Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Hi Nick,
I’m not implying you mast is dancing on the deck in rough seas but as you rightfully say there is flexibility in the stays, the hull itself and what have you not. As both the deck under the mast and the underside of the mast have quite hard surfaces, the pad is just there to take the edge off the impact, much like the silent blocks in the suspension of a car. Regrettably I was not there when they replaced the pad, but someone told me they use a rig that has some hydraulic jacks. You could ask them about it. Regards, Arno, SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue
Mark, There has been some information out here that the seal is VA45mmX60mmX7mm Seal OR 45mmX58mmX7mm. The middle dimension is the shaft size. I know for a fact that Amel 54 #69 had a 58mm shaft. One SM owner recorded his as 60mm, but was not 100% sure. Can you verify this issue? Your advice certainly applies to all Santorins, Super Maramus, and 54s. Bill --
On Wed, Sep 18, 2019 at 5:43 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote: Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder. It's the one circled in RED in the picture below:
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Re: Steyr impeller maintenance
Hello Jose
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I am going to remove the raw water pump and replace the impeller that way, it may take longer but I expect it to be easier. I’ll let you know if it does work out easier Regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17
On 19 Sep 2019, at 12:54 am, Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
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Re: Steyr impeller maintenance
Jose Alegria
Paul hello
You are correct; it is almost impossible take out the impeller without remove the oil filter first. I change the impeller and after take out the oil filter is ± easy change the impeller Regards Jose Alegria Amel55#003 - MERIT
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue
Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder. It's the one circled in RED in the picture below:
I would advise you have look at it ASAP and put it on your annual maintenance list to at least inspect it's condition and if it's at all questionable, replace it. It costs less than $5 to buy a new one but could end up costing you hundreds of $ or more if it fails and you destroy the gears. Don't be like me and wait until your main furler seizes before you check it! Here is a picture of my seal. It actually has a split in it so I use the term "seal" loosely: I can confirm that it is a VA-45 or VA-045 V-ring Seal as you can faintly see "VA 45" molded into the rubber in the upper left side of the picture. The failed seal has allowed saltwater, rainwater and dirt to enter the furler cylinder for some time now and it eventually destroyed the tapered roller bearing that sits at the top of the shaft. Here is what my bearing looked like when I got it off the shaft AFTER I cleaned it up: Needless to say the bearing is completely destroyed. Obviously this did not happen overnight but has been going on for a long time. I've owned my boat for just over two years now and surprisingly the main furler has worked almost all of the time. It did pop a breaker now and again but I attributed that to the motor brushes being old and worn and all the carbon dust that was inside the motor when I took it apart this spring to clean and change the brushes. I'm sure that the worn brushes and carbon dust did not help things, but the main culprit was clearly the corroded roller bearing caused by the failed V-ring Seal. I would highly recommend that you have look at your furler seal now and inspect it on regular basis. If you find it cracked, damaged or missing I suggest that you take the furler assembly down and open it up, clean the inside and inspect the bearing as well as the other ball bearing, three lip seals, and two o-rings that are inside. It does not take that long nor require any special tools to do this tear down and inspection. If you do need to change bearings, a bearing puller certainly makes the job easier. Thanks to Duane (Wanderer) and Pat (Shenanigans) and others on this forum for some excellent pictures, part numbers and sources for replacement parts. Some if the information is spread around a bit here so once I am sure that I have all of the correct information regarding all the replacement parts that I needed to do the rebuild I will make another post here to try to get it all in one place. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: EPIRB mounting location
Vic Fryzel
Where did you end up mounting it?
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Porter, One of the best Amel riggers is Phil Ash, Gulf Harbour Rigging in Gulf harbour Marina. Gulf Harbour Rigging Gulf Harbour Marina P.O.Box 729 Whangaparaoa 0943 Auckland New Zealand Phone: +64 9 424 1320 Mobile: +64 27 292 7198 Email: phil"at"gulfharbourrigging.co.nz The Amel Matinique tool is basically a custom metal frame used with a hydraulic jack that lifts the mast just high enough to replace the mast pad. I have seen it, but do not have a photo of it. --
On Wed, Sep 18, 2019 at 1:16 PM Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel
Patrick McAneny
Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Porter McRoberts
Our main past pad is nearly nonexistent now. Plan to change it in NZ. The shrouds are still incredibly tight, on the lee side as well. I suspect a slight loosening of the forestay. When changing load directions there is a small shimmy in the boat which I suspect is new, but I doubt myself.
