Date   

Re: Insurance update US East Coast & Bahamas- Pantaenius US

eric freedman
 

Hi Miles,
I am so happy that you were re-insured. I found it odd as they said they would be renewing my policy and not yours, however I always dealt direct.
Fair Winds,
Eric



On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 12:52 PM, Miles wrote:

Hello Group,

For a change, I have some good news.  I had told the group that Pantaenius was not renewing my insurance and several of you gave me good advice in the frustrating search I have been on for the last 2 weeks.  Today, I found out that Pantaenius has an issue with my broker, not with me.  I phoned Pantaenius and they said they would be happy to continue covering me directly.  Panic over!! 

 I take the boat north for the summer, so the hurricane coverage was not a problem.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help me with this.

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug, sm216, Le Marin, Martinique


Re: Insurance update US East Coast & Bahamas- Pantaenius US

Miles
 

Hello Group,

For a change, I have some good news.  I had told the group that Pantaenius was not renewing my insurance and several of you gave me good advice in the frustrating search I have been on for the last 2 weeks.  Today, I found out that Pantaenius has an issue with my broker, not with me.  I phoned Pantaenius and they said they would be happy to continue covering me directly.  Panic over!! 

 I take the boat north for the summer, so the hurricane coverage was not a problem.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help me with this.

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug, sm216, Le Marin, Martinique


Re: New Engine alignment in a SM

 

Graham,

Mounts, or alignment.

I believe that even if the mounts were in poor condition, a good alignment would likely result in no vibration.

Did the technician "eye the alignment" (most likely), use the Vetus Coupling to perform the alignment, or use a fixed coupling to perform the alignment (unlikely)? 

If he did not use a "Fixed Coupling," I suggest that you start over with new mounts and a fixed coupling, which can be machined there. I do not have an engineered drawing, but do have a drawing that a machinist can use. Possibly you can buy one at SAV"at"amel.fr. Install new mounts and align with the Fixed Coupling using feeler gauges N, S, E & W. If you did not already, you should have replaced the rubber donuts inside the coupling (inexpensive--$25USD--using Vetus kit K018).

I hope this helps you.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 7:26 AM Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The "C" drive is in two assemblies:
  • the upper unit (that is coupled to the engine transmission) weighs, I would estimate, about 80 pounds. Below the gearbox of this upper unit is what I recall Olivier calling the "trumpet" which has about a 3 inch  wide sleeve of neoprene-like gasket material around it where it engages the hull structure sealing the flange around the vertical drive shaft hole. Around that is the hose clamped to both the hull flange and the trumpet.
  • The upper unit is supported, then in three places: at both sides of the top by the steel cross members bolted to the engine angle iron stringers and by the trumpet resting on the hull with the gasket in between. None of its weight is carried by the keel.
  • The lower unit weighs, I'd estimate, about 50 pounds and is supported by the keel at the bolt. As I recall there were two washers (shims) under the lower unit on the bolt, plus a rubber sleeve and steel compression sleeve around the bolt. The top is sealed with silicone after the bolt is secured..
  • There is a lifting eye on the engine room overhead straight above the upper unit to facilitate removal and adjustment with a block and tackle. (Feel around inside the insulation.)
If your engineer replaced all the engine frame mounts I could see the possibility of the "C" drive being askew. If he just did the engine then it sounds like an issue with the engine-to-C drive coupling.

Good luck with it.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, Delray Beach, Fl


Re: New Engine alignment in a SM

Craig Briggs
 

The "C" drive is in two assemblies:
  • the upper unit (that is coupled to the engine transmission) weighs, I would estimate, about 80 pounds. Below the gearbox of this upper unit is what I recall Olivier calling the "trumpet" which has about a 3 inch  wide sleeve of neoprene-like gasket material around it where it engages the hull structure sealing the flange around the vertical drive shaft hole. Around that is the hose clamped to both the hull flange and the trumpet.
  • The upper unit is supported, then in three places: at both sides of the top by the steel cross members bolted to the engine angle iron stringers and by the trumpet resting on the hull with the gasket in between. None of its weight is carried by the keel.
  • The lower unit weighs, I'd estimate, about 50 pounds and is supported by the keel at the bolt. As I recall there were two washers (shims) under the lower unit on the bolt, plus a rubber sleeve and steel compression sleeve around the bolt. The top is sealed with silicone after the bolt is secured..
  • There is a lifting eye on the engine room overhead straight above the upper unit to facilitate removal and adjustment with a block and tackle. (Feel around inside the insulation.)
If your engineer replaced all the engine frame mounts I could see the possibility of the "C" drive being askew. If he just did the engine then it sounds like an issue with the engine-to-C drive coupling.

Good luck with it.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, Delray Beach, Fl


Piracy attemt between Genada and Trinidad

Mark Erdos
 

For those intending to summer in Trinidad:

 

https://safetyandsecuritynet.org/date-2019-04-04-1030-country-name-trinidad-tobago-location-detail-trinidad-hibiscus-gas-platform-event-attempted-piracy/

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - San Blas Islands, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Changing engine bearings Amel Mango Perkins 4.236

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Frederic,

these mounts were custom made by AMEL, from a home made steel frame and 6 rubber mounts with machine screw (steel).
The steel parts are probably in good condition. What you need to order (from AMEL) is the 5 small and one big rubber mounts that are bolted in the steel frame, and that you can see on the attached picture (Mango too). The big one is located under the vertical stud.

Viel Spass!

Olivier

On Thursday, April 18, 2019, 11:34:18 AM GMT+2, Conn Williamson <connwilliamson@...> wrote:


I did a couple of mine a few years ago now. I just took the the whole lot to an engineering shop. There is a big round rubber inside that square. 

On Thu., 18 Apr. 2019, 6:02 pm Frederic F, <fgf@...> wrote:
Hello everyone, hello amelowners,

we are new to this group and have a problem with our Mango, we want to change our engine bearings on the Perkins 4.236 because they are still the first ones and the engine is quite noisy. Does anybody have an idea where to get some spare or how we can easily manufacture some similar parts for replacing the old ones? 
Maybe someone replaced his bearings already. I have attached a picture of one of the bearings.

Thank you very much and all the best.

Frederic Fießer on Mango No. 14


Re: Changing engine bearings Amel Mango Perkins 4.236

Conn Williamson <connwilliamson@...>
 

I did a couple of mine a few years ago now. I just took the the whole lot to an engineering shop. There is a big round rubber inside that square. 


On Thu., 18 Apr. 2019, 6:02 pm Frederic F, <fgf@...> wrote:
Hello everyone, hello amelowners,

we are new to this group and have a problem with our Mango, we want to change our engine bearings on the Perkins 4.236 because they are still the first ones and the engine is quite noisy. Does anybody have an idea where to get some spare or how we can easily manufacture some similar parts for replacing the old ones? 
Maybe someone replaced his bearings already. I have attached a picture of one of the bearings.

Thank you very much and all the best.

Frederic Fießer on Mango No. 14


Re: New Engine alignment in a SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

hi Graham,

 I can't answer your questions on the C drive, but if the Beta is 80kg heavier I would look at  the issue of different mounts that you mention.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Graham Boyd via Groups.Io <crwggb@...>
Sent: 18 April 2019 06:42
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] New Engine alignment in a SM
 
I have just had a new Beta 60 fitted to my SM no 140. Everything is just great, performance exactly the same if not better than the old Volvo, with one exception.
 
There is a very slight vibration present which was not there before. This is the sort of vibration like a very small bit of rope on the prop, that only someone who has sailed a SM for many miles is going to detect. Visually the C drive would appear to have slightly more movement than before.
 
Unfortunately my engineer failed to take accurate measurements before disassembly of the old engine, so Amel have sent me their basic instructions for aligning the engine and C drive, what my engineer doesn't understand though is the following 
 
1 What is the weight of the C drive
 
2 Where is the weight of the C drive supported on the boat?
 Does it 
a. "hang" from the metal frame inside the boat supported by its 2 rubber mounts. (The positioning of the main engine mounts under the metal frame would suggest this may be the case so that weight is equally distributed between front and back mounts.)
OR
b. Is all its weight supported by its attachment at its base to the cast iron part of the keel?
 
Once we know this, alignment can be rechecked, perhaps a new coupling fitted and even slightly stiffer mounts fitted under the metal frame. the new engine is 80 kg heavier than the old.
 
If you have the time I look forward to your comments on this matter,
 
Best wishes 

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong


Changing engine bearings Amel Mango Perkins 4.236

Frederic F
 

Hello everyone, hello amelowners,

we are new to this group and have a problem with our Mango, we want to change our engine bearings on the Perkins 4.236 because they are still the first ones and the engine is quite noisy. Does anybody have an idea where to get some spare or how we can easily manufacture some similar parts for replacing the old ones? 
Maybe someone replaced his bearings already. I have attached a picture of one of the bearings.

Thank you very much and all the best.

Frederic Fießer on Mango No. 14


New Engine alignment in a SM

Graham Boyd
 

I have just had a new Beta 60 fitted to my SM no 140. Everything is just great, performance exactly the same if not better than the old Volvo, with one exception.
 
There is a very slight vibration present which was not there before. This is the sort of vibration like a very small bit of rope on the prop, that only someone who has sailed a SM for many miles is going to detect. Visually the C drive would appear to have slightly more movement than before.
 
Unfortunately my engineer failed to take accurate measurements before disassembly of the old engine, so Amel have sent me their basic instructions for aligning the engine and C drive, what my engineer doesn't understand though is the following 
 
1 What is the weight of the C drive
 
2 Where is the weight of the C drive supported on the boat?
 Does it 
a. "hang" from the metal frame inside the boat supported by its 2 rubber mounts. (The positioning of the main engine mounts under the metal frame would suggest this may be the case so that weight is equally distributed between front and back mounts.)
OR
b. Is all its weight supported by its attachment at its base to the cast iron part of the keel?
 
Once we know this, alignment can be rechecked, perhaps a new coupling fitted and even slightly stiffer mounts fitted under the metal frame. the new engine is 80 kg heavier than the old.
 
