Date   
Re: Stuffing box drainage path

Gary Wells
 

My bow thruster will not leak to an exit to the bilge.  It will be stopped at the forward head where it must be dealt with manually.  If you have a situation where seawater has a direct path to the the engine room bilge (other than the anchor locker), I would say that it's not original (or I didn't read your statement correctly). ..  

Having a water alarm next to the rudder quadrant is a great idea.  I just have to hoist the bed once a month while we're parked, once a day while we are underway.

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Maryland, USA



Re: Watermaker

michael winand
 

Thanks for sharing your own methods. I am going to install a valved manifold to allow me to close off different water circuits. Thinking of additional point for the flushing hose.

On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 at 1:47 am, rossirossix4
<rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:
Hi Davi,
Thanks for asking.  We don't flush engine, generator, etc after every use.  When we do flush things in fresh water depends.  For example today we are at Renaissance Marine (very nice, BTW) in Aruba and are here for 6 nights.  After we arrived we flushed out 1)Yanmar, 2)Anchor Wash Pump, 3 and 4)both toilet pumps and circuits-we use fresh water flush when we have dock water and 5)generator was already flushed 6) AC all 3 loops 7) the distribution manifold which is flushed end to end along with the other items and 8) the strainer itself. 

Fresh water can 1)reduce corrosion which is higher for salt water than fresh water 2) reduce galvanic action by minimizing the salt water connection to AC and feed pumps, etc or dissimilar metals 3)minimize and stop--even kill marine growth and 4)help to dissolve deposits that might be forming--RO water in particular is good at this, and 5) reduce rubber hose odor and aging. 

Our Yanmar for example has the following items that are cooled directly by salt water--1)transmission cooler, 2) turbo intercooler, 3) oil cooler 4)coolant loop and 5) raw water pump and impeller and 6)exhaust elbow and exhaust hoses. 

Is it necessary?  Decide for yourself.  I do know that Amel owners  use Barnacle Buster and other harsh products because of overheating problems, there have been leaks from the oil cooler into salt water necessitating a oil cooler replacement, generator impellers fail and their salt water pump faces have to be sanded, end caps for generator heat exchangers corrode, feed pumps have needed rebuilds, and water manifolds have corroded.  Also, owners have needed to clear marine growth from the manifold and the strainer.  A lot of this stuff is shown in Bill's manual.  In fact if you have any doubts about the impact of salt water just thumb through that manual.

Like other owners with solar and those with wind chargers, or both....we only run the generator infrequently, usually to make water and we have about 5 days to a week of time on average between runs--but at anchorages we have gone as long as 6 weeks before needing to run our generator.   We have enough solar to run our HW heater 30 minutes and still top off our batteries to float.  We usually run our clothes washer while making water but it can also be powered by our inverter underway when we run our engine.  Just de-anchoring and departing an anchorage can require a 30 minute engine run and the fast cycle on our Thompson takes 30 minutes.  We use the standard yellow Xantrex 1800 watt pure sine inverter.

Not trying to brag about our solar capacity, but pointing out that many owners can have long periods of non-use of the generator when anchoring, and of course at a marina.

Procedure--Flushing systems with fresh water is very quick and easy to do.  It sounds involved when describing or discussing it but it is super-simple and quick.  We just close the ball valve inlet for the strainer, open the cover (this is done anyway to check strainer after a trip or generator use) start the device and use a hose or jug or both if your hose can't keep up. .  If you want to make sure you have removed most salt water from the strainer and inlet you can pull fresh water through the toilets or anchor wash before starting and flushing the generator.  Usually we have enough jug water (we have 3-8 litre jugs) to do the entire process.  Good shore pressure water lets you do it with just hose alone....at anchor you can use a combo of cockpit shower hose and jugs but usually we just pour water into the top of the strainer using a jug....easy to keep up and to avoid over filling.  Flushing the generator is a single person operation.  Flushing the engine, toilets, AC and anchor wash is best done by people.

