Date   

Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

The phone number for Pat Wagner the general manager of Dessalator is 0033 493 950455. He speaks english and is very helpful
regards
Richard on SM 209

--- On Wed, 1/7/09, Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@tin.it> wrote:

From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@tin.it>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 7, 2009, 7:34 AM

















Hi Gary and thanks to all for info and
suggestions,

others news :

-the fun of LP pump works and the pump too : the water
flows out before the HP pomp starts.

-my electrical box is different from yours, it is a
previous model, I think, more simple.

At the moment it may be a problem of gauge and I'll
check it as you told me in detail. Thanks so much !

Anyway I have time , if necessary, to order it to Olivier
when I'll be back at home ( VENEZIA, IT ) next summer.
Now I'm in Venezuela sailing tomorrow to Cuba.

This group is GREAT !

All the best and..vento in poppa.

Giovanni

EUTIKIA SM2K 428



----- Original Message -----

From: amelliahona

To: amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups. com

Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 3:11 PM

Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator



Hi Giovanni:



Regarding your post : " At the start the low press
gauge doesn't mark green and remains on red, but after 2


minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible to
regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No

allarm. It seams all working properly, also the Low
P."



To trouble shoot this problem I suggest the following:



1. While you are in the engine room next to the low
pressure pump, have your

assistant start the watermaker. After approximately 20
seconds you should hear

the low pressure pump start. Approximately 90 seconds
later you will hear the

high pressure pump start.



2. Once the low pressure pump starts (if it does) and prior
to the high pressure pump starting, look over

the side of the boat and see if sea water is flowing out
the thru hole on the port side.



If the low pressure pump fails to start it could be due
to:



A. Tripped circuit breaker for the BP pump (located in the
electrical box on the back

side of the water maker which is accessible from the port
lazerette , see my water maker picture folder)

or

B. Bad control relay on the the circuit board in the
electrical box (again, see the photos in the Watermaker

Service Folder)

C. Bad ganged relay in the electrical box.



You can manually set the ganged relay, thus bypassing the
control relay, by using the small lever on the

front of the ganged relay (see Photos). If manually
setting the ganged relay with its lever causes the low

pressure pump to run, then the control relay or its
circuitry is bad. Write back for instructions on how to

wire a manual override like Richard suggested.



If the BP pump Circuit Breaker is ok and the ganged relay
clicks and the pump doesn't run then you have

a bad pump (most likely)



If the pump runs, you have sea water out the side of the
boat, but you still don't show feed water pressure

at the panel then you have a faulty gauge.



Check to see if the gauge is leaking or the fluid in it is
discolored or cloudy. You can obtain a new gauge

from Amel by emailing Olivier Beaute at sav at amel dot
fr , as I have done so. Dont' bother trying to have

Dessalator ship directly, it is a nightmare. They
don't have any expertise in shipping or handling
purchases

internationally.



The gauge is removed by removing the three screws on the
faceplace, then unscrewing the gauge

from the rear of the panel using a wrench. The gauge
merely screws into a brass manifold. These

are typical European non-NPT (National Pipe Thread)
threads. That is they are not tapered pipe

threads and therefore are difficult to seal. When
installing the new gauge you will need to seal the

threads with something, 3M5200 does NOT work.



Hope this helps, let us know what your finding are.



Gary Amel SM Hull # 335



------------ --------- --------- --------- ---------
--------- -



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Controllato da AVG - http://www.avg. com

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Data di rilascio: 05/01/2009 9.44



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






























Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Dave_Benjamin
 

Jean,

I think the Yanmar is better engineered in some respects, which explains the seemingly lighter construction. The Yanmar engines seem to hold up quite well. You expressed the opinion that the Yanmar was not originally designed for marine use. I have heard just the opposite, that Yanmar was designed specifically for marine use whereas most other engines are simply converted tractor or truck engines.

Here on the US west coast the Yanmar engines seem to have a better reputation than Volvo. Personally I am grateful that the previous owner of our Maramu repowered with a 75hp Yanmar turbodiesel.

--- On Wed, 1/7/09, Jean Boucharlat <jean.boucharlat@orange.fr> wrote:
From: Jean Boucharlat <jean.boucharlat@orange.fr>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re:Engine replace
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 7, 2009, 1:14 AM











I beg to disagree… !



Yanmar is certainly not a bad engine but, during a one week hands-on Diesel

training course a couple years back, I had the opportunity to take apart and

rebuild both the Volvo TMD 22 and the Yanmar and it was quite obvious that

the Yanmar was much more lightly built than the Volvo. From the block itself

to the gudgeons holding it and any other parts, the Yanmar looked flimsy

once dismantled.



This being said I am certain that Yanmar, a competent company, did a good

job of designing and building this engine but it wasn’t meant originally for

marine use. It’s a car or light truck engine adapted for marine use.



As to the Volvo, in fact, there isn’t much Volvo in it as the block is

indeed an original Perkins block built in Japan by Kubota! But it’s, in my

opinion and experience, a good and reliable engine.



Now, Amel didn’t change over to Yanmar because of quality issues with Volvo,

they changed because of the lack of flexibility of Volvo in accommodating

special requests from Amel. In particular, a few years ago, they had a

problem getting Volvo to supply them with a rather unusual part, the small

caps used to plug the foundry holes (in French, my mother tongue, “trou de

fonderie”) that you find on the sides of the engine block. This was not very

surprising as the foundry work is done in Japan, probably by a subcontractor

of Kubota.



You may also know that Amel has gone back to Volvo for their 54.



I entirely agree, though, that Volvo parts are indeed outrageously

expensive.



Jean Boucharlat



Formerly SM 232 Satchimi



N.B. I’m not a Volvo employee, nor agent, nor in anyway related to Yanmar

and/or Volvo! Just a customer.