If you have the time I look forward to your comments on this matter,
 
Best wishes 

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong


Re: Plastic Bins for Heads

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for that recco Thomas.  We are in the market for replacements also. 

It looks like a simple decision to me, unless the challenge was trying to agree on which finish Henri would have chosen versus which finish Kirsten wanted.

Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387



On Wed, Apr 17, 2019, 8:58 AM Thomas Kleman <lorient422@... wrote:
This was probably the most difficult sourcing project ever for me on SM 422. I spent hours and hours but settled on the simplehuman 4.5 liter round waste bin. It looks nicer than the old plastic one (it's metal) and so far has been durable. And it fits perfectly. Hope this helps.


Re: Plastic Bins for Heads

Thomas Kleman
 

This was probably the most difficult sourcing project ever for me on SM 422. I spent hours and hours but settled on the simplehuman 4.5 liter round waste bin. It looks nicer than the old plastic one (it's metal) and so far has been durable. And it fits perfectly. Hope this helps.


Re: Plastic Bins for Heads

mr_hermanns
 

David!

I too have this problem, and unable to source the originals.

Does anyone know of a good replacement brand/model?

#seekingnewtrashbinsforOGAmel

-Jer

--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
Marina Del Rey, CA


Re: Amel SM 2000 in the UK

Mark Barter
 

Hi Andrew,

We have booked 8 days in Girona from the 27th April to the 5th May.

We would love to come and see your Amel at your convenience.

This really is very kind of you.

Many thanks
Mark


Re: Insurance update US East Coast & Bahamas- Pantaenius US

Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:

Any chance you received a premium quote from Novamar if the boat was inside the hurricane box? (i.e. in Puerto Rico or elsewhere in the Caribbean).  I will be hauling here in Puerto Rico June 26th.  They have a reinforced cement grid network for tying boats down and those boats tied to this grid had no damage during the Cat IV Maria.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico 


Re: Greasing autoprop

 

David,

This only applies to the H6 AutoProp designed to be greased. The older H6 version does not take grease.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Apr 16, 2019 at 10:45 AM David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Whenever hauling your AMEL fitted with a BRUNTONS AutoProp, one of the first things on the To Do list should be to grease the autoprop.  This is because, especially for longer haul-outs, any water that is already/remaining in the grease channels and bearing races will dry out and leave residual salt crystals, thereby restricting the channels and potentiality also contaminating the grease in the bearing areas.  Making it harder to later apply grease to all areas, and increasing the likelihood gunky grease, friction and excess wear.    Applying grease early on straight after leaving the water introduces fresh grease to the area, thereby displacing any salt water that may be in the prop lube channels.

This was personal advice received from Rod Sampson, who is the US guy for Bruntons; we met him at the Annapolis Boat Show 2017; www.kingpropulsion.com.

David
SM#396, Perigee
Panama




Re: Greasing autoprop

Mohammad Shirloo
 

This is the same advice we received from Bruntons UK.

Happy Sailing;


Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
AMEL 54 #099

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Vogel via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 8:46 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing autoprop

Hi all,

Whenever hauling your AMEL fitted with a BRUNTONS AutoProp, one of the first things on the To Do list should be to grease the autoprop. This is because, especially for longer haul-outs, any water that is already/remaining in the grease channels and bearing races will dry out and leave residual salt crystals, thereby restricting the channels and potentiality also contaminating the grease in the bearing areas. Making it harder to later apply grease to all areas, and increasing the likelihood gunky grease, friction and excess wear. Applying grease early on straight after leaving the water introduces fresh grease to the area, thereby displacing any salt water that may be in the prop lube channels.

This was personal advice received from Rod Sampson, who is the US guy for Bruntons; we met him at the Annapolis Boat Show 2017; www.kingpropulsion.com.

David
SM#396, Perigee
Panama


Re: Greasing autoprop

David Vogel
 

Hi all,

Whenever hauling your AMEL fitted with a BRUNTONS AutoProp, one of the first things on the To Do list should be to grease the autoprop. This is because, especially for longer haul-outs, any water that is already/remaining in the grease channels and bearing races will dry out and leave residual salt crystals, thereby restricting the channels and potentiality also contaminating the grease in the bearing areas. Making it harder to later apply grease to all areas, and increasing the likelihood gunky grease, friction and excess wear. Applying grease early on straight after leaving the water introduces fresh grease to the area, thereby displacing any salt water that may be in the prop lube channels.

This was personal advice received from Rod Sampson, who is the US guy for Bruntons; we met him at the Annapolis Boat Show 2017; www.kingpropulsion.com.

David
SM#396, Perigee
Panama


Plastic Bins for Heads

David Vogel
 

Greetings all,

Our plastic bin in the forward head is starting to show signs of deterioration, cracking and the foot-pedal fractured. We have looked high and low for a suitable replacement, but to no avail.

Does anyone know where to source these, or a suitable replacement?

Thanks,

David
SM#396, Perigee
La Playita, Panama


Re: Eno Stove Electronic Ignitor

Gregory Dmitriev
 

Yes. Battery connection is the often problem.
I’ve experienced the same and changed the compartment.

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