the centre piston removed). I use the 24V motor. All seems to be working well except that now the watermaker shuts down for no apparant reason after about half an hour. The red warning light does not go on, and the breaker does not trip. If I restart it after a short while it shuts down again within a few minutes. If I leave it until the next day it runs for about half an hour then shuts down. I changed the pre-filter but still the same thing happens. This only started happening after about 6-7 hours of use after having installed the new pump.

I would be interested to know if anyone has experienced this problem and if so how it was fixed. .

--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

amel46met
 

Sent from my iPhone Bill do you have information for the bonding strap on a 1983 Maramu thanks Tom
Aphrodite #123
Saint Bart’s

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Very impressive Bill, once more it shows that you are the leading authority about Amels...


On 2 Apr 2019, at 20:59, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.

I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.

1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide.
2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air.
3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water.
4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly.
5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a
bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step.
6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it
out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side.
7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry
8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to
extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up
the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.
<image.png>
9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the
Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old
Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper.
10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket.
11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the
top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.
<image.png>

<image.png>
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

Denise
s/v CARA
Chesapeake Bay

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi AMEL Gang,

Thanks a lot for all your great input and Barry to bring the topic to the Forum. Therefore a lot of cleaning work on WASABI will be a head of us.
I suppose the Bilge was never emptied to the ground the last ten years. So some treasure of the bilge may come up tomorrow ;-)

Best regards
Ruedi
WASABI 
AMEL 54 #55

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

 

What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.

I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.

1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide.
2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air.
3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water.
4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly.
5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a
bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step.
6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it
out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side.
7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry
8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to
extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up
the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.
image.png
9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the
Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old
Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper.
10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket.
11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the
top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.
image.png

image.png
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk 

Denise
s/v CARA
Chesapeake Bay

Re: Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi Rick,

Thank's for that info. When I go tomorrow I will be looking for something stronger than a thin strap. Maybe get the pipe and just flatten it with a solid hammer and bend it to shape, no need to cut it in half.

Best Regards

Barry,
"Lady Penelope II"
Amel 54. #17

On Tuesday, April 2, 2019, 1:48:41 PM EDT, Rick Grimes <rickgrimes1@...> wrote:


You have lots of help on this one. But I’ll offer up this (used on my ASM2K): While in Panama, I purchased a 1/4th inch thick copper bar, bent it into shape and installed it to replace my paper thin copper strap (which, like yours, had worn out and was detached.)  You will need to measure it out carefully and have the tools to bend it and to drill the right size hole to fit the bolt. Maybe over done but it will last a lot longer.  I used duct tape to keep the nut in place when I put it back on.   Good luck! 

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Rick & Linda Grimes
S/V Rascal 
2003 ASM2K #404