From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of jlmertz@free. fr

Sent: mercredi 7 janvier 2009 08:40

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace



*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!

TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO

expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o

*

_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and

injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,

both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.



JLM

Cottonbay

SM316

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -



Jorge Zlatar a écrit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

jlmertz@free.fr <jlmertz@...>
 

YES he is, I know it,
but the boat is in Barcelona (and he is not from volo..).....
------------------------------------------------------------------------


Rene DANIEL a Ă©crit :

If you are in Grenoble, you have a very good technicien in diesel pomp,
engine.
Ste SAVIN in St Martin d'Heres

90 av Gabriel PĂ©ri 38400 SAINT MARTIN D'HERES

* *04 76 42 67 11*
* fax : *04 76 42 65 81*
* *09 61 51 30 04*

Best regards

RD

jlmertz@free.fr <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr> a Ă©crit :

I am sorry but I am not happy with my Volo TMD22 (Perkins) engine

_In the first hand *the price* of :_

* the engine,
* the parts :
o tubo is made by GARRETT cost for a NEW *380EUR *by VOLVO
_*1 500*_EUR....
o Heat exchanger ref 861581 4 148,15EUR !!!!!
o Heat exchanger _eleme _ref 861607 1 785,65 EUR !!!!!!!
o etc...
* service costs .... etc.

_*are ANOMALY HEIGHT *_

*_On the second hand :_*

* service is for me bad :
o I asked Volvo in Grenoble to have the technical manual they
refused ....
o I asked Volvo the procedure to adjust the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer
o I asked Volvo the reference of the the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer

* Technical support with me experience is not at a NORMAL level :
o Change of parts that are good (and if you see there price
you can understand)
o *_No efficient technical support_*
o etc...

_*Be sure, I NEVER buy a boat with a VOLVO in *_

CB
----------------------------------------------------------
Jean Boucharlat a Ă©crit :

I beg to disagree... !

Yanmar is certainly not a bad engine but, during a one week hands-on
Diesel
training course a couple years back, I had the opportunity to take
apart and
rebuild both the Volvo TMD 22 and the Yanmar and it was quite
obvious that
the Yanmar was much more lightly built than the Volvo. From the block
itself
to the gudgeons holding it and any other parts, the Yanmar looked
flimsy
once dismantled.

This being said I am certain that Yanmar, a competent company, did a
good
job of designing and building this engine but it wasn't meant
originally for
marine use. It's a car or light truck engine adapted for marine use.

As to the Volvo, in fact, there isn't much Volvo in it as the block is
indeed an original Perkins block built in Japan by Kubota! But it's,
in my
opinion and experience, a good and reliable engine.

Now, Amel didn't change over to Yanmar because of quality issues with
Volvo,
they changed because of the lack of flexibility of Volvo in
accommodating
special requests from Amel. In particular, a few years ago, they had a
problem getting Volvo to supply them with a rather unusual part, the
small
caps used to plug the foundry holes (in French, my mother tongue,
"trou de
fonderie") that you find on the sides of the engine block. This was
not very
surprising as the foundry work is done in Japan, probably by a
subcontractor
of Kubota.

You may also know that Amel has gone back to Volvo for their 54.

I entirely agree, though, that Volvo parts are indeed outrageously
expensive.

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232 Satchimi

N.B. I'm not a Volvo employee, nor agent, nor in anyway related to
Yanmar
and/or Volvo! Just a customer.

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
jlmertz@free.fr <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr>
<mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr> <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr>
Sent: mercredi 7 janvier 2009 08:40
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!
TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO
expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o
*
_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and
injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,
both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.

JLM
Cottonbay
SM316
----------------------------------------------------------

Jorge Zlatar a Ă©crit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000
hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right
choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Rene DANIEL <rene.daniel@...>
 

If you are in Grenoble, you have a very good technicien in diesel pomp, engine.
Ste SAVIN in St Martin d'Heres

90 av Gabriel Pri 38400 SAINT MARTIN D'HERES

* *04 76 42 67 11*
* fax : *04 76 42 65 81*
* *09 61 51 30 04*

Best regards

RD

jlmertz@free.fr a crit :


I am sorry but I am not happy with my Volo TMD22 (Perkins) engine

_In the first hand *the price* of :_

* the engine,
* the parts :
o tubo is made by GARRETT cost for a NEW *380EUR *by VOLVO
_*1 500*_EUR....
o Heat exchanger ref 861581 4 148,15EUR !!!!!
o Heat exchanger _eleme _ref 861607 1 785,65 EUR !!!!!!!
o etc...
* service costs .... etc.

_*are ANOMALY HEIGHT *_

*_On the second hand :_*

* service is for me bad :
o I asked Volvo in Grenoble to have the technical manual they
refused ....
o I asked Volvo the procedure to adjust the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer
o I asked Volvo the reference of the the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer

* Technical support with me experience is not at a NORMAL level :
o Change of parts that are good (and if you see there price
you can understand)
o *_No efficient technical support_*
o etc...

_*Be sure, I NEVER buy a boat with a VOLVO in *_

CB
----------------------------------------------------------
Jean Boucharlat a crit :

I beg to disagree... !

Yanmar is certainly not a bad engine but, during a one week hands-on
Diesel
training course a couple years back, I had the opportunity to take
apart and
rebuild both the Volvo TMD 22 and the Yanmar and it was quite
obvious that
the Yanmar was much more lightly built than the Volvo. From the block
itself
to the gudgeons holding it and any other parts, the Yanmar looked flimsy
once dismantled.

This being said I am certain that Yanmar, a competent company, did a
good
job of designing and building this engine but it wasn't meant
originally for
marine use. It's a car or light truck engine adapted for marine use.

As to the Volvo, in fact, there isn't much Volvo in it as the block is
indeed an original Perkins block built in Japan by Kubota! But it's,
in my
opinion and experience, a good and reliable engine.

Now, Amel didn't change over to Yanmar because of quality issues with
Volvo,
they changed because of the lack of flexibility of Volvo in
accommodating
special requests from Amel. In particular, a few years ago, they had a
problem getting Volvo to supply them with a rather unusual part, the
small
caps used to plug the foundry holes (in French, my mother tongue,
"trou de
fonderie") that you find on the sides of the engine block. This was
not very
surprising as the foundry work is done in Japan, probably by a
subcontractor
of Kubota.

You may also know that Amel has gone back to Volvo for their 54.

I entirely agree, though, that Volvo parts are indeed outrageously
expensive.

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232 Satchimi

N.B. I'm not a Volvo employee, nor agent, nor in anyway related to
Yanmar
and/or Volvo! Just a customer.

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
jlmertz@free.fr <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr> <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr>
Sent: mercredi 7 janvier 2009 08:40
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!
TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO
expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o
*
_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and
injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,
both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.

JLM
Cottonbay
SM316
----------------------------------------------------------

Jorge Zlatar a crit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right
choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge






Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

jlmertz@free.fr <jlmertz@...>
 

I am sorry but I am not happy with my Volo TMD22 (Perkins) engine

_In the first hand *the price* of :_

* the engine,
* the parts :
o tubo is made by GARRETT cost for a NEW *380EUR *by VOLVO
_*1 500*_EUR....
o Heat exchanger ref 861581 4 148,15EUR !!!!!
o Heat exchanger _eleme _ref 861607 1 785,65 EUR !!!!!!!
o etc...
* service costs .... etc.

_*are ANOMALY HEIGHT *_

*_On the second hand :_*

* service is for me bad :
o I asked Volvo in Grenoble to have the technical manual they
refused ....
o I asked Volvo the procedure to adjust the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer
o I asked Volvo the reference of the the Bosch fuel pump :
no answer

* Technical support with me experience is not at a NORMAL level :
o Change of parts that are good (and if you see there price
you can understand)
o *_No efficient technical support_*
o etc...

_*Be sure, I NEVER buy a boat with a VOLVO in *_

CB
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jean Boucharlat a Ă©crit :


I beg to disagree... !

Yanmar is certainly not a bad engine but, during a one week hands-on
Diesel
training course a couple years back, I had the opportunity to take
apart and
rebuild both the Volvo TMD 22 and the Yanmar and it was quite obvious that
the Yanmar was much more lightly built than the Volvo. From the block
itself
to the gudgeons holding it and any other parts, the Yanmar looked flimsy
once dismantled.

This being said I am certain that Yanmar, a competent company, did a good
job of designing and building this engine but it wasn't meant
originally for
marine use. It's a car or light truck engine adapted for marine use.

As to the Volvo, in fact, there isn't much Volvo in it as the block is
indeed an original Perkins block built in Japan by Kubota! But it's, in my
opinion and experience, a good and reliable engine.

Now, Amel didn't change over to Yanmar because of quality issues with
Volvo,
they changed because of the lack of flexibility of Volvo in accommodating
special requests from Amel. In particular, a few years ago, they had a
problem getting Volvo to supply them with a rather unusual part, the small
caps used to plug the foundry holes (in French, my mother tongue, "trou de
fonderie") that you find on the sides of the engine block. This was
not very
surprising as the foundry work is done in Japan, probably by a
subcontractor
of Kubota.

You may also know that Amel has gone back to Volvo for their 54.

I entirely agree, though, that Volvo parts are indeed outrageously
expensive.

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232 Satchimi

N.B. I'm not a Volvo employee, nor agent, nor in anyway related to Yanmar
and/or Volvo! Just a customer.

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
jlmertz@free.fr <mailto:jlmertz%40free.fr>
Sent: mercredi 7 janvier 2009 08:40
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!
TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO
expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o
*
_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and
injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,
both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.

JLM
Cottonbay
SM316
----------------------------------------------------------

Jorge Zlatar a Ă©crit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Gary and thanks to all for info and suggestions,
others news :
-the fun of LP pump works and the pump too : the water flows out before the HP pomp starts.
-my electrical box is different from yours, it is a previous model, I think, more simple.
At the moment it may be a problem of gauge and I'll check it as you told me in detail. Thanks so much !
Anyway I have time , if necessary, to order it to Olivier when I'll be back at home ( VENEZIA, IT ) next summer. Now I'm in Venezuela sailing tomorrow to Cuba.
This group is GREAT !
All the best and..vento in poppa.
Giovanni
EUTIKIA SM2K 428

----- Original Message -----
From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator


Hi Giovanni:

Regarding your post : " At the start the low press gauge doesn't mark green and remains on red, but after 2
minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible to regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No
allarm. It seams all working properly, also the Low P."

To trouble shoot this problem I suggest the following:

1. While you are in the engine room next to the low pressure pump, have your
assistant start the watermaker. After approximately 20 seconds you should hear
the low pressure pump start. Approximately 90 seconds later you will hear the
high pressure pump start.

2. Once the low pressure pump starts (if it does) and prior to the high pressure pump starting, look over
the side of the boat and see if sea water is flowing out the thru hole on the port side.

If the low pressure pump fails to start it could be due to:

A. Tripped circuit breaker for the BP pump (located in the electrical box on the back
side of the water maker which is accessible from the port lazerette , see my water maker picture folder)
or
B. Bad control relay on the the circuit board in the electrical box (again, see the photos in the Watermaker
Service Folder)
C. Bad ganged relay in the electrical box.

You can manually set the ganged relay, thus bypassing the control relay, by using the small lever on the
front of the ganged relay (see Photos). If manually setting the ganged relay with its lever causes the low
pressure pump to run, then the control relay or its circuitry is bad. Write back for instructions on how to
wire a manual override like Richard suggested.

