Date   

Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 
Edited

Addendum:  

The quantity of paint required was about 1/2 quart of the topcoat color and 1/3 quart of the primer with appropriate amounts of catalyst for both. A one quart can of the topcoat was $99 US.  Still waiting for the bill for primer and the catalysts but I am guessing about $400 in supplies.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 
Edited

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 05:00 AM, Thomas Peacock wrote:
One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint?
Hi Thomas.  The original light brown colored faux teak, while somewhat oxidized, is in good shape everywhere except the stern lazarette cover (the garage lid).  That was evidently made by the apprentices at Amel and the gel coat there was brushed on rather than sprayed into the mold.  This left a very non-uniform thickness of the gel coat and patches of brush mark pattern wore thru years ago.  Still dithering about how to deal with that issue.  Joel has indicated (thru the grapevine third hand) that the gel coat on that hatch is always the first too fail. 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 

"What and how much did you use to dull the paint to a matte finish?"

I just painted the deck stripes, not the entire faux teak.  The original was a gel coat gloss finish brown (I bought the boat new so I know) and the new deck stripping is high gloss (probably higher gloss than the original gel coat.  I suppose I could have added a flattener but chose not to do so.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico


Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater

Mark McGovern
 

Duane,

Clean the corrosion off and pick up some of this to coat the PCB with:  https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/conformal-coatings/silicone-conformal-coating-422b

You can get it on Amazon.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Wells
 

Gary,

I will start holding back a little out of each paycheck ..  By the time I can afford you, the price will likely go up :)

I think we are due in a couple more years so I am going to save this beautiful description and meditate over it until then.

I have the striping tool in my "for later" shopping cart on Amazon.  :)  Now I just have to wait to get up the resolve to start this one .. I think I may be building that up for many months!

 

Congrats, can't wait ti see some pictures of the process and the results.

Gary W.

SM 209, Adagio

Maryland, USA


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Mark Erdos
 

Gary,

 

Thanks for this. The deck repainting is a project I have been putting off since first taking ownership of Cream Puff. What and how much did you use to dull the paint to a matte finish?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Silver via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2019 10:54 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

 

Hi all:  

I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint.  It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure.  In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint.  After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions.  I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip.  Here is data:
1.  Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better.  Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable.  Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin.
2.  You need to sand to a good solid substrate.  In my case that meant getting to gelcoat.
3.  You need to use an epoxy primer  (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed)  is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated.  It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity).  This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool.  I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 
4.  Two topcoat color coats are needed.  I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter.  I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer).  Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours.

Sanding:  13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit).  This was a huge job!!!!  I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done.  

Painting:  8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit).  This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon.  For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits.  There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats.  

It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project.

Would I do it again?  I am not sure.  If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps,  I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off.  If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded.  I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-)

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335  (2001)
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

James Alton
 

Gary,
   It sounds like to did an amazing paint job on your boat and I hope that you can get the 20 years.    I have had Awlgrip last that long on my seasonally used boat stored in the North.  I do not know of a more durable paint for Marine use than the Awlgrip.   The Awlgrip does not seem to age noticeably in the absence of UV so you can extend the life if you can shade the boat some.  Unlike the Brightsides, oxidation when it comes will tend to me on the surface so failure will still be a long way down the road.  You can remove the oxidation if you want with a fine polish. 
   I am am wondering if you did anything to improve the non-skid qualities of the final finish?  If not,  are you satisfied with the nonskid qualities of your Awlgripped deck?

Thanks,
James
SV Sueno
Arbatax, Italy


Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>
Date: 6/24/19 1:00 PM (GMT+01:00)
To: "main@amelyachtowners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Hi Gary,

You seem to have talked me out of re-doing our deck. We still have original, but it obviously looks quite tired. Huge project, either bricolage, or by hiring someone.

One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint? 

Thanks,
Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

On Jun 23, 2019, at 10:54 PM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi all:  

I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint.  It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure.  In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint.  After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions.  I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip.  Here is data:
1.  Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better.  Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable.  Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin.
2.  You need to sand to a good solid substrate.  In my case that meant getting to gelcoat.
3.  You need to use an epoxy primer  (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed)  is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated.  It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity).  This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool.  I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 
4.  Two topcoat color coats are needed.  I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter.  I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer).  Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours.

Sanding:  13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit).  This was a huge job!!!!  I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done.  

Painting:  8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit).  This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon.  For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits.  There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats.  

It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project.

Would I do it again?  I am not sure.  If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps,  I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off.  If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded.  I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-)

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335  (2001)
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico




Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Arlo
 
Edited

Hello Gary, great summary and thanks for sharing. For whats its worth, i painted my deck and pilothouse with awlgrip on my last boat (a hudson force 50) and after 8 years in the blazing Florida sun it still looked brand new. I have been looking at the deck and stripes on my mango and contemplating painting it with awlgrip just not sure how to get the old paint off without sanding and losing the texture of the teak gelcoat...but you should expect the painting you did to last 10 plus years. 

Arlo
S/V Seaduction
Mango # 46


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Gary,

You seem to have talked me out of re-doing our deck. We still have original, but it obviously looks quite tired. Huge project, either bricolage, or by hiring someone.

One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint? 

Thanks,
Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

On Jun 23, 2019, at 10:54 PM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi all:  

I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint.  It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure.  In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint.  After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions.  I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip.  Here is data:
1.  Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better.  Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable.  Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin.
2.  You need to sand to a good solid substrate.  In my case that meant getting to gelcoat.
3.  You need to use an epoxy primer  (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed)  is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated.  It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity).  This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool.  I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 
4.  Two topcoat color coats are needed.  I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter.  I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer).  Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours.

Sanding:  13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit).  This was a huge job!!!!  I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done.  

Painting:  8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit).  This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon.  For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits.  There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats.  

It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project.

Would I do it again?  I am not sure.  If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps,  I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off.  If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded.  I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-)

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335  (2001)
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico




Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Merci Peter, Many thanks for this help full informations, I will check the C drive movement as soon as possible ....

Have a nice day....

JL Mertz

CottonBay


Le 24/06/2019 à 03:04, Peter de Groot a écrit :
I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
After replacing the fixed 19" prop with the original Autoprop (that the previous owner had removed) I found the vibration had increased.  When checking the C drive movement above the keel weight, there was more than 5mm but less than 10mm movement.  It seemed excessive, I checked in with Bill R, and then scraped away the sealing material.  In my case the bolt was loose.  so I found a soft but tight bushing material and reassembled making sure the bolt was snug. This has been the first weekend out since replacing and the vibration seem less, but not eliminated....(I know ...not very scientific).

Worthy of a mention:  To get the bolt centered, lateral adjustment (port to starboard) is easy, fore and aft adjustment is much stiffer.  My fore and aft alignment was 3 to 4 mm off in its unflexed state.  I could get alignment perfect by prying with considerable leverage.   Instead I opted for a softer hose material which absorbed the misalignment. I concluded the fore-aft alignment could be affected by too many factors in the engine compartment, and pressed for time I chose not to investigate further. 
I'd be curious if any other Amelites have found similar conditions.

Peter de Groot
la Querida SM207
Moss Landing, California

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 

Hi all:  

I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint.  It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure.  In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint.  After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions.  I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip.  Here is data:
1.  Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better.  Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable.  Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin.
2.  You need to sand to a good solid substrate.  In my case that meant getting to gelcoat.
3.  You need to use an epoxy primer  (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed)  is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated.  It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity).  This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool.  I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 
4.  Two topcoat color coats are needed.  I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter.  I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer).  Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours.

Sanding:  13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit).  This was a huge job!!!!  I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done.  

Painting:  8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit).  This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon.  For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits.  There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats.  

It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project.

Would I do it again?  I am not sure.  If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps,  I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off.  If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded.  I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-)

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335  (2001)
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico



Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

Peter de Groot
 

I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
After replacing the fixed 19" prop with the original Autoprop (that the previous owner had removed) I found the vibration had increased.  When checking the C drive movement above the keel weight, there was more than 5mm but less than 10mm movement.  It seemed excessive, I checked in with Bill R, and then scraped away the sealing material.  In my case the bolt was loose.  so I found a soft but tight bushing material and reassembled making sure the bolt was snug. This has been the first weekend out since replacing and the vibration seem less, but not eliminated....(I know ...not very scientific).

Worthy of a mention:  To get the bolt centered, lateral adjustment (port to starboard) is easy, fore and aft adjustment is much stiffer.  My fore and aft alignment was 3 to 4 mm off in its unflexed state.  I could get alignment perfect by prying with considerable leverage.   Instead I opted for a softer hose material which absorbed the misalignment. I concluded the fore-aft alignment could be affected by too many factors in the engine compartment, and pressed for time I chose not to investigate further. 
I'd be curious if any other Amelites have found similar conditions.

