Date   
Re: prop suddenly turning

Gerhard Mueller
 

I don't know which gearbox your Amel has. But my Sharki has the Hurth HBW20 gearbox and the placard says, quite strongly, to NEVER have the shift in forward when sailing and the engine is stopped!
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

prop suddenly turning

Miles
 


Dear Amelians,
I am heading for Bermuda and then Marinique..  I just noticed that the propeller shaft was turning when I was sailing and the throttle handle was flat forward as Amel said to dol.  I have no shaft break and an AutoProp propeller.  My boat is SM 216.  I have owned it from new.  There is a placard attached to the boat in front of the shift lever.  The placard says, quite strongly, to always have the shift  in forward when sailing and I have always done this.  Just now, I noticed that the shaft was rotating slowly with the gear in forward and the boat going about 5 knots. It was slow and I could stop it with my foot.  Does this mean that the clutches in the transmission were slipping and wearing?   I don't understand how the shaft can turn when it is in gear and the engine is stopped.
I tried putting it in reverse and the shaft stopped.  Doing this means passing through neutral to start the motor.  In neutral, the prop spins fast in reverse and putting the transmission in forward causes a big jerk on the transmission clutches. 
I don't know what to do and I would be grateful for advice.
 Regards,
MIles,
S/Y Ladybug, sm216  350 miles NW of Bermuda.

Infos about Break in the Main Mast Furler

Alexander Hofmann
 

Hi Amel 54 friends,
my main mast furler did block due to corrosion inside, after 8 years of operation. The rubber sealing ring above was broken, and there has been no drain hole in the lower part. Funny. Both Topics are resolved with a new furler (NOT lowcost) from AMEL. I try to repair the old one to have a spare furler onboard.
The break inside the furler in the lower section is strongly corroded and needs repair or replacement. 
I am sure that I am not the first and not the last who has had or will have this problem. 
My question: Does anybody has information and experience about the mechanical parts, the electrical connection, or even where the mechanical parts of this break could be found for purchase?
Thanks for your help!!!
Alexander
SY Oceanica I. Amel 54#156 from 2010

Re: Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Bill,

I would like to buy one for our VP D3-110i-C. Do you know if they also make one for the Onan 11kW genset? I think that one is (even) more subject to corrosion.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

 

Jeffery,

Great!

HDI will use it to make a mold, then make an investment cast stainless steel elbow for the D3. For those of you that don't know what we are discussing, many marine engines including Yanmar and Volvo have either a cast iron or welded stainless steel exhaust elbow. These almost always fail, and seem to fail at an inconvenient time. I had my Yanmar welded stainless steel elbow fail in Thailand. The Yanmar OEM part cost me Yanmar list price of $500 plus $500 duty. HDI sells an investment cast stainless steel elbow for less than $300.

HDI is a Preferred Vendor of Amel Yacht Owners School. Many Amel owners have added HDI exhaust elbows to their engines. I did. As far as I know, everyone is satisfied and all are very happy with the product and price. I assume that HDI will have the D3-110 part available in 4-6 weeks. The contact information I have is:
HDI Marine Ltd
www.hdimarine.net
Hailey Wilkerson, Director of Marketing

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 1:21 PM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
I got it. I replied mine. I'll bring it back with me and send it to you monday



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/26/19 2:12 PM (GMT-04:00)
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

Yes

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Oct 26, 2019, 12:29 PM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
Bill, are you looking for the exhaust elbow coming off the turbo?



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/24/19 1:33 PM (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

If one of you has a Volvo D3-110 exhaust elbow, I could use it. 

As you probably know HDI Marine the manufacturer of Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbows is a Preferred Vendor of Yacht School

I just received an email from HDI asking if I could locate a D3-110 elbow for them to use to make a mold which will allow them to produce a Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbow for the D3-110. If you have an old one in any condition, it will work.

Let me know.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello All,

Like Danny, I will be in Opua.  Good trades and far better cruising grounds in the Bay of Islands.  Whangerei requires at least 2 hours just to leave the river.

Cheers

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera SM 007, Fiji




On 27 Oct 2019, at 08:15, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:



Hi Scott. You will get the best rates for haul outs and hard stand in Whangarei. There is competition there. Good trades too. But I do almost all mine in Opua as it is only a day sail south of me, Whangarei is twice that and a two hour drive from home.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Regards

Danny

On 27 October 2019 at 03:39 islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Scott

Good to hear from you. I hope all is well and that you guys will have another safe sail down to the Caribbean soon.

The Pacific and the Indian Oceans were certainly the highlights of our circumnavigation, with the Pacific being the most beautiful with nice variety, and the certainly totally safe which was a pleasant change for us after some of our experiences. You and Mia will absolutely love it!

Unfortunately, although I have sailed there a few years ago in 2016, I am no expert in terms of New Zealand so I should not try to advise you, however both Danny and Alan on this forum would have excellent advice I am sure are their boats have been there for many years.

Please look us up when you come to Australia. It was a pleasure to meet you both at the Amel Rally this year and I would gladly help if there is anything you need advice on here in Australia.

Best regards
Colin
SV Island Pearl II SM#332
Bundaberg Port Marina
(Now for sale in Australia, with all Australian Import Duty and taxes paid, so the new owner would be allowed to keep it here during the Pacific Cyclone seasons.   Australia is the perfect base from which to easily explore the very best cruising grounds in the world, ie the South Pacific, with a safe easy crossing back and forth to New Caledonia and Fiji each year with the Downunder Rally as you build your sailing confidence before sailing Asia and the Indian Ocean.  Contact me if interested on svislandpearl@... )

On Sun, Oct 27, 2019 at 12:25 AM Scott SV Tengah < Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Congrats Colin! You guys did make it a good ways since we met at the Amel rally in Martinique! We're just in DC. :)

That said, we'll be heading your way and likely arrive in your part of the world by November 2020. Most likely spend typhoon season in NZ and then back to the South Pacific for a second season in 2021 as we have heard nothing but positive things about it.

Any idea about reasonably priced dry dock in NZ? We will likely get off the boat for a bit and buy a car to travel around.

Mie and I have both spent time in Australia, so we're hoping to explore NZ this time, but you never know, we may make it over to your island, too!
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Re: seals orientation

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi. In 11 years and 50,000 miles of using Amel supplied seals I have never had a failure, and the springs have never been rusty on removal.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 27 October 2019 at 08:02 "Arnold Mente via Groups.Io" <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:

Hi Craig,

 have received the seals loosely in the envelope.
1.4301 / V2A / 304 is not seawater resistant. Only 1.4571 / V4A / 316 with 2% molybdenum (is pure austenitic) is seawater resistant and non-magnetic! For example, this is why surveyors use a magnet to test the stainless steel components of a yacht.
Otherwise my education would have been wrong.
I would like to see it differently, but with an austenitic steel one finds no magnetism through the transformation of the structure from ferritic to austenitic. In cheap stainless steel parts for yachts produced in the Far East, it often happens that these are made of 304. I have no intention of questioning the delivery of Amel. But why is the spring magnetic? Shaft seals with 316 springs are also difficult to obtain, as my research has shown so far. With 304 on the oil side, I have no problems but the seawater side worries me.

Best, Arnold

Am 26.10.2019 um 19:18 schrieb Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io < sangaris@...>:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Arnold,
I assume when you say the springs of the Amel supplied lip seals were magnetic you (or your mechanic) concluded they were not Stainless Steel and therefore you replaced them with O-rings. Actually, Stainless Steel is slightly magnetic and the very thin and lightweight Stainless Steel springs in lip seals will "stick" to a magnet - therefore the "test" your mechanic performed was not definitive.

You must rely on the manufacturers specification - there is a Code letter that specifies Stainless Steel Garter Springs. Carbon Steel is usually the default, so you must specifically order stainless steel garter spring. I am sure Amel supplied the correct lip seal and that it did, indeed, have a stainless steel spring. If I recall correctly, Amel ships the lip seals in the manufacturer's box - if so you could check the part number on the box, if you still have it, and see that it indeed is a Stainless Steel Garter Spring.

Cheers, Craig

Arnold Mente

Urbaniweg 12
7000 Eisenstadt 

Tel: +43 660 6699019

arnold.mente@...




 


--
SY Zephyr SM203


 

Re: tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Scott. You will get the best rates for haul outs and hard stand in Whangarei. There is competition there. Good trades too. But I do almost all mine in Opua as it is only a day sail south of me, Whangarei is twice that and a two hour drive from home.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Regards

Danny

On 27 October 2019 at 03:39 islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Scott

Good to hear from you. I hope all is well and that you guys will have another safe sail down to the Caribbean soon.

The Pacific and the Indian Oceans were certainly the highlights of our circumnavigation, with the Pacific being the most beautiful with nice variety, and the certainly totally safe which was a pleasant change for us after some of our experiences. You and Mia will absolutely love it!

Unfortunately, although I have sailed there a few years ago in 2016, I am no expert in terms of New Zealand so I should not try to advise you, however both Danny and Alan on this forum would have excellent advice I am sure are their boats have been there for many years.

Please look us up when you come to Australia. It was a pleasure to meet you both at the Amel Rally this year and I would gladly help if there is anything you need advice on here in Australia.

Best regards
Colin
SV Island Pearl II SM#332
Bundaberg Port Marina
(Now for sale in Australia, with all Australian Import Duty and taxes paid, so the new owner would be allowed to keep it here during the Pacific Cyclone seasons.   Australia is the perfect base from which to easily explore the very best cruising grounds in the world, ie the South Pacific, with a safe easy crossing back and forth to New Caledonia and Fiji each year with the Downunder Rally as you build your sailing confidence before sailing Asia and the Indian Ocean.  Contact me if interested on svislandpearl@... )

On Sun, Oct 27, 2019 at 12:25 AM Scott SV Tengah < Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Congrats Colin! You guys did make it a good ways since we met at the Amel rally in Martinique! We're just in DC. :)

That said, we'll be heading your way and likely arrive in your part of the world by November 2020. Most likely spend typhoon season in NZ and then back to the South Pacific for a second season in 2021 as we have heard nothing but positive things about it.

Any idea about reasonably priced dry dock in NZ? We will likely get off the boat for a bit and buy a car to travel around.

Mie and I have both spent time in Australia, so we're hoping to explore NZ this time, but you never know, we may make it over to your island, too!
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Re: seals orientation

Arnold Mente
 

Hi Craig,

 have received the seals loosely in the envelope.
1.4301 / V2A / 304 is not seawater resistant. Only 1.4571 / V4A / 316 with 2% molybdenum (is pure austenitic) is seawater resistant and non-magnetic! For example, this is why surveyors use a magnet to test the stainless steel components of a yacht.
Otherwise my education would have been wrong.
I would like to see it differently, but with an austenitic steel one finds no magnetism through the transformation of the structure from ferritic to austenitic. In cheap stainless steel parts for yachts produced in the Far East, it often happens that these are made of 304. I have no intention of questioning the delivery of Amel. But why is the spring magnetic? Shaft seals with 316 springs are also difficult to obtain, as my research has shown so far. With 304 on the oil side, I have no problems but the seawater side worries me.

Best, Arnold

Am 26.10.2019 um 19:18 schrieb Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...>:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Arnold,
I assume when you say the springs of the Amel supplied lip seals were magnetic you (or your mechanic) concluded they were not Stainless Steel and therefore you replaced them with O-rings. Actually, Stainless Steel is slightly magnetic and the very thin and lightweight Stainless Steel springs in lip seals will "stick" to a magnet - therefore the "test" your mechanic performed was not definitive.

You must rely on the manufacturers specification - there is a Code letter that specifies Stainless Steel Garter Springs. Carbon Steel is usually the default, so you must specifically order stainless steel garter spring. I am sure Amel supplied the correct lip seal and that it did, indeed, have a stainless steel spring. If I recall correctly, Amel ships the lip seals in the manufacturer's box - if so you could check the part number on the box, if you still have it, and see that it indeed is a Stainless Steel Garter Spring.

Cheers, Craig

Arnold Mente

Urbaniweg 12
7000 Eisenstadt 

Tel: +43 660 6699019

arnold.mente@...




--
SY Zephyr SM203

Re: Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

I got it. I replied mine. I'll bring it back with me and send it to you monday



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/26/19 2:12 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

Yes

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Oct 26, 2019, 12:29 PM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
Bill, are you looking for the exhaust elbow coming off the turbo?



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/24/19 1:33 PM (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

If one of you has a Volvo D3-110 exhaust elbow, I could use it. 

As you probably know HDI Marine the manufacturer of Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbows is a Preferred Vendor of Yacht School

I just received an email from HDI asking if I could locate a D3-110 elbow for them to use to make a mold which will allow them to produce a Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbow for the D3-110. If you have an old one in any condition, it will work.

Let me know.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

 

Yes

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Oct 26, 2019, 12:29 PM JEFFREY KRAUS <jmkraus@...> wrote:
Bill, are you looking for the exhaust elbow coming off the turbo?



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/24/19 1:33 PM (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

If one of you has a Volvo D3-110 exhaust elbow, I could use it. 

As you probably know HDI Marine the manufacturer of Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbows is a Preferred Vendor of Yacht School

I just received an email from HDI asking if I could locate a D3-110 elbow for them to use to make a mold which will allow them to produce a Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbow for the D3-110. If you have an old one in any condition, it will work.

Let me know.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

eric freedman
 

 

 

Coming across the Atlantic we had the same problem. I decided it was a problem with something blocking the tank. I took off the

Hose leading to the tank and put it into the bell of the ships horn. When I heard bubbling I stopped.

When I got to the USA, I drained the tank. Behind the fuel valve Amel mounted a screen. On Kimberlite you need a very thin wrench to remove the valve, it used to be called a tappet wrench.

My tank inspection ports were sealed with blue silicone.

Pieces of the blue silicone were blocking fuel flow,  I flushed the tank and ran it through a filter to get out the blue stuff. Permatex recommends Moto Seal for replacing the tank gaskets. It is used on motorcycle gear boxes and is meant to be easily disassembled to change the gears om Motos for different tracks.

 

This is very unique and if all else fails possibly this is the problem, however I think it is something much simpler.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Garver via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 2:48 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

 

The mechanic at the marina asked the same question about the auto-shutdown feature, so he's investigating that. I am about to pump some fuel from the bottom of the tank to check for water. I will also check for a vacuum on the fuel line, that's a good idea. 

 

Thanks!

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105


On October 24, 2019 at 12:58 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:

My first thought is also fuel supply.  One time we started our engine with the fuel shut off valve closed...she ran perfect then just quit.  I can see the engine pulling a vacuum on the fuel line stalling ...then as the vacuum leaks off being able to restart.  

 

Now my second thought is based on you saying it was a new engine.   Does the engine have any automatic shutdown features like the genset?  Recall the genset has a host of conditions that will cause the machine to shutdown.  Just owndering if the new engine presumably with a computer is doing something on it's own.

 

John

SV Annie SM37

Brunswick GA

 

On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 11:58 AM Mark Garver via Groups.Io <mgarver=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Mark,

 

Unfortunately not. But I think I can put a hose in the bottom of the tank and pump some out to see. At least that is the current plan as well as ensuring the filter is clean.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105


On October 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Mark,

 

You have a fuel problem. Do you have a filtration system that allows you to check for water?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

http://www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Garver via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 8:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

 

It's been several months since my wife and I left our boat up in the Chesapeake and upon arrival today to have it hauled for a long over due cleaning. The Yanmar diesel fired right up, but then after a couple of minutes dies. Wait a couple of minutes and it fires right up again, runs for a couple of minutes and shuts off. It runs smoothly and fires up instantly so it doesn't sound like she's starving for fuel or air. The engine only has 30 hours and has be very reliable.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FW: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

eric freedman
 

Coming across the Atlantic we had the same problem. I decided it was a problem with something blocking the tank. I took off the

Hose leading to the tank and put it into the bell of the ships horn. When I heard bubbling I stopped.

When I got to the USA, I drained the tank. Behind the fuel valve Amel mounted a screen. On Kimberlite you need a very thin wrench to remove the valve, it used to be called a tappet wrench.

My tank inspection ports were sealed with blue silicone.

Pieces of the blue silicone were blocking fuel flow,  I flushed the tank and ran it through a filter to get out the blue stuff. Permatex recommends Moto Seal for replacing the tank gaskets. It is used on motorcycle gear boxes and is meant to be easily disassembled to change the gears om Motos for different tracks.

 

This is very unique and if all else fails possibly this is the problem, however I think it is something much simpler.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Garver via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 2:48 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

 

The mechanic at the marina asked the same question about the auto-shutdown feature, so he's investigating that. I am about to pump some fuel from the bottom of the tank to check for water. I will also check for a vacuum on the fuel line, that's a good idea. 

 

Thanks!

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105


On October 24, 2019 at 12:58 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:

My first thought is also fuel supply.  One time we started our engine with the fuel shut off valve closed...she ran perfect then just quit.  I can see the engine pulling a vacuum on the fuel line stalling ...then as the vacuum leaks off being able to restart.  

 

Now my second thought is based on you saying it was a new engine.   Does the engine have any automatic shutdown features like the genset?  Recall the genset has a host of conditions that will cause the machine to shutdown.  Just owndering if the new engine presumably with a computer is doing something on it's own.

 

John

SV Annie SM37

Brunswick GA

 

On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 11:58 AM Mark Garver via Groups.Io <mgarver=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Mark,

 

Unfortunately not. But I think I can put a hose in the bottom of the tank and pump some out to see. At least that is the current plan as well as ensuring the filter is clean.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105


On October 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Mark,

 

You have a fuel problem. Do you have a filtration system that allows you to check for water?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

http://www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Garver via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 8:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running

 

It's been several months since my wife and I left our boat up in the Chesapeake and upon arrival today to have it hauled for a long over due cleaning. The Yanmar diesel fired right up, but then after a couple of minutes dies. Wait a couple of minutes and it fires right up again, runs for a couple of minutes and shuts off. It runs smoothly and fires up instantly so it doesn't sound like she's starving for fuel or air. The engine only has 30 hours and has be very reliable.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

S/V It's Good

SM #105

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Re: Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Bill, are you looking for the exhaust elbow coming off the turbo?



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 10/24/19 1:33 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3 - 110 Exhaust Elbow needed

If one of you has a Volvo D3-110 exhaust elbow, I could use it. 

As you probably know HDI Marine the manufacturer of Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbows is a Preferred Vendor of Yacht School

I just received an email from HDI asking if I could locate a D3-110 elbow for them to use to make a mold which will allow them to produce a Stainless Steel Investment Cast elbow for the D3-110. If you have an old one in any condition, it will work.

Let me know.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: seals orientation

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 
Edited

Hi Arnold,
I assume when you say the springs of the Amel supplied lip seals were magnetic you (or your mechanic) concluded they were not Stainless Steel and therefore you replaced them with O-rings. Actually, Stainless Steel is slightly magnetic and the very thin and lightweight Stainless Steel springs in lip seals will "stick" to a magnet - therefore the "test" your mechanic performed was not definitive.

You must rely on the manufacturers specification - there is a Code letter that specifies Stainless Steel Garter Springs. Carbon Steel is usually the default, so you must specifically order stainless steel garter spring. I am sure Amel supplied the correct lip seal and that it did, indeed, have a stainless steel spring. If I recall correctly, Amel ships the lip seals in the manufacturer's box - if so you could check the part number on the box, if you still have it, and see that it indeed is a Stainless Steel Garter Spring.

Cheers, Craig

Re: Latest RigRite.com Goiot Tradition Prices 2019!

Charles Bell
 

Hello Andrew,
 
Great to hear from you! I am going to re-post an update I sent to Bob earlier today. Maybe we should make a group for this.
 
I am having a machine shop use CNC to make a large, low cost per item batch of:
 
Axel bolts
Plastic Pins
Plastic knobs - Female M8
Plastic Knobs - Male M8
 
Here is what has happened so far:
 
I measured the parts and made drawings
Requested bids from several shops
Selected a shop to work with 
Today I am going down to the part and removing "sample parts" from my boat, 
Monday I will mail the samples to the machine shop.
The machine shop will confirm measures and comment
A round of samples will be made and shipped to me
I will test fit the parts on the boat
 
At this point I would be happy to post pictures/video of the parts. I would also be happy to share them around to get more feedback.

After we adjust or OK the parts they will make 100-200 of each part. Of course, we can increase the batch size if there is more interest.
 
The manufactured cost should be a few dollars each. I think we will land in the $3-7 dollar/each range.
 
My initial order was marine-grade aluminum with anodization (which is how my original parts *seem* to have been made. I am open to the idea of other material suggestions.

This is *not* a money-making endeavor. Just cost-sharing... and saving us all some money.
 
Anyone who would like to connect and help/influence/get some of these parts is welcome to post on this thread or private message me. I will share my phone number privately...

For the gaskets, I am shopping online and would appreciate being pointed to anyone else's sources & wisdom!!
 

Thank you,
 
Charles (& Hae)
SV Jupiter
@CruisingJupiter - Facebook
Mango Hull #29

Re: seals orientation

Arnold Mente
 

Hello, I'm Arnold with the SM 203 Zephyr,
In March 2019, in Nice, I changed the seals with Amel OEM. After 150 hours of engine and 1600 NM, I was able to detect a water ingress in the C-Drive. Of course I ordered the new seals from Maude. In the discussion with the mechanic, he drew my attention to the spring rings of Amel, as they were magnetic after the test. I am currently ashore and have exchanged the two rear spring washers for O-rings to counteract the corrosion on the seawater side. Whereby I would like to follow the installation position of Amel.
In the meantime I decided to use only 1.4571 spring washers.
After the discussion is already very lively, I would be glad about a feedback.
Sorry my english !!

Arnold
SY Zephyr SM 203
in Grado northern Adriatic

Am 26.10.2019 um 17:40 schrieb Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>:

I will also throw in my 2 cents. One of the major reasons we elected to buy an Amel, was that the boat concept, its design and systems had been tested for decades, in conditions that we expected to encounter.

It is my belief that any design can be improved on. However without sufficient of real world testing, the success of the improvement is only theoretical. Design changes sometimes have unintended consequences that only show up after time. In my opinion, if there is a proven design, on a critical system that has performed for decades if done correctly, should not be changed without sufficient real world testing.

Happy Sailing;

Mohammad & Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo

On Oct 26, 2019, at 8:01 AM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:

Many of you know my thoughts on this and I will not bore you with why I believe the Amel way is the best way.

I don't want to start an argument and I respect each owner's opinion....but, I cannot let this continue without saying something. There are plenty of newbies in this group who may not understand the correct procedure and the risks.

Ask yourself this question: 
Which is more important? Keeping oil in the C-Drive, or keeping water out? And if you had a chance to cut the chance of one of these risks occurring in half, which would you choose? 
Oil in? Or, water out?

The biggest reason, in fact the only reason, that I have witnessed for either oil leaking out or water leaking in, is the person doing the job actually did not do it correctly. There were important steps, either omitted or done wrong. There are correct seals and incorrect seals. There are Amel OEM wear bushings and knock-offs. 

My recommendation is to: Do the job as though Henri Amel is looking over your shoulder. I believe he is.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 9:32 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I'd be interested to hear how many hours you all have on your seals, too.

We did the two aft seals with the spring facing sea water and the forward two seals with spring facing the oil. So far 600 hours and zero drop in oil and zero water ingress. But I see the logic behind Jose's method with any oil leaking past the single forward seal lubricating the aft two seals.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com



Arnold Mente

Urbaniweg 12
7000 Eisenstadt 

Tel: +43 660 6699019

arnold.mente@...




--
SY Zephyr SM203

Re: seals orientation

Mohammad Shirloo
 

I will also throw in my 2 cents. One of the major reasons we elected to buy an Amel, was that the boat concept, its design and systems had been tested for decades, in conditions that we expected to encounter.

It is my belief that any design can be improved on. However without sufficient of real world testing, the success of the improvement is only theoretical. Design changes sometimes have unintended consequences that only show up after time. In my opinion, if there is a proven design, on a critical system that has performed for decades if done correctly, should not be changed without sufficient real world testing.

Happy Sailing;

Mohammad & Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo

On Oct 26, 2019, at 8:01 AM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:

Many of you know my thoughts on this and I will not bore you with why I believe the Amel way is the best way.

I don't want to start an argument and I respect each owner's opinion....but, I cannot let this continue without saying something. There are plenty of newbies in this group who may not understand the correct procedure and the risks.

Ask yourself this question: 
Which is more important? Keeping oil in the C-Drive, or keeping water out? And if you had a chance to cut the chance of one of these risks occurring in half, which would you choose? 
Oil in? Or, water out?

The biggest reason, in fact the only reason, that I have witnessed for either oil leaking out or water leaking in, is the person doing the job actually did not do it correctly. There were important steps, either omitted or done wrong. There are correct seals and incorrect seals. There are Amel OEM wear bushings and knock-offs. 

My recommendation is to: Do the job as though Henri Amel is looking over your shoulder. I believe he is.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 9:32 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I'd be interested to hear how many hours you all have on your seals, too.

We did the two aft seals with the spring facing sea water and the forward two seals with spring facing the oil. So far 600 hours and zero drop in oil and zero water ingress. But I see the logic behind Jose's method with any oil leaking past the single forward seal lubricating the aft two seals.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: seals orientation

Randall
 

Hello Bill,

I am new to my AMEL 54. I have seen a couple of videos on changing the seals out, but do you have the how to you like, and is it available. I'm splashing in one month.

I remember all the Nikimat how to info posted publicly. and the many other people who have posted on their own sites and on YouTube. A library of sorts would be nice.

It was sad to see Nikimat after Irma.
Randall
A-54 #56


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Sent: October 26, 2019 11:01 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] seals orientation
 
Many of you know my thoughts on this and I will not bore you with why I believe the Amel way is the best way.

I don't want to start an argument and I respect each owner's opinion....but, I cannot let this continue without saying something. There are plenty of newbies in this group who may not understand the correct procedure and the risks.

Ask yourself this question: 
Which is more important? Keeping oil in the C-Drive, or keeping water out? And if you had a chance to cut the chance of one of these risks occurring in half, which would you choose? 
Oil in? Or, water out?

The biggest reason, in fact the only reason, that I have witnessed for either oil leaking out or water leaking in, is the person doing the job actually did not do it correctly. There were important steps, either omitted or done wrong. There are correct seals and incorrect seals. There are Amel OEM wear bushings and knock-offs. 

My recommendation is to: Do the job as though Henri Amel is looking over your shoulder. I believe he is.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 9:32 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I'd be interested to hear how many hours you all have on your seals, too.

We did the two aft seals with the spring facing sea water and the forward two seals with spring facing the oil. So far 600 hours and zero drop in oil and zero water ingress. But I see the logic behind Jose's method with any oil leaking past the single forward seal lubricating the aft two seals.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: seals orientation

 

Many of you know my thoughts on this and I will not bore you with why I believe the Amel way is the best way.

I don't want to start an argument and I respect each owner's opinion....but, I cannot let this continue without saying something. There are plenty of newbies in this group who may not understand the correct procedure and the risks.

Ask yourself this question: 
Which is more important? Keeping oil in the C-Drive, or keeping water out? And if you had a chance to cut the chance of one of these risks occurring in half, which would you choose? 
Oil in? Or, water out?

The biggest reason, in fact the only reason, that I have witnessed for either oil leaking out or water leaking in, is the person doing the job actually did not do it correctly. There were important steps, either omitted or done wrong. There are correct seals and incorrect seals. There are Amel OEM wear bushings and knock-offs. 

My recommendation is to: Do the job as though Henri Amel is looking over your shoulder. I believe he is.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 9:32 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I'd be interested to hear how many hours you all have on your seals, too.

We did the two aft seals with the spring facing sea water and the forward two seals with spring facing the oil. So far 600 hours and zero drop in oil and zero water ingress. But I see the logic behind Jose's method with any oil leaking past the single forward seal lubricating the aft two seals.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com