Date   

Re: Victron Quattro 5000 Location

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

We installed a quattro and Victron isolation transformer in 2013 in the engine room vertically where the Mastervolt 100Amp charger and the Mastervolt 30 Amp charger were. We then doubled up the two sets of cables for these devices to connect to the Victron. We had a small inverter under the chart table which had thick cabling to the batteries in place, this we replaced with the 30Amp Mastervolt charger as a backup charger. It has worked very well but we have found that it gets quite hot when charging and inverting but particularly when inverting. On occasion to the extent we received high temperature alarms in the Victron  Color Control.

There are fans come on in the engine room for the motor and for the genset and we have investigated but not implemented yet the option of automatically switching on one or other of these using one of the inbuilt Quattro relays when the heat is above a certain level – I believe that this is possible and I think  this would be essential for extended inverting under significant loads. I think from a noise point of view that there is a significant hum from the device that may become annoying in the cabin besides the additional heat.

 

Andrew

Ronpische

SM472

 

Canet-en-Roussillon

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Elaine Leishman
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 8:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Victron Quattro 5000 Location

 

We are going to install a victron quattro 5000 inverter/charger and looking for advice as to the location on a super Maramu 2000.
We are looking at 2 options,  .

- locating it next to the nav station in the storage area on the wall that divides the companion way.  This would keep the 24v cabling shorter and hopefully provide a cooler, cleaner environment.  Weight on the starboard side wouldn't hurt.  Question, how much noise do they make when running, compared to the fridge?

- locating it in the engine room, shorter to 40v power cabling, wouldn't hear it running over the gender.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, 
Elaine and Michael 
SM251 Nebo
Hobart


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dave Ritten
 

Hi Dean 
The washer with rubber inner seal is called a Dowty washer. A good hydraulic engineering or bearing shop will carry these and be able to match up the correct size.
--
Dave Ritten
Auckland
Prospective SM Owner


Victron Quattro 5000 Location

Elaine Leishman
 

We are going to install a victron quattro 5000 inverter/charger and looking for advice as to the location on a super Maramu 2000.
We are looking at 2 options,  .

- locating it next to the nav station in the storage area on the wall that divides the companion way.  This would keep the 24v cabling shorter and hopefully provide a cooler, cleaner environment.  Weight on the starboard side wouldn't hurt.  Question, how much noise do they make when running, compared to the fridge?

- locating it in the engine room, shorter to 40v power cabling, wouldn't hear it running over the gender.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, 
Elaine and Michael 
SM251 Nebo
Hobart


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Here is a photo with the V bolt:
http://nikimat.com/spare_parts_c_drive.html

On Wednesday, September 4, 2019, 12:57:10 PM CDT, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Dean,

What you have doesn't agree with the way I remember the V Bolt. I don't have a photo of the V Bolt, but do have a photo of a new drain bolt to be used if you do not have a line cutter. You can see the metal washer and the absence of that smaller O ring that you have. I am fairly sure that this is what you need, rather than what you have.
image.png
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:47 PM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi,
I’ve removed the V bolt completely and have drained down the oil.  The attached pic shows the whole assembly. Two O-rings and two washers on the shaft. The O-ring at the top of the threaded shaft has perished.  The O-ring nearest the V is slightly damaged . 

I’m still not exactly sure how this assembly works to ensure both a tight seal and a correct vertical alignment of the V.

Maybe the real seal ends up being the mastic that Ian mentioned!

Kent, I’m not so keen to change the lip seals without any clear evidence that I need to do that.
I have not changed them before, and there was no problem until the ropecutter was installed in April this year. The evidence is very clear that the current problem is the Vbolt.  That doesn’t mean the lip seals are not about to start leaking of course !!

We launch every April and haul every Sep anyway so I’m not so concerned about that aspect.

Best regards
Dean
A54-154


Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)

NICOLAS KLENE <n.klene@...>
 

Hi Ameliens 
I have been following with great interest your discussions, on converting to lithium .
I am actively looking for a SM 2K , and it would be one of the first upgrade I would go through .
There is a young guy very knowledgable who could perhaps answer some of your question, check his posts on youtube , his name is William Prowse.
All the best 
Nick
Soon to be an Amel owner 
🚣‍♂️


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Olivier,
Thank you, I understand more now. The first washer does have remnants of a rubber-ring, I thought that the rubber remnants had just stuck to the first washer due to being pressured against an O-ring for six months.