I am sure that it can be done safely, but IMHO there are some risks to plumbing-in a fixture--pressurized water can be forced through the salt water cooling path into the lift mufflers which will fill and then water will climb to to the top of the exhaust loop.  Because our exhaust loops are up high, higher than the exhaust elbows of our generators and diesels, there is a risk of backflooding those.  I'm not saying that a plumbed in approach is wrong, but I would pay attention to design and very close attention to operation--we just use the open strainer top method. It is also possible to supply the water from the 3 way flush valve for your watermaker but we just use hose and/or jugs.

A final note, if you are needing to replace an impeller or do any other work on a salt water circuit, run fresh water through it first.  The water you spill over other things in your engine room will be fresh rather than salt.

Bob and Suzanne, SM KAIMI
Aruba

Re: ONAN part list

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,

 

It is in the FILES section under Onan: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Onan%20Genset%20Information/Onam%20Parts%20Catalog%20for%20MDKAL%20%28Detailed%29.pdf

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alex Ramseyer
Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:51 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] ONAN part list

 

Hi all,
I've seen a ONAN part list on this forum very recently, but for some reason can't find it with the search function.
Anyone willing to share that again?
Thanks a lot,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54/no15

ONAN part list

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi all,
I've seen a ONAN part list on this forum very recently, but for some reason can't find it with the search function.
Anyone willing to share that again?
Thanks a lot,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54/no15

Re: Watermaker

rossirossix4
 

Hi Davi,
Thanks for asking.  We don't flush engine, generator, etc after every use.  When we do flush things in fresh water depends.  For example today we are at Renaissance Marine (very nice, BTW) in Aruba and are here for 6 nights.  After we arrived we flushed out 1)Yanmar, 2)Anchor Wash Pump, 3 and 4)both toilet pumps and circuits-we use fresh water flush when we have dock water and 5)generator was already flushed 6) AC all 3 loops 7) the distribution manifold which is flushed end to end along with the other items and 8) the strainer itself. 

Fresh water can 1)reduce corrosion which is higher for salt water than fresh water 2) reduce galvanic action by minimizing the salt water connection to AC and feed pumps, etc or dissimilar metals 3)minimize and stop--even kill marine growth and 4)help to dissolve deposits that might be forming--RO water in particular is good at this, and 5) reduce rubber hose odor and aging. 

Our Yanmar for example has the following items that are cooled directly by salt water--1)transmission cooler, 2) turbo intercooler, 3) oil cooler 4)coolant loop and 5) raw water pump and impeller and 6)exhaust elbow and exhaust hoses. 

Is it necessary?  Decide for yourself.  I do know that Amel owners  use Barnacle Buster and other harsh products because of overheating problems, there have been leaks from the oil cooler into salt water necessitating a oil cooler replacement, generator impellers fail and their salt water pump faces have to be sanded, end caps for generator heat exchangers corrode, feed pumps have needed rebuilds, and water manifolds have corroded.  Also, owners have needed to clear marine growth from the manifold and the strainer.  A lot of this stuff is shown in Bill's manual.  In fact if you have any doubts about the impact of salt water just thumb through that manual.

Like other owners with solar and those with wind chargers, or both....we only run the generator infrequently, usually to make water and we have about 5 days to a week of time on average between runs--but at anchorages we have gone as long as 6 weeks before needing to run our generator.   We have enough solar to run our HW heater 30 minutes and still top off our batteries to float.  We usually run our clothes washer while making water but it can also be powered by our inverter underway when we run our engine.  Just de-anchoring and departing an anchorage can require a 30 minute engine run and the fast cycle on our Thompson takes 30 minutes.  We use the standard yellow Xantrex 1800 watt pure sine inverter.

Not trying to brag about our solar capacity, but pointing out that many owners can have long periods of non-use of the generator when anchoring, and of course at a marina.

Procedure--Flushing systems with fresh water is very quick and easy to do.  It sounds involved when describing or discussing it but it is super-simple and quick.  We just close the ball valve inlet for the strainer, open the cover (this is done anyway to check strainer after a trip or generator use) start the device and use a hose or jug or both if your hose can't keep up. .  If you want to make sure you have removed most salt water from the strainer and inlet you can pull fresh water through the toilets or anchor wash before starting and flushing the generator.  Usually we have enough jug water (we have 3-8 litre jugs) to do the entire process.  Good shore pressure water lets you do it with just hose alone....at anchor you can use a combo of cockpit shower hose and jugs but usually we just pour water into the top of the strainer using a jug....easy to keep up and to avoid over filling.  Flushing the generator is a single person operation.  Flushing the engine, toilets, AC and anchor wash is best done by people.

I am sure that it can be done safely, but IMHO there are some risks to plumbing-in a fixture--pressurized water can be forced through the salt water cooling path into the lift mufflers which will fill and then water will climb to to the top of the exhaust loop.  Because our exhaust loops are up high, higher than the exhaust elbows of our generators and diesels, there is a risk of backflooding those.  I'm not saying that a plumbed in approach is wrong, but I would pay attention to design and very close attention to operation--we just use the open strainer top method. It is also possible to supply the water from the 3 way flush valve for your watermaker but we just use hose and/or jugs.

A final note, if you are needing to replace an impeller or do any other work on a salt water circuit, run fresh water through it first.  The water you spill over other things in your engine room will be fresh rather than salt.

Bob and Suzanne, SM KAIMI
Aruba

Re: Salon Light Fixtures

Alan Grayson
 

Hey Paul, if you do manage to order some small quantity I wouldn't mind an order of 4 as I have 2 lights that are out. The rockers are broken so I'd like 4 of the rockers and 4 switches just in case.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai  SM 406
Hampton, Virginia
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Paul Stascavage via Groups.Io <pstas2003@...>
Sent: Thursday, 6 June 2019 1:08:35 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Salon Light Fixtures
 
Bill and Mark.

Thanks very much for the information and taking the time.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas




Re: Salon Light Fixtures

Paul Stascavage
 

Bill and Mark.

Thanks very much for the information and taking the time.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas

Re: electrical motor overhaul - Dessalator

 

You should be fine if it is either the 24VDC or the 230VAC motor. Bearings are metric worldwide. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019, 6:30 PM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
My 24V Duo D100 watermaker  motor needs an overhaul.  I'm currently in the U.S. and my question is, do I have to  expect difficulties if it needs parts, given this is a European product? Can I go to any electrical motor shop to get the job done? Thanks for your advice.
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
soon in the Chesapeake 

Re: Watermaker

Alan Leslie
 

Once the watermarked is running in the green zone and producing water, if you back the pressure off, open the tap and then increase the pressure, water will come out of the tap. Turn the tap off and the watermarker runs normally.  We do this for water sample testing with a hand held tds meter 
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Microwave - general comments

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Just as a semi-random aside, when the microwave that came with Wake finally gave up the ghost, we replaced it with several nice deep baskets for various veggies and sauces. We realized we always cooked pretty much the amount needed, and if in desperate times, reheating in a pot or some small, thin-walled metal tiffins in the oven actually worked fast and great. Super nice to have the extra storage space...

Re: Microwave - general comments

Stefano Biffi
 

Thanks David, I’ll ck in internet what’s available. I hope to find same size for the attachment

Stefano
N’EVEREST Super Maramu 185
Olbia Sardinia Italy

Il giorno 5 giu 2019, alle ore 09:54, David Vogel <david.vogel@...> ha scritto:




Greetings Stefano,

When we ‘updated’ the unit on-board when we purchased, we replaced it with an LG brand microwave with fan-forced resistive heater, but the microwave part of it was not able to run on the inverter. And it was unwise to use the conventional / fan-forced oven side of things, because the clearance around the unit were not big enough to provide adequate airflow, and the woodwork on the right-hand-side of the unit (plus behind), got uncomfortably hot. So we never used it in conventional/fan-forced mode. It was a waste of money to pay for the extra functionality. And then we accidentally fried it when we ran it for too long on 60Hz shore-power – fine for 60 seconds for coffee, but not 12 minutes for rice.

