Date   

Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

 

The seawater toilet pump anti-siphon lines can get blocked with salt. It will be very obvious with a buildup of salt at the top. And, of course these anti-siphon lines either drain (if not blocked) into the gray water, or overflow (if blocked into the gray water.

If the gray water level is close to triggering the pump-out of gray water, the amount of saltwater passing into the gray water tank from the anti-siphon system can be enough to trigger the pump switch.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 11:44 AM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
On Wanderer, when we run one of the toilet pumps, enough of the seawater goes to the bilge to activate the bilge pump (of course the bilge had to be partially full for this to happen, or the seawater pump was run for a longer time).

The seawater lines to the toilets have a vent loop in the engine room that has a tube going into the bilge.  As far as I can see there isn't a mechanical vent there.  So the conclusion I come to is that the seawater lines are clogged.  I haven't heard about this on the forum here so I'm wondering: is this common?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Jammed top roller Genoa

ngtnewington Newington
 

I am hoping to shed some light on my current problem. I did a short sail today in 10 kn of true wind. The Genoa halyard needed some tension so I cranked the halyard but actually the lashing had perished. After a few seconds, maybe 30 I saw that the sail was coming down. So I quickly tacked with headsail backed and dropped it on deck. I then anchored off Corfu town and found a friendly Frenchman to winch me up the mast. Alas the top furling drum is completely jammed. It went up easily when I cranked it, probably right up maybe off the foil I do not know. Now I am stuck. I tried winching it down. I tried winching it up. Solid.
I really do not want to drop the for-stay unless I have to. Any ideas?
Nick
Amelia AML54-019
anchored off Corfu town


Secondary Anchor Suggestion for SM?

Duane Siegfri
 

I recently lost the 44# Brittany that was on the port bow roller.  It came up missing after a particularly rough night along the coast of the Dominican Republic.

Any suggestions on what to replace it with that will fit with the 30kg St. Steel Bugel?  I'm keeping an eye out for a used 44# Brittany.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

PS:  How did the Brittany get lost?  I had recently unscrewed the bolt (it was looking a bit rusty) to be sure it wasn't rusted solid with the nut and coated it with some corrosion resistant grease.  Then reinstalled it and tightened it.  Apparently there was enough vibration to back the bolt out.  Like I said, it was a rough night.  This is one case where it would have been better not to worry about the corrosion...  I'm pretty sure this was a replacement bolt that wasn't a very high grade of stainless.


Re: Anchors

Barry Connor
 

No Bill,
Sorry, I bent my 33kg Wasi, see “How to straighten a bent boat anchor” on YouTube”, the Wasi bent when I lifted it after it dragged in weed during a 35 - 40 knot blow at night and then snagged in rocks which woke me up. I now have a 40kg Rocna and it really digs in. The 40kg Rocna is the largest I think you can fit on a 54. I was told that the stainless steel was not as strong as the galvanized.
I have the Wasi as a secondary on the Port roller.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
AMEL 54. #17
Preveza Greece


On Jun 26, 2019, at 18:58, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Wasi, Wasi, Wasi.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 9:09 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> I have three anchors on Amelia;
> 1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
> 2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
> 3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.
>
> The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
> Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
> Nick
> Anchored off Corfu town
> Amelia 54-019
>
>
>





Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater

Duane Siegfri
 

Mike,

Thanks for the info.  We're in Carriacou headed for Grenada.  I'll keep the Annapolis info.  

Hope all is well with you and Iris!
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Duane Siegfri
 

On Wanderer, when we run one of the toilet pumps, enough of the seawater goes to the bilge to activate the bilge pump (of course the bilge had to be partially full for this to happen, or the seawater pump was run for a longer time).

The seawater lines to the toilets have a vent loop in the engine room that has a tube going into the bilge.  As far as I can see there isn't a mechanical vent there.  So the conclusion I come to is that the seawater lines are clogged.  I haven't heard about this on the forum here so I'm wondering: is this common?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Anchors

 

Wasi, Wasi, Wasi.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 9:09 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> I have three anchors on Amelia;
> 1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
> 2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
> 3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.
>
> The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
> Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
> Nick
> Anchored off Corfu town
> Amelia 54-019
>
>
>





Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Thomas Kleman
 

Gary- just my experience but Polytrol doesn't seem to effect anti skid properties. It looks like it should (the deck color pops and it appears wet). Only thing to be careful of with Polytrol is the buildup in the faux line grooves. You need to brush it out well and use thin coats.

