Date   

Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

 

Gary,

I think you identified two big issues. The heat will reach the operating temperature of the engine, which is 80C. 

I just did a search of nylocs. The temperature range is all over the place, but 80 degrees seems within the range of all I checked that specify a temperature range. And 10-15 used seems to be the range of those that claimed multiple use. 

The fact is that most of us would not think of these things and grab nylocs from a bin without any verification of material used, or specifications. That fact, along with the fact that Chinese manufacturers probably make most of these, spells problems.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, May 30, 2019, 9:17 AM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Kent:

You are correct that Nylock nuts a single use items (at least in aircraft applications and I assume in other critical applications).  They are also low heat suitable as nylon deforms at temperature.  I don't know how hot this area gets but perhaps metal locking nuts would be better.  In the aircraft industry metal locking nuts are used in virtually all engine compartment applications.  There are specially coated metal locking nuts that are suitable even on exhaust components. 
Various types such as  https://jlanfranco.com/products/all-metal-locknuts/    or  for aircraft https://catalog.continental-aero.com/viewitems/all-metal-lock-nuts/all-categories-all-metal-lock-nuts-aero-flex

You will have to do some research to find the metric size and grade you need. 

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico 


Re: Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

David Vogel
 

Thanks Bill, for the double-barrel response,

Batteries: We are leaning towards replacing the whole lot with FIREFLYs, per Bill KINNEY on Harmonie. If this does not prove possible within a reasonable time frame, we will disconnect the pair containing the remaining single from the pair that contained the dud battery, and head on out, anticipating replacement in NZ late 2020 if we can keep things going for that long, otherwise Tahiti.

ONAN: In addition to replacing the Starter and –ve solenoid, I went through all the troubleshooting steps as suggested and per the Service Manual – all apparently OK and with no change – still a failure to crank. When I finally got the technicians on board, they poked around finding nothing and eventually plugged in an old Control-Board from an ONAN 21kVa Genset. This, apparently, has enough commonality with the 7MDKAV to enable our unit to crank, start and run (for 3 seconds before the protective mechanisms engaged and shut the unit down; this test repeated 3 times). Thereby indicating that all our switches, relays etc are OK, but the PCB itself is at fault. We’re n
ow trying to source one of these control boards.

Cheers,

David&Leanne, PERIGEE, SM#396, Panama
Bound for French Polynesia


From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@gmail.com>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Sunday, 26 May 2019 at 1:30 pm
To: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

I am not sure, and I believe you believe the same. With thousands of miles ahead of you and 3+ year old battery bank, I would consider changing the entire house bank, especially since getting 3-4 years is average for high-use Amels. 

Good on the lead acid start battery. 

When troubleshooting the Onan, I believe the weak point is the cable that runs inside from the negative connection post to the battery side of the Negative start solenoid.  The connection post where cables from the battery switches connect is located on the left side, facing, about half way down. I believe you can easily bypass this undersized cable by connecting a jumper from that connection post to the battery side of the negative start solenoid. You could also test the negative start solenoid by connecting that jumper cable to the starter side of the negative solenoid. 1 jumper cable can be used to test two items. If the problem turns out to be the negative start solenoid, don't leave that jumper on the starter side of the solenoid permanently.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, May 26, 2019, 11:24 AM David Vogel <david.vogel@westnet.com.au> wrote:
Greetings all,

Whilst trouble-shooting an unserviceable ONAN (failure to crank), I checked out the health of the 105Ah 800CCA AGM start battery (good), and house-bank (12x105Ah AGMs).  Start and house batteries were all AGM, same model and date-of-install (Sep'16).

All tested OK, with the exception of one battery in the house bank, which failed the State-of-Charge test with an Open-Circuit-Voltage (OCV) of 11.00V (as measured, so no surprises here), unstable; and failed State-of-Health of CCA of 35.0A).
The other battery in the pair containing the failed battery surprisingly tested OK, with SoC 12.72V [92%] and SoH CCA of 642A [91%].

As an interim step, whilst considering broader options ...
... I replaced the good start-battery with a 100Ah/700CCA flooded lead-acid battery; removed the failed AGM battery from the house bank, and replaced it with the 'good' AGM start battery.  The performance of the house battery bank immediately improved, I guess due to the absence of the parasitic load of the failed battery.