If the BP pump Circuit Breaker is ok and the ganged relay clicks and the pump doesn't run then you have
a bad pump (most likely)

If the pump runs, you have sea water out the side of the boat, but you still don't show feed water pressure
at the panel then you have a faulty gauge.

Check to see if the gauge is leaking or the fluid in it is discolored or cloudy. You can obtain a new gauge
from Amel by emailing Olivier Beaute at sav at amel dot fr , as I have done so. Dont' bother trying to have
Dessalator ship directly, it is a nightmare. They don't have any expertise in shipping or handling purchases
internationally.

The gauge is removed by removing the three screws on the faceplace, then unscrewing the gauge
from the rear of the panel using a wrench. The gauge merely screws into a brass manifold. These
are typical European non-NPT (National Pipe Thread) threads. That is they are not tapered pipe
threads and therefore are difficult to seal. When installing the new gauge you will need to seal the
threads with something, 3M5200 does NOT work.

Hope this helps, let us know what your finding are.

Gary Amel SM Hull # 335






------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Nessun virus nel messaggio in arrivo.
Controllato da AVG - http://www.avg.com
Versione: 8.0.176 / Database dei virus: 270.10.2/1876 - Data di rilascio: 05/01/2009 9.44


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Jean Boucharlat
 

I beg to disagree… !



Yanmar is certainly not a bad engine but, during a one week hands-on Diesel
training course a couple years back, I had the opportunity to take apart and
rebuild both the Volvo TMD 22 and the Yanmar and it was quite obvious that
the Yanmar was much more lightly built than the Volvo. From the block itself
to the gudgeons holding it and any other parts, the Yanmar looked flimsy
once dismantled.



This being said I am certain that Yanmar, a competent company, did a good
job of designing and building this engine but it wasn’t meant originally for
marine use. It’s a car or light truck engine adapted for marine use.



As to the Volvo, in fact, there isn’t much Volvo in it as the block is
indeed an original Perkins block built in Japan by Kubota! But it’s, in my
opinion and experience, a good and reliable engine.



Now, Amel didn’t change over to Yanmar because of quality issues with Volvo,
they changed because of the lack of flexibility of Volvo in accommodating
special requests from Amel. In particular, a few years ago, they had a
problem getting Volvo to supply them with a rather unusual part, the small
caps used to plug the foundry holes (in French, my mother tongue, “trou de
fonderie”) that you find on the sides of the engine block. This was not very
surprising as the foundry work is done in Japan, probably by a subcontractor
of Kubota.



You may also know that Amel has gone back to Volvo for their 54.



I entirely agree, though, that Volvo parts are indeed outrageously
expensive.



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232 Satchimi



N.B. I’m not a Volvo employee, nor agent, nor in anyway related to Yanmar
and/or Volvo! Just a customer.





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jlmertz@free.fr
Sent: mercredi 7 janvier 2009 08:40
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace



*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!
TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO
expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o
*
_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and
injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,
both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.

JLM
Cottonbay
SM316
----------------------------------------------------------

Jorge Zlatar a Ă©crit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

jlmertz@free.fr <jlmertz@...>
 

*DON'T hesitate YANMAR is the best choice !!
TMD22 is a VERY BAD engine (AMEL skipped to YANMAR), Volvo part are TO
expensive, service in NOT qualified !! >:o
*
_For your information_ : a new turbo on a tmd22 coast 380EUR and
injector can be cleaned by ultrasonic cleaning,
both is easy to do by yourself if you have some mechanic experience.

JLM
Cottonbay
SM316
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jorge Zlatar a Ă©crit :

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Dessalator

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Giovanni:

When the low pressure pump starts and water comes out the thru hull on the
port side that indicates that the pump is putting out water flow. The water
maker will make water and the high pressure pump will usually operate ok
WITHOUT the low pressure pump.

However, the high pressure pump is sensitive to cavitation or air bubbles. It
isn't very good at sucking water, just pushing it. That is why you have the low
pressure feed pump to help prevent air bubbles entering the high pressure pump.

At any rate it sounds as if your low pressure pump is operating ok and I believe
that you have an indication problem. Either the gauge is bad, plugged, or the
tubing to the gauge is plugged.

I suggest that you undo the B-nut on the back of the low pressure gauge that
attaches the blue tubing to the gauge and check to see if you have any
obstructions in the orifice that enters the gauge. If it is clear then place the
blue tube into a bucket to catch any water and start the low pressure pump
in the normal fashion and see if you have water low thru the blue tubing. If
there is no flow then check the input side of the blue tubing to see if there is an
obstruction. Just break it down into its individual parts and trouble shoot
each item.

An air bubble in the blue tube would not cause the indicator error you are describing.
Air, while it is compressible, will still transmit pressure to the gauge. It might
dampen the reading but it would not cause a zero reading. You can check the
gauge using compressed air by rigging up a hose to apply regulated air pressure
to the input nipple of the gauge. Before you do that do the simple things noted
above first.

Best of luck and let us know what you find.

Gary


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Udo <udo@...>
 

By the way, I do have the original Perkins engine and all the parts
still stored in Seattle. It actually runs well. I was mostly going for
more power.



Also I made a typo. It is 4JH3- HTE



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Udo
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re:Engine replace



Dear Jorge,

I replaced our Perkins (which I understand is the same as the Volvo)
Engine on our SM #50 two years ago with the Yanmar 4JH3-THE. This is a
great engine and has performed very well. The additional horsepower is
nice. The work was pretty elaborative and performed by a good shop. One
of the big challenges besides reengineering the frame the engine sits
on, was to make it a fully insulated engine. The shop we used in Seattle
got in touch with Amel's Olivier Beaute who supplied some good advice
and pictures.

It was expensive but well worth it.

Udo, SM#50

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Udo <udo@...>
 

Dear Jorge,



I replaced our Perkins (which I understand is the same as the Volvo)
Engine on our SM #50 two years ago with the Yanmar 4JH3-THE. This is a
great engine and has performed very well. The additional horsepower is
nice. The work was pretty elaborative and performed by a good shop. One
of the big challenges besides reengineering the frame the engine sits
on, was to make it a fully insulated engine. The shop we used in Seattle
got in touch with Amel's Olivier Beaute who supplied some good advice
and pictures.



It was expensive but well worth it.



Udo, SM#50



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace



Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: [Amel] Stern Bridel

Eric Freedman
 

Richard,

How high a wind have you had this in?

The Jordan Drogue is art least 350 feet long and starts with 1 ÂĽ inch
bridles.



Fair Winds,

Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 10:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Stern Bridel



Eric, we do it very simply. We lay a 3/4" line tied to both sten cleats it's
about 200 feet long and we have 4 ft of 3/8 chain on it to keep it deep.
It's worked time after time.
regards
Richard SM 209 in Corsica

--- On Sat, 1/3/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> e.net> wrote:

From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>
e.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Stern Bridel
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, January 3, 2009, 10:46 PM

















This works on a Jordan drogue?



Thanks



Fair Winds,



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of peter pappas

Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 5:11 AM

To: amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups. com

Subject: [Amel] Stern Bridel



For stern rodes I pass the rode inside the back stay; using
another line

from the opposite cleat I attach it too the rode using a
prussix not. It

makes an easy and adjustable bridel. Peter Pappas sm369
Nicaragua



--- On Wed, 12/31/08, kimberlite <kimberlite@ optonlin

<mailto:kimberlite% 40optonline. net> e.net>
wrote:



From: kimberlite <kimberlite@ optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite% 40optonline. net>

e.net>

Subject: RE: [Amel] New Set of Sails

To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow
ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 10:34 PM



I forgot to mention, that the bridle of the drogue rubs on
the backstays and

needs hourly attention to the chafe gear. I will change
this arrangement

soon.



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtow ners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
Yeager Moonster

Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 4:11 PM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: RE: [Amel] New Set of Sails



I take it you were pleased with the performance of the
Jordon series drogue.

Could you describe your experience with it? Was it attached
to the boat

using the standard stern cleats or do you have special
attachment points?

How did you retrieve the drogue?



Thanks!



George Phillips



--- On Tue, 12/30/08, kimberlite <kimberlite@ optonlin

<mailto:kimberlite% 40optonline. net> e.net>
wrote:



From: kimberlite <kimberlite@ optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite% 40optonline. net>

e.net>

Subject: RE: [Amel] New Set of Sails

To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow
ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Date: Tuesday, December 30, 2008, 6:06 PM



Hi,



Offshore and in the Caribbean we use an approximately 10
ounce Doyle sail

Yankee cut and about 110 percent. If you have light air our
Gennaker and 1

/1/2 oz genoa for light air.



The heavy weather sail was made specifically to furl to at
least 50 percent

and we have tested it in over 50 knots recently. It is a
beautiful sail and

i strongly recommend that specific Doyle sail. It was
measured on board so

we could furl it and still have good shape when highly
furled.



Over 50 knots steady we went to bare poles and then beyond
that we went to

the Jordan series drogue. If you don't have one of
those on board you are

making a BIG mistake.



Fair Winds,



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtow ners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
Richard Piller

Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:37 AM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel] New Set of Sails



Kent, use the inner stay that should be tied to the rail of
the 48. We used

a small high clue head sail several times in heavy weather.
In fact we used

it to hove to for several days in our old 48. It works
great. You should

also find a 3:1 block and tackle with 5/8 line on the boat.
That is what is

used to attached the inner stay to the deck cleat.

Good luck with your new boat..

Richard and Joan in Corsica on SM 209



--- On Mon, 12/29/08, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.

<mailto:karkauai% 40yahoo.com> com> wrote:



From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.
<mailto:karkauai% 40yahoo.com> com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] New Set of Sails
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow
ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Date: Monday, December 29, 2008, 10:12 AM
Thanks, Richard/Joan,
I've gone ahead and ordered both headsails (the
145 and

110) from Banks/Gulfcoast. Hoping to get the boat to
Galveston (by truck from Lake Texoma) in the next week
and

have her ready to go in time to sail to S Fla. by mid
Jan.

What kind of storm sail do you use? I know there is a
storm sail of some kind on the boat, but I don't
know

yet what kind or what kind of shape it's in.
I'm

in NC and the boat's in TX.
Yipppppeeeee! !!!!!!
Kent
--- On Mon, 12/29/08, Richard Piller
<richard03801@ <mailto:richard0380 1%40yahoo.
com> yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@
<mailto:richard0380 1%40yahoo. com>

yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] New Set of Sails
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow
ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Date: Monday, December 29, 2008, 4:51 AM
Hi, you may wish to try Super Sails in Ft. Laurderdale
FL

they give Amel owners a deal.. If you do use them get
the HD

sails as they'll do better at sea... Also if you
are

going to in Carib get the blaster... Good luck and
congrats

on your "new" Amel
Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209
--- On Fri, 12/19/08, karkauai <karkauai@yahoo.
com>

wrote:
From: karkauai <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: [Amel] New Set of Sails
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, December 19, 2008, 9:42 AM
Ahoy, Amel Family. New member here, just bought
1999SuperMaramu on
Lake Texoma. Trucking to Galveston this mo. and
trying

to
get her
ready to go south by mid Jan. She needs a new set
of

sails, and I'd
like some opinions on what was recommended by
Banks

Sails
Gulf Coast
after talking to Amel. He said that a 145% genoa
was

recommended for
anything up to 30kts of wind, and a smaller
headsail

~110%
for steady
winds of 20+.
145% genoa sounds like a LOT of sail. I was
wondering

if
those you who
are sailing SuperMaramu' s are using this
configuration
and what you
think of it. If you're using something else,
what?,
and what are the
conditions your sailing in? I was thinking
something

more
like 120-
130% genoa???
I'm going to need some hand-holding for a
while,

you'll probably hear a
lot from me in the coming months.
thanks in advance for your help.
Kent Robertson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Jim Dernehl <jim.dernehl@...>
 

Jorge

About 5 years ago I replaced my main drive engine with a Westerbeke
B-82 Serial # U4417-E108 as I was having overheating problems with my
Perkins. I selected the Westerbeke because it had slightly more power
then the original engine, parts are easily available and it is naturally
aspirated----no turbo to fail. Further more I had installed a Westerbeke
Generator on the boat and some of the parts were interchangeable between
the engines---thus reducing my spares inventory. The B-82 fit well into
the boat with some new holes drilled into the mounting rails. During
this installation I added a remote oil filter option available from
Westerbeke that accepts a common style oil filter----I save about $30.00
per filter change as a result. Overall I would say that I have been very
pleased with the engine and its performance.
Jorge----if you elect to go this route I can send you some photos of
the engine installation next time I am on the boat or feel free to go
see it yourself----it is located in Norfolk Virginia.

Best Jim Dernehl
Pao-San #88

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jorge Zlatar
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 9:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace



Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I
was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the
same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new
Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: [Amel] Re:Engine replace

Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@...>
 

Dear All
I have in my SMM #195 a Volvo Penta TMD 22 B with almost 5.000 hrs, I was going to replace the turbo and Injectors, the cost is almost the same as a new engine. I have a quote for a new Volvo and for a new Yanmar. Have any one replace the TMD22 . What will be the right choice?.
Thanks in advance
Jorge


Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator

Giovanni TESTA
 

HI Gary and to all,
thanks for help, I have copy of your documentation , very useful !
Well, when I start, after few seconds I see the water going out. After a while the HP starts and so it is possible to have fresh water with the restricor valve.
The LP gauge remains red. No allarm.
Is it possible that the water is flowing out with the LP pump not working ? I think no. Is it possible the HP pump works without LP pump? Again no ?
So may be a little air bubble along the blu tube and gauge?
This is the first time I use the Dessalator after 5 monthes. The last time I used it no problem, but again last year when I start for the first time the LP gauge remained on red, then slowly using it others times the arrow went on green. !?
last time I used the Dessalator for 30 ", no problems. Green , good water.
Is it possible to manally check the gauge ?
thanks so much
Giovanni
EUTIKIA SM2K 428

----- Original Message -----
From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator


Hi Giovanni:

Regarding your post : " At the start the low press gauge doesn't mark green and remains on red, but after 2
minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible to regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No
allarm. It seams all working properly, also the Low P."

To trouble shoot this problem I suggest the following:

1. While you are in the engine room next to the low pressure pump, have your
assistant start the watermaker. After approximately 20 seconds you should hear
the low pressure pump start. Approximately 90 seconds later you will hear the
high pressure pump start.

2. Once the low pressure pump starts (if it does) and prior to the high pressure pump starting, look over
the side of the boat and see if sea water is flowing out the thru hole on the port side.

If the low pressure pump fails to start it could be due to:

A. Tripped circuit breaker for the BP pump (located in the electrical box on the back
side of the water maker which is accessible from the port lazerette , see my water maker picture folder)
or
B. Bad control relay on the the circuit board in the electrical box (again, see the photos in the Watermaker
Service Folder)
C. Bad ganged relay in the electrical box.

You can manually set the ganged relay, thus bypassing the control relay, by using the small lever on the
front of the ganged relay (see Photos). If manually setting the ganged relay with its lever causes the low
pressure pump to run, then the control relay or its circuitry is bad. Write back for instructions on how to
wire a manual override like Richard suggested.

If the BP pump Circuit Breaker is ok and the ganged relay clicks and the pump doesn't run then you have
a bad pump (most likely)

If the pump runs, you have sea water out the side of the boat, but you still don't show feed water pressure
at the panel then you have a faulty gauge.

Check to see if the gauge is leaking or the fluid in it is discolored or cloudy. You can obtain a new gauge
from Amel by emailing Olivier Beaute at sav at amel dot fr , as I have done so. Dont' bother trying to have
Dessalator ship directly, it is a nightmare. They don't have any expertise in shipping or handling purchases
internationally.

The gauge is removed by removing the three screws on the faceplace, then unscrewing the gauge
from the rear of the panel using a wrench. The gauge merely screws into a brass manifold. These
are typical European non-NPT (National Pipe Thread) threads. That is they are not tapered pipe
threads and therefore are difficult to seal. When installing the new gauge you will need to seal the
threads with something, 3M5200 does NOT work.

Hope this helps, let us know what your finding are.

Gary Amel SM Hull # 335






------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator

Eric Freedman
 

I know of another that Necol (francoise) built a completely new watermaker
for $1000- us.

He has also done superb work on my boat, watermaker, new water heater, and
their electronics’ guy is first class.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of m_iachelli
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 9:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator



Hi Giovanni,
The workshop they are talking about is NECOL in Sint Maarten (Dutch
side) and the name of the technician is François. Don't bother
calling them if you want to replace parts of your Dessalator. They
are not dealears of the brand, but they are very good at repairing
almost any brand. If you'll contact them they will probably tell you
to change system. I talk about some problem of my Dessalator with
François around 18 months ago and he didn't have a great opinion of
Dessalator even if he would have been able to fix it. They are not
only dealers of watermakers, but also builders of the system, meaning
that they can project and build a system for you. The only downside
of the shop is the prices. In any case, their website is
www.necol.com and you can contact them at info@necol.com
<mailto:info%40necol.com> . If you
want to stick with Dessalator (maybe not the best idea if you don't
live in Europe) better contact their dealer in USA at info@great-
water.com or you maybe could try to get something out of Amel yard in
Guadeloupe. The contacts some of the members has given you are just
nice shop owners who will contact Dessalator in France for you and
charge you on the original price. Of the two is best St. Martin at
least you will not be charged for the TVA (IVA 20%).
I hope to have helped you. If you plan to sail north to St Martin let
me know and I could direct you onto one or two technicians that can
fix your problems and don't drain your bank account.
Buon Vento
Mauro
"Esperanza" Euros #166

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

Giovanni,

My guess is that the low pressure pump is not putting out the
required
pressure...but it is only a guess.

Anyway, here are 2 contacts I used in the Caribbean:
Mr. Yvon Icare
Chantier Naval
ZAC artimer - Bât D
Quartier Montgérald
97290 Le Marin, Matinique
+33 (0) 5 96 74 70 78
antillesmarine"at"wanadoo.fr (substitute @ for "at")
========================
L'ile Marine (manager: Guy ___?)
Sandy Ground Bridge
Rue Lady Fish
Marigot, Saint Martin, F.W.I. T: 590-29-08-60
L.ile.marine"at"budgetmarine.com (substitute @ for "at")


Best,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387


--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Giovanni Testa"
<gtesta23@> wrote:

Hi to all,

I have an Amel-Dessalator 160 lt 2004 and I'm in Venezuela.

At the start the low press gauge doesn't mark green and remains on
red, but after 2 minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible
to
regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No allarm. It
seams all working properly, also the Low P.

I have replaced the 2 filters without any change.

may be the gauge blocked in the thin blu tube ? other problems?

More, the restrictor valve drips a little.I have tightened the
bolt
once 5 monthes ago, now it drops again and I have tightened it
again.
Is it normal ?

Where is possible to find Dessalator service in Caribbean ?

Thank to all for any suggestions and all the best for the New Year

Giovanni TESTA

S/V EUTIKIA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dessalator

m_iachelli
 

Hi Giovanni,
The workshop they are talking about is NECOL in Sint Maarten (Dutch
side) and the name of the technician is François. Don't bother
calling them if you want to replace parts of your Dessalator. They
are not dealears of the brand, but they are very good at repairing
almost any brand. If you'll contact them they will probably tell you
to change system. I talk about some problem of my Dessalator with
François around 18 months ago and he didn't have a great opinion of
Dessalator even if he would have been able to fix it. They are not
only dealers of watermakers, but also builders of the system, meaning
that they can project and build a system for you. The only downside
of the shop is the prices. In any case, their website is
www.necol.com and you can contact them at info@necol.com . If you
want to stick with Dessalator (maybe not the best idea if you don't
live in Europe) better contact their dealer in USA at info@great-
water.com or you maybe could try to get something out of Amel yard in
Guadeloupe. The contacts some of the members has given you are just
nice shop owners who will contact Dessalator in France for you and
charge you on the original price. Of the two is best St. Martin at
least you will not be charged for the TVA (IVA 20%).
I hope to have helped you. If you plan to sail north to St Martin let
me know and I could direct you onto one or two technicians that can
fix your problems and don't drain your bank account.
Buon Vento
Mauro
"Esperanza" Euros #166

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

Giovanni,

My guess is that the low pressure pump is not putting out the
required
pressure...but it is only a guess.

Anyway, here are 2 contacts I used in the Caribbean:
Mr. Yvon Icare
Chantier Naval
ZAC artimer - Bât D
Quartier Montgérald
97290 Le Marin, Matinique
+33 (0) 5 96 74 70 78
antillesmarine"at"wanadoo.fr (substitute @ for "at")
========================
L'ile Marine (manager: Guy ___?)
Sandy Ground Bridge
Rue Lady Fish
Marigot, Saint Martin, F.W.I. T: 590-29-08-60
L.ile.marine"at"budgetmarine.com (substitute @ for "at")


Best,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Giovanni Testa"
<gtesta23@> wrote:

Hi to all,

I have an Amel-Dessalator 160 lt 2004 and I'm in Venezuela.

At the start the low press gauge doesn't mark green and remains on
red, but after 2 minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible
to
regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No allarm. It
seams all working properly, also the Low P.

I have replaced the 2 filters without any change.

may be the gauge blocked in the thin blu tube ? other problems?

More, the restrictor valve drips a little.I have tightened the
bolt
once 5 monthes ago, now it drops again and I have tightened it
again.
Is it normal ?

Where is possible to find Dessalator service in Caribbean ?

Thank to all for any suggestions and all the best for the New Year

Giovanni TESTA

S/V EUTIKIA




Re: Dessalator

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Giovanni:

Regarding your post : " At the start the low press gauge doesn't mark green and remains on red, but after 2
minutes ca the HI press starts and it is possible to regulate the Restrictor valve and to have fresh water. No
allarm. It seams all working properly, also the Low P."

To trouble shoot this problem I suggest the following:

1. While you are in the engine room next to the low pressure pump, have your
assistant start the watermaker. After approximately 20 seconds you should hear
the low pressure pump start. Approximately 90 seconds later you will hear the
high pressure pump start.

2. Once the low pressure pump starts (if it does) and prior to the high pressure pump starting, look over
the side of the boat and see if sea water is flowing out the thru hole on the port side.

If the low pressure pump fails to start it could be due to:

A. Tripped circuit breaker for the BP pump (located in the electrical box on the back
side of the water maker which is accessible from the port lazerette , see my water maker picture folder)
or
B. Bad control relay on the the circuit board in the electrical box (again, see the photos in the Watermaker
Service Folder)
C. Bad ganged relay in the electrical box.

