Date   

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Alan Leslie
 

WARNING
Be VERY careful with Navionics in the Yasawa's. In many places they are dead wrong...eg they don't show the commonly used, and marked, channel into the Blue Lagoon from the E, just a big reef, and the reefs they show don't often correlate with reality 
ADVICE
Get hold of paper chart F5 and make good use of the Mk1 eyeball.
Cheers
Alan


Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Colin,

We’ve been in Fiji since May 6th and have done much exploration.

1st thought: good choice to clear in Savusavu.  Other Customs/Immigration stations are quite bureaucratic.  Expect the BioSecurity to be Green Nazis but quite harmless.
2nd: go to sailsouthpacific.com and buy their Sail Fiji package.
3rd:  if you don’t have it, get the Navionics Boating App for iPad.  Their sonar charts are great.
4th: plan a slog to Vanua Balavu (Lau group) and spend a few days in the Bay of Islands.  Thus far in our travels, this is one of the best.  Then after winds go East, dash over to Fulanga.  Stop where you wish on the way back North.  Pick up a mooring ball for a few days at Paradise Resort in Taveuni for days of landlubbing.  Then go to Viani Bay and dive with Marina on the White Wall etc (Less expensive than Paradise and nice anchorage… set up an anchor trip line in case you get stuck on a bommie.)  The Rainbow Reef lies N & S of the mouth of Viani Bay not in Taveuni as many guide books suggest.  (Ex diving instructor but these were some of the best dives anywhere..) The Kadavu group.  Stop at Yaukavelevu for a swim with Mantas... loads of them. Also a nice 6 Star resort.  Then back to Suva for provisions (no other interest in our opinion) and sail to Beqa for some time. Lastly to Musket Cove/Vuda/Denarau before doing the Yasawas.

You have loads of options.  :-)

Feel free to ask questions.

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Fiji.



On 12 Aug 2019, at 19:11, islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Danny

Awesome, let's take this off-line to svislandpearl@... email address, but it would be really nice to meet, and also have Amel "Island Pearl" meet "Ocean Pearl" as previously planned had we sailed to New Zealand!. We very much look forward to that.

Our rough plan is to be in Tonga (Vavua Group only) from late this week (if we get some wind) for a couple of weeks, then over to Fiji by 27th August. We will clear in at Savusavu and, since this will be our first time in Fiji, we are looking for advice regarding the very best anchorages and places to visit for an approx. 3-week stay. 

Our new sails arrive from QSails at Port Devaru in the first week of September, but other than that commitment, our time is pretty open. We will clear out of Fiji on approx 21 Sept and head over to the Loyalty Islands for a special rally clearance, and then spend October cruising New Caledonia. Around 23rd October we sail for Brisbane (or possibly Bundaberg) and for this last leg of our circumnavigation to Australia we have joined the "Down Under Rally" as this enables the special Loyalty Islands clearance, in addition to providing many other valuable to us benefits and discounts back in Australia, including at our favourite Gold Coast "Boat Works" yard where we will haul out in Nov/Dec.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, sm#332
Niue
Sat phone (brief texts only) +8816 2348 5491


On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 6:10 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Colin, we are departing NZ for Fiji this week, planning Wednesday so perhaps the two Pearls may meet. Later we are considering a summer cruise of the Australian east coast, Brisbane and south. Might be able to pick your brains.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 August 2019 at 17:23 islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Bill

You are spot-on as usual. Especially when it comes to power consumption, we all use these boat very differently, and hence my rather practical detailed examples to illustrate this down to cooking preferences. Even on our boat, the different patterns of usage and issues are totally different between a husband and wife situation now, and for the one year when I had crew join me.

Yes, the lucky new owner of this boat is going to get a huge amount of detailed information about precisely every change we made. Also, since we are only the 2nd owners, and the first owner had Amel deliver the new boat to him, and then fell ill and never used it, but employed an Amel technician to care for it for 10 years, I am the only person who has ever changed anything at all, so it will all be there.