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Regardless, the rig seems tight and integrous (with a magnifying glass at the shroud based) but plan on a change in NZ, the primary reason being this pad, and going into the 10th year new wire seems prudent. I am considering doing the rewire myself, ordering the ACMO and then having a rigger check my work vs, since I have to get a crane to lift the mast, just have the whole thing done by a rigger- wire and all. The only reason I have to pull the mast is this mast pad: has anyone seen the Martinique gizmo that obviates that need in order to replace the pad? Any experience with rerigging one’s self? Any suggestions for a rigger around Auckland? As always thanks for your help. This forum is such a wonderful resource. Porter McRoberts A54-152 Vava’u Tonga
On Sep 19, 2019, at 6:54 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:
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Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Hi Arno,
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Did the guys in Martinique actually tell you the pad was to dampen the load on the deck when pounding? I can not imagine that there will really be any give in it, after the rig is tensioned. The worst thing for a mast is for it to go slack and then tight again. If the pad really is for that purpose then that is what would happen, obviously to a very small degree. The compression load on that mast base must be immense. If we say that the rigging is tensioned to 50% of the wire strength and work out the angles, the downward vector of all the shroud tensions added together must be in the order of 50-100 tons. (very quick mental arithmetic) Although Amels are very well constructed there must be much more spring in the whole structure of the boat than that 5mm plate. All boats bend a little, which is most of the reason that when sailing in a stiff breeze there is much less tension on the leeward shrouds. That and the stretch the wire itself, which is actually quite a lot. I do not know for sure but I think the pad is to prevent the paint on the base of the mast from chipping. As you point out it is interesting to note that the mizzen plate lasts longer. Maybe that is not from less compression but because it is less exposed to sun and sea. It is interesting, and I would like to know for sure. Nick Amelia AML54-019
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Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel
I use shokcord to secure the steering wheel that give some flex.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 Lagos, Portugal
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Hi Ruedi,
Strange answer you have got from Amel as the crew in Martinique has even build a special rig to replace the pad with a standing mast. It is meant to dampen the forces of the mast on the deck when sailing turbulent seas. Mine was replaced when I bought the boat (July 2018), nine years old. The one under the mizzen does not receive much pounding so it stays much better over time. Regards, Arno SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Hi Ruedi,
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The pad under my mast is pretty feeble and crumbly. I have scraped it out and regularly blast it with fresh water. It is barely visible now. As for the rig tension, to my eye the main mast on Amelia could do with a touch more rake aft, so I have left the forstay and staysail stay and baby stay as they were and tensioned the rest a turn or two. It is all bar taught and even when sailing in say 15 knots true wind the lee shrouds are still very firm. I have also had a good look at the mast base when sailing upwind at 9 knots boat speed, dropping off waves. There is no movement. So I am happy to leave it be until such a time that I pull the mast down when I will have a new Tufnol one made. Happy sailing Nick Amelia AML 54-019
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Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad
Roque
Hi Ruedi If the leak you are worried about is water getting inside the boat, then don’t. This pad is not intended to seal that. It is made out of PU (polyurethane), 90 SH (“hardness”), 5 mm thick. Several A54 reported a short life span of this material. Mine was paper thin after 8 years. The Mizzen pad usually holds longer. I have discussed this with a few experienced Amel owners and with a very knowledgeable Naval Engineer who build boats over 100 ft. and it seems that replacing it with phenolic laminated (such as Tufnol), would be an improvement. It is a little harder (103 SH), though. Regarding Amel statement that “Even if it looks ugly and very worn there is no need to change it”, I would only add that, as it gets thinner and thinner, you have to check and adjust the standing rigging. Enjoy Sicily Roque Attika A54 117 Paraty- Rio de Janeiro Em qua, 18 de set de 2019 às 06:48, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> escreveu:
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Re: Amel OEM Rigging
Gerhard Mueller
I just get new shrouds here in Kalamata, Greece, manufactured by a shop in Athen, Greece and fitted by the sailmaker here. For the Sharki the total is 2800,- Euro.
-- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: OG Maramu Mizzen Sheet Cars
Gerhard Mueller
Dennis is correct.
No problem to order a machine shop for a new disk. Often the pin is still OK. I have changed all disks. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: OG Maramu Mizzen Sheet Cars
sbmesasailor
Hi Jeremy, I had a failure just like yours and it was no problem and not very expensive to have a machine shop produce a new disk and pin. Dennis Libertad Maramu #121
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Re: Re :[AmelYachtOwners] OG Maramu Mizzen Sheet Cars
Don Green has a business of making sheaves and rebuilding Genoa cars and blocks.
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You can find him on FaceBook and the Sailing and Cruising Page. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Sep 18, 2019, at 1:37 AM, christian alby via Groups.Io <calbyy@...> wrote:
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Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel
jlm@jlmertz.fr
Hi Ruedi, The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ... JLMERTZ CottonBay
Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf
Waldispuehl a écrit :
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