Date   
Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill, I have never done that freshwater rinse and have not had the problem, I wondered why and then realised rain does quite a good job. Perhaps where I am and have been has more regular rainfall.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 24 July 2019 at 02:35 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

What I have seen happen is that salt accumulates where the stainless steel tubing is crimped and folded over the shrouds and held in place with a bolt. 

This is an important area to rinse with freshwater after each sailing and weekly if in harbour. Salt that has accumulated on the entire length of the shroud will run down the shroud and accumulate at this point. Freshwater rinsing solves the issue.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:37 PM Ian < parkianj@...> wrote:
Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: Water maker Questions

Matt Salatino
 

Sodium metabisulphite is a pickling solution. It’s only meant to keep organisms from fouling your membranes while the boat is stored, and watermaker isn’t being used.
There are two cleaning chemicals:
Sodium Hydroxide, for organic.
Citric Acid, for mineral deposits.
Doing a search inline will reveal sources (ebay is one) and concentrations.
Good luck.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jul 23, 2019, at 1:05 PM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay



Water maker Questions

Thomas Peacock
 

I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

Dessslator HP hoses

Alan Grayson
 

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Stascavage
 

No problem Duane. I hope not to need them for a while.  The tools are going out USPS today. 

All the best

Paul

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

I ordert one by Amel 4 weeks ago 
For SM 222 
I think the will have in Stok 
It is not possibel to order by Leroy somer ore other way only by Amel 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 23.07.2019 um 18:26 schrieb Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...>:

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Samantha Jane Bartlett
 

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Paul S (Rita Kathryn),

That's very generous of you!   We won't return to Grenada until 9/26, and then it will take a bit to do the work.  It will be as late as the end of October before I would return them, if that's a problem just let me know.  Please put a note in with the tools for the customs people in Grenada that this is a loan of tools from one private party to another with your address for me to return them to.  The shipping address is: Duane Siegfried, 1036 Falcon Crest Court, Staunton, IL 62088.

We hope to run into you again soon!

Thanks again,
Duane

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

https://rover.ebay.de/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fp%2F1558229770%3Fiid%3D380853144749

He Olaf schau doch mal das könnte passen 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 22.07.2019 um 20:00 schrieb Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...>:

Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

<campanionway locker 1.JPG>

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

 

What I have seen happen is that salt accumulates where the stainless steel tubing is crimped and folded over the shrouds and held in place with a bolt. 

This is an important area to rinse with freshwater after each sailing and weekly if in harbour. Salt that has accumulated on the entire length of the shroud will run down the shroud and accumulate at this point. Freshwater rinsing solves the issue.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:37 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Paul,

I'll do that.  I plan to put them in the Files section.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Roque,

Thats fantastic!  Thank you!  Now I can fabricate the tool and take it back to Grenada with me.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:

The removal of the end cap (called "Bearing Cap" in the exploded parts diagrams, item #2) was the most difficult part of the Autoprop overhaul for me.  The two-peg tool I bought from Brunton was totally inadequate (bent within seconds and became useless).  It is my belief that this cap was assembled at the factory with a locking sealant.  At any rate, manufacture a 4 peg tool using the dimensions posted by another member in this thread.  Those dimensions are correct.  The pegs will need to be hardened steel (you can use drill bit shanks).
A SS two pin tool most likely won't work.  When the time comes to remove the bearing cap/end caps, heat the cap with a heat gun (you want to loosen any locktite with heat NOT heat damage the metal), apply your tool tightly (two people with gloves so you don't get burned, one to hold the tool in place and one to apply the torque) and turn in an anti-clockwise direction.  Note that this is most easily accomplished with the prop on the boat so it is held in place as you apply your torque.  My notes are that all threads on the auto prop are right hand threads (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) EXCEPT FOR THE THREADS OF THE TAB SCREW aka locking nut (item 4, part number H6 TRI-0221) THAT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS.

I have posted in the photos section a series of photos (search "Autoprop" in the photos section" relative to removing the races, the failed peg spanner etc.  Located there is my photo of using a socket that I ground down to produce the tool for removing the left hand treaded tab screw (called by me the "locking nut"). I did this out of desperation in Antigua and it worked well but took me several hours with a Dremmel tool and hand files.  Unfortunately I didn't make note of the size of the socket I used.    Also, in the files section, there are several rather dis-jointed posts that contain tips related to my experience with this overhaul.  It is all about the tools!!!  

Evidently the Autoprop comes in a model that doesn't have lip seals and has flooded bearings (open to sea-water).  My model has lip seals and the bearings are not flooded.  My failure was caused by the Autoprop recall when the factory failed to overhaul my prop with seals (the bearings then failed within one season).  Once I overhauled it properly it has lasted 10 years. It is still silky smooth with these precautions:
1. I never allow power washing of the Autoprop.  A power washer can easily blow water past the lip seals.   
2. I religiously lube the Autoprop upon haul out each year.  

Good luck with your overhaul and don't hesitate to make/have made your own tools.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona   Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
On the hard for hurricane season in Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Stascavage
 

Duane,

I just did the rebuild a few months ago. Supposedly, King Propulsion will loan you the tools. When I needed them there was a boat show going on somewhere and I couldn’t get a response so I ended up biting the bullet and buying them. A machine shop could make them for at least half the price.

Email me your address and I will ship them to you. You can ship them back to me when you are done. I would suggest having them made by a machine shop while you have them in your possession but not until you have used them. This way you will have some ideas for improvements.

I highly recommend watching the rebuild videos on the YouTube King Propulsion channel.

Even with the tools and using an extension for leverage, I was unable to get the end caps off. I ended up having a machine shop do that for me. Both heat and leverage were needed to get mine off.

The entire job took me much longer than I anticipated. I also found conflicting information regarding torque specifications for putting everything back together. I forget at the moment what I ended up going with but I have an accessible write up that is not accessible at the moment if you want me to look up my notes.

Write me if you have any questions.

Also a huge FYI. In the King Propulsion videos, he attacks the end caps as if they are LH threads in one video and RH in another. They are RH threads.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Exploring City Island, NY

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

Ian Park
 

Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

smiles bernard
 

Hi there 

Apparently Amel call these stainless sections ‘boomerangs’ for obvious shape based reasons.
I had crevice corrosion in all 6 shrouds on the main mast - where they passed through these boomerangs which prompted a complete replacement of all our standing rigging in Martenique this year. 

I would recommend all to have a look at there shrouds at this location. 

It’s a 5 min job to loosen the shroud clamps and move the boomerang up for a peek. 

Interestingly on my Maramu the shrouds had plastic around them at the point of passing through the boomerang clamps. I’ve since noticed that all the SMs I’ve seen since don’t have this plastic sheathing. The boomerangs just attach directly to the wire shrouds. Perhaps this causes less problems. 

I for one will be washing / moving the boomerangs frequently. I might even take them off if the boat is stationary for a while as it’s a quick job. 

Interested to hear others experience 

All the best

Miles
Maramu 162
Plymouth uk 


On 5 Jul 2019, at 23:53, sailhanoah@... wrote:

On my Sharki 127 I have the usual stainless tubing support for the strut for the spinnaker pole. The support has a clamp assembly (6 fasteners) on the cap shroud and hides a 120mm length of wire.  The spport crimps onto the lowers with just one fastener.
I am curious if an owner has experienced a corrosion problem on the cap shroud where it it hidden within the support clamp assembly.  This is a place to collect dirt and must be disassembled for inspection.

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Mark Erdos
 

Duane,

 

Buy an Adjustable Pin Wrench. I’m not sure this would fit but it gives you the idea of what to shop for: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-Piece-7-5-in-Stainless-Steel-Adjustable-Wrench-Set/1000374705

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 1:52 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Autoprop H6 Tools

 

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Osterberg
 

Duane 
During coming winter I have to service my Autoprop as well. Would appreciate if you later post some pictures and eventual problems
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Duane,

I had mine made by a local engineer years ago. Photos attached. The pins are some hard material, not mild steel.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean pearl

On 23 July 2019 at 05:51 "Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io" <carlylelk@...> wrote:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Roque
 

Duane 

Regarding the “pin holes”:

Diameter: 5 mm

Depth: 4 mm

Distance between holes ( center): 23.5 mm

The cover is curved (like a dome). 12 mm high

Sorry no info on Tab Screw

I took pictures that might help 

Roque 

Attika A54 117
Santos - Brazil 

Em seg, 22 de jul de 2019 às 14:52, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477