We reverted to a ‘basic’ microwave-only unit from Panasonic, which as it’s own internal inverter, and it works fine on the boat’s inverter. Model: NN-ST651W, although we would have preferred the NN-ST651B (B for black) model , which is what we thought we’d ordered.

David&Leanne
Perigee, SM#396, Panama

On 3/6/19, 5:14 am, "Stefano Biffi" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of cptbiffi@...> wrote:

Dear all, after 20 years my microwave ARTHUR MARTIN ELECTROLUX MG2012 gave up. Thanks to excellent service I need to find a new one. Any suggestion for a quality model available in Europe?
Ciao

Stefano
N’EVEREST Super Maramu 185
Italy









electrical motor overhaul - Dessalator

Alexander Ramseyer
 

My 24V Duo D100 watermaker  motor needs an overhaul.  I'm currently in the U.S. and my question is, do I have to  expect difficulties if it needs parts, given this is a European product? Can I go to any electrical motor shop to get the job done? Thanks for your advice.
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
soon in the Chesapeake 

Re: Stuffing box drainage path

Mark Erdos
 

We installed a water sensor alarm in this area.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2019 5:34 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Stuffing box drainage path

 

As I write this, I want to be clear that a) my stuffing box is dry thanks to copying Eric Freedman's stuffing box extension idea and b) I'm not contemplating changing anything on my boat (SM2K 422). 

My question is more of a "why is it designed this way" question. 

There are a handful of normal paths for water to enter the boat. They all lead to the bilge or out of the boat directly. Chain locker and bow thruster....plumbed to bilge. Main mast furler wire loop.....drains in bow shower. Cockpit....to the scuppers.....but the stuffing box area just overflows into the starboard lower cubby in aft and all over floor. This, when that area would have been a downhill run under bed and into aft shower. Seemingly consistent with the other areas if it drained that way.

I suspect that the designers felt it was important to spot the first gallon of stuffing box leakage by making it obvious, but bow thruster and chain locker water buildup are arguably also important. 

As I said, I would never change something like this. Just wanted to understand more about the design theory.

Stuffing box drainage path

Thomas Kleman
 

As I write this, I want to be clear that a) my stuffing box is dry thanks to copying Eric Freedman's stuffing box extension idea and b) I'm not contemplating changing anything on my boat (SM2K 422). 

My question is more of a "why is it designed this way" question. 

There are a handful of normal paths for water to enter the boat. They all lead to the bilge or out of the boat directly. Chain locker and bow thruster....plumbed to bilge. Main mast furler wire loop.....drains in bow shower. Cockpit....to the scuppers.....but the stuffing box area just overflows into the starboard lower cubby in aft and all over floor. This, when that area would have been a downhill run under bed and into aft shower. Seemingly consistent with the other areas if it drained that way.

I suspect that the designers felt it was important to spot the first gallon of stuffing box leakage by making it obvious, but bow thruster and chain locker water buildup are arguably also important. 

As I said, I would never change something like this. Just wanted to understand more about the design theory.

Re: Salon Light Fixtures

Mark Pitt
 

Hi Paul,

I bought some from here 

https://www.bjb.com/en/Products/Lighting-Components/More-Components/Switches/Rocker-switches/Single-Pole-Snap-in-mounting/5273/43.409.U314


This site is in Germany. Just Google “43.409 switch” and you might find them elsewhere.


  Best regards,


Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, SM #419, Sint Maarten 



On Jun 5, 2019, at 2:07 PM, Paul Stascavage via Groups.Io <pstas2003@...> wrote:

Good day fellow Amelians,

Does anyone know where I can purchase new fixtures or replacement switches for the salon lights in the attached photos?

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Cruising Bahamas

www.RitaKathryn.com <SalonCeilingFixture_Switch_.png><SalonCeilingFixture_RearView_.JPG>

Re: Salon Light Fixtures

 

Paul,

The switch is made by: www.bjb.com
There are two pieces to the switch

An email contact is Spence, Crystall (BJB Electric) <Crystall.Spence@...>

The above contact says that they have 1,000 piece minimum order, but several of us were able to get a "Sample Order" of about 10-20 pieces. Dan Carlson probably has more than he needs in his spares.

