Merci Peter, Many thanks for this help full informations, I will check the C drive movement as soon as possible ....

Have a nice day....

JL Mertz

CottonBay

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I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
After replacing the fixed 19" prop with the original Autoprop (that the previous owner had removed) I found the vibration had increased.  When checking the C drive movement above the keel weight, there was more than 5mm but less than 10mm movement.  It seemed excessive, I checked in with Bill R, and then scraped away the sealing material.  In my case the bolt was loose.  so I found a soft but tight bushing material and reassembled making sure the bolt was snug. This has been the first weekend out since replacing and the vibration seem less, but not eliminated....(I know ...not very scientific).

Worthy of a mention:  To get the bolt centered, lateral adjustment (port to starboard) is easy, fore and aft adjustment is much stiffer.  My fore and aft alignment was 3 to 4 mm off in its unflexed state.  I could get alignment perfect by prying with considerable leverage.   Instead I opted for a softer hose material which absorbed the misalignment. I concluded the fore-aft alignment could be affected by too many factors in the engine compartment, and pressed for time I chose not to investigate further. 
I'd be curious if any other Amelites have found similar conditions.

Peter de Groot
la Querida SM207
Moss Landing, California

Hi all:  

I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint.  It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure.  In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint.  After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions.  I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip.  Here is data:
1.  Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better.  Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable.  Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin.
2.  You need to sand to a good solid substrate.  In my case that meant getting to gelcoat.
3.  You need to use an epoxy primer  (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed)  is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated.  It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity).  This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool.  I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 
4.  Two topcoat color coats are needed.  I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter.  I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer).  Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours.

Sanding:  13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit).  This was a huge job!!!!  I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done.  

Painting:  8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit).  This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon.  For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits.  There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats.  

It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project.

Would I do it again?  I am not sure.  If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps,  I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off.  If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded.  I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-)

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335  (2001)
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico

I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
After replacing the fixed 19" prop with the original Autoprop (that the previous owner had removed) I found the vibration had increased.  When checking the C drive movement above the keel weight, there was more than 5mm but less than 10mm movement.  It seemed excessive, I checked in with Bill R, and then scraped away the sealing material.  In my case the bolt was loose.  so I found a soft but tight bushing material and reassembled making sure the bolt was snug. This has been the first weekend out since replacing and the vibration seem less, but not eliminated....(I know ...not very scientific).

Worthy of a mention:  To get the bolt centered, lateral adjustment (port to starboard) is easy, fore and aft adjustment is much stiffer.  My fore and aft alignment was 3 to 4 mm off in its unflexed state.  I could get alignment perfect by prying with considerable leverage.   Instead I opted for a softer hose material which absorbed the misalignment. I concluded the fore-aft alignment could be affected by too many factors in the engine compartment, and pressed for time I chose not to investigate further. 
I'd be curious if any other Amelites have found similar conditions.

Peter de Groot
la Querida SM207
Moss Landing, California

Hi Duane,
where are you now?  There’s a good guy in Annapolis area who was recommended by Coastal Climate Control.  He works on Climma, Frigoboat, and Espar and....
His name is Mike Coleman, (443) 351-7827, AStarYachtServices@...

Hope you get it working, I’m going to be working on mine this summer, too.
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243

Hi Bill,

You assumptions are only half correct. My mizzen has the same dark material underneath. The main has the lighter material. This was replaced at the time I purchased the boat. Amel Martinique has a special tool for this, a sort of modified jack to lift the mast just a bit for this.
If I were to guess both slabs are made out of solid polyurethane. Apparently the quality of the dark one is better. I may also be that the lighter one is actually an very dense form of polyurethane foam, so it has airbubbles inside contary to the mizzen mast version. Why they chose to change it I don’t know, maybe to dampen the shockloads when in heavy seas.

Just my 2 cents.

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121

Alan,

Symptons:  When I turn the dial to ventilate, or one of the heat settings, the green indicator light in the dial comes on, but nothing else happens.  No heat, no fan.  

The boatyard I was in (Jamestown RI), I'm not sure who the subcontractor was.

