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Re: Chain and Anchor
ngtnewington Newington
Hi Herbert,
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Anchor discussions are always tricky but interesting and indeed important. The Wasi Buegel was invented in the 1980’s and really was one of the first of the new generation. My problem with it is that it only digs in so far and will not continue to penetrate. This is fine in sand and firm mud but when it come to very soupy silty mud it simply drags whereas I believe the ROCNA and the SPADE and many other modern anchors dig deep. It also has quite a small surface area. Kind regards Nick
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Re: Santorin Balooner
Herbert Lackner
Eamonn, partly furling worked fine for us when the wind got stronger, to be on the safe side we reduce size in the night, never had any problems. did not change the setup during our atlantic crossing, only furling in and out. needs above 12 knots of true wind when there are waves. no problem in more then 30knots when partly furled
btw: our balooner has been made by Dave Benjamin, works very fine.
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Re: Chain and Anchor
Herbert Lackner
Nick, yes, it is a WASI Buegel anchor.
Any experiences with the WASI compared to the Rocna? Why have so many upgraded to Rocna? herbert
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Re: Chain and Anchor
Heinz Stutenbaeumer
Hallo
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I have a 100m 10 mm stainless steel chain and a Mantus stainless steel 85 lbs steel ANKER. The Price for the Mantus is about half as the Rocna. I have it 9 month now with no problem at all. I get it from Marine Warehouse when I was in Panama. Fare winds Heinz Quetzal, sm 2000, 292 Mit freundlichen Grüßen Heinz Stutenbāumer Dachdeckermeister
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Re: Santorin Balooner
Hello When crossing the Atlantic and the Pacific, We only rolled up the balooner as far as necessary. When the thunderstorm was over it was easy to roll it out again. We never had any damage to the sail. Even if one is alone at the helm. But at night it is necessary to use the radar, so the thunderstorms can be seen very well and you can reef in time. Fare winds Heinz, Sailing yacht Quetzal, SM 2000, 292
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Re: Santorin Balooner
Eamonn Washington
Hi, I have been wondering about what to do when the true wind gets to 20 knots. Amel says if the true wind exceeds 20 knots then the balooner and foresail may be rolled together. I wondered if the documentation meant fully rolled together (to protect the nylon balooner from ripping) or just reefed, so partly furling the 2 sails together and continue with no risk of damage to the balooner.
Based on Ian’s experience, partly furling seems to work fine. Dave suggested it would distort the balooner to have it reefed in over 20 knots. What is the experience and recommendations of this group? I have only used the main balooner a dozen times for practice day trips and one overnight so far, and always removed it when the wind got to 15 knots true, up to now. I hope to have the twin headsails up all the time for an upcoming Atlantic crossing, but this 20 knots Amel recommendation was always ambiguous to me. Thanks Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 Currently in Alghero, Sardinia, Italy.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal
Mark McGovern
Mike,
I did my first bowthruster service this past winter and used a 29x42x8 seal. It was a tight fit but it works. The seal I replaced was also a 29mm ID seal. There was no oil leaking from the seal while the boat was sitting on the hard after the service and the oil is still clear - not the "cafe creme" looking mixture of oil and water. However, when I disassembled the unit to replace the bearings (preventatively) I could feel a small groove in the shaft where the previous seal sat. The shaft was also discolored with a brown-ish stain at that point: I consulted with Olivier Beaute and he told me that if I felt any kind of groove that I should try to gently sand it out with 600 grit sandpaper and water. He also said that if I could NOT feel anything that I should NOT sand it but just clean it as sanding the shaft comes with it's own risks. I measured the shaft OD at the point in the shaft where the oil seal sits with calipers and found that it was about 29.5mm so there was plenty of "meat" on the shaft for a 29mm ID oil seal so I wet-sanded the shaft smooth, re-assembled everything and so far, so good. However, a 30mm ID seal would have likely resulting in a static oil leak like you have and certainly would have allowed water to enter the bowthruster during use. Consider taking the entire bowthruster shaft apart, measure the shaft OD and inspect it for any damage where the oil seal sits. Also check the OD for any damage as well. -- Mark McGoverntly SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: Chain and Anchor
ngtnewington Newington
The original stainless anchor is probably a WASI Beugel anchor. It is a good anchor for sure but in my opinion your 33kg Rocna is much better and nearly 30% bigger.
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I recently demoted my 30kg WASI to the second anchor and bought a 37Kg Spade, as the primary anchor. I can confirm that the Spade appears to be superior by a large margin. My evidence is of course anecdotal but: I recently left Amelia in a harbour in Kefalonia for a few weeks. She is fixed to a mooring block plus my anchor. We are in 3m depth. The Spade is set with 50m of chain. The bottom is not great holding. There is about 30cm of dead organic matter then soft silty mud. I dived it. I set the Spade with full RPM and she went down and set solid. I then thought it would be interesting to set the WASI too.After all I was going to leave Amelia whilst I returned to the UK. I laid it with the dinghy; 10m chain and 50m of rope. Remember the boat is stern to a dock and fixed with a mooring and the Spade. I started to winch in the WASI until it was just taught. I then had a coffee and left it to settle. I then began to winch in on the WASI. It kept coming all the way home ploughing a nice furrow in the sea bed!!!! So it ended up back on the bow roller. So there you have it... By the way whilst enjoying my evening drink several yachts came in to anchor, mostly using Delta’s and most of them either dragged or could not get a set....so the holding is indeed poor. Nick S/Y Amelia AML 54-019
On 1 Sep 2019, at 15:20, Herbert Lackner <herbert@...> wrote:
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Re: Chain and Anchor
Ian Park
Hi Herbert,
Can’t comment on the chain as I’ve never had stainless. Guess it might settle better in the anchor locker. We have the 25kg Rocna on our Santorin and not had any problem with it. With 100m of 10mm galvanised chain I was concerned about the total weight on the bow. Mind you I haven’t yet put out more than 50 metres. I’ve also got a Spade stowed away and 37 and 16 Fortress. I had a 45lb CQR but gave it away to the OCC Port Officer in Dominica. Would work well on one of the local fishing boats! Would be interesting to hear from other Santorin owners. Best wishes Ian and Linda Ocean Hobo SN 96 Currently in the Limfjord, Denmark waiting for a good wind for Scotland!
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Re: Chain and Anchor
I ordert now
One spade ancor Seewater Aluminium 18,5 Kg for second and stern ancor and 28 kg seewater Aluminium for main ancor I hope it is a god concept Best SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Chain and Anchor
Keep in mind, galvanized, steel chain is more ductile than stainless (a good thing) and has higher tensile strength. Those are positives. Oh, also costs less.
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Negative is, when the galvanizing wears, it begins to rust. Typically, a 33 kg Rocna will perform better than most 25 kg anchors...... ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 1, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Herbert Lackner <herbert@...> wrote:
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Chain and Anchor
Herbert Lackner
Hi Amelians,
an excellent topic to discuss - anchor and chain :-) just booked the flights back to Mexico and "in preparation" for the next season... and therefore questions... KALI MERA has 90 Meters of 10mm stainless steel chain (316), unfortunately the chain is ~ 13 years old and "end of life" and we have to replace it (galvanic corrosion). We carry two anchors: 1. Rocna 33 (kg) galvanized main anchor, very satisfied with it. worked perfect in all conditions the last 15.000 miles, maybe a little bit oversized for the Santorin 2. the original Amel stainless steel anchor (25kg) as spare anchor, never used it up to now (I do not know what the manufacturer is, it looks very similar to a Spade, have seen it on many other Amels already, I believe it has been the Amel standard Anchor) This has been the setup of the boat when we purchased her, and now, as we have to replace the chain, I am thinking what the best option would be a) I could buy a Wälder stainless steel chain, certified for tropic climate, made of 1.4462 steel, expensive but very reliable and no problems with galvanic corrosion in warm water b) could buy standard galvanized steel chain We prefer to have the stainless steel chain again because it stays so clean and no problems "in operation"... argument against stainless steel chain is (beside the price): the Rocna 33 is not stainless, so there might be some "galvanic problems" when connecting the chain to the anchor. To avoid that we could use the Amel factory supplied stainless anchor as a main anchor and use the Rocna as spare, but we do not know if it works as good as the Rocna and it is only 25kg and not 33kg. So, questions: * How is the Original stainless Anchor 25 compared to the Rocna 33 ? Any experiences? (we are currently in Mexico and will head to the south pacific in one or two years) * Is there a problem when connecting the new 1.446 Cromox chain to the galvanized Rocna? Wälder told me that these might cause rust on the chain. thank you very much for your advise and experiences fair winds, herbert SN120 KALI MERA, Mazatlan
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Re: Help! SM deck stripes
The paint we bought locally in Trinidad, from a shop by Coral Cove, was much better than Brightsides. Didn’t flake off like brightsides, one part, and easy to apply. Of course I used it as a boot stripe, not on my deck. He could match anything.
