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Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
I recently swapped out my Perkins Prima M80T for a Beta Marine 85. I used the following engine support bar.
It spans perfectly across the seats of a Super Maramu.
As far as the Beta goes, Isolated ground, no computer, super quiet, no vibration, very fuel efficient (1,800rpm = 7.2 knts), and plenty of torque. We are extremely happy with it after running for 150 hours this summer so far.
Thanks, Dan SV Feierabend SM#86
On Thursday, August 29, 2019, 07:37:05 AM PDT, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
Frederic,
I changed the original Amel mounts on my 1987 Maramu with a 4-154 Perkins this past June. I attached the main haylard, the mizzen staysail halyard and a backup line looped over the mizzen spreaders to the end of the main boom and then used my HD Harken main sheet to do the actual lifting between the boom and the engine, running the tail to a winch on the mizzen mast. A single haylard in theory could easily support the engine but it only takes a small amount of time to add more support and you do not want to drop an engine. I also added a safety line for the lift between the boom and the engine which I adjusted at regular intervals going up and down. A chain hoist if you have one is a great tool to use as was suggested. The engine lifted easily and was no problem to reposition on my boat. I did not need to remove the engine hatch or anything else major, great design work by Amel for this eventuality. I also replaced all of the isolation dampers in the Vetus coupling. The driveline is super smooth now, no vibration at all. Despite this I checked the alignment again at 50 hours and as suspected the engine had settled a bit on the new mounts which is normal based on the many other mounts I have changed. Best of luck with your project. James SV Sueno, 1987 Maramu #220 Budva, Montenegro
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Bill,
Bernd, removed the 4 screws I so it is easy !
Best regards,
CottonBay
JLM
Le 29/08/2019 à 14:46, CW Bill Rouse a
écrit :
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
JL Mertz, CottonBay:
Yes, it should be "easy."
There are 4 Allen head bolts on most SN & SMs,
but in later model SMs, 2 bolts. It is always easy if the bow
thruster is serviced correctly, with seal replacement when
needed, and never left DOWN while sailing.
But, if you don't follow the above, you'll be lucky
if it's easy.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970
Hello,
if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it
should be easy,
Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the
outside of the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a
movement rotation back and forth. Always sweet ...
JL Mertz
CottonBay
Le
28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting
the FRP?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
wrote:
Bernd,
You
should be very, very careful with heat because
the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP,
not metal.
The
contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The
problem is a result of NOT replacing the
lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving
the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring.
Saltwater has passed through the seals and has
caused corrosion on the electric motor base
which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron
Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening
for the tube at the base of the motor. Your
photos show that this has been more than a
little saltwater over a long time, possibly
months/years. It is going to be very difficult
to separate the tube from the motor base. You
will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of
penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant
pressure to cause separation. You can use some
light tapping or vibration on the cast iron
motor base intermittently while constant
pressure is applied with the special tool. But
take care not to strile the base too hard
because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the
lower bearing on the electric motor because I
suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2
years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90
Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always
use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact
points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for
service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I
firmly believe that you will not get better
advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832)
380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28,
2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io
<helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io>
wrote:
A little heat?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a
lot of patience, mutch WD40 and
patience, do not forcing, do not break
the threads, the contact is bronze on
stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40
and much
Le
28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow
thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws
I could not get the shaft disconnected.
It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas
how I can loosen it?? Already used some
wd40 & caramba to get it loose....