However, concerned about the remaining battery in the new pair contained the failed battery, I have been keeping a close eye on the charge volts, current, and temps of all batteries.  24 hours after the swap-out/in, during the second charge cycle, I noted high charging current to the new battery-pair containing the old-start battery.

The smart-charger was ordering ~150Amps from the 175A/24V Leece-Neville (normal for the start-of-charge-cycle) - 5 battery-pairs were accepting about 20Amps each (OK and as expected, at ~20% of the '20-hour rate' of 105Ah), but the 'at risk' pair was accepting 40 to 50Amps.  Temps for the 5 'good' pairs were about 1ºC above ambient and stable; but the temp of the questionable pair was ambient +2ºC and rising.  I stopped the charge cycle after 30 minutes; and isolated the questionable pair from the house-bank by removing the bridging strap between the batteries in the pair.  Shortly after the cessation of the interrupted charge cycle, the temperature of the high-current pair peaked at 36.5ºC (ambient other batteries +2.5ºC).

I am seeking clarification regarding: Is is likely that the remaining battery from the 'old pair' had already suffered irreversible damage (such as an internal short), thereby reducing internal resistance, thereby accepting a higher charge (than the other 'good' battery pairs).

On the basis of temperature alone , I do not think I have suffered temperature-related damage to the old start battery.  However:

Question - is it likely that 30-minutes of charge at twice the maximum recommend bulk/absorption current charge-rate has resulted in permanent damage to the previously 'good' start-battery?

This discussion shared for the learning, and also for the benefit of trouble-shooting by other unfortunates who may in future find themselves in a similar predicament.

Thanks in anticipation ...

David
SM#396/Perigee
On anchor, Brisas, Pacific side of Panama
  Departure for the Marquesas pending the
    return of the ONAN to service

Diagnostic tools: Magneti Marelli BT002 Battery Tester; FLIR TG165 Spot Thermal Camera; Voltcraft VC-595OLED Digital Clamp Multimeter.
Note: the OLED display on the Voltcraft multimeter is impossible to read in direct sunlight, so next time I would choose a model with a different type of display.  Otherwise, this is a great tool, although I do not use the BlueTooth functionality.


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Gary Silver
 

Hi Kent:

You are correct that Nylock nuts a single use items (at least in aircraft applications and I assume in other critical applications).  They are also low heat suitable as nylon deforms at temperature.  I don't know how hot this area gets but perhaps metal locking nuts would be better.  In the aircraft industry metal locking nuts are used in virtually all engine compartment applications.  There are specially coated metal locking nuts that are suitable even on exhaust components. 
Various types such as  https://jlanfranco.com/products/all-metal-locknuts/    or  for aircraft https://catalog.continental-aero.com/viewitems/all-metal-lock-nuts/all-categories-all-metal-lock-nuts-aero-flex

You will have to do some research to find the metric size and grade you need. 

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico 


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

 

Peter,

Probably not. Rudi probably changed them before you bought her. Amel 54 #46 was made several months after #35 and had 10mm Lower Shrouds. 

#46 reported to this group a failure of both lower shrouds which caused rig failure near Easter Island. You can search topics in this group for "Lower Shrouds Main Mast" to see that report. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, May 30, 2019, 7:59 AM Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
My Main Aft Lowers are 12mm- on AMEL 54 #035 - I imagine these are the original.

Peter Forbes
Amel 54
Carango
La Rochelle

On Thu, 30 May 2019 at 13:40, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Arno,

I think we can assume that ACMO did this on instructions from Amel because the larger rigging wire was installed on later production 54s, and obviously ordered that way by Amel.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Thu, May 30, 2019, 6:45 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

On hull 121 the sizes are still the original ones so 8 intermediate, 10 lower.
I have not noticed any issues with these shrouds.
I have more concern with the lower shroud on the mizzen as it is 7 mm and seems to be a bit too stretchy when sailing.
Did the OEM rigger give any reason why they beefed up the main mast rigging?

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


--
Best wishes
Peter Forbes
+44 (0) 7836 209730


Re: The two "sticks" on the genoa top swivel

Gary Wells
 

Mike, take a look at the photos Bill has posted.  There appears to me to be something missing from your swivel where the shackle is attached.  Mine, like the one in the photo, has a spacer fitted to keep that shackle away from the foil.  It would seem to me that if that shackle got pinched or caught sideways it could cause some scratching/damage to the foil up there.