Peter de Groot
la Querida SM207
Moss Landing, California


Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater

karkauai
 

Hi Duane,
where are you now?  There’s a good guy in Annapolis area who was recommended by Coastal Climate Control.  He works on Climma, Frigoboat, and Espar and....
His name is Mike Coleman, (443) 351-7827, AStarYachtServices@...

Hope you get it working, I’m going to be working on mine this summer, too.
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243


Re: Material used by Amel on Super Maramus at the base of the masts

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

You assumptions are only half correct. My mizzen has the same dark material underneath. The main has the lighter material. This was replaced at the time I purchased the boat. Amel Martinique has a special tool for this, a sort of modified jack to lift the mast just a bit for this.
If I were to guess both slabs are made out of solid polyurethane. Apparently the quality of the dark one is better. I may also be that the lighter one is actually an very dense form of polyurethane foam, so it has airbubbles inside contary to the mizzen mast version. Why they chose to change it I don’t know, maybe to dampen the shockloads when in heavy seas.

Just my 2 cents.

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121


Material used by Amel on Super Maramus at the base of the masts

 

What is the material Amel used on a Super Maramu mast bases and where can it be purchased? Apparently it is a different material installed on 54s and later because the material used on later model Amels does not seem to last as long.  

image.png
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater

Duane Siegfri
 

Alan,

Symptons:  When I turn the dial to ventilate, or one of the heat settings, the green indicator light in the dial comes on, but nothing else happens.  No heat, no fan.  

The boatyard I was in (Jamestown RI), I'm not sure who the subcontractor was.

Duane


Re: Boston E 14, new Bamar Furler

Arno Luijten
 

I examined them closely and did notice some changes between the old and the new. They may have improved the robustness as the old one did like to fail.  Mine were both broken.
Be aware the new furlers use additional wires

I posted a whole story about this some months ago. 

Cheers,

Arno


Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

ngtnewington Newington
 

Thanks  Bill, 
I am pretty sure all is fine but next time I haul I will double check for any play beyond 8-10mm laterally.
Nick


On 21 Jun 2019, at 20:31, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Nick, same as SM. There is a rubber bushing sleeved around that bolt. This is exactly what I am talking about. 

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 9:06 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
On the 54 there is a bolt covered in black mastic from the bottom of the C drive to the iron keel. Presumably this anchors the C drive. Is there any adjustments or anything to look out for?
Nick
Amelia AML54-019 in Gaios Paxos


On 21 Jun 2019, at 16:34, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

On a C-Drives older than 1999, don't forget to check the C-Drive foot for side-to-side movement by pushing on the aft end of the foot. No more than 8-10mm. If you have more, remove the foot bolt to the ballast and replace the bushing which is made of heavy rubber hose. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 4:28 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi I am at Lakka, but moving round to Gaios this pm.
Nick
> On 21 Jun 2019, at 10:36, arthur saftlas <art@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard Yanmar is particularly bad with going thru mounts. Some engines do not run smoothly, some do.
>
>
>
>





Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

 

Nick, same as SM. There is a rubber bushing sleeved around that bolt. This is exactly what I am talking about. 


On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 9:06 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
On the 54 there is a bolt covered in black mastic from the bottom of the C drive to the iron keel. Presumably this anchors the C drive. Is there any adjustments or anything to look out for?
Nick
Amelia AML54-019 in Gaios Paxos


On 21 Jun 2019, at 16:34, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

On a C-Drives older than 1999, don't forget to check the C-Drive foot for side-to-side movement by pushing on the aft end of the foot. No more than 8-10mm. If you have more, remove the foot bolt to the ballast and replace the bushing which is made of heavy rubber hose. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 4:28 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi I am at Lakka, but moving round to Gaios this pm.
Nick
> On 21 Jun 2019, at 10:36, arthur saftlas <art@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard Yanmar is particularly bad with going thru mounts. Some engines do not run smoothly, some do.
>
>
>
>





Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

Mark Erdos
 

Jose,

 

Very cool!

 

I guess I have one more question. Where did you buy this and do you have part number? (that might be two questions)

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jose Venegas via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 1:04 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

 

 

 Did you have to modify the ballooner and add a gaiter? 

NO

Where do you attach it to on the foredeck?

Directly to the anchor support plate standard hole image1.png