no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
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Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
Frederic,
I changed the original Amel mounts on my 1987 Maramu with a 4-154 Perkins this past June. I attached the main haylard, the mizzen staysail halyard and a backup line looped over the mizzen spreaders to the end of the main boom and then used my HD Harken main sheet to do the actual lifting between the boom and the engine, running the tail to a winch on the mizzen mast. A single haylard in theory could easily support the engine but it only takes a small amount of time to add more support and you do not want to drop an engine. I also added a safety line for the lift between the boom and the engine which I adjusted at regular intervals going up and down. A chain hoist if you have one is a great tool to use as was suggested. The engine lifted easily and was no problem to reposition on my boat. I did not need to remove the engine hatch or anything else major, great design work by Amel for this eventuality. I also replaced all of the isolation dampers in the Vetus coupling. The driveline is super smooth now, no vibration at all. Despite this I checked the alignment again at 50 hours and as suspected the engine had settled a bit on the new mounts which is normal based on the many other mounts I have changed. Best of luck with your project. James SV Sueno, 1987 Maramu #220 Budva, Montenegro
On Aug 29, 2019 11:59 AM, Frederic F <fgf@...> wrote: Hi Amelowners,
we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Family Fießer
Mango #14
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Re: Lifting an engine using a beam on cockpit seats
Bill, I agree and would not put that kind of weigh on the seats. I placed a 4x4 across the cockpit resting on the coaming next to the winches,I further spread the load with a 2x6 under it along with padding . I used a come along to provide lift and positioned it slightly aft of the lifting point on the engine ,so it was inclined to move aft away from the trans, moved the lifting point slightly forward to move the engine forward to reinstall.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Aug 29, 2019 9:04 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lifting an engine using a beam on cockpit seats #IMPORTANT
Very Interesting thread on engine lift using a beam on cockpit seats.
I saw a SM with delaminated fiberglass on the cockpit seat exactly where a beam you describe would rest on the seat. I never connected the seat delamination to an engine lift, which I believe occurred on that SM. NOW, I DO.
I doubt the seat is designed to take significant weight. I would CAUTION this practice.
Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 4:57 AM christian alby via Groups.Io <calbyy= yahoo.fr@groups.io> wrote:
We did it already on our Maramu, lifting off & replacing engine afloat.
A stout piece of timber on top of engine, resting on cockpit side benches & main sheet did the trick once the engine was disconnected from its holding bolts fastenings to the support frame ...
This was the hard part
- one nut on rear aft stb side gave poor access with the famous 1/8th of a turn with open wrench already grinded to enter space betwen batteries compartment & engine base; guess you can expect one of those
- engine base & mountings stuck by grease, & salt & whatever when trying to lift first, high resistance countered using crowbar & wooden block & wedges & sledgehammer (cautious when beating).
- removal of shaft was easy enough (4 bolts & nuts 10mm) then moved by hand; reverse to connect checking alignement respected when reinstating (clock markings on flange helped)
all makes an interesting day of work, & good Opportunity to clean Bottom & repair paint work. Satisfaction when completed - do not forget to check tightening of bolts on support frame after a while running - they come loose unless you Added loctite on threads.
Meanwhile fair winds & Following seas
chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon
Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:28:30 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard= yahoo.com@groups.io> a écrit :
HI there
When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that
It worked well and was very simple
I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access?
All the best
M
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Lifting an engine using a beam on cockpit seats
Very Interesting thread on engine lift using a beam on cockpit seats.
I saw a SM with delaminated fiberglass on the cockpit seat exactly where a beam you describe would rest on the seat. I never connected the seat delamination to an engine lift, which I believe occurred on that SM. NOW, I DO.
I doubt the seat is designed to take significant weight. I would CAUTION this practice. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 4:57 AM christian alby via Groups.Io <calbyy= yahoo.fr@groups.io> wrote: We did it already on our Maramu, lifting off & replacing engine afloat. A stout piece of timber on top of engine, resting on cockpit side benches & main sheet did the trick once the engine was disconnected from its holding bolts fastenings to the support frame ... This was the hard part - one nut on rear aft stb side gave poor access with the famous 1/8th of a turn with open wrench already grinded to enter space betwen batteries compartment & engine base; guess you can expect one of those - engine base & mountings stuck by grease, & salt & whatever when trying to lift first, high resistance countered using crowbar & wooden block & wedges & sledgehammer (cautious when beating). - removal of shaft was easy enough (4 bolts & nuts 10mm) then moved by hand; reverse to connect checking alignement respected when reinstating (clock markings on flange helped) all makes an interesting day of work, & good Opportunity to clean Bottom & repair paint work. Satisfaction when completed - do not forget to check tightening of bolts on support frame after a while running - they come loose unless you Added loctite on threads.