So it seems I need to:

1. Find a new washer with rubber-ring. Amel only?

2. Find some more thin washers to try and adjust the V groove to be vertical while the bolt is also tight. I don’t like the mastic idea much, I’d rather it sealed properly with the O - rings.  I have a suspicion that the material I thought was a perished O-ring was in fact some mastic which had been put on when the V bolt was fitted. (I had too many other tasks this year and asked the technician at the marina to fit my ropecutter. I thought it was a straightforward job that didn’t have much chance of going wrong!)

3. Replace the shaft seals regardless of them showing any problem. We have 1065 hours.

many thanks
Dean



Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Dean,

Bill's picture shows the original bolt and washer when no rope-cutter is installed. The washer has a built-in rubber "ring" that is necessary to get a good sealing.
The problem with the V-bolt is that it must match the fixed blade of the rope-cutter, and therefore, with the original washer, the matching position of the bolt may not be the tight position of the bolt. The "trick" is to add one more washer (for instance a soft copper one, like on cars oil case), not necessarily with a rubber ring, so that the bolt can be set with the V matching the blade, and tight.

If this is really too difficult to have the V-bolt matching the blade AND being tight, then, the mastic sealant will do the job. 

One more point about the three shaft seals: they may not leak (oil) when the boat is out of the water, but let water in when the boat is afloat, moreover if the shaft is rotating. 
And if there are more than 1000 hours since last service, you should think of replacing the bushing and seals now.

Bon courage.

Olivier

On Wednesday, September 4, 2019, 07:57:11 PM GMT+2, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Dean,

What you have doesn't agree with the way I remember the V Bolt. I don't have a photo of the V Bolt, but do have a photo of a new drain bolt to be used if you do not have a line cutter. You can see the metal washer and the absence of that smaller O ring that you have. I am fairly sure that this is what you need, rather than what you have.
image.png
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:47 PM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi,
I’ve removed the V bolt completely and have drained down the oil.  The attached pic shows the whole assembly. Two O-rings and two washers on the shaft. The O-ring at the top of the threaded shaft has perished.  The O-ring nearest the V is slightly damaged . 

I’m still not exactly sure how this assembly works to ensure both a tight seal and a correct vertical alignment of the V.

Maybe the real seal ends up being the mastic that Ian mentioned!

Kent, I’m not so keen to change the lip seals without any clear evidence that I need to do that.
I have not changed them before, and there was no problem until the ropecutter was installed in April this year. The evidence is very clear that the current problem is the Vbolt.  That doesn’t mean the lip seals are not about to start leaking of course !!

We launch every April and haul every Sep anyway so I’m not so concerned about that aspect.

Best regards
Dean
A54-154


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

 

Dean,

What you have doesn't agree with the way I remember the V Bolt. I don't have a photo of the V Bolt, but do have a photo of a new drain bolt to be used if you do not have a line cutter. You can see the metal washer and the absence of that smaller O ring that you have. I am fairly sure that this is what you need, rather than what you have.
image.png
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 12:47 PM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi,
I’ve removed the V bolt completely and have drained down the oil.  The attached pic shows the whole assembly. Two O-rings and two washers on the shaft. The O-ring at the top of the threaded shaft has perished.  The O-ring nearest the V is slightly damaged . 

I’m still not exactly sure how this assembly works to ensure both a tight seal and a correct vertical alignment of the V.

Maybe the real seal ends up being the mastic that Ian mentioned!

Kent, I’m not so keen to change the lip seals without any clear evidence that I need to do that.
I have not changed them before, and there was no problem until the ropecutter was installed in April this year. The evidence is very clear that the current problem is the Vbolt.  That doesn’t mean the lip seals are not about to start leaking of course !!

We launch every April and haul every Sep anyway so I’m not so concerned about that aspect.

Best regards
Dean
A54-154


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dean Gillies
 


Hi,
I’ve removed the V bolt completely and have drained down the oil.  The attached pic shows the whole assembly. Two O-rings and two washers on the shaft. The O-ring at the top of the threaded shaft has perished.  The O-ring nearest the V is slightly damaged . 

