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Re: Chain and Anchor
My old chain came with the boat in 2005. The former owner never changed. It looked unsafe after 12 years. Stainless can break immediately from tiny little rust holes (I believe the English word is pitting).
Regards, Alex
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Re: Antifouling for the Mediterranean
David Crisp
Many thanks to you all for the rapid response, advice and a clear consensus. I'll go with 2 coats of the 350.
Great to back aboard an Amel again. About 15 years ago I bought a SM near Nice and took her to Caribbean and back to the UK during a 3 year sabbatical. This time I've just retired.... So far, after a month, very pleased with the 54, she has many of the improvements I imagined in my mind whilst living aboard the SM. Fair winds and following seas to all. David SY Wilna Grace
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Re: Antifouling for the Mediterranean
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi David;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
We applied 3 coats of micron 350 last year in Malta. The boat has been in the water since and the result is fine so far. We had used micron 66, when it was available , and it worked fine for 3 years in the Med. micron does recommend 3 coats if you intend
to go a full 2 years or
More.
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
On Sep 30, 2019, at 9:04 AM, David Crisp via Groups.Io <david@...> wrote:
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Re: Antifouling for the Mediterranean
Hi David,
For a 2 years in water you need my experiance 3 Layer Micron 350. You can see this also on the HP from International. Liebe Grüsse / Best regards Arnold SY Zephyr SM 203 Am 30.09.2019 um 09:04 schrieb David Crisp <david@...>: Hi all, Just acquired an Amel 54 (#58) and having her hauled and anti-fouled. I am going to remain in the Mediterranean and some advice would be valued. The yard is offering International Unipro or for an extra €210 per coat International 350. A number of questions:- (1) One or two anti-fouling coats? (2) If two coats is it likely to last two years? (2 years would fit well with the changing the propshaft bushing/seals and bow thruster maintenance} (2) Is International 350 worth the extra money? Best David Crisp, SY Wilna Grace -- SY Zephyr SM203
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Re: Antifouling for the Mediterranean
Hi David
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Depending on what antifoul is on there already, you should find this out and check what you can use next or how to prepare Once the hull is prepared and you know the gel shield is good 2 good and thorough coats of international 350 is what I would recommend as I have used this and international micro extra UE for many years and it should last at least two full years, it’s worth the cost compared to cheaper products that may not last as long, of course this is my experience You may want to check the difference between international micron extra eu, I’m not sure but maybe formulated better for the Mediterranean Of course supervising the preparation and application is well recommended as preparation is as important as application and the correct product I once achieved 3 years out of two good coats of international however I did need to dive every few months during the third year to remove some growth, which you should do regardless to polish your prop and other fittings Congratulations and all the best with you wonderful boat I hope this assists Kind regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17
On 30 Sep 2019, at 9:04 am, David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
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Antifouling for the Mediterranean
David Crisp
Hi all,
Just acquired an Amel 54 (#58) and having her hauled and anti-fouled. I am going to remain in the Mediterranean and some advice would be valued. The yard is offering International Unipro or for an extra €210 per coat International 350. A number of questions:- (1) One or two anti-fouling coats? (2) If two coats is it likely to last two years? (2 years would fit well with the changing the propshaft bushing/seals and bow thruster maintenance} (2) Is International 350 worth the extra money? Best David Crisp, SY Wilna Grace
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Re: Headsail furler issues
Adam Body
Thanks Vladimir and Craig..Does the motor simply pop off?? The worm drive doesnt get tangled?? If that is the case, I will do that asap rather than wait for the auto electrician....
-- Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994
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Re: Solar and shade
Kelly Ran
Hi Joerg, We installed 500W worth of panels on our bimini - 5 x 100W. We did not have the budget (or eye) for a solar arch. I designed the system such that each panel has its own charge controller. When not sailing, we bring the boom to one side, so only one panel (out of five) is shaded at any given time. In the Caribbean, we got 80+ Ah each day (@ 24V), which covered most *but not all* of our energy needs. In peak summer in Boston, we can stay on the hook indefinitely (many sunlight hours and less refrigeration power needed). kelly + ryan SM233 Iteration Boston
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 4:52 PM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
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Re: Solar and shade
Thanks for the image and thought Joerg
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I think the only productive way over the wheel house is again as you’re plan, 1 panel on either side of the boom with separate controllers or both panels wired in parallel is optimum. 1 panel covering that area would not be very productive as it would be shaded most of the time, even the shading from stay wires will greatly reduce production of that and any other panel connected in series. The most productive position is aft over the dingy davits and if possible above the height of the mizzen boom, I expect this is why there are so many solar arches added to the aft these days... Kind regards Paul
On 29 Sep 2019, at 9:02 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:
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Re: Solar and shade
Joerg Esdorn
very helpful, yes, thanks much Paul. I have 400W in the same space - that's an easy upgrade. I figure I can install at least 500W on the wheel house. Space available over the fixed portion up to the opening hatches is about 1300 long x2100 wide - so could have 2 panels with separate regulator - one port, one starboard. I have to find panels that are 1300 long and about 1000 wide. Remember that my main sheet isn't an issue because it ends on the mizzen mast, not the wheel house. But A55 No. 3 with your mainsheet setup has one panel and the owner is very happy with it. See pic.
Cheers Joerg Joerg Esdorn A55 Kincsem
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Re: Water maker end cap leak
Thanks Mark. That's exactly what I needed. Mark F is good and has helped me in the past. I'll give him a call. Hope you are enjoying your time in the western carribean. We follow your web page with great interest.
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 12:00 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Water maker end cap leak
Chuck,
I recently purchased some of those from:
Mark Fruehauf
They ship worldwide.
Item# 007-001 Desc: SERTO – SO 21121
$8.64 ea.
These do thread into the end-caps and have very delicate threads. Do not over-tighten. You need to remove the water-maker tubes from the holder for replacement.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Chuck_Kim_Joy
Greetings All,
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Re: Water maker end cap leak
Chuck, I was told that these low pressure fittings are available at Home Depot. Unfortunately, I do not have further information. Bill --
On Sat, Sep 28, 2019 at 5:53 PM Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote: Greetings All,
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Re: Solar and shade
This is my solar panels at present, 2x Panasonic 330w/24v delivers around max 16A (achieving around 120-150ah per day average) and very secure with no issues for wind or waves and looks low key, it’s the width and length of the davits, I hope helps Joerg:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 29 Sep 2019, at 3:29 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:
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Re: Solar and shade
Joerg Esdorn
Thanks guys. I may upgrade the stern panels as well but I am concerned about windage, waves and esthetics. So for me, I will never have enough solar to run the entire boat at anchor. At sea, I have hydro which covers a lot.
Joerg Esdorn A55 Kincsem
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Re: Headsail furler issues
Adam - Interesting idea from Vladimir - worth popping the motor off the gearbox to see if it works both ways by itself.
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Re: Headsail furler issues
VLADIMIR SONSEV
It can be mechanical problem in the worm gear mechanism. It happened on my boat. The bearing on one side of the worm failed and was jamming one direction of rotation. Vladimir SM345
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 9:45 AM Adam Body <adamgcbody@...> wrote: Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses. I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok. So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
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Re: Headsail furler issues
Adam Body
Thank you Ian,Bill and Danny for the very helpful responses. I have checked the "in" solenoid, pressed the button on the bottom, and there is 24 V coming through (measured by multimeter so no load). It does have a very healthy click sound when the cockpit switch is activated, so the likelihood is that it is ok. So..... then I located new brushes on the boat, and replaced all 4. There was quite a bit of graphite dust when I took off the bottom plastic brush covers. But .... the problem persists! The "out rotation" works fine. The "in" rotation works very infrequently, and then only after holding the cockpit switch down for an extended few seconds. I am now thinking I need to remove the motor and take it to an auto electrician to clean it up and test the windings, armature etc.
-- Adam Body "Flora" SM 0030017SM 128 Annee 1994
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Re: Headsail furler issues
Ian Park
Try tapping the motor with a soft mallet or something similar. It worked for me until I tidied the brushes up. I still need to order some new ones at the end of the season, but removing the brushes and cleaning them with fine abrasive paper ensured they slid in their mountings. Another issue was that the springs had corroded at the contact with the carbon brushes, so I removed them and carefully bent them to provide a good contact again. Problem temporarily solved until I get the new springs and brushes..
But try a brisk tap on the motor first! Ian Ocean Hobo SN96
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Re: Solar and shade
Thanks Scott for both images, it looked good and strong for sure and a reasonable price
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kind Regards Paul
On 29 Sep 2019, at 12:50 am, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
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