Your post brought back some memories for me, painting the lines in 90 degree heat and doing the math for how long a line would it be if it was end to end. I came up with 2/10 of a mile but there's my Poetry/Sanskrit double major plaguing me again.


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

karkauai
 

Thanks Gary, I’ll do that too.

Kent

On Jun 26, 2019, at 9:31 AM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Eric,  thanks for the heads-up on rust bullet.  I ~will~ find some.  I've already primed and painted  with plain Rustoleum and it turned out well.  Putting the hardware back together was not difficult at all.
Inserting the new strips of stuffing is also.pretty easy. They appear to be a bit too long and require some length-wise compression as you feed it into the slot.  I gently tapped around it using the wide end of a center punch (not the point) and then used the big nut to cinch it down into the tube.  Added the second one, did the same and then the third.

Three is definitely the number that fits when new.  No way a fourth one will go in there.

I'm not real.certainnhow tight to cinch it all.down, so it's half-way between "that ought to do.it" and "motorcycle tight".  
This leaves a good portion of the nut's threads exposed; perhaps five turns worth

One item noticed with the nut up so high is that it contacted the lock nut holding the bonding wired.  The nut is bigger than the head of the bolt so push the bolt through from the bottom. Do this ~before~ you cinch the armature into position :). 

Kent, do not fear!!   And, knowing what I know .. find a smallish (Honda style) car jack.  It fits under the long arm of the crank and can put upward pressure to break it free with some (5 lb sledge) light tapping (which was heard throughout the yard) :)

I've used quite a bit of anti-seize in the reassembly and I'm putting a.five-year look-see/cleaning flag on this one. 

.  
Now .. on to C-drive seals and bow thruster stuff!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Hot and dry in Maryland. 


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

Gary Wells
 

Eric,  thanks for the heads-up on rust bullet.  I ~will~ find some.  I've already primed and painted  with plain Rustoleum and it turned out well.  Putting the hardware back together was not difficult at all.
Inserting the new strips of stuffing is also.pretty easy. They appear to be a bit too long and require some length-wise compression as you feed it into the slot.  I gently tapped around it using the wide end of a center punch (not the point) and then used the big nut to cinch it down into the tube.  Added the second one, did the same and then the third.

Three is definitely the number that fits when new.  No way a fourth one will go in there.

I'm not real.certainnhow tight to cinch it all.down, so it's half-way between "that ought to do.it" and "motorcycle tight".  
This leaves a good portion of the nut's threads exposed; perhaps five turns worth

One item noticed with the nut up so high is that it contacted the lock nut holding the bonding wired.  The nut is bigger than the head of the bolt so push the bolt through from the bottom. Do this ~before~ you cinch the armature into position :). 

Kent, do not fear!!   And, knowing what I know .. find a smallish (Honda style) car jack.  It fits under the long arm of the crank and can put upward pressure to break it free with some (5 lb sledge) light tapping (which was heard throughout the yard) :)

I've used quite a bit of anti-seize in the reassembly and I'm putting a.five-year look-see/cleaning flag on this one. 

.  
Now .. on to C-drive seals and bow thruster stuff!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Hot and dry in Maryland. 


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

karkauai
 

Hi Gary,
Are you sure you’re not describing one of my projects?  Not that I wouldn’t expect problems anyway, but forewarned is forearmed.    Guess I should order two sets of stuffing and two sets of nuts and bolts, and gird myself for another 3-day job doing something that looks like it should take an hour or two.

Thanks for the description of what to expect.  Now anything less will be a pleasant surprise.
Kent

Kent & Iris
Kristy SM243

On Jun 25, 2019, at 1:26 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Hi!

Just went through the exercise of pulling the steering crank from the rudder post as it is time to change then shaft stuffing.  Used the last sixth of a turn a couple of months ago so the big but has nothing else to give if (when) it starts to leak again. 



To my surprise there were not three, not five (as I have read is something you can do with a cool bit of modificariion) but four pieces of stuffing in there.  I'm presuming this was because either; the P.O. used different size stuffing pieces (it's hard to tell because they're all smashed now) or maybe the last time the big nut hit the stop point the P.O. just added another piece to buy some time (which means what? .. could I just have added a fifth one??)
.
At any rate, i'm just going to use the three pieces that Amel sent and see how it goes (but I'm ordering more today :) 

This is the first time I've done this job and I'll go on record as saying "wow! .. what a bear it is to get that crank off" after many years of siting and rust-welding into place.  After compulsory soakings with pbBlaster and AeroKroil and then the tugging, prying and banging I gave up and asked for yard help.  I have a puller, but it's not quite large enough for this job and a new one costs about an hour's worth of yard labor so I let them pull it apart.