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~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 31, 2019, at 11:48 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:
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Re: Help! SM deck stripes
We used Brightside Hatteras Off White and a flattening agent. Very close match. Ian & Margaret S/V Loca Lola II SM153 US East Coast
On Sep 1, 2019, at 6:27 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Help! SM deck stripes
Chuck, He's right. I had an issue with mixing Brightside to brown. If he is talking about the paint supply shop in Coral Cove Marina, I trust the opinion of the owner of that shop. We had him mix 1 part cream color for the faux caulking. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sat, Aug 31, 2019, 10:48 PM Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote: Hi All,
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Help! SM deck stripes
Hi All,
This is a cut and paste from a friend who was going to paint my stripes on my SM in Trinidad. "went to budget marine but don't have brown in paint in Interlux Brightside went to the paint matcher but he said that brand of paint can't be match,he suggested another one that uses a primer,so unless you can get a one part paint from overseas and send it to me,the only option down here is a two part paint which is double the labor, budget say they only have, blue,black, white and gray in that brand of paint, wait to hear from you" I thought I read that someone used Brightside on their decks which lasted a while. Anywho I'm in the US now till Oct. Any idea on how to get brown paint to Trinidad. Or other options. Thx for your time. Chuck Joy 388
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal
Mike Ondra
We just replaced the prop shaft seal with the 29mm lip seal. Aletes was on the hard and the bow thruster was dipping oil the next day. Thinking we may have damaged the lip seal during installation, we replaced it with our spare 29 mm seal. Oil was leaking at the lip seal within minutes of being added. Could it be that the slightly smaller opening diameter of the lip seal is causing a distortion that defeats its effectiveness? Will try a 30 mm as see if that works. Have others had success with 29mm seals?
Mike Aletes SM#240
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Re: Emptying the ( waste tank) on a 1977 meltem53
Three miles off shore. 😎
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Re: Air conditioner seawater pump won’t start
Sorry guys, just read that last post and the 2nd para should read...
The problem was simply that the seawater pump is not commanded to turn on IF the ambient temp is below the set point. I couldn’t find a way to edit my post? cheers Dean
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Re: Air conditioner seawater pump won’t start
Hi Mark, Bill, Matt & Danny,
Thanks for posting. It turned out that the problem I was having was nothing to do with the capacitor, corrosion or the rotor sticking. The clue was in the lack of drive voltage to the pump. My capacitor is good, there is no corrosion and the rotor turns freely. The problem was simply that the seawater pump is not commanded to turn on until the ambient temp is below the set point. In warm climates this usually happens immediately, but if the air temp is 15degrees as it is here, the pump is not commanded to turn on because it’s simply not required by the system. Bill, that’s probably good info for your book as I’m sure this happens to others, but not many. I only needed the pump to run for pushing antifreeze around the lines. I now know how to do that, by using a heat gun on the thermostat! Interestingly I do have the plastic capacitor, but have had no issues with it, even although the AC has been used a lot since the boat was new. The previous owner didn’t take the boat out very often, but he did like to hang out in the marina in the Italian summer with the AC running! Cheers Dean SY Stella A54-154 ps Danny, I don’t know that crc 66 product, but I’ll keep an eye open. I do use CorrosionX and of course WD40 is as ubiquitous as duct tape :-) As the old saying goes ... If it moves when it shouldn’t -> Duct Tape if it should move but doesn’t -> WD40
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