Duane

I examined them closely and did notice some changes between the old and the new. They may have improved the robustness as the old one did like to fail.  Mine were both broken.
Be aware the new furlers use additional wires

I posted a whole story about this some months ago. 

Cheers,

Arno

Thanks  Bill, 

Thank you Bill, I will check this point at first,

Jean Luc MERTZ

On CottonBay

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On a C-Drives older than 1999, don't forget to check the C-Drive foot for side-to-side movement by pushing on the aft end of the foot. No more than 8-10mm. If you have more, remove the foot bolt to the ballast and replace the bushing which is made of heavy rubber hose. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 4:28 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi I am at Lakka, but moving round to Gaios this pm.
Nick
> On 21 Jun 2019, at 10:36, arthur saftlas <art@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard Yanmar is particularly bad with going thru mounts. Some engines do not run smoothly, some do.
>
>
>
>

Thank you for the tip I will check it

Merci Beaucoup

Jean Luc MERTZ

On CottonBay

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Hi Bill,

On the 54 there is a bolt covered in black mastic from the bottom of the C drive to the iron keel. Presumably this anchors the C drive. Is there any adjustments or anything to look out for?

Nick

Amelia AML54-019 in Gaios Paxos

On 21 Jun 2019, at 16:34, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

On a C-Drives older than 1999, don't forget to check the C-Drive foot for side-to-side movement by pushing on the aft end of the foot. No more than 8-10mm. If you have more, remove the foot bolt to the ballast and replace the bushing which is made of heavy rubber hose. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 4:28 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi I am at Lakka, but moving round to Gaios this pm.
Nick
> On 21 Jun 2019, at 10:36, arthur saftlas <art@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard Yanmar is particularly bad with going thru mounts. Some engines do not run smoothly, some do.
>
>
>
>

Yes they do and the mechanical gay was experiment with AMEL SM

Merci

JLMERTZ

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Did they use the special alignment tool when installing the engine back into the C drive?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of jlm@...
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 1:44 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

 

Hello everyone

I have two friends who have a SM (1997 and 1999) who after having changed all the mounts  and the coupling of the engine have a significant residual vibration.

Both have the distinction of having a fixed three-blade propeller.

Would there be in our group a person who had this problem or could have a track?
Jean Luc
CottonBay

Yes they do and the mechanical gay was experiment with AMEL SM

Merci

JLMERTZ

---

Did they use the special alignment tool when installing the engine back into the C drive?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of jlm@...
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 1:44 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running

 

Hello everyone

I have two friends who have a SM (1997 and 1999) who after having changed all the mounts  and the coupling of the engine have a significant residual vibration.

Both have the distinction of having a fixed three-blade propeller.

Would there be in our group a person who had this problem or could have a track?
Jean Luc
CottonBay

Super Nick,

It is exactly my conclusion bat the two fixed prop are perfect, so I could not image it could be possible ...

Before to turn back to Autoprop (actually as spare) I will check the big bolt on the bottom of the C-drive that fixed it  on the keel ...

Merci beaucoup for your help full answer ...

Jean Luc MERTZ

on CottonBay

---

On my last boat I used to have a fixed three blade prop and there was some vibration. It was a traditional shaft  and stern tube arrangement. I spent ages realigning the engine. Then I pulled the shaft and sent it with the prop to a machine shop. The shaft was true but the prop was not balanced properly. I decided to buy a feathering prop and keep the old as a spare. No more vibration....So it could be the prop.

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019 Paxos

On 21 Jun 2019, at 08:43, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hello everyone

I have two friends who have a SM (1997 and 1999) who after having changed all the mounts  and the coupling of the engine have a significant residual vibration.

Both have the distinction of having a fixed three-blade propeller.

Would there be in our group a person who had this problem or could have a track?
Jean Luc
CottonBay

Hi Bill,

Hi Duane, what were your symptoms? How long does it run on heat mode? Does the thermostat shut it down when it's warm?
Mine runs for about 7 mins just fine then stops. It has done this for a while but I have never been in a temp below 70 degrees. Tomorrow is forecast for 64 so I will try again.
Who did you have work on it as I can't seem to find anyone?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai. SM 406
Washington DC

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