After I cleaned (spelled "Angle Grinder) all the rust off and spent some quality time with the Dremel getting to the small spots the crank slipped back on very easily.

But ..  the hardest part so far has been that I purchased all new hardware (nut, bolts, washers lockpin) and one of the 14mm bolts galled a thread about half-way home.

I broke two tools trying to get it undone and finally used the angle grinder to cut the bolt hea off ..  sheesh .. didn't see that coming.

Ah well, should be finished by tomorrow .  Clean-up and de-corroding is the biggest part of the job :)

Will make.sur that the bonding circuit is good too (I just know someone was going to remind me of that :)

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
In the rack.


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

eric freedman
 

Hi Gary,

I painted The entire assembly with Rust Bullet paint except one side of the vertical portion that rests against the rudder post.

I have removed this “quadrant” a few times and the Rust Bullet is amazing stuff no rust.

I have painted a number of things on board and no rust after application. Used by the us navy.

 

It was recommended to me by my friend Eric Forsyth. An incredible sailor 360,000 miles on a home built boat .

3 x around the world northwest passage and much more. If you wish I would look at his book. It is his 50 year story about sailing. He is still sailing distances at age 86 years old.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 1:27 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Rudder Post Conjecture

 

Hi!

Just went through the exercise of pulling the steering crank from the rudder post as it is time to change then shaft stuffing.  Used the last sixth of a turn a couple of months ago so the big but has nothing else to give if (when) it starts to leak again. 



To my surprise there were not three, not five (as I have read is something you can do with a cool bit of modificariion) but four pieces of stuffing in there.  I'm presuming this was because either; the P.O. used different size stuffing pieces (it's hard to tell because they're all smashed now) or maybe the last time the big nut hit the stop point the P.O. just added another piece to buy some time (which means what? .. could I just have added a fifth one??)
.
At any rate, i'm just going to use the three pieces that Amel sent and see how it goes (but I'm ordering more today :) 

This is the first time I've done this job and I'll go on record as saying "wow! .. what a bear it is to get that crank off" after many years of siting and rust-welding into place.  After compulsory soakings with pbBlaster and AeroKroil and then the tugging, prying and banging I gave up and asked for yard help.  I have a puller, but it's not quite large enough for this job and a new one costs about an hour's worth of yard labor so I let them pull it apart.

After I cleaned (spelled "Angle Grinder) all the rust off and spent some quality time with the Dremel getting to the small spots the crank slipped back on very easily.

But ..  the hardest part so far has been that I purchased all new hardware (nut, bolts, washers lockpin) and one of the 14mm bolts galled a thread about half-way home.

I broke two tools trying to get it undone and finally used the angle grinder to cut the bolt hea off ..  sheesh .. didn't see that coming.

Ah well, should be finished by tomorrow .  Clean-up and de-corroding is the biggest part of the job :)

Will make.sur that the bonding circuit is good too (I just know someone was going to remind me of that :)

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
In the rack.


Re: Anchors

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲

On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have three anchors on Amelia;
1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.

The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
Nick
Anchored off Corfu town
Amelia 54-019



Re: Main electrical switch for Meltem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Secours means "emergency". I don't know your boat, but could be 2 sets of batteries together (like start and house).

On Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 11:34:58 AM CDT, <reilly67@...> wrote:


Although I have owned my Meltem for 20 years I have never understood the rationale for a 4 position switch. I simply use it as a main ON/OFF power switch but it obviously has additional features. The markings were in French, but had worn away by the time of my purchase. Does anyone know the original 4 position labels on this switch and english translation? The down position is legible: SECOURS - but I can't figure out exactly what they mean by that. An original wiring diagram would be ideal if anyone can locate one.T

TIA, Bill Reilly


Re: Main electrical switch for Meltem

amelforme
 

From the top clockwise: Arret-OFF, Marche-ON, Secours-ALL BATTERIES ENABLED TO START THE ENGINE, Charge-ENABLES BATTERIES TO BE CHARGED ON SHORE POWER.