By the way, thank you for your kind assistance with the total set of new sails we ordered. These are almost ready for delivery to us now, and waiting for when we arrive in Fiji.

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, 2001 SM #332
Niue, Pacific
Where is Island Pearl now, and where has she been? ... click here...  https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2






On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:54 AM CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
Colin, 

Very understandable with lots of actual and current information. Thanks for that.

There are many ways to cruise and many more methods to power your requirements aboard an Amel. When we account for personal needs and wishes, it is easy for anyone to clearly see that no one solution will fit everyone. In fact, it is likely that no single solution fits anyone else's.

When you turnover your Amel to new owners, be sure that what you've added and modified is completely documented and understood.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Aug 11, 2019, 6:22 AM islandpearl2_sm2k332 < colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
Hi Scott

In answer to your questions, here is a pic of the boat from the drone we took recently in Marquesas showing you where the solar and wind gens are located. (We have 540W on the davits plus 500w above the cockpit. Unlike Delos who placed the wind gens at the rear, we placed another small handy arch in front of the Emerek arch to brace it even further for a much heavier dinghy (if ever required), and this is also where I now also have handy space for anything I wish to mount in the future such as security cameras, lights, the IridiumGo Cruiser package dome aerial etc..etc. By locating the wind gens here, I feel it is more away from shading the panels,(but no doubt does shade bits of them at times?). Although we have Victron equipment (eg Victron 3000w inverter / 70amp 24v charger) and remote controls, I did not bother to add the fancy Victron monitoring tools, but have not really noticed any reduction in solar output since adding the 2nd arch and 2 x wind gens. 

We have covered a lot of distance in the past two years so I find we are often full of power, and simply dumping excess solar/wind power generated. For that reason, and without having Lithium (where due to lower weight and space requirements, I would be very tempted to add much more battery storage capacity to capture that all excess power for rainy weeks)  I am far less interested in the cumulative solar or wind power generated than I am in  when it is generated eg at night or on cloudy/rainy days .

In terms of the Duo 100 watermaker, we have at times run it in good sunny periods just on the batteries, but that has only been for incremental water after poor planning on our part. After cruising the boat permanently for just over two years, we have become far smarter at forward planning our water and energy requirements, and picking the best times to run the watermaker. Possibly this has been easier for us than for most as we have done over 30,000 nm in this time, (see our live tracker page link here:   https://forecast.predictwind.com/tra.../display/IslandPearl2 )  so have sailed and motor sailed a lot, and thus had far more opportunity than most to not run the genset. Also, these days it is just Lauren and me on the boat, and with a 1000L water tank, it is has been very rare indeed that we have ever put the genset on to make water, in fact, I cannot even remember a recent time we had to do this. Previously when we had 3 crew on board, with everyone using the showers, electric kettle, etc in a much less coordinated way, we simply could not plan our energy usage to the same level, and the genset was on daily.

On passages there are very often times when you will need to motor sail, (for example last week on the 1200nm passage from Bora Bora to Niue we had just 4kts - 9kts of wind for 4 long days! ouch!) and that's a prime example of when we like to make most our water, as I am then looking for ways to dump all that excess power, especially when the sun is also shining and when the batteries are already 100%. What I prefer to do on these occasions is to use the inverter and then run the Duo on 230v ac (rather than on 24v dc), as I find it slightly faster than on DC.

Regarding the Induction Stove, we purchased a "home-style" above kitchen benchtop "Phillips brand" plugin induction stove. These are pretty inexpensive nowadays and are awesome little units if you get a good quality brand name.  Our one has power options of 1800w, 1200w, 800w, 400w and is amazingly fast! So, for example, knowing we have a 3000w inverter, and we tend not to load it more than 2500w at any one time (eg computer, 1200w stove fast boiling, 750w microwave & plenty reserve) if possible, and so we have learned to adjust both the microwave power watts, and the stovetop watts as needed, for example, the rice pot on the induction comes onto the boil,(then down to 400w) and the veggies in the microwave need 900w instead of 750w to cook faster.  

The Phillips induction stove is one hotplate only glass top unit, and it fits perfectly on top of the standard Amel gas stove, and clips in under the existing pot holder steel rails. The great thing about this is it is perfectly gimballed and we have often had, for example, a huge pot of curry cooking there in 3m+ waves and it stays perfectly on the stovetop, but we still need to think about designing a decent stainless set of pot clamps for the little induction unit, just in case! Of course, being a benchtop model, we then also have the option of moving it onto the side benchtop too, and then using both gas cookers and induction, but this has never yet been necessary for us. Our gas usage is so seldom that we last filled our propane gas up in Mauritius 1 year ago and it is still full!

The last point I should mention is your hot water system (as this is normally the only time when we sometimes need to run the genset now, unplanned .for 15 - 20mins at night. (for the Admiral's shower). We decided to replace our hot water boiler with a new 1200w model (previously 600 or 700w?) unit in 2017 just before cruising. This is amazingly fast and cuts down the heating time (and hence ad hoc unplanned genset use time too!) from 50mins to less than 20mins approx for 40L. We can, and sometimes do, simply heat it via the inverter from the batteries if the wind is blowing hard at night etc.., but when I sell the boat later this year, I would probably advise the new owner to think carefully about this in term of his/her needs and crew plans, and potentially remove this option (ie. to run it off batteries) as one could easily have a new crew member turn it on and forget, and then run down the house batteries far faster than one might like!

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II  , SM #332. (for sale in November in Australia when we complete our circumnavigation - contact me or the broker)
Niue (& Tonga next week)




On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 4:43 AM Scott SV Tengah < sv.tengah@...> wrote:
Colin,

Good to hear from you! It's amazing we're now so far apart given we were nearly next to each other just a few months ago.

That's great that you have so much generation capacity. So you can run the water maker (25amps) and induction (80+ amps) from your non-lithium batteries? I never tried that on my previous gel batteries because of lack of a capable inverter, but I didn't think it would have worked. One "weakness" of my current system is that I can't replenish, via renewable sources, all the power we use. With our current usage level, it doesn't make sense to have more than 450AH capacity because we don't generate enough renewable power daily so it's a question of how often we have to run the genset. Where do you have all that solar? Just on the arch or elsewhere too?

Do you have longer term data on the output of the Rutlands? I have heard so many conflicting stories on what people "think" their wind generators output on a daily basis. It would be interesting to see what they produce on average, over the course of months, in the normal trade wind circumnavigation route. Also, what about noise/hum/resonance?

Also where do you have them mounted? If I were to add them, I would put one on the mizzen mast and that's it. I have tested minor shading on the panels and even with my parallel wired 3 panel setup, solar output drops considerably with shading. I'm concerned that the solar reduction attributed to shading via a setup like Delos with the windgens located nearly directly above the panels would cancel out any output from the windgen. Lithium will not make windgens, if they produce considerable power, unnecessary. I would love to have more renewable generation capacity.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Maramu locker door mishap

Rainer Huthmacher <thelastoneever@...>
 

On my Sharki there is just a rubber house in the upper wooden runner, to keep the door from moving upwards, very easy to remove...
If I remember right, the SM doesn’t have any sliding cabinet doors...
Rainer Sharki#83 Rock‘n Roll
Currently in Fuerteventura

On 12. Aug 2019, at 16:08, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello

The boys managed to do some destructive testing on one of the wooden locker doors.

Has anyone managed to take these out before for varnishing or repairs?

Picture attached and slightly baffled about how to remove it for fixing the handle.

I looked to see if the wooden runners in which the slider door is mounted are detachable but that looks like a big job as I can’t see any screw heads so perhaps they are glasses over.

Any thoughts or experience much appreciated

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162



<image1.jpeg>


Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Matt Salatino
 

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X



Re: Maramu locker door mishap

 

Miles,

I have no idea how it was made by Amel, but I have years of experience with home furnishing manufacturing and was in charge of product development/engineering for one of the largest manufacturers.

If that was designed by my team, there would be one place on the track that the door would lift up high enough into the upper slot allowing you to pull the door out of the bottom slot. 

I doubt if this helps you, but I hope so.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 3:08 PM smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello

The boys managed to do some destructive testing on one of the wooden locker doors.

Has anyone managed to take these out before for varnishing or repairs?

Picture attached and slightly baffled about how to remove it for fixing the handle.

I looked to see if the wooden runners in which the slider door is mounted are detachable but that looks like a big job as I can’t see any screw heads so perhaps they are glasses over.

Any thoughts or experience much appreciated

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162




Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

 

Arno,

My opinion of the Beugel is very good. My experience with the Beugel was very good with only one anchor failure, which was not the fault of the anchor. My experience includes many areas of the world, 40,000 miles, 58 countries, and uncounted anchorages over 11 years. The remainder of my experience included all sorts of anchors and sizes of vessels. That said, it is only my experience and no 2 experiences are identical. 

"Dragon Tooth" is a term for an anchor design begun by Wasi. Wasi combined "Dragon Tooth" with the "Roll Bar." Following Wasi, several well known anchor manufacturers used this same general design. I have limited experience with the Wasi copies, but my opinion is that they are just as good...not better and not worse.

In my opinion, coupled with lots of prejudice from experiences, correct anchoring technique will properly set almost any anchor and secure the vessel. And, in my experience, a good anchor doesn't make up for incorrect technique. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 2:33 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

Not meant to annoy you but if you do not read forum postings with with your "opinion glasses" on there is hardly any forum you can read/participate. On the is specifi topic, getting facts about anchor behavior is close to impossible as there are so many variables at play. Even the "so called"objective anchor tests are quite synthetic and often show results that seem to be strange at least. Only if you see consistent problems with whatever anchor model across tests and peoples experiences you can assume there is some flaw in the design.

This being said I read it was actually John Bruce (Bruce anchor) that first came with the idea of a roll bar, although he never put it in practice. It is also a well known argument that Bruce anchors are among the best but they do not scale very well and although many drilling platforms rely on the design, it's performance is mediocre in the 15-50 kg range.

But my question was not about the holding capabilities of the Buegel. My problem with the anchor is that it sits poorly on the bow of a 54.
My own experience using the anchor is very limited and from what I read seems to concur with other experiences that the anchor does not like weed on the bottom but works fine in sand/mud.

Regards,

Arno
Cheers,

Arno


So Buegel may claim this rollbar fame, but it's a shared fame.


Maramu locker door mishap

smiles bernard
 

Hello

The boys managed to do some destructive testing on one of the wooden locker doors.

Has anyone managed to take these out before for varnishing or repairs?

Picture attached and slightly baffled about how to remove it for fixing the handle.

I looked to see if the wooden runners in which the slider door is mounted are detachable but that looks like a big job as I can’t see any screw heads so perhaps they are glasses over.

Any thoughts or experience much appreciated

All the best
Miles
Maramu 162


Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

Mark McGovern
 

Dean,

No problem.  You should be able to clean up your flowmeter glass as it all comes apart pretty easily.  On the SM Amel wired it with plenty of slack so I could drop it on the galley counter and work on it.  I do wonder how the glass got dirty, however, as it should only ever be exposed to "clean" product water that came directly from the watermaker.  So that is a bit odd. 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

Not meant to annoy you but if you do not read forum postings with with your "opinion glasses" on there is hardly any forum you can read/participate. On the is specifi topic, getting facts about anchor behavior is close to impossible as there are so many variables at play. Even the "so called"objective anchor tests are quite synthetic and often show results that seem to be strange at least. Only if you see consistent problems with whatever anchor model across tests and peoples experiences you can assume there is some flaw in the design.

This being said I read it was actually John Bruce (Bruce anchor) that first came with the idea of a roll bar, although he never put it in practice. It is also a well known argument that Bruce anchors are among the best but they do not scale very well and although many drilling platforms rely on the design, it's performance is mediocre in the 15-50 kg range.

But my question was not about the holding capabilities of the Buegel. My problem with the anchor is that it sits poorly on the bow of a 54.
My own experience using the anchor is very limited and from what I read seems to concur with other experiences that the anchor does not like weed on the bottom but works fine in sand/mud.

Regards,

Arno
Cheers,

Arno


So Buegel may claim this rollbar fame, but it's a shared fame.


Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Laurens Vos
 


Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

Dean Gillies
 

Just found the answer to the dehumidifier drainage question in another thread about wintering. Use the depth transducer hole. Perfect!
I love this forum.


Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Alin, we will be there today doing final prep for tomorrow.

Regards

Danny

On 12 August 2019 at 21:27 Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

Hello 
Danny,
I see Ocean Pearl on F pier Opua (we're on G), I wondered what you were up to.... haven't seen anyone on the boat...mind you I've had my head down tail up for the last week with generator problems and other issues...going home tomorrow in the am.

Colin, 
Been following your exploits with interest, you've done really well.

Pity I will miss both of you, Elyse isn't going anywhere until next year.

Fair winds

Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, watermaker?

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Mark,
Thanks for the pics and detailed info.  I’ve ordered 10 gallons of the pink antifreeze, and a couple of heaters too!   My flowmeter is a little ‘grubby’ looking as shown in the attachment. It doesn’t affect the water quality, but I might talk to CT Platon about getting a replacement if I can’t find a way to disassemble and clean it up.  

Your picture of the outlet pipework also gave me an idea to see if I can find a suitable access to drain a dehumidifier (by gravity) into the watermaker outlet pipework. I’m really just thinking about the dehumidifier as an additional wintering measure.

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154



Re: Boston

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Wolfgang,

There are a ton of marinas in Boston, and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them, so it really depends on what you're looking for and how much you're willing to pay.  Dockwa has very high (maybe even 100%) penetration here, so you can see a good overview of locations and prices on there.

If you want easy access to downtown, check out Fan Pier Marina, Boston Waterboat Marina, Boston Yacht Haven, etc.  If you want a mooring in this area, Boston Waterboat Marina has some, and sometimes Boston Sailing Center also has some.

If you want a great community, amenities, and access to public transit, check out Constitution Marina (that's where Kelly and I live, and there's also one other Super Maramu here).

If you're looking for something slightly less expensive, but still with easy access to the city, you can go to East Boston -- check out Boston Harbor Shipyard (there's a Super Maramu there, too) or Pier Park Sailing Center (moorings).  For still less expense, you can go outside the city to Sunset Bay in Hull or Hingham Shipyard in Hingham.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 1:44 PM Wolfgang Weber via Groups.Io <webercardio=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello to the group, 
Has anyone a recommendation for a Marina in or near Boston where I can leave the boat for 3 weeks ?
Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162


Boston

Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
 

Hello to the group, 
Has anyone a recommendation for a Marina in or near Boston where I can leave the boat for 3 weeks ?
Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162


Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

 

All,

Opinions:
We all have opinions, but few of us, if any, have compiled scientific data comparing anchors. This thread is full of opinions without the preface, "in my opinion."

Here is a bit of data
Wasi was the first with the "dragon tooth" "roll bar" design that other anchor manufacturers knocked off (copied). The "others" I refer to are well known manufacturers, who will publicly argue that they were not influenced by Wasi. My opinion: Ha!☺

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 11:01 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: “Default” anchor arrangement on an Amel 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno, 
I have only been using the Spade a couple of weeks. So far so good. Actually last night we anchored at Kalamos in a rather exposed place and it kicked up 25kn with several miles fetch. We were stern to the shore in 15m but I had 70m out. We left in the morning and that Spade was quite hard to break out.  The stern line never went slack.
In my opinion the Spade is a vast improvement on the Beugel, not just the design but 20% heavier.
As for the Beugel I have to agree with you. Firstly it has a poor surface area, secondly it will not keep burying, and thirdly 30kg is undersized for a 54 ft 20 ton boat.
On the plus side it generally always went in with that sharp point and it is still a good anchor.
I think Amel should either up the size or shift to a more modern anchor be or a Rocna, or Spade, or Mantus whatever....
Nick
Amelia 
Anchored stern to Kioni 
AML54-019
 


On 12 Aug 2019, at 15:49, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your reply. Great to see an Amel that actually uses the Spade. Your additional roller is very clever, it seems to really improve things.
I did notice the Buegel sitting not too great on the port side and is fouling the middle part where the snubber line goes when at anchor.

Yesterday I was reading some copies of anchor tests that Spade has on its website. No surprise the Spade came out best but what I found more interesting that the Delta also outperforms the Buegel in several of the tests. I really struggle with the reasoning that Amel selected the Buegel for all those years. To me it seems the surface of the anchor is quite small compared to other anchors in the same class. Although the surface area of the anchor alone does not make a good anchor it is quite important once the anchor has set.

So how do you like the Spade?

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Mast cosmetic

John Clark
 

I am not sure either.  I got the Renault 348 paint code from the forum.  I tried it and found it was a match.  
That said, Amel has been making boats for decades now...so it would not surprise me if they employed different paint suppliers with similar colors from time to time. 



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 9:43 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

 

Paul,

I believe it should be a similar rule as to "when to use a preventer when sailing downwind," so my answer is: "all of the time you use the staysail (Trinket)." Wind has a habit of almost never warning us when she is going to give us a burst.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 8:43 AM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, if possible on another note, can you please advise me on when to use the moving back stays associated to the stay sail?

Is it only in strong winds and regardless of if using the Genoa at the same time?

Kind regards Paul A55#17


On 12 Aug 2019, at 3:23 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Probably about $2k NZ for the board. I recently helped an owner source a OEM board for about $1300 US. 

Be careful because there are many variations of the board. It probably changed with each new Model and I think changed once within a Model. Use Model and Serial to match to ensure the right board and/or check with an Onan dealer for the correct board part number using serial number. I can imagine that the board could cause the hard start issue that you have.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:21 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
Hi JP,
Yes around $2k I believe....are you staying in Fiji all season?
I've been on Elyse for a week, going home tomorrow, returning mid November.
See you then.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Mast cosmetic

 

John,

I am not 100% sure of this, however, I think you are absolutely correct about the Renault paint for early SMs, but I believe that Amel later changed to AwlGrip. This is what I have:
The type is 00B006G (also known as White Amel No 3).
The hardener is 000G3010 known as AWLCAT2
The thinner is 000T0001
The RAL color code is 1013 

I believe that they are probably the same color, but not positive.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 12:26 AM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Bernd,
    I used the color "Renault Panda White 348"   for SM #37 (1990)   I had a local auto paint store make the color (their code was 53-1704591-A) and put it into spray cans.  Total cost was about $50 USD for four cans. Color match is perfect.

As to primer...   I had been using a green metal primer that states it is apropriate for aluminium.  I have had good experience with it on the mast and booms however, for the Bonfiglio furler gearboxes the primer bubbled and is flaking off after two years.  I don't know if it was poor surface prep on my part or some interaction with the metal.  I recently repainted them and used a gray metal primer.  So far it looks ok.

One place to check for corrosion on the masts is behind the winches.  I repainted there last year after I rebuilt the winches.  One older SM I visited had severe corrosion on the winch mounting plates.  Keeling them clean and coated will prevent that.  

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Sun, Aug 11, 2019 at 1:11 PM Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
Hi, I have some „bubbles“ in my mast around some old rivets and holes.
Two questions:
1. How can I close the holes (drilling the old rivets out or better close them with new rivets?)
2. I would like to repaint the mast. At least the lower half. Any recommendations about primer, 1or2 comp colors, RAL code etc on a SN 1995.
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

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