Meanwhile fair winds & Following seas
chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon
Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:28:30 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard= yahoo.com@groups.io> a écrit :
HI there When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that It worked well and was very simple I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access? All the best M
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JL Mertz, CottonBay: Yes, it should be "easy." There are 4 Allen head bolts on most SN & SMs, but in later model SMs, 2 bolts. It is always easy if the bow thruster is serviced correctly, with seal replacement when needed, and never left DOWN while sailing. But, if you don't follow the above, you'll be lucky if it's easy. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
Hello,
if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it should be
easy,
Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the outside of
the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a movement rotation
back and forth. Always sweet ...
JL Mertz
CottonBay
Le 28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino
via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
wrote:
Bernd,
You
should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow
Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The
contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem
is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam
donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while
sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the
seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor
base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron
Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the
tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that
this has been more than a little saltwater over a long
time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very
difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You
will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of
penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to
cause separation. You can use some light tapping or
vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently
while constant pressure is applied with the special
tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard
because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower
bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is
also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2
years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil
when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of
waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube
and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service
every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly
believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832)
380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at
12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io>
wrote:
A little heat?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of
patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not
forcing, do not break the threads, the contact
is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le
28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster
today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could
not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly
rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it??
Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
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|
|
Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
When we removed my old Perkins they placed a beam across the boat and used a a manual chain hoist. It worked very well.
On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 8:59 PM Frederic F < fgf@...> wrote: Hi Amelowners,
we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Family Fießer
Mango #14
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Re: Maramu weight for lift out
christian alby <calbyy@...>
ours weighed 14 tons last time (May 2019) lifted by Rolling gear with weight cells on 4 points; note weight cells were not certified therefore error rate + or - 10% applies to be on sage side. had about 350 L diesel, 100 L water & full supplies, Tools & cruising paraphrenalia on board hope this helps
christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon
Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80
Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:25:58 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> a écrit :
Hi there I'm trying to orgainse a haul out in the UK for our 1985 Maramu 46 I believe displacement is 12T but would like to know what total weight might be Has anyone lifted and weighed? I'll be dropping all water but keeping the diesel tank full to prevent condensation The yard I have approached close to home believe she might be too heavy so info very much appreciated Many thanks in advance Miles
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Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
christian alby <calbyy@...>
We did it already on our Maramu, lifting off & replacing engine afloat. A stout piece of timber on top of engine, resting on cockpit side benches & main sheet did the trick once the engine was disconnected from its holding bolts fastenings to the support frame ... This was the hard part - one nut on rear aft stb side gave poor access with the famous 1/8th of a turn with open wrench already grinded to enter space betwen batteries compartment & engine base; guess you can expect one of those - engine base & mountings stuck by grease, & salt & whatever when trying to lift first, high resistance countered using crowbar & wooden block & wedges & sledgehammer (cautious when beating). - removal of shaft was easy enough (4 bolts & nuts 10mm) then moved by hand; reverse to connect checking alignement respected when reinstating (clock markings on flange helped) all makes an interesting day of work, & good Opportunity to clean Bottom & repair paint work. Satisfaction when completed - do not forget to check tightening of bolts on support frame after a while running - they come loose unless you Added loctite on threads.
Meanwhile fair winds & Following seas
chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon
Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:28:30 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> a écrit :
HI there When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that It worked well and was very simple I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access? All the best M
|
|
|
Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
HI there When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that It worked well and was very simple I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access? All the best M
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Maramu weight for lift out
Hi there I'm trying to orgainse a haul out in the UK for our 1985 Maramu 46 I believe displacement is 12T but would like to know what total weight might be Has anyone lifted and weighed? I'll be dropping all water but keeping the diesel tank full to prevent condensation The yard I have approached close to home believe she might be too heavy so info very much appreciated Many thanks in advance Miles
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Re: Maramu locker door mishap
It does indeed look like there is a small rubber insert in the top rubber track. Many thanks Rainer and Wade for the tip - saved me likely damaging the door by brute force. Yet again - great forum Many thanks all Miles maramu 162
On Tuesday, August 20, 2019, 11:41:42 AM GMT+1, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
Thanks very much for this folks I’ll hunt the rubber insert when next on board but I’ve not seen it yet. I’ve also failed to spot any section that allows a lift to remove I’ll double check this weekend and let you know what I find Thanks again Miles On 13 Aug 2019, at 17:07, Wade Shikoski via Groups.Io < n2everythg@...> wrote: Rainer is correct.