You can manually set the ganged relay, thus bypassing the control relay, by using the small lever on the
front of the ganged relay (see Photos). If manually setting the ganged relay with its lever causes the low
pressure pump to run, then the control relay or its circuitry is bad. Write back for instructions on how to
wire a manual override like Richard suggested.

If the BP pump Circuit Breaker is ok and the ganged relay clicks and the pump doesn't run then you have
a bad pump (most likely)

If the pump runs, you have sea water out the side of the boat, but you still don't show feed water pressure
at the panel then you have a faulty gauge.

Check to see if the gauge is leaking or the fluid in it is discolored or cloudy. You can obtain a new gauge
from Amel by emailing Olivier Beaute at sav at amel dot fr , as I have done so. Dont' bother trying to have
Dessalator ship directly, it is a nightmare. They don't have any expertise in shipping or handling purchases
internationally.

The gauge is removed by removing the three screws on the faceplace, then unscrewing the gauge
from the rear of the panel using a wrench. The gauge merely screws into a brass manifold. These
are typical European non-NPT (National Pipe Thread) threads. That is they are not tapered pipe
threads and therefore are difficult to seal. When installing the new gauge you will need to seal the
threads with something, 3M5200 does NOT work.

Hope this helps, let us know what your finding are.

Gary Amel SM Hull # 335


Re: [Amel] Re: Watermaker for Santorin

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

Hi,
 
A previous owner had an Italian Marinco Aquastar Junior 60L fitted by REYA in Cannes.
It was fitted on the starboard side of the aft, big, locker, with an salt water intake pipe at the starboard aft end of the engine room.   Dont copy it!   On a long passage the last thing you really want to do is open up the aft locker, particularly if you are running downwind with a "solid" following sea!   Another problem was that it was very easy to knock the swich to on when working in the locker and particularly when you were climbing in or out of the locker.
 
The arrangement suggested below should be much more practicable.   Nothing wrong with the Marinco watermaker though.
 
Regards,
 
Robin Cooter,
Santorin 004, Belouga.

--- On Mon, 5/1/09, Craig & Katherine <sangaris@aol.com> wrote:

From: Craig & Katherine <sangaris@aol.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Watermaker for Santorin
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, 5 January, 2009, 3:58 PM






Hi M&H,
We installed an Offshore Marine Systems (aka Village Marine) component
system.
-Sea water intake through-hull is in engine room near aft bulkhead to
port of the engine stringer.
-For accessibility, the feed water pump and filters are in aft wet
locker next to the fuel tank. We have a 20 micron and a 5, plus a third
carbon filter for the flush system.
-For noise reduction, the high pressure pump is in the engine room
mounted on the starboard wall with vibration dampeners.
-For accessibility the control module and membrane are in the area
above the fuel tank (on the other side of the bulkhead from the hi
pressure pump - easy plumbing).
-It is a 120v system as we have a genset, but you could easily run 12v.

Don't know your itinerary but we're in Sicily headed your way this
year. We'll keep an eye out for you.
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine
Santorin #68 - s/v Sangaris


Re: [Amel] Re: furling motor mounting bushing

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Hello Pat,

How about posting the contact information to the list?

Roy Duddy

Unwineding

Sharki #123



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 10:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: furling motor mounting bushing



Pat, send me a phone number and I'll get you a better source.
Richard on SM 209

--- On Sat, 1/3/09, sailw32@aol.com <mailto:sailw32%40aol.com>
<sailw32@aol.com <mailto:sailw32%40aol.com> > wrote:

From: sailw32@aol.com <mailto:sailw32%40aol.com> <sailw32@aol.com
<mailto:sailw32%40aol.com> >
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: furling motor mounting bushing
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Saturday, January 3, 2009, 9:38 AM

















Two weeks ago I sent my gearbox to a
Bonfigioli rep in Vineland,N.J. He

felt he would be able to identify the gearbox and find a
replacement or a set of

gears an seals to rebuild. Dealing direct should save
considerable money,I

bought a gearbox from Amel last year and with shipping it
was over $600. .

However UPS lost my gearbox and just sent me a claim
form.If you are in the

U.S. and want to send your gearbox to this rep I will
provide contact info.I

suggest insurance.Your outhaul gearbox will probably go
soon since they have the

same wear on it,that's what happened with my boat. Pat
SM Shenanigans





In a message dated 1/2/2009 10:03:37 P.M. Eastern Standard
Time,

mdondra@verizon.
net writes:



Thanks, will look into having them locally machined.



Now the harder question. In disassembling the mainsail
furling gearbox some

water flowed out. I found the top bearing pretty well
shot, the gearbox

grease pretty well solidified, the gear worn, and the
bearing for the motor

shaft solidly caked in hard grease. Likely that some water
penetrated

through the drive shaft top seal. Has anyone taken this
assembly apart,

removing the aluminum slotted drive socket from the top,
and pressed off the

bearings to replace them? In this case the gear and the
shaft seals would

also need replacement. Are such kit's available?



Secondly, has anyone been successful in removing the gear
box from the

motor? This would be necessary to clean and re-grease the
motor shaft thrust

bearing, or, as ugly as the inside was upon opening, to
replace the entire

gearbox and re-utilize the motor.



As the furling process is so critical to safety and
pleasure when cruising,

I would think that furling motor gearbox maintenance is
something that

owners should be able to perform from time to time, and
that rebuild kits or

replacement gear boxes would be available. What are others
doing in this

regard after 5 to 10 years?



I have posted photos of both the outhaul and main furling
gearboxes in the

ALETES photo album. Note that getting the screws out of
the gear box covers

was exceptionally difficult, requiring the use of an
impact screwdriver and

much exertion. I will replace the screws with new ones as
the slots were

damaged, re-tap the treads they screw into to loosen them
up, and use

anti-seize compound on them when assembling to allow an
easier extraction

next time!



Mike Ondra

ALETES SM 240



_____







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