I hope that this helps.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 1:07 PM Paul Stascavage via Groups.Io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good day fellow Amelians,

Does anyone know where I can purchase new fixtures or replacement switches for the salon lights in the attached photos?

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Cruising Bahamas

www.RitaKathryn.com

Re: Watermaker

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Craig;

We do all systems flush when decommissioning for Winter. About 10 minutes per individual system. Anchor wash, AC, refrigeration, generator and engine.

We just serviced the heat exchanger on both the generator and engine, and rhe after cooler on the engine after 10 years and they were in pretty good condition and would have probably not needed service for another 5 years..

I would consider daily fresh water flush excessive an unnecessary for our Maintenace procedures.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jun 5, 2019, at 5:53 PM, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Bob and Suzanne,
    Just out of curiosity, what's your procedure for flushing your engines' (main & generator) sea water circuits after use? I know some people swear by it, but it seems quite a chore if you're doing it, say, twice a day for the generator and another time for the propulsion engine. Do you, perhaps, have a valve arrangement so you can switch quickly from sea water to fresh?
    I only flush mine if I'm decommissioning the boat on the hard. I remove the intake hose from the strainer, stick that in a bucket of fresh water and run the engine until the water is gone, adding antifreeze if in northern climate.
Craig - SN68 Sangaris

Salon Light Fixtures

Paul Stascavage
 

Good day fellow Amelians,

Does anyone know where I can purchase new fixtures or replacement switches for the salon lights in the attached photos?

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Cruising Bahamas

www.RitaKathryn.com

Re: Watermaker

david bruce
 

Hi Craig, 

 On Liesse we have a simple T ball valve with a hose bib, on the intake side of the raw water inlet.  Super easy to connect a hose and run either  the engine or genset on the hard as long as needed.  I also only flush on decommissioning but if one were so inclined it would be easy enough to run a fresh water hose from the boats tank to flush, but I have enough trouble keeping up with all the mandatory maintenance as it is to consider doing this routinely on shutdown, although in an ideal world…..

Best, Dave

Liesse SN006


On May 28, 2019, at 9:15 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Ian and Judy,
 
The tap is available in most hardware stores for under $5
 
<image001.jpg>
 
<image002.jpg>
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Panama
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 12:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Watermaker
 
Hi all,
 
 We have the 60 lph Dessalator which has nearly 3,200 hours on it in 19 years. Really pleased with its performance.
 However, one weakness is the chrome tap on the control board, because its cock depends on a rubber washer which perishes too easily and I haven't found a way to replace the washer so have had to buy new taps from Dessalator. I think we are now on our fourth.
 
 We use the tap regularly  to test the quality of the water with a handheld gadget.
 
What has now happened is that the pipe to the tap has become blocked, so that even with a new tap fitted no water comes out when the tap is opened.
 
When you switch off the w/m , if you leave the tap open you will hear a sucking noise as air is sucked into the tap.  I think what must have happened is that when the last washer perished a piece of the washer broke off and was sucked into the pipe and now blocks is.
 
I have tried blowing and sucking but to no avail. The next step would be to insert a wire very gently to see if I can dislodge the obstruction, but I am reluctant to do this is there is a safer way.
 
Has anyone else had this problem ? Any solutions ?
 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Lavrion, Greece


Re: Watermaker

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Bob and Suzanne,
    Just out of curiosity, what's your procedure for flushing your engines' (main & generator) sea water circuits after use? I know some people swear by it, but it seems quite a chore if you're doing it, say, twice a day for the generator and another time for the propulsion engine. Do you, perhaps, have a valve arrangement so you can switch quickly from sea water to fresh?
    I only flush mine if I'm decommissioning the boat on the hard. I remove the intake hose from the strainer, stick that in a bucket of fresh water and run the engine until the water is gone, adding antifreeze if in northern climate.
Craig - SN68 Sangaris