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Re: Companion way for removal
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Dieter,
We apply beeswax to the companionway door generously every time we lay the boat up. We also have a winter cover which stops sunlight falling directly on it. After 19 years the laminate still holds but it won't last forever.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Laying up in Kilada, Greece
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io <inusbusch@...>
Sent: 16 October 2019 07:40 To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal Thanks Eric,
I was thinking of maybe someone invented a wax with particles in it to protect a surface from being destroyed by UV. Could be a big market. The mention of automobile supply is very helpful.
Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Main mast seal/pad replacement
#replacement
#solution
Hi Barry Thanks for sharing your experience, great Job done! But I can not see the photos. There is no photos attached or on the photo section.? Maybe the upload did'nt work or some problems on the Group.io ?? Best regards, Ruedi "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55 Marina di Ragusa Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Barry Connor via Groups.Io" <connor_barry@...> Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Datum: Samstag, 12. Oktober 2019 um 11:26 An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Main mast seal/pad replacement #Mastpad #replacement #solution Hi, Barry from Amel 54 #17 As already discussed in these topics like Amel 54 main mast seal, Mast foot rubber seal pad or Mast foot rubber seal pad I replaced my main mast pad in Hyeres. Amel Hyeres could not do the work due to schedule and recommended https://goo.gl/maps/xfvc617B1V2vpsUw5, contacts Adeline and Didier. At first they quoted for and wanted to remove the complete mast and then replace the seal/pad and put the mainmast back in place. That would mean disconnecting all electrical and data cables from the mast. I had checked and saw that all electrical and other cables going up the mast had slack enough for raising the mast a few inches, more than 50mm slack. Having read that the pad could be replaced by just raising the mast couple inches (40mm) I convinced them to do this instead of taking the whole mast down. Firstly all the rigging was marked and then loosened. The crane operator then began to raise the mast mm by mm. When the mast was high enough to get the small screwdrivers and picks under we removed all the bits from the old pad. Then we used scouring pads to smooth the bottom of the mast and deck. As we had to cut the pad to get it around the 2 collars going into the deck from the mast bottom that the wiring goes through we had to permanently seal the pad where we made the cuts with 3M 5200. The mast was then lowered and the stays were tightened to the marked positions. The lifting, putting the new pad under the mast and lowering took no more than 1 hour, the preparation took a few hours and the re-tightening took also a few hours. The crane operator was a pro and had a very precise lifting crane, wind was blowing about 15 to 20 knots from the dock side, we kept an eye on the dockside main stay tension which we did not completely loosen during the lift. The mast was lifted with strap attached mid height and secured at the bottom, completely vertical lift.
I have attached some photos of the work and what my old pad looked like when it came out from under the mast. Sonja of Amel Hyeres also suppled me a new upgraded deck stem attachment for my main furler, the original attachment by Amel in 2006 was only 6mm and the new stainless steel attachment was now 10mm. This was replaced by Didier and Steve. Thanks to Mohammad of B & B Kokomo who had upgraded his furlers, he sent me his old staysail furler which showed very little use, this is installed now as my main furler with mine now stowed as a spare. Amel Hyeres were able to supply me with 2 spare belts for these furlers. Labour cost for all this €2,000. I would recommend that you mark the rigging screw with some paint rather than electrical tape before starting to loosen the rigging.            
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Re: Access behind the Eno Stove Oven
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Soraya, Here are the instruction for the SM2K, may be the same idea for the 54. Removal http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_removal.html cleaning http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_cleaning.html putting back http://www.nikimat.com/stove_oven_repose.html Alexandre
On Tuesday, October 15, 2019, 9:47:43 PM CDT, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote: Hello, I am considering dismounting the Eno Stove Oven as it seems the only way to properly access and clean the area behind it. Does it sound like an overkill? any workarounds? How easy is it to remove and put back? Any recommendations or tips when dismounting the stove/oven? Thanks Best, Soraya GARULFO A54 #122 Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
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Re: Companion way for removal
INUS - BUSCH
Thanks Eric,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I was thinking of maybe someone invented a wax with particles in it to protect a surface from being destroyed by UV. Could be a big market. The mention of automobile supply is very helpful. Dieter Fal-lera Sharki #135 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Companion way for removal
eric freedman
Dear Dieter, I just use a UV preventive hard wax. I get it at an automotive supply. I believe a number of members use Polytrol on the decks. After reading Joel Potters comments, I thought I should also use it. However when I went to their website they have 2 Polytrol s listed . One regular and one Marine. I called them today and asked what was the difference. They said it is the same stuff with different labels. I guess so the chandleries can get more for it. It also costs the same. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376’
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of INUS - BUSCH via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:32 AM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal
Hi Eric, you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching? Dieter Fal-lera Sharki #135
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Amel Board messages--Just a recollection.
eric freedman
When I first received Kimberlite in 2003 there were if I remember correctly, about a total of about 150 messages a month on this board . The number of communication now is impressive. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: Companion way for removal
scentstone
Precise, extensive and poetic description of an intimidating operation ;-)
Thanks a lot Craig ! F.
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Access behind the Eno Stove Oven
Sv Garulfo
Hello, I am considering dismounting the Eno Stove Oven as it seems the only way to properly access and clean the area behind it. Does it sound like an overkill? any workarounds? How easy is it to remove and put back? Any recommendations or tips when dismounting the stove/oven? Thanks Best, Soraya GARULFO A54 #122 Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
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Re: Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hi Karen, We have a spare.. but we’re in Fiji... Kind regards, Jean-Pierre Germain,SY Eleuthera, Fiji.
On 16 Oct 2019, at 13:27, Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie@...> wrote:
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Re: Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow
Karen,
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Onan MDKD 6.5kW genset exhaust elbow
Karen Smith
Does anyone have an exhaust elbow for an Onan 6.5kW MDKD generator exhaust elbow? Onan considers it an "obsolete part" and the price they want for it is mind-numbing... This is for the older, smaller 6.5kW generator installed on the older SM.
We would even be interested in an old one that leaks or is otherwise not serviceable since we have identified a supplier who can craft a new one for a reasonable price from from any elbow that is complete enough for them to get dimensions from. Right now ours works, but is patched with JB Weld, and we can't afford to send it off and be without a generator for the 6 to 12 weeks it takes for a new one to be crafted. If you have a new one in your spare parts bin, we'll buy it from you and replace it with a nice pretty new stainless one as soon as we can get it made! Karen Smith Harmonie, SM160 Annapolis, MD.
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Re: Companion way for removal
Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way". What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.
First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force. Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish) in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel. I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all. Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds. If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time. That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it! Cheers, Craig
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Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54
There shouldn't be a foam luff on the mail, as Danny says, it wouldn't fit inside the mast, there's barel;y enough room for the plain sail when it's wound into the mast. The shape issue with the main is not nearly as bad as the genoa issue as the main is wound around a vertical rod in the mast. The genoa suffers because it's on a stay which sags more and more as the wind gets up and on an SM there is no backstay tension adjustment which would help.
Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54 and SM
Generally you don;t have a foam luff in a gennaker. These sails are designed to be used reaching and downwind in light conditions.
The foam luff is only required in a headsail that you intend to partially furl when sailing up wind in strong conditions. The foam insert helps to maintain sail shape when partially furled but it's still not the best, the sail is still far too full in the middle. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54 and SM
Joerg Esdorn
My incidences Genoa does not have a foam luff. It’s not a thing of beauty when furled but it’s good enough even for upwind work. You can’t point as well in increased seas anyways, even in a 55. The Leads are too far back also if you furl more than 3 marks. So If it’s blowing 25+, I use the staysail upwind. I have reefed that as well in more than 35 kn upwind. It looks fine. If I did not have a staysail, I would experiment with a foam luff. If it’s no longer working you can always replace it.
Joerg Esdorn A55 Kincsem #53
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Re: SM Bow thruster wiring diagram?
Eamonn Washington
Amel contacted me, they now can supply the full up down mechanism for the bow thruster including motor and wiring, with the 20cm jack screw installed. It is 1258 euros plus 20% VAT.
Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 Currently in Cartagena, Spain.
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Re: A54 genoa furler tube grease
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Thomas, if amel used thecsame system as the sm the wire on the forestay is slathered with grease before it is inserted into the foil. This is to lubricate the wire/foil conection as the sail is rolled and unrolled. They used a high viscosity grease but in warmer areas it becomes a bit fluid and leaks out the bottom. Bit messy but not a big issue. Eventually it will need replenishing indicated by a scraping noise when you are furling. If you ever have the forestay off for any reason take the oportunity to grease the stay then. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 16 October 2019 at 08:20 Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
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Re: A54 - bow roller hooks
Stefan Schaufert
Hi Thomas,
I use this hooks for placing/locking the anchor „rope“ - to relieve the windlass. The first loop is on the big towing cleat, the other end (with a thimble + shackle) on the chain - going over the rubber wheel. If you do not use one of the hooks, the rope will shave on the genua foot - not for long ;-). I do not know if this is the „Henry Amel“ purpose of this hooks, but for me it makes sense and works well. Best regards Stefan A54-119 Lady Charlyette - still in Porto Santo (I will give you a feedback for your mural painting at the end of the week.)
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Re: SM2K: Replacing a CLIMMA 9EH AC unit in the Salon
#replacement
I had the forward unit give me fits with tripping the main breaker and it turned out (eventually) to be bad corrosion on the lower connection on the heater coil.
Once I clipped and sealed the heater wires the air conditioner worked fine with no further issue. So, we've been fine without a heater and the.ac is not tripping anything now. I'm definitely looking to replace the units next year so I'll gladly follow along with what you decide. Gary W. SM 209, Adagio Maryland.
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Re: New Genoa sail for Amel 54
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Barry, Yes, the genoa should have a foam luff. As i said before sailmakers seem to resist puttig them in but you cannot have good sail shape partially furled without. The same applies to any luff furling sail, it is to do with the greater fullness in the middle of the sail as it furls the foam luff takes it up. However i am surprised you have it on the main. I would have thought there would not be room in the mast to allow this. I have just accepted the poorer main shape partially furled. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 16 October 2019 at 04:00 "Barry Connor via Groups.Io" <connor_barry@...> wrote:
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