I’m still not exactly sure how this assembly works to ensure both a tight seal and a correct vertical alignment of the V.

Maybe the real seal ends up being the mastic that Ian mentioned!

Kent, I’m not so keen to change the lip seals without any clear evidence that I need to do that.
I have not changed them before, and there was no problem until the ropecutter was installed in April this year. The evidence is very clear that the current problem is the Vbolt.  That doesn’t mean the lip seals are not about to start leaking of course !!

We launch every April and haul every Sep anyway so I’m not so concerned about that aspect.

Best regards
Dean
A54-154


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Paul Osterberg
 

Ian and Judy
What is Mastic? 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Dean , 
 Can’t help with the alignment of the bolt but when  the Amel guy in La Rochelle did the first oil change on our SM back in 2001 he added a touch of mastic to the head of that bolt to help to seal it . I have followed that since . 
Ian and Judy , Pen Azen SM 302 Greece


On 4 Sep 2019, at 16:20, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi folks,
We are on the hard stand and I started the job of replacing the C-Drive lower seals since my C-Drive oil has gone a little like a chocolate milkshake.
When we came ashore, I noticed a trickle of oil down the keel which implied the lower seals were leaking oil.
 
This afternoon I removed the autoprop and the Spurs linecutter which I installed last year to get at the V-bolt in order to drain the oil.  After removing these it became clear that the source of the leakage is the V-bolt, and not the C-Drive shaft seals, which do not show any form of leakage.

The rubber O-seal on the V bolt appears to have perished and allowed water in and oil out of the C-Drive. I’m fairly sure the O-seal was provided by Amel when I ordered the V bolt last year. The V bolt itself was rather loose today, and I needed to rotate it an additional 35-45degrees clockwise in order to be fully tight.  In this position, the V-bolt does not align with the line-cutter, so that is a problem.

The solution would appear to be to fit a new seal under the V-bolt. However, it’s a concern that the previous O-seal perished in 6 months in the water.

Have others found this problem, and is there a better solution than simply replacing the seal?

I have a general philosophy of not fixing stuff that’s not broken, so I’m now considering leaving the shaft seals (lip seals) intact. The oil was perfect before I installed the line cutter in April, and close inspection shows no visible leakage from the shaft seals.

Thought ?

Dean
SY Stella
A54-154










<E1358E97-42C4-4B5E-AD2D-1BE660280E18.jpeg>


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

karkauai
 

 Hi Dean,

How long has it been since you change the prop shaft seals?

I would recommend that you go ahead and change them now. You have no way of knowing if water is getting in there as well as through the V bolt hole.  If you don’t change them now, and you go back in the water to find it’s still getting water into the oil, you’ll have to haul out again.

Be sure to follow the instructions on this site completely.  I have been putting my seals in as several have suggested to keep water out more than to keep oil in.  That’s because I’ve never lost oil and I have had water ingress a few times in the past.  Since changing orientation of the seals from forward to aft so that on the first one in, the open spring side faces forward, the next two aft, I have had no water in the oil and no loss of oil for 6 years.  I am overdue for a haul out by almost a year and just noticed some loss of oil.

Others here, notably Bill R, strongly recommend that you follow Amel’s recommendation of orienting the seals forward, forward, then aft, so that the first two are keeping oil in and the last is keeping water out.

You pays your money and takes your choice.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243


On Sep 4, 2019, at 12:21 PM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Nick,
We are ashore, masts up in Ardrossan.
yep it’s a windy place, I lived here for a year when I was a kid. Its averaging 30 gusting 40 knots today.
No boatcover this year!
Cheers
Dean


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dean Gillies
 

Nick,
We are ashore, masts up in Ardrossan.
yep it’s a windy place, I lived here for a year when I was a kid. Its averaging 30 gusting 40 knots today.
No boatcover this year!
Cheers
Dean


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dean Gillies
 

Right, thanks Bill.
There was no washer, just the O Ring seal.
I’ll take it up with Amel.
Cheers
Dean


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Dean,



Slightly off topic, where are you hauled out in Scotland? Masts down? It will be pretty windy in that part of the world over the winter months.