 

I was always told by Amel folks to only rotate the switch clockwise to make it last the longest.

 

Hope this is helpful. Joel

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of reilly67@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 12:35 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main electrical switch for Meltem

 

Although I have owned my Meltem for 20 years I have never understood the rationale for a 4 position switch. I simply use it as a main ON/OFF power switch but it obviously has additional features. The markings were in French, but had worn away by the time of my purchase. Does anyone know the original 4 position labels on this switch and english translation? The down position is legible: SECOURS - but I can't figure out exactly what they mean by that. An original wiring diagram would be ideal if anyone can locate one.T

TIA, Bill Reilly


Rudder Post Conjecture

Gary Wells
 

Hi!

Just went through the exercise of pulling the steering crank from the rudder post as it is time to change then shaft stuffing.  Used the last sixth of a turn a couple of months ago so the big but has nothing else to give if (when) it starts to leak again. 



To my surprise there were not three, not five (as I have read is something you can do with a cool bit of modificariion) but four pieces of stuffing in there.  I'm presuming this was because either; the P.O. used different size stuffing pieces (it's hard to tell because they're all smashed now) or maybe the last time the big nut hit the stop point the P.O. just added another piece to buy some time (which means what? .. could I just have added a fifth one??)
.
At any rate, i'm just going to use the three pieces that Amel sent and see how it goes (but I'm ordering more today :) 

This is the first time I've done this job and I'll go on record as saying "wow! .. what a bear it is to get that crank off" after many years of siting and rust-welding into place.  After compulsory soakings with pbBlaster and AeroKroil and then the tugging, prying and banging I gave up and asked for yard help.  I have a puller, but it's not quite large enough for this job and a new one costs about an hour's worth of yard labor so I let them pull it apart.

After I cleaned (spelled "Angle Grinder) all the rust off and spent some quality time with the Dremel getting to the small spots the crank slipped back on very easily.

But ..  the hardest part so far has been that I purchased all new hardware (nut, bolts, washers lockpin) and one of the 14mm bolts galled a thread about half-way home.

I broke two tools trying to get it undone and finally used the angle grinder to cut the bolt hea off ..  sheesh .. didn't see that coming.

Ah well, should be finished by tomorrow .  Clean-up and de-corroding is the biggest part of the job :)

Will make.sur that the bonding circuit is good too (I just know someone was going to remind me of that :)

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
In the rack.


Main electrical switch for Meltem

Bill SF 360
 

Although I have owned my Meltem for 20 years I have never understood the rationale for a 4 position switch. I simply use it as a main ON/OFF power switch but it obviously has additional features. The markings were in French, but had worn away by the time of my purchase. Does anyone know the original 4 position labels on this switch and english translation? The down position is legible: SECOURS - but I can't figure out exactly what they mean by that. An original wiring diagram would be ideal if anyone can locate one.T

TIA, Bill Reilly


Re: Fixed Port Lights - Maramu

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

Hello Andy
did not see attachment & a little baffled by '4' fixed Port lights ? 
just in case this meets your query, I just replaced my Port signal light by same model as original, 
-manufacturer DHR in Holland, model 35 base Z (side holder);
helps keep the boat in vintage condition using Equipment worth its salt. 
as Mr henri would have done.
DHR catalog is fairly comprehensive & true to tradition.

farewell

christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet en Roussillon

 


Le lundi 17 juin 2019 à 23:21:00 UTC−4, Andy via Groups.Io <allezaubon@...> a écrit :


Dear Amel Family,

 a small question; 


We intend to replace all four fixed port lights in the coming months .

We see that the stainless cover / fixing plate is held with screws , not bolted through and there appears to be a “rubber “ gasket.  Doesn’t seem to be silicone ?  .

Can anyone advise what material was used by Amel?  

is there anything we should be aware of before attempting this project ????


Please see photo below by way of illustration:- 


Thanks again for all support, very much appreciated.


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 

Hi Denise:   Photos to follow.  Preparing to haul out tomorrow morning early so you know how overwhelming it seems in that state. I promise to post some photos. 

Gary
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  # 335
Puerto Rico


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Gary Silver
 

Hi Thomas, I will be more diligent about using Polytrol after hearing of your experience.  The aft lazarette brush marks isn't gospel, just what I have heard.  The reason I haven't used Polytrol more is that I felt it reduced the anti-skid effect of the faux teak.  What are you're thoughts.

Gary 
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico