Date   
Re: Maramu locker door mishap

 

Miles,

I have no idea how it was made by Amel, but I have years of experience with home furnishing manufacturing and was in charge of product development/engineering for one of the largest manufacturers.

If that was designed by my team, there would be one place on the track that the door would lift up high enough into the upper slot allowing you to pull the door out of the bottom slot. 

I doubt if this helps you, but I hope so.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 3:08 PM smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello

The boys managed to do some destructive testing on one of the wooden locker doors.

Has anyone managed to take these out before for varnishing or repairs?

Picture attached and slightly baffled about how to remove it for fixing the handle.

I looked to see if the wooden runners in which the slider door is mounted are detachable but that looks like a big job as I can’t see any screw heads so perhaps they are glasses over.

Any thoughts or experience much appreciated

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162



Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

 

Arno,

My opinion of the Beugel is very good. My experience with the Beugel was very good with only one anchor failure, which was not the fault of the anchor. My experience includes many areas of the world, 40,000 miles, 58 countries, and uncounted anchorages over 11 years. The remainder of my experience included all sorts of anchors and sizes of vessels. That said, it is only my experience and no 2 experiences are identical. 

"Dragon Tooth" is a term for an anchor design begun by Wasi. Wasi combined "Dragon Tooth" with the "Roll Bar." Following Wasi, several well known anchor manufacturers used this same general design. I have limited experience with the Wasi copies, but my opinion is that they are just as good...not better and not worse.

In my opinion, coupled with lots of prejudice from experiences, correct anchoring technique will properly set almost any anchor and secure the vessel. And, in my experience, a good anchor doesn't make up for incorrect technique. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 2:33 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Not meant to annoy you but if you do not read forum postings with with your "opinion glasses" on there is hardly any forum you can read/participate. On the is specifi topic, getting facts about anchor behavior is close to impossible as there are so many variables at play. Even the "so called"objective anchor tests are quite synthetic and often show results that seem to be strange at least. Only if you see consistent problems with whatever anchor model across tests and peoples experiences you can assume there is some flaw in the design.

This being said I read it was actually John Bruce (Bruce anchor) that first came with the idea of a roll bar, although he never put it in practice. It is also a well known argument that Bruce anchors are among the best but they do not scale very well and although many drilling platforms rely on the design, it's performance is mediocre in the 15-50 kg range.

But my question was not about the holding capabilities of the Buegel. My problem with the anchor is that it sits poorly on the bow of a 54.
My own experience using the anchor is very limited and from what I read seems to concur with other experiences that the anchor does not like weed on the bottom but works fine in sand/mud.

Regards,

Arno
Cheers,

Arno


So Buegel may claim this rollbar fame, but it's a shared fame.

Maramu locker door mishap

smiles bernard
 

Hello

The boys managed to do some destructive testing on one of the wooden locker doors.

Has anyone managed to take these out before for varnishing or repairs?

Picture attached and slightly baffled about how to remove it for fixing the handle.

I looked to see if the wooden runners in which the slider door is mounted are detachable but that looks like a big job as I can’t see any screw heads so perhaps they are glasses over.

Any thoughts or experience much appreciated

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

Mark McGovern
 

Dean,

No problem.  You should be able to clean up your flowmeter glass as it all comes apart pretty easily.  On the SM Amel wired it with plenty of slack so I could drop it on the galley counter and work on it.  I do wonder how the glass got dirty, however, as it should only ever be exposed to "clean" product water that came directly from the watermaker.  So that is a bit odd. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

Not meant to annoy you but if you do not read forum postings with with your "opinion glasses" on there is hardly any forum you can read/participate. On the is specifi topic, getting facts about anchor behavior is close to impossible as there are so many variables at play. Even the "so called"objective anchor tests are quite synthetic and often show results that seem to be strange at least. Only if you see consistent problems with whatever anchor model across tests and peoples experiences you can assume there is some flaw in the design.

This being said I read it was actually John Bruce (Bruce anchor) that first came with the idea of a roll bar, although he never put it in practice. It is also a well known argument that Bruce anchors are among the best but they do not scale very well and although many drilling platforms rely on the design, it's performance is mediocre in the 15-50 kg range.

But my question was not about the holding capabilities of the Buegel. My problem with the anchor is that it sits poorly on the bow of a 54.
My own experience using the anchor is very limited and from what I read seems to concur with other experiences that the anchor does not like weed on the bottom but works fine in sand/mud.

Regards,

Arno
Cheers,

Arno


So Buegel may claim this rollbar fame, but it's a shared fame.

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Laurens Vos
 

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

SY STELLA
 

Just found the answer to the dehumidifier drainage question in another thread about wintering. Use the depth transducer hole. Perfect!
I love this forum.

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Alin, we will be there today doing final prep for tomorrow.

Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2019 at 21:27 Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

Hello 
Danny,
I see Ocean Pearl on F pier Opua (we're on G), I wondered what you were up to.... haven't seen anyone on the boat...mind you I've had my head down tail up for the last week with generator problems and other issues...going home tomorrow in the am.

Colin, 
Been following your exploits with interest, you've done really well.

Pity I will miss both of you, Elyse isn't going anywhere until next year.

Fair winds

Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

SY STELLA
 

Hi Mark,
Thanks for the pics and detailed info.  I’ve ordered 10 gallons of the pink antifreeze, and a couple of heaters too!   My flowmeter is a little ‘grubby’ looking as shown in the attachment. It doesn’t affect the water quality, but I might talk to CT Platon about getting a replacement if I can’t find a way to disassemble and clean it up.  

Your picture of the outlet pipework also gave me an idea to see if I can find a suitable access to drain a dehumidifier (by gravity) into the watermaker outlet pipework. I’m really just thinking about the dehumidifier as an additional wintering measure.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154


Re: Boston

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Wolfgang,

There are a ton of marinas in Boston, and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them, so it really depends on what you're looking for and how much you're willing to pay.  Dockwa has very high (maybe even 100%) penetration here, so you can see a good overview of locations and prices on there.

If you want easy access to downtown, check out Fan Pier Marina, Boston Waterboat Marina, Boston Yacht Haven, etc.  If you want a mooring in this area, Boston Waterboat Marina has some, and sometimes Boston Sailing Center also has some.

If you want a great community, amenities, and access to public transit, check out Constitution Marina (that's where Kelly and I live, and there's also one other Super Maramu here).

If you're looking for something slightly less expensive, but still with easy access to the city, you can go to East Boston -- check out Boston Harbor Shipyard (there's a Super Maramu there, too) or Pier Park Sailing Center (moorings).  For still less expense, you can go outside the city to Sunset Bay in Hull or Hingham Shipyard in Hingham.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 1:44 PM Wolfgang Weber via Groups.Io <webercardio=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello to the group, 
Has anyone a recommendation for a Marina in or near Boston where I can leave the boat for 3 weeks ?
Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162

Boston

Wolfgang Weber
 

Hello to the group, 
Has anyone a recommendation for a Marina in or near Boston where I can leave the boat for 3 weeks ?
Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

 

All,

Opinions:
We all have opinions, but few of us, if any, have compiled scientific data comparing anchors. This thread is full of opinions without the preface, "in my opinion."

Here is a bit of data
Wasi was the first with the "dragon tooth" "roll bar" design that other anchor manufacturers knocked off (copied). The "others" I refer to are well known manufacturers, who will publicly argue that they were not influenced by Wasi. My opinion: Ha!☺

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 11:01 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Mast cosmetic

John Clark
 

I am not sure either.  I got the Renault 348 paint code from the forum.  I tried it and found it was a match.  
That said, Amel has been making boats for decades now...so it would not surprise me if they employed different paint suppliers with similar colors from time to time. 



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 9:43 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

 

Paul,

I believe it should be a similar rule as to "when to use a preventer when sailing downwind," so my answer is: "all of the time you use the staysail (Trinket)." Wind has a habit of almost never warning us when she is going to give us a burst.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 8:43 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, if possible on another note, can you please advise me on when to use the moving back stays associated to the stay sail?

Is it only in strong winds and regardless of if using the Genoa at the same time?

Kind regards Paul A55#17


On 12 Aug 2019, at 3:23 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Mast cosmetic

 

John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Paul Brown
 

Hi Bill, if possible on another note, can you please advise me on when to use the moving back stays associated to the stay sail?

Is it only in strong winds and regardless of if using the Genoa at the same time?

Kind regards Paul A55#17


On 12 Aug 2019, at 3:23 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

 

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Engine alignment

John Clark
 

Hi David, 
  So was the vibration present before the alternator issue? 

I am trying to envision how the loose alt would affect alignment?  

Absent a problem caused as you suspect by the alternator issue, I would first inspect the prop, the motor mounts, C-Drive mounts, vetus coupling and also the status of the motor.  

Regarding motor, no chance that it is not running 100%?  Load might make a weak cylinder more evident.

Regards, John
SV Annie SM 37


  

On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 5:22 AM david bruce <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Hello all,

We are in Gaeta Italy where mechanics are trying to alleviate a mild but distinct engine vibration noted under load.  I'd rather not go into how this occurred but suffice it to say that moving a boat a few hundred meters at idle to a travel lift minus the stb forward alternator bracket in place is not a good idea.  (bracket was being welded after breaking and landing alt on spinning spline pulley)

 Our well intentioned but seemingly flummoxed non English speaking mechanics have us decoupled ( engine/transmission, not marriage) and best I can tell are ruminating on a fix.  I absolutely don't want to make matters worse.  

Any advice on what to do or advise them or what specifically NOT to do at this point would be greatly appreciated.  i think finding someone with significant Amel experience nearby is highly unlikely. 

Thanks so much for any advisement. 

Best regards,  

Dave Bruce 
sv Liesse   SN006


 

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

SY STELLA
 

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go. I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

Sent from my iPhone X