Secondarily, I've tried a soft shackle at that point and even after polishing the pass-through point as best I could, it chafed very quickly so I think the metal shackle is the better idea. 

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Galesville, MD USA


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Peter Forbes
 

My Main Aft Lowers are 12mm- on AMEL 54 #035 - I imagine these are the original.

Peter Forbes
Amel 54
Carango
La Rochelle

On Thu, 30 May 2019 at 13:40, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Arno,

I think we can assume that ACMO did this on instructions from Amel because the larger rigging wire was installed on later production 54s, and obviously ordered that way by Amel.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Thu, May 30, 2019, 6:45 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

On hull 121 the sizes are still the original ones so 8 intermediate, 10 lower.
I have not noticed any issues with these shrouds.
I have more concern with the lower shroud on the mizzen as it is 7 mm and seems to be a bit too stretchy when sailing.
Did the OEM rigger give any reason why they beefed up the main mast rigging?

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


--
Best wishes
Peter Forbes
+44 (0) 7836 209730


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

 

Arno,

I think we can assume that ACMO did this on instructions from Amel because the larger rigging wire was installed on later production 54s, and obviously ordered that way by Amel.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, May 30, 2019, 6:45 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

On hull 121 the sizes are still the original ones so 8 intermediate, 10 lower.
I have not noticed any issues with these shrouds.
I have more concern with the lower shroud on the mizzen as it is 7 mm and seems to be a bit too stretchy when sailing.
Did the OEM rigger give any reason why they beefed up the main mast rigging?

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121



Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Craig Briggs
 

"Unlocks" may be the right name for Paul's nylocks, though!


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

On hull 121 the sizes are still the original ones so 8 intermediate, 10 lower.
I have not noticed any issues with these shrouds.
I have more concern with the lower shroud on the mizzen as it is 7 mm and seems to be a bit too stretchy when sailing.
Did the OEM rigger give any reason why they beefed up the main mast rigging?

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

karkauai
 

Darn spellcheck...I guess unlocks is a bad name for nylocks.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 30, 2019, at 6:25 AM, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

I understand that unlocks should be replaced every time you remove them...at least on critical applications.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 29, 2019, at 4:48 PM, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Might be, no vibration though, I guess the nylock have been on and off a few times and the locking capability get reduced. time to replace the nuts maybe
Paul


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

karkauai
 

I understand that unlocks should be replaced every time you remove them...at least on critical applications.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 29, 2019, at 4:48 PM, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

Might be, no vibration though, I guess the nylock have been on and off a few times and the locking capability get reduced. time to replace the nuts maybe
Paul


Re: Watermaker

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Mark,  That will save me few bucks.     It seems that I am going to have to strip down the pipework to dislodge the present blockage. Thankfully, the tank is still filling and the membranes are only two seasons old so I know the quality is good.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Lavrion Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...>
Sent: 28 May 2019 16:15
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Watermaker
 

Hi Ian and Judy,

 

The tap is available in most hardware stores for under $5

 

watermaker tap 2.jpg

 

watermaker tap 1.jpg

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 12:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Watermaker

 

Hi all,

 

 We have the 60 lph Dessalator which has nearly 3,200 hours on it in 19 years. Really pleased with its performance.

 However, one weakness is the chrome tap on the control board, because its cock depends on a rubber washer which perishes too easily and I haven't found a way to replace the washer so have had to buy new taps from Dessalator. I think we are now on our fourth.

 

 We use the tap regularly  to test the quality of the water with a handheld gadget.

 

What has now happened is that the pipe to the tap has become blocked, so that even with a new tap fitted no water comes out when the tap is opened.

 

When you switch off the w/m , if you leave the tap open you will hear a sucking noise as air is sucked into the tap.  I think what must have happened is that when the last washer perished a piece of the washer broke off and was sucked into the pipe and now blocks is.

 

I have tried blowing and sucking but to no avail. The next step would be to insert a wire very gently to see if I can dislodge the obstruction, but I am reluctant to do this is there is a safer way.

 

Has anyone else had this problem ? Any solutions ?

 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Lavrion, Greece


Re: The two "sticks" on the genoa top swivel

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike,

this week I fitted a new "pencil". I thought I would have to open up one or other of the ends of the track to get it in. It was too tight to enter where the track widens for the sail entry. I had looked at it and discarded the idea of getting it in there. Paul Smith (known to his friends as Buddha) of NZ Yacht Services Opua looked at the problem for me. He was fiddling with it in that widened slot area and agreed it was too tight. Then when my back was turned he gave it a light sharp blow with an alloy hammer. Bingo. Done. Well done Paul, saved potentially hours of work. I mention this as an advisory to the many I am sure need to do this. Then it was a simple matter with the swivel down to remove the tongue and re enter it into the pencil. I believe many will find the tongue is worn through and needs replacing so it would be wise to have both on hand when the job is undertaken. Amel have both parts available.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl. 

On 23 May 2019 at 04:34 SV Trilogy <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thank you, Danny! We will definitely take a close look at the swivel regarding the tongue and nylon pencil. We very much appreciate the specialty Amel knowledge here!

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 2:31 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS < simms@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

a while back I posted a photo of a tongue that goes through the inner of the swivel and into the slot in the foil. This locates the center and prevents the scratching you mention. This tongue often wears through. A number of SM owners have found this. There is one important feature, which if missing allows this wear to occur. This is a nylon "pencil" that sits in the foil with a mating slot in it for this tongue. I believe this "pencil" is often lost when non Amel riggers are doing work. The tongue is secured by two grub screws easily accessed. I suggest you check for the tongue and the nylon pencil. I am picking you will find both missing.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 20 May 2019 at 03:14 SV Trilogy <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks everyone for the informative responses on this topic. We're having a new set of horns fabricated and plan to cover them with some hose material. Anything one can do to reduce halyard wraps, cuts, jams, etc. is certainly worthwhile.

On a side note, while up at the masthead I noticed the foil/extrusion was heavily scratched around it's circumference for several inches right where the top swivel would sit. Perhaps there's an issue with our top swivel and it should be taken apart and serviced? Although while at deck level it spins easily and sounds very smooth. Or maybe the threads on the one horn we had up there were too long and made contact with the foil while furling? Just wondering if anyone has ever seen anything similar on their boat. Sorry no photo at the moment but I'll try and get one.

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama


On Mon, 13 May 2019, 08:05 Gary Wells, < gary@...> wrote:
A short piece of fuel line and some contact cement make good "caps" for those 'horns'.
Having experienced a halyard wrap up there once, I wouldn't consider running without them.
If you are doing regular maintenance on the swivel then it's far less likely the horns would touch the mast, but if the swivel jams even slightly the horns are the best defense against getting the halyard wrapped and broken at the masthead.  
Can't really explain how I discovered this.  :)

Gary W.
SM 209, "Adagio"
Beaufort, NC USA

 

 

 

 



--
Mike & Hannah
SVTrilogy


Re: Genoa Fair Leads

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ken, Loved the video. However NSR did not need to cut the track. Had they taken the screws out of the stanchion just forward of the track end they could have easily pushed it sideways to allow the car to be removed. I share this information for others who may need to do this.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 07:10 Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@ksa.com> wrote:


Hello,

I had to do this, and filmed it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_XB5qfptqQ

Ken Powers
Aquarius SM2K #262


On 5/25/19, Capt. Steve Bode <whatsup@svintention.com> wrote:
Hey, Group.

What's the latest best answer on replacing the Genoa Fair Leads? My springs
are broken, one wheel is chipped. Tried taking it apart, but can't figure
out how to get the pin out of the center once the eye bolts are removed. Is
that center bar screwed in? At $750 a piece online, I'm not jazzed about
replacing the whole car.
Replacement car without extra hardware needed to adapt to Amel lead system:
https://allpa-marine.com/antal-aluminum-stainless-steel-genua-maxi-car-40x8-with-sliding-inserts-172x60x166mm-lxwxh-weight-1-94kg-swl-safe-working-load-4800kg.html

Tags: Genoa Fair Lead, Genoa Track, Jib Car Lead, Jib fairlead, Genoa
Fairlead, Foresail Track


*Steve Bode, Captain of Sailing Vessel Intention*
Currently Drydocked at ANT Yat Servis
Bodrum Marina Teknik Servisler
Neyzen Tevfik Cad. No. 5
48400 Bodrum, Mulga, Turkiye

Amel Super Maramu #117 (1994)
svIntention.com <http://svintention.com/> Facebook.com/svIntention
<http://facebook.com/svIntention> YouTube.com/SailingVesselIntention
<http://youtube.com/SailingVesselIntention>
+1 415-710-6659 voice/text/whatsapp





Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

 

Amel 54 owners,

Many of you are considering new standing rigging.
 
