Date   
Boston

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hello to the group, 
Has anyone a recommendation for a Marina in or near Boston where I can leave the boat for 3 weeks ?
Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

 

All,

Opinions:
We all have opinions, but few of us, if any, have compiled scientific data comparing anchors. This thread is full of opinions without the preface, "in my opinion."

Here is a bit of data
Wasi was the first with the "dragon tooth" "roll bar" design that other anchor manufacturers knocked off (copied). The "others" I refer to are well known manufacturers, who will publicly argue that they were not influenced by Wasi. My opinion: Ha!☺

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 11:01 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Mast cosmetic

John Clark
 

I am not sure either.  I got the Renault 348 paint code from the forum.  I tried it and found it was a match.  
That said, Amel has been making boats for decades now...so it would not surprise me if they employed different paint suppliers with similar colors from time to time. 



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 9:43 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

 

Paul,

I believe it should be a similar rule as to "when to use a preventer when sailing downwind," so my answer is: "all of the time you use the staysail (Trinket)." Wind has a habit of almost never warning us when she is going to give us a burst.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 8:43 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, if possible on another note, can you please advise me on when to use the moving back stays associated to the stay sail?

Is it only in strong winds and regardless of if using the Genoa at the same time?

Kind regards Paul A55#17


On 12 Aug 2019, at 3:23 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Mast cosmetic

 

John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Paul Brown
 

Hi Bill, if possible on another note, can you please advise me on when to use the moving back stays associated to the stay sail?

Is it only in strong winds and regardless of if using the Genoa at the same time?

Kind regards Paul A55#17


On 12 Aug 2019, at 3:23 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

 

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Engine alignment

John Clark
 

Hi David, 
  So was the vibration present before the alternator issue? 

I am trying to envision how the loose alt would affect alignment?  

Absent a problem caused as you suspect by the alternator issue, I would first inspect the prop, the motor mounts, C-Drive mounts, vetus coupling and also the status of the motor.  

Regarding motor, no chance that it is not running 100%?  Load might make a weak cylinder more evident.

Regards, John
SV Annie SM 37


  

On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 5:22 AM david bruce <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Hello all,

We are in Gaeta Italy where mechanics are trying to alleviate a mild but distinct engine vibration noted under load.  I'd rather not go into how this occurred but suffice it to say that moving a boat a few hundred meters at idle to a travel lift minus the stb forward alternator bracket in place is not a good idea.  (bracket was being welded after breaking and landing alt on spinning spline pulley)

 Our well intentioned but seemingly flummoxed non English speaking mechanics have us decoupled ( engine/transmission, not marriage) and best I can tell are ruminating on a fix.  I absolutely don't want to make matters worse.  

Any advice on what to do or advise them or what specifically NOT to do at this point would be greatly appreciated.  i think finding someone with significant Amel experience nearby is highly unlikely. 

Thanks so much for any advisement. 

Best regards,  

Dave Bruce 
sv Liesse   SN006


 

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go. I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

Sent from my iPhone X

Re: Engine alignment

 

David,

Some mechanics have aligned without a special alignment tool (a fixed coupling) designed and made by Amel and easily duplicated in a machine shop. I think perfect alignment without a fixed coupling is 99% luck rather than skill. The alignment is done with the tool, then the engine is slid forward and the tool replaced with a Vetus Coupling. 

When the Vetus Coupling is removed, be sure to check the Rubber Bushings inside (sold separately). This is a drawing of that tool for a Super Maramu. Be sure to check the shaft size on your Santorin:
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:22 AM david bruce <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Hello all,

We are in Gaeta Italy where mechanics are trying to alleviate a mild but distinct engine vibration noted under load.  I'd rather not go into how this occurred but suffice it to say that moving a boat a few hundred meters at idle to a travel lift minus the stb forward alternator bracket in place is not a good idea.  (bracket was being welded after breaking and landing alt on spinning spline pulley)

 Our well intentioned but seemingly flummoxed non English speaking mechanics have us decoupled ( engine/transmission, not marriage) and best I can tell are ruminating on a fix.  I absolutely don't want to make matters worse.  

Any advice on what to do or advise them or what specifically NOT to do at this point would be greatly appreciated.  i think finding someone with significant Amel experience nearby is highly unlikely. 

Thanks so much for any advisement. 

Best regards,  

Dave Bruce 
sv Liesse   SN006


 

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Miles
 

Hi Dean,

 

I am glad that you were able to decipher my description.  And, yes it is import to get antifreeze into the flow-meter tube.  I have a hand pump that I use to get propylene glycol into the tube and surrounding output tubes.

 

Regards,

 

Miles

s/y Ladybug, sm 216, moored in Newport, RI harbor

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

islandpearl2_sm2k332
 

Hey Alan

Nice to hear from you. I think my "Colin.Streeter14" Facebook "LIKES" went down by 50% when you shut down your FB account and I lost half my friends:)! 

I had been wondering what you have been up to, and which of your latest upgrades to the lovely SV Elyse I could copy next and implement too. Sorry to hear about the generator, and hope that gets quickly resolved. How many hours on it now?

Sorry to miss you but will try to ensure I meet you in Australia some time. You probably noticed that we are going to sell Island Pearl at the end of this circumnavigation, and this is surely going to break my heart. Anyhow all good things must come to an end and so I am already turning my mind to what to do next, probably an RV trip around Australia for a few years for a start...?

Best regards
Colin





On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 9:27 PM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hello 
Danny,
I see Ocean Pearl on F pier Opua (we're on G), I wondered what you were up to.... haven't seen anyone on the boat...mind you I've had my head down tail up for the last week with generator problems and other issues...going home tomorrow in the am.

Colin, 
Been following your exploits with interest, you've done really well.

Pity I will miss both of you, Elyse isn't going anywhere until next year.

Fair winds

Alan
Elyse SM437



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Alan Leslie
 

Hello 
Danny,
I see Ocean Pearl on F pier Opua (we're on G), I wondered what you were up to.... haven't seen anyone on the boat...mind you I've had my head down tail up for the last week with generator problems and other issues...going home tomorrow in the am.

Colin, 
Been following your exploits with interest, you've done really well.

Pity I will miss both of you, Elyse isn't going anywhere until next year.

Fair winds

Alan
Elyse SM437

Engine alignment

david bruce
 

Hello all,

We are in Gaeta Italy where mechanics are trying to alleviate a mild but distinct engine vibration noted under load.  I'd rather not go into how this occurred but suffice it to say that moving a boat a few hundred meters at idle to a travel lift minus the stb forward alternator bracket in place is not a good idea.  (bracket was being welded after breaking and landing alt on spinning spline pulley)

 Our well intentioned but seemingly flummoxed non English speaking mechanics have us decoupled ( engine/transmission, not marriage) and best I can tell are ruminating on a fix.  I absolutely don't want to make matters worse.  

Any advice on what to do or advise them or what specifically NOT to do at this point would be greatly appreciated.  i think finding someone with significant Amel experience nearby is highly unlikely. 

Thanks so much for any advisement. 

Best regards,  

Dave Bruce 
sv Liesse   SN006


 

Re: ONAN Generator not starting

Alan Leslie
 

Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

islandpearl2_sm2k332
 

Hi Danny

Awesome, let's take this off-line to svislandpearl@... email address, but it would be really nice to meet, and also have Amel "Island Pearl" meet "Ocean Pearl" as previously planned had we sailed to New Zealand!. We very much look forward to that.

Our rough plan is to be in Tonga (Vavua Group only) from late this week (if we get some wind) for a couple of weeks, then over to Fiji by 27th August. We will clear in at Savusavu and, since this will be our first time in Fiji, we are looking for advice regarding the very best anchorages and places to visit for an approx. 3-week stay. 

Our new sails arrive from QSails at Port Devaru in the first week of September, but other than that commitment, our time is pretty open. We will clear out of Fiji on approx 21 Sept and head over to the Loyalty Islands for a special rally clearance, and then spend October cruising New Caledonia. Around 23rd October we sail for Brisbane (or possibly Bundaberg) and for this last leg of our circumnavigation to Australia we have joined the "Down Under Rally" as this enables the special Loyalty Islands clearance, in addition to providing many other valuable to us benefits and discounts back in Australia, including at our favourite Gold Coast "Boat Works" yard where we will haul out in Nov/Dec.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, sm#332
Niue
Sat phone (brief texts only) +8816 2348 5491


On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 6:10 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Colin, we are departing NZ for Fiji this week, planning Wednesday so perhaps the two Pearls may meet. Later we are considering a summer cruise of the Australian east coast, Brisbane and south. Might be able to pick your brains.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 August 2019 at 17:23 islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

You are spot-on as usual. Especially when it comes to power consumption, we all use these boat very differently, and hence my rather practical detailed examples to illustrate this down to cooking preferences. Even on our boat, the different patterns of usage and issues are totally different between a husband and wife situation now, and for the one year when I had crew join me.

Yes, the lucky new owner of this boat is going to get a huge amount of detailed information about precisely every change we made. Also, since we are only the 2nd owners, and the first owner had Amel deliver the new boat to him, and then fell ill and never used it, but employed an Amel technician to care for it for 10 years, I am the only person who has ever changed anything at all, so it will all be there.

By the way, thank you for your kind assistance with the total set of new sails we ordered. These are almost ready for delivery to us now, and waiting for when we arrive in Fiji.

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, 2001 SM #332
Niue, Pacific
Where is Island Pearl now, and where has she been? ... click here...  https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2






On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:54 AM CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
Colin, 

Very understandable with lots of actual and current information. Thanks for that.

There are many ways to cruise and many more methods to power your requirements aboard an Amel. When we account for personal needs and wishes, it is easy for anyone to clearly see that no one solution will fit everyone. In fact, it is likely that no single solution fits anyone else's.

When you turnover your Amel to new owners, be sure that what you've added and modified is completely documented and understood.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 11, 2019, 6:22 AM islandpearl2_sm2k332 < colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
Hi Scott

In answer to your questions, here is a pic of the boat from the drone we took recently in Marquesas showing you where the solar and wind gens are located. (We have 540W on the davits plus 500w above the cockpit. Unlike Delos who placed the wind gens at the rear, we placed another small handy arch in front of the Emerek arch to brace it even further for a much heavier dinghy (if ever required), and this is also where I now also have handy space for anything I wish to mount in the future such as security cameras, lights, the IridiumGo Cruiser package dome aerial etc..etc. By locating the wind gens here, I feel it is more away from shading the panels,(but no doubt does shade bits of them at times?). Although we have Victron equipment (eg Victron 3000w inverter / 70amp 24v charger) and remote controls, I did not bother to add the fancy Victron monitoring tools, but have not really noticed any reduction in solar output since adding the 2nd arch and 2 x wind gens. 

We have covered a lot of distance in the past two years so I find we are often full of power, and simply dumping excess solar/wind power generated. For that reason, and without having Lithium (where due to lower weight and space requirements, I would be very tempted to add much more battery storage capacity to capture that all excess power for rainy weeks)  I am far less interested in the cumulative solar or wind power generated than I am in  when it is generated eg at night or on cloudy/rainy days .

In terms of the Duo 100 watermaker, we have at times run it in good sunny periods just on the batteries, but that has only been for incremental water after poor planning on our part. After cruising the boat permanently for just over two years, we have become far smarter at forward planning our water and energy requirements, and picking the best times to run the watermaker. Possibly this has been easier for us than for most as we have done over 30,000 nm in this time, (see our live tracker page link here:   https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2 )  so have sailed and motor sailed a lot, and thus had far more opportunity than most to not run the genset. Also, these days it is just Lauren and me on the boat, and with a 1000L water tank, it is has been very rare indeed that we have ever put the genset on to make water, in fact, I cannot even remember a recent time we had to do this. Previously when we had 3 crew on board, with everyone using the showers, electric kettle, etc in a much less coordinated way, we simply could not plan our energy usage to the same level, and the genset was on daily.

On passages there are very often times when you will need to motor sail, (for example last week on the 1200nm passage from Bora Bora to Niue we had just 4kts - 9kts of wind for 4 long days! ouch!) and that's a prime example of when we like to make most our water, as I am then looking for ways to dump all that excess power, especially when the sun is also shining and when the batteries are already 100%. What I prefer to do on these occasions is to use the inverter and then run the Duo on 230v ac (rather than on 24v dc), as I find it slightly faster than on DC.

Regarding the Induction Stove, we purchased a "home-style" above kitchen benchtop "Phillips brand" plugin induction stove. These are pretty inexpensive nowadays and are awesome little units if you get a good quality brand name.  Our one has power options of 1800w, 1200w, 800w, 400w and is amazingly fast! So, for example, knowing we have a 3000w inverter, and we tend not to load it more than 2500w at any one time (eg computer, 1200w stove fast boiling, 750w microwave & plenty reserve) if possible, and so we have learned to adjust both the microwave power watts, and the stovetop watts as needed, for example, the rice pot on the induction comes onto the boil,(then down to 400w) and the veggies in the microwave need 900w instead of 750w to cook faster.  

The Phillips induction stove is one hotplate only glass top unit, and it fits perfectly on top of the standard Amel gas stove, and clips in under the existing pot holder steel rails. The great thing about this is it is perfectly gimballed and we have often had, for example, a huge pot of curry cooking there in 3m+ waves and it stays perfectly on the stovetop, but we still need to think about designing a decent stainless set of pot clamps for the little induction unit, just in case! Of course, being a benchtop model, we then also have the option of moving it onto the side benchtop too, and then using both gas cookers and induction, but this has never yet been necessary for us. Our gas usage is so seldom that we last filled our propane gas up in Mauritius 1 year ago and it is still full!

The last point I should mention is your hot water system (as this is normally the only time when we sometimes need to run the genset now, unplanned .for 15 - 20mins at night. (for the Admiral's shower). We decided to replace our hot water boiler with a new 1200w model (previously 600 or 700w?) unit in 2017 just before cruising. This is amazingly fast and cuts down the heating time (and hence ad hoc unplanned genset use time too!) from 50mins to less than 20mins approx for 40L. We can, and sometimes do, simply heat it via the inverter from the batteries if the wind is blowing hard at night etc.., but when I sell the boat later this year, I would probably advise the new owner to think carefully about this in term of his/her needs and crew plans, and potentially remove this option (ie. to run it off batteries) as one could easily have a new crew member turn it on and forget, and then run down the house batteries far faster than one might like!

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II  , SM #332. (for sale in November in Australia when we complete our circumnavigation - contact me or the broker)
Niue (& Tonga next week)




On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 4:43 AM Scott SV Tengah < sv.tengah@...> wrote:
Colin,

Good to hear from you! It's amazing we're now so far apart given we were nearly next to each other just a few months ago.

That's great that you have so much generation capacity. So you can run the water maker (25amps) and induction (80+ amps) from your non-lithium batteries? I never tried that on my previous gel batteries because of lack of a capable inverter, but I didn't think it would have worked. One "weakness" of my current system is that I can't replenish, via renewable sources, all the power we use. With our current usage level, it doesn't make sense to have more than 450AH capacity because we don't generate enough renewable power daily so it's a question of how often we have to run the genset. Where do you have all that solar? Just on the arch or elsewhere too?

Do you have longer term data on the output of the Rutlands? I have heard so many conflicting stories on what people "think" their wind generators output on a daily basis. It would be interesting to see what they produce on average, over the course of months, in the normal trade wind circumnavigation route. Also, what about noise/hum/resonance?

Also where do you have them mounted? If I were to add them, I would put one on the mizzen mast and that's it. I have tested minor shading on the panels and even with my parallel wired 3 panel setup, solar output drops considerably with shading. I'm concerned that the solar reduction attributed to shading via a setup like Delos with the windgens located nearly directly above the panels would cancel out any output from the windgen. Lithium will not make windgens, if they produce considerable power, unnecessary. I would love to have more renewable generation capacity.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Colin, we are departing NZ for Fiji this week, planning Wednesday so perhaps the two Pearls may meet. Later we are considering a summer cruise of the Australian east coast, Brisbane and south. Might be able to pick your brains.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 August 2019 at 17:23 islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

You are spot-on as usual. Especially when it comes to power consumption, we all use these boat very differently, and hence my rather practical detailed examples to illustrate this down to cooking preferences. Even on our boat, the different patterns of usage and issues are totally different between a husband and wife situation now, and for the one year when I had crew join me.

Yes, the lucky new owner of this boat is going to get a huge amount of detailed information about precisely every change we made. Also, since we are only the 2nd owners, and the first owner had Amel deliver the new boat to him, and then fell ill and never used it, but employed an Amel technician to care for it for 10 years, I am the only person who has ever changed anything at all, so it will all be there.

By the way, thank you for your kind assistance with the total set of new sails we ordered. These are almost ready for delivery to us now, and waiting for when we arrive in Fiji.

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, 2001 SM #332
Niue, Pacific
Where is Island Pearl now, and where has she been? ... click here...  https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2






On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:54 AM CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
Colin, 

Very understandable with lots of actual and current information. Thanks for that.

There are many ways to cruise and many more methods to power your requirements aboard an Amel. When we account for personal needs and wishes, it is easy for anyone to clearly see that no one solution will fit everyone. In fact, it is likely that no single solution fits anyone else's.

When you turnover your Amel to new owners, be sure that what you've added and modified is completely documented and understood.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 11, 2019, 6:22 AM islandpearl2_sm2k332 < colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
Hi Scott

In answer to your questions, here is a pic of the boat from the drone we took recently in Marquesas showing you where the solar and wind gens are located. (We have 540W on the davits plus 500w above the cockpit. Unlike Delos who placed the wind gens at the rear, we placed another small handy arch in front of the Emerek arch to brace it even further for a much heavier dinghy (if ever required), and this is also where I now also have handy space for anything I wish to mount in the future such as security cameras, lights, the IridiumGo Cruiser package dome aerial etc..etc. By locating the wind gens here, I feel it is more away from shading the panels,(but no doubt does shade bits of them at times?). Although we have Victron equipment (eg Victron 3000w inverter / 70amp 24v charger) and remote controls, I did not bother to add the fancy Victron monitoring tools, but have not really noticed any reduction in solar output since adding the 2nd arch and 2 x wind gens. 

We have covered a lot of distance in the past two years so I find we are often full of power, and simply dumping excess solar/wind power generated. For that reason, and without having Lithium (where due to lower weight and space requirements, I would be very tempted to add much more battery storage capacity to capture that all excess power for rainy weeks)  I am far less interested in the cumulative solar or wind power generated than I am in  when it is generated eg at night or on cloudy/rainy days .

In terms of the Duo 100 watermaker, we have at times run it in good sunny periods just on the batteries, but that has only been for incremental water after poor planning on our part. After cruising the boat permanently for just over two years, we have become far smarter at forward planning our water and energy requirements, and picking the best times to run the watermaker. Possibly this has been easier for us than for most as we have done over 30,000 nm in this time, (see our live tracker page link here:   https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2 )  so have sailed and motor sailed a lot, and thus had far more opportunity than most to not run the genset. Also, these days it is just Lauren and me on the boat, and with a 1000L water tank, it is has been very rare indeed that we have ever put the genset on to make water, in fact, I cannot even remember a recent time we had to do this. Previously when we had 3 crew on board, with everyone using the showers, electric kettle, etc in a much less coordinated way, we simply could not plan our energy usage to the same level, and the genset was on daily.

On passages there are very often times when you will need to motor sail, (for example last week on the 1200nm passage from Bora Bora to Niue we had just 4kts - 9kts of wind for 4 long days! ouch!) and that's a prime example of when we like to make most our water, as I am then looking for ways to dump all that excess power, especially when the sun is also shining and when the batteries are already 100%. What I prefer to do on these occasions is to use the inverter and then run the Duo on 230v ac (rather than on 24v dc), as I find it slightly faster than on DC.

Regarding the Induction Stove, we purchased a "home-style" above kitchen benchtop "Phillips brand" plugin induction stove. These are pretty inexpensive nowadays and are awesome little units if you get a good quality brand name.  Our one has power options of 1800w, 1200w, 800w, 400w and is amazingly fast! So, for example, knowing we have a 3000w inverter, and we tend not to load it more than 2500w at any one time (eg computer, 1200w stove fast boiling, 750w microwave & plenty reserve) if possible, and so we have learned to adjust both the microwave power watts, and the stovetop watts as needed, for example, the rice pot on the induction comes onto the boil,(then down to 400w) and the veggies in the microwave need 900w instead of 750w to cook faster.  

The Phillips induction stove is one hotplate only glass top unit, and it fits perfectly on top of the standard Amel gas stove, and clips in under the existing pot holder steel rails. The great thing about this is it is perfectly gimballed and we have often had, for example, a huge pot of curry cooking there in 3m+ waves and it stays perfectly on the stovetop, but we still need to think about designing a decent stainless set of pot clamps for the little induction unit, just in case! Of course, being a benchtop model, we then also have the option of moving it onto the side benchtop too, and then using both gas cookers and induction, but this has never yet been necessary for us. Our gas usage is so seldom that we last filled our propane gas up in Mauritius 1 year ago and it is still full!

The last point I should mention is your hot water system (as this is normally the only time when we sometimes need to run the genset now, unplanned .for 15 - 20mins at night. (for the Admiral's shower). We decided to replace our hot water boiler with a new 1200w model (previously 600 or 700w?) unit in 2017 just before cruising. This is amazingly fast and cuts down the heating time (and hence ad hoc unplanned genset use time too!) from 50mins to less than 20mins approx for 40L. We can, and sometimes do, simply heat it via the inverter from the batteries if the wind is blowing hard at night etc.., but when I sell the boat later this year, I would probably advise the new owner to think carefully about this in term of his/her needs and crew plans, and potentially remove this option (ie. to run it off batteries) as one could easily have a new crew member turn it on and forget, and then run down the house batteries far faster than one might like!

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II  , SM #332. (for sale in November in Australia when we complete our circumnavigation - contact me or the broker)
Niue (& Tonga next week)




On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 4:43 AM Scott SV Tengah < sv.tengah@...> wrote:
Colin,

Good to hear from you! It's amazing we're now so far apart given we were nearly next to each other just a few months ago.

That's great that you have so much generation capacity. So you can run the water maker (25amps) and induction (80+ amps) from your non-lithium batteries? I never tried that on my previous gel batteries because of lack of a capable inverter, but I didn't think it would have worked. One "weakness" of my current system is that I can't replenish, via renewable sources, all the power we use. With our current usage level, it doesn't make sense to have more than 450AH capacity because we don't generate enough renewable power daily so it's a question of how often we have to run the genset. Where do you have all that solar? Just on the arch or elsewhere too?

Do you have longer term data on the output of the Rutlands? I have heard so many conflicting stories on what people "think" their wind generators output on a daily basis. It would be interesting to see what they produce on average, over the course of months, in the normal trade wind circumnavigation route. Also, what about noise/hum/resonance?

Also where do you have them mounted? If I were to add them, I would put one on the mizzen mast and that's it. I have tested minor shading on the panels and even with my parallel wired 3 panel setup, solar output drops considerably with shading. I'm concerned that the solar reduction attributed to shading via a setup like Delos with the windgens located nearly directly above the panels would cancel out any output from the windgen. Lithium will not make windgens, if they produce considerable power, unnecessary. I would love to have more renewable generation capacity.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Re: ONAN Generator not starting

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Alan,

The control boards are ... expensive but I got one aboard just in case..

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Fiji.




On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:33, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill,
That all makes sense and since I've fully charged the start battery, the ONAN cranks every time.
I had been through ALL the connections including the hidden from view ones (you don't really want to get in there !) disassembled, cleaned and treated with CorrosionX.
I even put the negative lead directly to the crankcase, still no good.
But it was Mark's thread about starting the main engine that led me to it.
My little maintenance charger had died and the start battery was down a bit - I should have checked that first, so I'm not that competent !
I agree with you, there must be quite a volt drop along those long cables that feed the ONAN starting system, as you say, undersized.  
BUT with a fully charged start battery, it's not an issue.

We learn things every day.

However this is not the end of the story. While the ONAN cranks it only runs for 2 seconds and shuts down with error code 12, overvoltage.
I had the Cummins man here today and he's visually checked the diodes and condition of the windings - all looks OK, and he will come back with the tester to test the rotor and stator windings to be sure they are within spec, and if they are, he says its a fault on the control board...which means replacing the board...hmm

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437