Date   
Re: Water maker Questions

 

Might "not taste anything," but most people cannot tolerate their drinking water with anything over 500ppm. Most people will retain water at 500ppm. Before you start abusing your body to save a few euros on membrane costs, you might want to ask your doctor.

Tom, I can't answer your question about "acceptable" in your situation because I don't believe you gave specifics in ocean water. Watermaker output depends on many things, including pressure, membranes, pressure maintained, salt content of the water, and even temperature. Your D60 new membranes should produce 1 liter a minute +/-10% when making freshwater from ocean water and a pressure of 50 BAR on the outside of the membranes. If your membranes are 2 years old, the TDS should be around 250 after about 5 minutes of production. In 1 hour the TDS may improve slightly.

It is true that Dessalator has waffled on what is good quality in terms of TDS. The WHO states 500ppm or less. Spectra Watermakers say 1000ppm, or less (a laugh everytime I hear this). Judy and I changed membranes about every 4 years because we could definitely tell when the TDS moved above 325-350.

I hope this helps.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 2:01 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
You won’t taste anything in your water below 1000 ppm tds.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jul 23, 2019, at 2:51 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Tom,
500 ppm is considered the upper limit, anything below that is acceptable for drinking water. However once the membranes get to the point of delivering either 500ppm of close to it they are arriving at replacement time. 280 is acceptable and of course at start up you will see higher levels. My duo 60 has manual controls and I run product water to waste for a couple of minutes after start up. So long as the tds goes down to an acceptable quite quickly dilution would deal with it. 0.75l/m is not far off 60 l/h the and if you give the watermaker some long use you may find you get it up there. So in summary. 500ppm is the upper limit but you wont die if it is a little higher. Anything in the mid 300 and below is quite acceptable. Once my tds gets over 400ppm on a regular basis I start planning for replacement. Like anything, the best treatment is regular use.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 24 July 2019 at 05:05 Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay






Re: Dessslator HP hoses

 

Alan,

FYI, I bought 2 high pressure hydraulic hoses 6' long with stainless steel 3/8" JIC Flare end fittings crimped on both ends of the hoses for about $200.

Don't forget about your Yacht School Discount at Dessalator.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 1:58 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hello Alan,

You can get great quality hoses from an hydraulic shop which services the dairy industry with food grade components.

I went that route and never had a problem with My Dessalator.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain 
Eleuthera, SM 007, Fiji


On 24 Jul 2019, at 03:46, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

 

The issue is light rain or humid mornings will cause the salt to run down the shroud. Heavy rain will rinse everything very good.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 1:30 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Bill, I have never done that freshwater rinse and have not had the problem, I wondered why and then realised rain does quite a good job. Perhaps where I am and have been has more regular rainfall.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 24 July 2019 at 02:35 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

What I have seen happen is that salt accumulates where the stainless steel tubing is crimped and folded over the shrouds and held in place with a bolt. 

This is an important area to rinse with freshwater after each sailing and weekly if in harbour. Salt that has accumulated on the entire length of the shroud will run down the shroud and accumulate at this point. Freshwater rinsing solves the issue.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:37 PM Ian < parkianj@...> wrote:
Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

 

BE CAREFUL. A Maramu is a 12 volt boat and a Super Maramu is 24 volt. The motors are different: Apples:Oranges.

Samantha, it may not be possible to replace with OEM devices on a 30 year old boat, but if anyone can do it, it is Amel.

You should follow the instructions on the attached to order a part. If you are asking Amel where you can buy the motor or how to contact Leroy Somers, you are absolutely asking the wrong question. You should be requesting a quote and you should include all of the steps outlined in the attached.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 10:42 AM Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...> wrote:
I ordert one by Amel 4 weeks ago 
For SM 222 
I think the will have in Stok 
It is not possibel to order by Leroy somer ore other way only by Amel 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 23.07.2019 um 18:26 schrieb Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...>:

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

Re: Water maker Questions

Matt Salatino
 

You won’t taste anything in your water below 1000 ppm tds.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jul 23, 2019, at 2:51 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Tom,
500 ppm is considered the upper limit, anything below that is acceptable for drinking water. However once the membranes get to the point of delivering either 500ppm of close to it they are arriving at replacement time. 280 is acceptable and of course at start up you will see higher levels. My duo 60 has manual controls and I run product water to waste for a couple of minutes after start up. So long as the tds goes down to an acceptable quite quickly dilution would deal with it. 0.75l/m is not far off 60 l/h the and if you give the watermaker some long use you may find you get it up there. So in summary. 500ppm is the upper limit but you wont die if it is a little higher. Anything in the mid 300 and below is quite acceptable. Once my tds gets over 400ppm on a regular basis I start planning for replacement. Like anything, the best treatment is regular use.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 24 July 2019 at 05:05 Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay






Re: Dessslator HP hoses

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Alan,

You can get great quality hoses from an hydraulic shop which services the dairy industry with food grade components.

I went that route and never had a problem with My Dessalator.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain 
Eleuthera, SM 007, Fiji


On 24 Jul 2019, at 03:46, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD

Re: Water maker Questions

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Tom,
500 ppm is considered the upper limit, anything below that is acceptable for drinking water. However once the membranes get to the point of delivering either 500ppm of close to it they are arriving at replacement time. 280 is acceptable and of course at start up you will see higher levels. My duo 60 has manual controls and I run product water to waste for a couple of minutes after start up. So long as the tds goes down to an acceptable quite quickly dilution would deal with it. 0.75l/m is not far off 60 l/h the and if you give the watermaker some long use you may find you get it up there. So in summary. 500ppm is the upper limit but you wont die if it is a little higher. Anything in the mid 300 and below is quite acceptable. Once my tds gets over 400ppm on a regular basis I start planning for replacement. Like anything, the best treatment is regular use.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 24 July 2019 at 05:05 Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill, I have never done that freshwater rinse and have not had the problem, I wondered why and then realised rain does quite a good job. Perhaps where I am and have been has more regular rainfall.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 24 July 2019 at 02:35 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

What I have seen happen is that salt accumulates where the stainless steel tubing is crimped and folded over the shrouds and held in place with a bolt. 

This is an important area to rinse with freshwater after each sailing and weekly if in harbour. Salt that has accumulated on the entire length of the shroud will run down the shroud and accumulate at this point. Freshwater rinsing solves the issue.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:37 PM Ian < parkianj@...> wrote:
Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: Water maker Questions

Matt Salatino
 

Sodium metabisulphite is a pickling solution. It’s only meant to keep organisms from fouling your membranes while the boat is stored, and watermaker isn’t being used.
There are two cleaning chemicals:
Sodium Hydroxide, for organic.
Citric Acid, for mineral deposits.
Doing a search inline will reveal sources (ebay is one) and concentrations.
Good luck.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Jul 23, 2019, at 1:05 PM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay



Water maker Questions

Thomas Peacock
 

I’m hoping to get a few tips on our water maker. We have a LaRochelle installed Dessalator, I believe a D60, SM 240, 24 volts only. We have used it only sporadically.
I put new membranes in 2 years ago. I am trying to be sure it works properly, we are in the Chesapeake Bay, which is only brackish water so we don’t use it there. Going to Martinique this fall.
The Dessalator manual at one point says we should have 250 TDS, at another it says 500, which certainly tastes brackish.
At 40 bar we get 270, at 60 bar about 330, which then goes down to 280 after about 5 minutes. We get 0.75 liters/minute.
Is this acceptable performance? I am more concerned about the TDS than the rate. I would like to clean the membranes as suggested by Dessalator, all they say is “cleaning solution”. Is this the same as the pickling compound, sodium metabisulfite?
Thanks as always for everyone’s insights.
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

Dessslator HP hoses

Alan Grayson
 

Hi All, im about to order new HP hoses from the dessalator rep in the US. The end fittings are reusable and so you only need to buy the hose unless like me one of your ends are damaged.
There are 2 options for this.
1: buy the hose from France and any ends that you need. Hose $40 fittings $93.00 each, shipping $70
2: buy new hose and ends from the US. the hose is different and the fittings are slightly different with the same threaded ends. They are not interchangeable. Cost of 2 new hoses $472.00
I'm buying the hose and 1 end fitting from France.
If anyone else wants to buy either hoses or fittings from France and add to my order please let me know by Thurs 25th by noon eastern time. The order will be shipping to me in Annapolis and i'll forward from here if you pay shipping to your destination.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
Annapolis, MD

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Paul Stascavage
 

No problem Duane. I hope not to need them for a while.  The tools are going out USPS today. 

All the best

Paul

Re: 1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

I ordert one by Amel 4 weeks ago 
For SM 222 
I think the will have in Stok 
It is not possibel to order by Leroy somer ore other way only by Amel 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 23.07.2019 um 18:26 schrieb Samantha Jane Bartlett <bartlettsam@...>:

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

1986 Amel Maramu 46 Mainsail Furling Motors

Samantha Jane Bartlett
 

Hi,

I've been through all the info in the messages here and we've been trying to get an answer from Amel for weeks with no success - Our mainsail furling and outhaul motors are completely rusted up (inherited problem) and we need to replace them.  They are 3 pole motors but I can't get any info on the specs - closest I've found on here is a Leroy Somer MBT82-M?? 3,100 revs and 450W...

I've trawled the Leroy Somer website and googled for a supplier but I'm still struggling - can anyone confirm the specs and a supplier?  We've installed a work-around with a Quick windlass motor but I'm pretty sure we've overpowered it... it would be great to have some specs so that we can replace them with the right ones!

Thank you!
Sam

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Paul S (Rita Kathryn),

That's very generous of you!   We won't return to Grenada until 9/26, and then it will take a bit to do the work.  It will be as late as the end of October before I would return them, if that's a problem just let me know.  Please put a note in with the tools for the customs people in Grenada that this is a loan of tools from one private party to another with your address for me to return them to.  The shipping address is: Duane Siegfried, 1036 Falcon Crest Court, Staunton, IL 62088.

We hope to run into you again soon!

Thanks again,
Duane

Re: Companionway locker for SM2K

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

https://rover.ebay.de/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fp%2F1558229770%3Fiid%3D380853144749

He Olaf schau doch mal das könnte passen 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 22.07.2019 um 20:00 schrieb Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...>:

Hi AMELians,

 

Does anyone know where to buy the companionway locker for a SM2K or a similar one? The original one from AMEL France should cost EUR 575.00 pls taxes and fees :-o

 

Hope to get a similiar or original one significantly more favourable

 

Fair winds

Olaf

 

S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392

<campanionway locker 1.JPG>

Re: Spinnaker Pole Strut Support

 

What I have seen happen is that salt accumulates where the stainless steel tubing is crimped and folded over the shrouds and held in place with a bolt. 

This is an important area to rinse with freshwater after each sailing and weekly if in harbour. Salt that has accumulated on the entire length of the shroud will run down the shroud and accumulate at this point. Freshwater rinsing solves the issue.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 3:37 PM Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:
Miles,
On my previous boat (not an Amel) I got rid of the plastic shroud covers because they collected and held rainwater. All the wire underneath the plastic had rust marks on it.
I have moved my boomerangs and there was no real sign of corrosion. But our Santorin had no plastic covers, just clamped straight to the shrouds.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96



Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Paul,

I'll do that.  I plan to put them in the Files section.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Duane Siegfri
 

Roque,

Thats fantastic!  Thank you!  Now I can fabricate the tool and take it back to Grenada with me.

Duane

Re: Autoprop H6 Tools

Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:

The removal of the end cap (called "Bearing Cap" in the exploded parts diagrams, item #2) was the most difficult part of the Autoprop overhaul for me.  The two-peg tool I bought from Brunton was totally inadequate (bent within seconds and became useless).  It is my belief that this cap was assembled at the factory with a locking sealant.  At any rate, manufacture a 4 peg tool using the dimensions posted by another member in this thread.  Those dimensions are correct.  The pegs will need to be hardened steel (you can use drill bit shanks).
A SS two pin tool most likely won't work.  When the time comes to remove the bearing cap/end caps, heat the cap with a heat gun (you want to loosen any locktite with heat NOT heat damage the metal), apply your tool tightly (two people with gloves so you don't get burned, one to hold the tool in place and one to apply the torque) and turn in an anti-clockwise direction.  Note that this is most easily accomplished with the prop on the boat so it is held in place as you apply your torque.  My notes are that all threads on the auto prop are right hand threads (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) EXCEPT FOR THE THREADS OF THE TAB SCREW aka locking nut (item 4, part number H6 TRI-0221) THAT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS.

I have posted in the photos section a series of photos (search "Autoprop" in the photos section" relative to removing the races, the failed peg spanner etc.  Located there is my photo of using a socket that I ground down to produce the tool for removing the left hand treaded tab screw (called by me the "locking nut"). I did this out of desperation in Antigua and it worked well but took me several hours with a Dremmel tool and hand files.  Unfortunately I didn't make note of the size of the socket I used.    Also, in the files section, there are several rather dis-jointed posts that contain tips related to my experience with this overhaul.  It is all about the tools!!!  

Evidently the Autoprop comes in a model that doesn't have lip seals and has flooded bearings (open to sea-water).  My model has lip seals and the bearings are not flooded.  My failure was caused by the Autoprop recall when the factory failed to overhaul my prop with seals (the bearings then failed within one season).  Once I overhauled it properly it has lasted 10 years. It is still silky smooth with these precautions:
1. I never allow power washing of the Autoprop.  A power washer can easily blow water past the lip seals.   
2. I religiously lube the Autoprop upon haul out each year.  

Good luck with your overhaul and don't hesitate to make/have made your own tools.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona   Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
On the hard for hurricane season in Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico