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Maramu weight for lift out
Hi there I'm trying to orgainse a haul out in the UK for our 1985 Maramu 46 I believe displacement is 12T but would like to know what total weight might be Has anyone lifted and weighed? I'll be dropping all water but keeping the diesel tank full to prevent condensation The yard I have approached close to home believe she might be too heavy so info very much appreciated Many thanks in advance Miles
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Re: Maramu locker door mishap
It does indeed look like there is a small rubber insert in the top rubber track. Many thanks Rainer and Wade for the tip - saved me likely damaging the door by brute force. Yet again - great forum Many thanks all Miles maramu 162
On Tuesday, August 20, 2019, 11:41:42 AM GMT+1, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
Thanks very much for this folks I’ll hunt the rubber insert when next on board but I’ve not seen it yet. I’ve also failed to spot any section that allows a lift to remove I’ll double check this weekend and let you know what I find Thanks again Miles On 13 Aug 2019, at 17:07, Wade Shikoski via Groups.Io < n2everythg@...> wrote: Rainer is correct.
on the 83 maramu the slider rails are both glued and finish nailed to the facing which is 8 mm veneered ply. Dont try to remove the rails or you will deface the laminate.....
on the 83 as rainer stated there are small rubber hose in the slot of the runner. You must remove the rubber hose then carefully lift the sliding door out. then there are 2 screws on the back of the sliding door to remove the handle.
best of luck.
Ask me how I know.. I learned the hard way..
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Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
Hi Amelowners,
we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Family Fießer
Mango #14
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Hello,
if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it should be
easy,
Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the outside of
the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a movement rotation
back and forth. Always sweet ...
JL Mertz
CottonBay
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Le 28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino
via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
wrote:
Bernd,
You
should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow
Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The
contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem
is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam
donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while
sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the
seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor
base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron
Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the
tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that
this has been more than a little saltwater over a long
time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very
difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You
will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of
penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to
cause separation. You can use some light tapping or
vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently
while constant pressure is applied with the special
tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard
because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower
bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is
also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2
years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil
when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of
waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube
and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service
every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly
believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832)
380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at
12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io>
wrote:
A little heat?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of
patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not
forcing, do not break the threads, the contact
is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le
28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster
today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could
not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly
rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it??
Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
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Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience
Dominique Guenot
Hello,
Thank you all for these answers and advices.
The electrician tested for resistance the cables from engine batteries to starter motor.
The cables were fine (couple of ohms as expected) but the positive switch tested at 1300 Ohm and the negative switch at 80 Ohm.
Completely out of whack and I am ordering them with Amel.
We also discovered that we have a loose contact at the stater motor, that we were able to resolve only after we unmounted the starter motor - access is difficult - on the Yanmar. We rethreaded the starter motor screw.
Finally we replaced the starter relay which was not working consistently and did some electrical housekeeping on the starter circuit.
Why the switch failed?
Possibly the loose contact
Possibly the fact that I never turn them on/off - as someone mentionned it in the thread - great insight.
Measuring the resistance was new to me and I can do it with my own meter. It is easy and I got a crash course :-)
Thanks again for your help
Dominique
sv Viva
SM #374
Papeete, French Polynesia
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Re: In Martinique looking at Amels
Hi Kelly and Darren,
I am currently looking at Amels with a view to purchase in the next two years. I have seen two SMs advertised in Martinique. Any information you think would be relevant concerning purchasing in this area would be most appreciated.
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Matt Salatino
Thx, Bill, I read them all! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 4:03 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.
Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt,
There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.
Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt Salatino
Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Ruedi,
This thread was started by an owner of a Santorin. The Santorin and Super Maramu Bow Thrusters are very similar and made by Amel. The Bow Thruster on the 54 and 55 are very different and made by SidePower. The 50 Bow Thruster is smaller than the 54 and probably from SidePower, but I do not know for sure.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:21 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Bill
only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet.
Best regards Ruedi WASABI A-54-#55
On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Rudolf Waldispuehl
Hi Bill
only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet.
Best regards Ruedi WASABI A-54-#55
On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Bill is right about being careful in heating grp. Grp can delaminate/crack and thereby destroying the strength of the material if too much heat is applied. I used to build GRP stack sampling equipment that could barely handle 350F..not much.
James SV Sueno Budva, Montenegro
Sent from Samsung tablet.
-------- Original message -------- From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> Date: 8/28/19 7:21 PM (GMT+01:00) To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service
Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Mike Ondra
Here’s another twist on bow thruster service. We services ours yesterday, on the hard, so no extra complications from doing it in the water. Last service less than a year ago was in the water, and we were not confident that the reinstall was completely waterproof. Indeed, it was not, and we had our share of oil and cream. Anyway after removing the 4 bolts that hold the GRP shaft, the motor housing spun freely on the GRP, but the thruster would not drop. We surmised that the splined connection between the motor shaft and thruster drive shaft had seized. No amount of tugging from below would move it. Ultimately we lowered the bow thruster and from below lifted it a few inches and “bumped” it with a short drop, well maybe a little bit more than a short drop to get results. Anyway, the lesson is to lubricate the splined connection when reassembling the bow thruster to prevent seizing. We used Molykote. Mike & Tom ALETES SM#240 Chesapeake Bay
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via Groups.Io Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 2:53 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service Good to know
On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP. Best, Galveston Island, TX 77550 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron. I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged. In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base. This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice. Galveston Island, TX 77550 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? Hi ! I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless ... I needed 2 days ... good luck JLM CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit : Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt Salatino
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt Salatino
Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
In Martinique looking at Amels
We are in Martinique with a possible deal pending and looking at Amels. If anyone is considering any boats here, and would like some info, we would be happy to pass it along.
Kelly and Darren
ISPA YachtMaster Instructor Evaluator
ISPA YachtMaster Instructor.
|
|
|
Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt Salatino
A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, " jlm@..." < jlm@...> wrote:
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
