Date   
Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Paul,

I'll do that.  I plan to put them in the Files section.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Roque,

Thats fantastic!  Thank you!  Now I can fabricate the tool and take it back to Grenada with me.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:

The removal of the end cap (called "Bearing Cap" in the exploded parts diagrams, item #2) was the most difficult part of the Autoprop overhaul for me.  The two-peg tool I bought from Brunton was totally inadequate (bent within seconds and became useless).  It is my belief that this cap was assembled at the factory with a locking sealant.  At any rate, manufacture a 4 peg tool using the dimensions posted by another member in this thread.  Those dimensions are correct.  The pegs will need to be hardened steel (you can use drill bit shanks).
A SS two pin tool most likely won't work.  When the time comes to remove the bearing cap/end caps, heat the cap with a heat gun (you want to loosen any locktite with heat NOT heat damage the metal), apply your tool tightly (two people with gloves so you don't get burned, one to hold the tool in place and one to apply the torque) and turn in an anti-clockwise direction.  Note that this is most easily accomplished with the prop on the boat so it is held in place as you apply your torque.  My notes are that all threads on the auto prop are right hand threads (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) EXCEPT FOR THE THREADS OF THE TAB SCREW aka locking nut (item 4, part number H6 TRI-0221) THAT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS.

I have posted in the photos section a series of photos (search "Autoprop" in the photos section" relative to removing the races, the failed peg spanner etc.  Located there is my photo of using a socket that I ground down to produce the tool for removing the left hand treaded tab screw (called by me the "locking nut"). I did this out of desperation in Antigua and it worked well but took me several hours with a Dremmel tool and hand files.  Unfortunately I didn't make note of the size of the socket I used.    Also, in the files section, there are several rather dis-jointed posts that contain tips related to my experience with this overhaul.  It is all about the tools!!!  

Evidently the Autoprop comes in a model that doesn't have lip seals and has flooded bearings (open to sea-water).  My model has lip seals and the bearings are not flooded.  My failure was caused by the Autoprop recall when the factory failed to overhaul my prop with seals (the bearings then failed within one season).  Once I overhauled it properly it has lasted 10 years. It is still silky smooth with these precautions:
1. I never allow power washing of the Autoprop.  A power washer can easily blow water past the lip seals.   
2. I religiously lube the Autoprop upon haul out each year.  

Good luck with your overhaul and don't hesitate to make/have made your own tools.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona   Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
On the hard for hurricane season in Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Stascavage
 

Duane,

I just did the rebuild a few months ago. Supposedly, King Propulsion will loan you the tools. When I needed them there was a boat show going on somewhere and I couldn’t get a response so I ended up biting the bullet and buying them. A machine shop could make them for at least half the price.

Email me your address and I will ship them to you. You can ship them back to me when you are done. I would suggest having them made by a machine shop while you have them in your possession but not until you have used them. This way you will have some ideas for improvements.

I highly recommend watching the rebuild videos on the YouTube King Propulsion channel.

Even with the tools and using an extension for leverage, I was unable to get the end caps off. I ended up having a machine shop do that for me. Both heat and leverage were needed to get mine off.

The entire job took me much longer than I anticipated. I also found conflicting information regarding torque specifications for putting everything back together. I forget at the moment what I ended up going with but I have an accessible write up that is not accessible at the moment if you want me to look up my notes.

Write me if you have any questions.

Also a huge FYI. In the King Propulsion videos, he attacks the end caps as if they are LH threads in one video and RH in another. They are RH threads.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Exploring City Island, NY

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

Ian Park
 

Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 

Apparently Amel call these stainless sections ‘boomerangs’ for obvious shape based reasons.
I had crevice corrosion in all 6 shrouds on the main mast - where they passed through these boomerangs which prompted a complete replacement of all our standing rigging in Martenique this year. 

I would recommend all to have a look at there shrouds at this location. 

It’s a 5 min job to loosen the shroud clamps and move the boomerang up for a peek. 

Interestingly on my Maramu the shrouds had plastic around them at the point of passing through the boomerang clamps. I’ve since noticed that all the SMs I’ve seen since don’t have this plastic sheathing. The boomerangs just attach directly to the wire shrouds. Perhaps this causes less problems. 

I for one will be washing / moving the boomerangs frequently. I might even take them off if the boat is stationary for a while as it’s a quick job. 

Interested to hear others experience 

All the best

Miles
Maramu 162
Plymouth uk 


On 5 Jul 2019, at 23:53, sailhanoah@... wrote:

On my Sharki 127 I have the usual stainless tubing support for the strut for the spinnaker pole. The support has a clamp assembly (6 fasteners) on the cap shroud and hides a 120mm length of wire.  The spport crimps onto the lowers with just one fastener.
I am curious if an owner has experienced a corrosion problem on the cap shroud where it it hidden within the support clamp assembly.  This is a place to collect dirt and must be disassembled for inspection.

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Mark Erdos
 

Duane,

 

Buy an Adjustable Pin Wrench. I’m not sure this would fit but it gives you the idea of what to shop for: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-Piece-7-5-in-Stainless-Steel-Adjustable-Wrench-Set/1000374705

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 1:52 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Autoprop H6 Tools

 

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Osterberg
 

Duane 
During coming winter I have to service my Autoprop as well. Would appreciate if you later post some pictures and eventual problems
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Duane,

I had mine made by a local engineer years ago. Photos attached. The pins are some hard material, not mild steel.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean pearl

On 23 July 2019 at 05:51 "Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io" <carlylelk@...> wrote:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Roque
 

Duane 

Regarding the “pin holes”:

Diameter: 5 mm

Depth: 4 mm

Distance between holes ( center): 23.5 mm

The cover is curved (like a dome). 12 mm high

Sorry no info on Tab Screw

I took pictures that might help 

Roque 

Attika A54 117
Santos - Brazil 

Em seg, 22 de jul de 2019 às 14:52, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Mark McGovern
 

Olaf,

I got the same "shock" this past winter when my lock failed.  The lock on my boat was not the original lock but was a very common door lock used throughout France.  I ended up getting this one:  https://www.amazon.fr/City-Verrou-suret%C3%A9-Cylindre-s%C3%A9curit%C3%A9/dp/B07JHTQXDQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548273837&sr=1-1&keywords=verrou+city+25

The bolt pattern was perfect but I did have to modify it slightly to get it to fit. I had to shorten the locking bar by about ~10mm.  Also, it is definitely not "Marine Grade" so it will eventually rust out.  A little Corrosion X will help and since it only cost around €25, I figure that I can replace it 20 times and still save money! ;)

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

I will take tomorrow the details and will try to get one in Germany where we order ouer where we order our stuff for the carpentry

Best Elja 
SM 222 Balu 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 22.07.2019 um 20:13 schrieb Annsofie & Jonas Svanberg <ann-sofie@...>:

Ouch, that much now. 
We took ours to a locksmith that managed to renovate it, thats about 10 years ago. It is still going strong.
Maybe that is a solution for you

Hälsningar/Regards/Cumprementos
Ann-Sofie
S\Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998.


Skickat från min iPhone

22 juli 2019 kl. 18:00 skrev Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...>:

Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

<campanionway locker 1.JPG>

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Annsofie & Jonas Svanberg
 

Ouch, that much now. 
We took ours to a locksmith that managed to renovate it, thats about 10 years ago. It is still going strong.
Maybe that is a solution for you

Hälsningar/Regards/Cumprementos
Ann-Sofie
S\Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998.


Skickat från min iPhone

22 juli 2019 kl. 18:00 skrev Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...>:

Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

<campanionway locker 1.JPG>

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Olaf,

Did you try rebuilding your?

Here is what I did:
http://www.nikimat.com/companion_way_broken_lock.html

Hope that helps and good luck!

Alexandre

On Monday, July 22, 2019, 12:00:30 PM CDT, Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...> wrote:


Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

Companionway locker for SM2K

Olaf Bauer
 

Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

Re: C-Map vs Navionics charts

Alan Leslie
 

It seems it very much depends on where you are.
In the South Pacific we have found C-Map to be very good. Navionics is very good in SOME places but definitely not all.
In the Yasawa islands, Fiji,  Navionics showed reefs where there aren't any and didn't show some reefs that are there. It also didn't show passages which are marked with buoys that have been there for years.
In New Caledonia however Navionics charts seemed very accurate and the bottom contours particularly useful (is that because NC is French?)
We have both C-Map and Navionics in Time Zero, Navionics also in the cockpit B&G plotter with forward scan (not very useful), C-Map in the Furuno NavNet II at the chart table and the cockpit and OpenCPN with GE2KAP satellite photos on the PC at the chart table and repeater tablet in the cockpit, which is very useful to display along side a chart to see reefs and shoals that sometimes aren't on the charts.  
Can't be too careful!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: C-Map vs Navionics charts

Willem Kroes
 

Hi Joerg,

I use C-map on my board PC and Navionics on my B&G plotter. I agree with your findings. For this reason I bought another navigating app on my PC that allows me to copy (within this app) the Navionics sd-card onto the hard disk of the PC. Don't try to copy without this app; little chance to succeed and the risk of loosing the functionality of the Navioncs sd-card.as well. The app I bought is called 'Tiki'. This is the website: http://www.tiki-navigator.com/English/default.htm

I use this app now during two seasons and I am quite satisfied to have the Navioncs chart not only on my plotter but also on my board PC.

Best regards,

Willem Kroes

SM2K #351 "Kavanga"

now in Greece

 

Re: Shore power contactor burnt out

Mark Erdos
 

Here is a source for the contactor: https://www.eibmarkt.com/cgi-bin/eibmarkt.storefront/5d3498c9007021c62746ac1e04020600/Product/View/NS0742502

 

I believe the original was rated 25A – I may be wrong about this.

 

Also, consider Amel as a part source on this. If the old part is no longer available perhaps they can suggest a replacement.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eamonn Washington
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2019 12:23 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Shore power contactor burnt out

 

The full description of the original contactor is LC1-D25008-M7.  It is discontinued.  I have ordered a used one on ebay, so I could eventually do a like for like swap, but I have been unable to find a good substitute new model.  I would much prefer to use a new product.  Does anyone know what product would meet the specification of the original (including rated for 40A continuous current etc.)

Craig, based on your advice, I am looking for a place where I can get the rewinding of the stator or rotor done.  It was really great to read that it is not necessary to remove the generator.  I will see around Sardinia, or points West of here.  Much appreciated!

--
Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
Currently in Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy.

Re: Shore power contactor burnt out

Eamonn Washington
 

The full description of the original contactor is LC1-D25008-M7.  It is discontinued.  I have ordered a used one on ebay, so I could eventually do a like for like swap, but I have been unable to find a good substitute new model.  I would much prefer to use a new product.  Does anyone know what product would meet the specification of the original (including rated for 40A continuous current etc.)

Craig, based on your advice, I am looking for a place where I can get the rewinding of the stator or rotor done.  It was really great to read that it is not necessary to remove the generator.  I will see around Sardinia, or points West of here.  Much appreciated!

--
Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
Currently in Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy.