1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

karkauai
 

It’s just under 1/8” about 5mm

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Oct 10, 2019, at 9:04 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



Hi Kent,

Would you mind measuring the wall thickness of this gaskefw

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 11:39 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

 

Hi Eric.  They are 25mm across the base and12mm high.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

 

On Oct 9, 2019, at 5:10 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 



Hi Kent,

Thanks for the photos.

What are the dimensions of the seals?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 4:43 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

 

Hi Steve,

I paid 8.70€/M plus shipping. I’m not sure she has enough to do another boat.  She couldn’t tell me anything about it when I was placing my order.  Said she had Some of several different profiles that had been used over the years, and sent me the one she did based on my description and pic of my original.  It sounded like that may be the last of what she has.  It is a stock design that should be available considerable cheaper where ever you are (Hawaii?)

 

Malama mai ka’i nui loa lawe, ko’u ho’aloha.

 

A hui hou.

Kent

Kristy

SM 243




On Oct 9, 2019, at 3:45 PM, Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:



Hi Kent,

 

What is Amel charging per meter for the material?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Aloha SM 72

Hawaii


On Oct 9, 2019, at 09:39, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

I got the seals from Maud at Amel France.  They are half-round with a stiff bottom and what I think is neoprene rounded top.  The top is very soft and appears to be exactly the same as the originals.  The attached pics show the old (on the left) and new seals, the adhesive strips, and how Amel cut a small “V” at the site where the hinge bolt/washer/nut come close to the seal.  It is difficult to make the corners exact, I chose to add silicone caulk inside the corners and at the sites where the wedge was cut out to make room for the bolt.

Hardest part is reinstalling as it requires working on both sides of the hatch to tighten the hinge bolts.  Made easier by replacing the slot head bolts with Phillips heads.  Would be much easier with two people.


I will report again in a month or two to let you know how well it worked.

<351FA7CE-99C3-4082-956D-3396F2DE8A66.jpeg><A646EDF3-48E5-4C56-980C-CC4BA3A297FB.jpeg><70851A93-5550-45FD-A38A-6AC4660B65A1.jpeg>
Companion way for removal

smiles bernard
 

Hello

In a big downpour in the way back home to via Azores we had heavy driving rain from the rear and some made its way inside via the companion way lifting door

I think it was running down the outer face of the door then finding its way inside under the companionway steps.

I’ve seen a number of threads about resealing the companion way door but I’m still unsure how to remove it

The ply veneer on ours needs some love so I was thinking of removing the door, sorting the veneer and seal at the same time

Any hints or tips re door removal and resealing much appreciated

All the best

Miles
Maramu #162
Plymouth uk
Main mast seal/pad replacement #replacement #solution

Barry Connor
 

Hi, Barry from Amel 54 #17

 

 

 

As already discussed in these topics like Amel 54 main mast seal, Mast foot rubber seal pad or Mast foot rubber seal pad I replaced my main mast pad in Hyeres. 

Amel Hyeres could not do the work due to schedule and recommended https://goo.gl/maps/xfvc617B1V2vpsUw5, contacts Adeline and Didier. At first they quoted for and wanted to remove the complete mast and then replace the seal/pad and put the mainmast back in place. That would mean disconnecting all electrical and data cables from the mast. I had checked and saw that all electrical and other cables going up the mast had slack enough for raising the mast a few inches, more than 50mm slack.

Having read that the pad could be replaced by just raising the mast couple inches (40mm) I convinced them to do this instead of taking the whole mast down.

Firstly all the rigging was marked and then loosened. The crane operator then began to raise the mast mm by mm. When the mast was high enough to get the small screwdrivers and picks under we removed all the bits from the old pad. Then we used scouring pads to smooth the bottom of the mast and deck.

As we had to cut the pad to get it around the 2 collars going into the deck from the mast bottom that the wiring goes through we had to permanently seal the pad where we made the cuts with 3M 5200. The mast was then lowered and the stays were tightened to the marked positions. The lifting, putting the new pad under the mast and lowering took no more than 1 hour, the preparation took a few hours and the re-tightening took also a few hours.

The crane operator was a pro and had a very precise lifting crane, wind was blowing about 15 to 20 knots from the dock side, we kept an eye on the dockside main stay tension which we did not completely loosen during the lift. The mast was lifted with strap attached mid height and secured at the bottom, completely vertical lift.


Didier and rigger Steve had not done this before, they now know how to do it. My cost was just under €2,000, I think that they can do it for less now that they know how. I bought the pad from Sonja at Amel Hyeres.

I have attached some photos of the work and what my old pad looked like when it came out from under the mast.

Sonja of Amel Hyeres also suppled me a new upgraded deck stem attachment for my main furler, the original attachment by Amel in 2006 was only 6mm and the new stainless steel attachment was now 10mm. This was replaced by Didier and Steve. 

Thanks to Mohammad of B & B Kokomo who had upgraded his furlers, he sent me his old staysail furler which showed very little use, this is installed now as my main furler with mine now stowed as a spare. Amel Hyeres were able to supply me with 2 spare belts for these furlers. Labour cost for all this €2,000. I would recommend that you mark the rigging screw with some paint rather than electrical tape before starting to loosen the rigging.

Please contact me if you have any questions about this.

Best Regards to all.

Barry and Penny
"S/V Lady Penelope II'
Amel 54. #17
Almerimar Marina,  Spain
On route to Caribbean
Re: Cabin sole revarnish

James Alton
 

Miles,
   The way I fix teak plywood that has been damaged is to find some teak of a smilar grain and colour to do the patching rather than to use just epoxy.  I rip the teak usually using a table saw to a thickness just a bit more that the original.  Cut my patch pcs. Slightly larger than the areas to be repaired.  I note and line up the grain direction when cutting these patch pcs.  Then I lay the patch pcs. Over the areas to be repaired and mark with a fine pencil. A sharp chiesel and some patience should give you a tight fitting pc.  Epoxy in place,  cure and then plane/scrap or sand to thickness.  

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Enroute to Cephalonia



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 10/12/19 1:15 AM (GMT+02:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Cabin sole revarnish

Many thanks Denise 👍

On a few places on the cabin sole the ply has chipped at locker edges. Has anyone experience of how to fix this?
I was thinking of colouring as necessary then building up the height with a little epoxy before applying the varnish / polyurethane 

If so how best to thicken the epoxy to fill the chipped gaps but still remaining ‘clear’

Thanks again 

Miles


On 1 Oct 2019, at 14:19, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Miles,

We used Waterlox on a 40 year old cabin sole with beautiful results.  https://www.waterlox.com/marine  

An big advantage is that you can re-coat at any time to build the finish,  fix a problem spot, or give a refresh.

Good luck!
Denise
s/v CARA
SM #440
Chesapeake Bay
<Bristol After.jpg><Bristol Before.jpg>

Re: Cabin sole revarnish

smiles bernard
 

Many thanks Denise 👍

On a few places on the cabin sole the ply has chipped at locker edges. Has anyone experience of how to fix this?
I was thinking of colouring as necessary then building up the height with a little epoxy before applying the varnish / polyurethane 

If so how best to thicken the epoxy to fill the chipped gaps but still remaining ‘clear’

Thanks again 

Miles


On 1 Oct 2019, at 14:19, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:

Miles,

We used Waterlox on a 40 year old cabin sole with beautiful results.  https://www.waterlox.com/marine  

An big advantage is that you can re-coat at any time to build the finish,  fix a problem spot, or give a refresh.

Good luck!
Denise
s/v CARA
SM #440
Chesapeake Bay
<Bristol After.jpg><Bristol Before.jpg>

Re: Cabin sole revarnish

smiles bernard
 

Thanks for this info James
Very helpful and very good timing as I’m almost ready to go on that cabin sole. 
I’m not sure I can source min wax in the uk but it looks like a reasonably standard non marine home polyurethane for interior use. We have a few non marine brands here I’ll check up in. Ronseal for example

Thanks for the warning re the strippers potential to mess with gel coat. I’m pleased to say we now have coppercoat antifouling so I definitely won’t be using it on the hull but it’s worked brilliantly on the cabin sole and other bits and pieces of wood trim

Out of interest::


Many thanks again and very best wishes

Miles
Sv Maramu 162
Plymouth uk 




On 1 Oct 2019, at 18:38, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Miles,

   We have had good luck with the Min Wax Polyurathene on cabin soles and other high wear parts of yacht interiors.  The product is single part, low smell, wears well for a single part and is easy to sand and recoat when the time comes.  It does not have the best UV fesistance so I only use this product for down below projects.  A word of warning about strippers. We had to completely remove all of the gelcoat from the hull on a  customers 45' Ketch that was softened by a "gel coat safe" citrus based paint stripper that was left on the hull for an extended period of time.   So if you use a stripper I would  be careful to protect and rinse the gelcoat really well regardless of how safe the product is supposed to be.  Personally, I think protecting the gelcoat from heat and using a heat gun or a sharp scrapper as a a mechanical method such as dry scrapping would  be a better choice than a chemical stripper.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220
Lefkas Greece




Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...>
Date: 9/30/19 10:43 PM (GMT+02:00)
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Cabin sole revarnish

Hello fellow Amelians 
After over a year of solid family use my floors  are due a revarnish
I’ve found a great product for stripping the old varnish. Completely odourless and non toxic which is great for confined working spaces and works great. (Safe for grp too and can be used for antifould strip )


I’m still trying to figure out what to put on next and the process. 

My floorboards are a little stained so was planning a light rub down with 240 grit. Perhaps a team cleaner too?
Then revarnish. I’m only interested in single part options tbh so it would seem the main choices are:
- spar varnish for rapid build up followed by a harder wearing top layer or two such as epifanes rubbed effect
- polyurethane like that used in bowling alleys ie non marine specific but hard wearing
- an oil based option. I think sikens have a few options but I’m not sure it that’s at all suitable for interior 

Thoughts and expectations much appreciated

I’m leaning towards polyurethane but my only concern is how to ever remove it. I’m not keen on leaving the next keeper of sea Love a pig of a job when it comes to the next  cabin sole refurbishment 

All the very best
Miles
Sea Love #162
Re: Standing rigging on 54

Peter Forbes
 

Bill and Mohammad,

Thank you both very much - good data - we will probably re-rig in Autumn 2020 in La Rochelle. And paint touch up the spars at the same time. I also would like to replace the [rubber] impact ‘pad’ under the masts. Is there anything else one should do at that point?

Peter

Peter Forbes
Carango Amel 54 035
La Rochelle
00447836 209730
07836 209730

On 10 Oct 2019, at 17:50, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


In Jan 2019, complete 54 ACMO kit 9990.0€ not including freight or VAT. Weight 141.7kg.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Thu, Oct 10, 2019 at 11:27 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Peter;

 

The 6 shrouds for the main ran right about 5,000 Euros with tax and without shipping. The labor will run at or about 1,000 euros or less, if Nicky does it for you. He is a really fast and knowledgeable rigger. If you have other issues on your rig, like anemometer or lighting issues, he can take care of it all. You would have to pay his flight cost to wherever you are.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Peter Forbes via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 9:20 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Standing rigging on 54

 

Hi Mohammad,

 

Can you give me a round number price indication for ACMO kit and install labour?

 

I’m thinking of doing same next winter.

 

Peter Forbes

Carango Amel 54 #035

La Rochelle

 

On Thu, 10 Oct 2019 at 16:16, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Nick;

 

Amel has already worked out the pin size issues you are addressing. We had the same concerns, but after talking to ACMO, found out they have simply gone to a stronger material for the pins and kept the pin sizes the same as existing. You will receive everything required to make the change from ACMO. No changes to the boat are required in any way.

 

We just replaced all shrouds at the main with zero issues.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 8:09 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Standing rigging on 54

 

Nick,

 

ACMO will ship you what you need...they know what you need and have been doing this for a while. 

 

Regarding your question about substitutes of wire, etc., That needs to be answered by the 54's designer, Amel. I am sure their advice is to use the ACMO solution, since they worked out this solution with ACMO.

 

Hopefully, you are aware that the two intermediate shrouds also changed since the 54s introduction to 10mm, rather than 8mm.


--

CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School

   

 

 

 

On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 11:26 PM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.

--

Best wishes

Peter Forbes

+44 (0) 7836 209730
Re: Autopilot

CW Bill Rouse
 

Alex,

The steering cables and the steering rack connected to the helm are made by Ultraflex in Genoa, Italy (http://ultraflex.ultraflexgroup.com). According to SAV at Amel, the manufacturer suddenly and without notice stopped making these parts. SAV says that they are currently working on a possible solution. You should contact SAV at Amel (SAV at Amel.fr) and let them know that you are interested in a solution. The instructions for replacement are in the newest printing of my Amel Book.

The following is verified for a SM, and probably the same for a 54, but I am not sure about that. Ask SAV.
Steering cables: M61 FT25 498
Rack: T58 Reference 33014R
Rack End Caps (need 2) (no number)

The US Distributor is:
UFLEX USA
6442 Parkland Drive
Sarasota, Florida 34243 - USA
+1 (941) 351 2628
www.uflexusa.com
sales at uflexusa.com
I am currently in communication with the US distributor and with SAV.


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Fri, Oct 11, 2019 at 9:01 AM Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
thanks everybody for the input.
Yes, I have a Raymarine Autopilot as suggested by Bill (btw, it so far always worked perfect). The dust you see on the pic is located beneath the bed in the aft cabin (no electrical motors nearby). I'm just a little bit confused as you are talking about "cables", I see a metal stick coming out of that black unit. The dust seems to come out of that black unit. I see absolutely no oil anywhere. So bottom line, I sure will have this repaired sooner than later.
Does anyone know how I find the exact replacement unit?
Thanks, Alex

Re: Autopilot

Alexander Ramseyer
 

thanks everybody for the input.
Yes, I have a Raymarine Autopilot as suggested by Bill (btw, it so far always worked perfect). The dust you see on the pic is located beneath the bed in the aft cabin (no electrical motors nearby). I'm just a little bit confused as you are talking about "cables", I see a metal stick coming out of that black unit. The dust seems to come out of that black unit. I see absolutely no oil anywhere. So bottom line, I sure will have this repaired sooner than later.
Does anyone know how I find the exact replacement unit?
Thanks, Alex
Re: Annapolis Boat Show

Jamie Wendell
 

Pat, I was at the SD rendezvous last night at the MD Yacht Club and met up with Gary and Robin. They invited me to the party at Mangia tonight.
I had not been up on the Amel group, so I missed all the planning.
Gary seemed to think there would be room for 2 more at the table?
Hope that will be OK.
Thanks,
Jamie Wendell, Phantom Amel 54
Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

Matt Salatino
 

About 3 years ago, we performed an experiment. We removed the swivel.
After 3 years, anchoring 5 months at a time, we’ve never had a twisted chain. The anchor always came up properly.
I feel a bit more secure without having a swivel, that could be a potential failure point in my ground tackle.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 11, 2019, at 1:18 AM, Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:

Eamonn,
Be sure to carry spare Allen bolts for the Kong.
Last year when changing my chain end for end I began to unscrew the Allen Key bolt that holds the Kong together. The head of the Allen bolt just came away leaving the threaded section in place, and the rest of the Kong came apart in its regular pieces.
There was nothing wrong with the s/s on the Kong, but internally the head of the bolt had gone black (like carbon) and was rotten. No evidence of deterioration on the outside.
I don’t use a swivel any more. No problems with twisted chain! But I always swap ends every year.

Ian

Ocean Hobo, SN96
Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

James Alton
 

Greg,

   After a season of using our new Mantus without a swivel, I have decided that for next season we will add a  Mantus swivel since we occassionally have a twist or two in the chain.  It would seem that the anchor would rotate and unwind any twists but  I have discovered that the Mantus anchor is quite sensitive to water flow when the boat is moving and orients itself with the claw portion towards the direction of flow.  This tendency apparently prevents the twists from unwinding. This means that if we are moving forward while raising the anchor, the anchor will contact the roller either upside down or sideways almost every time.  While the anchor will flip rightside up  (with a big bang) if you keep pulling I worry about damàge to the bow or having the anchor roll off of the side the roller.  I have found that if we are in reverse and moving at a knot and a half or more that the anchor has oriented itself right side up everytime so far.  It has also given me a lot of backing practice.   For those with a  Maramu,  I can say for sure that the anchor locker easily holds 100 meters of 8mm chain without any need to lay it out a particular way.  In fact I am going to increase that to 120 meters.  I am using the Aqua7 chain which is grade 70 and is supposed to be stronger than the grade 40 10mm.  I like the reduced weight and having a longer rode.

James Alton
SV Sueno
Nafpaktos, Greece



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: Gregory Shea <gmshea@...>
Date: 10/11/19 2:16 AM (GMT+02:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Twisted chain - Amel 54

FWIW I never had a chain twist problem until I tried the arrangement described by Eamonn. With 10mm galvanised chain, three chain links followed by the kong swivel I immediately had twist problems and the chain wanted to jump off the gypsy. I put the kong swivel back on the (Mantus) anchor shank and the twist went away. My experience made me wonder if the kong swivel is only effective if one half is held rigid by the shank. It also made me consider switching to a Mantus swivel to avoid side loading the kong.
Did someone say that that anchors and anchoring are a black art?

Greg Shea
Sharki 133 Cap des iles
Preveza

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 3:48 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Twisted chain - Amel 54
 
Hi

In 5 years I never had twisted chain issues, with 80m galvanised chain, anchoring about 120 times a year in the past 3 years.

Amel supplied, shall we say, inferior anchors to what was available in the industry.  Could be they also supplied inferior swivels.  I guess they reason owners would upgrade to modern (spade, rocna, ultra) anchors and swivels.  I personally installed a spade anchor, with a bow shackle to 3 links of chain, then a kong swivel, then my 80m chain.  (The 3 links of chain avoid the swivel ever having a lateral load which would exceed its capabilities.)  

Regarding the stainless steel jumping on the gypsy, maybe it is because stainless steel stretches and some links don’t fit so well on the gypsy any more.  

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
Currently in Denia, Spain.

Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

Ian Park
 

Eamonn,
Be sure to carry spare Allen bolts for the Kong.
Last year when changing my chain end for end I began to unscrew the Allen Key bolt that holds the Kong together. The head of the Allen bolt just came away leaving the threaded section in place, and the rest of the Kong came apart in its regular pieces.
There was nothing wrong with the s/s on the Kong, but internally the head of the bolt had gone black (like carbon) and was rotten. No evidence of deterioration on the outside.
I don’t use a swivel any more. No problems with twisted chain! But I always swap ends every year.

Ian

Ocean Hobo, SN96
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Would you mind measuring the wall thickness of this gaskefw

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 11:39 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

 

Hi Eric.  They are 25mm across the base and12mm high.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

 

On Oct 9, 2019, at 5:10 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

 



Hi Kent,

Thanks for the photos.

What are the dimensions of the seals?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 4:43 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow locker seals

 

Hi Steve,

I paid 8.70€/M plus shipping. I’m not sure she has enough to do another boat.  She couldn’t tell me anything about it when I was placing my order.  Said she had Some of several different profiles that had been used over the years, and sent me the one she did based on my description and pic of my original.  It sounded like that may be the last of what she has.  It is a stock design that should be available considerable cheaper where ever you are (Hawaii?)

 

Malama mai ka’i nui loa lawe, ko’u ho’aloha.

 

A hui hou.

Kent

Kristy

SM 243




On Oct 9, 2019, at 3:45 PM, Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:



Hi Kent,

 

What is Amel charging per meter for the material?

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Aloha SM 72

Hawaii


On Oct 9, 2019, at 09:39, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

I got the seals from Maud at Amel France.  They are half-round with a stiff bottom and what I think is neoprene rounded top.  The top is very soft and appears to be exactly the same as the originals.  The attached pics show the old (on the left) and new seals, the adhesive strips, and how Amel cut a small “V” at the site where the hinge bolt/washer/nut come close to the seal.  It is difficult to make the corners exact, I chose to add silicone caulk inside the corners and at the sites where the wedge was cut out to make room for the bolt.

Hardest part is reinstalling as it requires working on both sides of the hatch to tighten the hinge bolts.  Made easier by replacing the slot head bolts with Phillips heads.  Would be much easier with two people.


I will report again in a month or two to let you know how well it worked.

<351FA7CE-99C3-4082-956D-3396F2DE8A66.jpeg><A646EDF3-48E5-4C56-980C-CC4BA3A297FB.jpeg><70851A93-5550-45FD-A38A-6AC4660B65A1.jpeg>
Re: SM deck maintenance-Polytrol_ORIGINAL RAL COLOR for thin strips

Arnold Mente
 

Hi, I am Arnold, 

My stripes of my faux teak also need a renovation. Is there someone who know the RAL for this?
Thank you

Arnold 
SY Zephyr
SM203



Am 11.10.2019 um 01:52 schrieb Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...>:

John- on L'ORIENT polytrol looks great for 6-8 months, looks OK for another 3...then you need to reapply it. Others might have a different experience. The key for me is that it seems to protect my black lines. Painting the lines again would add 2 days to a 3 hour job.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422



--
SY Zephyr SM203
Re: SM deck maintenance-Polytrol_ORIGINAL RAL COLOR for thin strips

Thomas Kleman
 

John- on L'ORIENT polytrol looks great for 6-8 months, looks OK for another 3...then you need to reapply it. Others might have a different experience. The key for me is that it seems to protect my black lines. Painting the lines again would add 2 days to a 3 hour job.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

CW Bill Rouse
 

John,

You reminded me of an experience I had. I bought new galvanized chain from a marine shop in Europe. When it was delivered, it was obvious to me that it was old chain that had been regalvanized. I refused it and also refused the replacement shipment for the same reason. I discussed it with the shop owner. I believe that he truly didn't know that the chain distributor was cheating him, but he admitted that the price was too good to be true.

I finally received 100 meters of new galvanized chain. 

Ask yourself if you are sure that you could tell the difference between new and newly regalvanized chain. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, Oct 10, 2019, 6:08 PM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Teun,
  I got lucky with my SM as she had brand new galvanized chain.  Previous owner bought the chain in Martinique.  Since then and innumerable anchorings  I have taken to casual shopping for new chain.  I have noted a wide variation in the coarseness of the galvanization.  The chain on Annie is not very rough on the surface and we have not had any issues with it passing through the windlass or twisting.  

Granted most of our anchoring has been in relatively shallow water compared to the Pacific however we spent several months exploring tidal rivers in the US where the current changes direction every few hours...swinging the boat 180 degrees...in random rotations. Never had an issue.  

I think you are right that is chain is slippery with itself so it can untangle more easily.   Annie's smooth galvanized chain probably has some of those properties.  Coarse chain might behave differently.  

On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 11:04 PM Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Good Afternoon,

 

After discussing with another AMEL owner before leaving NEW CALEDONIA early May 2019 for VANUATU I decided to inspect & possibly reverse my OEM SS chain. I also expected it to be a simple straightforward exercise but found ON CLOSE examination several links to be “pitted”. When aggressively probing the pit it was fairly easy to create a bigger hole. All the pitting/holes were in the welded part of the link NOT in the actual SS link. I was told that rewelding was the solution but I wasn’t comfortable that the welder would indeed cover every compromised weld so decided to buy a new chain. No SS chain available on the island so I purchased 100 meter galvanized chain. Since I have that galvanized chain I frequently have problems with the chain being twisted/bungled; jumping the sprocket on the windless (it is the right size link) as well as bungling up in the haws pipe. I do have the original OEM SS swivel & anchor but still frequent twisting creating problems when outlaying the chain; having to empty the sail locker, open the chain locker and then manually making sure the chain will feed thru the haws pipe. Very doable on a calm early afternoon arrival; extremely annoying when arriving @ night in bad weather.

 

I have the feeling that the SS chain is more slippery and therefore distributes better horizontally in the anchor locker when I weigh anchor than the galvanized chain which is piling up higher.

 

Since May I have now 3 times deployed the complete chain to give it a chance to “unwind” and then slowly bring it back in while pushing the first 30 meters all the way toward the back of the chain locker to make sure that the remaining 70 meters is not piling too high. It helps but still issues. I never had any twisting/bungling issues during the previous 1 ½ year with the SS chain.

 

I am now planning, when doing my 2 year maintenance in February 2020 in BRISBANE or maybe NEW ZEALAND, to go back to a SS chain.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

PORT VILA  VANUATU

October 10, 2019 13:59:43

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Crisp via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 02:18
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Twisted chain - Amel 54

 

Since buying Wilna Grace in July I've been progressively working my way through her, one job being to take out the lovely stainless steel chain and inspect it. What I thought would be a quick job turned into a marathon.  I'd hauled out ~3 deck lengths when I discovered the rest of the chain remaining in the locker was twisted into a massive ball.  Sometime later I'd finally worked the chain onto the deck and had ~1.5 deck lengths of twisted chain.  I'm unclear why this twist should have built up or over what period of time.  Wilna Grace is 12 years old and I have reason to suspect the chain may not have been fully out for some time.

Never had this problem with my Super Maramu. Anyway from now on each year I shall make a point of finding some deep water and letting all the chain out!  Has anyone else experienced this twist problem?
Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

Gregory Shea
 

FWIW I never had a chain twist problem until I tried the arrangement described by Eamonn. With 10mm galvanised chain, three chain links followed by the kong swivel I immediately had twist problems and the chain wanted to jump off the gypsy. I put the kong swivel back on the (Mantus) anchor shank and the twist went away. My experience made me wonder if the kong swivel is only effective if one half is held rigid by the shank. It also made me consider switching to a Mantus swivel to avoid side loading the kong.
Did someone say that that anchors and anchoring are a black art?

Greg Shea
Sharki 133 Cap des iles
Preveza

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 3:48 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Twisted chain - Amel 54
 
Hi

In 5 years I never had twisted chain issues, with 80m galvanised chain, anchoring about 120 times a year in the past 3 years.

Amel supplied, shall we say, inferior anchors to what was available in the industry.  Could be they also supplied inferior swivels.  I guess they reason owners would upgrade to modern (spade, rocna, ultra) anchors and swivels.  I personally installed a spade anchor, with a bow shackle to 3 links of chain, then a kong swivel, then my 80m chain.  (The 3 links of chain avoid the swivel ever having a lateral load which would exceed its capabilities.)  

Regarding the stainless steel jumping on the gypsy, maybe it is because stainless steel stretches and some links don’t fit so well on the gypsy any more.  

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
Currently in Denia, Spain.

Re: Twisted chain - Amel 54

John Clark
 

Teun,
  I got lucky with my SM as she had brand new galvanized chain.  Previous owner bought the chain in Martinique.  Since then and innumerable anchorings  I have taken to casual shopping for new chain.  I have noted a wide variation in the coarseness of the galvanization.  The chain on Annie is not very rough on the surface and we have not had any issues with it passing through the windlass or twisting.  

Granted most of our anchoring has been in relatively shallow water compared to the Pacific however we spent several months exploring tidal rivers in the US where the current changes direction every few hours...swinging the boat 180 degrees...in random rotations. Never had an issue.  

I think you are right that is chain is slippery with itself so it can untangle more easily.   Annie's smooth galvanized chain probably has some of those properties.  Coarse chain might behave differently.  

On Wed, Oct 9, 2019, 11:04 PM Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Good Afternoon,

 

After discussing with another AMEL owner before leaving NEW CALEDONIA early May 2019 for VANUATU I decided to inspect & possibly reverse my OEM SS chain. I also expected it to be a simple straightforward exercise but found ON CLOSE examination several links to be “pitted”. When aggressively probing the pit it was fairly easy to create a bigger hole. All the pitting/holes were in the welded part of the link NOT in the actual SS link. I was told that rewelding was the solution but I wasn’t comfortable that the welder would indeed cover every compromised weld so decided to buy a new chain. No SS chain available on the island so I purchased 100 meter galvanized chain. Since I have that galvanized chain I frequently have problems with the chain being twisted/bungled; jumping the sprocket on the windless (it is the right size link) as well as bungling up in the haws pipe. I do have the original OEM SS swivel & anchor but still frequent twisting creating problems when outlaying the chain; having to empty the sail locker, open the chain locker and then manually making sure the chain will feed thru the haws pipe. Very doable on a calm early afternoon arrival; extremely annoying when arriving @ night in bad weather.

 

I have the feeling that the SS chain is more slippery and therefore distributes better horizontally in the anchor locker when I weigh anchor than the galvanized chain which is piling up higher.

 

Since May I have now 3 times deployed the complete chain to give it a chance to “unwind” and then slowly bring it back in while pushing the first 30 meters all the way toward the back of the chain locker to make sure that the remaining 70 meters is not piling too high. It helps but still issues. I never had any twisting/bungling issues during the previous 1 ½ year with the SS chain.

 

I am now planning, when doing my 2 year maintenance in February 2020 in BRISBANE or maybe NEW ZEALAND, to go back to a SS chain.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

PORT VILA  VANUATU

October 10, 2019 13:59:43

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Crisp via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2019 02:18
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Twisted chain - Amel 54

 

Since buying Wilna Grace in July I've been progressively working my way through her, one job being to take out the lovely stainless steel chain and inspect it. What I thought would be a quick job turned into a marathon.  I'd hauled out ~3 deck lengths when I discovered the rest of the chain remaining in the locker was twisted into a massive ball.  Sometime later I'd finally worked the chain onto the deck and had ~1.5 deck lengths of twisted chain.  I'm unclear why this twist should have built up or over what period of time.  Wilna Grace is 12 years old and I have reason to suspect the chain may not have been fully out for some time.

Never had this problem with my Super Maramu. Anyway from now on each year I shall make a point of finding some deep water and letting all the chain out!  Has anyone else experienced this twist problem?
Re: SM deck maintenance-Polytrol_ORIGINAL RAL COLOR for thin strips

John Clark
 

Hi Giovanni,

In 2017 I addressed the deck on Annie SM37.  The surface structure was sound but the colors had faded badly.  Made the boat look rather shabby.  

I used a cream colored Interlux paint(check forum for pictures of the container) for the former dark brown thin strips.  Bugel tool to apply the paint.  Surface preparation is important.  I cleaned the area to be painted with acetone followed by light sanding(following advice from L'Orient).  

For the tan or light brown part I was OK with the faded lighter shade, however there were some places were the brown was worn to the base white.  I touched these areas up by mixing small quantities of the cream paint with black brown and yellow color tint to match the local color.  I looked like a mad artist painting the deck.  But it worked just fine.

After two years I have had no problems with the painted areas.  No flaking, fading, color changes or other problems.  

Patrick, "Le Mayor du Ponton 4" in Marin has used Polytrol on his deck and recommended it highly. I watched him apply it and it renewed the appearance of his SM decks instantly.  

I would be interested in hearing reccomndations regarding the longevity of this product.  

John
SV Annie. SM 37
Brunswick GA



On Thu, Oct 10, 2019, 5:00 AM Giovanni TESTA <giovannitesta53@...> wrote:
Hi to all,
before Polytrol I need to re paint the dark brown thin stripes, do you know the original RAL ?
Many thanks
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM2K n428
SM Leuca
ITALY

Il 10/10/2019 00:24, eric freedman ha scritto:

Thanks

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2019 5:18 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM deck maintenance-Polytrol

 

Eric- 2 cans does 3 coats. 


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