on the 83 maramu the slider rails are both glued and finish nailed to the facing which is 8 mm veneered ply. Dont try to remove the rails or you will deface the laminate.....
on the 83 as rainer stated there are small rubber hose in the slot of the runner. You must remove the rubber hose then carefully lift the sliding door out. then there are 2 screws on the back of the sliding door to remove the handle.
best of luck.
Ask me how I know.. I learned the hard way..
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Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango
Hi Amelowners,
we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Family Fießer
Mango #14
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|
|
Hello,
if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it should be
easy,
Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the outside of
the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a movement rotation
back and forth. Always sweet ...
JL Mertz
CottonBay
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Le 28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino
via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...>
wrote:
Bernd,
You
should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow
Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The
contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem
is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam
donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while
sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the
seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor
base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron
Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the
tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that
this has been more than a little saltwater over a long
time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very
difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You
will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of
penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to
cause separation. You can use some light tapping or
vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently
while constant pressure is applied with the special
tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard
because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower
bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is
also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2
years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil
when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of
waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube
and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service
every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly
believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832)
380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at
12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io>
wrote:
A little heat?
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of
patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not
forcing, do not break the threads, the contact
is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le
28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster
today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could
not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly
rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it??
Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
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|
|
Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience
Dominique Guenot
Hello,
Thank you all for these answers and advices.
The electrician tested for resistance the cables from engine batteries to starter motor.
The cables were fine (couple of ohms as expected) but the positive switch tested at 1300 Ohm and the negative switch at 80 Ohm.
Completely out of whack and I am ordering them with Amel.
We also discovered that we have a loose contact at the stater motor, that we were able to resolve only after we unmounted the starter motor - access is difficult - on the Yanmar. We rethreaded the starter motor screw.
Finally we replaced the starter relay which was not working consistently and did some electrical housekeeping on the starter circuit.
Why the switch failed?
Possibly the loose contact
Possibly the fact that I never turn them on/off - as someone mentionned it in the thread - great insight.
Measuring the resistance was new to me and I can do it with my own meter. It is easy and I got a crash course :-)
Thanks again for your help
Dominique
sv Viva
SM #374
Papeete, French Polynesia
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Re: In Martinique looking at Amels
Hi Kelly and Darren,
I am currently looking at Amels with a view to purchase in the next two years. I have seen two SMs advertised in Martinique. Any information you think would be relevant concerning purchasing in this area would be most appreciated.
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Matt Salatino
Thx, Bill, I read them all! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 4:03 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.
Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt,
There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.
Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Matt Salatino
Thanks, What a relief! ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
Ruedi,
This thread was started by an owner of a Santorin. The Santorin and Super Maramu Bow Thrusters are very similar and made by Amel. The Bow Thruster on the 54 and 55 are very different and made by SidePower. The 50 Bow Thruster is smaller than the 54 and probably from SidePower, but I do not know for sure.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:21 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Bill
only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet.
Best regards Ruedi WASABI A-54-#55
On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Matt,
This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Good to know ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Mat,
It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill, Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Bernd,
You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal.
The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.
<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.
In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.
This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at" Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.
Best,
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970 On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: A little heat? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
Hi !
I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch
WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the
contact is bronze on stainless ...
I needed 2 days ...
good luck
JLM
CottonBay
Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much
Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft
disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can
loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it
loose.... no success
Pics attached
Best regards,
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
|
|
|