Nick

On 4 Sep 2019, at 16:19, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi folks,
We are on the hard stand and I started the job of replacing the C-Drive lower seals since my C-Drive oil has gone a little like a chocolate milkshake.
When we came ashore, I noticed a trickle of oil down the keel which implied the lower seals were leaking oil.
 
This afternoon I removed the autoprop and the Spurs linecutter which I installed last year to get at the V-bolt in order to drain the oil.  After removing these it became clear that the source of the leakage is the V-bolt, and not the C-Drive shaft seals, which do not show any form of leakage.

The rubber O-seal on the V bolt appears to have perished and allowed water in and oil out of the C-Drive. I’m fairly sure the O-seal was provided by Amel when I ordered the V bolt last year. The V bolt itself was rather loose today, and I needed to rotate it an additional 35-45degrees clockwise in order to be fully tight.  In this position, the V-bolt does not align with the line-cutter, so that is a problem.

The solution would appear to be to fit a new seal under the V-bolt. However, it’s a concern that the previous O-seal perished in 6 months in the water.

Have others found this problem, and is there a better solution than simply replacing the seal?

I have a general philosophy of not fixing stuff that’s not broken, so I’m now considering leaving the shaft seals (lip seals) intact. The oil was perfect before I installed the line cutter in April, and close inspection shows no visible leakage from the shaft seals.

Thought ?

Dean
SY Stella
A54-154










<E1358E97-42C4-4B5E-AD2D-1BE660280E18.jpeg>


Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter

 

You may be missing the washer which should have been supplied by Amel. This washer and the O ring seal the V bolt. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Sep 4, 2019, 10:20 AM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:
Hi folks,
We are on the hard stand and I started the job of replacing the C-Drive lower seals since my C-Drive oil has gone a little like a chocolate milkshake.
When we came ashore, I noticed a trickle of oil down the keel which implied the lower seals were leaking oil.
 
This afternoon I removed the autoprop and the Spurs linecutter which I installed last year to get at the V-bolt in order to drain the oil.  After removing these it became clear that the source of the leakage is the V-bolt, and not the C-Drive shaft seals, which do not show any form of leakage.

The rubber O-seal on the V bolt appears to have perished and allowed water in and oil out of the C-Drive. I’m fairly sure the O-seal was provided by Amel when I ordered the V bolt last year. The V bolt itself was rather loose today, and I needed to rotate it an additional 35-45degrees clockwise in order to be fully tight.  In this position, the V-bolt does not align with the line-cutter, so that is a problem.

The solution would appear to be to fit a new seal under the V-bolt. However, it’s a concern that the previous O-seal perished in 6 months in the water.

Have others found this problem, and is there a better solution than simply replacing the seal?

I have a general philosophy of not fixing stuff that’s not broken, so I’m now considering leaving the shaft seals (lip seals) intact. The oil was perfect before I installed the line cutter in April, and close inspection shows no visible leakage from the shaft seals.

Thought ?

Dean
SY Stella
A54-154











C-Drive vs Linecutter

Dean Gillies
 

Hi folks,
We are on the hard stand and I started the job of replacing the C-Drive lower seals since my C-Drive oil has gone a little like a chocolate milkshake.
When we came ashore, I noticed a trickle of oil down the keel which implied the lower seals were leaking oil.
 
This afternoon I removed the autoprop and the Spurs linecutter which I installed last year to get at the V-bolt in order to drain the oil.  After removing these it became clear that the source of the leakage is the V-bolt, and not the C-Drive shaft seals, which do not show any form of leakage.

The rubber O-seal on the V bolt appears to have perished and allowed water in and oil out of the C-Drive. I’m fairly sure the O-seal was provided by Amel when I ordered the V bolt last year. The V bolt itself was rather loose today, and I needed to rotate it an additional 35-45degrees clockwise in order to be fully tight.  In this position, the V-bolt does not align with the line-cutter, so that is a problem.

The solution would appear to be to fit a new seal under the V-bolt. However, it’s a concern that the previous O-seal perished in 6 months in the water.

Have others found this problem, and is there a better solution than simply replacing the seal?

I have a general philosophy of not fixing stuff that’s not broken, so I’m now considering leaving the shaft seals (lip seals) intact. The oil was perfect before I installed the line cutter in April, and close inspection shows no visible leakage from the shaft seals.