It has come to my attention that sometime between 2009 and 2010 Amel installed larger size Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds on Amel 54s. I am not sure at which hull number the change took place, but I know that the smaller shrouds were still being used from the first Amel 54 to hull 117 (2009); and I know that the larger shrouds were installed on hull 162 (2010). Between these two hull numbers, Amel increased the wire size, first on the Lower and later on both the Lower and Intermediate shrouds. 
 
   Amel 54 Mainmast Shrouds latest information (French):
   Top Shroud (Galhaubans) 12mm (no change)
   Intermediate Shroud (Inters) 10mm (changed from 8mm)
   Lower Shroud (Bas Haubans AR) 12mm (changed from 10mm)
 
ACMO, Amel's OEM standing rigging supplier, currently ships the larger Lower and Intermediate shrouds when they receive orders for either these shrouds separately, or a complete standing rigging kit. If you have already installed new rigging and you or your rigger ordered the rigging from ACMO, you are likely fine. If the rigging was not made by ACMO, chances are your new wire is the same size as the wire you had. This may be a problem for you.

Obviously, you will need to inform any rigger you use of this change. This week I have informed several riggers that I regularly contact, 

As with some information I share with the Amel Yacht Owners Group, my information is not necessarily officially from Amel. I do not speak for Amel. This is the case with this Amel 54 rigging wire size change. Because some of you are currently in the process of changing rigging, I am posting what I know today. If I learn more about this subject, I will update you here.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Paul Osterberg
 

Might be, no vibration though, I guess the nylock have been on and off a few times and the locking capability get reduced. time to replace the nuts maybe
Paul


Re: Furling motor brushes

 

I thought the brush was slightly smaller than the channel.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 29, 2019, 3:07 PM Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I'm not quite sure what you mean -- the Eurton brushes are larger than the ones that Amel has in stock. The Eurton brushes fit very well in the keyway...it's a tight fit, and they still go in smoothly. I don't think jamming will be an issue, if that was your concern.

We will report back after a few months with how the brushes held up.

Best,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 2:32 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: Furling motor brushes

Kelly Ran
 

Hi Bill,

I'm not quite sure what you mean -- the Eurton brushes are larger than the ones that Amel has in stock. The Eurton brushes fit very well in the keyway...it's a tight fit, and they still go in smoothly. I don't think jamming will be an issue, if that was your concern.

We will report back after a few months with how the brushes held up.

Best,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 2:32 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

 

Or, more likely, an allignment issue. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 29, 2019, 2:36 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Paul,

I agree with Craig, nylocs coming loose is unusual. I would check the rubber bushes. You may have metal on metal going on in there.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 22:47 "Craig Briggs via Groups.Io" <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Paul, 
Surprising the nylocs loosened - maybe nylocs AND locktite with a little bubble gum ;-)
Btw, for leverage when tightening, I use a long screwdriver under the coupling and over one of the bolts on the opposite side of the one I'm tightening. Have also used a chain wrench. Left the transmission in gear just to stabilize it a bit, but took most of the force with the screwdriver.
Don't recall the exact bolt size, but you can google the torque - M8 Class 10.9 for example is 40 Nm. 
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor 


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Paul,

I agree with Craig, nylocs coming loose is unusual. I would check the rubber bushes. You may have metal on metal going on in there.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 22:47 "Craig Briggs via Groups.Io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Paul, 
Surprising the nylocs loosened - maybe nylocs AND locktite with a little bubble gum ;-)
Btw, for leverage when tightening, I use a long screwdriver under the coupling and over one of the bolts on the opposite side of the one I'm tightening. Have also used a chain wrench. Left the transmission in gear just to stabilize it a bit, but took most of the force with the screwdriver.
Don't recall the exact bolt size, but you can google the torque - M8 Class 10.9 for example is 40 Nm. 
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor 

14661 - 14680 of 60615