Thought ?

Dean
SY Stella
A54-154











Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal

Mark McGovern
 

Mike,

No problem.  JL Mertz's Speedi-Sleeve idea is a good one too as the surface finish on the shaft is really not good enough to ensure a good seal with the oil seal. 

Regarding the Annapolis Boat Show, we will definitely be at the show but we are not sure if we will taking Cara or just driving.  It's such a zoo around there at that time and we can't take the days off work to get there early enough to be ensured of a decent anchoring spot.  Definitely let me know what the plans are as they develop!

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Hi Ian,

If you speech of the Speedisleeve flag, NO

I reduce the seize of the shaft with sand paper to have the exactly same diameter of the inner size of the seals, and ad a lithe "epoxy (araldit)" , the flag protect the bearing ....

Bonne chance

JL MERTZ

CottonBay



Le 04/09/2019 à 13:56, ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> a écrit :
Hi J....

 When you fitted the Speedisleeve did you remove the flange ?

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of jlm@... <jlm@...>
Sent: 03 September 2019 20:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal
 
Hello Mark,


I used 10 years ago SKF Speedi-Sleeve, I posted photos ... it is wonderful .... never change it ! ....I can recommand you this

JL Mertz

CottonBay



Le 03/09/2019 à 21:30, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io a écrit :

Mark, indeed there were some scratches on the plastic shaft. Will gently sand them out, measure, and go with the 29mm seal.

Thanks for the insight!

Seems like a Amel mini-rendezvous may be happening at the Annapolis Boat Show. Might you be coming up? We plan on being there Thursday and Friday. Would be great to meet.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 4:26 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal

 

Mike,

I did my first bowthruster service this past winter and used a 29x42x8 seal.  It was a tight fit but it works.  The seal I replaced was also a 29mm ID seal.  There was no oil leaking from the seal while the boat was sitting on the hard after the service and the oil is still clear - not the "cafe creme" looking mixture of oil and water.  However, when I disassembled the unit to replace the bearings (preventatively) I could feel a small groove in the shaft where the previous seal sat.  The shaft was also discolored with a brown-ish stain at that point:



I consulted with Olivier Beaute and he told me that if I felt any kind of groove that I should try to gently sand it out with 600 grit sandpaper and water.  He also said that if I could NOT feel anything that I should NOT sand it but just clean it as sanding the shaft comes with it's own risks.  I measured the shaft OD at the point in the shaft where the oil seal sits with calipers and found that it was about 29.5mm so there was plenty of "meat" on the shaft for a 29mm ID oil seal so I wet-sanded the shaft smooth, re-assembled everything and so far, so good.  However, a 30mm ID seal would have likely resulting in a static oil leak like you have and certainly would have allowed water to enter the bowthruster during use  Consider taking the entire bowthruster shaft apart, measure the shaft OD and inspect it for any damage where the oil seal sits.  Also check the OD for any damage as well. 

-- 
Mark McGoverntly 
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

With regard to the brown wire and a Mastervolt Alpha Pro regulator: the On/Off control of the regulator _is_ the brown wire.  In fact, if the brown wire is not interrupted at installation time via an interface to your engine's ignition key or to an oil pressure switch, then the regulator will always be on 24x7 and it will either burn up the alternator windings or discharge the batteries, whichever happens first.  Therefore I agree that yes, it is up to Victron to provide the signal necessary for you to install the relay that will interrupt the brown wire and turn off the regulator.  Hopefully the Schneider switch Victron proposes will address your issue.

Non-automated options for switching off the Alpha Pro regulator, short of manually pulling off the brown wire, include:

1.  Install an in-line manual switch

2.  Set up a "Alternator Off" / "Alternator On" virtual switch buttons on a Mastervolt EasyView screen.  This is what I have done.  I've never had occasion to need to use these buttons in anger, as the regulator has proven to be 100% reliable with regards to voltages, floats, temperatures, etc., but it is important to have this emergency kill available, just in case.

3.  Connect via USB to the Mastervolt MasterBus.  On the MasterAdjust software, select the option to "Configure" the regulator.  This will turn off the regulator and it will remain off until the configuration is again locked down.